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Thread: Pike 2014

  1. #301
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    And maybe to clarify my initial point: the point of the middle "pedal" setting is to give you a lot of LSC, far more than you could get with just the LSC adjuster. This then blows off at some threshold level.

    The "trail" setting of the CTD damper serves the purpose of adding varying (3) amounts of LSC, depending on the trail adjust number (1, 2 or 3). If you wanted more LSC than "wide open" on the RCT3, you would just dial it in with the LSC adjuster while in the open setting, not change to pedal. I find the Pike to work well without ever using "pedal," but I don't tend to do much standing and mashing. Even when I do, the open setting with some LSC works fine.

    This is why the RCT3 controls are vastly preferable, in my opinion, to CTD. LSC is the primary suspension feature that ought to be user adjustable, and the Pike gives you the finest range of adjustment while keeping an open feeling fork.

  2. #302
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    Update to warrenty Pike for knocking

    Rode my warrantied 26" 160mm Pike today for about 1.5 hour with my LBS mechanic. So for so good no knocking. Had it on my Nicolai ION 16 and my mechanic swapped out riding it...the other bike was a Turner 5-Spot with a BOS Deville. We sessioned some small/med table tops and two drops (4ft and a 6ft). The Pike felt great, after the ride we tried to verify any movement/knocking in the stanchions...came to the conclusion it felt exactly like the BOS...but will continue to monitor. Performance wise we both agreed that it (Pike) barely surpassed the BOS...both are different yet the same, all in good ways...but the progressive spring rate and ubber plushness of the Pike put in on top.

    I plan to hit it hard on Saturday and will continue to update...but so far so good. So, thanks to my LBS pushing RS, and to RS for getting me the new fork in a timely fashion.

    Cheers,
    "I Like the Cut of His Jib"

  3. #303
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    Quote Originally Posted by hillharman View Post
    It definitely does. Quote from Rock Shox on Pike page regarding RCT3: "RCT3 features Open with an adjustable low speed compression, Pedal and Lock." Note comma location. I've also confirmed it with SRAM reps. I wish I could remember the thread in which several of us spent about 3 pages hashing this out, but this is always how the RCT3 controls have worked. I couldn't tell you if the LSC control works in the "Pedal" (middle) setting or not, but that's not it's intended purpose. Too little damper oil would sometimes cause LSC knob weirdness in the non-Charger dampers, but given that this is a sealed system, it's probably less likely to be an issue.

    Source of quote: Charger Damper | Rockshox | SRAM
    Thanks.

    Assuming the thread was about the RCT3 specifically, not the Pike's RCT3, pretty sure I recall and was part of it. Pretty sure it was the Revelation fork's RCT3. Doesn't really matter.

    Not to kick a dead horse, but I can definitely feel the affect of dialing the LSC knob when in Pedal mode. Not so much at all in the Open mode. Will have to play with it some more in the Open mode.

  4. #304
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    Quote Originally Posted by Miker J View Post
    Thanks.

    Assuming the thread was about the RCT3 specifically, not the Pike's RCT3, pretty sure I recall and was part of it. Pretty sure it was the Revelation fork's RCT3. Doesn't really matter.

    Not to kick a dead horse, but I can definitely feel the affect of dialing the LSC knob when in Pedal mode. Not so much at all in the Open mode. Will have to play with it some more in the Open mode.
    I believe you about the LSC in pedal mode. My experience with the Pike is that the LSC is very low LSC, and as a result, pretty subtle. Like the oscillation of a pedal stroke or brake diving. It doesn't take much to bypass the circuit. That's my very crude take on it, at least. My philosophy is to run a fork as open as possible, dialing up LSC to manage brake dive when descending low speed, steep technical stuff. I can tell a difference with the Pike's LSC there, so I'm very happy with it.

  5. #305
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    Can anyone clarify a warranty question I have? I'm going to grab a pike soon and obviously with the issues mentioned in this thread I want to be covered. I glanced at the warranty off Rockshox's site and it states that claims must be made through the retailer you purchase the fork from. Is this actually the case or could I have my LBS also send in the fork for warranty purposes?

  6. #306
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    I wanted to report on a problem that I had last night. It seems to have resolved itself, but here's what happened:

    Starting from the "climb" setting, I could move the adjuster to "pedal", but it then hung up about halfway to "open." With a bit of extra pressure, it moved in to "open," but could move past it, independently of the LSC adjuster nob, which usually rotates with the three position nob. The strange thing is... after a few minutes of this, it returned to normal, appropriate function. Should I pull the adjuster apart and look at it? Should I forget it ever happened since the fork is working correctly now?

  7. #307
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    Quote Originally Posted by kan3 View Post
    Can anyone clarify a warranty question I have? I'm going to grab a pike soon and obviously with the issues mentioned in this thread I want to be covered. I glanced at the warranty off Rockshox's site and it states that claims must be made through the retailer you purchase the fork from. Is this actually the case or could I have my LBS also send in the fork for warranty purposes?
    Typically if you have a solid relationship with your LBS, then yeah, they should support you. make sure you buy it from an authorized seller though!

