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  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by kneecap View Post
    Gotta give thanks where all can see,
    I modified my slant by removing the entire shim stack, thanks to dwyooja's great clear photos on the disassembled fork, + my added 2.5 wt oil.
    Went on a ride yesterday where the trail has rock gardens; sever breaking bumps; & steep drops as well, the fork works superbly for me compared to stock form, better than any fork I've used to date! Thanks again dwyooja for taking the time to get inside this fork & posting your findings & thoughts...
    Youre welcome. I agree teh fork feels much better with that shimstack removed. im still gonna try just oputting in the one, thinner shim, and see how that goes.
    '14 rocky mountain altitude, rally edition
    '11 transition blindside, 650b converted

  2. #52
    kneecap
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    Quote Originally Posted by cobym2 View Post
    Kneecap, Good to know. Whats your weight, if you dont mind?
    I'm rolling at 150 lbs. no gear, not really that fast, but not bad for my age..

  3. #53
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    I got the shims, If you want one paypal me $6 at jonesie29@gmail.com. These users are first in line and gauranteed to get one: grok22, d-bug (for 2), hokiebrett, ramjm_2000, and Kand. Anyone else, message or email me first just to make sure i didnt run out.
    I put one in my sweep today (to reiterate, its to replace the stock .15mm thick face shim with a .1 mm shim, and I also put one of teh pivot shims between the face shim and teh secondary shim) feels like what I wanted to do , just a little firmer than with the whole stack removed. Will test on trail this weekend.
    '14 rocky mountain altitude, rally edition
    '11 transition blindside, 650b converted

  4. #54
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    Edit: its $6 if youre in the us. If youre elsewhere email or pm me your address and ill se how much extra international shipping is Thanks!
    '14 rocky mountain altitude, rally edition
    '11 transition blindside, 650b converted

  5. #55
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    PayPal sent!

  6. #56
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    oh, and when you paypal me please note your mtbr username. thanks!
    '14 rocky mountain altitude, rally edition
    '11 transition blindside, 650b converted

  7. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwyooaj View Post
    oh, and when you paypal me please note your mtbr username. thanks!
    Paid.

    Cheers


    Kand

  8. #58
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  9. #59
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  11. #61
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    Well, i got on the trail yesterday with the thinner shim mod. I believe we have a winner, at least for my weight and the chunky trails around here. It feels about two thirds of the way between stock, and the entire midvalve removed. Absorbs the bumps a lot better, (not quite as good as entire stack removed) but still has a little support for flowy trails and steeps.
    I mailed out the shims on fri to everyone who ordered. When you do the mod post on here and let me know what you think.
    '14 rocky mountain altitude, rally edition
    '11 transition blindside, 650b converted

  12. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwyooaj View Post
    at least for my weight and the chunky trails around here.
    Mind me asking your weight and location?

  13. #63
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    I weigh 210 geared up. laguna beach, CA
    '14 rocky mountain altitude, rally edition
    '11 transition blindside, 650b converted

  14. #64
    vko
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    Hello, does anyone know where I can find xfusion oil volume charts?

  15. #65
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    Just wanted to thank everyone that has posted to this thread. I made a travel adustment on my Slide today and this along with the pdf and vid's from X-Fusion was very helpful. NOT helpful is the section here on the valving. Now I want to mess with mine! -LOL!

    Notes: Mine is a late 2012/13 and the damper side had no oil at all in the lower so I did not add any. It has worked fine that way for almost 2 years so...
    Somehow one of the springs at the dust seal top fell into the fork leg while cleaning the lower out. I have never ever seen this happen and when I was sliding the lowers back on, it hung up and scraped the lower two inches of the stanchion which won't affect the working part of the fork. Be careful with this-could have been really bad if I forced the lower all the way up.

    Once again thanks and I will be doing my test on my new Vassago Verhauen (coming off a Jabberwocky) tomorrow. If I notice anything weird I will let you know.
    Vassago Cycles, Shadetree Bikes, Flat Tire Bikes, Galfer Brakes USA

  16. #66
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    I'd definitely add oil....

