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  1. #1
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    Pick one!!! ROCK SHOX DART 3 or FOX TALAS RL or ROCK SHOX SEKTOR???

    So I have 3 different forks!!! I want you guys to decide for me!! Which fork would you choose for all around riding?!?
    1. ROCK SHOX DART 3 (brand new)
    2. ROCK SHOX SEKTOR (brand new)
    3. FOX TALAS RL (beat to ****! Still functional)

    And I'm guessing there's gonna be at least a half dozen people that are gonna want to know specifics about my riding style, ability, bike set-up... So here's a quick run down.

    frame----------full carbon w/ carbon swing arm, fox triad rear shock
    components---shimano XTR, XT, LX, and juicy7 brakes
    Me--------------30 Y.O. Male tattoo artist who's just barely getting back ......................into riding
    ......................after a 15 yr break from Mtn. bikes due to sport bike ......................racing, pretty daring, pretty balsy, loves to build and own ......................cool ****, knows his ability will never match bike.

  2. #2
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    ANYONE?? Beuller? Beuller? Beuller?

  3. #3
    Nerdy Jock
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    My vote is Sektor.

    Normally I'd say TALAS, but I don't really know what you mean by beat to ****.
    Current bike: Rocky Mountain ETS-X 70

  4. #4
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    I would choose a new fork over a second hand fork. Unless I knew the history of the second hand fork and that it had been freshly serviced.

    The Sektor is a "better" fork than the Dart. The two forks are for two different types of bikes. Either fork may be more suitable for your frame.
    Duct tape iz like teh Force. It has a Lite side and a Dark side and it holdz the Universe together.

  5. #5
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    A little more background, the fox talas RL and the DART3 will bolt right up, the SEKTOR has a 1 1/2-1 1-8 tapered steer tube, I'm a machinist by night with full access to machining tools ie: CNC lathe, Mill, TIG welder, tubing benders, English wheel, yoder, pretty much anything I need to change the molecular arraignment if metal so building a new steer tube is not that big of a deal, it's just more work.... But I will do it if the fork is that much better, that would justify the work....

  6. #6
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    You have a high end frame, with apparently some top of the line components and you're considering putting a dart on it?...

    color me a little skeptical how you came to be in possession of this bike; every one of the forks you mention retails for less than an xtr shifter, or any middle of the road brakeset. A single tire [or the quality I'd expect to see on a bike like that] is worth more than a dart.

  7. #7
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    I'm a professional tattoo artist by day and a free lance one off custom machinist at night, your skepticism is understandable, but I get most everything I have that's expensive thru trade work, I.e.: guns, bikes, watches, plane tickets... Bike parts..... One of he bonuses of being a tattoo artist and a custom painter and a decent machinist I suppose, I suggest trade work to everyone I know, and they put the word out as well... So it works out amazing for a guy like me who had way more time, talent, and ability than I do money

  8. #8
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    Oh, and BTW... I've been out of mountain biking for 15 years, so I'm very unfamiliar with particular models these days... Only one that hasn't changed is the good old godly XTR.... Rock Shox Judy SL was the cats pajamas when I quit riding.... Trek Y-33 was the bike that I'd have given up a testicle and my first born for.... So I'm still trying to get back up to speed and catch up with the I credible advances made since ice been gone...

  9. #9
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    Of the 3, the Sektor could be the best option, but it would depend on whether it is the RL model. And like Mitzikatzi mentioned, a Dart fork usually has at most 100mm of travel, whereas the Sektor forks often come with 140-150mm, so either may not be a very good match for the frame. If the frame was designed to take a short travel fork, then the sektor will make the steering sluggish and will raise the bottom bracket height.

    Also, even if you are very proficient in machining, I really wouldn't recommend trying to alter the steerer tube from tapered to straight, just from a safety point of view. Even one mistake could result in a very unsafe steerer tube/crown assembly. You are only just getting back into riding and we wouldn't want your stay to be a short one!

    Agree with you on the Judy SL and Y-33, both very drool worthy back in the mid '90s.
    I don't crash, I just have slightly uncontrolled dismounts!

  10. #10
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    @kiwiplague... It's the Sektor R model, an I wasn't talking about attempting to machine the existing steer tube, I meant I was going to build a new steertube the right diameter and thank you!! I'd definitely love to stay and play with you all!!! so pretty much you've ruled out on my Fox Talas RL?? You'd choose the Sektor?

  11. #11
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    What exactly does beat to **** mean in this instance? Are the stanchions clean and scratch free? does it still travel smooth?

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tattootimmy View Post
    I'm a professional tattoo artist by day and a free lance one off custom machinist at night, your skepticism is understandable, but I get most everything I have that's expensive thru trade work, I.e.: guns, bikes, watches, plane tickets... Bike parts..... One of he bonuses of being a tattoo artist and a custom painter and a decent machinist I suppose, I suggest trade work to everyone I know, and they put the word out as well... So it works out amazing for a guy like me who had way more time, talent, and ability than I do money

    That totally makes sense... I guess I'm flashing back to craigslist ads with bikes with part combinations that don't make any sense (because they came from a bike chop shop, and the guys re-assembling the bikes to something that doesn't match the description of a reported stolen bike don't know anything about them).

