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Thread: Pike 2014

  1. #2151
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    The circ-clip is wedged in there pretty good, so either it wasn't in its groove from the last service and/or it got dislodged from a crash like you said. I bet you lost most if not all of your oil in the damper. You can fill it up and bleed it without taking the entire thing out of the uppers, but i'd take the lowers off since it makes bleeding the damper a lot easier and it's not that hard. As far as the seal head, I'd replace it and not have to worry about it for another good while but it's up to you.

  2. #2152
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    Quote Originally Posted by matadorCE View Post
    The circ-clip is wedged in there pretty good, so either it wasn't in its groove from the last service and/or it got dislodged from a crash like you said. I bet you lost most if not all of your oil in the damper. You can fill it up and bleed it without taking the entire thing out of the uppers, but i'd take the lowers off since it makes bleeding the damper a lot easier and it's not that hard. As far as the seal head, I'd replace it and not have to worry about it for another good while but it's up to you.
    Sounds reasonable. I might try to fudge it while I wait for a new rebuild kit with the seal head to get here, then do it properly. I know dropping the lowers isn't that hard, but its still extra work, and I'm lazy!! Thanks for the input though.

  3. #2153
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    You dont have to drop the lowers. Just take out the damper. Rebuild and put it back

  4. #2154
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    Quote Originally Posted by slcpunk View Post
    So on my ride yesterday, the top cap and attached bits actually popped off the top of my pike. Maybe I didn't get the c-clip seated perfectly when I did the charger damper bleed a few months ago? Also possible that the top cap took a hit from a crash earlier in the ride. Anyway, regardless of the cause, I'm wondering what the minimum I have to do to get it back together is. Trying to avoid the entire rebuild again, I'm sort of slow and was just happy I got through it last time.

    Do I have to drop the lowers and do all the steps to re-assemble, or should I be able to fill with oil and just re-assemble the top part from here? ( and/or do i need to bleed the charger damper, and if so can i do it "as is" without dropping the lowers and pulling out the shaft? )

    Here are the parts that popped out while riding:
    Attachment 1088195

    Thanks in advance

    In an attempt to answer my own question, I'm thinking I need to take the fork apart and take the damper out so I can fill oil here:

    Attachment 1088199

    I definitely lost a bunch of oil, I don't think you can feed in that volume as part of the bleed step? I guess that's what I'm trying to figure out if it helps.

    Ok, last edit, I promise. If I do rebuild properly, what are the thoughts on having to replace the seal head again. I did the full damper service in February, looks like only about 60 hours of riding from then till now. The manual states "Failure to replace the seal head may result in poor fork performance". Is that just talking about the "upgraded" seal head, or is there some reason why taking it apart would ruin the seal.

    thanks again, again.
    If you were careful then the sealhead should be fine. They are only talking about the upgraded sealhead.

    Something definitely went wrong on your last rebuild. I'd take a closer look and make sure nothing is broken if you Think that the assembly was good. It has been a little while since I had one apart but I didn't think you could get it all together unless the circlip at the top was seated properly but I would say that is the most likely cause.

    I recommend you start the damper assembly from scratch as its the only way to be sure. Just double check the circlips are seated properly and nothing is damaged.

  5. #2155
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    Quote Originally Posted by niva1989 View Post
    If you were careful then the sealhead should be fine. They are only talking about the upgraded sealhead.

    Something definitely went wrong on your last rebuild. I'd take a closer look and make sure nothing is broken if you Think that the assembly was good. It has been a little while since I had one apart but I didn't think you could get it all together unless the circlip at the top was seated properly but I would say that is the most likely cause.

    I recommend you start the damper assembly from scratch as its the only way to be sure. Just double check the circlips are seated properly and nothing is damaged.
    Well so far I tried to bleed with the damper in place. Not sure that's going to work ... even though the bubbles went away, the lockout definitely didn't hold when testing.

    Guess I'll take the time to do it right and make sure.

    thanks for all the advise.

  6. #2156
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    Quote Originally Posted by slcpunk View Post
    Well so far I tried to bleed with the damper in place. Not sure that's going to work ... even though the bubbles went away, the lockout definitely didn't hold when testing.

    Guess I'll take the time to do it right and make sure.

    thanks for all the advise.
    You want the damper out of the fork to bleed it. Otherwise you cannot fully stroke it.

  7. #2157
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    Plus it lets you see if you have issues with the bladder or anything else leaking.

  8. #2158
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    Yup. Ended up pulling the damper out, without actually dropping the lowers. This proved to be the best approach. ( you could argue if doing that much should drop lowers and clean internals etc ... but again, I was being lazy and just wanted quickest solution to damper problem )

    I couldn't find anything wrong, so in the end, pretty sure the c-clip/snap ring just failed, maybe as a result of the crash, but also likely not seated perfectly. ( The bigger outer c-clip/snap ring )

    Putting everything back together made me want to reiterate: GET GOOD SNAP RING PLIERS. Don't get the kind like I got ( Home Depot, $19.99 ) that can do internal + external. There is play in them, and for the smaller ring, you simply can't squeeze it tight enough which it makes really difficult to seat properly. I mean I made it work, but a good pair of pliers would make it a snap.

    Anyway, thanks again to everyone that commented. Valuable info here!

  9. #2159
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    hey,
    not sure it's still relevant to you,but to those who had problem of popped out seals.
    I had the same problem w mine. It were Skf seals. it turns out the 2 metal springs (the inner and outer) are of different diameter on skf while same on RS ones. I first did not notice it and switched rhe 2 springs positions and had the seals blew just from pumping. but once I put the 2 in correct places it's stopped.

