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Thread: Pike 2014

  1. #401
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    vadimn, could you tell temperature when this happened?
    Rockshox and fox are famous for using crappy rubber which fails in cold weather.

  2. #402
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    Quote Originally Posted by vadimn View Post
    My pike2014 is less than 6 month old and has around a 100 hours of use.
    Recently all drive (right) side stop responding to adjustment knobs, rebound, compression and also lock out, nothing not working any more.
    I take the fork to service center and what we found was impressed me...
    A Bladder is just blow-up, wow how it can heaped? and what about reliability of this shock? this issue not looking good IMHO.
    Attachment 851935
    RockShox said their new bladder design couldn't burst. Either it was overfilled from the start, or it ingested bath oil through the shaft seal. Once the damper is overfilled, it bursts on a hard compression. Happens to Fox Fit cartridges, too.

  3. #403
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    tene, its summer temperature, approx +25C or more...

  4. #404
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    Any o-ring supplier at any level uses nitrile rubber from various sources and will always exhibit a certain amount of variability in the field. You really can't expect the bladder or any o-ring/quad seal to be perfect all the time from every batch. There is a variety of outcomes when you expose seals from identical batches to different suspension fluids. No dynamic test can ensure a 100% success rate with these critical and highly engineered products. Failure happens. It's not anyone's fault, it's just life. What matters is how any company deals with the failure and how often it happens.

    Perfection is never attained but should always be the goal.

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  5. #405
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    Quote Originally Posted by regularbob View Post
    And did you machine/face the fork’s crown race seat? Haven't inspected mine yet so not sure how flush it comes.
    You're talking about facing the crown seat? That's pretty overkill! Most of the crowns are either cast (w/ a tooled mold, meaning it's accurate) or is CNC machined...so pretty accurate already. So no real need to face it.

    You'd face a BB and HT because during the heat treat, welding, or curing process, things may have gone out of whack. You then chase and face these surfaces to ensure alignment. But a crown is typically pressed in using a temp gradient...cold steerer and hot crown. There's a name for this process and I can't recall what it is off the top of my head. When the thing is already pretty accurate to start with and then you use a machine to ensure alignment, chances are it's good to go.

    I used a pvc and my carpet'd floor to set my crown race.

  6. #406
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    What kind of air pressure is everyone running in comparison to the chart on the Solo Air? I had mine set at about 50psi to get proper sag (at least what I thought was proper) where for my weight it recommends about 65-70 psi. Does the chart seem to be high for you all, or did I just set it up poorly?

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  7. #407
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    You're talking about facing the crown seat? That's pretty overkill! Most of the crowns are either cast (w/ a tooled mold, meaning it's accurate) or is CNC machined...so pretty accurate already. So no real need to face it.

    You'd face a BB and HT because during the heat treat, welding, or curing process, things may have gone out of whack. You then chase and face these surfaces to ensure alignment. But a crown is typically pressed in using a temp gradient...cold steerer and hot crown. There's a name for this process and I can't recall what it is off the top of my head. When the thing is already pretty accurate to start with and then you use a machine to ensure alignment, chances are it's good to go.

    I used a pvc and my carpet'd floor to set my crown race.
    Thanks, that was exactly the info I was hoping for. Now to figure out how much steerer tube to cut. I'm thinking that leaving enough length for a 2.5mm spacer, the stem and then another 2.5mm spacer is conservative enough to allow for some future customization to the cockpit. Or should I do 3x 2.5mm spacers, one underneath the stem and two and top?
    ***

  8. #408
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    I would say leave as much as you can live with simply for resale purposes. If you can leave the steerer around 8" long then you can sell the fork to almost anyone. The shorter you go from there you start to limit potential buyers.

  9. #409
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    Which star nut setter tool should I use for the Pike? The Park Tool TNS-1 for 1" and 1-1/8" steerers or the Park Tool TNS-15 for 1¼" and 1.5" steerers?

    I am thinking TNS-1 but just want to confirm since the whole tapered steerer is throwing me off.

  10. #410
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    Quote Originally Posted by regularbob View Post
    Which star nut setter tool should I use for the Pike? The Park Tool TNS-1 for 1" and 1-1/8" steerers or the Park Tool TNS-15 for 1¼" and 1.5" steerers?

    I am thinking TNS-1 but just want to confirm since the whole tapered steerer is throwing me off.
    It doesn't matter, since the top of tapered is 1-1/8".

  11. #411
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    TNS-1 is what you need, TNS-15 wont fit.

    Also, it is only about 30 sec of work to set the start nut so your local shop would probably do it for a couple bucks or some beer while you wait.

  12. #412
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    Quote Originally Posted by kan3 View Post
    I would say leave as much as you can live with simply for resale purposes.
    This^^^
    I am always selling and changing parts. I leave the steerer as long as possible without looking ridiculous. The longer the steerer tube the easier it will be to resale. I currently have my stem slammed with around 18mm of spacers ontop of stem.

