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Thread: Pike 2014

  1. #201
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    I was under the impression that the dual position forks were only available in white.

  2. #202
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    All part numbers for all RockShox product is here:

    http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/pG..._spc_rev_a.pdf

    If you want to know if you can swap lowers to convert from 26 to 275 or whatever, this will tell you. Not overtly, but you'll have to see what parts are used for each fork.

    My 2012 Revelation 26" solo air fork uses all the same internals as the 275 version so I just bought lowers and installed them to convert my fork.

    mk
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  3. #203
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    Quote Originally Posted by trailbildr View Post
    All part numbers for all RockShox product is here:

    http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/pG..._spc_rev_a.pdf

    If you want to know if you can swap lowers to convert from 26 to 275 or whatever, this will tell you. Not overtly, but you'll have to see what parts are used for each fork.

    My 2012 Revelation 26" solo air fork uses all the same internals as the 275 version so I just bought lowers and installed them to convert my fork.

    mk
    This is gold. Thanks for posting.

  4. #204
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    The SRAM service site is FULL of good stuff. It's the first place to go, really...

    Service Resources - RockShox | SRAM

    mk
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    trailwerkssuspension.com
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  5. #205
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    Killer fork. I have a 2014 S-works Enduro with the 160mm. I've played with it a lot and have the tokens and preload set how I like.

    For HIGH speed square edge hits, am I the only one who feels this fork has too much high-speed compression? I'm wishing for a bit more low speed comp, and less high speed comp, for some good blow off.
    Bend, Oregon

  6. #206
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    How fast are you going and through what kind of terrain? At the ski resort I don't think it has too much all, nor through really chunky sharp rocks. The "blow off" is very seemless with this fork, but the air-spring curve makes it resist using travel IMO, not so much the low speed compression.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  7. #207
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post

    I like to set the compression damping to non-existent for climbs so the front wheel can follow the ground w/o any of my weight on the bar. On the downs, turn to the middle of the RCT3 setting to get some mid-stroke support. This was how I rode the Fox 34 to pretty good effect.
    Are you talking about the clicking low speed compression dial here tg the middle, or flipping the blue lever to the middle setting?

  8. #208
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    Quote Originally Posted by BushPilot View Post
    Are you talking about the clicking low speed compression dial here tg the middle, or flipping the blue lever to the middle setting?
    I think the LSC (maybe I'm using the wrong term) is in the middle of the blue lever? Anyway, that's backed all the way out. The 3 RCT settings is set to the lightest damping also. Basically, as low of a compression setting as possible so the fork will compress w/ the minimal amount of force. When I go down, I'm referring to flipping the blue lever.

    Oh BTW, I set my sag at that lightest comp damping setting. The air pressure is a LOT lower than you'd get from their chart, even w/ 2 tokens in. I went for a ride yesterday and was running a touch above 45psi and I still had an inch of travel I didn't use w/ the lowest comp damping. It was a slower out/back trail w/ more tech. And, I didn't even bother flipping the blue lever to the middle of the 3 RCT setting on the downs.
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
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  9. #209
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    How fast are you going and through what kind of terrain? At the ski resort I don't think it has too much all, nor through really chunky sharp rocks. The "blow off" is very seemless with this fork, but the air-spring curve makes it resist using travel IMO, not so much the low speed compression.
    Any normal 4" tall rock at 20mph feels pretty abrupt. I generally would run a bit more pressure than most, in my forks in the past, but 75 psi at 195lbs I don't think is out of line with this fork. 75 psi with no volume spacers(stock one removed), for the most linear feel I can get, while keeping the front end high, I am happy with the slow speed feel and diving in berms, but the high speed valving does feel stiff.

    I also have the rebound all the way open, and it's still not "too fast" yet. Makes me wonder if my fork was assembled with a heavier weight oil or something.
    Bend, Oregon

  10. #210
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    Gotcha. Thanks! I'm running a just little over 50 psi with two tokens. It is plush but a little divey under hard braking. Although I have not totally bottomed the fork yet even with hard landings. I have had the lsc knob backed all the way out too, so starting to experiment with bumping it up a little and well as flipping the lever to the mid setting like you've been doing. I notice turning the knob and also maybe flipping the lever affect the rebound speed.

  11. #211
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    Removed my lowers to inspect after about 5 rides. I got 3 drips out of one lower, and and MAYBE a teaspoon full out of the other. I know the spec oil volume is small, but this was REALLY dry.

    Some PTFE seal grease pushed into foam ring, and filling the seals, and some 7wt shock oil(lighter for cold season) in the lowers, and the fork is AMAZINGLY more compliant. The slow rebound I was noting two posts up, is substantially faster. I thought it was buttery before it is REALLY buttery now!

    I also played with the bare cartridge, and I am now confident that I was wrong two posts up, and there is not too much high speed compression. I could blast on that thing with the adjusters full open with very little restriction.
    Last edited by thuren; 09-27-2013 at 03:17 PM.
    Bend, Oregon

  12. #212
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    Quote Originally Posted by thuren View Post
    Removed my lowers to inspect after about 5 rides. I got 3 drips out of one lower, and and MAYBE a teaspoon full out of the other. I know the spec oil volume is small, but this was REALLY dry.

    Some PTFE seal grease pushed into foam ring, and filling the seals, and some 7wt shock oil(lighter for cold season) in the lowers, and the fork is AMAZINGLY more compliant. The slow rebound I was noting two posts up, is substantially faster. I thought it was buttery before it is REALLY buttery now!

    I also played with the bare cartridge, and I am not confident that I was wrong two posts up, and there is not too much high speed compression. I could blast on that thing with the adjusters full open with very little restriction.
    Is there a good set of rebuild instructions out yet?

  13. #213
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    I'm cracking it open in a few hrs or service the oil bath with the recommended 0w30 oil.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  14. #214
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    Quote Originally Posted by hillharman View Post
    Is there a good set of rebuild instructions out yet?
    I have not seen full rebuild instructions, but this is for servicing the lowers.

    http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/mS...ice_manual.pdf
    Bend, Oregon

  15. #215
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    I'm cracking it open in a few hrs or service the oil bath with the recommended 0w30 oil.
    What oil are you guys using? Thanks for the service instruction link.

  16. #216
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    Such a great thread - loving my new Pike 150mm on the Knolly Endo. It was reading all the initial reviews / comments on this thread that put me over the edge. Thanks guys.

    After throwing the fork on the bike - i quickly set the sag and didnt touch a single setting - felt awesome right away.

