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  1. #151
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    My Slant just developed the 'not getting full travel' problem.

    It's been fine for 9 months but a full weekend of downhilling might've been a bit much!

    The problem is definitely with the damper as even at 0psi I can't get the last 5cm of travel. I whipped the lowers off and tried to compress the damper rod by hand. It should compress almost to the bottom of the stanchion but it reaches a point where it feels I'm compressing air

    I opened the damping leg top cap and a fair bit of air pished out along with some oil. So I figure either the damper has hydro locked by sucking up some of the lower leg oil, or somehow it's been compressed with air

    I emptied out all the oil and have some on order to refill the damper (Rock oil 5wt is the correct cst and available from crc)

    Bit worried it'll happen again. I can change the seals but the main damper seal against the stanchion doesn't move so it shouldn't have worn...

  2. #152
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    A big thanks to all who have contributed to this thread, my slant is now so much better after doing the shimstack rearrangement! The initial harshness is greatly reduced, plusher, but still enough support for when things get rowdy. I am going to just leave it alone now until it needs a service.

    I was pretty daunted about doing it at first, but thanks to this thread it was actually pretty easy!

    Running 75 psi @ 160lbs with Motul 2.5w (15 cst@40c) in the damper.

    Cheers!

  3. #153
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    I recently got my hands on a Sweep RL2, which the owner found too harsh (he was used to the lovely Pike), so he asked me to give the Sweep a service, and see if I could retune it a little.
    So I went to work, and disassembled the fork to feel how the damper felt when completely disassembled. I noticed you can really feel the damping at any speed, even at the lower speeds. So it's pretty clear that there is no free bleed in the compression stroke.
    So I changed the midvalve stack to 10, 5, 8, 5, 5, 5 to soften the low speed damping.
    I also decided to crack open the lockout blowoff, to check its shim configuration. You can see the measurements below:
    official xfusion rl2 fork service and tuning thread-img_1029.jpg
    When I look at the individual port-sizes for the low- and highspeed (lockout) circuits, I figure that that the lockout-circuit is only used in extreme situations. The ring shim creates a concave surface for the four 18x0.15mm shims to press against, and is therefore costs a lot of force to open up. Maybe when hitting a large root or rock straight-on.
    So I figured I would reduce some of that stack preload to soften the lockout and involve its circuit at lower speeds. So I moved the ring shim further up the stack, so that only two 18x0.15mm are above it. The total number of shims is still the same, but now preload is reduced!

    My friend will try this configuration next week, so until then I hope to hear your opinions as well.
    Be aware that you will need a THIN 12mm wrench to loosen the piston bolt (that also contains the midvalve assembly).

  4. #154
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    So to clarify, the current lockout stack is:
    18x0.2
    18x0.15 (2)
    18x0.3 + 16x0.15 (ring and centering shim)
    18x0.15 (2)
    12x0.15 (4)

  5. #155
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    RicB, This is exactly what happened to my trace RL2. I put 70cc of 5 wt oil and the first ride was unbelievable. Full travel and smooth. I've put a fair amount of miles on it since then not getting full travel as easy as when I drained the damper oil.

    Quote Originally Posted by RicB View Post
    My Slant just developed the 'not getting full travel' problem.

    It's been fine for 9 months but a full weekend of downhilling might've been a bit much!

    The problem is definitely with the damper as even at 0psi I can't get the last 5cm of travel. I whipped the lowers off and tried to compress the damper rod by hand. It should compress almost to the bottom of the stanchion but it reaches a point where it feels I'm compressing air

    I opened the damping leg top cap and a fair bit of air pished out along with some oil. So I figure either the damper has hydro locked by sucking up some of the lower leg oil, or somehow it's been compressed with air

    I emptied out all the oil and have some on order to refill the damper (Rock oil 5wt is the correct cst and available from crc)

    Bit worried it'll happen again. I can change the seals but the main damper seal against the stanchion doesn't move so it shouldn't have worn...

