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  1. #201
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwyooaj View Post
    Call xfusion directly. Santa cruz office. Its on their site.
    I did at the same time that wrote at this forum... they are going to send me the valve with no charge... just paying freight...

    They have a great customer service...

    Thanks to this guys....

    to: John Valera <jvalera@xfusionshox.com>
    cc: Joel Smith <jsmith@xfusionshox.com>

  2. #202
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    HELP - Broken Air Valve - X Fusion Velvet RL2 DLA

    Just to let you know what I broke.... and beware in using the wrong air pump.

    I broke the Schrader Valve... as seen in the picture.. the black cap is for the valve I broke...

    I don´t have space to set the pump to the valve..

    official xfusion rl2 fork service and tuning thread-x-fusion-trace-fork-5.jpg

  3. #203
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    Deleted...shims gone.
    Last edited by Ramjm_2000; 03-18-2015 at 09:50 AM.

  4. #204
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    Hey guys, I need some help here. I've recently developed quite a bit of play in my front end to the point where it feels like a loose headset. I tightened the headset and it's still there. When I apply the front brake and rock the front back and forth there is quite a bit of play. Has anyone experienced significant bushing play with their RL2s? Mine's a Sweep. Thanks

  5. #205
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carrera911xc View Post
    Hey guys, I need some help here. I've recently developed quite a bit of play in my front end to the point where it feels like a loose headset. I tightened the headset and it's still there. When I apply the front brake and rock the front back and forth there is quite a bit of play. Has anyone experienced significant bushing play with their RL2s? Mine's a Sweep. Thanks
    Take a look into the the brake bolts also... and then into the rotor bolts... and then into the hub... same happen to me in the rear and at the end was the hub...

    good luck...

  6. #206
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    If anybody is looking to part out a Velvet lower with 15mm thru axle (Syntace), please PM me. I'm looking to convert my QR Velvet.

    I imagine there are some forks laying around with broken dampers/air rod assemblies collecting dust...

  7. #207
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carrera911xc View Post
    Hey guys, I need some help here. I've recently developed quite a bit of play in my front end to the point where it feels like a loose headset. I tightened the headset and it's still there. When I apply the front brake and rock the front back and forth there is quite a bit of play. Has anyone experienced significant bushing play with their RL2s? Mine's a Sweep. Thanks
    I have this same issue on a Marzocchi. I checked headset, brakes, hub etc. It is definitely play between the uppers and lowers. Apparently it's bushing wear internally, but it can't be rebuilt according to the Marzocchi tech dept. Which sucks.

    Hopefully the X-fusion can be rebuilt rather than having to buy new lowers.

  8. #208
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    Thanks to the guys at xfusion cal... they sent to me via usps the air valve... in my LBS mexico city (BikeSpeed) they install the new one.

    All is fine and ready to go...

    official xfusion rl2 fork service and tuning thread-15032015.jpg

  9. #209
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    Does anyone knows where I can find upgrade dampers for:
    OEM forks: Sweep
    OEM Shock: O2R

    Probably some online store?

    Except official site, cause they do upgrade only for US only

    Thank you in advance

  10. #210
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    Quote Originally Posted by zephxiii View Post
    Check it out: Instagram

    Only 5 dollars!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    That link is dead but here are some pictures of mine in case anyone is interested. It is the RL2 Damper Tool for consumer use.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails official xfusion rl2 fork service and tuning thread-20150410_212336.jpg  

    official xfusion rl2 fork service and tuning thread-20150410_212320.jpg  

    official xfusion rl2 fork service and tuning thread-20150410_212301.jpg  

    official xfusion rl2 fork service and tuning thread-20150410_212420.jpg  


  11. #211
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    Alright...time for me to do my first lowers service on my Slant, and I just re-read the entire thread. I have the X-fusion tool, so that shall make things a bit easier. New seals come in the mail today.

    I am tempted to tinker with shims a bit, but am a complete novice at this side of things. A few opinions would be welcome here.

    WHAT I WANT TO ACHIEVE: I want some more small bump compliance. I don't know if I am just paying more attention to it, or if things have actually worsened with time, but I want it to be a bit more plush with just routine small roots/rocks while at normal speed. Everything is great with bigger hits, and I have no full travel issues. I just want A BIT more plushness without over doing it.

    What would you guys do to achieve this? Mess with oil weights (2.5wt)? Mess with shims (place a small shim between the 10mm and the 8mm)? Both?
    X-prezo Super-D, 26in style.

  12. #212
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    I noticed "some" more small bump compliance with lighter oil in the dampening cartridge.
    Probably what your after.

  13. #213
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    Quote Originally Posted by kneecap View Post
    I noticed "some" more small bump compliance with lighter oil in the dampening cartridge.
    Probably what your after.
    Alright. Just had a weekend of tinkering and wanted to report in.

    I am by no means a suspension expert, but I feel some significant improvements in small bump compliance after doing the following:

    1) Lowers service. The air side had lost almost all of the 15ml of lowers oil missing. This could contribute to loss of small bump compliance. New seals installed and new lowers oil installed (7wt 15ml each side). I also dumped 5ml on top of the air spring.

    2) Placed small shim between 10mm shim and 8mm shim. New damper oil installed (only had 5wt light, 70ml).

    Immediate improvement in small bump compliance. Fork felt better than day 1.

    Overall, super pleased. Not a super hard service.
    X-prezo Super-D, 26in style.

  14. #214
    kneecap
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    what's the shim rearrangement aimed at? Maybe more mid range support, or?

  15. #215
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    Quote Originally Posted by kneecap View Post
    what's the shim rearrangement aimed at? Maybe more mid range support, or?
    Better small bump compliance
    X-prezo Super-D, 26in style.

  16. #216
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    I serviced my Slant for the first time yesterday. It was easy and went well for most of the process. My only problem is that I have not been able to unscrew the midvalve cup for the life of me. I have tried the rubber glove tip and pliers. I stopped before damaging the cup. Can anyone share tips on how they did it? I really want to tune the midvalve to reduce the low speed compression thru the shims stack.