  8. #308
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    Quote Originally Posted by hillharman View Post
    I wanted to report on a problem that I had last night. It seems to have resolved itself, but here's what happened:

    Starting from the "climb" setting, I could move the adjuster to "pedal", but it then hung up about halfway to "open." With a bit of extra pressure, it moved in to "open," but could move past it, independently of the LSC adjuster nob, which usually rotates with the three position nob. The strange thing is... after a few minutes of this, it returned to normal, appropriate function. Should I pull the adjuster apart and look at it? Should I forget it ever happened since the fork is working correctly now?
    My warranty Pike was very similar to that straight out of the box. Itís a simple fix and worth the time and peace of mind to complete. My LBS mechanic and I removed the adjustor...it appears the main adjustor knob was initially loose and not sitting in the two detents holes causing it not to rotate to the different settings correctly. We removed, adjusted, reinstalled, and all the rotation worked perfectly with each setting change stopping with a "click". Itís about a 1 beer job!
    Hope this helps,

    Cheers,
    "I Like the Cut of His Jib"

  9. #309
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    Quote Originally Posted by kan3 View Post
    Can anyone clarify a warranty question I have? I'm going to grab a pike soon and obviously with the issues mentioned in this thread I want to be covered. I glanced at the warranty off Rockshox's site and it states that claims must be made through the retailer you purchase the fork from. Is this actually the case or could I have my LBS also send in the fork for warranty purposes?
    I bought my Pike online and my LBS handled all the warranty issues. I am regular, so that might have helped. I am so impressed with the LBS I am talking to them above purchasing a second Pike for my other bike. Any LBS worth its "salt" knows it cannot compete with the online prices, and to make up the difference they need to give great customer service. Talk to them, they may be able to come close to the online price....it can be a win-win. They get to sell you something cool, you get at deal, keep you money local, and know who will help you if there is a warranty issue.

    Hope this helps.

    Cheers,
    "I Like the Cut of His Jib"

  10. #310
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    Sure

    I gave them a call just now. Doesn't hurt to see how close they can get to online pricing. I'm willing to overpay a bit to keep it local.

  11. #311
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    Quote Originally Posted by jjkitt View Post
    My warranty Pike was very similar to that straight out of the box. Itís a simple fix and worth the time and peace of mind to complete. My LBS mechanic and I removed the adjustor...it appears the main adjustor knob was initially loose and not sitting in the two detents holes causing it not to rotate to the different settings correctly. We removed, adjusted, reinstalled, and all the rotation worked perfectly with each setting change stopping with a "click". Itís about a 1 beer job!
    Hope this helps,

    Cheers,
    Thanks for the tip. This is more or less what I had expected. I'll probably pull it apart this weekend.

  12. #312
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    Has anyone been able to get extra tokens for your Pike fork? Called the shop I purchased the fork from and they said no go.


    Quote Originally Posted by thefriar View Post
    I'm going to call RS today and see where I can get more tokens.

    Didn't notice one. Two started to make things a bit more noticeably progressive. I think three will give me the small bump, sag, and the ramp for more aggressive lines/chunk.

  13. #313
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    Yes. I have extras.

    I had to call SRAM directly and ask them to send out. They sent to my LBS (took 4-5 weeks). But cost was $0, so works perfectly.

    Running three and very happy.

  14. #314
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    Quote Originally Posted by thefriar View Post
    Yes. I have extras.

    I had to call SRAM directly and ask them to send out. They sent to my LBS (took 4-5 weeks). But cost was $0, so works perfectly.

    Running three and very happy.
    Out of curiosity, how much do you weigh and what pressure are you running?

  15. #315
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    245 w/o gear, probably about 252-257 geared.
    80PSI
    27% sag

  16. #316
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    Quote Originally Posted by jjkitt View Post
    My warranty Pike was very similar to that straight out of the box. Itís a simple fix and worth the time and peace of mind to complete. My LBS mechanic and I removed the adjustor...it appears the main adjustor knob was initially loose and not sitting in the two detents holes causing it not to rotate to the different settings correctly. We removed, adjusted, reinstalled, and all the rotation worked perfectly with each setting change stopping with a "click". Itís about a 1 beer job!
    Hope this helps,

    Cheers,
    Be careful..... My Pike did something very similar, and the knobs going past their clicks was the first indication of weirdness... I then noticed that over the last few rides, my 3 position knob lost effectiveness, along with the LSC knob doing the same. Today I decided to pull the top cap of the damper, from the crown, and ended up unthreading the entire damper cartridge in two pieces. Basically what had happened, which is super strange, is the damper started to unthread mid-way, and lost oil. Threaded it back together, bled with new oil, and the clickers now stop where they should, and work again. Super goofball....
    Bend, Oregon

  17. #317
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    Quote Originally Posted by thuren View Post
    Be careful..... My Pike did something very similar, and the knobs going past their clicks was the first indication of weirdness... I then noticed that over the last few rides, my 3 position knob lost effectiveness, along with the LSC knob doing the same. Today I decided to pull the top cap of the damper, from the crown, and ended up unthreading the entire damper cartridge in two pieces. Basically what had happened, which is super strange, is the damper started to unthread mid-way, and lost oil. Threaded it back together, bled with new oil, and the clickers now stop where they should, and work again. Super goofball....
    thuren,

    Thanks for the info and heads-up, I'll make sure to keep an eye on it. So far all is well and the fork is performing perfectly! Moved the fork over to my 5Spot and plan to give it a hard ride this weekend. If the fork continues to perform at the current level I plan on selling my BOS and getting another Pike!

    Cheers,
    "I Like the Cut of His Jib"

  18. #318
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    Just got my new solo pike and there is no sag setting etching on the stanchion- is this normal?

  19. #319
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    Quote Originally Posted by cptjack View Post
    Just got my new solo pike and there is no sag setting etching on the stanchion- is this normal?
    Definitely not normal... better call the bike shop again.

  20. #320
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    Quote Originally Posted by cptjack View Post
    Just got my new solo pike and there is no sag setting etching on the stanchion- is this normal?
    I don't think 29er forks have the sag markers. The 140 29er I bought did not have them. My 160 26 pike does have them.

  21. #321
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    HAHA - man, I am going to have a stroke if this situation doesn't improve!!!!

  22. #322
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    Pike 2014

    Quote Originally Posted by fuenstock View Post
    I don't think 29er forks have the sag markers. The 140 29er I bought did not have them. My 160 26 pike does have them.
    The 29" 140 doesn't have them, but the 150 and 160 both do - they use the same stanchion.

