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  1. #301
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    When you unscrew the schrader valve there should be no force required to bottom out fork. When it is you can make zip trick.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=blHaC1mMiWM

  2. #302
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    Quote Originally Posted by nikon255 View Post
    Guys,
    I would like to soften Sweep RL2 in the open mode cuz its little bit harsh and have trail mode in locked position. Moreover I would like avoid diving as much as possible. Is this option reached by mid-valve stack changed to 10,5,8,5,5,5 and high speed stack change to two-one sequence called "between lock and open"
    18x0.2,
    (2) 18x0.15,
    18x0.3,
    16x0.15,
    ring,
    center shim,
    (2) 18x0.15,
    (4) 12x0.15

    or better will be cobym2 sequence called "slighly firmer than fully open":

    18x0.2,
    18x0.15
    18x0.3
    16x0.15
    ring
    center shim
    (3) 18x0.15
    (4) 12x0.15
    cobym2's stack is focussed on stack preload, while my stack is centered around more shims with less preload. I think that my stack is more usable for freeriding, while cobym2's stack is focussed on technical riding with slower sections.
    If you hate brake dive, you might want to keep the lowspeed stack stock, to provide the support that you will lose by lowering the highspeeds stacks preload.

  3. #303
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    Quote Originally Posted by nikon255 View Post
    When you unscrew the schrader valve there should be no force required to bottom out fork. When it is you can make zip trick.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=blHaC1mMiWM
    Thanks for the video, I'll try again when i get home from work tonight.

    As far as redoing the mid-valve shim stack how much oil is lost if this is the only thing I take out of the fork? Has anyone that weighs in the 160 pound range tried stacking the shims 8mm-5mm-10mm-5mm-5mm-5mm for a softer ride?

  4. #304
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    Someone commented a few pages back that using anything other than the 10mm to cover the ports would be basically the same as removing all the shims.

    Going Ports, 10mm, 5mm, 5mm, 8mm, 5mm, 5mm would be very soft but might result in the 10mm shim failing as it would be flexing a lot.

  5. #305
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    Quote Originally Posted by two-one View Post
    cobym2's stack is focussed on stack preload, while my stack is centered around more shims with less preload. I think that my stack is more usable for freeriding, while cobym2's stack is focussed on technical riding with slower sections.
    If you hate brake dive, you might want to keep the lowspeed stack stock, to provide the support that you will lose by lowering the highspeeds stacks preload.
    So good option for me is to leave stock low speed shimstack and change sequence of high speed shim stack to your proposition? How will it affect to open mode of RL2 cartridge?

    Is it possible to soften "the lock" mode of RL2 without changing "the open" mode characteristic of fork?

  6. #306
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    Well...after MONTHS of perfect operation out of my Slant RL2...I'm missing full travel and I have an infrequent clunk sound. Probably 1-2 inches of travel I cannot achieve.

    Going to gut everything tonight and see what it is...hopefully just need to replace some seals on the damper and all will be well. Seems like the few others with this issue fixed it with a damper rebuild.
    X-prezo Super-D, 26in style.

  7. #307
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    Quote Originally Posted by y0bailey View Post
    Well...after MONTHS of perfect operation out of my Slant RL2...I'm missing full travel and I have an infrequent clunk sound. Probably 1-2 inches of travel I cannot achieve.

    Going to gut everything tonight and see what it is...hopefully just need to replace some seals on the damper and all will be well. Seems like the few others with this issue fixed it with a damper rebuild.
    Well I gutted it tonight and somehow my upper half of the damper separated from the lower half of the damper. YIKES. Luckily everything appears unharmed (shims were loose but in good shape...not sure how!) and I've strapped it back together. So far so good.
    X-prezo Super-D, 26in style.

  8. #308
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    I heard its good to use blue thread locker in damper to be sure it wont unscrew itselfs :P

  9. #309
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    I rode some stuff with steeper g-out style bits today (Boulderdash and the steep exit from Dragon's Tail @ Rotorua) and realised how much I relied on the low-speed support.

    I have added a 5mm shim between the 10mm and 8mm and replaced the damper fluid with Rock Oil 2.5 (10 cst @ 40 deg) and it's too divey.

    Going to revert the shim changes and try to find a tool to access the high speed stack instead.

  10. #310
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  11. #311
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    I contacted X-Fusion regarding oil volumes and specifications for my Slide and they recommended Torco RSF Light 7.5W. From research, looks like this oil is closer to 5W than 7.5W. Thoughts? I can't find 7.5W on that brand. Also, I found this https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...n8UByEpSLHgsRg This document actually recommends Torco Medium which is closer to 10W. I'm confused.....

  12. #312
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ricanfred View Post
    I contacted X-Fusion regarding oil volumes and specifications for my Slide and they recommended Torco RSF Light 7.5W. From research, looks like this oil is closer to 5W than 7.5W. Thoughts? I can't find 7.5W on that brand. Also, I found this https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...n8UByEpSLHgsRg This document actually recommends Torco Medium which is closer to 10W. I'm confused.....
    You can't go by W values on oil. Its not consistent between brands and oil types.
    I've used Torco RSF light and it works well.

  13. #313
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    Quote Originally Posted by ac1000 View Post
    You can't go by W values on oil. Its not consistent between brands and oil types.
    I've used Torco RSF light and it works well.
    Appreciate the response. I know what you're saying. My confusion comes from X-Fusion telling me to use 7.5W specifically from Torco's RSF Light brand. Looks like Torco doesn't manufacture/market that product as 7.5W and specs from MSDS state a weight closer to 5.

  14. #314
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    Rough cut upgrade, has anyone done it yet. Anyone checked on the price ?

  15. #315
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    Yes, I had my RL2 damper replaced with a Roughcut HLR damper by my local bike suspension specialist (Homein the Netherlands).
    To be honest: I don't think it is a dramatic improvement, but I 'm not the most sensitive biker when it comes to subtle suspension changes.
    To me the advantage of the RL2 damper is the presence of a lock-out switch which can not be found on the Roughcut HLR damper, I often run that switch halfway, creating a nice middle firm position.