  13. #413
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    Bought a 150mm Pike to replace my 2014 Talas 34, cannot wait to see if it lives up the the hype!

  14. #414
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    Rick Draper: what didn't you like about the Talas? I hear that the 2014 is much improved.

    Jon

  15. #415
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    Quote Originally Posted by jon123 View Post
    Rick Draper: what didn't you like about the Talas? I hear that the 2014 is much improved.

    Jon
    Don't get me wrong its a very nice fork but from everyone I have spoken to the Charge damper is a better damper than the CTD setup.

  16. #416
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    My new Pike is waiting for me when I get home. Think I will strip the lowers off it as I would a Fox to see what lube is inside before I use it.

    Does anyone have a starting point on a 150mm, 650b fork on a Bronson for a 185lb rider with regards tokens?

  17. #417
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    I have 160mm Pike 650B fork. I like having more token the better for plushness. Came with two tokens and installed both after running it without any. If I have third token I would install it too. I found that I have to run 10psi less when running two tokens vs. no token to obtain same 20-25% static sag. FYI, I weigh 165lbs with wet camebak and running 47psi with two tokens.
    sth

  18. #418
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    Pike 2014

    Quote Originally Posted by SingleTrackHound View Post
    I have 160mm Pike 650B fork. I like having more token the better for plushness. Came with two tokens and installed both after running it without any. If I have third token I would install it too. I found that I have to run 10psi less when running two tokens vs. no token to obtain same 20-25% static sag. FYI, I weigh 165lbs with wet camebak and running 47psi with two tokens.
    What's your LSC setting? Do you find it dives too easy on slow speed techy stuff?

  19. #419
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    Keep in mind most suggesting the tokens are on the 29'r version which has a larger air chamber to begin with (thus they come with one installed already). The way I was reading this thread was that I'd need tokens for sure... NOT! I found riding the way STH does (2 tokens, low air pressure) the fork rode like absolute garbage when pushed at full on DH speeds over chunk and jumps. What happens is you blow thru most of the travel too easily and then the fork ramps up hard at end of travel for a really harsh ride. I tried dialing in all the LSC which helped some but there still was fork dive unless you put in trail mode (which is where I had to leave it for any semblance of damping). If you go back about 5 pages or so, another DH'r had the same experience. For me I'm way better off with more air pressure and no tokens which provides a good linear rate and support over chunk at high speeds. Small bump sensitivity goes down some but I'm good with that!
    So Rick... I would try 75 psi with no tokens and the LSC in the middle at 6 clicks = money.

    Have FUN!

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  20. #420
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    Kragu, I run three to four clicks in from full open on LSC.

    My experience is that fork felt too stiff and could not use full travel without token when 25% sag was set @55psi. With tokens fork became plusher and used more travel. I have not ran my Pike at pure DH trails but rode at TWE trail in Moab and Little Creek trail in Hurricane with a lots of drops and super steep rollers.
    sth

  21. #421
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    @rickdraper, I'm in the same boat as you, although I'm around 170lbs geared up. I just put on my Pike last night, on my Bronson and took it out for a set up ride this morning before work. Initial thoughts are that the overall ride was great. A lot smoother than the fox but I do think the action is too linear for me. Tonight I'm going to add in 1 token and see how that feels. Unfortunately, won't know til I can get back on the trail. Maybe Friday or Sat.

    I'll let you know how the 1 token feels for me. Currently I'm running about 70psi for around 28% sag.

  22. #422
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    I agree with Gman. I think tokens are necessary for big fellas but for going full on the Pike is much more composed with no tokens. Also running 6 clicks of lsc at 55psi. I am 167lbs. For slower speed roots,drops and rollers the fork is a little more compliant with the tokens with a little lower pressure but when the speed picks up things change quickly and I found it was much more harsh, with the tokens, due to blowing through the midstroke and using to much of the travel. Please keep in mind, everyone rides differently and has different preferences for there suspension, also bike setup has a lot to do with it ie head angle, rear sag and cockpit setup. Happy riding

  23. #423
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    I've got the 29er 140mm version. For this one, RockShox actually recommends two tokens. I experimented with three and one for a while, but two has been the money spot for me on progressivity vs linear.
    It's really easy to add or subtract one. It's also very noticeable right away when you switch it up. And, yes, the fewer the tokens, the more PSI you'll need.

  24. #424
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    I agree with what others are saying here. I have the 650b 160 solo air and found with two tokens and the lower pressure the fork dove through most of its travel too easily on techy rock step downs and slower drops. O-ring was always maxed out right away. With no tokens and a bit more pressure it does lose a slight bit of compliance over the small chatter but is much more composed overall through the full length of travel. It takes a proper big hit to use that last fourth or fifth of travel but still feels very smooth and controlled on the trail. I dig it. I'm at 70psi for between 25% - 28% sag weighing ride ready at 175lbs.