  6. #156
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    Quote Originally Posted by two-one View Post
    So to clarify, the current lockout stack is:
    18x0.2
    18x0.15 (2)
    18x0.3 + 16x0.15 (ring and centering shim)
    18x0.15 (2)
    12x0.15 (4)
    Good info two-one! Thanks. I've been going back and forth on whether or not to try an xfusion fork and that answered some of my worries possibilities for revalving the rl2 damper. Not as robust as abs+ but may be a good option at some point since deals on Manitou's are getting harder to find.

    This thing basically has a base valve with a low speed free bleed that is controlled by the small shim stack. What I don't get is why they didn't incorporate a few detents into the adjuster so that it would have some more courser lsc adjustment. The high speed stack will still flow oil even with the damper open even though it's a pretty stiff stack, but like you have found, you can easily tune when it comes into play. If you want better square edge performance, I'd be working with the high speed stack. Did you happen to measure the size/geometry of the piston ports?

    Has anyone tried running the damper partially closed? It will probably ride fairly harsh without softening the high speed stack.

    Just judging by the pictures, it looks like you could go substantially softer on the high speed stack if you wanted more of a trail mode with the damper closed.

  7. #157
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    Does anyone know what model years of the Velvet had this same damper in it? I tried contacting xfusion, but got quickly fed up with the lack of technical knowledge by the guy tasked with answering my questions. From what I could gather, the early models and the latest models don't have this "midvalve" design.

  8. #158
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    Quote Originally Posted by ktm520 View Post
    If you want better square edge performance, I'd be working with the high speed stack. Did you happen to measure the size/geometry of the piston ports?

    Has anyone tried running the damper partially closed? It will probably ride fairly harsh without softening the high speed stack.

    Just judging by the pictures, it looks like you could go substantially softer on the high speed stack if you wanted more of a trail mode with the damper closed.
    I have only measured the ports in the midvalve assembly, which were 12 holes with 1mm diameter, so roughly equivalent to a single hole of 3,5mm.
    Looking at the pictures, the highspeed circuit looks like six ports of ~2mm, so about twice the flow area of the lowspeed circuit. But to make sure, I will have to measure all the other flowing area's... not just the ending ports.

    One of the tuning options is removing all the preload from the lockout stack, so you have two linear circuits parallel to each other. Running the lockout open will be equivalent to a single softer stack, while the lockout closed would give a firm stack, ideal for slow technical singletrack, or freeride.

  9. #159
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    @mmanuel09 - So yours improved and then gradually got worse again?

    Mine's definitely hydrolocked. Will need to keep a close eye on things when i refill.

    The easy way to 'bleed' the damper would be to take all the air out of the spring side, loosen the damper top cap most of the way, then slowly compress the fork and catch the excess oil as it comes out of the damper side.

    Unfortunately this means the lowers oil and damper oil have mixed so things won't be perfect but at least it's a quick fix if you're away riding for the weekend

  10. #160
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    Had my Velvet RL2 DLA converted to non-DLA (140mm), thinking this would fix my issue of only 130 - 135mm of visible stanchion. Got it back and it's still showing just over 130. Any other Velvet 140 owners, and does it generally give you less than this? If I pull the uppers and lowers away from each other, I can get 140 to show, but it never decompresses that far.

  11. #161
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    On my Velvet RL2 DLA, I just measured 144mm from the top of the seal to the bottom of the crown. There is also a line of the fork tube at exactly 140mm from the top of the seal showing how far the fork has been compressed out riding. With DLA engaged it is 30mm shorter.

    I have put about 500 miles on this fork over the past 5 months, I use DLA several times each ride and I have done zero maintainence and have had zero issues.

    Cheers,

    Lawrence

  12. #162
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    Quote Originally Posted by ztbishop View Post
    Had my Velvet RL2 DLA converted to non-DLA (140mm), thinking this would fix my issue of only 130 - 135mm of visible stanchion. Got it back and it's still showing just over 130. Any other Velvet 140 owners, and does it generally give you less than this? If I pull the uppers and lowers away from each other, I can get 140 to show, but it never decompresses that far.
    The spring system on air X-Fusions (bar the DLA) is quite simple.
    There is no negative chamber that can suck up travel. Only a negative spring.

    As a light rider, per my experience with other similar systems, the negative spring is too stiff for my recommended pressure making it show less stanchion length.