  16. #316
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    I've replaced my RL2 with the Roughcut HLR cartridge. They're $200 direct from XF, and in stock as of a month ago. Replacement is super easy, as you'd expect. Might as well get new dust wipers and air spring o-rings while you're at it and do a full service. XF also has a new Pure Slick Fluid, for the foam rings, lowers, air piston, etc. which is basically their version of Float Fluid. Hopefully that will spread out my drop-lowers-and-slick-honey intervals.

    I've only put a couple of snow rides on it so far, so I can't comment on actual performance yet. It feels supple indoors, meaning pretty much nothing. It'll be still a few weeks before winter starts lifting (northeast US) and I can play with it on real dirt.

  17. #317
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    Quote Originally Posted by lazarus2405 View Post
    I've replaced my RL2 with the Roughcut HLR cartridge. They're $200 direct from XF, and in stock as of a month ago.
    Wow, thats good news. They quoted me $300 back in October, and said they wont be in stock until April or May, which I guess is right around the corner, so they werent off by much. But great to hear theyre a bit cheaper than expected. Might actually consider it now.

  18. #318
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    I wonder, was $300 you were quoted for the part itself, or for them to also perform the damper swap and lowers service? My $200 was just for the damper cartridge, plus a few bucks shipping.

    If someone's made it this far through this particular thread, there's no reason they couldn't do it themselves.

  19. #319
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    Just the damper itself, not including shipping. Maybe it was a simple typo. Maybe they decided to lower the pricing. Who knows.

  20. #320
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    I was told 200 or so for the damper, and 300 total for them to install it (and do a full service). they said I couldnt do it at home as special tools are needed. is that really true? Lazarus, you did it yourself right? special tools necessary? Besides the ones i already have to take apart the current damper?
    Last edited by dwyooaj; 03-02-2016 at 05:15 PM.
    '14 rocky mountain altitude, rally edition
    '11 transition blindside, 650b converted

  21. #321
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    I haven't cracked mine open yet, but isn't that *exactly* what this whole thread is about? Pulling the damper out, tuning it, and popping it back in? I think you only need the large flat wrench or ground down socket, a spanner wrench, and something to safely pound out the bottom bolts. But like I said, I haven't been in there yet.

  22. #322
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    of course, but I dont know anything about the new damper and just curious as to why xfusion said i would need "special tools".
    '14 rocky mountain altitude, rally edition
    '11 transition blindside, 650b converted

  23. #323
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwyooaj View Post
    Lazarus, you did it yourself right? special tools necessary?

    The usual stuff: You need a 1.5mm hex to remove the RL2 adjuster knobs, 2mm hex to install the RC HLR knobs, 12mm socket (I think? Might have been 13mm) for the foot nut, 28mm socket (ground down, 6-point) for the top caps, softblow hammer to unseat the bottom, torque wrench for said sockets to put it back together, and lube oil for the lowers.

    There are two special bits, though.

    First, XF will sell you an inexpensive (don't remember exactly, but just a few bucks) "RL2 damper tool". It's a small bit of aluminum with internal threads on one end and a 5mm hex socket on the other. It threads on the same threads as the locknut to pull the end of the damper shaft into the lowers and seat it. You want this to keep from stripping threads when you try to put the locknut back on, instead of having to hack something together like you see in the first few pages of this thread. Also use it when you unseat the old RL2 damper, to protect the rebound shaft when you hit it with a mallet.

    The second, there's an odd nut that threads in the top under the LSC knob and holds the HSC knob in place. It accepts an 8mm hex, but the top of the LSC adjuster rod is in the way - you'd need a special hollowed out 8mm to engage it. (It might be the same exact tool XF uses to install/remove the compression circuits on the Vector, which they will not sell you.)

    I snugged mine up using external snap ring pliers, engaging the pins into the corners. A sufficiently small pin spanner should work too. Or, worst case, you can't get it snugged and your HSC knob rattles a little, but it won't pop off unless the LSC knob does first.

    official xfusion rl2 fork service and tuning thread-img_20160302_174831470.jpg
    Here's a picture of the bits. Clockwise from top left: RL2 damper tool, LSC knob, HSC knob, and the HSC knob nut.


    official xfusion rl2 fork service and tuning thread-img_20160302_174923321.jpg
    This is how it fits on the top cap. HSC knob, then the nut with the threads down, then the LSC knob screws into the rod in the center.

    And remember, 130 in-lbs/15 N-m on the top caps, 61 in-lbs/6.8 N-m on the foot nuts. All the torque specs are here: http://www.xfusionshox.com/images/se...que_chart.xlsx

  24. #324
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    Thanks! Yeah I already have all those tools (as I am the one who started this thread). I can deal with the HSC nut. Is oil added the same way as the rl2, or is it a completely sealed damper?
    '14 rocky mountain altitude, rally edition
    '11 transition blindside, 650b converted

  25. #325
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    Lazarus, did you buy it directly from xfusion? when i asked them about it it sure seemed like they didnt want to sell it to me on its own but wanted me to send the fork in instead.
    '14 rocky mountain altitude, rally edition
    '11 transition blindside, 650b converted

  26. #326
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    Whoops, I didn't even realize you were the OP. Sorry if I came off little patronizing.

    The cartridge is completely sealed and ships pre-bled. You only need to add lube oil in the bottoms.

    I did get mine direct from then - I'm surprised they don't want to sell you a damper. I think X-Fusion's reluctance might be that they don't want his damper getting used in forks with old/dry/worn seals. Reputation is a big deal, and the Roughcut will probably be their top of the line for several years. Hence them really wanting to do a service too, to make sure it feels like it really should, I guess.

    Maybe it will help if you're getting dust wipers and the air spring seals at the same time. That's what I did when I ordered, but only because all the seals and o-rings in my fork was two years old with probably 250 hours of moving time.

    Or maybe they don't want to sell it to the average rider who doesn't normally work on suspension ... But then why mention retrofit dampers with the RC announcement last year? I mean, the kind of rider who knows enough to want to swap a damper probably can drop their own lowers... Maybe make it clear what your level of expertise is?