  17. #67
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    Ram-I thought about it, but it has never leaked. I have washed my bike once ever, and there would be a snail trail if it did. Also, on the Slant there is nothing to lube there. Looking at the pics on this thread, the damper rod is lubed by the oil in the valving area. I am going to run it as is and has been for the last couple thousand miles. Like I wrote, this thing will probably come apart again soon to do some valving work to take out the small chatter spikes.
    Vassago Cycles, Shadetree Bikes, Flat Tire Bikes, Galfer Brakes USA

  18. #68
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    Just an update after a few weeks toying with the midvalve: shim stack rearrangement v. mid valve removed.

    As a background, I first removed the shimstack and refilled with Golden Spectro cartridge fork fluid (which is supposed to be the right viscosity, I think) 5wt. Im 175lbs and the Sweep goes on my Turner Burner 650b enduro rig. I initially dove into these mods to get some small bump compliance from the Sweep, which I felt was a bit harsh new. But I quite loved the midvalve support which translated to better control for me on the steeps and braking.

    With the midvalve removed, the fork is buttery and smoother over the small bumps. Very nice and "SUV-like". Rode it a few times like that and was actually quite happy. But I had the nagging feeling to see how the fork would perform with the shim stack rearrangement.

    The shim stack rearrangement I am talking about is the same as described by dwyooaj above (switch smaller and medium shims, leave large shim in place). These are the stock shims and not the thinner shims from dwyooaj.
    Riding, it felt closer to stock, with slightly better small bump performance. It was smoother on chattery stuff, but still had good support against diving. I would say its quite closer to the firmer (stock) midvalve than it is to the fork with the midvalve completely removed.

    Between the two, I prefer the 2nd mod (shimstack rearranged). Less plush on little bumps but better control.

    Now I'm wondering how the thinner shims from dwyooaj would do. I suppose they would split the difference between 1 and 2 again. (Now where are those extra shims I saw laying around?......:P = the tinkerer's curse)

    This fork is quite an amazing performer, especially for a tinkerer like me, and for the price, it dethrones my Marz 55 RC3ti as my favorite. Durability is yet untested though.
    SCB Nomad, SCB 5010v2, Turner RFX, Voodoo D-jab 650B, Voodoo Wazoo CX/commuter
    ...so far...

  19. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by cstem View Post
    Ram-I thought about it, but it has never leaked. I have washed my bike once ever, and there would be a snail trail if it did. Also, on the Slant there is nothing to lube there. Looking at the pics on this thread, the damper rod is lubed by the oil in the valving area. I am going to run it as is and has been for the last couple thousand miles. Like I wrote, this thing will probably come apart again soon to do some valving work to take out the small chatter spikes.
    Not sure i follow when you say there is nothing to lube. The slide is basically a 29" Velvet no? Enix? They should all have stanchion lubrication oil in the lowers. I can't imagine a bone dry fork is very smooth not to mention killing the seals, etc...

  20. #70
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    cstem, you crazy. the fork absolutely needs bath oil in the lower to lube the bushings,stanchion, and oil seal. Just because it was bone dry when you disassembled doesnt mean you shouldnt put it in. Eitehr you have a leak or the factory forgot to put it in.
    '14 rocky mountain altitude, rally edition
    '11 transition blindside, 650b converted

  21. #71
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    official xfusion rl2 fork service and tuning thread

    Have a question;
    I sent my Slide 29 RL2 fork in for a leak 2x in a space of 3 weeks (was told it was a torn o-ring at the foot nut they missed the first time they fixed my damper rod), and this time when I got it back they had replaced the uppers. When I called them to find out why, I was told they upgraded the damper to the one they use in the 34mm forks. My Slide was an RL2, is there an upgraded damper in the larger forks? And how possible is it that the same one is used between the different diameter forks. I don't doubt they upgraded it because they have been absolutely wonderful throughout this process and exceeded my expectations, I just don't know how the damper is supposed to be different/better. Just curious if someone here knows. It "looks" the same from the outside, but that doesn't mean anything.

    Thanks!
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  22. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwyooaj View Post

    3. Use a 4 mm socket placed on the end of the rebound shaft where tehre are hex flats. carefully pound on this with a hammer to unseat the shaft from the lowers. Nice and straight so that rod doesnt bend.
    Attachment 889707 DO NOt use the footnuts to drive out the shafts like on other forks, the nuts are too soft teh threads will strip.
    does this get around needing the special damper removal tool that they show in the video on their website (X Fusion Shox - RL2 Fork Travel Adjust) or have they changed something for the 2014 forks?