    Try upping up the pressure and see if that makes it extend. If so, your negative spring is too stiff for your weight. If not, look at the air plunger assembly. Probably it was set to 130mm
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  13. #163
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    should have an update soon
    Last edited by ztbishop; 10-11-2014 at 11:02 AM.

  14. #164
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    I was thinking the same thing. Just using a syringe to suck up some of that oil. I'm still able to get full travel but only on really hard hits. The fork doesn't soak up the trail like it did when I first re serviced it. Losing travel little by little. But yeah, I was thinking of doing that trick you just described.

  15. #165
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    Two-one, thanks for opening up the high-speed circuit, I think im gonna do the mod you did and see how it goes!
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  16. #166
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    Ztbishop

    Do you have the 10mm 650b spacer installed? In many forks you wont get the full 140 anyway due to the bottom out bumper, that's by design.

    If its an RL2 you won't have a 130mm option only 100 120 and 140 options. 130 definitely makes me think the 10mm 650b spacer is installed.

  17. #167
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    It's my Sweep that got Two-One's precision fork surgery.
    As Two-One mentiond I was after the 'Pike feeling' for my Sweep since I like that in general and will ride a City Downhill which involves a lot of stairs in november.

    Today I gave it a try and I am really happy with the result, of course the test ride sent me down a lot of.....stairs!
    The Sweep now absorb them transforming them in a flowy descend as where before all the individual steps could be felt.
    As for the lock-out: it's less 'absolute'. For climbing the 'in between position' at 45 degrees is a good solution as well.

    Front and rear are well balanced now, very happy with the result.

  18. #168
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    I had my sweep apart on the weekend for a service and to change the travel from 140 to 160mm. A tip for anyone else planning to adjust the travel, you can tap the pin out of the travel adjust thing with the pin from a chain breaker. Its the same size. I just unscrewed the pin from my chain breaker and then used it like a drift to tap the pin out of the travel adjuster. Not as controlled as an arbour press, but it did the job fine.

  19. #169
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    Check it out: Instagram

    Only 5 dollars!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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  20. #170
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    Quote Originally Posted by zephxiii View Post
    Check it out: Instagram

    Only 5 dollars!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    Nice! I emailed them to get one ordered
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  21. #171
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    Quote Originally Posted by zephxiii View Post
    Check it out: Instagram

    Only 5 dollars!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    Finally! Im ordering one tomorrow.
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  22. #172
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    So....I've managed to strip the hex head of the little screen that holds the blue lockout top cap in place.

    Don't suppose anyone knows what thread/size it is?

  23. #173
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    Quote Originally Posted by RicB View Post
    So....I've managed to strip the hex head of the little screen that holds the blue lockout top cap in place.

    Don't suppose anyone knows what thread/size it is?
    Try to use a torx key thats only a little bigger, T7 or T8?...

  24. #174
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    Yea I could bang in a T6 but I'm after a slightly more long-term solution :-)

    I suspect the thread is M1.6 (8mm long) so I've ordered some screws to check. 1.5mm hex heads have no place on mtb components. Even my old RC car didn't have hex heads that small!

  25. #175
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    So for information, the screws are m2.5 x 8mm

    I've bought some spares from eBay, which handily come with a bigger (2mm) hex head so far less likely to strip

    Big thanks to James at J-Tech, who posted a new screw out when I emailed to check the size. Awesome service :-)

  26. #176
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    Has anybody had looseness between the uppers and lowers? My wife told me she thought her headset was loose so I was checking the bike out and the headset is fine. After some head scratching and more bike wiggling, I realized there is play between the uppers and lowers. It's very easy to feel if I stick a finger between the lower and the fork brace and rock the front end with the front brake locked up.
    The fork is pretty new. It was given a "light rider" "custom" tune at the factory when new. The rider is about 120lbs and runs about 35psi to get appropriate sag. I'm going back and forth between contacting XFusion and sending it back to them.......again, or taking it apart and seeing if a basic service will fix it. I'm erring toward sending it back because reliability has already been an issue with it, and based on the symptoms I'm worried it's a bad bushing problem.