    Stoked.
    I support EMBA

  17. #217
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    Quote Originally Posted by hillharman View Post
    What oil are you guys using? Thanks for the service instruction link.
    0w30, Mobile, that's what is specified. About the right amount came out of the left leg. Nothing came out of the right. 5ml is almost nothing... Changing this oil was easy though, no surprises.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  18. #218
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    Great thread. Interestingly enough my 140mm pike solo came with 2 tokens installed and two more in the bag. With 2 installed I had about 70psi and I wasn't using all of the travel. I just removed one and bumped up the pressure to 90 (sag set at exactly 20%). Unfortunately I won't be able to ride until at least next wednesday to see if it made any difference. I might pull the lowers now to see what kind of oil volume is in mine in the mean time. FWIW I'm about 190lbs without gear.

  19. #219
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    My experience has been with two tokens installed, vs no token, and same 20% sag I am using more travel and fork feels much more supple. At 155lbs body weight, I am running 47lbs psi with two tokens and 55psi with no tokens. I wish there was more tokens that came in the box with fork.
    sth

  20. #220
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    I am finding that pressures and settings, from rider to rider, vary a LOT with this fork. Weight plays a part naturally, but I'm starting to think that riding style plays a bigger part with tuning this fork, as the fork is so smooth, you can feel the changes more than normal.

    I'm 190-200lbs geared up(depending on Camelback or not).

    I had one token in stock, and with 65psi I felt like the fork was too mushy, even with the low speed all the way in. Rebound was also too slow for me also, with the knob full open. Use of travel was great on big hits.

    I now am at 76psi with no tokens, and I am WAY happier. Faster rebound, low speed compression all the way in, plus the extra pressure, now staying high in the supple part of the stroke. Using full travel, and not diving in corners.
    Bend, Oregon

  21. #221
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    Quote Originally Posted by thuren View Post
    I am finding that pressures and settings, from rider to rider, vary a LOT with this fork. Weight plays a part naturally, but I'm starting to think that riding style plays a bigger part with tuning this fork, as the fork is so smooth, you can feel the changes more than normal.

    I'm 190-200lbs geared up(depending on Camelback or not).

    I had one token in stock, and with 65psi I felt like the fork was too mushy, even with the low speed all the way in. Rebound was also too slow for me also, with the knob full open. Use of travel was great on big hits.

    I now am at 76psi with no tokens, and I am WAY happier. Faster rebound, low speed compression all the way in, plus the extra pressure, now staying high in the supple part of the stroke. Using full travel, and not diving in corners.

    How is it for the high speed hits? Still ruff or did adding oil smooth out those high speed hits? You guys have me thinking of leaving coil for the first time since.........ever! How is the tracking? Wheel glued to the ground at high speeds or does it skip around a bit?

  22. #222
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    Pike 2014

    Quote Originally Posted by Swissam View Post
    How is it for the high speed hits? Still ruff or did adding oil smooth out those high speed hits? You guys have me thinking of leaving coil for the first time since.........ever! How is the tracking? Wheel glued to the ground at high speeds or does it skip around a bit?
    For me, the high speed comp is excellent. I had a 2013 and 2014 Fox 34 before this and they would both skip around and feel harsh or wallowy as I toyed with settings. Pretty much right out of the box the Pike was insanely controlled, and I find myself plowing through sections that made me nervous before. I can actually correct my lines through really rough stuff rather than worrying about being super careful to pick the smoothest one at the top of a chunky section. So. Much. Fun.

  23. #223
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    Quote Originally Posted by Swissam View Post
    How is it for the high speed hits? Still ruff or did adding oil smooth out those high speed hits? You guys have me thinking of leaving coil for the first time since.........ever! How is the tracking? Wheel glued to the ground at high speeds or does it skip around a bit?
    It's the most comparable fork to a coil I have tried. My problem with air forks has been never using full travel, as I like lots of pressure to keep the front end high, and rebound fast, like a coil. At that pressure, it would be RARE I would get full travel with other forks.

    I would always do a test with my fork, from my DH days. I would roll about 5mph, and with my weight full force, ALL the strength I had, try my hardest to bottom the fork. If it bottomed easy, I would add compression. Not use full travel, remove compression.

    My last few Fox forks, when set up riding and handling like I wanted, I would always come up about an inch short doing this test, as the air pressure ramped up too much.

    This Pike is the first fork I've owned, that when I have the pressure "right" for me, that I can use 90%-100% of the travel easily, doing this test.....

    EDIT: I am SUPER picky regarding the way suspension feels, on TRUE "high shaft speed" hits. At first my Pike was a bit sticky masking bad high-speed compression performance. Once I dropped the lowers, greased and lubed, all good super fast acting on the high speed.
    Bend, Oregon

  24. #224
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    Quote Originally Posted by thuren View Post
    It's the most comparable fork to a coil I have tried. My problem with air forks has been never using full travel, as I like lots of pressure to keep the front end high, and rebound fast, like a coil. At that pressure, it would be RARE I would get full travel with other forks.

    I would always do a test with my fork, from my DH days. I would roll about 5mph, and with my weight full force, ALL the strength I had, try my hardest to bottom the fork. If it bottomed easy, I would add compression. Not use full travel, remove compression.

    My last few Fox forks, when set up riding and handling like I wanted, I would always come up about an inch short doing this test, as the air pressure ramped up too much.

    This Pike is the first fork I've owned, that when I have the pressure "right" for me, that I can use 90%-100% of the travel easily, doing this test.....

    EDIT: I am SUPER picky regarding the way suspension feels, on TRUE "high shaft speed" hits. At first my Pike was a bit sticky masking bad high-speed compression performance. Once I dropped the lowers, greased and lubed, all good super fast acting on the high speed.
    I've also noticed a bit of a break in period on my Pike. It started out still plusher than my 2013 Fox 34, but has gotten even better since then.

  25. #225
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    Quote Originally Posted by thuren View Post
    EDIT: I am SUPER picky regarding the way suspension feels, on TRUE "high shaft speed" hits. At first my Pike was a bit sticky masking bad high-speed compression performance. Once I dropped the lowers, greased and lubed, all good super fast acting on the high speed.
    Thanks for the post. You have me thinking that I need to open up the shock and check the oil level, and do essentially what you did. Haven't opened up a fork before, so I'm a bit nervous about it, but it can't be that bad. Do you need any special tools? And when you say "greased", what did you grease?

  26. #226
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    Quote Originally Posted by White Bear View Post
    Thanks for the post. You have me thinking that I need to open up the shock and check the oil level, and do essentially what you did. Haven't opened up a fork before, so I'm a bit nervous about it, but it can't be that bad. Do you need any special tools? And when you say "greased", what did you grease?
    Rubber mallet. For ages RS has used damping/dummy shafts that press into the lowers, so you need a rubber mallet to knock them up into the fork (with the bike turned upside down. Then simply turn it upside down and see what comes out. Add the required oil to both sides, reinstall foot-nuts and adjuster knob, good to go. Since it's not an "open bath damper", you don't have to worry about a huge mess of oil.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  27. #227
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    Cool-blue Rhythm

    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    Rubber mallet. Then simply turn it upside down and see what comes out. Add the required oil to both sides, reinstall foot-nuts and adjuster knob, good to go. Since it's not an "open bath damper", you don't have to worry about a huge mess of oil.
    OMG, gotta do a YouTube video of me whacking my $1100 fork and watching parts fall out the bottom! Not sure the huevos are that big!