  23. #323
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    Quote Originally Posted by kragu View Post
    The 29" 140 doesn't have them, but the 150 and 160 both do - they use the same stanchion.
    Allah be praised

  24. #324
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    I have been riding my new Ibis HDR with a 150mm Fox 2013 CTD fork for a month and have been very unhappy. I just replaced it with the 150mm RockShox Pike 27.5" and the fork is amazing. Right out of the box almost spot on. I am 160lbs and running 60psi, but will check my sag. Seems fairly close. I love the action of this fork and the Fox was topping out and clunking on square edge hits. The action on the Fox was also "boingy" and I really played with all the settings and could not find anything that worked. The Pike is a 5 star for sure and my bike will finally be able to live up to it's full potential.

  25. #325
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    My pikes have a couple of mm of free play at the the top of the stroke, my two colleagues who i used to work with, both their pikes do the same thing. They got onto the phone to sram uk who assured that it is perfectly normal and a function of the solo air spring design used.

    So my question is, those people who seem to have "bushing knocking", are you sure it isn't just this?

    It can be demonstrated by -

    1. Standing over the forks, compressing them a few times, not allowing them to reach full travel.
    2. Lift front wheel off the floor, give it a couple of seconds, then watch them extend an extra couple of mm suddenly, sometimes with a little knock.
    3. Put front wheel back on floor gently, avoiding compressing them, apply front brake, rock back and fourth gently trying to detect knocking, i guarantee you'll find it.

    Are peoples bushing knocking actually anything more than this.

    Also, i didn't get it explained to me fully for the reason why the fork has this couple of extra mm extra free extension. The air spring is essentially a single piston separating a pos and neg air chamber, the piston passes a dimple on the internal surface of the fork leg, chambers equalise. I think a little extra force trying to extend the forks (the weight of the front wheel etc in this case) takes the piston back past the equalisation point allowing a bit of extra extension.

    Yay or nay

    PS my pikes feel pretty awesome.


  26. #326
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeanFBM View Post
    Also, i didn't get it explained to me fully for the reason why the fork has this couple of extra mm extra free extension. The air spring is essentially a single piston separating a pos and neg air chamber, the piston passes a dimple on the internal surface of the fork leg, chambers equalise. I think a little extra force trying to extend the forks (the weight of the front wheel etc in this case) takes the piston back past the equalisation point allowing a bit of extra extension.
    I noticed this too, both letting air out of the fork on the trail and with the test you mentioned. I assumed it was the negative spring equalizing, as I've noticed the same behavior before in other shocks. It's normal, but if someone is calling that bushing knocking, as you say, they are mistaken, it's the wrong direction (up and down) for the knocking.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  27. #327
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    The bike I'm picking up is spec'd with a 150mm travel 2014 Fox Float and I'm going to replace it with a Pike.

    Same size Pike's A2C is listed at 542mm. The 2013 Fox is 544. That would work well for me but not sure what the Fox _2014_ A2C is.

    Anyone know for sure if the 2013 and 14 are the same? Sorry, a bit off topic.

  28. #328
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeanFBM View Post
    My pikes have a couple of mm of free play at the the top of the stroke, my two colleagues who i used to work with, both their pikes do the same thing. They got onto the phone to sram uk who assured that it is perfectly normal and a function of the solo air spring design used.

    So my question is, those people who seem to have "bushing knocking", are you sure it isn't just this?

    It can be demonstrated by -

    1. Standing over the forks, compressing them a few times, not allowing them to reach full travel.
    2. Lift front wheel off the floor, give it a couple of seconds, then watch them extend an extra couple of mm suddenly, sometimes with a little knock.
    3. Put front wheel back on floor gently, avoiding compressing them, apply front brake, rock back and fourth gently trying to detect knocking, i guarantee you'll find it.

    Are peoples bushing knocking actually anything more than this.

    Also, i didn't get it explained to me fully for the reason why the fork has this couple of extra mm extra free extension. The air spring is essentially a single piston separating a pos and neg air chamber, the piston passes a dimple on the internal surface of the fork leg, chambers equalise. I think a little extra force trying to extend the forks (the weight of the front wheel etc in this case) takes the piston back past the equalisation point allowing a bit of extra extension.

    Yay or nay

    PS my pikes feel pretty awesome.

    DeanFBM,
    Read your post prior to hitting the trail for a ride on my warrantied Pike. My warrantied Pike feels just how you describe yours operates. AND it's performance is nothing like my original Pike...on my original Pike I could feel and see the side-to-side movement (NOT up and down movement) of the stanchions in relation to the lowers..causing it to knock loudly as well. The side-to-side movement is what really freaked me out, the knocking was just icing on the cake.

    That being said, very happy with my new Pike, very satisfied how my LBS and RS treated me too.

    BTW...love the look of your YETI!! My buddy has one and loves it...when I head back home to Durgano, CO next summer I'm going rent one and ride the Test Tracks, Snake Charmer, Horse Gulch and the Hermosa Creek Trail!

    Cheers,
    "I Like the Cut of His Jib"

  29. #329
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    Has anyone had a problem with the rebound knob leaking oil? Not to the point of it dripping but that the knob is covered in oil. Wiped it off this morning and went for a 20 miler, got back and it was all slick again. This is my 2nd Pike, first one had bushing issues.

  30. #330
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    Quote Originally Posted by Streetdoctor View Post
    Has anyone had a problem with the rebound knob leaking oil? Not to the point of it dripping but that the knob is covered in oil. Wiped it off this morning and went for a 20 miler, got back and it was all slick again. This is my 2nd Pike, first one had bushing issues.
    Nope, I've taken it apart to replenish the oil bath, sound like it's the oil bath? Need a new crush-washer?
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  31. #331
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    I don't see why, the fork has about 50 miles on it. Checked the hex bolt and it was tightened to spec. I guess I'll see if I can get my hands on a washer. Probably swap oil out at the same time

  32. #332
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    I just got my new pikes from Chain Reaction, failed after 10km.
    The air spring stanchion is damaged on the inside causing the lower leg to be pressurized and blowing the dust seals out.
    I thought that rs had fixed their QC issues....