    Hope that helps.

  27. #327
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    Yeah, when i order it ill make that clear. I was just asking them about avilability at the time. I think I will order new seals at the same time, its about time to do that. Thanks for all the info.
    '14 rocky mountain altitude, rally edition
    '11 transition blindside, 650b converted

  28. #328
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    this should deal with the hsc knob nut : 6pc Hex Tamper Proof L-Key Set, 2.5-8mm, Bondhus 48386 if the hole is too small it can easily be drilled bigger, much easier than drilling a centered hole in a plain hex key.
    '14 rocky mountain altitude, rally edition
    '11 transition blindside, 650b converted

  29. #329
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwyooaj View Post
    this should deal with the hsc knob nut : 6pc Hex Tamper Proof L-Key Set, 2.5-8mm, Bondhus 48386 if the hole is too small it can easily be drilled bigger, much easier than drilling a centered hole in a plain hex key.
    What I did was just that:
    I took a lower quality 8 mm hex key that I hackneyed (?) off (let's say 25 mm length).
    Than I put it in a lathe and drilled a 5,5 mm diameter hole in it (about 6 mm deep).
    This home made toolbit works brilliantly!

    I hope you understand my Denglish (Dutch-English)

  30. #330
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    i dont have a lathe
    '14 rocky mountain altitude, rally edition
    '11 transition blindside, 650b converted

  31. #331
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    Subscribed.

    PS. Happy owner of a Trace DLA RL2!

  32. #332
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    Or, take a piece of crappy thinwalled aluminum 5/16" pipe and bend/hammer the circumference of one end into a hexagon, should be the right size
    '14 rocky mountain altitude, rally edition
    '11 transition blindside, 650b converted

  33. #333
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    I picked up a RL2 fork that had about 90 miles on it and was leaking from the lower nuts. I opened it up to confirm it was new and the oil from the cartridge was new. Bottom line is I only wanted the thru-axle lowers and am now wanting to sell the rest with my QR lowers. $90 shipped in the USA. Basically you can have brand new stancions and seals with new damper to either replace what you have, or to experiment with. Only think missing is the rebound knob screw (sorry mine was getting worn after 5 rebuilds).

    The only reason I did not keep the guts on this is that I rebuilt my shim stack and it still works flawlessly after 3500 miles. The QR lowers I can include are in decent shape with time serts used on the brake bolt bosses and had no rocking at the bushings. Seals were installed 800 miles ago. I am only spamming this thread because I do not want to deal with a bunch of dudes asking me a ton of questions like, "will this work on my 1993 GT?" Having been in this thread a bunch, I know most of you all are pretty sane. Thanks! PLEASE PM ME SO I SEE A NOTIFICATION-I am internet dumb and may not check in this thread for awhile because as we all know, X-Fusion forks are so damn reliable, we don't need to check here that often!
    Last edited by cstem; 03-04-2016 at 08:27 PM. Reason: pictures yo!
    Vassago Cycles, Shadetree Bikes, Flat Tire Bikes, Galfer Brakes USA

  34. #334
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    Which specific RL2 fork? The RL 2 damper is in 32mm and 34mm forks for all three wheel sizes and the lowers at least will be different between them.

  35. #335
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    Hey everyone I have been lurking this thread for sometime now and finally have a question.
    What pressures/high speed/low speed/ rebound are you all running on your roughcut forks?
    I am 77ish kg with 6 clicks of low speed F.F.O
    High Speed F.O.
    Rebound 6 clicks F.F.O.
    60ish psi and havent used full travel yet.

    It is a 650b sweep on an Intense Spider 275.

    Cheers

    Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

  36. #336
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  37. #337
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhillipJ View Post
    Many thanks.

    Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

  38. #338
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    Quick question...I am installing a travel adjust spacer and I think I need to take apart the air spring assembly so I can slide the spacer on. Do I just use a hex wrench in the bottom of the rod to unthread the bottom foot thingy that keeps everything from sliding off?

    Thanks

  39. #339
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    32 slants. The stancions and guts will always work in that size.
    Vassago Cycles, Shadetree Bikes, Flat Tire Bikes, Galfer Brakes USA

  40. #340
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    BTW- gotta say I cannot believe I have held out on thru-axle for so long. The bike handles so much better on hard conrnering and drops/jumps. If you are still QR- save your pennies and get with the now!
    Vassago Cycles, Shadetree Bikes, Flat Tire Bikes, Galfer Brakes USA

  41. #341
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    Quote Originally Posted by wankel View Post
    Quick question...I am installing a travel adjust spacer and I think I need to take apart the air spring assembly so I can slide the spacer on. Do I just use a hex wrench in the bottom of the rod to unthread the bottom foot thingy that keeps everything from sliding off?

    Thanks
    The video on the xfusion site covers the procedure well.
    You don't have to disassemble the air spring assembly to change the travel.
    The only thing different I do is that I found the park tool #1 (green) pin spanner fit better than the recommended #2 red pin spanner.
    And if you don't have the damper tool xfusion sells it for a couple bucks and it makes fork servicing much easier.

  42. #342
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    Quote Originally Posted by ac1000 View Post
    The video on the xfusion site covers the procedure well.
    You don't have to disassemble the air spring assembly to change the travel.
    The only thing different I do is that I found the park tool #1 (green) pin spanner fit better than the recommended #2 red pin spanner.
    And if you don't have the damper tool xfusion sells it for a couple bucks and it makes fork servicing much easier.
    Sorry, I should have mentioned that I am lowering travel from 160 to 150 mm using a 10 mm spacer (not using the preset pin positions). The only way I can see to get the spacer on is by removing the foot, correct?

  43. #343
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    Quote Originally Posted by wankel View Post
    Sorry, I should have mentioned that I am lowering travel from 160 to 150 mm using a 10 mm spacer (not using the preset pin positions). The only way I can see to get the spacer on is by removing the foot, correct?
    The spacers are horseshoe shaped so they just slide on from the sideIf you are using a makeshift spacer then yes you would have to disassemble the air spring.