  28. #228
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    Quote Originally Posted by White Bear View Post
    OMG, gotta do a YouTube video of me whacking my $1100 fork and watching parts fall out the bottom! Not sure the huevos are that big!
    This is normal procedure to drop the lowers on pretty much any modern fork.

    So, get a friend to help who has done this before, or resign yourself to paying someone else to do it.

  29. #229
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    SRAM's youtube channel have lots of useful videos: SRAMtech - YouTube

    <iframe width="420" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/Yl0GdF0w5hI" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

  30. #230
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    So does the pike and monarch rc3 come with remote? I don't belive they do but I could be wrong. At first I thought who needs remote control for a shock or fork? (prejudice stemming from much earlier carnations) However out on a very rough trail today (a more open setting) were a few rock lips, small jumps and what have you when I realized how much more fun and more air I could have if I had one switch to control both fork and shock, being able to flip up the compression on the fly getting more pop off a jump then flip it back to open and how that could make the DH that much more fun. I had always looked at the remote suspension as more of a climbing feature until today. Or am I wrong and remotes suck?

  31. #231
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    Today I noticed that my fork would make a sound as though it was topping out when the fork traveled from compressed to fully extended. I've been riding the 29'er Solo 140 for a couple of months now and this is the first time noticing this sound. Any concerns?

  32. #232
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    Quote Originally Posted by trailbildr View Post
    All part numbers for all RockShox product is here:

    http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/pG..._spc_rev_a.pdf

    If you want to know if you can swap lowers to convert from 26 to 275 or whatever, this will tell you. Not overtly, but you'll have to see what parts are used for each fork.

    My 2012 Revelation 26" solo air fork uses all the same internals as the 275 version so I just bought lowers and installed them to convert my fork.

    mk
    So just change the lowers, and voila, you got a 27.5 Revelation? That might be a great way to get into 650b.
    Faster is not always better, but it's always more fun

  33. #233
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    Today I reached for my rebound knob and to my surprise, it was gone??? Will this be an easy LBS item to purchase?

  34. #234
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    Quote Originally Posted by bassn View Post
    Today I reached for my rebound knob and to my surprise, it was gone??? Will this be an easy LBS item to purchase?
    Not exactly an unusual occurrence with Rockshox forks. Can be a good idea to set your rebound and then remove the knob and keep it in a safe place, i.e. in your camelbak (if you use one).
    Your lbs should be able to order one in for you.
    I don't crash, I just have slightly uncontrolled dismounts!

  35. #235
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    Quote Originally Posted by bassn View Post
    Today I noticed that my fork would make a sound as though it was topping out when the fork traveled from compressed to fully extended. I've been riding the 29'er Solo 140 for a couple of months now and this is the first time noticing this sound. Any concerns?
    Anyone else experiencing such a sound/feel? I'm not the most experienced when it comes to suspension issues, but it does feel abnormal. Today I will check the fluid levels on the lowers to see if that might be the culprit. It's just weird that it happened all of a sudden???

  36. #236
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    Some noise is not abnormal when running excessive rebound. Supposedly the charger can handle lots of rebound damping, but I'd still question your setting (how many clicks?). Otherwise, it could mean air in the damping cartridge, but you'd likely notice this as a lack of damping. The noise could be air just escaping/entering the damping leg, which is hollow obviously.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  37. #237
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    Some noise is not abnormal when running excessive rebound. Supposedly the charger can handle lots of rebound damping, but I'd still question your setting (how many clicks?). Otherwise, it could mean air in the damping cartridge, but you'd likely notice this as a lack of damping. The noise could be air just escaping/entering the damping leg, which is hollow obviously.
    Thanks for replying. I'm running my rebound in the middle of the setting. Since my rebound knob fell, I couldn't tell you how many clicks. It's more of a slight thunk sound.

  38. #238
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    What do you guys think about a separate thread for "PREFERRED PIKE SETTINGS". I could see something like the following would be helpful:
    1) Rider weight
    2) Fork length
    3) # of tokens
    4) LSC (clicks)
    5) measured SAG
    6) PSI
    7) maybe type of use

    Other ideas?

  39. #239
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    Pike 2014

    Wheel size. I believe all 3 have different air chamber volumes.

  40. #240
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    Quote Originally Posted by White Bear View Post
    What do you guys think about a separate thread for "PREFERRED PIKE SETTINGS". I could see something like the following would be helpful:
    1) Rider weight
    2) Fork length
    3) # of tokens
    4) LSC (clicks)
    5) measured SAG
    6) PSI
    7) maybe type of use

    Other ideas?
    Great idea in theory... but useless in reality. Type of trails ridden, rider skill, rider aggressiveness, rider preferences and so on have a huge impact.

    Actually the biggest issue is that some people have no idea how to properly adjust their fork and shouldn't be used as a reference. They might be happy or at least content with the way it performs, but their settings won't help someone else get their fork tuned right.

  41. #241
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    What are the best tuning options do increase small bump sensitivity without bottoming.
    1) lower PSI, add tokens
    2) lower PSI, less rebound dampening (quicker rebound)
    3) lower PSI, increase LSC
    4) other suggestions

    Currently running 0-2 clicks of LSC
    8-10 clicks in from full out of rebound
    1 token
    22.65% sag
    Any thoughts are appreciated.

  42. #242
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    A combination of all of the above for me. I ended up adding 2 tokens, running about 25% sag ( a bit over 50 psi) and a couple clicks of lsc. I don't often use all the travel and it's plush.

  43. #243
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    Quote Originally Posted by G-AIR View Post
    2) lower PSI, less rebound dampening (quicker rebound)
    3) lower PSI, increase LSC
    Combo of the above. My recommended air pressure is 75psi but after playing with the forks, I ended up running 60psi (gives me 25% sag) and no tockens + 3 clicks of LSC and slighlty quicker rebound..... SUPER happy with the forks. Actually, blown away by these forks.

  44. #244
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    150 solo, 160 solo or 160 dual?

    Hi MTBR

    Here's my first and quite heavy post on the forum - hope you can help me

    I recently bought a used black 2012 Yeti SB-66 alloy with the standard 150mm Fox Float 32 without kashima. So stoked about the bike in general but the fork seems a little flimsy during high speed and rough stuff, and not that sensitive when it comes to small bumps and plushness overall.

    Therefore I'm considering an upgrade to the RS PIKE.

    But I'm in doubt on which model to choose.

    I'm living in flat Denmark and most of my riding is in local forests with a lot of short climbs and descents. My riding style is aggressive cross country moving into all mountain. I like to do drops (currently up to 4 ft) and I'm working on improving my airtime. Occasionally I'll bring the bike to the Alps and serious mountains abroad, but I'll mostly use the bike in more modest topography.