    I just got off the phone with them and they don't sell the tool to end users only service centers have it, but i'm hoping that i don't actually need it. Anyone know?
    thanks

  23. #73
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    In a word, yes. Thats how you get around the special tool. However, I read somewhere that theyre working on an affordable tool to sell, available somrtime soon.
    '14 rocky mountain altitude, rally edition
    '11 transition blindside, 650b converted

  24. #74
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    Has anyone experimented with any other shim configurations? Additionally, I am assuming the bottom out bumpers are the black rubber pieces situated in the bottom of the fork legs - are there supposed to be 2 bumpers in the air spring side, or one in each side?
    2014 Banshee Spitfire 650b
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  25. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwyooaj View Post
    In a word, yes. Thats how you get around the special tool. However, I read somewhere that theyre working on an affordable tool to sell, available somrtime soon.
    That unseats it, right? But he'll need a different home tool to reseat it. PVC pipe or deep socket that is bigger than the end of the damper to pound the lowers back on.
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  26. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by KRob View Post
    That unseats it, right? But he'll need a different home tool to reseat it. PVC pipe or deep socket that is bigger than the end of the damper to pound the lowers back on.
    yep, just like the pic I posted in post #4, step 17.
    '14 rocky mountain altitude, rally edition
    '11 transition blindside, 650b converted

  27. #77
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    I'm going to be pulling my sweep apart in a few weeks to address a few niggles I have with the fork. Like others, I find the fork a bit harsh on the small stuff but love the mid stroke support. Also I've struggled to get the spring rate to my liking. If I have the air pressure low enough to make it plush (5psi below the recommendation for my weight) it bottoms too easily, but if I increase the pressure even by 5psi, it becomes too harsh.
    Here's what I'm thinking of trying:
    - swap the shims in the midvalve to: 5mm, 10mm, 8mm, 2x 5mm.
    - add a little float fluid to the air chamber to reduce air volume a little.

    The idea of putting the 5mm shim at the face of the cup is to provide a small gap to allow some free bleed before the shims engage. My thinking is that a traditional shimmed damper has an orifice to allow some oil to flow before the flow becomes great enough to engage the shims so I'm trying to achieve something similar. Am I on the right track or way off?

  28. #78
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    Cross post from the XF Sweep thread, but it is relevant here as well:
    Quote Originally Posted by hokiebrett View Post
    Also, I had my first warranty experience with XFusion and it was favorable. It was a defect in workmanship from when they tuned my fork. Instead of having me ship it back, they were willing to have me drop it off at DirtLabs in Boulder, CO. Quite pleased.
    As I follow up, I want to give credit where credit is due. DirtLabs in Boulder did my warranty work for my custom (factory) tuned Sweep. They did a Schlube 'n Lube as well as a 'Pro-Tune' and the fork now feels wonderful.

    This time around they put in Maxima 3W oil in the damper and made sure everything was very nicely Schlube 'n Lubed up.

    If you ever want fork work done, give Luby a call at DirtLabs, great guy and great service!

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    Last edited by 06HokieMTB; 08-01-2014 at 10:07 AM.
    I like 'em low, long, slack and playful

  29. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwyooaj View Post
    I mailed out the shims on fri to everyone who ordered. When you do the mod post on here and let me know what you think.
    Thanks again for getting those made and sent out. I have not ridden mine yet for quite a few reasons (wheel rim failure, bike frame swap, warranty work on the Sweep... Oh yeah, also got married, took a honey moon in Costa Rica... ya know, normal stuff).

    Next time I have the fork open for service (or if I decide to try it at 160mm on the newer frame), I'll give the shim a whirl and post up my results.

    I too, love the DIY tinkerability of this Sweep!

    Quote Originally Posted by chize View Post
    does this get around needing the special damper removal tool that they show in the video on their website (X Fusion Shox - RL2 Fork Travel Adjust) or have they changed something for the 2014 forks?