  17. #217
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    Nightnerd, when I first did it I used pliers, maybe i scuffed up the outside of teh cup with the plier teeth but that kind of damage i dont think interferes with the function in any way. (Caveat, your results may vary so im only saying waht worked for me, not definitely saying it will work for you...i guess if you squeeze too hard you could deform teh cup?) You could try vicegrips...locked just tight enough to grip the cup without deforming it.
    '14 rocky mountain altitude, rally edition
    '11 transition blindside, 650b converted

  18. #218
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    not getting full travel

    I have an xfusion slant set to 150mm.
    If I let all the air out I can compress the fork easily until it bottoms with about 10mm of stanchion visible.
    But no matter what I do I cannot use the last 20 or 25mm of actual travel while riding.
    If I put in a ridiculously low amount of air I could use it but the bike would be unrideable.

    Any ideas?

  19. #219
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    Quote Originally Posted by ac1000 View Post
    I have an xfusion slant set to 150mm.
    If I let all the air out I can compress the fork easily until it bottoms with about 10mm of stanchion visible.
    But no matter what I do I cannot use the last 20 or 25mm of actual travel while riding.
    If I put in a ridiculously low amount of air I could use it but the bike would be unrideable.

    Any ideas?
    Maybe try pumping them up to the required pressure and then insert the pointy end of a very small cable tie under the air seal of each leg to remove any built up pressure in the lowers.

    The only other thing I can think of is to check your air spring and see if there is excess oil in there limiting travel. But if this was the case, it would still limit travel with no air in the forks.

  20. #220
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigdook View Post
    Maybe try pumping them up to the required pressure and then insert the pointy end of a very small cable tie under the air seal of each leg to remove any built up pressure in the lowers.

    The only other thing I can think of is to check your air spring and see if there is excess oil in there limiting travel. But if this was the case, it would still limit travel with no air in the forks.
    Yeah I've checked both of those areas. No excess oil on top of the air spring. I've tried the zip tie and let all pressure out through the bottom nuts with the fork fully compressed.
    that didn't change anythimg .

  21. #221
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    Thanks Dwyooaj, I'll go a bit firmer with the pliers and see if I can get the damn thing to budge. If anyone else had success unscrewing the mildvalve cup using another method, please share!

  22. #222
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    Anyone ever had an issue removing the air spring base plate? Pulled my sweep apart to adjust the travel, but cannot get the plate to budge. Had a local shop give it a try as well but nothing. A bit worried at this point.

  23. #223
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr KennethNoisewater View Post
    Anyone ever had an issue removing the air spring base plate? Pulled my sweep apart to adjust the travel, but cannot get the plate to budge. Had a local shop give it a try as well but nothing. A bit worried at this point.
    Base plate meaning getting the actual air-spring assembly to come out the cottom, ot getting the baseplate for travel adjust to move?
    Pictures...

  24. #224
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    This fella:

    official xfusion rl2 fork service and tuning thread-889718d1398907885-official-xfusion-rl2-fork-service-tuning-thread-unnamed-32-.jpg

  25. #225
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr KennethNoisewater View Post
    Anyone ever had an issue removing the air spring base plate? Pulled my sweep apart to adjust the travel, but cannot get the plate to budge. Had a local shop give it a try as well but nothing. A bit worried at this point.
    I had the same issue and was about to pull my hair our until I tried some penetrating oil. I let it soak in for a while and then it popped open.
    Also the red park pin spanner I had didn't seem to fit well.
    But the green park spanner fit perfectly in the smaller sets of holes.

  26. #226
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    Quote Originally Posted by ac1000 View Post
    I had the same issue and was about to pull my hair our until I tried some penetrating oil. I let it soak in for a while and then it popped open.
    Good to hear. I was a bit worried about using any for fear of eating seals. How exactly did you apply it?

    Thanks for the quick reply!

  27. #227
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    I just sprayed it at the juncture of the stanchions and the cap and then wiped up the excess.
    I doubted that it would work but it made all the difference for me.

  28. #228
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwyooaj View Post
    Nightnerd, when I first did it I used pliers, maybe i scuffed up the outside of teh cup with the plier teeth but that kind of damage i dont think interferes with the function in any way. (Caveat, your results may vary so im only saying waht worked for me, not definitely saying it will work for you...i guess if you squeeze too hard you could deform teh cup?) You could try vicegrips...locked just tight enough to grip the cup without deforming it.
    Hey, just wanted to thank you again for the tip and the amazing "how to" and tuning thread. I managed to unscrew the midvalve cup using pliers. It ended up being super easy and there was no damage done.

    I was lucky enough to buy a set of your shims from another member so I installed one instead of the current midvalve face shim. I also moved a smaller shim right under that new face shim.

    For the lock out stack , I followed two-one's tune excepted that I went for this stack :

    18x0.2
    18x0.15 (3)
    18x0.3 + 16x0.15 (ring and centering shim)
    18x0.15 (1)
    12x0.15 (4)

    No real trail testing yet but there is still quite a firm platform that is a lot more active than the lock-out.

    Can someone tell me if rearranging the lock-out stack in such way has an impact on the overall compression damping or if it only affect the lock theshold?

  29. #229
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    I see at least one person broke the top of the lock out shaft off (I assume while tightening/loosening it but he replaced his with one he scavenged from an old Vengence.

    Mine also broke off. The blue lock out cap/knob blew off while riding. After spending an hour or two reading through this thread I suspect this may have happened as a result of too much trapped air in the damper side combined with a hard bottom out.

    Is this possible?

    Can I just buy the lock out cartridge / damper from Xfusion and replace it myself?
    Last edited by KRob; 05-26-2015 at 03:40 PM.
    I will cause thee to ride upon the high places of the earth...
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  30. #230
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    So I just talked to X Fusion service and they said it would be "impossible" for the built up air in the damper side to blow off the lock out cap unless the top of the damper rod was damaged or cracked from a hard blow to the cap. This makes sense as I did crash hard further up the hill (also sprained my knee) while hitting a log (don't ask).

    Anyway they're sending me out a new upper half of the damper cartridge for $35.00. Sounds like it shouldn't be too tricky to replace with the great help/info in this thread.

    I'll be back with questions when it comes if I have trouble.

    Great resource.
    Last edited by KRob; 06-16-2015 at 04:31 PM.
    I will cause thee to ride upon the high places of the earth...
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  31. #231
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    I broke the top of the upper shaft off (black fork cap and lock out circuit) and X fusion sent me a new one, but I can't seem to remove the upper shaft from the base valve.
    I hold the oil tube/shaft with the 19mm cone wrench on the wrench flats then turn the upper shaft with a pair of channel locks but the shaft just spins... doesn't unthread.

    Do I have to remove the base valve from the oil tube shaft first, then unscrew the base valve and mid-valve cup off from the upper /lock out shaft?