  33. #333
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    So, the bottom right is obviously a rebound damper and the top is a compression damper (the small one)? Clock wise or counter clockwise to decrease. How do would you set it up initially for more or less maximum small bump compliance- without going into the fork. I apologize for this newbie type post but things have been rough for me lately

    Thanks

    Jack

  34. #334
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    I would start off by setting your sag between 20-25%. Once you get this set, dial in the rebound. I would start right in the middle. Turn towards the turtle to slow it down and the rabbit to speed it up. For the compression (top right) start with it fully open (counter-clockwise). Ride it like that for a few rides. If it is diving add a couple clicks of LSC (low speed compression) at a time.

    If you are blowing through the travel you can add one or two of the "token" spacers. This will help,resist bottoming.

    Personally I don't use the three positions dial at all. I,leave it in the open position.

    Good luck



    Quote Originally Posted by cptjack View Post
    So, the bottom right is obviously a rebound damper and the top is a compression damper (the small one)? Clock wise or counter clockwise to decrease. How do would you set it up initially for more or less maximum small bump compliance- without going into the fork. I apologize for this newbie type post but things have been rough for me lately

    Thanks

    Jack

  35. #335
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    I just recently installed a Pike 150mm Solo Air on my Santa Cruz Bronson Carbon. Its been taking hot steaming dumps all over my Fox 34 Float CTD. Every single ride.

    I'm about 150-155lbs geared up. I'm running about 47-48psi, compression 1 click tight from full open, rebound 3 clicks slow from full open, 1 bottomless token. I'm getting excellent small bump compliance, fork stays in the top third to half of the travel the majority of the time, still takes the larger hits without bottoming out. The front runs smoother the faster I go. I've been able to corner harder with more grip...the front just feels like it stays planted.

    Now trying to decide between a Cane Creek DB Air CS or RockShox Monarch Plus RC3 for the rear shock...
    I have a black belt in MS Paint.

    2013 Santa Cruz Bronson Carbon
    2013 StumpJumper FSR Comp Carbon 29er

  36. #336
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    What fork oil are people using for lower bath service. It says rockshox 0w30 but this doesnt seem readily available and I'm sure there is probably a equivelent that is both available and cheaper (maybe 0-w30 synthetic motor oil?). Thanks

  37. #337
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    Quote Originally Posted by G-AIR View Post
    I would start off by setting your sag between 20-25%. Once you get this set, dial in the rebound. I would start right in the middle. Turn towards the turtle to slow it down and the rabbit to speed it up. For the compression (top right) start with it fully open (counter-clockwise). Ride it like that for a few rides. If it is diving add a couple clicks of LSC (low speed compression) at a time.


    If you are blowing through the travel you can add one or two of the "token" spacers. This will help,resist bottoming.

    Personally I don't use the three positions dial at all. I,leave it in the open position.

    Good luck
    Man! Exactly what I wanted! Thanks G-AIR!

  38. #338
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimarin View Post
    What fork oil are people using for lower bath service. It says rockshox 0w30 but this doesnt seem readily available and I'm sure there is probably a equivelent that is both available and cheaper (maybe 0-w30 synthetic motor oil?). Thanks
    They mean 0 w30 motor oil. The bath oil is not used for damping. You can use almost any kind of oil for the bath damping.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  39. #339
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    Quote Originally Posted by baltik View Post
    Does anyone else find it odd that one side of the lowers takes 15ml of oil and the other 5? if the lower leg oil is there purely for lubrication seems like they should be the same no? As far as I can tell every other fork takes the same amount in both legs.. Possible typo by Sram?
    Anyone else think this is odd?

  40. #340
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    Just received mine today. First thing I did was open it and check the bath oil levels. I got 10ml out of the spring side and not a single drip out of the damper side.

  41. #341
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    How is that possible?

    I just got my Pike back from creaky crown repair. They replaced upper and lower only instead of sending me a new one. It definitely has much less bushing play.
    sth

  42. #342
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    Quote Originally Posted by baltik View Post
    Anyone else think this is odd?
    Not really, it's been like that on other RS forks for years.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  43. #343
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    I just opened mine. Damper side bath was pretty dry. I was also surprised there was no fluid in the air spring chamber just some slick honey. Is that the way it's supposed to be?

    Maybe I was spoiled by the suppleness of my 2012 36 van but this fork so far isn't even close to as smooth. It feels like there is some stiction on the small bump and spiking on bigger square edge hits. I'm running 70psi and am around 210. I'm hoping the lower bath oil change helps.

  44. #344
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimarin View Post
    I just opened mine. Damper side bath was pretty dry. I was also surprised there was no fluid in the air spring chamber just some slick honey. Is that the way it's supposed to be?

    Maybe I was spoiled by the suppleness of my 2012 36 van but this fork so far isn't even close to as smooth. It feels like there is some stiction on the small bump and spiking on bigger square edge hits. I'm running 70psi and am around 210. I'm hoping the lower bath oil change helps.
    Mine and several others I have had apart only had slick honey in the air side and were alittle dry in the damper side......real normal , the slick honey works really good all by itself, many suspensions only use slick honey on the air chamber .

    My 150 solo air Pike is real plush and supple , I am 145 and am running 75 psi in it with no volume reducers at all, I would think you at 210 would be running more PSI .

    When I go through one I always add 20 cc 0W30 wt to both lowers and I add 5 cc of 0W30 wt along with slick honey in the air chamber , really seems to make them even plusher !!

    I am going to use Fox anti friction lube on the air chamber on my Pike and see how it works , ( should be just dandy ) .........still playing with lube a little and getting a feel for what will make them a smooth as possible,

    I am going to change the compression shim stack alittle bit for me on my Pike , I am running it wide open and I want to try and open the stack up with a cross over shim and clamp it on a smaller shim to enable me to use the compression setting .

