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Thread: Pike 2014

  1. #1101
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    I bought mine online so I presume I will have to send it back (yeah I know, should've bought it locally and so on). I was hoping to just live with the noise for now and contact the dealer for warranty at the end of the season, but only if it's not going to kill me obviously.

    Good call on isolating it further, I'll try that. It's not likely to be caused by anything else then?

  2. #1102
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    I'm about 7hrs on my Pile 160 RCT3s bought earlier this year and noticed they were feeling a little harsh on last ride so checked air pressure, which a little low and the fork wasn't fully extending last 5mm still in the fork leg, let the air out pulled up to full extention in case negative chamber needed to equalise and now it wont hold air pressure :?... Love the fork when it working but not that impressed at its reliablilty (my 2 previous RS air forks lyric/boxer wc were great). Hopeing its an easy fix/seal swap as I don't want the down time to send it back for warranty.

  3. #1103
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    Is there a difference in working/tenderness/ fluency between solo and dual version?

  4. #1104
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    Quote Originally Posted by dodekns View Post
    Is there a difference in working/tenderness/ fluency between solo and dual version?
    Thinking the same thing myself. I'm in the market for a new pike, dual position would be nice, but not a necessity. I know fox forks were not as compliant with the tallus cartridge, so pike the same?

  5. #1105
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    I am not the same calibre of rider as say Steve Smith but my dual position air has been very reliable and is very supple. Have ridden a solo air but a very short ride. Again, I am not a professional rider but could not tell the difference. In the lower position, it absorbes bumps well. When I have the fork in this position it is for climbing and thus at slow speed, so difficult to tell if there is a lot of difference in suppleness, rebound, etc. My advice would be that if you think the dual position would be an asset to your riding and you will use the feature regularly, go for it.

  6. #1106
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    thanks, that helps. I'd like a 650b model for, temporarily, 26" wheels, might need the dual for climbing until the larger wheels.

  7. #1107
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    All,
    RC vs. RCT in Dual Air Model - I'm fairly certain I can get a RC 160mm Dual 26".
    From what I understand I only loose the simple 3 settings dial vs. the loss of any other advantages, correct? Secondly does the low compression adjust work throughout the range on the RC vs. just in open mode like on the RCT?

    posting in RC vs. RCT too.

  8. #1108
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    Quote Originally Posted by riding4fun View Post
    All,
    From what I understand I only loose the simple 3 settings dial vs. the loss of any other advantages, correct? Secondly does the low compression adjust work throughout the range on the RC vs. just in open mode like on the RCT?

    posting in RC vs. RCT too.
    Yes and yes. Both is correct.

    The RC feels like the old Motion Control knob (if you ever used such a fork) except that the "lockout" is not so strong. You have like ~12 clicks. After 5 clicks I feel (and hear in the damper) difference in riding descents. 10-12 clicks is very strong compression but not near any lockout mode. The fork moves but not so easily, especially when pedaling seated.

    My friends who ride RCT3 never use anything other than Open mode with fixed low speed compression (when I say fixed, I mean they set it up and never look back). Their honest opinion is that they would rather have RC damper than RCT3. Cheaper and have all the functions they need. On the RCT3 the Trail mode is firmer than RC's 12th click, and lockout is really not needed on a 150+mm for IMHO.

    But also, I must say that I have seen some differences in different RC Pike forks, regarding the max. compression feeling. Some were firmer (like mine), some were little softer when full compression was on.

  9. #1109
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    Re: Pike 2014

    Dual cannot use bottomless tokens.
    Quote Originally Posted by riding4fun View Post
    All,
    RC vs. RCT in Dual Air Model - I'm fairly certain I can get a RC 160mm Dual 26".
    From what I understand I only loose the simple 3 settings dial vs. the loss of any other advantages, correct? Secondly does the low compression adjust work throughout the range on the RC vs. just in open mode like on the RCT?

    posting in RC vs. RCT too.

  10. #1110
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    Hey, need you guys' input. I'm going to a Fox 36, primarily for the 20mm axle, and will be putting up my Pike RTC3 up for sale. What kind of $$ have you guys been seeing for a 150 29er on the used market?
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
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  11. #1111
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    What kind of $$ have you guys been seeing for a 150 29er on the used market?
    Knowing what you can get them for new, and being a cheap a$$....I will say bout' tree-fiddy!!