    The obvious choice would be the 150mm solo black version, because it's the "natural" travel length with which my bike was "born". With my current fork I sometimes miss a little extra travel ... whether that's due to the fact that my current fork isn't using all of it's travel or that it's too harsh - I cannot tell. (I'm 88kg in full gear and the fork is set to 75psi, sag is around 30%))

    The second option would be the 160mm solo version also in black. I do not mind a slack geometry on the straights and descents, but I'm concerned that the bike would become too cumbersome while climbing.

    The third option and probably the one I think is the most interesting, is the Dual Position 160mm. Being able to lower the fork 30mm while climbing, sounds very appealing to me, but it has a significant drawback: the fork only comes in white!! which will not match my bike!!

    Do you guys know if the 160mm Dual Position will be available in black in the foreseeable future? And if not; I'll definitely consider doing a custom paint job on a white fork if the dual position turns out to be the right choice for me and my riding style.

    Please forgive me for all my questions but which fork do you guys think I should go for considering my style of riding and aesthetic preferences?

    Pike 2014-dsc_1418.jpg

  45. #245
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    Quote Originally Posted by G-AIR View Post
    What are the best tuning options do increase small bump sensitivity without bottoming.
    1) lower PSI, add tokens
    2) lower PSI, less rebound dampening (quicker rebound)
    3) lower PSI, increase LSC
    4) other suggestions

    Currently running 0-2 clicks of LSC
    8-10 clicks in from full out of rebound
    1 token
    22.65% sag
    Any thoughts are appreciated.
    So you bought one huh?

    Forgot to add:

    me: about 215 RTR weight, fork is on a Knolly Endorphin
    70psi, puts me right at 25% sag, maybe 28%, can't quite remember
    rebound is about in the middle, maybe a few clicks to the fast side
    LSC is about 6 clicks out from closed
    two tokens

    It's plush as can be, and I typically have just about 1/2" of travel left after riding my normal trail with a few small jumps and drops. I love this fork.
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  46. #246
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    First I admitted I have a problem. Then I bought the fork.

    It's been great so far, just trying to get it completely dialed. It's a great fork for the Endo. The Revelation wasn't bad and matched very well with the CTD. The Pike just does everything a bit better. The Pike is actually lighter than the revelation I had as well.

    Quote Originally Posted by rscecil007 View Post
    So you bought one huh?

    Forgot to add:

    me: about 215 RTR weight, fork is on a Knolly Endorphin
    70psi, puts me right at 25% sag, maybe 28%, can't quite remember
    rebound is about in the middle, maybe a few clicks to the fast side
    LSC is about 6 clicks out from closed
    two tokens

    It's plush as can be, and I typically have just about 1/2" of travel left after riding my normal trail with a few small jumps and drops. I love this fork.

  47. #247
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    Quote Originally Posted by G-AIR View Post
    First I admitted I have a problem. Then I bought the fork.

    It's been great so far, just trying to get it completely dialed. It's a great fork for the Endo. The Revelation wasn't bad and matched very well with the CTD. The Pike just does everything a bit better. The Pike is actually lighter than the revelation I had as well.
    Very, very nice. I gotta admit, a Warden with a Pike and a XX1 setup is sounding more and more appealing. Seems like it is butter right out of the box. PG has 2 29er versions and they are sweet. Game changing fork for sure. How are they for stiffness? Lyrik worthy or close?
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  48. #248
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    Quote Originally Posted by tiSS'er View Post
    Lyrik worthy or close?
    Yes. Have spent significant time on Revelation and Lyrik forks in the past, swapping out on the same frames, using the same wheel.

    Stiffer than my 20mm axle tapered Revelation - noticably so. Feels no more or less stiff than the straight steerer tubed Lyrik to me. Don't know how it would feel compared to a tapered Lyrik though.

    The 15mm setup is a non-issue on this fork, IMO, unless you also have to spring for new wheel vs. having a hub that can be swapped to 15mm from whatever you've already.

    I don't baby my bikes, but am only about 170-175# RTR, so YMMV. Larger mammals may notice more noodliness in the fork than myself.
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  49. #249
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    Quote Originally Posted by thomasbf View Post
    Hi MTBR

    Here's my first and quite heavy post on the forum - hope you can help me

    I recently bought a used black 2012 Yeti SB-66 alloy with the standard 150mm Fox Float 32 without kashima. So stoked about the bike in general but the fork seems a little flimsy during high speed and rough stuff, and not that sensitive when it comes to small bumps and plushness overall.

    Therefore I'm considering an upgrade to the RS PIKE.

    But I'm in doubt on which model to choose.

    I'm living in flat Denmark and most of my riding is in local forests with a lot of short climbs and descents. My riding style is aggressive cross country moving into all mountain. I like to do drops (currently up to 4 ft) and I'm working on improving my airtime. Occasionally I'll bring the bike to the Alps and serious mountains abroad, but I'll mostly use the bike in more modest topography.

    The obvious choice would be the 150mm solo black version, because it's the "natural" travel length with which my bike was "born". With my current fork I sometimes miss a little extra travel ... whether that's due to the fact that my current fork isn't using all of it's travel or that it's too harsh - I cannot tell. (I'm 88kg in full gear and the fork is set to 75psi, sag is around 30%))

    The second option would be the 160mm solo version also in black. I do not mind a slack geometry on the straights and descents, but I'm concerned that the bike would become too cumbersome while climbing.

    The third option and probably the one I think is the most interesting, is the Dual Position 160mm. Being able to lower the fork 30mm while climbing, sounds very appealing to me, but it has a significant drawback: the fork only comes in white!! which will not match my bike!!

    Do you guys know if the 160mm Dual Position will be available in black in the foreseeable future? And if not; I'll definitely consider doing a custom paint job on a white fork if the dual position turns out to be the right choice for me and my riding style.

    Please forgive me for all my questions but which fork do you guys think I should go for considering my style of riding and aesthetic preferences?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Find out what the recommended A to C on the fork for the frame. A Fox 150mm may not have the A to C as the Pike. That said, I think they are coming in pretty close to the same A to C.

    I've played around with enough forks and frames to have come to the conclusion that going with what is recommended by the frame designer is best.

    A 150mm fork will still climb OK. A 160mm on a bike made for a 150mm not so much. While Dual Position forks function very well with climbing steeps, I find them more trouble than they are worth. Especially with shorter steeper techy climbs. They are also problematic when I forget to change the travel back to full mode and head back down hill.

    A longer travel fork does not automatically make the bike perform better on downhills. That is a huge misconception.

    The Pike... Amazing fork.

  50. #250
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    Quote Originally Posted by Miker J View Post
    Find out what the recommended A to C on the fork for the frame. A Fox 150mm may not have the A to C as the Pike. That said, I think they are coming in pretty close to the same A to C.