    But I am really loving this fork , this is like a coil fork for me but without the weight , and the thing is really ridged

  45. #345
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    I wouldn't have thought that putting any sort of oil in the air chamber on a solo air fork would be a good idea. As soon as the seal head moves over the dimple that lets the neg camber equalize, oil will end up in the neg chamber, which would reduce its volume, wouldn't it?
    I don't crash, I just have slightly uncontrolled dismounts!

  46. #346
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kiwiplague View Post
    I wouldn't have thought that putting any sort of oil in the air chamber on a solo air fork would be a good idea. As soon as the seal head moves over the dimple that lets the neg camber equalize, oil will end up in the neg chamber, which would reduce its volume, wouldn't it?
    That is a very good question ,I take the 5cc's of oil and mix it with the slick honey and brush it on the piston and coat the wall of the positive and negative air chamber with it , so its not like a liquid.

    when I do a shock I use the same technique , even on a stock Fox CTD shock you can hear the lube getting pushed and pulled back and forth through from the positive and negative side , so it in no way is settling anywhere it shouldn't.

    I just can not believe how much I really like this fork !

  47. #347
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kiwiplague View Post
    I wouldn't have thought that putting any sort of oil in the air chamber on a solo air fork would be a good idea. As soon as the seal head moves over the dimple that lets the neg camber equalize, oil will end up in the neg chamber, which would reduce its volume, wouldn't it?
    Yes, that is exactly why they only use Slick Honey (light grease) and no oil in the air chamber.

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  48. #348
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeanFBM View Post
    My pikes have a couple of mm of free play at the the top of the stroke
    I am noticing this only now and after few weeks of hard use. Assume all OK if other riders are experiencing the same?

  49. #349
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    Quote Originally Posted by iguanabartola View Post
    I am noticing this only now and after few weeks of hard use. Assume all OK if other riders are experiencing the same?
    Yes, like was said several times earlier they all do this right there at the pressure equalization point , I have had several sets through my shop and my own all do this .
    Its just a normal function on this design , I noticed this right out the gate on mine and others .
    This fork just works so good I still can not believe it , I have tried to find something wrong or something about the design that I did not like and I can't .

    Its not very often that in the mountain biking we actually get a piece of hard wear that really works as intended , ......but this Pike really delivers .

    And like anything there is and has been some issues and frankly I do not care , my bushings are loose and I still love the thing , I will make new bushings for mine when it gets real bad ,........

  50. #350
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    Thanks Kelstr! Couldnt agree more about these forks.
    Amazing piece of suspension they are!

    Quote Originally Posted by kelstr View Post
    Yes, like was said several times earlier they all do this right there at the pressure equalization point , I have had several sets through my shop and my own all do this .
    Its just a normal function on this design , I noticed this right out the gate on mine and others .
    This fork just works so good I still can not believe it , I have tried to find something wrong or something about the design that I did not like and I can't .

    Its not very often that in the mountain biking we actually get a piece of hard wear that really works as intended , ......but this Pike really delivers .

    And like anything there is and has been some issues and frankly I do not care , my bushings are loose and I still love the thing , I will make new bushings for mine when it gets real bad ,........

  51. #351
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    Can someone confirm the number of clicks of the compression controls?
    The small inner low speed compression adjuster has 12 clicks?

    Does the open - pedal - lock settings each have a click?

    Right now my fork has a click with the lever pointing to the front of the bike (rider view looking down at the fork) The next click is 100-120 degrees later and that's it.

    Is the pedal position not "clicked" or is my damper rod not clocked correctly in order to get the third click?

  52. #352
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    12 clicks on low speed compression

    Yes its has three distinct lever positions and should feel obvious click.
    sth

  53. #353
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    Cool. That's what I thought. Thanks.

  54. #354
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    In case anyone is curious, there are some oil changes with the Pike compared to the Revelation. I noticed on the 2014 suspension oil volume chart, it lists the following for the Pike:

    Pike RCT3 drive side - Charger
    Upper tube: 3 wt suspension oil (under volume it says "Bleed")
    Lower leg: 5ml of "0w30" wt suspension oil

    Pike RCT3 non drive side - Solo Air
    Upper tube: No oil required
    Lower leg: 15ml of "0w30" wt suspension oil

    Here's the oil volume chart... http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/tH...art_2014_0.pdf

    Not sure what they mean by "Bleed" on the volume value for the Charger, will need to see the Pike manual in order to make sense of it, unless anyone else knows?

    Here are the part numbers for the oil btw:

    11.4015.354.050 - RockShox Pike Suspension oil, 0W-30, 1 Liter Bottle
    11.4315.004.020 - RockShox Rear Suspension Damping Fluid 3wt 16oz bottle

    and I found them on this website (if anyone is looking to buy them on-line):

    Bikeman RockShox Pike Suspension Oil 0-W30 1 Liter Bottle

    Bikeman SRAM PitStop Rear Suspension Oil: 3 Weight; 16oz

    On another note the Revelation manual (which apparently is the reference to follow for now), the lower leg installation mentions applying Buzzy'sģ Slick Honey bike grease to the dust seals. Is this the same as Judi Butter? And is it required for the Pike?

  55. #355
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    I think that because the new damper is a bladder it is bled until full of new oil. I'll look forward to RS posting service docs for this fork For now I'm just gonna ride the hell out of mine.
    I have a black belt in MS Paint.

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  56. #356
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    The Charger damper is a closed system. You would fill it with the volume of oil to bleed all of the air.

  57. #357
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    Mine just keeps getting better and better. I couldn't be happier. Why anyone would ride a Fox at this point is beyond me. Kelster set mine up and it's butter baby!