  25. #425
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    hi community,
    is anybody using a 2014 PIKE DPA?
    any issues reported or heard so far with travel reducer or fork behaviour differences to solo air version ?

  26. #426
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    I just received my 140mm solo air for my tallboy LTC. The online seller originally shipped me a 26inch 150mm by mistake. They did rectify by shipping the replacement via two day air. Looking forward to getting it set up this weekend. Just need to find some dry trails as the snow melt in the Northeast is wreaking havoc on the trails.

  27. #427
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    Mikes Pike

    freshh on, now @75psi, 1 token, 5clics of LSC, 8ish of rebound
    had 3runs now, loove the small bump performance. Total fascination

    <iframe src="//player.vimeo.com/video/82499259" width="500" height="281" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen allowfullscreen></iframe> <p><a href="http://vimeo.com/82499259">PIKE</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user23672314">ahim regaj</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>

  28. #428
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    how much do you weigh, m789?

  29. #429
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    roundish 190 lbs all geared up

  30. #430
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    Is that a 29'r Enduro m789? Keep in mind peeps the 29'r version has more volume and needs the token - there needs to be two threads for the Pike (26/650b and 29'r)!

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  31. #431
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    I got my Pike but sadly they have a 2cm scratch on the lowers so I am returning them for a exchange. Gutted as when i whipped them out of the packaging and gave them a quick push down they felt very smooth.

  32. #432
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    It's Stumpjumper 29.
    Mine came with 1 preinstalled (i believe all 29ners come like that- at least the aftermarket ones), but i will add another and lower the psi a bit...

  33. #433
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    damn, like already getting the ice cream and bang someone snatches it
    ...at least it's past/too early for "bike season" so time without won't last so loong

  34. #434
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    I read this whole thread yesterday and couldn't find the answer to the question below, my apologies if it's listed elsewhere or I just missed it:

    What are the differences between an OEM pike internals and an aftermarket version?

    I'm in the market for a new bike and the pike would be the very first upgrade I'd make, my only concern is what would I be missing out on by buying a 'take off' or whatever.

    More specifically, I THINK it's the RTC3 damper but what else is like fox where the 'Evolution' models have less adjustments / lower build quality.

    TIA

  35. #435
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    As far as anyone's aware, all Pike's are the same internally, regardless of being OEM or aftermarket. They certainly don't remove the RCT3 damper at all. The only thing you miss out on would be the tokens on an OEM model.
    I don't crash, I just have slightly uncontrolled dismounts!

  36. #436
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    Pike 2014

    Quote Originally Posted by Kiwiplague View Post
    As far as anyone's aware, all Pike's are the same internally, regardless of being OEM or aftermarket. They certainly don't remove the RCT3 damper at all. The only thing you miss out on would be the tokens on an OEM model.
    Even that - my friend bought a Bronson with a Pike and it came with replacement seals and two tokens.

  37. #437
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    Kiwi, my OEM came with a token installed, and an extra token in the bag with the manual.
    Bend, Oregon

  38. #438
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    Interesting, over heard a shop monkey the other day saying the damper was different in the OEM vs. the aftermarket.

    Shitty if he was just trying to sell a 'new' fork.

    Next time I'll have to call them out on that.

  39. #439
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    Quote Originally Posted by probiscus View Post
    Interesting, over heard a shop monkey the other day saying the damper was different in the OEM vs. the aftermarket.

    Shitty if he was just trying to sell a 'new' fork.

    Next time I'll have to call them out on that.
    There are differences. I just rode with my friend who has a new Stumpjumper EVO and his damper control did not have the three distinct clicks that the aftermarket forks come with. His damper had about 10 clicks that let you dial ïn between" settings. OEMs always seem to get some other spec.

  40. #440
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    Quote Originally Posted by SFBMRC View Post
    There are differences. I just rode with my friend who has a new Stumpjumper EVO and his damper control did not have the three distinct clicks that the aftermarket forks come with. His damper had about 10 clicks that let you dial ïn between" settings. OEMs always seem to get some other spec.
    http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/si...e_manual_0.pdf

    There's the RCT3 and RC models. The RC is OEM only. As far as I can tell, the only difference is it lacks the three position control. It still has the low speed compression adjustment. I don't use the three position switch at all on my RCT3. I ride it wide open all the time with some LSC as needed.

  41. #441
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    Page 20+ of this PDF - referring to servicing of the charger damper
    http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/si...e_manual_0.pdf

    Shows 2 different 'damper' configurations; "RCT3" and "RC only"

    Page 36 would appear to show a LSC adjustment knob unique to the RCT3 iteration.

    Sigh.

    [e] Hillharman beat me to the punch

  42. #442
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    Quote Originally Posted by probiscus View Post
    Page 20+ of this PDF - referring to servicing of the charger damper
    http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/si...e_manual_0.pdf

    Shows 2 different 'damper' configurations; "RCT3" and "RC only"

    Page 36 would appear to show a LSC adjustment knob unique to the RCT3 iteration.