    To exacerbate things, despite the "light rider" tune, the fork still doesn't get full extension at the low pressure she's riding. I'm thinking it needs an even lighter negative spring than the "custom" one they presumably installed previously.

    Any input is greatly appreciated.

  27. #177
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    I have a knocking on my Trace which looks to be due to bushing play. If it's really bad or really bugs the rider, then return it. But under fork operation oil gets in there and fills the gap and it's not noticeable while riding.

    As for the issue about getting full travel:
    1. let all the air out of the fork
    2. compress it about half way
    3. do the zip-tie technique described earlier in this thread. (this is how the negative chamber is filled. Heavier riders are going to compress it all the way for a firmer negative spring, but at 35 PSI you won't need that strong of a negative spring, and a strong negative spring will overpower the positive spring. So try compressing only half way. If you get a top-out clunk, repeat the steps but go 3/4 compressed when you do the zip-tie trick. If you still can't get it to fully extend try compressing it 1/4 of the way for the zip-tie trick.)
    Also, if it's extending to just a few mm short of full extension I personally wouldn't worry about those last few mm. When it reaches about 7mm short I for sure would be looking to reduce negative spring PSI.
    4. Inflate the air chamber to 35psi and see how it works.

    It might sound like a bit of work, but once you figure it out it will be a non-issue.

  28. #178
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    Well I just did Two-ones's mod on the lockout/highspeed shim stack. Oddly, mine had only 3 of teh small shims on teh top of teh stack, not 4. Just testing it on the street, quite a difference. Feels more responsive and coil-like. Trail test as soon as my back heals. Thanks dude!
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  29. #179
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    Quote Originally Posted by d-bug View Post
    I have a knocking on my Trace which looks to be due to bushing play. If it's really bad or really bugs the rider, then return it. But under fork operation oil gets in there and fills the gap and it's not noticeable while riding.

    As for the issue about getting full travel:
    1. let all the air out of the fork
    2. compress it about half way
    3. do the zip-tie technique described earlier in this thread. (this is how the negative chamber is filled. Heavier riders are going to compress it all the way for a firmer negative spring, but at 35 PSI you won't need that strong of a negative spring, and a strong negative spring will overpower the positive spring. So try compressing only half way. If you get a top-out clunk, repeat the steps but go 3/4 compressed when you do the zip-tie trick. If you still can't get it to fully extend try compressing it 1/4 of the way for the zip-tie trick.)
    Also, if it's extending to just a few mm short of full extension I personally wouldn't worry about those last few mm. When it reaches about 7mm short I for sure would be looking to reduce negative spring PSI.
    4. Inflate the air chamber to 35psi and see how it works.

    It might sound like a bit of work, but once you figure it out it will be a non-issue.
    I cant seem to find this as described. Can you elaborate on this please?

    I have just installed my new TRACE RL2 140 (on a 2013 Giant TranceX 29 0) and would like to get the best from it straight away. I am 125kgs geared up. Ive set the rebound to 2 clicks faster than halfway. But with 30 clicks of adjustment, should i be more accurate. ( i have only ever used FOX FLOAT with 15 clicks). The local aussie distro DIYMTB is local to me, so would a custom factory tune, be of any use?
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  30. #180
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    Quote Originally Posted by ktm520 View Post
    Good info two-one! Thanks. I've been going back and forth on whether or not to try an xfusion fork and that answered some of my worries possibilities for revalving the rl2 damper. Not as robust as abs+ but may be a good option at some point since deals on Manitou's are getting harder to find.

    This thing basically has a base valve with a low speed free bleed that is controlled by the small shim stack. What I don't get is why they didn't incorporate a few detents into the adjuster so that it would have some more courser lsc adjustment. The high speed stack will still flow oil even with the damper open even though it's a pretty stiff stack, but like you have found, you can easily tune when it comes into play. If you want better square edge performance, I'd be working with the high speed stack. Did you happen to measure the size/geometry of the piston ports?

    Has anyone tried running the damper partially closed? It will probably ride fairly harsh without softening the high speed stack.