    I just got off the phone with them and they don't sell the tool to end users only service centers have it, but i'm hoping that i don't actually need it. Anyone know?
    thanks
    It was me that posted up saying XF plans on making a consumer level damper removal tool (maybe not in this thread, the Sweep thread on MTBR). A few months ago, there was no ETA and pricing.

    But, it seems its not necessary... As people here are figuring out how to do it without the tool.
    I like 'em low, long, slack and playful

  30. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by hokiebrett View Post
    Cross post from the XF Sweep thread, but it is relevant here as well:


    As I follow up, I want to give credit where credit is due. DirtLabs in Boulder did my warranty work for my custom (factory) tuned Sweep. They rebuilt to stock spec's and the fork lost quite a bit of small bump and high speed chatter stability...

    Took the fork back and DirtLabs (on their dime, not XF's) opened it back up, did a Schlube 'n Lube as well as a 'Pro-Tune' and the fork now feels wonderful. Apparently the stock weight oil did not play well with whatever XF did on the original factory tune I had done (which modified the RL2 to be more like a Open/Trail instead of Open/Lock... they changed the lock to a medium compression setting).

    This time around DirtLabs put in Maxima 3W oil in the damper and made sure everything was very nicely Schlube 'n Lubed up.

    If you ever want fork work done, give Luby a call at DirtLabs, great guy and great service!

    dirtlabs.com

    SERVICE@DIRTLABS.COM
    720.213.4742
    3046 Valmont Road, Boulder, Colorado 80301
    Hours: Mon-Fri 10-6.
    So all they did was change the oil to Maxima 3W to get your fork feeling good again? hmm maybe I should try that oil in mine.
    '12 Scott Spark 29 Team
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  31. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by zephxiii View Post
    So all they did was change the oil to Maxima 3W to get your fork feeling good again? hmm maybe I should try that oil in mine.
    Yes/No.

    My fork had been factory tuned by XF. They converted the Lockout to a Medium Compression ('Trail') setting. I do not know what XF changed to do this.

    DirtLabs was contracted to perform some warranty service on my fork (XF had a workmanship defect after the custom tune). Upon reassmembly, DirtLabs put 7wt oil back in the damper as that is what was called for, but it changed the handling characteristics of my fork. Changing to 3W seems to have brought the handling characteristics back.

    When I pull this fork apart, I'll take pics of the damper and post them up here. Maybe we can figure out what XF did to change my Lockout to a Medium Compression knob.
    I like 'em low, long, slack and playful

  32. #82
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    Well I guess I was trying to highlight the oil making the difference when Dirtlabs was working on it.

    Yeah info on your lockout setup would be interesting.
    '12 Scott Spark 29 Team
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  33. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwyooaj View Post
    here is a pic of the high-speed shim stack, which i didnt feel the need to mess with. It also is the blow-off for when the fork is locked out
    Attachment 889757
    Can you highlight which one is the blow-off for when the fork is locked out? I'm thinking that's what XF changed on my fork. I'd like it to be a little softer, so I'm curious if it's a reconfigured shim or orifice?
    I like 'em low, long, slack and playful

  34. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by zephxiii View Post
    Well I guess I was trying to highlight the oil making the difference when Dirtlabs was working on it
    He said they also Schlube 'n Lubed the crap out of it. The small bump compliance (rocky trail chatter) was incredibly harsh and there was a tremendous amount of low speed stiction (if you pushed down on the handlebars, it would actually 'catch' and get stiff, then slowly release). Big hits seemed to be better and I was getting full travel.
    I like 'em low, long, slack and playful

  35. #85
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    Well I ordered:
    Bel-Ray High Performance Fork Oil - 2.5W - 1 Liter 99290-B1LW
    Torco RSF Medium Racing Shock Fluid Bottle
    FW-28 Wrench for the end cap

    Going to change the damper oil (which needs changed anyways) to the 2.5w just to see what difference it will make, and lowers oil.

    Then I might play around with the shims if I feel the want to.
    '12 Scott Spark 29 Team
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  36. #86
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    So I added the oil (see older post by me this thread) to the air side and all was well after going to 120mm setting. Rode bike hard for about 200 miles then things got weird. The other night, lockout started to spin (with resistance) past the lockout setting. Then unlocking, it unlocked easy then the extra spin.