    Sigh.

    [e] Hillharman beat me to the punch
    I think they both have LSC. It's the three position damping adjust that is gone from the RC. The exploded views seem to confirm this.

    Edit: The knobs are misleading. The schematic shows they both have the same low speed compression needle, but on the RC, it's controlled by a large knob.

  43. #443
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    It's so classy how rockshox includes a seal kit with their products!

  44. #444
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    Quote Originally Posted by half_man_half_scab View Post
    It's so classy how rockshox includes a seal kit with their products!
    And a pump.

  45. #445
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    Got a 160 solo air for my Bronson. Running one token and 70psi with 3 clicks of LSC. About 170lbs geared to ride and just over 20% sag.

  46. #446
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    Quote Originally Posted by hillharman View Post
    http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/si...e_manual_0.pdf

    There's the RCT3 and RC models. The RC is OEM only.
    Whoops, I forgot about the RC models. That's what happens when you stay up waaaay to late to think straight and try to post!
    I don't crash, I just have slightly uncontrolled dismounts!

  47. #447
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    Any user of a DPA model can report how it behaves so far?

  48. #448
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    Quote Originally Posted by hillharman View Post
    I think they both have LSC. It's the three position damping adjust that is gone from the RC. The exploded views seem to confirm this.

    Edit: The knobs are misleading. The schematic shows they both have the same low speed compression needle, but on the RC, it's controlled by a large knob.
    I can confirm this. My bike came with the RC model. The big nob on the RC model controls the LSC and as stated has about 10 clicks of adjustment. The RC lacks the 3 position control, but I wouldn't use that anyway more than likely..

    -Brett
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  49. #449
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    Mine came with some tokens, a pump and seals.

    Unfortunately there a problem with mine, just wondering if it's major?. There's about 5mm of vertical play with the fork fully extended, so when stationary and you pull up on the bars you can feel it clunking up and down slightly, also slightly when descending. If I turn the rebound about 17 clicks this goes away. Fork seems to work great, but I know this isn't right either :-(

  50. #450
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    I get a harsher topout as well, but I don't feel it on the descents. Only in the parking lot and on climbs where I'm really on and off the bars. It was this way out of the box.

  51. #451
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    The top out is part of the design. If you check back through the thrad you'll find it mentioned a few times. My 160 does this as well. It's part of the + - air chambers equalizing or whatever to that effect.

  52. #452
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    Many thanks for the help, I kept looking for 'play' I can see the comments around top out, make sense now.

  53. #453
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    Is everyone replacing their crush washers after they remove their lowers? The manual doesn't say which size washer, but can anyone confirm what size they are?

    Also, I run the my fork at about 25 psi, no tokens at about 23-25% sag in the attack position. I weigh about 130 lbs. Sounds freakishly low, but I haven't bottomed out harshly yet. I think my shock pump gauge is just off.

    In response to someones comment regarding the action in pedal mode, my fork almost feels locked out in this position, so I only use this to climb. Not sure if theres an issue with it.

  54. #454
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    Anyone gone into the shim stack yet? If yes, any specific insight(s), documentation on how to get there, etc? TIA

  55. #455
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    After two months the RCT3 function of my Pike 27.5/150mm isn't doing its job properly. The fork is almost full open all the time. My guess is, that there is too little oil in the damper, but how do I service this closed damper unit?

    Edit: I'll try to bleed the bladder system using some of the steps in this guide: http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/si...e_manual_0.pdf

  56. #456
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    Manuals here, need tools, oil, and more skills than me http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/si...e_manual_0.pdf

    Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

  57. #457
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    url looked suspect http://www.sram.com/rockshox/products/pike-rct3#service

    Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

  58. #458
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    Quote Originally Posted by timmyt View Post
    Manuals here, need tools, oil, and more skills than me http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/si...e_manual_0.pdf

    Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
    Yeah, me too, unfortunately. I'd really like to do it myself.
    Although I like my LBS, I don't think they've serviced a Pike yet... don't really want mine to be their first. And, don't know if I can trust that they'd follow all the steps in the 42 page service manual...

  59. #459
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikodipo View Post
    Is everyone replacing their crush washers after they remove their lowers? The manual doesn't say which size washer, but can anyone confirm what size they are?
    You are supposed to replace the crush washers on both sides when you remove and reinstall the lowers. I've talked to many that just reuse them without any incident. I just went ahead and spent $20 on a 50 pack of washers and retainers. Figured better safe than sorry. I believe the spare parts kit that comes with the (aftermarket) fork includes a few washers. They are the 8mm type. Part # 11.4015.259.000.

  60. #460
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    Oh hey...
    If someone already pointed this out, my bad. But, if you take a look at pages 14 - 18 in the service manual, you can see how to reduce the travel by slipping on spacers.

