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  1. #1
    htj
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    Problem assembling Fox RL after oil change

    Hi

    I have an Fox RL openbath fork which I've changed the oil. However when assembling the fork, the damper shaft/cartridge turns around making it impossible to get the damper-side bottom nut on.

    This was also a problem there when disassembling it, however it seem to have a bit more resistance then. I haven't had the dampler assembly taken apart, just wanted a quick oil change in the legs. Any ideas what could be wrong?

  2. #2
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    Put the damper on lockout. Compress the fork while tightening the nut. You might need a second set of hands for this or a ratcheting strap on the crown/arch.

  3. #3
    moaaar shimz
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    Make sure the crush washer isn't offering resistance against the threads. If it is, you'll need to use a new crush washer or enlarge a bit the internal diameter of it.

  4. #4
    htj
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    Hi again, thanks for the replies.

    I've tried the lockout and compression (and with rebound in both ends), but damper assembly is still rotating.

    I also tried without the crush washer, but it still nothing. The bottom nut does have some resistance in coming on/off (more than the other leg), but the damper assembly rotates without any resistence at all.

    Unfortunately I don't have a 26 mm key to take out the damper, so investigating it is tricky.

  5. #5
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    I held the shaft with a pair of needle nose pliers until I was able to get close enough to tighten down with out it.

  6. #6
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    An old trick is to Dremel a shallow groove into the end of the shaft, and then tighten the nut while holding the shaft still with a screwdriver.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by bad mechanic View Post
    An old trick is to Dremel a shallow groove into the end of the shaft, and then tighten the nut while holding the shaft still with a screwdriver.
    Good idea, the RL doesn't have the adjustment knob like the RLC, so you can cut into it with no harm done.

  8. #8
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    Pull down on the lowers while trying to tighten.....though you have to do this side before the spring side to get the extension. That should add some friction to the shaft.

  9. #9
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    Had the same problem with my TALAS last week. First off, Fox tech. support was worthless; I'd been better off talkin' with grandma. Here's what happened to me; when disassembling, the dropout, interfered with my hammer strike on the damper nut causing it to get a little wonkey and bunging up the threads a little. On reassembly, this mistake created enough friction to spin the damper. Fox acted like this was the first time they'ed heard of this issue and had no advise. I ended up grabbing the damper adj. rod with a pair of vise grips (mangling it) and got it all back together. Plan now is to order a new nut, and hope that I'm able to spin the old one off with out to much headache when it's service time again. Bottom line: Use a punch of some kind (large bolt, ect.) when separating the tubes for a clean strike.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by rtsideup View Post
    Had the same problem with my TALAS last week. First off, Fox tech. support was worthless; I'd been better off talkin' with grandma. Here's what happened to me; when disassembling, the dropout, interfered with my hammer strike on the damper nut causing it to get a little wonkey and bunging up the threads a little. On reassembly, this mistake created enough friction to spin the damper. Fox acted like this was the first time they'ed heard of this issue and had no advise. I ended up grabbing the damper adj. rod with a pair of vise grips (mangling it) and got it all back together. Plan now is to order a new nut, and hope that I'm able to spin the old one off with out to much headache when it's service time again. Bottom line: Use a punch of some kind (large bolt, ect.) when separating the tubes for a clean strike.
    Just screw the foot nut back on partically and hit that with your rubber mallet. If you want more clearance from the drop out, but a deep socket on the nut and hit the socket.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by bad mechanic View Post
    Just screw the foot nut back on partically and hit that with your rubber mallet. If you want more clearance from the drop out, but a deep socket on the nut and hit the socket.
    Yea, that's what I did; after I'd already messed up the foot nut. A deep socket is the perfect tool but, not having one handy, a big bolt worked fine. I have the QR15 dropouts and wonder if they make for less clearance around the nut?

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by bad mechanic View Post
    An old trick is to Dremel a shallow groove into the end of the shaft, and then tighten the nut while holding the shaft still with a screwdriver.
    i went down that road and it didnt end well for me. i know you said shallow but the shaft is soft enough that a shallow groove wont allow you to get a hold with a flat screwdriver. if you go deep the shaft is hollow and its game over. i wouldnt recommend it.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by honkonbobo View Post
    i went down that road and it didnt end well for me. i know you said shallow but the shaft is soft enough that a shallow groove wont allow you to get a hold with a flat screwdriver. if you go deep the shaft is hollow and its game over. i wouldnt recommend it.
    Sorry, but that sounds like user error and a bad screwdriver to me. I've personally done it on several forks and it works fine for holding the shaft while tightening the foot nut.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by rtsideup View Post
    I ended up grabbing the damper adj. rod with a pair of vise grips (mangling it) and got it all back together.
    Had to do same thing myself this spring. I feel less alone now. Am worried about next time I must service the fork though. Hard to understand why Fox would design the fork to be so hard to bolt back together.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk. Typos and terseness are to be expected.

  15. #15
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    The Torque setting on that bottom nut is only 6Nm or something. In my experience the shaft always turns at a certain point - pretty much when it's at torque. It only needs to be tight enough to deform the crush washer and form a seal.

    - Joel
    Cycling is Serious Business.

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