    I thought I read where someone had replaced this in the tuning thread but now I can't find it.

    Here's a link to the photo of the damper and the new part.
    Last edited by KRob; 06-05-2015 at 08:09 PM.
    I will cause thee to ride upon the high places of the earth...
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  32. #232
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    So does no one know the answer to this or have I just worded it awkwardly so no one knows what the heck I'm talking about?
    I'm resisting calling X-Fusion because the tech I talked to was a little condescending and treated me like I didn't know anything.... which apparently was partly true. :0) Hate to go back and admit it.... but if no one has removed/replaced this part before, I guess I'll have to call them.
    I will cause thee to ride upon the high places of the earth...
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  33. #233
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    I think you have to unscrew the shaft from the base valve, unscrew the "mid-valve" cup, and use a very flat 12? mm wrench on the wrench flats underneath to unscrew the base valve then it all comes apart-watch out for a spring, and the high-speed shim stack! Look at Two-One's pic on page 7, everythings apart and the top piece is apart from the rest and looks exactly like the part xfusion sent you.
    '14 rocky mountain altitude, rally edition
    '11 transition blindside, 650b converted

  34. #234
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwyooaj View Post
    I think you have to unscrew the shaft from the base valve, unscrew the "mid-valve" cup, and use a very flat 12? mm wrench on the wrench flats underneath to unscrew the base valve then it all comes apart-watch out for a spring, and the high-speed shim stack! Look at Two-One's pic on page 7, everythings apart and the top piece is apart from the rest and looks exactly like the part xfusion sent you.
    Cool, thanks. I was starting to suspect that that was the case. However, reviewing your steps for disassembling the lower shaft from the base valve, I see you hold the upper shaft by using the 28mm socket on the top cap. That's the part that's broken off on mine. If I just grip the upper shaft with pliers it just spins without unthreading. Options?
    I will cause thee to ride upon the high places of the earth...
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  35. #235
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    The circle of metal with the o-ring, just above the oil tube: Grip with pliers and a sheet of rubber very very carefully with the plier teeth on the flat top/bottom so you dont damage the o-ring or the o-ring groove. Then , unscrew oil tube. You might even be able to unscrew the oil tube by holding that plate in your hand tightly with a rubber glove.
    '14 rocky mountain altitude, rally edition
    '11 transition blindside, 650b converted

  36. #236
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    While youre at it, you can try two-ones mod to the high speed shimstack!
    '14 rocky mountain altitude, rally edition
    '11 transition blindside, 650b converted

  37. #237
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    Why not use shaft clamps and a vise?
    ...

  38. #238
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    Quote Originally Posted by Deerhill View Post
    Why not use shaft clamps and a vise?
    We're not real mechanics so don't have all those fancy tools.

    The thick rubber glove gripping the mid-valve assembly while turning the 19mm wrench flats on the oil shaft did the trick (I removed the rubber O-ring while doing this so as not to damage it).

    I did do two-one's high speed/lock out shim stack mod while I was in there (but I moved two shims down for a softer "trail mode" hopefully) and dwyooaj's low speed mod as well. Waiting on the 28mm flat wrench from A-tech Fab so I can remove the broken top cap from the damper side and then install the new modified damper assembly.

    I'll report back when I've got it reassembled and have a little ride time on it.

    Thanks again for all the help everyone. (Glad I saved the Float 32 that came with my 5010 so I haven't been out of commission this week).
    I will cause thee to ride upon the high places of the earth...
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  39. #239
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    First I'd like to say thanks to all the heroes who've contributed to this awesome thread and forum. Due to the stuck down problems and lack of serviceably with the DLA airspring I'm sending my slant back to X fusion to swap in a regular airspring. My question is: should I pay the extra $90 to have them rebuild the dampener? Or do I attempt to do it myself and do the shim stack mods at the same time? I'm mechanically inclined, I have misc automotive tools and reading through the thread the job doesn't seem too bad. Stated another way: is the mod worth purchasing the necessary bike tools tearing apart the fork?

    Also, does anyone know if Xfusion does anything special during the rebuild we can't do at home? Like refill a secret "butter" port for an extra smooth ride...

  40. #240
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    Quote Originally Posted by PurpleMtnSlayer View Post
    First I'd like to say thanks to all the heroes who've contributed to this awesome thread and forum. Due to the stuck down problems and lack of serviceably with the DLA airspring I'm sending my slant back to X fusion to swap in a regular airspring. My question is: should I pay the extra $90 to have them rebuild the dampener? Or do I attempt to do it myself and do the shim stack mods at the same time? I'm mechanically inclined, I have misc automotive tools and reading through the thread the job doesn't seem too bad. Stated another way: is the mod worth purchasing the necessary bike tools tearing apart the fork?

    Also, does anyone know if Xfusion does anything special during the rebuild we can't do at home? Like refill a secret "butter" port for an extra smooth ride...
    Pay the $90, then take it apart and tell us what they do!!!!!!!! I don't think anyone officially knows what they do, so your contribution could be the answer!
    X-prezo Super-D, 26in style.

  41. #241
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    Quote Originally Posted by KRob View Post
    The thick rubber glove gripping the mid-valve assembly while turning the 19mm wrench flats on the oil shaft did the trick (I removed the rubber O-ring while doing this so as not to damage it).
    I must have some dainty little hands, or X-Fusion used super glue / lock-tite on mine, but for the life of me I can't get the damned mid-valve cap off. I'm probably going to have to shell out for a set of rubber/silicon vice jaws like these...

    Bessey Vice Jaws

    Speaking of, actually, is anyone using a particular thin 12mm wrench for this?

  42. #242
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    So RL2 damper just failed on my Slant....catastrophically.

    I was doing some of the bigger jumps at a local trail, and overshot a lander bottoming front and rear HARD. A loud "ping/explosion" sound and my fork was immediately a pogo-stick. I look down and my blue lockout top cap was nowhere to be seen, and there was a hole centrally with fork oil spewing out of it. The damper just exploded.

    Luckily the projectile of a top cap didn't hit me (I couldn't find it but it could have shot into outer space for all I know), but this weekend I am going to take things apart and hope that only the top section of the damper exploded.

    Weird thing is I have bottomed out several times before...not this hard but hard enough to hear the stanchions hitting the bottom out bumper and making a noise. No explosions then. So I don't think an overfilled damper was the issue. No idea but I talked to X-fusion and I'm going to send them some pictures and videos this weekend.