    I added a token and set my sag again, and I am loving this fork more and more. I really need to find my some techy stuff so I can test out how this thing does at low speeds when I have to pop the front tire up.

  12. #1112
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    thanks,
    I was hoping a RC Dual Position Pike was obtainable, but now I have my doubts.
    Not sure I can totally give up the Dual Position so I guess I'm RCT3 bound.

    Any way coming from a Fox 32 Evo, so it's got to better.

  13. #1113
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    Quote Originally Posted by macduff View Post
    I'm about 7hrs on my Pile 160 RCT3s bought earlier this year and noticed they were feeling a little harsh on last ride so checked air pressure, which a little low and the fork wasn't fully extending last 5mm still in the fork leg, let the air out pulled up to full extention in case negative chamber needed to equalise and now it wont hold air pressure :?... Love the fork when it working but not that impressed at its reliablilty (my 2 previous RS air forks lyric/boxer wc were great). Hopeing its an easy fix/seal swap as I don't want the down time to send it back for warranty.
    Just a quick update I started to strip these down and got as far as removing the air spring fork cap and noticed it had ZERO grease on the top o-ring and was no where near tight in the fork leg. So a quick grease of the o-ring and refit back with appropriate tightness and woo hoo fork is back to working (static test at least). The lack of grease says I need to pull the full air spring (and possibly charge damper) and grease up the seals as it looks like this shipped without suitable assembly by the factory :/

  14. #1114
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    Sorry if this was asked earlier, but does anyone know what is needed to convert the 26 inch pike to a 27.5 inch? Also, what is needed to up the travel from 150 mm to 160 mm?

  15. #1115
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    Quote Originally Posted by digitalsoul View Post
    Sorry if this was asked earlier, but does anyone know what is needed to convert the 26 inch pike to a 27.5 inch? Also, what is needed to up the travel from 150 mm to 160 mm?
    Lowers, CSU, damper, and airspring. So a whole new fork.

  16. #1116
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    Ive had my pike 140mm 29er for a few months now, as much as i love it it still feels a little too harsh and chattery over the rough rooty stuff.

    Im a lightweight rider at around 75kg kitted out. Im guessing the fork has 2 tokens pre fitted?

    Would i benefit from losing a token at the weight i am and would this get rid of some of the harsh feeling?

    Im running around 30% sag. Ive never bottomed the fork as of yet but saying that ive not really rode anything big.

    Can anyone recommend some base settings to try? and would i be better losing a token?

    Many thanks

  17. #1117
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    Quote Originally Posted by J273 View Post
    Ive had my pike 140mm 29er for a few months now, as much as i love it it still feels a little too harsh and chattery over the rough rooty stuff.

    Im a lightweight rider at around 75kg kitted out. Im guessing the fork has 2 tokens pre fitted?

    Would i benefit from losing a token at the weight i am and would this get rid of some of the harsh feeling?

    Im running around 30% sag. Ive never bottomed the fork as of yet but saying that ive not really rode anything big.

    Can anyone recommend some base settings to try? and would i be better losing a token?

    Many thanks
    I'd take all the tokens out and run 20% sag and tune from there. Generally, lighter riders will benefit from more linear spring curves.

  18. #1118
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Draper View Post
    Lowers, CSU, damper, and airspring. So a whole new fork.
    Thanks for the info, that is what I was afraid of.

  19. #1119
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    Pike 2014

    Quote Originally Posted by digitalsoul View Post
    Sorry if this was asked earlier, but does anyone know what is needed to convert the 26 inch pike to a 27.5 inch? Also, what is needed to up the travel from 150 mm to 160 mm?
    Do your research using part numbers. I would've thought lowers only and the appropriate airspring to get desired travel.

  20. #1120
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    Quote Originally Posted by abevern View Post
    Do your research using part numbers. I would've thought lowers only and the appropriate airspring to get desired travel.
    You would be wrong then.

  21. #1121
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    check right around page 28

  22. #1122
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    Quote Originally Posted by J273 View Post
    Ive had my pike 140mm 29er for a few months now, as much as i love it it still feels a little too harsh and chattery over the rough rooty stuff.