  61. #461
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    Oh hey...
    If someone already pointed this out, my bad. But, if you take a look at pages 14 - 18 in the service manual, you can see how to reduce the travel by slipping on spacers.
    No it does not as you cannot lower it with spacers.

  62. #462
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Draper View Post
    No it does not as you cannot lower it with spacers.
    Okay...

    The reason I'm saying the pics suggest that it might be doable is this pic of the SA air piston...and how the dual position side's topout bumper is arranged. But I don't know if that is one solid piece to the SA Seal Head, or if that thing in the red box that looks like a spacer is a spacer:

    Name:  Pike SA Schema.jpg
Views: 3332
Size:  17.3 KB

    BUT, I haven't been in one yet...just waiting for RS to release their Charger cart bleed nipple. Oh, btw, ETA on those is ~ mid Feb.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  63. #463
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    Quote Originally Posted by SFBMRC View Post
    You are supposed to replace the crush washers on both sides when you remove and reinstall the lowers. I've talked to many that just reuse them without any incident. I just went ahead and spent $20 on a 50 pack of washers and retainers. Figured better safe than sorry. I believe the spare parts kit that comes with the (aftermarket) fork includes a few washers. They are the 8mm type. Part # 11.4015.259.000.
    Awesome! Thanks for clarifying.

  64. #464
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    Okay...

    The reason I'm saying the pics suggest that it might be doable is this pic of the SA air piston...and how the dual position side's topout bumper is arranged. But I don't know if that is one solid piece to the SA Seal Head, or if that thing in the red box that looks like a spacer is a spacer:

    Name:  Pike SA Schema.jpg
Views: 3332
Size:  17.3 KB

    BUT, I haven't been in one yet...just waiting for RS to release their Charger cart bleed nipple. Oh, btw, ETA on those is ~ mid Feb.
    Here is a link to a picture of why you cannot lover it with spacers:
    http://cdn.mos.bikeradar.com/images/...kq7-670-80.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Pike 2014-1334895084698-1uj5zjhxyekq7-670-80.jpg  


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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    Okay...

    The reason I'm saying the pics suggest that it might be doable is this pic of the SA air piston...and how the dual position side's topout bumper is arranged. But I don't know if that is one solid piece to the SA Seal Head, or if that thing in the red box that looks like a spacer is a spacer:

    Name:  Pike SA Schema.jpg
Views: 3332
Size:  17.3 KB

    BUT, I haven't been in one yet...just waiting for RS to release their Charger cart bleed nipple. Oh, btw, ETA on those is ~ mid Feb.
    So... the retainer clip keeps the piston and seal head from coming out of the upper tube assembly, but does that mean i can push the seal head into the shaft with the ring in place? Or does it stay put? Also, do the backup ring and wave spring float around in the shaft when the piston is cycling?

    Sorry for the ignorance, but i have yet to take my fork apart to convert it to 150mm.

  66. #466
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    Okay...

    The reason I'm saying the pics suggest that it might be doable is this pic of the SA air piston...and how the dual position side's topout bumper is arranged. But I don't know if that is one solid piece to the SA Seal Head, or if that thing in the red box that looks like a spacer is a spacer:

    Name:  Pike SA Schema.jpg
Views: 3332
Size:  17.3 KB

    BUT, I haven't been in one yet...just waiting for RS to release their Charger cart bleed nipple. Oh, btw, ETA on those is ~ mid Feb.
    What you circled is the sealhead, not a spacer. You CAN'T lower a Pike with spacers.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mikodipo View Post
    So... the retainer clip keeps the piston and seal head from coming out of the upper tube assembly, but does that mean i can push the seal head into the shaft with the ring in place? Or does it stay put? Also, do the backup ring and wave spring float around in the shaft when the piston is cycling?

    Sorry for the ignorance, but i have yet to take my fork apart to convert it to 150mm.
    The SA seal head and retaining ring will remain static in the bottom of the stanchion. The topout bumper will typically be held to the bottom of the piston head. I have NO idea why that wave spring is in there, or the purpose of the backup ring.

    From past experience w/ Fox Floats, that thing that resembles the spacer...in the red box...is where you'd slip in spacers to reduce travel (in a Fox). And, since the SA seal head can be slipped off the piston rod to replace the seal/o-ring inside that seal head (see the pics in the service manual...I think my link is broken, but others have posted working ones), I don't see what else that thing could be except a spacer. AND, from the pics in the service manual, it seems, at leas in the dual position air sa seal head, that part isn't an attached part (to the seal head).

    Oh well, more to come, once I get the bleed nipple and able to fully break down the fork.

    BTW, RS customer service won't even answer if you ask if the compression shim stack can be disassembled.

  68. #468
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Draper View Post
    Here is a link to a picture of why you cannot lover it with spacers:
    http://cdn.mos.bikeradar.com/images/...kq7-670-80.jpg
    Okay, gotcha...equalizes + air chamber and - chamber. I'm guessing that's where the Pike is so much more smoother than the Fox...