    Then the travel became less and less to 80 mm, then full lock and extension, with the lockout doing nothing. I called Xfusion, got some great advice from John and tore in. I took apart air side just to be sure the travel adjust roll pin did not come out and dig into the side of the fork-all good. Took apart the damper side. First thing was the little nut under the lockout cap was loose. So I undid the top cap and noticed the top chamber was filled to the top with oil, and when removing the nut for the lower shaft (note- my fork is not like the sweep pic this thread. The top and bottom dampers are not connected with the tube and there are no threads to connect them, so I guess that is it MY2012) and the oil was less on that end. Cleaned it all up with some PJ1 Super Clean, lubed and reassembled with new oil. That fixed it and it feels better now actually. I figure I either got some debris in the lockout valving or drain back hole and caused hydro lock. Either way, thanks to all the contributors on this thread. I wish I took pics of my fork apart, but was too oily and phone was dead, and it was 105 degrees in my garage at night. Next time for sure. Tonight is a long night ride with some fast rocky chunky stuff, if I run into issues I will let you know.
    Vassago Cycles, Shadetree Bikes, Flat Tire Bikes, Galfer Brakes USA

  37. #87
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    Tagged for when my Velvet gets here.

  38. #88
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    Ok, took my Sweep for another chattery ride today. My ABP rear end with a DRCV CTD shock definitely outguns the Sweep on the small chattery stuff. Sounds like it's time to open her up and play with the new shim.

    2.5W Golden Spectro fork oil is on order. Gotta get a 6pt socket from AutoZone and grind it down.
    I like 'em low, long, slack and playful

  39. #89
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    My slide is built differently. I don't have a damper tube inside the stanchion.

    I unscrewed the bottom and it was just the damper rod and piston valve.
    I unscrewed the top and pulled out the top part which was only a few inches long.

    So the mod is really easy to do on the Slide.

    Keep in mind that it requires a different volume of damper oil, I heard it was 140ml. I didn't measure it as I set it just under where it started acting like a spring. Not enough and the lockout will not work.

    Also the custom wrenches mentioned on the 2nd page is well worth the 7 dollars + shipping. I would like to get the size for the bottom of the damper but luckily I had a closed end for it.

    I changed damper oil to 2.5w which I think helps but hard to tell as I really needed a lowers service.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
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  40. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by bkmad View Post
    I'm going to be pulling my sweep apart in a few weeks to address a few niggles I have with the fork. Like others, I find the fork a bit harsh on the small stuff but love the mid stroke support. Also I've struggled to get the spring rate to my liking. If I have the air pressure low enough to make it plush (5psi below the recommendation for my weight) it bottoms too easily, but if I increase the pressure even by 5psi, it becomes too harsh.
    Here's what I'm thinking of trying:
    - swap the shims in the midvalve to: 5mm, 10mm, 8mm, 2x 5mm.
    - add a little float fluid to the air chamber to reduce air volume a little.

    The idea of putting the 5mm shim at the face of the cup is to provide a small gap to allow some free bleed before the shims engage. My thinking is that a traditional shimmed damper has an orifice to allow some oil to flow before the flow becomes great enough to engage the shims so I'm trying to achieve something similar. Am I on the right track or way off?
    Well I made these changes last weekend and went for a ride yesterday. I'm guessing that my changes to the shim stack have opened it up to much as the fork is quite divey now. Unfortunately it doesn't seem to have helped much in improving the harshness over the smaller stuff. Medium to big hits are still fine. Next time I have it apart I'll probably go back to something close to the stock shim arrangement - maybe try a 5mm shim between the 10 and 8.

    The addition of some oil to the air chamber has improved the ramp up a little but I think I'll add some more which will let me drop my air pressure a little more for some better compliance.

  41. #91
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    What oil are u using in the damper?

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
    '12 Scott Spark 29 Team
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    '11 Scott Speedster S20
    '99 Spec' FSR Comp
    '9x Spec' Hardrock Cromo rigid

  42. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by zephxiii View Post
    What oil are u using in the damper?

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
    Motul 2.5w. It was the closest I could get.