    Luckily my buddy was filming our jump session and he caught the incident on camera. I am in the background so things are far away, but you can hear the sound of destruction from a mile away.

    I will upload everything here when he gets it to me and I get some pictures of the fork disassembled.

    Lost a bit of faith in this fork today...no doubt. Too bad I don't have $800 to drop on a Pike or MRP Stage.
    X-prezo Super-D, 26in style.

  43. #243
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    Original version (I am in the back): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2GDL-VOBHEk

    Slow motion zoomed in blurry version: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GatQGWbYrnE


    That sound still makes me cringe.
    X-prezo Super-D, 26in style.

  44. #244
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    Here is my damper. Not looking good.


    official xfusion rl2 fork service and tuning thread-eyeielr.jpg
    official xfusion rl2 fork service and tuning thread-ro4o5yd.jpg
    official xfusion rl2 fork service and tuning thread-tqilihc.jpg
    official xfusion rl2 fork service and tuning thread-mjkvoct.jpg
    official xfusion rl2 fork service and tuning thread-uv9dd2u.jpg
    X-prezo Super-D, 26in style.

  45. #245
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    Just an update: X-fusion is shipping me out an upper damper for $20. Should get me back up and running. Excellent customer service. Not sure why this happened in the first place, but possibly I overfilled with oil when servicing last?
    X-prezo Super-D, 26in style.

  46. #246
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    Quote Originally Posted by y0bailey View Post
    Here is my damper. Not looking good.


    Click image for larger version. 

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    Yep, that's exactly what mine did. Looked just like that. I was able to replace just the top of the damper for $35. Went in and reshuffled some shims according to recommendations on this thread to gain some small bump sensitivity and turn the lock out into a "trail" mode while I was in there. I was waiting for a 28mm flat wrench and thin 12mm cone wrench to tighten everything up before final reassembly.

    I'd be interested to know if you had been losing travel over the past few rides or not getting full travel before this happened. I had noticed this on mine and according to some previous threads the loss of travel/lack of full travel was air built up inside the damper so I thought that might have been the cause of the cap blowing off but the tech at X-Fusion said that was impossible unless the top of the damper rod had been cracked from a blow to the top cap in a crash.
    (I had just crashed into a log 1/2 mile up the hill before this happened so that explanation seemed plausible).
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  47. #247
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    KRob,

    Where did you get the 12mm cone wrench? I am having trouble locating it.

    Also, WHERE are you going to place it to tighten things up? I don't see the area you would place it? Could you throw a little arrow on one of the above pictures to show me where?

    I had no travel loss prior to my damper exploding. I did bottom out about as hard as physically possible so that may explain it. Still not 100% why this happened, but it wasn't pleasant. It isn't impossible that I slightly overfilled the damper, but I did measure out 70cc pretty closely. Maybe I didn't have it fully emptied prior to rebuild?
    X-prezo Super-D, 26in style.

  48. #248
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    Quote Originally Posted by y0bailey View Post
    KRob,

    Where did you get the 12mm cone wrench? I am having trouble locating it.

    Also, WHERE are you going to place it to tighten things up? I don't see the area you would place it? Could you throw a little arrow on one of the above pictures to show me where?

    I had no travel loss prior to my damper exploding. I did bottom out about as hard as physically possible so that may explain it. Still not 100% why this happened, but it wasn't pleasant. It isn't impossible that I slightly overfilled the damper, but I did measure out 70cc pretty closely. Maybe I didn't have it fully emptied prior to rebuild?
    I didn't end up needing the 12 mm thin wrench to disassemble the upper shaft from the mid-valve. After removing the oil shaft from the mid valve with a 19mm wrench on the wrench flats of the oil shaft and gripping the large diameter high speed valve with a thick rubber glove (after removing the O-ring), I used channel lock pliers with the teeth padded with an old inner tube on the low speed cup shown in this photo. Again, twisting with the rubber glove on the big high speed valve, the two parts unthreaded.
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    Disclaimer: When it does come apart watch for the spring and all the small shims and review two-one's pictorial on page 7 as to how to put them back together in the stock sequence or modified to reduce the blow off on the lock out.

    If you can hold the thin 12 mm bolt just above this low speed cup shown in the picture with a cone wrench, then the bolt that holds the high speed stack to the upper shaft will unscrew without having to grip the low speed cup with pliers.

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    When I did it the bolt came out of the upper shaft with the low speed cup still attached. Once that was out I was able to get a regular 12mm end wrench on that thin bolt and I held the low speed cup the the channel locks and removed the cup from the bolt. Then I could access the low speed shim stack as shown on page 1.


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  49. #249
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    I have a Trace with damaged the threads of the drive side (see picture). Does anyone knows how to dissemble the shown part and replace it? Is there any oil involved in that chamber?
    I have the spare part but I'm trying to find some guideline before I start open staff
    Thank you
    official xfusion rl2 fork service and tuning thread-image001.jpg

  50. #250
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    Alright everyone, I have info first-hand from the excellent folks at X-fusion to clarify some of the information out there.

    Of course doing any of these things voids your warranty, so don't get mad at them if you mess something up. They treated me very well when I could have potentially been the culprit of causing my fork to have an issue. X-fusion wins my $ for a long time.

    Confirmed volumes of oil for the SLANT: RSF light is the correct fluid and 70cc is about right. You just want to make sure the c-clip is just submerged when the damper has had all the air cycled out.

    Confirmed on the "firm tune" removing the lockout function to a firm/open setting: If you want a firm tune it should look like this: Shaft, 18 x .20, (2x)18 x .15, (3x)12 x .20, 18 x .15, ring and 16 x 1.5, 18 x .15, piston, check shim, spring, mid valve bolt assembly.
    X-prezo Super-D, 26in style.

  51. #251
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    Thanks y0bailey. I think I put about 70 ml in mine (some overflowed when I was cycling the damper) and the c-clip looked like it was submerged after I added a bit more (maybe 25ml).

    Got everything back together and the fork mounted. Quick spin around the drive way and it does feel plush on initial stroke. I had to raise the air pressure to 70-72 lbs to keep it from diving and bottoming easily but that didn't seem to hurt the small bump sensitivity. I was running closer to 60 psi before the rebuild.

    A couple issues so far. Either I didn't get enough oil in to cover the lock out port or my mod basically created an "open/open" switch because I can't feel any difference between open and locked out now. I did move the ring and 16x1.5 spacer shim up three spots on the stack instead of two as you and two-one suggested so maybe that was too much. I'll ride it out on the trails and see if I can tell a difference.