    Just judging by the pictures, it looks like you could go substantially softer on the high speed stack if you wanted more of a trail mode with the damper closed.
    Confirmed. I followed what two-one did, but instead of 2 18x0.15 shims on top of the ring, I put only 1 on top. I never really liked the solid lockout, and never felt the need to firm up the fork except on really long road climbs. This configuration created a soft "trail" mode when the lockout lever is in the closed position. Only slightly firmer than open. I like it!
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  31. #181
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    well i finally got out there and tested out two-one's mod that I did on my sweep. Quite a difference, seems to have more traction and small-bump compliance. Amazing how much softening the high-speed shim stack affects small (but square-edged) bump absorption. Also, the fork used to "chatter" under heavy braking in certain conditions, that has lessened. All in all, great modification for someone who doesnt like "firm" suspension. Thanks!
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  32. #182
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwyooaj View Post
    well i finally got out there and tested out two-one's mod that I did on my sweep. Quite a difference, seems to have more traction and small-bump compliance. Amazing how much softening the high-speed shim stack affects small (but square-edged) bump absorption. Also, the fork used to "chatter" under heavy braking in certain conditions, that has lessened. All in all, great modification for someone who doesnt like "firm" suspension. Thanks!
    Is this when set to the open setting or the 'locked' setting?

  33. #183
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    Has anyone had any issues with rebound? Bought a 2013 frame with Slant rl2 and 02 rl. Both have super fast rebound, so much that you can hear them returning with a loud klunk. Neither seem to be responding to rebound adjustments either. It was suggested maybe air was in the system and they needed a bleed. Any suggestions?

  34. #184
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    Has anyone had any issues with rebound? Bought a 2013 frame with Slant rl2 and 02 rl. Both have super fast rebound, so much that you can hear them returning with a loud klunk. Neither seem to be responding to rebound adjustments either. It was suggested maybe air was in the system and they needed a bleed. Any suggestions?

  35. #185
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    Quote Originally Posted by bkmad View Post
    Is this when set to the open setting or the 'locked' setting?
    Open setting. The locked setting is a bit softer too, blows off easier.
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  36. #186
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    Quote Originally Posted by zakkpw View Post
    Has anyone had any issues with rebound? Bought a 2013 frame with Slant rl2 and 02 rl. Both have super fast rebound, so much that you can hear them returning with a loud klunk. Neither seem to be responding to rebound adjustments either. It was suggested maybe air was in the system and they needed a bleed. Any suggestions?
    Not sure of the solution - but a mates Sweeps have had the same problem and have been sent back to Australian distributor to get fixed.

    Mine are off there today after having a seal service done and this has happened 3 times now (after being rebuilt each time) in 3 weeks.... bought some Pikes instead now.


  37. #187
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwyooaj View Post
    Open setting. The locked setting is a bit softer too, blows off easier.
    Did you check oil level in the damper?
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  38. #188
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    Quote Originally Posted by zephxiii View Post
    Did you check oil level in the damper?
    He's not talking about a problem, but reporting the experiences after modding the lockout-blowoff shim stack, turning it into a highspeed regulating shimstack.

  39. #189
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    Oil level is perfect, since the reshim necessitates a full rebuild!
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  40. #190
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    An update on the missing travel / stanchion issue from before. It turned out that the part I had received a while back was a newer 120 spring without adjustment, which is why it seemed too short. I just recieved the correct 140 Velvet air spring assembly.
    I finally have the full amount of stanchion....IF I put 90+ in the fork (which is too much to be useable.)
    I found that 65 PSI is the right amount for me....which gives me about 135mm to the bottom out point (after a few rides I managed to use 120 of it).

    What I'm finding is that the negative coil spring pulls the fork down from top-out area unless I put a LOT of air in it, which makes it less than a true 140 at the right pressure. Has anybody else noticed this, or found a way around it? (The zip-tie trick doesn't seem to make a difference with only 65psi in the fork).

    I assume this is a trade-off for the small bump compliance (which is nice that it has no stiction at all.)
    Last edited by ztbishop; 11-24-2014 at 07:48 PM.