    I've played around with enough forks and frames to have come to the conclusion that going with what is recommended by the frame designer is best.

    A 150mm fork will still climb OK. A 160mm on a bike made for a 150mm not so much. While Dual Position forks function very well with climbing steeps, I find them more trouble than they are worth. Especially with shorter steeper techy climbs. They are also problematic when I forget to change the travel back to full mode and head back down hill.

    A longer travel fork does not automatically make the bike perform better on downhills. That is a huge misconception.

    The Pike... Amazing fork.
    Ok, a 150mm fork vs. 160, no, not much difference, in fact, might as well go with the more travel. 10mm isn't going to make much of a difference in climbing, might as well have the extra travel. The pike is also shorter axle-to-crown than the fox 150mm, so one more reason to go with 160.

    In the more general sense:

    Screw the recommended axle to crown, if we're talking about 150 vs 160 and it came with a 150, it's only 10mm. Chances are they didn't design it with the thought that there'll only be that one 150mm fork forever. If we were talking about 20 or more mm different than stock, then yes, we'd need to be more careful and think it through/possibly not do it.

    Yes, you are correct that more travel doesn't always perform better downhill, I've been on enough quality dampers to know, but on the other hand, slightly slacker does handle downhill better, and we're talking about a pike, not a 170mm Jr T or something that would be trying to snap your wrists off.

    How much time do you have with the new dual-position Pike? I'll admit I have zero time with it and that I'm skeptical of air-spring travel adjustments, but that doesn't mean it doesn't work. I used ETA for climbs for something like 6 years and it worked great every time, so it's not automatically bad, depends on how they designed it.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  51. #251
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    From Yeti's website:

    Q: What travel fork is the SB66 designed to use?
    A: The SB66 is designed to run a 150mm or 160mm travel fork. Running a 160mm travel fork gives the bike a slacker head angle and a higher bottom bracket.


    Agree that dual position is more trouble than it's worth -- If like me you want consistent, set and forget it geometry. Dropping the fork lowers the BB which has poor consequences on technical climbs (pedal strike for one).

    The Pike has a slightly taller axle to crown than the fox 34 (or 32) for the same amount of travel like 528 vs. 532mm A2C for 150mm travel. Not significant. I'm sure you would be quite happy with the 150mm Pike.

    I went with the Pike 160mm on my SJ Evo for maximum fun and am very happy I did. I run a bit more sag and plushness, on the 160 than I did with the stock 150mm fork, so not a big difference for me in the overall geometry. I don't notice a penalty climbing. A2C on the 160mm Pike is 542mm. With the included volume reducing tokens (solo air only I believe) and other adjustments you can easily tune the sag, plushness and bottom resistance to suit your needs. A 10 or 12mm difference in A2C height is not really a big deal, especially if you account for increased sag. It will give you a little more plushness and travel to work with on the hits and tech dh though.

    You might check the Yeti forum and see what people say about 160mm forks on the sb-66. I'd do it, but it's your bike. I remember plenty of people running 160mm forks on the old 575's with good results. Some people have said the sb-66 feels too slack with 160mm, but others love it. This was pre-pike though. Depends what you want to emphasize, the bike can go either way.

  52. #252
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    Ok, a 150mm fork vs. 160, no, not much difference, in fact, might as well go with the more travel. 10mm isn't going to make much of a difference in climbing, might as well have the extra travel. The pike is also shorter axle-to-crown than the fox 150mm, so one more reason to go with 160
    The Fox 34 actually has shorter A2C than the Pike unless I am mistaken:

    Fox 34 (26) @ 150mm A2C is 528mm and 160mm is 538mm

    Pike (26) @150mm A2C is 532mm and 160mm is 542mm

  53. #253
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    Quote Originally Posted by tiSS'er View Post
    Very, very nice. I gotta admit, a Warden with a Pike and a XX1 setup is sounding more and more appealing. Seems like it is butter right out of the box. PG has 2 29er versions and they are sweet. Game changing fork for sure. How are they for stiffness? Lyrik worthy or close?
    I would also says it's close or just as stiff as my old Lyrik. It is definitely stiffer and lighter than the 150 Rev I used for a bit that had a straight steer tube and 20mm axle.

    You know, just about every time you say something looks appealing, you eventually end up with whatever it is.
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  54. #254
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    Quote Originally Posted by rscecil007 View Post
    I would also says it's close or just as stiff as my old Lyrik. It is definitely stiffer and lighter than the 150 Rev I used for a bit that had a straight steer tube and 20mm axle.

    You know, just about every time you say something looks appealing, you eventually end up with whatever it is.
    You catch on quickly JK, my stable right now is just so good. I would like to drop some weight on the Endo though. At the same time, a Pike 150 on the Endo sounds so good, adding a bit of versatility to it for our long winter tech rides where the Chili might feel a bit beastly to ride all day. A Warden with a Pike 160 would be a killer one bike solution.
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  55. #255
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    Quote Originally Posted by BushPilot View Post
    The Fox 34 actually has shorter A2C than the Pike unless I am mistaken:

    Fox 34 (26) @ 150mm A2C is 528mm and 160mm is 538mm

    Pike (26) @150mm A2C is 532mm and 160mm is 542mm


    Fox's specs:

    34 mm Forks

    34 mm Forks Axle-to-crown Heights (±5 mm)
    130 mm
    140 mm
    150 mm
    160 mm

    26"
    —
    —
    527.9 mm
    537.9 mm

    27.5"
    —
    —
    544.4 mm
    554.4 mm

    29"
    542.8 mm
    552.8 mm
    562.8 mm
    —
    I was basing it on the 150mm 29er forks, where the fox is taller for a given amount of travel. I have a 160mm version, if you add 10mm to the Fox 29er 34 150, you'd get 573, my pike is 571. Evidently it doesn't apply across the board and only for certain sizes.

    So in reality they are within +- 4mm or so on both sides actually, still, 10mm different travel is almost nothing, slight variances in sag and other factors would be more significant, so if debating what fork to go with on a bike that takes a 150mm fork, it's going to be negligible to go with a 160mm. Now if your rear wheel travel is 140mm or less, it might not be a great idea.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  56. #256
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    Pike 2014

    I'm running a 150 on my RIP 9 and it measures in at 560. My Fox 34 (140) was 554. I removed a 5mm spacer from under my stem when I switched and bam! - 10mm more travel. It climbs great and descends even better.

  57. #257
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    Does anyone else find it odd that one side of the lowers takes 15ml of oil and the other 5? if the lower leg oil is there purely for lubrication seems like they should be the same no? As far as I can tell every other fork takes the same amount in both legs.. Possible typo by Sram?