    Also, my foot nut on the bottom of the damper side is weeping oil now. Did I miss an o-ring our squish washer on reassembly? All I saw was the small o-ring on the bottom of the damper rod which should seal from the inside, but there wasn't anything between the fork lowers and the base nut.
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  52. #252
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    This is a great thread.
    Before I read it…. I took my Slide RL apart last night because I wasn't getting full travel (set to 120 but only traveling about half that even with zero air. No weird sounds or anything, just a firm stop.
    I’m still not sure why this was happening as everything looked fine on the air side, but in the process of doing this the damper footnut is finally toast (it was barely hanging on).
    Anyway, I wanted to take the threads of the damper shaft to the store to match up a replacement nut. In my haste I simply disassembled the damper assembly by removing the baseplate. Oil gushed out and the bottom portion of the damper easily came out.
    Now, in looking a pics/instructions in this thread, this doesn’t seem right. Shouldn’t the damper assembly be one piece until you unscrew it? Maybe this is why it wasn’t getting full travel?

  53. #253
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    Idea! Damper shaft part

    Hello!

    Excuse me for my bad English.
    I'm ride Commencal Meta HT AM 2 (2014) with fork X-Fusion Velvet RL2.
    After change oil i broken damper shaft.
    Where i can buy this part or how i can fix it?

    official xfusion rl2 fork service and tuning thread-vtei_rtblju.jpgofficial xfusion rl2 fork service and tuning thread-y0u0guf-bry.jpg

  54. #254
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    Quote Originally Posted by gladiolus21vek View Post
    Hello!

    Excuse me for my bad English.
    I'm ride Commencal Meta HT AM 2 (2014) with fork X-Fusion Velvet RL2.
    After change oil i broken damper shaft.
    Where i can buy this part or how i can fix it?

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    You should be able to get a replacement from whichever factory service center is closest to you that is listed here.
    X Fusion Shox - Distributors & Service Centers

  55. #255
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    Quote Originally Posted by huckleberry hound View Post
    You should be able to get a replacement from whichever factory service center is closest to you that is listed here.
    X Fusion Shox - Distributors & Service Centers
    Thank you!
    How many it can cost? Is it a guarantee case?
    Should I change the damper entirely or only a shaft?

  56. #256
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    AHHH My trusty thread on X Fusion. Looking for some advice. I've been on this thread before. So I have a trace 29er and been on it for quite some time. I recently bottomed the fork out pretty harshly. Heard a good bang and when it rebounded (in mid air) I felt kind of a clunk (almost like a pause) before it fully extended. Ever since then, I've been playing around with it and the fork seems divey and twitchy. There's no loss of air or an see any oil. The lock out and rebound works. Do you guys think my damper is blown?

  57. #257
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    Quick update: I sent my slant dal into the factory to have it switched to a regular air spring, xfusion gave me the parts, but I had to pay labor. However, I paid for a full rebuild so labor to switch the spring was incl with the service. I also went for the factory tune for $50. I am very happy with the way the fork feels, its more plush on the small stuff, yet seems to ride higher up in the travel. That being said the factory tune is in no way a custom tune as the rep seemed uninterested in how I wanted the fork to perform differently, my riding style or even my size. I must say xfusion has great customer service, but I was a little disappointed in lack of detail here. I'll be sure to hop back on here to post pics and a description of what the "factory tune" really is when I open it up in a couple months. Cheers.

  58. #258
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    Question, I took apart a 2015 X Fusion Trace 29er fork in order to adjust the travel from 100 to 140. Had quite a time getting the damper pulled through without the proprietary tool, but finally got it. This took a few tries and hours of aggravation of taking lowers on and off trying to figure it out, therefore re-filling oil each time. Anyway, all back together, seems good to go, EXCEPT, now the lockout isn't working. :-( Any ideas what I could have done to cause that?

  59. #259
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    Hi, I just did a travel adjust on my Sweep RL2. After getting it all back together it seems like the damper isn't working properly. First, I noticed that after the fork compresses it rebounds abruptly and there is an audible "knocking" type sound. Second, the lockout has no effect. I used the $5 tool from X-Fusion to unseat and reseat the damper. Seams like when reseating it you really need to crank it hard to pull the damper into the lowers. I'm worried the threads will strip or some other damage is going to happen. Is this normal? Am I completely off base on how to reseat the damper? Thanks!

  60. #260
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    Quote Originally Posted by gibsonlespaulspecial View Post
    Hi, I just did a travel adjust on my Sweep RL2. After getting it all back together it seems like the damper isn't working properly. First, I noticed that after the fork compresses it rebounds abruptly and there is an audible "knocking" type sound. Second, the lockout has no effect. I used the $5 tool from X-Fusion to unseat and reseat the damper. Seams like when reseating it you really need to crank it hard to pull the damper into the lowers. I'm worried the threads will strip or some other damage is going to happen. Is this normal? Am I completely off base on how to reseat the damper? Thanks!
    Did you take the damper apart of just remove the nut from the bottom to slip the lowers off? If all you did was remove the nut the damper would be untouched and should work exactly as it did before.
    Did you burp the lowers?
    -Remove air from fork.
    -Compress all the way.
    -While compressed slide a greased ziptie down between the stanchion and wiper. You'll hear a little hiss. This is air making it's way into the negative chamber. Do this for both sides.
    -Inflate air spring and test again.

    You shouldn't have to work too hard to get the damper seated into the lower again. It will provide some resistance as it moves through the hole in the lower, I think there is a rubber bottom out bumper it has to go through which causes the resistance.

  61. #261
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    Umm., that hiss isnt air going into a negative chamber. Its trapped air escaping from the lowers, which can make the fork feel firm if not bled out in the manner described. Xfusion addressed this in newer/expensive forks like the metric with a equalizing valve.

  62. #262
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    Does anyone know the correct damper oil volume for a Velvet or probably any other 32mm RL2 fork?

    I put 70ml in and it locked out at about 50% travel so I've just kinda winged it by getting as much in there as I can while still being able to fully compress the damper rod. The lockout and rebound dials work so I guess it's ok. If noone knows I'll measure it next time I change and post here.

    I replaced the OEM damper fluid (14.5 cSt @ 40 degrees) with Rock Oil 2.5wt (~10 cSt @ 40 degrees) because I didn't want to pull anything apart. No chance to ride yet.