    Im a lightweight rider at around 75kg kitted out. Im guessing the fork has 2 tokens pre fitted? Would i benefit from losing a token at the weight i am and would this get rid of some of the harsh feeling?

    Im running around 30% sag. Ive never bottomed the fork as of yet but saying that ive not really rode anything big. Can anyone recommend some base settings to try? and would i be better losing a token?

    Many thanks
    I am your weight kitted up and have the same fork. Yes, there are 2 tokens pre-installed.

    I did exactly what Hillharman advises, but I could never find a setup that I was happy with. It still felt harsh, which could be due to the increased spring rate in the first part of travel. More volume means more pressure to achieve the same sag.

    I went back to 2 tokens and 25% sag, while taking care to set rebound on the speedy side of the scale. Rebound speed is important to prevent harshness: often this is due to the fork packing up. This is the sweet spot for me. It is plush in the first part of travel, with more than enough reserve for all but the biggest hits.

  23. #1123
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    Quote Originally Posted by J273 View Post
    Ive had my pike 140mm 29er for a few months now, as much as i love it it still feels a little too harsh and chattery over the rough rooty stuff.

    Im a lightweight rider at around 75kg kitted out. Im guessing the fork has 2 tokens pre fitted?

    Would i benefit from losing a token at the weight i am and would this get rid of some of the harsh feeling?

    Im running around 30% sag. Ive never bottomed the fork as of yet but saying that ive not really rode anything big.

    Can anyone recommend some base settings to try? and would i be better losing a token?

    Many thanks
    Go the other way. Add in another token...I think all 29ers can take at least 3 tokens (I ran 3 in my 150)...4 for the 160mm ones IIRC. Anyway, do this and reset your sag. You *should* notice your initial pressure around 5 PSI lower. Once that's set, do as JeroenK said, back your rebound off. I ran only like 3 clicks...pretty close to wide open. This thinking goes pretty much against what everyone has been suggesting on this thread, so brace for the hate that's about to come. Just try it and post back your result.

    Another thing I do to check ramp up. Pull the front brake while jumping on the bar (just standing on the side of the bike). If you can get over 50%, but under 60% of the travel, you're in the ball park on ramp up. At this point, you start tweaking w/ the compression setting. Since the RTC3 doesn't have a high speed, you may need to take the fork from open to trail when riding low speed techy steep downs where you're leaning into your front brake a lot. But on a fork w/ HSC adjuster like the Fox RC2, you'd just start ramping up your HSC.
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
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  24. #1124
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    Saddly I think my dual position Pike is loosing air, or is it normal to loose ~30 psi in a week due to altitude difference (around 3000 feet) ? I commute weekly with my bike so It happened more than twice now so it's no coincidence.

    Secondly, I bought it online from a different country from more than 1000 miles from me (Germany to Romania) so if I try to opened it by myself, are there any warranty seals inside?
    Since the whole problem could just be an broken / dry seal that could be fix in minutes.
    = Cannondale-Jekyll 4 - 2012 ≠

  25. #1125
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    Quote Originally Posted by J273 View Post
    Ive had my pike 140mm 29er for a few months now, as much as i love it it still feels a little too harsh and chattery over the rough rooty stuff.

    Im a lightweight rider at around 75kg kitted out. Im guessing the fork has 2 tokens pre fitted?

    Would i benefit from losing a token at the weight i am and would this get rid of some of the harsh feeling?

    Im running around 30% sag. Ive never bottomed the fork as of yet but saying that ive not really rode anything big.

    Can anyone recommend some base settings to try? and would i be better losing a token?

    Many thanks
    Stick with the 2 tokens that version of the Pike fork came with. Go UP in air pressure (20% is the golden standard) and faster on rebound (0nly 4 clciks in) = DIALED!
    What happens with a lot of sag is the Pike blows thru all the travel too easily and then ramps up harshly. So you need to keep the Pike higher in it's travel and adjust faster rebound for quicker recovery. Goes against conventional thinking but it works, trust me. Just did the most technical trail in the Pacific NW today and the Pike KILLED it!

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

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