  58. #258
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    Ok, a 150mm fork vs. 160, no, not much difference, in fact, might as well go with the more travel. 10mm isn't going to make much of a difference in climbing, might as well have the extra travel. The pike is also shorter axle-to-crown than the fox 150mm, so one more reason to go with 160.

    In the more general sense:

    Screw the recommended axle to crown, if we're talking about 150 vs 160 and it came with a 150, it's only 10mm. Chances are they didn't design it with the thought that there'll only be that one 150mm fork forever. If we were talking about 20 or more mm different than stock, then yes, we'd need to be more careful and think it through/possibly not do it.

    Yes, you are correct that more travel doesn't always perform better downhill, I've been on enough quality dampers to know, but on the other hand, slightly slacker does handle downhill better, and we're talking about a pike, not a 170mm Jr T or something that would be trying to snap your wrists off.

    How much time do you have with the new dual-position Pike? I'll admit I have zero time with it and that I'm skeptical of air-spring travel adjustments, but that doesn't mean it doesn't work. I used ETA for climbs for something like 6 years and it worked great every time, so it's not automatically bad, depends on how they designed it.

    No time on the DP Pike. Enough on the Revelation DP. It worked very well, great even. Its just that I never found it performance enhancing enough to justify the fiddling on the fly. Too many times I forgot to turn to darn thing off. You know, when you are about to pass out after a tough climb, then the trail heads straight back down!?!

    Rode a Zoke Z1 for many years with the ETA and used it all the time, but those were different trails. So, I guess deciding on whether or not to get a DP fork, may largely be determined by your trails.

    Travel difference. You are right that a frame may not be designed precisely around an exact A to C fork. But, say the frame designer built it around a 150mm for with a relative short A to C. Then, you go and put a 160mm fork with relatively long A to C compared to other brand forks. It could result in unfavorable handling characteristics that is felt by some.

    Yes, a longer travel fork will slacken the HTA, but it will also raise the BB. I don't like what either of these do bike's ability to carve tight turns.

    This might be splitting hairs. But, if we are debating over "only 10mm" why not just stick with what the designer recommends? Not like that extra 10mm will likely add that much benefit?

    Personally, I've done this quite a few times with different frames and forks. Almost every time I bumped up the fork travel beyond recommended I disliked it. Unfortunately I'm also one of those riders who if you changed a 1/8" spacer under my stem, it would throw me off.

    I'll say it again, the Pike is a great fork. A person will be happy with either travel.

  59. #259
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    150 solo, 160 solo or 160 dual?

    Thanx a lot for all of your input!!

    I guess my anxiety of not having enough travel may originate from the lack of plushness and the fact that my 32 is only using 2/3 to 3/4 of its travel.
    Sounds like the Pike has plenty of plush and is more willing to 'go deep' when pushed hard.

    Thanx for your thoughts on A-C aspects; my 32 is 525mm and the Pike 160 is 542. I think that those 17mm will be noticeable. The guys at Flow Magazine came to the same conclusion; 160mm is too slack, too tall and too fluffy/floppy through the corners - Yeti SB66 Carbon long term test - YouTube

    If I would go for the DP, I would have a lot of fiddling going on; most of the trails I ride are quite short, so after each climb I would have to perform at least 3-5 adjustments before/while going down the other side: gear change, seat post adjust, fork height adjust, compression adjust front and rear … sounds fun?!!
    Good point about steep, techy climbs littered with roots and the fact that a fork adjusted to 130 means low BB clearance and the risk of pedal strikes.

    I think I'll go with 150 solo air

    Additional question:

    Would it be worth spending the extra on a custom setup?

    This dealer will tune the fork to my weight, riding style and terrain:
    RockShox Forks - TF Tuned Shox USD 1.117,-

    The other option is to go with the a big internet dealer, default settings and customizing it myself:
    Rock Shox Pike RCT3 Solo Air 150 15QR Black 26'' - Forks 15 mm axle - PureBike - Parts and accessories mountain biking, road bike, BMX USD 921,-

    What would you choose?

  60. #260
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    I'm not sure what TFT is selling there. There's no "spring" to put in it. The bushings are fine from the factory. It sounds like BS to me. What would possibly be "worth it" would be custom revalving of the high speed compression and rebound shims and possibly using a higher flow piston on each. I don't think they are doing anything like that.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  61. #261
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    I'm not sure what TFT is selling there. There's no "spring" to put in it. The bushings are fine from the factory. It sounds like BS to me. What would possibly be "worth it" would be custom revalving of the high speed compression and rebound shims and possibly using a higher flow piston on each. I don't think they are doing anything like that.
    I'll tell ya what I'd like to see is the adjusto LSC more opened, and the "hardwired" HSC more closed. Rebound seems okay to me, but keep in mind I'm on a wagon-wheel bike

    Jayem, do you have or know where I can find the OE shim stacking for the Pike, in all wheel and travel sizes? I think I'd like to tweak mine a bit. I did that for my Monarch RC3+, and it's a way better riding shock now.
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  62. #262
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    Nope, I've seen a few tech specs/oil volumes/diagrams on this site and RSs, but nothing much.

    I'd actually like to see the opposite, HSC a little less, LSC is fine. I think with the HSC closed off or likely under a heavy shim stack, it's resistant to opening. The only exception to this being super chunky terrain with lots of sharp bumps, I thought it did exceptionally well here.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  63. #263
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    What do you think of my setup?

    I'm about 210 lbs RTR my pike 140 is set at 100psi with one token. Rebound is right in the middle and low speed compression is 3 clicks in. I like the way the fork feels but I wonder if I would benefit from an extra token or two and lowering the pressure? I mostly ride fast rocky terrain with no drops bigger 2' or so. I generally like a more stiff feeling suspension.

    Also, does anyone feel like there's 1/8" (or less) of play at the very beginning of travel? It almost feels as if my headset is loose. Any idea what would cause this?

  64. #264
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    Quote Originally Posted by Streetdoctor View Post
    Also, does anyone feel like there's 1/8" (or less) of play at the very beginning of travel? It almost feels as if my headset is loose. Any idea what would cause this?
    You have bad bushings. Same thing happened to me, mine would actually make a knocking sound. RS is aware of the issue...they replaced my lowers, didn't work...RS told my LBS why that didn't work, but can't recall right now. RS shipped me out a completely new fork two days ago...should have it today. Sucks about the bad bushing, but so far RS willingness to correct the problem, my LBS's CS, and how good the fork feels has won me over...hopefully the new fork's bushings are solid!
    I would contact your local bike shop ASAP....ask for a new fork...replacing lowers did not work for me and took 4 weeks to get back from RS.

    Hope this helps.

    Cheers,
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  65. #265
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    My bushings are loose too, slightly knocking sound coming from mine as well. Def not the headset either. Hoping I can deal with it for a few more weeks of rides before I start dealing with the warranty aspect.
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  66. #266
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    I just got a new pike and Im feeling the same knocking feeling. Really bummed, after all the positive reviews and straight away it goes back to warranty.