  44. #344
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    Quote Originally Posted by ac1000 View Post
    The spacers are horseshoe shaped so they just slide on from the sideIf you are using a makeshift spacer then yes you would have to disassemble the air spring.
    I purchased the spacer from an XFusion distributor, and was surprised to see that it wasn't horseshoe shaped as I was expecting.

  45. #345
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    Quote Originally Posted by cstem View Post
    32 slants. The stancions and guts will always work in that size.
    The Slant is a 34mm fork.

  46. #346
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    Hi Guys,

    Just got some brand 2014 Trace RL2 DLA forks pretty cheap and i think they may have an issue straight out of the box. They don't seem to have a a top out bumper and feel like they are metal to metal on the end of the return stroke. Never owned X Fusion forks before but i think i can safely assume this isn't normal. I service and repair forks regularly and have not come across forks without a top out bumper until now. They are 110mm-140mm DLA travel adjust but i am measuring 150mm exposed stanchion. I cant find anything on DLA service to check if there should be a top out bumper either. Can't even find an exploded parts list. I'm beginning to think this was a mistake.....

    Waiting to hear back from CR on what they are going to do for me but thought i would post something here in the meantime. I have an event coming up and the best solution might be fixing it myself.

  47. #347
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    Sorry about that I meant Slide. Long weekend!
    Vassago Cycles, Shadetree Bikes, Flat Tire Bikes, Galfer Brakes USA

  48. #348
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    Quote Originally Posted by wankel View Post
    I purchased the spacer from an XFusion distributor, and was surprised to see that it wasn't horseshoe shaped as I was expecting.
    So rather than try and take the assembly apart, I just cut a section out of the spacer making it horseshoe shaped and that seemed to work fine.

    Thanks

  49. #349
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    Hi

    I just recently bought the same fork from CRC and the same issue out of the box. It was was really harsh and topped out loud.

    I did the zip tie trick, and that totally changed how the fork feels. So you best try that first.

    Just slide a small plastic zip tie under the wiper seal and you should hear air hissing. Obviously make sure everything is nice and clean first...

  50. #350
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    Quote Originally Posted by KnuutV View Post
    Hi

    I just recently bought the same fork from CRC and the same issue out of the box. It was was really harsh and topped out loud.

    I did the zip tie trick, and that totally changed how the fork feels. So you best try that first.

    Just slide a small plastic zip tie under the wiper seal and you should hear air hissing. Obviously make sure everything is nice and clean first...
    Ok thanks, will give that a try but it still shouldn't top out with a solid metallic clunk though. Not sure as all the forks I have serviced have a decent top out bumper inside. Havent opened up an X Fusion fork before though. Mainly Fox, Marzocchi, RS. This fork feels like a slide hammer even when I up the rebound damp a bit it slows the return down but still a definite metal to metal feel at top out.

  51. #351
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    Quote Originally Posted by niva1989 View Post
    Ok thanks, will give that a try but it still shouldn't top out with a solid metallic clunk though. Not sure as all the forks I have serviced have a decent top out bumper inside. Havent opened up an X Fusion fork before though. Mainly Fox, Marzocchi, RS. This fork feels like a slide hammer even when I up the rebound damp a bit it slows the return down but still a definite metal to metal feel at top out.
    Am familiar with the cable tie trick as i have a pair of Pikes on my other ride. Didn't make any difference in this case. maybe I have a different issue. Am going to exchange them.

  52. #352
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    Quote Originally Posted by niva1989 View Post
    Hi Guys,

    Just got some brand 2014 Trace RL2 DLA forks pretty cheap and i think they may have an issue straight out of the box. They don't seem to have a a top out bumper and feel like they are metal to metal on the end of the return stroke. Never owned X Fusion forks before but i think i can safely assume this isn't normal. I service and repair forks regularly and have not come across forks without a top out bumper until now. They are 110mm-140mm DLA travel adjust but i am measuring 150mm exposed stanchion. I cant find anything on DLA service to check if there should be a top out bumper either. Can't even find an exploded parts list. I'm beginning to think this was a mistake.....

    Waiting to hear back from CR on what they are going to do for me but thought i would post something here in the meantime. I have an event coming up and the best solution might be fixing it myself.
    Someone must have had a DLA travel adjust air spring apart. I just need to know if there should be a top out bumper installed. Mine is definitely metal to metal on top out.

  53. #353
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    Quote Originally Posted by niva1989 View Post
    Ok thanks, will give that a try but it still shouldn't top out with a solid metallic clunk though. Not sure as all the forks I have serviced have a decent top out bumper inside. Havent opened up an X Fusion fork before though. Mainly Fox, Marzocchi, RS. This fork feels like a slide hammer even when I up the rebound damp a bit it slows the return down but still a definite metal to metal feel at top out.
    I had the slide hammer feel when I first got mine. I had way too much pressure and was overpowering the negative spring at 110 psi. I lowered to 90 psi and added some more oil in the air chamber for a more progressive air spring and that fixed mine right up.

  54. #354
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    Quote Originally Posted by GuitsBoy View Post
    I had the slide hammer feel when I first got mine. I had way too much pressure and was overpowering the negative spring at 110 psi. I lowered to 90 psi and added some more oil in the air chamber for a more progressive air spring and that fixed mine right up.
    Thanks. I am feeling more confident that this normal for X Fusion. I just wanted to be sure that I wasnt going to slide hammer them apart when riding. I have a second set coming from CR anyway and if they are the same then I guess thats how they are. I am a bit of a Clyde so need the pressure up a bit. Will have to play around with them a bit. Thanks for the advice. I will probably fit my own bumper anyway as it just doesnt feel right to be metal to metal. I went back and had a look at my old Fox Floats and RS Pikes. If i bump up the pressure in them and back off rebound dampening fully they still have a soft thud at topout due to the rubber bumper. I still feel it is missing as I just dont think anyone would make a fork without a top out bumper.