  63. #263
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwyooaj View Post
    Umm., that hiss isnt air going into a negative chamber. Its trapped air escaping from the lowers, which can make the fork feel firm if not bled out in the manner described. Xfusion addressed this in newer/expensive forks like the metric with a equalizing valve.
    That's right, thanks for catching that.

  64. #264
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    OK well after a do-over everything seems to work ok. Not sure what I did differently, but after I was done I messed with the rebound adjustment to see if that had any effect, and that did seem to work, then after a couple minutes the lockout worked also.

    Not sure what the difference was the second time around, but at least I know the proper way to unseat/reseat the damper. You simply need to thread the removal tool on a few turns short of fully tight so that there is a gap between the tool and the lowers. Whack the tool to unseat it, loosen the tool a bit, whack it again, repeat until the tool is completely unthreaded and the dampler fully unseated. To reseat it, just screw the tool until the damper is pulled all the way into the lowers and the tool is threaded fully tight. Seems obvious now but this is my first time taking apart a fork so pretty clueless going in and just followed the video on x fusion's website.

    Thanks to all contributing to this thread!

  65. #265
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    What do I need to do to minimze stiction? I put a fairly generous coat of grease on the main air seal and the lowers seals. My sweep seems a lot stickier than my rear shock (RP23 kashima).

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    Quote Originally Posted by gibsonlespaulspecial View Post
    What do I need to do to minimze stiction? I put a fairly generous coat of grease on the main air seal and the lowers seals. My sweep seems a lot stickier than my rear shock (RP23 kashima).
    What I've been doing is regular applications of finish line stanchion lube. I maybe use it as often as I lube my chain and its back to feeling great.
    I don't know why my slant needs this product while other forks don't but I'm ok with the solution.

  67. #267
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    I ordered some enduro seals and might finally try ripping into the damper.

    Has anyone done a mid-valve mod for the Velvet RL2 (as opposed to the larger models shown in this thread's pictures)? Just hoping to have a game-plan. My goal is to make the fork a little more supple on small bumps without causing major brake dive. I can only assume removing the mid-valve all together would cause nasty brake dive, unless anybody chimes in.
    Otherwise I guess it's a matter of removing 1 or 2 shims from the stack (and not replacing them with anything else?)

    sorry for the Q's, but most of the replies I see are not geared so much toward the Velvet.

    I did have X-fusion convert the lockout to a FIRM mode while they had it.
    Should this more or less be what Two-One showed in his high-speed mod? - From what I gather, this 'trail' mode would be a firm mode? I am assuming this would not have involved modifying the open mode to be any softer.

    Would this non-lockout mod likely change the low speed shim stack mod that dwyooaj first showed to open up the mid-valve? I am gathering that they would act independently.

    I probably should do this mod anyway, as it has a little clunk in it every time the fork compresses to the half way point (it has done this ever since the first time I got it back from the factory service). It does this even at slow speed while standing over the bike and pushing down. One thought is the damper pieces aren't connected tightly.

    . My thought on this is, if I can made the initial stroke on this fork softer, I can run the pressure up closer to what the chart calls for. As is, I'm running it at 65, altho that's not too low for someone 30 lbs lighter than me, it still causes the negative spring to suck some of the fork down.

    ----------------
    *Edit* Removing unproductive rant to keep things constructive.
    Last edited by ztbishop; 08-23-2015 at 08:41 PM.

  68. #268
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhillipJ View Post

    I replaced the OEM damper fluid (14.5 cSt @ 40 degrees) with Rock Oil 2.5wt (~10 cSt @ 40 degrees) because I didn't want to pull anything apart. No chance to ride yet.
    Can't tell much difference between the OEM and lighter damper fluid. Any reduced low-speed damping could easily be because I also changed the splash oil and greased everything.

    Probably going to try the high-speed stack mod next.

  69. #269
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    Quote Originally Posted by ztbishop View Post


    I did have X-fusion convert the lockout to a FIRM mode while they had it.
    Should this more or less be what Two-One showed in his high-speed mod? - From what I gather, this 'trail' mode would be a firm mode? I am assuming this would not have involved modifying the open mode to be any softer.
    I don't *think* that's correct. Hopefully someone will correct me if I'm wrong but I think the blue lockout dial/lever on top of the damper opens and closes the low-speed compression ports.

    The high speed compression circuit is kept closed by the shim stack until there's enough force which is either "blowing off" the lockout (low speed closed) or transitioning from low speed circuit to high speed circuit (low speed port flowing as much as it can).

    So I would expect that making the lockout firm rather than the out-of-the-box very hard would also soften high speed compression overall.


    If I'm wrong I'd love a correction before I go rearranging the high speed stack on my Velvet.

  70. #270
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    Has anybody tried a different oil than the recommended 7.5 WT and other dust wipers?

  71. #271
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    Quote Originally Posted by fantozzi View Post
    Has anybody tried a different oil than the recommended 7.5 WT and other dust wipers?
    For the lowers?

    I'm running Mobil 1 5w-30 on stock seals. Runs better if you ask me.
    Check my Site

  72. #272
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    Thanks...yes for the lowers.

  73. #273
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    I have 3 rides on my new 2014 Slide and I'm still dialing it in. Such an upgrade from my RS coil fork but my lock-out adjustment moves a little too easily. Half-way through a rooty, rocky New England ride, my teeth are rattling because I'm 3/4 of the way locked-out. I tried the allen screw on the top and it's perfectly tight. X-Fusion CS suggested I send it in for inspection/repair. Any thoughts on this?

  74. #274
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    I would send it in. Mine has no issues with the lockout. Get it fixed while it is under warranty.

  75. #275
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    RL2 damper has no part way, it's just like the RL dampers on Fox, it's either on or off, so I'd send it in to them. Have several of their forks with the RL2 damper and can honestly say I've never experienced this, looking forward to when I have the cash to upgrade to the Trace with the new Rough Cut damper.

    Quote Originally Posted by Arebee View Post
    I have 3 rides on my new 2014 Slide and I'm still dialing it in. Such an upgrade from my RS coil fork but my lock-out adjustment moves a little too easily. Half-way through a rooty, rocky New England ride, my teeth are rattling because I'm 3/4 of the way locked-out. I tried the allen screw on the top and it's perfectly tight. X-Fusion CS suggested I send it in for inspection/repair. Any thoughts on this?
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  76. #276
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    Yeah, my RockShox took some effort to flip the lockout switch. The Slide switch flips on and off easier than you could flip a light switch. I'm going to send it in.