    Sram better start checking the quality control

  67. #267
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    I do notice the slop all you guys are referring to when I grab the front brake and rock the bike back and forth but I dont notice it when I am riding. I am starting to think RS maybe have intentionally made it that way so fork slides up/down plusher but may have slightly over done it.
    sth

  68. #268
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    Quote Originally Posted by SingleTrackHound View Post
    I do notice the slop all you guys are referring to when I grab the front brake and rock the bike back and forth but I dont notice it when I am riding. I am starting to think RS maybe have intentionally made it that way so fork slides up/down plusher but may have slightly over done it.
    Mine is/was the same way...loved the way it felt on the trail, but when stationary I could hear the knocking. Told my bike shop, they specifically asked RS if this was normal/intended. RS said "NO" and sent me a new fork ASAP. Suspension Experts also noted this is not intended/normal. Obviously this is second hand info being relaying thru the LBS to RS and back to me...guess I'll find out real soon.

    rscecil007, I would contact your shop now, get the issue documented with RS on their system, push for a new fork, and at a bare minimum new lowers. Most likely you'll be able to ride your current one until the new one arrives.

    Will keep you posted.

    Cheers,
    "I Like the Cut of His Jib"

  69. #269
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    Keeps us posted.

    Is there anyone who had the same sloppy bushing on Pike that got warrantied and fixed/replaced without the sloppyness? It would suck to send the fork out to repair and get it back in same exact condition.
    sth

  70. #270
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    Can someone make a video of this knocking?
    Bend, Oregon

  71. #271
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    Will do, yeah it happened to me. Sent mine into RS, 4 weeks later get it back with new lowers...started knocking again after 2 hours of riding. Have to give my LBS credit, they called/emailed RS, asked the questions and will have a new fork within 10 days of them taking action.

    Have fingures crossed, love the forks overall performance, hope the issue will be resolve.

    Cheers,
    "I Like the Cut of His Jib"

  72. #272
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    My case I dont hear knock. Just feel sloppy play when I rock the bike back and forth with front brake on. Fork feels stiff and stout when riding.
    sth

  73. #273
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    Quote Originally Posted by SingleTrackHound View Post
    My case I dont hear knock. Just feel sloppy play when I rock the bike back and forth with front brake on. Fork feels stiff and stout when riding.
    Some manufactures, i.e. BOS, have a tiny amount of bushing play deliberately in the design...but it is so minimal that you can barely notice it. Other manufactures, i.e. X-Fusion, there is no play at all. If there is ANY excessive play take it to a LBS you trust, have them look at it and call RS. My Pike started out with just sloppy play but then evolved into knocking...so every slightly.
    A couple of ways I found I could detect the knocking is to place the fork in the "lockout" mode, depress the front brake and rock back and forth or I grab the uppers just above the wiper...hold it firm and place my thumb on top of the arch to prevent any travel...depress the front brake and rock back and forth. If I do that there will be sloppy movement and start knocking immediately.

    Don't mean to cause any unnecessary worry, but we all paid a hefty sum for these forks...they should work correctly.

    Sorry for rambling...just my 2 Cents.

    Cheers,
    "I Like the Cut of His Jib"

  74. #274
    on my 3rd wind...
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    I own enough other forks to know that this Pike has the worst sloppy feel. Your concern is legit and I am following thread so when knocking sounds does appear on my Pike, I know it's time for warranty. Right now I can live with it since riding season hasnt ended.
    sth

  75. #275
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    Has anyone cone from an X-fusion vengeance hlr to a pike? If so how do they compare?
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  76. #276
    on my 3rd wind...
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    I did and it was over 1lbs heavier. Pike to Vengeance is not an apple to apple comparison, Lyrik is. Plush but neg coil spring made an annoying clicking sound that even X-fusion couldnt fix so I returned it for refund.
    sth

  77. #277
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    I spent half a season on the Vengeance Air HLR. Its a good damper for heavy riders but for light riders say under 180lbs it has very harsh high speed comp. circuit and the lowers will regularly build up air that you have to bleed out through the main seals. Not to mention the constant creak from the steertube. I run a 27.5 Pike with 26" wheels and wont be changing. I have not noticed any stiffness difference at all between the two but you will definitely feel the weight and composure of the Pike

  78. #278
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    Back to the bushing/knocking issue...
    Interesting... I've got about 300 miles on mine (140mm 29 Solo), and don't have this issue at all.
    Agree with everyone that we should all be diligent about this issue because it's not acceptable. But, for what it's worth, it's not happening with all of them (e.g mine).

  79. #279
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    Quote Originally Posted by addATX View Post
    Back to the bushing/knocking issue...
    Interesting... I've got about 300 miles on mine (140mm 29 Solo), and don't have this issue at all.
    Agree with everyone that we should all be diligent about this issue because it's not acceptable. But, for what it's worth, it's not happening with all of them (e.g mine).
    Hey man, glad to hear you are having no issues. I have a 26" @ 160mm, maybe its isolated to that format. And it gives me confidence that it can be corrected. Love the overall performance of the fork.
    I should know soon, will keep you posted.

    Cheers,
    "I Like the Cut of His Jib"

  80. #280
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    You guys that feel a knocking, when grabbing the front brake, do know that the front brake pads can clunk back-and-forth slightly in the caliper right? I'd bet it's hard to tell the difference. Might try the same thing just grabbing the lowers at the axle, instead of using the front brake.
    Bend, Oregon

  81. #281
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    Quote Originally Posted by thuren View Post
    You guys that feel a knocking, when grabbing the front brake, do know that the front brake pads can clunk back-and-forth slightly in the caliper right? I'd bet it's hard to tell the difference. Might try the same thing just grabbing the lowers at the axle, instead of using the front brake.
    Good point, I have not grabbed the axle, but have put a BOS Deville and X-Fusion Vengeance on the same frame with the same brakes...no sloppy movement and knocking with either forks. I also moved the Pike to a different frame with different brakes...same knocking...but I'll check the axle...yup just checked can feel the play and hear the knocking...just not as loud. Oh, feel much better...not really.

    Cheers,
    "I Like the Cut of His Jib"

  82. #282
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    Quote Originally Posted by thuren View Post
    You guys that feel a knocking, when grabbing the front brake, do know that the front brake pads can clunk back-and-forth slightly in the caliper right? I'd bet it's hard to tell the difference. Might try the same thing just grabbing the lowers at the axle, instead of using the front brake.
    I get the top out clunk with just lifting my front wheel off the ground. The first 5-10mm if travel has no compression and the lowers drop to a clunk at top out.

    This was from straight out of the box, so hopefully if yours are riding fine you should have no worries.