  55. #355
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    Quote Originally Posted by niva1989 View Post
    Thanks. I am feeling more confident that this normal for X Fusion. I just wanted to be sure that I wasnt going to slide hammer them apart when riding. I have a second set coming from CR anyway and if they are the same then I guess thats how they are. I am a bit of a Clyde so need the pressure up a bit. Will have to play around with them a bit. Thanks for the advice. I will probably fit my own bumper anyway as it just doesnt feel right to be metal to metal. I went back and had a look at my old Fox Floats and RS Pikes. If i bump up the pressure in them and back off rebound dampening fully they still have a soft thud at topout due to the rubber bumper. I still feel it is missing as I just dont think anyone would make a fork without a top out bumper.
    I'm about 235 myself, and I really thought I needed 110 or more psi, but these forks run pretty progressive as is, and even more so with extra oil. I've yet to bottom mine out at only 90 psi and 130mm travel and some extra oil. Give it a shot.

  56. #356
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    Quote Originally Posted by GuitsBoy View Post
    I'm about 235 myself, and I really thought I needed 110 or more psi, but these forks run pretty progressive as is, and even more so with extra oil. I've yet to bottom mine out at only 90 psi and 130mm travel and some extra oil. Give it a shot.
    Ok. We are about the same weight then. I will give it a go. I have replacement forks on their way from CR so will wait till i get those as i have already packed up the others. I will need to set up the replacement anyway so will use your advice when i get them.

  57. #357
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    Quote Originally Posted by niva1989 View Post
    Am familiar with the cable tie trick as i have a pair of Pikes on my other ride. Didn't make any difference in this case. maybe I have a different issue. Am going to exchange them.
    On my forks the clunk disappeared after equalizing the lowers, yours have probably something else wrong then...

    On my Trace dla spring I run about 115psi and I weight about 75 kg.

    PS. In this thread a couple pages back are pictures of a disassembled dla spring.

  58. #358
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    Quote Originally Posted by KnuutV View Post
    On my forks the clunk disappeared after equalizing the lowers, yours have probably something else wrong then...

    On my Trace dla spring I run about 115psi and I weight about 75 kg.

    PS. In this thread a couple pages back are pictures of a disassembled dla spring.
    Cheers. Not sure how I missed that.

  59. #359
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    Did you get your stuck down sorted in the end. Dies the dla cart need a bleed?

  60. #360
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwyooaj View Post
    Lazarus, did you buy it directly from xfusion? when i asked them about it it sure seemed like they didnt want to sell it to me on its own but wanted me to send the fork in instead.
    Here is another pic of the RL2 damper tool:

    X FUSION RL2 Aftermarket damper tool 2015 :: £10.00 :: WORKSHOP :: Tools- Workshop :: 18 Bikes Web Shop
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  61. #361
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    Quote Originally Posted by KnuutV View Post
    On my forks the clunk disappeared after equalizing the lowers, yours have probably something else wrong then...

    On my Trace dla spring I run about 115psi and I weight about 75 kg.

    PS. In this thread a couple pages back are pictures of a disassembled dla spring.
    Ok. I emailed X Fusion service in the US directly and John couldn't have been more helpful. He responded to further questions straight away which was great as I am in Australia. He explained the best way to purge the negative air Spring is to let all of the air out while compressing the fork fully. You have to make sure you let every last bit of air out. This resets the negative air Spring pressure and restored my fork top out bumper feel. With the DLA cartridge the negative air Spring is the top out bumper.
    I am sure this has been covered elsewhere in this thread but I might have missed it. Doesn't hurt to repeat it. Kudos again to X Fusion service support.

  62. #362
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    Quote Originally Posted by niva1989 View Post
    Ok. I emailed X Fusion service in the US directly and John couldn't have been more helpful. He responded to further questions straight away which was great as I am in Australia. He explained the best way to purge the negative air Spring is to let all of the air out while compressing the fork fully. You have to make sure you let every last bit of air out. This resets the negative air Spring pressure and restored my fork top out bumper feel. With the DLA cartridge the negative air Spring is the top out bumper.
    I am sure this has been covered elsewhere in this thread but I might have missed it. Doesn't hurt to repeat it. Kudos again to X Fusion service support.
    Yeah, that advice is in here somewhere. I know I've written it multiple times on different threads over the years, but it is likely buried in the 15 pages... It's often called "burping" the fork.
    Glad they help you sort it out.

    I've started thinking there could be more to this than what is suggested.
    For example, when "burping" the fork and compressing it fully, the negative chamber will be 100% full of air, which might be ideal for a heavy rider, but maybe only compressing it 80% of the way then burping it will be ideal for a lighter weight rider. Too much negative spring could lead to fork diving, or having to put in even more air to the positive chamber resulting in a change in performance, or not being able to get full travel.

    Example: 100% burp may require 100PSI to get the fork to extend all the way to 140mm. A lighter weight rider will not be running 100PSI, but might be running 60PSI, and which point the fork will not extend to 140mm because the negative chamber is overpowering the 60PSI in the positive chamber. Thus the rider will have a fork that extends to ~120mm. That person will then come on here asking why they don't get a full 140mm.

    Maybe the perfect amount is where the fork extends to about 135mm when the proper PSI is in the positive chamber. The extra 5mm is effectively the top-out bumper provided by the negative spring pressure. So they key will be finding how far to compress the fork when burping it.

    This would be similar to the older RS Revelation where we could individually add positive and negative pressure. With that fork it was clear to see what would happen if the pressures were not properly balanced.

    Thoughts?

  63. #363
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    IMHO:
    If the lowers are burbed while fully compressing the fork, there will be negative pressure (relative to outside) in the lowers once the fork is extended. That might stop the fork from fully extending by creating a vacuum effect.

    If there is positive pressure in the lowers, it will make it harder to compress the fork and adds to the spring rate.

    I don't think the empty space in the lowers is the negative spring. But there must be negative spring within the dla spring assembly and the normal spring has a coil negative spring.

    Maybe when you release the air from the spring and compress the fork the internal negative chamber in the DLA spring is reset...