  69. #469
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    1) Pike can only be lowered with the right air shaft length. Look up my posts on cutting down an air shaft. I did my own homework and posted it for the masses. As I stated earlier either in this post or another... its easier to cut down an air shaft or buy the right one than to fiddle around making one to the right size and spec.

    2) Charger bleed adapters are available from SRAM. I got one two weeks ago. No problem.

  70. #470
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    Quote Originally Posted by SFBMRC View Post
    2) Charger bleed adapters are available from SRAM. I got one two weeks ago. No problem.
    Thanks for this heads up!

  71. #471
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    Hi Guys - family just got me a enduro 29er for Christmas, came with the Pike solo air. Based on this thread and flipping thru manual looks like our adjustments are:

    1) air pressure (soft or firm)
    2) low speed adjuster knob (?)...not sure what it's for
    3) rebound adjuster on bottom fork

    I weigh about 225lbs with gear and have 105psi in fork. How many clicks are you doing for items 2 and 3 above?

  72. #472
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    Does charger bleed adapter differ from reverb's or totem speed lube?

  73. #473
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    Quote Originally Posted by Esben View Post
    After two months the RCT3 function of my Pike 27.5/150mm isn't doing its job properly. The fork is almost full open all the time. My guess is, that there is too little oil in the damper, but how do I service this closed damper unit?

    Edit: I'll try to bleed the bladder system using some of the steps in this guide: http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/si...e_manual_0.pdf
    I've just done the bleeding without the bleeding tool. I haven't received it yet so I had to try without and it is possible with a little patience. With a syringe it is possible to put a little amount of 3wt suspension oil in the hole, where the bleed tool are supposed to be thread in. When the fork is compressed the air bobbles escapes the bladder and the oil are off cause sucked down into the damper afterwards. The tricky thing is to have enough oil so no air is sucked in.
    It is off cause not as good as having the right tool, but the damping is much better now and the lock out is working again.

  74. #474
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tuff Wheels View Post
    Hi Guys - family just got me a enduro 29er for Christmas, came with the Pike solo air. Based on this thread and flipping thru manual looks like our adjustments are:

    1) air pressure (soft or firm)
    2) low speed adjuster knob (?)...not sure what it's for
    3) rebound adjuster on bottom fork

    I weigh about 225lbs with gear and have 105psi in fork. How many clicks are you doing for items 2 and 3 above?
    Nice present!
    1. The air pressure you set by looking at sag. It is marked on the stanchions. You want between 25-30% sag. This adjustment is not for a softer or firmer ride. Use the chart on the fork leg for air pressure and go from there.
    2.low speed adjustment will make it a softer or harsher ride. Set it to a setting the feels best to you over the terrain you will ride.
    3. rebound, again set it to how you like it. Fast enough where it will recover from compressing, but not too fast where it is a pogo stick.

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  75. #475
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tuff Wheels View Post
    Hi Guys - family just got me a enduro 29er for Christmas, came with the Pike solo air. Based on this thread and flipping thru manual looks like our adjustments are:

    1) air pressure (soft or firm)
    2) low speed adjuster knob (?)...not sure what it's for
    3) rebound adjuster on bottom fork

    I weigh about 225lbs with gear and have 105psi in fork. How many clicks are you doing for items 2 and 3 above?
    I find if I'm really pushing it downhill at the ski resort, I need to use a good amount of low-speed compression damping to keep the fork from diving and so it doesn't blow through travel on big jumps, so it's ready/able to absorb the next hit, rather than being deep in the travel. So there I usually run it around 1/2 closed. On climbs I'll usually leave it wide open for max absorption of terrain (helps keep the front end planted on the climb) and in between I'll usually run a few clicks.

    Rebound is up to you, it can run a decent amount without packing up due to the 'rapid recovery' shimmed rebound setup, but too much can still feel "dead", you probably need at least 7-8 clicks at that weight, and then go up from there, I'd estimate 10-12.

    As far as tokens, run more for a more "progressive" feel that will mean lower pressure, more sag, fork being deeper into the travel. Run less to make it more linear, which means more pressure, fork rides higher, less reactive to the small bumps.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  76. #476
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    Pike 2014

    Quote Originally Posted by tene View Post
    Does charger bleed adapter differ from reverb's or totem speed lube?
    The bleed kit is the same as the totem but you need the Charger adapter.

    This is what SRAM sent me a few weeks ago. The adapter is in the top left. It came with its own bag.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  77. #477
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    Quote Originally Posted by SFBMRC View Post
    You are supposed to replace the crush washers on both sides when you remove and reinstall the lowers. I've talked to many that just reuse them without any incident. I just went ahead and spent $20 on a 50 pack of washers and retainers. Figured better safe than sorry. I believe the spare parts kit that comes with the (aftermarket) fork includes a few washers. They are the 8mm type. Part # 11.4015.259.000.
    I really need to stop skimming through these posts. Just saw your mention of crush washers in the spare parts kit included in aftermarket forks. Checked mine and you're correct; theres spare washers in there.