    1: the dart is a step up from wal mart.
    2: I'd rule out the Fox based on what you said about it's condition. A low end working fork beats the most expensive [at least when it was new] broken fork.
    3: one thing that has changed a lot in the last 15 years is there is no single hierarchy for forks. Back then pretty much everything was XC racing and different forks were basically just different grades of XC race forks. These days there are high-end forks in many, many catagories; travel, wheel size... It doesn't make sense to say a SID is "better" than a Revelation, the sid is an XC fork, the Rev has 50mm more travel.
    So to really answer your question, we'd need to know what you need. The Sektor is the "best" but if your bike needs a 100mm or 200mm fork, it's probably no use to you, and I'd keep looking (ruling out the others for the reasons above).

    Re making a new steerer... I have no doubt you could make a steerer, but I know I'd always be concerned about the integrity of the crown and the crown/steerer interface after you pressed out the old one and pressed in your new one.

  13. #13
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    I have a dart 3 on a Diamondback Overdrive 29er that I bought as a backup/commuter bike, I would not recommend this fork to anyone. It felt just ok when it was new, but after not much time at all it felt like it needed major maintenance. Did required maintenance and still felt horrible. When riding in cold weather, below 45 degrees, it feels completely stiff and unresponsive, although it doesn't feel much better when it warms up. I have a hard time getting any kind of travel out of it now and am ready to toss it in the garbage.

    Buy a better fork, either of the other two choices would work.

  14. #14
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    Thanks guys, I have all three, the fox is on my bike now, an aside from cosmetics it's a fully functioning tight fork, it's just been down a bunch of times before I got a hold of it, the SEKTOR R is looking like its the best fit... My rear shock is also a fox, don't think that it matters if the brands match, but I can't get the lockout to work on it, I pulled the lockout rod out and the cam looks like its wore out... So I'll replace that

  15. #15
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    You need to fit a fork that matches the geometry of your frame. If the frame was designed for a 80mm travel fork then you need to fit a 80 to 100mm fork.

    If your frame is a XC type frame then you can fit a "lighter" fork. If the Frame is AM or downhill then you need a stronger type fork.

    Just what type of frame do you have?
    Duct tape iz like teh Force. It has a Lite side and a Dark side and it holdz the Universe together.

  16. #16
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    @Mitzikatzi---/My frame is a Trigon Y style fully suspended carbon main and swing arm, it's not some crazy long travel DH frame, but I'm a firm believer in the more travel the better, dont you agree??

  17. #17
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    Longer is not always better IMHO

    Too long a fork puts extra stress on the head tube which can lead to frame failure.

    Long forks turn a bike into a "chopper" they don't go around corners.

    Too long a fork and the front wheel will flop from side to side on turns.

    Forks should be +/- 20mm from what they were designed for originally.
    Duct tape iz like teh Force. It has a Lite side and a Dark side and it holdz the Universe together.

  18. #18
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    Bu god you're right, I've built motorcycles and for some stupid reason I guess I never thought to apply motorcycle rules and regs to bicycles. Pretty obvious, thank you man, you're a ton of help

  19. #19
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    am i the only on that caught the fact the frame is "full carbon"???
    i know my way around the shop and could make a new head tube, cut off the old head tube, and weld on a new head tube, to an ALUMINUM frame, but this really isnt an option with a "FULL CARBON" frame. maybe, although a long shot, MAYBE somebody like Calfe could accomplish such a task, but i wouldnt try it in my own shop unless you are proficient with carbon as well.
    if you really wanted to use the sektor you could probably source new uppers with the proper steer tube to fit your frame.
    otherwise, if the fox functions properly, the stanchions are clean, give the lowers a new paint job, fill in deep scratches if needed.
    Juice

  20. #20
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    If the stanchions are in good shape, I would buy a float cartridge, throw the talas cart in the trash, and replace the damper fluid and seals.

  21. #21
    I wonder why?
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    I'd keep the Fox and send it to PUSH: it will cost about $200 for a rebuild or $280 for a rebuild an conversion to Float. In either case you'd have a like new functioning fork that works better than when it was new.

    i1dry?
    ...some drink from the fountain of knowledge..some only gargle...!!

  22. #22
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    maybe post a picture of your frame... no one can tell you anything for sure unless we know what kind of frame youve got. 'Trigon Y full suspension bike' doesnt really tell us much about the bike or the kind of fork that you can put on there. if possible, also post pics of the Fox too. if the uppers dont have a bunch of scratches on em, and its not leaking oil, and its not too old, and has been serviced with some kind of regularity, it could be your best choice....

  23. #23
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    I'd vote Sektor. You can always reduce the travel to match your bike and with an upper swap it'll fit anything. My Sektor RL is butter smooth and feels better than most of the Fox 32s I've demoed, just has a simpler damper.

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