    This is an interesting mystery haha

  64. #364
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    Quote Originally Posted by KnuutV View Post
    IMHO:
    If the lowers are burbed while fully compressing the fork, there will be negative pressure (relative to outside) in the lowers once the fork is extended. That might stop the fork from fully extending by creating a vacuum effect.

    If there is positive pressure in the lowers, it will make it harder to compress the fork and adds to the spring rate.

    I don't think the empty space in the lowers is the negative spring. But there must be negative spring within the dla spring assembly and the normal spring has a coil negative spring.

    Maybe when you release the air from the spring and compress the fork the internal negative chamber in the DLA spring is reset...

    This is an interesting mystery haha
    From what I found out it looks as thought the negative air spring is in the sealed cartridge section and not the lowers so the only way to purge it is to release all of the air and compress fully. I tried the cable tie behind the seal and it didn't work. Will have this fork apart one day when its time for a full service and will work it out for sure then.

  65. #365
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    Just waiting for my slant to arrive.
    Looking forward to opening it up!!
    Thanks everyone.

  66. #366
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    I need to open up my 2013 Slant to change the travel from 120 to 130. Shdou be able to do that easy with the advice in this post.

    This might be a dumb question.....but is there any way to reduce the axle to crown measurement? It is nearly 1cm longer than my previous fork, and I am wanting to keep the BB as low as possible.

    Increasing travel to 130mm will also increase BB height, so I am trying to keep it to a minimum.

    Thanks for any tips.

  67. #367
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    hi! I have a x-fusion slide rl2.. I feel the compression harsh and very firm comparated with reba...

    how i can adjust or increase the sensitive on small bumps...

    I read about to realocate the shims on damper... how I can Procedure?

  68. #368
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    Quote Originally Posted by ftajiri View Post
    I read about to realocate the shims on damper... how I can Procedure?
    Look back through this thread until you find Two-One's post about re-arranging the high-speed shim stack then do the thing he says.

  69. #369
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    Thanks to this thread I was able to service my RL2 Slide fork. I have not been able to test it on the trails yet, but I did notice that it feels 'sticky' at initial compression. This feeling goes after compressing it a few times, but comes back after a few hours or days of not cycling it. Is there a break-in period? I used enduro instead x-fusion wiper/seals. Thoughts?

  70. #370
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    The initial stiction is due to the air spring being unlubricated when the fork is stored upright. As you've noticed it goes away after a few cycles because oil gets moved around. Storing the fork upside down also prevents this from happening.


    It's not a problem as far as I can tell.

  71. #371
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    No need to store bike upside down. Just turn the bike upside down for about thirty seconds to allow the oil to lubricate the foam rings under the wipers.

  72. #372
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    Hi guys!
    I hope you can help me. My fork has a little bit of uppers-lowers play. I sent the fork to service and they told me that the problem is on the bushings, so: do you know where can I buy a Bushing Kit for a Slant? I'm from Chile and here no one have spare parts for this fork. I bought the fork on Ebay so is very difficult to send it for a "guarantee replacement". I've searched on the internet but with no good results :/ Another possibility is to find a Fox 34 Bushing Kit instead of a X-Fusion specific but I don't know if it works without problems. Any idea? Please!

    Thanks!

  73. #373
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    You have two X-Fusion Service Centers in Chile.

    X Fusion Shox International Dealers

    If that doesn't work out for you, check the guys in the USA, in Santa Cruz. Their customer service is excellent.

  74. #374
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    Quote Originally Posted by Centurion_ View Post
    You have two X-Fusion Service Centers in Chile.

    X Fusion Shox International Dealers

    If that doesn't work out for you, check the guys in the USA, in Santa Cruz. Their customer service is excellent.
    Yeah, I called them but they don't have Bushing kits, apparently there's no stock in Chile. They told me that thay have to contact X-Fusion to import some kits and everything but is veery slow, maybe in two weeks they will know if they can service my fork, "maybe". On the other service center they don't have replacements neither (so the have to contact X-Fusion too) and they told me that the replacement will cost something like 200USD, which is very expensive in my opinion.
    I will contact the Santa Cruz guys. Maybe they can send me a kit, I hope.
    If someone else knows if I can buy the bushings online or if another kit works I'll be very thankful.

    Thanks Centurion!

  75. #375
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    Quote Originally Posted by Centurion_ View Post
    You have two X-Fusion Service Centers in Chile.

    X Fusion Shox International Dealers

    If that doesn't work out for you, check the guys in the USA, in Santa Cruz. Their customer service is excellent.
    Yeah, I called them but they don't have Bushing kits, apparently there's no stock in Chile. They told me that thay have to contact X-Fusion to import some kits and everything but is veery slow, maybe in two weeks they will know if they can service my fork, "maybe". On the other service center they don't have replacements neither (so the have to contact X-Fusion too) and they told me that the replacement will cost something like 200USD, which is very expensive in my opinion.
    I will contact the Santa Cruz guys. Maybe they can send me a kit, I hope.
    If someone else knows if I can buy the bushings online or if another kit works I'll be very thankful.

    Thanks Centurion!

  76. #376
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    Yeah, I called them but they don't have Bushing kits, apparently there's no stock in Chile. They told me that thay have to contact X-Fusion to import some kits and everything but is veery slow, maybe in two weeks they will know if they can service my fork, "maybe". On the other service center they don't have replacements neither (so the have to contact X-Fusion too) and they told me that the replacement will cost something like 200USD, which is very expensive in my opinion.
    I will contact the Santa Cruz guys. Maybe they can send me a kit, I hope.
    If someone else knows if I can buy the bushings online or if another kit works I'll be very thankful.

    Thanks Centurion!

  77. #377
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    I live in Santa Cruz and have done walk-in business with X-Fusion before. They have been extremely helpful and responsive so far. If it ends up that they can't help you then post again here and maybe I can be of assistance.

  78. #378
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    I just wanted to give a shout out to X-Fusion for helping me out last week. My RL2 Sweep had a problem with a leaky air spring. Customer service/Warranty knew exactly what the problem was and promptly got me a new one; no charge.