  58. #358
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    Has anyone ridden the 2014 Fox FIT 34 talas and the Pike and able to give me a good view on each of them?

    I have a 2014 Fox FIT 34 Talas and am considering buying a Pike, I am just not 100% convinced I will notice a big difference between the two and am thinking that its better to stick with the devil I know so to speak.

  59. #359
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    Pike 2014

    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Draper View Post
    Has anyone ridden the 2014 Fox FIT 34 talas and the Pike and able to give me a good view on each of them?

    I have a 2014 Fox FIT 34 Talas and am considering buying a Pike, I am just not 100% convinced I will notice a big difference between the two and am thinking that its better to stick with the devil I know so to speak.
    I came from a 2014 Float 34, which was much improved over the 2013. The Pike is clearly better. Different tech, different feel, and those of the Pike are superior.

  60. #360
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    I have the Pike 160mm rct3 650b and have a issue with the air pressure. This is the solo air model so set up a no brainer. Problem is I'm having to run 45psi to get 20% sag, but at 200lb riding weigth I should be in the 75-85 psi range. I came off a Lyrik solo air and rode that fork in the proper psi range. Fork seems to work well, but it's odd to have the psi range so far off. Anyone experience this with their Pike?

  61. #361
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    I have the same exact fork. I run about 47-50psi with two tokens and weight 155lbs dry. I get 20% too when just sitting upright but gets 25% when in attack position. You should be checking sag in attack position.
    sth

  62. #362
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    Anyone know where to source the bleed syringe for the charger damper, or maybe just the fitting?

  63. #363
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    I have the 650b 160mm solo air also and run 65psi to get 20% - 25% sag. I'm 175 ready to ride.

  64. #364
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    Quote Originally Posted by regularbob View Post
    On another note the Revelation manual (which apparently is the reference to follow for now), the lower leg installation mentions applying Buzzy'sģ Slick Honey bike grease to the dust seals. Is this the same as Judi Butter? And is it required for the Pike?
    They've got the Pike service manual up now:

    http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/si...e_manual_0.pdf

  65. #365
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    Quote Originally Posted by addATX View Post
    They've got the Pike service manual up now:

    http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/si...e_manual_0.pdf
    Hmmm, no mention of travel change on the DPA. Only for the solo air with the tokens. Mine's a 26er 150mm DPA RCT3 (got a good deal on a slightly used one). I was wondering if I could up it to 160mm. It seems it won't be possible without changing the air shaft as the diagram shows no tokens for the DPA.

  66. #366
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    Re: Pike 2014

    It really pisses me off that we still don't have this in the Philippines.

    Posted via Tapatalk

  67. #367
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    No good

    Bro. verbl kint,

    Souther Controls Racing in Laguna has them...also Bike Bike Bike (DPA model black 160 for 26) at Bike Tiange...what I find to be ridiculous is that the SRAM authorized PHL distributor still at present does not have any pike in their stores...you can place an order but they cannot fix a date for their shipping...:- (

  68. #368
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    I am a real basic end user and not have not mucked around with tuning my fork much. Just riding it and really liking it.

    Are you guys running yours forks in open or pedal setting? I tried the pedal setting but it found it lost the plush feel.

    Are most people running the air tokens? I have not tried that yet.

  69. #369
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    Quote Originally Posted by bicol_express View Post
    Hmmm, no mention of travel change on the DPA. Only for the solo air with the tokens. Mine's a 26er 150mm DPA RCT3 (got a good deal on a slightly used one). I was wondering if I could up it to 160mm. It seems it won't be possible without changing the air shaft as the diagram shows no tokens for the DPA.
    The "Tokens" are only for the air volume change to alter progression in the "Solo Air" , the "Tokens" have nothing to do with travel change .

    The "Solo Air" and the "DPA" both need different air shafts to correctly alter travel.

    You could just buy the "Solo Air" 160 air side and be just fine

  70. #370
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    Quote Originally Posted by mastakilla View Post
    I am a real basic end user and not have not mucked around with tuning my fork much. Just riding it and really liking it.

    Are you guys running yours forks in open or pedal setting? I tried the pedal setting but it found it lost the plush feel.

    Are most people running the air tokens? I have not tried that yet.
    The "pedal" setting, or "trail" setting in Fox lingo, is very harsh IMO. It was the same thing with the Revelation.

    The Pike is a great fork, but I sure wish there was a way to tune down the compression or "blow off" (not sure if its a compression thing or a "threshold" setting) because I find the fork almost unusable in the pedal mode. Combine that with the "lock out" or "climb" mode, I've got a fork where I use only 1 of three main modes.

    With that said, next season I think I'd like to drop the air pressure a bit and add a token to increase progressiveness. Maybe with that, I'd find the "trail" setting more useful on smoother trails.

    How many riders out there are using the "trail" mode much? When on single track I'm in the "open" setting about 99% of the time.

  71. #371
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    With reference to this thread -

    Reducing a Pike 150>140 and a 160>150 tech thread

    Is it really possible to change the travel of the pikes with just the shaft assy?

    I think you needed the whole spring kit?

    Can people confirm? I'll go do some more digging.

  72. #372
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    Quote Originally Posted by mastakilla View Post
    I am a real basic end user and not have not mucked around with tuning my fork much. Just riding it and really liking it.

    Are you guys running yours forks in open or pedal setting? I tried the pedal setting but it found it lost the plush feel.

    Are most people running the air tokens? I have not tried that yet.
    I'm in the fully open setting for all trail riding. Adding a token definitely makes a difference in the feel for the fork. It's super easy to do and worth checking out if you've got the inclination.

    Quote Originally Posted by Miker J View Post
    With that said, next season I think I'd like to drop the air pressure a bit and add a token to increase progressiveness. Maybe with that, I'd find the "trail" setting more useful on smoother trails.

    How many riders out there are using the "trail" mode much? When on single track I'm in the "open" setting about 99% of the time.