  78. #478
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    So how are some of you guys feeling overall about the quality control/reliabilty on the pike???

    This was going to be my go to fork (150mm 26") for my trail bike next season, but after a lot of reading today...now I'm skeered. It seems most of the barely used one's for sale on pinkbike it's obvious the seller had issues with the cartridge as they mention as much & you can tell they opened it up from the pics. Same goes for the used one's on ebay & one seller is even selling it with the bleed adapter. Couple that with 3 or so blown bladders I've come across and my size of 220#'s+ and well not very confidence inspiring.

    Would happily space down a 160 vanilla or lyric but it seems the vanilla is only 180mm anymore and likewise with the 170 lyric. I know I added absolutely nothing to the thread but looking for input none the less.

  79. #479
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    Well, I haven't seen many issues to be honest and I wouldn't hesitate to get one.

    I got to do a full tear down and rebuild of a Charger damper in a SRAM Tuner seminar and I felt the damper was pretty well built and the bladder was pretty thick compared to the Fox bladder (if that helps).

  80. #480
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    Quote Originally Posted by WHALENARD View Post
    So how are some of you guys feeling overall about the quality control/reliabilty on the pike???.
    If you take the time to read the thread you will find all people contributing to it are very happy with the PIKE, including me. Loads of techie info as well.

    The performance is just amazing and well, I personally have't had any issues with them and the more I ride them, the more I love them. Can't wait for the BOXXERS to have the charger damper system so I can upgrade the fork on my DH rig too.

    You can certainly expect issues with suspension specially if is so new. There is also a high demand for them and SRAM trying to keep up with it so finding a handful of them on the internet with issues wouldn't worry me at all. Plus if yo buy new, you will have the warranty.

    This to me (IMO) is hands down the best piece of suspension I've ever tried.

  81. #481
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    This sounds like its a one off but my pike has lost both rebound and compression damping and the 3 pos. dial does nothing either. Its going to get serviced this Friday so we'll see what comes of it.

    Interestingly the same thing happened to my previous fox float, it lost all rebound damping and was replaced under warranty.

    Also, when I first got the fork I had to pull the piston out to release negative pressure to obtain the extra 15mm to get full travel.

    Edit: But before it started playing up it was an awesome fork, silky smooth and tracked well through big hits and fast chunder.

  82. #482
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    That is most likely a tear/puncture/hole in the bladder.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  83. #483
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    Quote Originally Posted by iguanabartola View Post
    If you take the time to read the thread you will find all people contributing to it are very happy with the PIKE, including me. Loads of techie info as well.

    The performance is just amazing and well, I personally have't had any issues with them and the more I ride them, the more I love them. Can't wait for the BOXXERS to have the charger damper system so I can upgrade the fork on my DH rig too.

    You can certainly expect issues with suspension specially if is so new. There is also a high demand for them and SRAM trying to keep up with it so finding a handful of them on the internet with issues wouldn't worry me at all. Plus if yo buy new, you will have the warranty.

    This to me (IMO) is hands down the best piece of suspension I've ever tried.
    I did "take the time to read the thread"...hence my concern.

  84. #484
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    That is most likely a tear/puncture/hole in the bladder.
    That is a valid point. I have read of 3 others rupturing their bladder on the interwebs though. Who knows...... maybe they are all the same guy or end user inflicted.

  85. #485
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    I have a 27.5 150 Pike. Does anyone know if it can take a 26 upper stanchion? I would want to do this to reduce the offset to 40mm.

  86. #486
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    Quote Originally Posted by hillharman View Post
    http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/si...e_manual_0.pdf

    There's the RCT3 and RC models. The RC is OEM only. As far as I can tell, the only difference is it lacks the three position control. It still has the low speed compression adjustment. I don't use the three position switch at all on my RCT3. I ride it wide open all the time with some LSC as needed.
    Yep, as far as the RS website looks. The RC as OEM still sounds pretty cool - would be a good option for "set it and forget it types" at least. I'd not pass one up if it came with a smoking enough price.

    I ride the same way. Have monkeyed about with the settings, but after having found the sweet spot for my riding in general in the fully open setting, it just stays that way. I do tweek the LSC knob now and again, but that's it.


    At this point, I only use the other settings if hitting a long enough stretch of gravel or pavement.
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  87. #487
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    ...just waiting for RS to release their Charger cart bleed nipple. Oh, btw, ETA on those is ~ mid Feb.
    This. I tore into mine a few months ago, not realizing it was a totally different threading. Did the best I could with a spare Avid bleed kit, and it's been working fine since, but really want to pick one of those things up.