  77. #277
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    Quick question; do you guys think heavier riders would benefit more or benefit less from rearranging the shim stack? I've been looking into modifications since before I even bought the fork, but I wonder if my heavier weight might lessen the benefits of modifying the damper. I only have one day of riding on the new fork so far, so its a long way off from being broken in yet. Running a sweep RL2 on my hardtail at 130mm, 115 psi, and 230 riding weight.

  78. #278
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    Hello! So I've adjusted the travel and serviced the lowers a couple times, but sometimes when I get it all back together, the damper is completely missing from the picture. No compression/rebound, lockout, nothing. Any ideas? Thanks!

  79. #279
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arebee View Post
    I have 3 rides on my new 2014 Slide and I'm still dialing it in. Such an upgrade from my RS coil fork but my lock-out adjustment moves a little too easily. Half-way through a rooty, rocky New England ride, my teeth are rattling because I'm 3/4 of the way locked-out. I tried the allen screw on the top and it's perfectly tight. X-Fusion CS suggested I send it in for inspection/repair. Any thoughts on this?
    Well, I had a weekend MTB trip planned so I held off on sending my fork in for maintenance. I rode for three days on some Hellish, rocky, rooty terrain in Southeastern Mass, and not once did the lock-out adjustment move. So I'm thinking that I may have hit the adjustment somehow to make it move previously.

  80. #280
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    Just took care of some excessive stiction by greasing up the rubber piece that the air rod travels through at the base plate. Seems like a lot of attention needs to be paid to the whole air rod assembly to get all the moving parts lubed just right.

    X-fusion is now recommending their own brand "pure slick fluid" for the oil bath. I also see in their torque charts they recommend 10ml in the air chamber. Does anyone know what this stuff is? I got a small bottle of it from X-fusion but if it's just some rebranded oil I'd like to get a bigger bottle somewhere.

  81. #281
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    Early in this thread a RL2 uppers service video was mentioned. Does that actually exist or was it a mistake and referred to the lowers video (which I have viewed)? The video is not on the x-fusion website nor does it appear on a google search.

    I know that within this thread I can piece things together to get the fork apart and back together but if a video existed I'd sure want to view it. Gracias!

  82. #282
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    I just opened the air chamber on my sweep last night, and there was about 5ml in there from the factory. I added another 8ml or so, to bump up the pressure sooner (230 lbs riding weight, 100 psi, 130mm). There was plenty of room with the fork fully compressed, so I'm not worried about hydrolocking the fork travel.

    Anyway, the difference between 5 and 10 ml makes a noticeable difference. I wonder which is the correct value for most forks as they leave the factory?

  83. #283
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    Quote Originally Posted by GuitsBoy View Post
    Anyway, the difference between 5 and 10 ml makes a noticeable difference. I wonder which is the correct value for most forks as they leave the factory?
    How would you describe the difference?

  84. #284
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    Quote Originally Posted by ac1000 View Post
    How would you describe the difference?
    More progressive. If you use most of your travel, but dont want to (or cant, in my case) run a higher psi, you can make the air spring more progressive by adding oil. To me, the fork felt softer than I was used to from the factory, and I cant run any more than 100 psi or else I overpower then negative spring.

    A rough eyeball estimate with the fork at full compression looks like 5 cc reduces the air chamber by about 10% or 15%. That means 15% higher spring rate at bottom out, and roughly 7.5% higher spring rate at 50% travel, while almost no increase at the top.

    Again, that's just a rough estimate.

  85. #285
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    What oil are people using for the lowers that is working well?

  86. #286
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    Quote Originally Posted by ac1000 View Post
    What oil are people using for the lowers that is working well?
    Mobile1 synthetic. 5w20

  87. #287
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    Last time I dropped my lowers, I used Fox 20wt Gold (the new sticky stuff). I'm liking it, haven gotten longer service before feeling stiction return than generic (Finish Line?) 15wt. No problem with seal/wiper compatibility after 4 months.

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    Maxima 15wt in my Velvet. Had been using Fox Green (10wt I think) previously.

  89. #289
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    Quote Originally Posted by ac1000 View Post
    What oil are people using for the lowers that is working well?
    There's a list of fluid quantities and types for each fork in a torque spec document that is located on the Xfusion support section of their webpage. They recommend their own "Pure Slick Fluid" for the lowers. Since the service video also located on their webpage specifies 7.5 wt shock oil I contacted them and asked them which one I should use. The PDF is up to date -- use Pure Slick.

    My fork feels a lot better since I serviced it and used Pure Slick but who knows if it's due to that stuff or because of the service and oil change. In any case I am happy with the outcome.

  90. #290
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    I just noticed I was missing about 15mm of travel on my 140mm Velvet. I changed the damper fluid a few weeks ago and I know I was getting full travel after that.

    I cracked the top cap and air hissed out (no fluid) and now I'm getting full travel again. Anyone else had this happen?

  91. #291
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    Hi awesome thread. I had the loss of travel issue recently with my sweeps and had them eventually repaired under warranty, after initially being told I had overfilled the damper, except it had never been apart. They were pretty coy about what caused the issue but did a Trail Tune as part of the repair (which sounds like the valving rearrangement to give better low compression compliance and a blowoff threshold on lockout). Previously I ran the fork on 40psi (65kg rider) and was using all thr travel without bottoming out. Since its return 40 is too high to use all travel. Currently its about 35-37psi which seems to be good but I am getting a knock when I unweight the bars, like a top out. Is this too low and allowing the negative air spring to cause it to top out??

  92. #292
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    Was an awesome thread. Doesnt seem like anyone is home now?

    For what its worth, it seems like the new seals were causing some stiction and affecting low speed compressions. Big hits are using full travel at my usual 40psi again

  93. #293
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    Quote Originally Posted by outtacontrol View Post
    Hi awesome thread. I had the loss of travel issue recently with my sweeps and had them eventually repaired under warranty, after initially being told I had overfilled the damper, except it had never been apart. They were pretty coy about what caused the issue but did a Trail Tune as part of the repair (which sounds like the valving rearrangement to give better low compression compliance and a blowoff threshold on lockout). Previously I ran the fork on 40psi (65kg rider) and was using all thr travel without bottoming out. Since its return 40 is too high to use all travel. Currently its about 35-37psi which seems to be good but I am getting a knock when I unweight the bars, like a top out. Is this too low and allowing the negative air spring to cause it to top out??
    Your issue is likely the negative spring being too soft, letting the positive spring extend to max with little to no fight which allows it to top out.
    Deflate the fork, compress it, slide a zip-tie down the stanchion on each leg to get under the seal until it hisses. The inflate to 40psi and see what happens. You may find you need to go beyond 40psi.