    I dropped pressure, added a third token (29er 140mm Solo), and that did indeed make it more progressive.... but that just further pointed me towards using the open setting all the time.
    It works for me, for now.

  73. #373
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    Yes,
    All you need is the air piston, ~$45 part. Sram warrantied my 160mm Pike with a 150mm...they were out of the 160mm...just sent me a 150mm and 160 piston. 2 beer job...that easy. Here is an example RockShox Pike Air Shaft Solo Air 160mm Travel 26 or 150mm Travell 27.5 A1

    Hope this helps.

    Cheers,
    Quote Originally Posted by DeanFBM View Post
    With reference to this thread -

    Reducing a Pike 150>140 and a 160>150 tech thread

    Is it really possible to change the travel of the pikes with just the shaft assy?

    I think you needed the whole spring kit?

    Can people confirm? I'll go do some more digging.
    "I Like the Cut of His Jib"

  74. #374
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    Pike 2014

    Quote Originally Posted by jjkitt View Post
    Yes,
    All you need is the air piston, ~$45 part. Sram warrantied my 160mm Pike with a 150mm...they were out of the 160mm...just sent me a 150mm and 160 piston. 2 beer job...that easy. Here is an example RockShox Pike Air Shaft Solo Air 160mm Travel 26 or 150mm Travell 27.5 A1

    Hope this helps.

    Cheers,
    This is really, really excellent news. Thanks!!

  75. #375
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    I rode my back up bike today, which has a Lyrik 2 step (probably a 2007 or 2008). Anyway, it was night and day compared to my 2011 Revelation. Buttery smooth, tracking so well, and so confidence inspiring. Anyhow, as best as I can tell, the Pike seems pretty similar to the Lyrik. Now, the $1000 question: my bike is a 26" Carbine for now. Should I get the 27.5 version of the fork and use it with 26" wheels until I move up to 650b? How much taller is the 27.5 fork?
    Faster is not always better, but it's always more fun

  76. #376
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    Pike 2014

    Quote Originally Posted by zorg View Post
    I rode my back up bike today, which has a Lyrik 2 step (probably a 2007 or 2008). Anyway, it was night and day compared to my 2011 Revelation. Buttery smooth, tracking so well, and so confidence inspiring. Anyhow, as best as I can tell, the Pike seems pretty similar to the Lyrik. Now, the $1000 question: my bike is a 26" Carbine for now. Should I get the 27.5 version of the fork and use it with 26" wheels until I move up to 650b? How much taller is the 27.5 fork?
    I'm gonna guess its in the neighborhood of .75" taller.

  77. #377
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    Quote Originally Posted by kragu View Post
    I'm gonna guess its in the neighborhood of .75" taller.
    Apparently, the a2c on the 26" 160mm is 542mm and 552mm on the 27.5". Of course, the trail may be different.
    Faster is not always better, but it's always more fun

  78. #378
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    Quote Originally Posted by mastakilla View Post
    I am a real basic end user and not have not mucked around with tuning my fork much. Just riding it and really liking it.

    Are you guys running yours forks in open or pedal setting? I tried the pedal setting but it found it lost the plush feel.

    Are most people running the air tokens? I have not tried that yet.
    I have the 150 29er Pike with 51 mm offset , this fork comes with 1 token and it worked very good , I removed the token because I like the smooth plush linear feel , I run the fork in the open setting while on the trail , the compression is clicked all out , it just works so good there for any type of trail use for me , I run 75 psi in the air side.
    I am 145 lbs necked on XL Yeti SB95C.

    I use this as an AM bike , on some of the bigger drops and G-outs I will just not quite bottom the fork , I like to have 1/4 " left for when I screw myself.

    When Im on the street riding home is when I will use the "Trail setting", depending if there are out of the saddle pedaling I will run it in the locked position , also I have my CTD rear shock in climb mode on the street also ,never in climb mode on the trail .

    So I do use all the settings just not on trail
    Last edited by kelstr; 12-02-2013 at 07:50 PM. Reason: wanted to add info that I left out .

  79. #379
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    Quote Originally Posted by half_man_half_scab View Post
    Anyone know where to source the bleed syringe for the charger damper, or maybe just the fitting?
    This. I don't even need the syringe - I have a spare Reverb bleed (not been used) for that, but just need the threaded adapter bits. I'd hoped it was going to be the same end as on the Avid and Reverb bleed bits, but no such luck.

    If it came with my fork, oops - box is long gone...
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  80. #380
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    Quote Originally Posted by mastakilla View Post
    I am a real basic end user and not have not mucked around with tuning my fork much. Just riding it and really liking it.

    Are you guys running yours forks in open or pedal setting? I tried the pedal setting but it found it lost the plush feel.

    Are most people running the air tokens? I have not tried that yet.
    I have a 150 29er 46mm rake non-adjust travel model. I run w/ 3 tokens in and very reduced air pressure to meet the need that the fork's initial movement be VERY sensitive to help me NOT get bounced off my line on steep and tech climbs. I'm 175 nekkid and at ~38 - 40 psi, I get 25% sag. I run mine fully opened w/ about 2 clicks of LSC in from full open for just about everywhere. I'll engage the "pedal" mode when the trail turns super steep and slow (reads as using a LOT of front brake), to keep the front end from augering into the dirt. Without going into the "pedal" mode, I don't bottom on your average trails (but still get ~95% of full travel), but will bottom on the steep tech/chunders. With the fork in "pedal" mode, I use about 80% of travel in the steep and slow chunks.

    The bike it's on is a Tallboy LTc.
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  81. #381
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    Silly question but is there a quick way to find out with offset fork you have? I ordered the pike 140 51 and just want to make sure verify I got the correct fork from the retailer before I leave town for a bit.