  43. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by bkmad View Post
    Motul 2.5w. It was the closest I could get.
    hmm, do you know the cSt @ 40c? Mine has been riding really good since the change to 2.5, but I based my oil selection on comparative benchmarks to the stock oil.
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  44. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by zephxiii View Post
    hmm, do you know the cSt @ 40c? Mine has been riding really good since the change to 2.5, but I based my oil selection on comparative benchmarks to the stock oil.
    Its 15.0 mm≤/s. I think the Torco RSF Light is 14.5.

  45. #95
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    Re: official xfusion rl2 fork service and tuning thread

    Quote Originally Posted by bkmad View Post
    Its 15.0 mm≤/s. I think the Torco RSF Light is 14.5.
    Oh that's why. The Bel-Ray 2.5w I got measures 9.2, maybe try that.

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  46. #96
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    So after some testing with the lowers service and damper oil change to Bel-Ray 2.5w Fork oil on my Slide...

    The fork is moving a lot easier and soaking up more. Finally got to ride the home trail last night and it is absorbing the hits more easily. I set a bunch of PRs and landed 2nd place on my fav trail section as the fork just let me ride. I remember this one big root in a fast section that I would always feel and have to brace for. It didn't even feel like it was there as the fork soaked it up.

    There was still a couple of times where i felt a lot of chatter but it might be because i was at the top of travel where there is corrosive damage on my damper stanchion which causes it to stick. However if I roll through a root section or whatever the fork feels very well controlled at eats the rough up so I don't have to deal with it. I just need to get my crown/stanchion/steerer assembly replaced to get it working better at the top.

    Having done the lowers service which was badly needed it is hard to tell what is having the greatest effect. However I do think that the damper oil change to 2.5 is having a greater effect on how it is riding since it feels like the freshness of the lowers service has worn off just a little bit to where I can feel it to start getting hung up again at the top.
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    What is the status on a more proper tool to remove the lowers? I heard that maybe they were going to release one, but haven't heard much since.

    What is the go-to method that people are using for removing the lowers?
    X-prezo Super-D, 26in style.

  48. #98
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    Removing the lowers: Undo the footnuts and bang away on the spring side with a soft blow hammer/rubber mallet. For the damper side (with the rebound knob removed), DONT hit the tiny rebound rod or it will break. find a socket or small plastic tube that fits over the rebound rod, but sits on the end of the threaded portion and hit that with a hammer. Dont use the footnut as it is soft. According to some posters, if you can find an old SRAM chainring nut (I have no idea what this is, but I have tried normal chainring nuts and they dont fit), this can take the place of the footnut: thread it in a bit and hit that with the hammer.

    I suppose you are referring to the damper side. Use a hollow tube that fits over the threads and hit the lowers with a hammer lightly until enough of the threads show to thread on the footnut and pull it out. a small PVC pipe, or even a socket can do (but it may scratch your lower). Lock out and extend the damper prior to positioning the lowers on the stanchions.

    No need for a fancy shmancy tool. But being a tool whore, yes, I would buy that dang special tool from Xfusion if it were available.

    Quote Originally Posted by y0bailey View Post
    What is the status on a more proper tool to remove the lowers? I heard that maybe they were going to release one, but haven't heard much since.

    What is the go-to method that people are using for removing the lowers?
    SCB Nomad, SCB 5010v2, Turner RFX, Voodoo D-jab 650B, Voodoo Wazoo CX/commuter
    ...so far...

  49. #99
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    Dont know if this has been posted before but it seems the damper design has changed and it needs more oil (or always was different). My 2014 Velvet RL2 contained about 120mL and it really needed this much to submerge the compression/lockout circuit.
    The top part could be removed while the rebound circuit and rod stayed in place.

    Does somebody know the official amount for the Velvet?

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    Great thread! Also, the service video put out by x-fusion is excellent as well.

    I have to give a shout out to the customer service at x-fusion as well. I bought my dad an rl2 fork that we wanted to bump the travel up on and a few questions came up that required a couple of phone calls into x-fusion. Those calls were answered quickly and the questions answered knowledgeably. Couldn't ask for more. The fork seems to be very nice as well.

    FYI, one question was regarding what oil is safe to use and it was a quick no on the mobile1 oil for x-fusion forks. I think this was discussed earlier in this thread.

    Another FYI, if you have an OEM fork, rather than a push pin to adjust the travel, you my have a c-clip.

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