  10. #2160
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    In my case it's a leak in the air spring that's pressurizing the lowers and that's why my seal is popping out.

  11. #2161
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    So a resolution for my problem, I replaced everything on the air side (rod, piston, seals, etc) and the fork is back to normal, so I hope it will stay that way. Since air was leaking into the lowers, I'm thinking it had to be a seal/o-ring issue but everything looked fine when I was swapping parts out. Whatever works as long as I don't lose all air pressure while out on the trail again.

  12. #2162
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    I did similar, worked well for a week and reverted to same issue. Hope you have better luck.
    Quote Originally Posted by matadorCE View Post
    So a resolution for my problem, I replaced everything on the air side (rod, piston, seals, etc) and the fork is back to normal, so I hope it will stay that way. Since air was leaking into the lowers, I'm thinking it had to be a seal/o-ring issue but everything looked fine when I was swapping parts out. Whatever works as long as I don't lose all air pressure while out on the trail again.

  13. #2163
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    I'm trying to change the travel on a 2014 Pike RCT3 SoloAir. I'm stuck on the part where I have to remove the circlip holding the lower seal head in. How exactly are you suppose to push the seal head in to get enough space for the circlip to clear the nub in the seal head? I tried pushing it under the circlip with a flat head, but it's taking an odd amount of near-excessive force without budging.

    Another odd issue is that my air shaft doesn't stay pushed in. I have the entire top cap removed, able to look in at the seal head and cover it with my palm to feel suction if I push in the shaft and cover it... I'm confused as to what is making the shaft top out, as if something's pulling it back down from within. Anyone know what's up? Did the top out bumper get welded and become super stretchy? Should I provide video? Just don't want to dmg anything resorting to brutish force.
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  14. #2164
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    Man, it took me and mate to get that sucker back together and some time too. So much force coming back. Definitely need a appropriate circlip pliers to make it easier.
    Quote Originally Posted by Varaxis View Post
    I'm trying to change the travel on a 2014 Pike RCT3 SoloAir. I'm stuck on the part where I have to remove the circlip holding the lower seal head in. How exactly are you suppose to push the seal head in to get enough space for the circlip to clear the nub in the seal head? I tried pushing it under the circlip with a flat head, but it's taking an odd amount of excessive force without budging.

    Another odd issue is that my air shaft doesn't stay pushed in. I have the entire top cap removed, able to look in at the seal head and cover it with my palm to feel suction if I push in the shaft and cover it... I'm confused as to what is making the shaft top out, as if something's pulling it back down from within. Anyone know what's up? Did the top out bumper get welded and become super stretchy? Should I provide video?

  15. #2165
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    Quote Originally Posted by Varaxis View Post
    I'm trying to change the travel on a 2014 Pike RCT3 SoloAir. I'm stuck on the part where I have to remove the circlip holding the lower seal head in. How exactly are you suppose to push the seal head in to get enough space for the circlip to clear the nub in the seal head? I tried pushing it under the circlip with a flat head, but it's taking an odd amount of near-excessive force without budging.

    Another odd issue is that my air shaft doesn't stay pushed in. I have the entire top cap removed, able to look in at the seal head and cover it with my palm to feel suction if I push in the shaft and cover it... I'm confused as to what is making the shaft top out, as if something's pulling it back down from within. Anyone know what's up? Did the top out bumper get welded and become super stretchy? Should I provide video? Just don't want to dmg anything resorting to brutish force.
    It's the vacuum in the negative air Spring chamber causing the shaft to spring back.
    Don't think I have ever had trouble getting that one out before. I have always used bent 90deg circlip pliers that you can push down firmly on with one hand while squeezing with the other.

  16. #2166
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    Quote Originally Posted by Varaxis View Post
    I'm trying to change the travel on a 2014 Pike RCT3 SoloAir. I'm stuck on the part where I have to remove the circlip holding the lower seal head in. How exactly are you suppose to push the seal head in to get enough space for the circlip to clear the nub in the seal head? I tried pushing it under the circlip with a flat head, but it's taking an odd amount of near-excessive force without budging.

    Another odd issue is that my air shaft doesn't stay pushed in. I have the entire top cap removed, able to look in at the seal head and cover it with my palm to feel suction if I push in the shaft and cover it... I'm confused as to what is making the shaft top out, as if something's pulling it back down from within. Anyone know what's up? Did the top out bumper get welded and become super stretchy? Should I provide video? Just don't want to dmg anything resorting to brutish force.
    It shouldn't be that hard. Can you take out the air spring assembly and take some photos of it and the air chamber with top cap removed?
    You do need to push the circlip down into its groove with a screw driver once it's compressed but the force required to do this is minimal.

  17. #2167
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    Do you have the service manual open to make sure you have the assembly correct?

  18. #2168
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    False alarm. Thanks for the explanation about the vacuum in neg chamber. Jaw dropped for a moment when I read "Lyrik/Yari 120" on the end of the air shaft after installing the new one, rechecking the bag it came in and then finally looking on the other side to see Pike 27-130...

    Just simply needed the right technique with the flathead, to push it in, and also rotate the sealhead at the same time, which meant just sort of jabbing it at the the lip. I swear I did this procedure once before on my E29's Pike as part of service last year, but I guess I forgot, or it just came out with without needing to fiddle with the sealhead. Next time I let the air out, I'll only let the air out of the positive side, without trying to cycle the piston past the indent to equalize the neg chamber. Not sure why I did that this time...

    This was one of the parts I needed to finish to get my 27.5 frame built up, hopefully ready for riding by Thurs. Gotta finish hunting down some tokens...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Pike 2014-soloairshafttravelchange.jpg  

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