  41. #191
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    Quote Originally Posted by zakkpw View Post
    Has anyone had any issues with rebound? Bought a 2013 frame with Slant rl2 and 02 rl. Both have super fast rebound, so much that you can hear them returning with a loud klunk. Neither seem to be responding to rebound adjustments either. It was suggested maybe air was in the system and they needed a bleed. Any suggestions?
    I have a Slide with the rl2 damper, and I have the opposite problem with rebound, in that it is too slow. I modified the stack of the triangular shims on the rebound piston, putting one of the small round spacers in between the two triangular shims, but it's still a little too slow. official xfusion rl2 fork service and tuning thread-fuerk6.jpgofficial xfusion rl2 fork service and tuning thread-fuerk8.jpg

    Additionally I found that there are spacers between the shaft of the damping rod and the rebound valve body, and that removing these spacers would allow the finger that the adjustment knob affects to block the orifices it affects earlier, giving more damping.

    From the other photos earlier in this thread it looks like the internals differ some between the fork models, but maybe this will give you a starting point.

  42. #192
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    Quote Originally Posted by vanderwheelstander View Post
    I have a Slide with the rl2 damper, and I have the opposite problem with rebound, in that it is too slow. I modified the stack of the triangular shims on the rebound piston, putting one of the small round spacers in between the two triangular shims, but it's still a little too slow. Click image for larger version. 

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    Additionally I found that there are spacers between the shaft of the damping rod and the rebound valve body, and that removing these spacers would allow the finger that the adjustment knob affects to block the orifices it affects earlier, giving more damping.

    From the other photos earlier in this thread it looks like the internals differ some between the fork models, but maybe this will give you a starting point.
    Is your fork an OEM or retail model?

  43. #193
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    My slide is a retail model. It was delivered in retail packaging, anyway. Purchased from eBay so its provenance can't be established.

    I'm planning to tear into it again today to open up the rebound even more, and to do two-one's mod to the high speed compression stack.

    zakkpw's problem, I'm re-reading, might be a lack of oil issue, although I'm not sure if he's experiencing it more in the fork or in the rear shock.

  44. #194
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    Ooops!

    Tinkered too much with the shims on my sweep. I rearranged the shims on the "high speed" stack a few times and used 2.5 wt oil. I liked the super plushness on slow rocky trails, stair steps, etc. as well as the fact that the lockout was now a softer trail mode. However, it tended to dive when braking, and on high speed runs, the fork actually felt better with the "soft" lockout on. Thus, I tried to reconfigure the stack to be more firm.
    When I tested the fork out, it felt ok, but now my lockout lever does nothing. Even when I returned the shims to stock configuration, the lever does not appear to change anything. I even changed back to 5wt Golden Spectro. I'm stumped. While I didnt really use the lockout lever before, the "trail mode" was very useful for me.
    I'll try to open up the fork and damper again and retrace my steps...again. Maybe I misplaced a shim somewhere, or forgot to tighten a bolt?
    SCB Nomad, SCB 5010v2, Turner RFX, Voodoo D-jab 650B, Voodoo Wazoo CX/commuter
    ...so far...

  45. #195
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    Quote Originally Posted by cobym2 View Post
    Tinkered too much with the shims on my sweep. I rearranged the shims on the "high speed" stack a few times and used 2.5 wt oil. I liked the super plushness on slow rocky trails, stair steps, etc. as well as the fact that the lockout was now a softer trail mode. However, it tended to dive when braking, and on high speed runs, the fork actually felt better with the "soft" lockout on. Thus, I tried to reconfigure the stack to be more firm.
    When I tested the fork out, it felt ok, but now my lockout lever does nothing. Even when I returned the shims to stock configuration, the lever does not appear to change anything. I even changed back to 5wt Golden Spectro. I'm stumped. While I didnt really use the lockout lever before, the "trail mode" was very useful for me.
    I'll try to open up the fork and damper again and retrace my steps...again. Maybe I misplaced a shim somewhere, or forgot to tighten a bolt?
    Your damper is apparently not blocking the oil flow... so first things first.. is there enough oil in your damper to submerge the piston? A lot of people fill an emptied damper, and forget to cycle the rebound piston a couple of times to make sure the space below the reboundpiston is filled with oil as well.
    Next, did you maybe reverse the compression piston? Or did you not stack the piston and shims in the correct order? it should be as follows:
    Compression Rod
    (3) 12x0.15mm shims
    (4) 18x0.15mm shims
    (1) 18x0.3mm ring shim around the 16x0.15mm shim (this creates preload)
    (1) 18x0.2mm shim (this is the faceshim, and should cover 6 out of 9 ports
    Piston
    (1) 18x0.? shim that covers the 3 other rebound ports
    (1) spring that pushes the shim with the narrow side down
    bolt.