  82. #382
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    look under the crown, It's cast there.
    Steve
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  83. #383
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimmybjj View Post
    Silly question but is there a quick way to find out with offset fork you have? I ordered the pike 140 51 and just want to make sure verify I got the correct fork from the retailer before I leave town for a bit.
    On the bottom of the crown there will be a cast in marking , it should be a 51 on it and another number below the 51 . ( this is for the 29er fork )

    the 26 and 27.5 offset is marked differently from what I can tell .

  84. #384
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    Thanks for the info!

  85. #385
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    Very happy to discover that all the branding on the pike are stickers, those things came off fast.

    Got my 140mm 51mm offset in today

    Pike 2014-sam_4770_zpsda1f257a.jpg
    Last edited by Vegard; 12-04-2013 at 06:17 AM.

  86. #386
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    Pike 2014

    Quote Originally Posted by SManZ View Post
    I think that because the new damper is a bladder it is bled until full of new oil. I'll look forward to RS posting service docs for this fork For now I'm just gonna ride the hell out of mine.
    SRAM has already posted the Pike service manual. I was eagerly awaiting its arrival as well. Problem is, you can't tear down your fork yet as they haven't released the bleed adapter. Looks like those will be arriving in February.

  87. #387
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    I think this has been posted already but here it is again... the link to the Pike service manual:

    http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/si...e_manual_0.pdf

    Interesting that in the solo air travel change adjustment table there are additional travel options listed. However, no part numbers listed:

    26-120 mm
    26-130 mm/27-120 mm
    26-140 mm/27-130 mm

    The shortest air shaft that's currently available is the following. Maybe the above air shafts will become available in Feb too.

    26-150 mm/27-140 mm/29-120 mm (this is part# 11.4018.026.003)

  88. #388
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    Very happy to discover that all the branding on the pike are stickers, those things came off fast.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Looks good with the stealth/murdered out look. Might do that with mine considering I have a stealthy black SC Solo C frame.

    How are you liking the Honzo btw?

  89. #389
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    Does anyone else notice a harsh topout with the solo air when you pull up on the the bars? I only notice it on climbs when I'm really working the bars, or just the kitchen pre-ride test.

  90. #390
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    My pike2014 is less than 6 month old and has around a 100 hours of use.
    Recently all drive (right) side stop responding to adjustment knobs, rebound, compression and also lock out, nothing not working any more.
    I take the fork to service center and what we found was impressed me...
    A Bladder is just blow-up, wow how it can heaped? and what about reliability of this shock? this issue not looking good IMHO.
    Pike 2014-pike.jpg

  91. #391
    Mountain Lion Bait
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    No es bueno ^^

  92. #392
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    Quote Originally Posted by kelstr View Post
    The "Tokens" are only for the air volume change to alter progression in the "Solo Air" , the "Tokens" have nothing to do with travel change .

    The "Solo Air" and the "DPA" both need different air shafts to correctly alter travel.

    You could just buy the "Solo Air" 160 air side and be just fine
    got it, thanks.

  93. #393
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    Anyone install the Pike themselves? I have a question regarding setting the crown race...

    Park Tools has a couple of youtube videos illustrating how to prepare the fork and setting the crown race. They say to use the Crown Race Cutting Tool (CRC-1) to ream/face the fork crown to make a precise smooth surface for the crown race. Anyone done this with their Pike? Is it required for the Pike?

    The CRC-1 is a $500 tool! The process also requires the CRS-15 Crown Race Setter which is a $80 tool. So am thinking that maybe I should just take the fork to my LBS to get the crown race set?

  94. #394
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    Quote Originally Posted by regularbob View Post
    Anyone install the Pike themselves? I have a question regarding setting the crown race...

    Park Tools has a couple of youtube videos illustrating how to prepare the fork and setting the crown race. They say to use the Crown Race Cutting Tool (CRC-1) to ream/face the fork crown to make a precise smooth surface for the crown race. Anyone done this with their Pike? Is it required for the Pike?

    The CRC-1 is a $500 tool! The process also requires the CRS-15 Crown Race Setter which is a $80 tool. So am thinking that maybe I should just take the fork to my LBS to get the crown race set?
    I just bought a $2 piece of PVC pipe from my local hardware store; and used that to set the crown race. Took about 30 seconds. just make sure it is the right diameter to fit over the race.

  95. #395
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    Quote Originally Posted by expatrider View Post
    I just bought a $2 piece of PVC pipe from my local hardware store; and used that to set the crown race. Took about 30 seconds. just make sure it is the right diameter to fit over the race.
    And did you machine/face the forkís crown race seat? Haven't inspected mine yet so not sure how flush it comes.

  96. #396
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    Quote Originally Posted by regularbob View Post
    And did you machine/face the forkís crown race seat? Haven't inspected mine yet so not sure how flush it comes.
    no.

  97. #397
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    Quote Originally Posted by expatrider View Post
    no.
    Thanks, so it's probably not required. Makes things easier and cheaper for me.

  98. #398
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    Quote Originally Posted by vadimn View Post
    My pike2014 is less than 6 month old and has around a 100 hours of use.
    Ouch, this had been a fairly common problem with forks using bladder compensators in the past, but this is the first Pike I've seen suffer a burst. Contact Rockshox for warranty, 100 hours is well bellow the claimed lifespan for one of those.

  99. #399
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    Quote Originally Posted by expatrider View Post
    I just bought a $2 piece of PVC pipe from my local hardware store; and used that to set the crown race. Took about 30 seconds. just make sure it is the right diameter to fit over the race.
    I can confirm that this works great.

  100. #400
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    Quote Originally Posted by regularbob View Post
    Looks good with the stealth/murdered out look. Might do that with mine considering I have a stealthy black SC Solo C frame.

    How are you liking the Honzo btw?
    On an all black bike it would look even better
    With the gold and orange on my frame all the stickers on the fork just looked wrong.

    Haven't ridden it yet, it's a winter project of mine and I still need the wheels and crank

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