    Too many complaints and not enough praise when companies provide prompt, good customer service. I'm thrilled with the performance the Sweep RL2 has given me. I really feel like it's an underrated fork!
    The cake is a lie.

  79. #379
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    I have tightened the air chamber cap with park tool spa-2 (red) according to step 14 in the original post. I did not hear any click and I did not feel it was too tight. I tried it a few more times, still no pop. The basic problem is that the tool flexes a lot even at a low torque and the pins tend to come out from the holes, I have to push it hard to keep it in place. Because of it I cannot apply the required torque easily. The tool marked the holes which I hate. I assembled the fork and it seems not to leak any air but is it secure? I am not sure if I under or overtighten it.

  80. #380
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    Quote Originally Posted by freddy01 View Post
    I have tightened the air chamber cap with park tool spa-2 (red) according to step 14 in the original post. I did not hear any click and I did not feel it was too tight. I tried it a few more times, still no pop. The basic problem is that the tool flexes a lot even at a low torque and the pins tend to come out from the holes, I have to push it hard to keep it in place. Because of it I cannot apply the required torque easily. The tool marked the holes which I hate. I assembled the fork and it seems not to leak any air but is it secure? I am not sure if I under or overtighten it.
    I found the park tool spa1 pin spanner green fits way better.

  81. #381
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    Quote Originally Posted by ac1000 View Post
    I found the park tool spa1 pin spanner green fits way better.
    Thank you, I will order the spa-1.

    I am worried that I damaged the cap. Not sure that I see it well but it seems to me that the curve of the cap is just slightly deformed around the two holes the spa-2 marked the most. From the side the cap seems to be perfectly level with the end of the tube. Should I replace the cap or you exeprince similar marks on yours (e.g. it is normal)?


    Another topic: I ordered the PAW-12 for the top caps but it was a mistake. Should I use the SCW-28 cone wrench or any better idea?
    Last edited by freddy01; 05-07-2016 at 04:46 AM.

  82. #382
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    Thanks Borabora!

    I sent an email to X-Fusion Santa Cruz but they told me that they don't sell the bushing as it requires a special tool and a sizer so I answered that the guys from the service center -here in Chile- told me that, in fact, they can do the instalation and that I didn't want to install the bushings by myself. John (the guy from Santa Cruz) had doubts about if the service center can do the work so I asked if they could sell me anyway a kit as an exception and he didn't give me a decisive answer about if this was possible or not, he said that they don't have bushings in stock. Tomorrow I'll go to the service center here in Chile to ask if they have bushings in stock now. :/

  83. #383
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    Quote Originally Posted by Criss View Post
    Thanks Borabora!

    I sent an email to X-Fusion Santa Cruz but they told me that they don't sell the bushing as it requires a special tool and a sizer so I answered that the guys from the service center -here in Chile- told me that, in fact, they can do the instalation and that I didn't want to install the bushings by myself. John (the guy from Santa Cruz) had doubts about if the service center can do the work so I asked if they could sell me anyway a kit as an exception and he didn't give me a decisive answer about if this was possible or not, he said that they don't have bushings in stock. Tomorrow I'll go to the service center here in Chile to ask if they have bushings in stock now. :/
    Have you asked them what their turn-around time and cost would be for a rebuild? Also, some bushing kits are available on eBay. You'd have to sieve through the offerings to find the correct ones. And, of course, eBay can be a bit risky.
    My offer stands if you need local help facilitating xfusion service or parts.

  84. #384
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    Quote Originally Posted by freddy01 View Post
    Thank you, I will order the spa-1.

    I am worried that I damaged the cap. Not sure that I see it well but it seems to me that the curve of the cap is just slightly deformed around the two holes the spa-2 marked the most. From the side the cap seems to be perfectly level with the end of the tube. Should I replace the cap or you exeprince similar marks on yours (e.g. it is normal)?


    Another topic: I ordered the PAW-12 for the top caps but it was a mistake. Should I use the SCW-28 cone wrench or any better idea?
    The spa1 tool fits in the small holes just like the spa2 sort of does.
    Id be curious what tool fits in those larger holes.
    I cant imagine you damaged the cap but who knows.

    For the top cap the best tool is a ground down socket. Ive heard you can try a regular socket over a plastic bag but I've never attemped it.

  85. #385
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    Well 10 minutes into my lunchtime ride my rl2 sweep started topping out on me. Nothing subtle, just that its uncompressed position is fully extended and after every little bump it slams itself back there. Before this, I had noticed a little play in the fork, i.e. when I take the bike of the rack and put in the ground, it compresses a little as if there is some slop in the negative spring function. Perhaps this was the beginning of the far worse problem that I have now. I'll take it apart tonight and have a look. Anybody else have this issue?

  86. #386
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    Quote Originally Posted by ac1000 View Post
    The spa1 tool fits in the small holes just like the spa2 sort of does.
    Id be curious what tool fits in those larger holes.
    I cant imagine you damaged the cap but who knows.

    For the top cap the best tool is a ground down socket. Ive heard you can try a regular socket over a plastic bag but I've never attemped it.
    The SPA-1 has a 2.9, while the SPA-2 has a 2.3mm of pin diameter. I can imagine the greater diameter fits better. After "this accident" I do think the SPA-2 is not the right tool. But I don't expect too much from SPA-1 either. They flex and the pins tend to come out from the holes. I would need a more stable tool, whatever the price is.

    Now I guess I can replace the whole air piston assembly because I can't buy the cap separately.

  87. #387
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    I've bought two 24 and 28mm sockets (the 24mm one for my Rock Shox) to get them machined to flat. The internal size of the 28mm socket was 28.3-28.5mm. There was a huge play between the nuts and the tool both on the air chamber and damper side nuts, and also on the Rock Shox relevation's 24mm nut. I took the tools back to the local shop. It was a King Tony, a good local brand. Do you have any recommendation on the socket brand I should buy? To be honest I would rather try the Park Tool SCW-28 cone wrench.

  88. #388
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    I bought whatever Home Depot's house brand was (Husky?), and it was a good snug fit.