  94. #294
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    I gave my '13 26" 140mm Velvet RL2 a rebuild. Here are my findings, and issues.

    I used Torco RSF Medium in the lowers (about 17ml)
    and Torco RSF Light in the damper (around 70ml)

    I installed some Enduro seals as X-fusion didn't seem to have newer model seals in stock when I called. Plus $40 seemed a bit steep.
    The Enduro seals I got were the Rockshox 32mm kit. So I'd assume using normal Rockshox seals would be okay.

    -I have already had X-fusion mod my lockout to become a 'Firm' setting. I'm not sure if they do the same thing as the high speed mod in this thread, as I could not open the high speed stack without a 12mm cone wrench.

    -This thread shows most users having the following shims in the low speed stack.
    10 mm x .15 mm
    8 mm x .1 mm
    (4) 5 mm x .2 mm

    However, mine had 2 of the 10mm x .15mm (a total of 7 shims instead of 6).
    I first tried the mod that everyone else was doing.
    10, 5, 8, 5, 5, 5 (and kept one of the 10's out)

    The fork worked fine, but when the lockout was on, the fork squealed very loudly.
    I put the extra 10 back in:
    10, 10, 5, 8, 5, 5, 5

    Again, the fork squealed very loudly.
    -And the firm (former lock out) setting would ONLY work if I compressed the fork quickly and hard. And the firm setting didn't kick in until the fork was moving for a good inch or so.
    If I pushed slowly, it was like I didn't have the lock switch flipped.

    After a few miles the fork became very soft. I flipped the lock (firm) setting back on, and it did nothing. I tore the fork down and realized I had not attached the upper and lower portions of the damper tight enough and it came completely unscrewed. Damper oil went into the lowers after it separated.

    -So I put it back together back how it was from the factory.
    10, 10, 8, 5, 5, 5, 5
    And whatever high speed mod they did to make the lockout a (firm).

    I will say that the open setting was very nice after I did the mod. But I'm unsure if I should go back to the mod.

    -I assume the sqealing was from the damper coming apart or squirting oil, rather than from the shim mod??? If so, I wouldn't mind modding it again.

    -However with the lockout (firm) switch engaged, it was taking a bit of a hit, and some travel before the firm mode would kick in (rendering it kind of useless).
    I'm not sure if this was from the damper being loose, -OR-
    From a combo of the low speed mod along with the lockout mod that X-fusion did already.
    I guess there is only one way to find out, unless one of you gurus has a good idea.

    It was more plush with the mod----
    AND the mod allowed me to put enough air in (75psi as opposed to 65) to inflate the fork to a full 140mm instead of 130.
    AND I could use the full 140.

    However, if it messes up the firm mode, I'll probably leave it as is.
    Side note - with the stock seals, I was able to do the zip-tie trick to burp the lowers many many times without issue.
    After doing this one time to the enduro seals, it sort of dented them and I think it may have a slow oil leak. I'll say it's my fault for sticking a zip tie in there with what is likely a harder material than stock seals. But it never seemed to hurt anything with the old seals.
    Last edited by ztbishop; 11-16-2015 at 06:33 PM.

  95. #295
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    I'm trying to fix the DLA stuck-down. I found some pictures of the cartridge in this website:
    http://http://www.chinabike.net/html/2013/DIY_0706/1681.html



    official xfusion rl2 fork service and tuning thread-20130706082211881.jpg
    official xfusion rl2 fork service and tuning thread-20130706082211427.jpgofficial xfusion rl2 fork service and tuning thread-20130706082212209.jpgofficial xfusion rl2 fork service and tuning thread-20130706082212270.jpgofficial xfusion rl2 fork service and tuning thread-20130706082212382.jpgofficial xfusion rl2 fork service and tuning thread-20130706082212456.jpgofficial xfusion rl2 fork service and tuning thread-20130706082212560.jpgofficial xfusion rl2 fork service and tuning thread-20130706082212730.jpgofficial xfusion rl2 fork service and tuning thread-20130706082213456.jpg
    Last edited by Valentino Meacci; 12-30-2015 at 06:04 AM.

  96. #296
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    Cool-blue Rhythm

    Guys,
    I would like to soften Sweep RL2 in the open mode cuz its little bit harsh and have trail mode in locked position. Moreover I would like avoid diving as much as possible. Is this option reached by mid-valve stack changed to 10,5,8,5,5,5 and high speed stack change to two-one sequence called "between lock and open"
    18x0.2,
    (2) 18x0.15,
    18x0.3,
    16x0.15,
    ring,
    center shim,
    (2) 18x0.15,
    (4) 12x0.15

    or better will be cobym2 sequence called "slighly firmer than fully open":

    18x0.2,
    18x0.15
    18x0.3
    16x0.15
    ring
    center shim
    (3) 18x0.15
    (4) 12x0.15

    Thanks in advance!

    BTW: Did anybody check his restacked shims by X-Fusion and can share the differencies in sizes and sequence?

  97. #297
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    Is there supposed to be air in the damper side? Without an IFP or a bladder there must be, right?


    I just re-arranged the "mid-valve" shims then extended the damper fully and filled it to the top. This resulted in the fork hydro-locking after about 50mm of travel.


    I released all the air, removed the damper top cap and compressed the fork which spilled some oil and then inflated to ~50 PSI and screwed the damper top cap back on. There is absolutely air in there now although the lockout still works.


    Would be nice to know how little air I can get away with to minimise foaming.

  98. #298
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    Compress fork, depressurize bottom damper side. Its 70ml oil to the damper, move it few times to push out air from damper.

    Your problem looks like too much oil in damper.

  99. #299
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    It's definitely not 70ml in my Velvet, that's enough to completely hydrolock it. It's possible I didn't get all the old oil out I guess but I don't think so. Might try filling it to the top with the damper fully compressed and see how that goes.

  100. #300
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    I'm getting a top out clunk after trying to let the air out of the fork and refilling, I think I may have done the zip tie trick wrong. Do I compress the fork as I let the air out so it fully bottoms out or do I just let the air out of the fork with no weight on the bars?

    With so many of the same complaints you would think X-Fusion would have found this too stiff feeling problem before going into production.

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