    Let us know what you find out.

  46. #196
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    Cobym2, two-one has way more experience on this subject matter so start with his suggestions, but something that happened in my Slide (with remote lockout) is that the compression assembly was threaded to the top cap, and the nut holding my compression assembly to the top cap came loose, causing the whole assembly to rotate when applying the lockout rather than just the valve in the middle.

  47. #197
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    Quote Originally Posted by two-one View Post
    Your damper is apparently not blocking the oil flow... so first things first.. is there enough oil in your damper to submerge the piston? A lot of people fill an emptied damper, and forget to cycle the rebound piston a couple of times to make sure the space below the reboundpiston is filled with oil as well.
    Next, did you maybe reverse the compression piston? Or did you not stack the piston and shims in the correct order? it should be as follows:
    Compression Rod
    (3) 12x0.15mm shims
    (4) 18x0.15mm shims
    (1) 18x0.3mm ring shim around the 16x0.15mm shim (this creates preload)
    (1) 18x0.2mm shim (this is the faceshim, and should cover 6 out of 9 ports
    Piston
    (1) 18x0.? shim that covers the 3 other rebound ports
    (1) spring that pushes the shim with the narrow side down
    bolt.

    Let us know what you find out.
    Quote Originally Posted by vanderwheelstander View Post
    Cobym2, two-one has way more experience on this subject matter so start with his suggestions, but something that happened in my Slide (with remote lockout) is that the compression assembly was threaded to the top cap, and the nut holding my compression assembly to the top cap came loose, causing the whole assembly to rotate when applying the lockout rather than just the valve in the middle.
    Two one, vanderwheels:

    Thanks for the tips. I did as suggested. Everything was in its proper place. Correct orientation. As I mentioned, i already modded it previously several times and just wanted to firm it up a notch.
    But just now I noticed another problem while stripping it down. The lock out knob wont turn. Its frozen in place in the open position. I cant see why. The only reason I can imagine is that the tube containing the lockout rod has ovalized somehow, preventing the inner rod from turning, but I never clamped that tube at any time. Stumped again.

    Update: Just to make matters worse (or simpler), I managed to break the lockout rod at the knob-bolt. I now have a Sweep R, instead of an RL. x#@*G#%!!!!
    SCB Nomad, SCB 5010v2, Turner RFX, Voodoo D-jab 650B, Voodoo Wazoo CX/commuter
    ...so far...

  48. #198
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    Just an update. I swapped the damper body from my "broken" Sweep damper with the one from my Velvet RL2 on my hardtail. Fairly easy procedure: Just use the topcap and piston from the Sweep (larger diameter). Sweep is good to go again. The Velvet, however, had to take one for the team.
    SCB Nomad, SCB 5010v2, Turner RFX, Voodoo D-jab 650B, Voodoo Wazoo CX/commuter
    ...so far...

  49. #199
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    HELP - Broken Air Valve - X Fusion Velvet RL2 DLA

    Hi...

    I have a X Fusion Velvet RL2 DLA - very pleased with the fork - the thing is that i broke the air valve in the lower leg... don't ask how!!!

    Need to replace... do you know where to find the replacement part???

    Best Regards...

  50. #200
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fparra View Post
    Hi...

    I have a X Fusion Velvet RL2 DLA - very pleased with the fork - the thing is that i broke the air valve in the lower leg... don't ask how!!!

    Need to replace... do you know where to find the replacement part???

    Best Regards...
    Call xfusion directly. Santa cruz office. Its on their site.
    '14 rocky mountain altitude, rally edition
    '11 transition blindside, 650b converted

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