    You might consider buying a specific fork top cap wrench instead. They're a lot less expensive than I thought. Lunar Bike Tools

    Edit: The downside being that you can't tighten them with a torque wrench. You'd be going by feel.

  89. #389
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    Quote Originally Posted by lazarus2405 View Post
    I bought whatever Home Depot's house brand was (Husky?), and it was a good snug fit.

    You might consider buying a specific fork top cap wrench instead. They're a lot less expensive than I thought. Lunar Bike Tools

    Edit: The downside being that you can't tighten them with a torque wrench. You'd be going by feel.
    Thank you, I saw something similar but I was not able to find where to buy it. It is made in the US and I don't see it in Europe. But it may be worth even with the import taxes.

    I also found something better, the Abbey Suspension Top Cap Sockets and it works with torque wrench.

    I vote for the second one but the price is senseless.

  90. #390
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    Quote Originally Posted by lazarus2405 View Post
    I bought whatever Home Depot's house brand was (Husky?), and it was a good snug fit.

    You might consider buying a specific fork top cap wrench instead. They're a lot less expensive than I thought. Lunar Bike Tools

    Edit: The downside being that you can't tighten them with a torque wrench. You'd be going by feel.
    I bought the lunar bike tools wrenches and they don't fit the top cap well on my xfusion Sweep.

    My ground down Wilmar 6 point 28mm socket does the job perfectly.
    Its a tool that a home mechanic doesn't use very often but it makes the job much easier and you don't f-up your top caps.

  91. #391
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    I've just been using a 28mm open-ended wrench with no issues. The top caps are not *that* tight that you risk damage.

  92. #392
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    Quote Originally Posted by borabora View Post
    Have you asked them what their turn-around time and cost would be for a rebuild? Also, some bushing kits are available on eBay. You'd have to sieve through the offerings to find the correct ones. And, of course, eBay can be a bit risky.
    My offer stands if you need local help facilitating xfusion service or parts.
    I didn't ask, I was (and I'm) trying to avoid having to send the fork to USA because it can take a lot of time to have it back and that means no riding. I searched on eBay but I don't know wich are the correct ones, almost everything that appears is for Fox or RockShox.
    About your offer, I think that I'll send you a message if you don't mind just to don't "over-reply" the thread (?)

    Again, thank you for your response!

  93. #393
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    Quote Originally Posted by Criss View Post
    I didn't ask, I was (and I'm) trying to avoid having to send the fork to USA because it can take a lot of time to have it back and that means no riding. I searched on eBay but I don't know wich are the correct ones, almost everything that appears is for Fox or RockShox.
    About your offer, I think that I'll send you a message if you don't mind just to don't "over-reply" the thread (?)

    Again, thank you for your response!
    If I understand well, you need to rebuild the bushings in the legs. I am not a professional, but in my personal opinion it is something you shouldn't do at home (even with proper tools). If I were you I would send the fork to the factory for this maintenance.

  94. #394
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    Quote Originally Posted by lazarus2405 View Post
    I bought whatever Home Depot's house brand was (Husky?), and it was a good snug fit.

    You might consider buying a specific fork top cap wrench instead. They're a lot less expensive than I thought. Lunar Bike Tools


    Edit: The downside being that you can't tighten them with a torque wrench. You'd be going by feel.

    That wrench is nice! Anyways, I use an adjustable wrench with no issues. I'm just very careful fitting/tightening it to the damper when applying force to avoid damaging it.

  95. #395
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    Could you tell me the diameter of the pins and the distance of two pin centers of the air chamber cap? I already assembled my fork.

    Something like this tool would be much more stable with 4 pins instead of the flexing park tool spa-1/2. I should find one with a larger hole because the rod of the air chamber should go through the center of the tool.

  96. #396
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    Quote Originally Posted by ac1000 View Post
    I bought the lunar bike tools wrenches and they don't fit the top cap well on my xfusion Sweep.

    My ground down Wilmar 6 point 28mm socket does the job perfectly.
    Its a tool that a home mechanic doesn't use very often but it makes the job much easier and you don't f-up your top caps.
    Why didn't the lunar tool fit? Could you please to measure the size of the tool and the size of your top cap nut?

    Mine is 28.00mm both on the the air and damper sides.

  97. #397
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    However, where I tried to unscrew the air side nut with a park tool adjustable wrench I measure 28.06mm. It enlarged with 0.06mm.

    I did not enforce it because the park tool started to open when I added a little torque and I saw it would not work. It left very thin marks on the bottom of nut, not on the sides. But it seems, it deformed the sides too.

    As I mentioned above my air chamber cap is also marked because of the "manufacturer recommended" park tool spa-2 crap.

    All these crappy components are like butter. The air spring assembly (including the cap) would cost 50 EUR, the top cap I don't know and what next?

    I should get special tools manufactured otherwise the fork cannot be serviced without damages. It is ridiculous. I am considering of selling my X-Fusion fork and buying a rigid fork instead.

    My untouched rock shox's nut is 23.9mm. Is the lunar wrench manufactured to fit undersized nuts better? I don't want to mark/damage it too.

  98. #398
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    Quote Originally Posted by freddy01 View Post
    If I understand well, you need to rebuild the bushings in the legs. I am not a professional, but in my personal opinion it is something you shouldn't do at home (even with proper tools). If I were you I would send the fork to the factory for this maintenance.
    Hi Freddy, I agree with you, thats why I don't want to rebuild the bushings by myself. What I want to do is to send the fork WITH the bushing kit to an official X-Fusion service center here since they don't have it in stock.

  99. #399
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    How responsive has Xfusion been recently? My lbs had trouble getting ahold of someone for CSU replacement. I emailed service apartment about sending it in and waiting to hear back...

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
    '12 Scott Spark 29 Team
    '13 Scott Scale 970
    '11 Scott Speedster S20
    '99 Spec' FSR Comp
    '9x Spec' Hardrock Cromo rigid

  100. #400
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    Just call and leave a message. They called me back in a few hours when I called them 2 weeks ago.

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