    Also on 160mm 26"

  83. #283
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    There is a self adjusting negative spring (I can tell) and my pike sags about 2mm by itself.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  84. #284
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    It looks like my Pike has the knocking issue as well and will need to be warrantied. My fork was purchased online, but I assume my LBS could take care of the warranty. Hopefully I'll get sent a new fork and the waiting period will be minimal.

  85. #285
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    competitive cyclist spoke with a sram tech and supposed its an issue with the first 150 or so forks produced. My new fork will be here monday and they knocked $100 off.

  86. #286
    on my 3rd wind...
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    My Pike went out to RS for creaky crown warranty. It creaked for two months I owned it. I thought it was crappy headset the whole time or suspension pivot from my frame. Oh, well, will see how quickly I get my fork back from RS.

    Far as I can tell it creaked from day 1. When I first noticed it I totally disregarded the Pike as the culprit.
    sth

  87. #287
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    Update,
    RS sent a new Pike to my LBS. RS did not have a 26" 160mm on hand, they offered a 150mm with a 160mm air spring kit. LBS will swap out the air spring to adjust travel. The swap this a simple process...so I'm happy with RS and LBS's efforts to correct. Should have a ride on it by Wednesday. Will keep you posted.

    Cheers,
    "I Like the Cut of His Jib"

  88. #288
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    Quote Originally Posted by jjkitt View Post
    Update,
    RS sent a new Pike to my LBS. RS did not have a 26" 160mm on hand, they offered a 150mm with a 160mm air spring kit. LBS will swap out the air spring to adjust travel. The swap this a simple process...so I'm happy with RS and LBS's efforts to correct. Should have a ride on it by Wednesday. Will keep you posted.

    Cheers,
    You should try and keep the 150 spring kit as well!
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
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  89. #289
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    Tech help needed....

    Today the RCT3 knob worked its way loose on a ride. It started to rattle and I couldn't dial in the compression settings.

    Took the compression knobs off. Pretty simple.

    I'd like to know if I'm missing any parts. Also if during reassembly where does SRAM recommend loctite and/or grease?

    I can't find the service manual for dealing with the compression damper. Anyone know who can give me a link.

    In order of disassembly:

    1. Tiny hex head screw holding on the LSC knob.

    2. Proprietary, threaded, nut-like black part. About the diameter of a penny, that screws down/within the main/large compression knob. It secures the main adjustment knob to the damper.

    3. Main/large compression knob. Appears to sit directly on top of a knurled/jagged circular rim of metal that when turned adjusts the main modes: Open, Trail, Descend. Seems that it is only the friction between the jagged surface of this part and the main knob is what allows it to be adjusted. I was wondering if there is perhaps a part that should be between the two? Something like a thin plastic washer or O-ring. Seems like an unusual interface.

    Finally during reassembly it seems like there is no special way to replace the main knob except that you should likely install it with the main adjustment full counterclockwise to Open.

    Seems like when I put it back together the Trail settings seem much stiffer than before. That is highly subjective and likely my imagination.

    Thoughts?

  90. #290
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    Pike 2014-image.jpgPike 2014-image.jpgClick image for larger version. 

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  91. #291
    moaaar shimz
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    This should help!


  92. #292
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    Quote Originally Posted by tacubaya View Post
    This should help!
    Tacubaya,
    You wouldn't happen to have a shim stacking of the fork would you? I think I want to open up the super low speed compression and choke down on the mid-stroke a bit.
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
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  93. #293
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    Quote Originally Posted by tacubaya View Post
    This should help!

    Perfect. Thanks. Main knob appears to rest directly on the knurled surface.

    I too think the LSC is too agressive in trail mode and would like it backed off.

    Does the LSC adjustment have any effect when in Open mode?

  94. #294
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    Quote Originally Posted by Miker J View Post
    Perfect. Thanks. Main knob appears to rest directly on the knurled surface.

    I too think the LSC is too agressive in trail mode and would like it backed off.

    Does the LSC adjustment have any effect when in Open mode?
    Common misconception: the LSC adjust is designed primarily to be used in open mode. It's a different philosophy than CTD. The whole point of the "pedal" or middle mode of the RCT3 is aggressive LSC. We hashed this out a while back in some other thread.

    I personally don't ever use anything other than open on my Pike (of the three). I tweak the LSC as needed.

  95. #295
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    Got my replacement Pike today. Should have it on and a short test ride tomorrow.

  96. #296
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    Pike 2014

    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    There is a self adjusting negative spring (I can tell) and my pike sags about 2mm by itself.
    Jayem, is this a good thing or bad thing? I've never had a fork do this before. I'm a bit confused as to whether this is a symptom or not of the bushing issues that others are having. I don't hear a knock when I ride, but I haven't done any tests on the bushings either. Seems odd to me that the first 5mm or so has no damping at all. I'm on a 29er 160mm travel pike.

  97. #297
    moaaar shimz
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    Tacubaya,
    You wouldn't happen to have a shim stacking of the fork would you? I think I want to open up the super low speed compression and choke down on the mid-stroke a bit.
    I don't, sorry.

  98. #298
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    I too have noticed the clunking in my fork (26" 160mm solo) It was great for the first few days and then noticed when riding that I was feeling a knocking through the handlebar.
    Isolated it down to the fork and it is driving me nuts because I can hear it and feel it when riding. I hope to hell this doesn't turn out to the Rockshox version of the Fox-creaky-crown problems that I had two of my old fox forks.
    Those of you who have sent it back, did you get an RA from SRAM or from your BS/Online retailer? I bought mine through Universal cycles.

  99. #299
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    Quote Originally Posted by hillharman View Post
    Common misconception: the LSC adjust is designed primarily to be used in open mode. It's a different philosophy than CTD. The whole point of the "pedal" or middle mode of the RCT3 is aggressive LSC. We hashed this out a while back in some other thread.

    I personally don't ever use anything other than open on my Pike (of the three). I tweak the LSC as needed.
    Sorry for my failure to grasp what you are saying regarding the LSC adjustment.

    So, does the LSC knob adjust compression settings when the fork is in Open/Descend setting? I think not.

  100. #300
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    Quote Originally Posted by Miker J View Post
    Sorry for my failure to grasp what you are saying regarding the LSC adjustment.

    So, does the LSC knob adjust compression settings when the fork is in Open/Descend setting? I think not.
    It definitely does. Quote from Rock Shox on Pike page regarding RCT3: "RCT3 features Open with an adjustable low speed compression, Pedal and Lock." Note comma location. I've also confirmed it with SRAM reps. I wish I could remember the thread in which several of us spent about 3 pages hashing this out, but this is always how the RCT3 controls have worked. I couldn't tell you if the LSC control works in the "Pedal" (middle) setting or not, but that's not it's intended purpose. Too little damper oil would sometimes cause LSC knob weirdness in the non-Charger dampers, but given that this is a sealed system, it's probably less likely to be an issue.

    Source of quote: Charger Damper | Rockshox | SRAM

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