    Also thinking to grab a spare air shaft kit to play with. Thinking to cut it down and re-thread to create a 140mm 26" fork. Hopefully should only entail a good clean cut, and making sure I've got the right tap on hand.
    Florence Nightingale's Stormtrooper

  88. #488
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    Quote Originally Posted by scrublover View Post
    This. I tore into mine a few months ago, not realizing it was a totally different threading. Did the best I could with a spare Avid bleed kit, and it's been working fine since, but really want to pick one of those things up.

    Also thinking to grab a spare air shaft kit to play with. Thinking to cut it down and re-thread to create a 140mm 26" fork. Hopefully should only entail a good clean cut, and making sure I've got the right tap on hand.
    Hey scrublover,
    can you help me understand some of the problems you guys are having. So did your cartridge lose oil? Was there air in it from the factory or just low fluid from the factory?

  89. #489
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    Quote Originally Posted by WHALENARD View Post
    Hey scrublover,
    can you help me understand some of the problems you guys are having. So did your cartridge lose oil? Was there air in it from the factory or just low fluid from the factory?
    No problem at all, just wanted to do a bleed, mess about with the fork a bit. I'd ridden on it a good bit, figured it would be good to do an oil change and see how things looked inside. I'd say that is the same for a lot of us in this thread.

    There really aren't many in this thread who've had any problems, and most have been easy fixes with tuning. The ones that haven't been easy tuning fixes appear to have been handled fairly quickly by SRAM/RS.
    Florence Nightingale's Stormtrooper

  90. #490
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    650b pike RCT3 150mm.
    1860g without a skewer.
    1930 with the skewer.

    Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk

  91. #491
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    The best 160 mm or 170 mm option is a Lyric with an Avalanche cartridge kit installed. Coil or solo air. The Lyric apparently will fit 27.5. The Pike is an upgraded Lyric that fits 27.5 and 29. Phone Ava they are a wealth of knowledge and know there stuff.

  92. #492
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    I just got my pike, in initial check-out I found the rebound knob was stuck(wouldn't move in either direction). I went through the Rockshox doc and a bunch of threads but didn't see anything like what I was experiencing. I loosened the set screw on the rebound knob about .25 turn, and now the know adjusts through 20 clicks as expected. The set screw must have just been a little tight fro the factory. Posting here in case anyone else ends up in the same boat.

  93. #493
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    Just curious if anyone else has had a hard time with removing and reinstalling the air spring top cap and with stripping the top cap?

    I recently changed the air shaft on my 27.5 Pike to lower the travel to 140mm and I found that I stripped the top cap a little when I was tightening it to the specified 28 Nm. It's not severely stripped, as in I should still be able to remove it. But it will definitely need replacing the next time I remove it.

    I was using a standard 24mm socket wrench and the biggest problem is that a standard socket has 2 or so mm of rounded edge before the actual traction, so the socket doesn't sit completely flush with the top cap when it's near it's tightness. I think the socket would be more effective if I could machine down 2-3mm of the face of the socket.*

    So the question is what are you guys using? Is there some specific type of socket that I should be using? Or has anyone machined the face of a standard 24mm socket? And presumably, I would have the same problem with the 30mm on the charger damper side?

  94. #494
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    ^^^any hardware shop should be able to grind down the rounded bit of the socket to get it to seat flush. same deal with my Lyrik and Revelation, once you have a flush socket it's a non-issue. dont have a Pike yet so can't comment on the damper side but sounds like it'd be the same based on your post.

  95. #495
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    Quote Originally Posted by regularbob View Post
    Just curious if anyone else has had a hard time with removing and reinstalling the air spring top cap and with stripping the top cap?
    I use a ground down socket, works great.

  96. #496
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    I just bought a 24mm wrench. Takes a little longer to remove and install the top cap, but it doesn't strip the top cap.. For the larger stuff (25mm and greater), I use an adjustable wrench.

  97. #497
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    I took a socket and ground it down on the cement in my driveway by hand. Works great and only took me a few minutes.

  98. #498
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    Quote Originally Posted by regularbob View Post
    I was using a standard 24mm socket wrench and the biggest problem is that a standard socket has 2 or so mm of rounded edge before the actual traction, so the socket doesn't sit completely flush with the top cap when it's near it's tightness. I think the socket would be more effective if I could machine down 2-3mm of the face of the socket.*

    So the question is what are you guys using? Is there some specific type of socket that I should be using? Or has anyone machined the face of a standard 24mm socket? And presumably, I would have the same problem with the 30mm on the charger damper side?
    Get hold of a 24mm six sided socket and grind that down, thats the best one to use.

  99. #499
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    These work great!

    Lunar Bike Tools
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Pike 2014-fork-wrench-640.jpg  

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    Steve
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  100. #500
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nels View Post
    These work great!

    Lunar Bike Tools
    +1 I have a set...concur...cheap and work great.

    Cheers,
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