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  1. #26
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    I'd be in for 1.

  2. #27
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    I really think you should look for the tuning possibilities in reducing the stack preload on the "high speed stack" for a plusher ride over rough terrain.
    Is it so difficult to disassemble?

  3. #28
    bump and grind
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    I took out the damper and the "midvalve" "cap" thing and noticed that there were only 3 shims of 3 different sizes arranged in a conical stack. I wonder why in the pics there were 5. I rearranged the shims so that the smallest shim sat in between the two larger shims - hopefully to achieve better small bump compliance while not completely losing the mid-valve effect.
    Anyway, testing around the block, I felt as if the fork were slightly more plush. Real trail testing tomorrow.

    Anyway, some tips:
    1. Use the right tools - I tried a socket and it almost mangled the top cap (those things are on TIGHT). Got these from lunar bikes and they're perfect.


    2. You can do the tuning mod without taking the fork completely apart. Just remove all air, unscrew the damper top cap, compress fork and lift the damper until you can access the wrench flats on the main tube. Some oil spillage is possible though. Then you can unscrew the top half of the damper assembly.
    Turner Burner 650b, Knolly Endorphin, Turner RFX, Voodoo D-jab 650B
    ...so far...

  4. #29
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    Cobym, which fork do you have? Mine is a sweep it would be interesting to know how the shim configurations differ for the various rl2 forks. If your big shim is 10 mm and the middle one is 8 it should have the same effects as my stack. i also put one of teh small pivot shims between the 10 and 8 mm shims but would like it a tad softer so want to try the thinner face shim too.

    1.Was your socket end ground flat? Mine was and it worked fine. The lunar tools are also a great way to go.

    2. Great idea!
    '14 rocky mountain altitude, rally edition
    '11 transition blindside

  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by two-one View Post
    I really think you should look for the tuning possibilities in reducing the stack preload on the "high speed stack" for a plusher ride over rough terrain.
    Is it so difficult to disassemble?
    Might try that down the road, looks like i would have to get some very flat wrenches to get at some of the wrench flats, but shouldnt bee too difficult. that stack looks like a straight stack of 4 -6 shims, might be interesting to change that to a taperd stack. And since those are likely standard sizes would be cheap to mes with. If anyone has any advice on specific mods to that stack that would be great. But IMO the fork feels really good on rougher terrain with bigger chunk/hits, its the small-bump sensitivity i need to open up. However softening up the big stack might help with fast sharp stutter bumps.
    '14 rocky mountain altitude, rally edition
    '11 transition blindside

  6. #31
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    I'd be in for 1.

  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwyooaj View Post
    Might try that down the road, looks like i would have to get some very flat wrenches to get at some of the wrench flats, but shouldnt bee too difficult. that stack looks like a straight stack of 4 -6 shims, might be interesting to change that to a taperd stack. And since those are likely standard sizes would be cheap to mes with. If anyone has any advice on specific mods to that stack that would be great. But IMO the fork feels really good on rougher terrain with bigger chunk/hits, its the small-bump sensitivity i need to open up. However softening up the big stack might help with fast sharp stutter bumps.
    Would cone wrenches be thin enough?

    Just picked my fork up today. It's sitting in my trunk right now while I'm at work. Driving me nuts I can't play with it.

  8. #33
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    i think a cone wrench would work. If i remember correctly its 12 mm, i have some cone wrenches but theyre bigger.
    '14 rocky mountain altitude, rally edition
    '11 transition blindside

  9. #34
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    Reputation: d-bug's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ramjm_2000 View Post
    Dbug

    Can you post a pic of the modified footnut? I'm trying to wrap my head around why a half nut works better than a full nut.
    You guys figured it out with words, but a picture is worth a thousand of them. So here you go
    This was my original footnut. You can see the silver area on the piece on the right, that's where the threads stripped when I tried threading it on like I've done with all Fox and RS forks I've had.
    official xfusion rl2 fork service and tuning thread-img_2688.jpg
    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    ...People thought they were getting a good fork because it was a "fox".

  10. #35
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    Well so far there are 5 takers for the shims. I called the guy back today and left a message, im sure ill talk to him in the near future and order a small batch, maybe ten or a dozen in case anyone else chimes or i want to keep a few spares. Ill update on this thread with price and ETA.
    '14 rocky mountain altitude, rally edition
    '11 transition blindside

  11. #36
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    sounds good. I might actually be in for a second for my Velvet (vs. My sweep)

  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwyooaj View Post
    Cobym, which fork do you have? Mine is a sweep it would be interesting to know how the shim configurations differ for the various rl2 forks. If your big shim is 10 mm and the middle one is 8 it should have the same effects as my stack. i also put one of teh small pivot shims between the 10 and 8 mm shims but would like it a tad softer so want to try the thinner face shim too.
    1.Was your socket end ground flat? Mine was and it worked fine. The lunar tools are also a great way to go.

    2. Great idea!
    I have the sweep.
    Socket was a bad 12pt unground one, but which worked on my fox 34. The xfusion caps are thin and soft. Good thing I stopped after one try.

    Anyway, I tried the small shim sandwich which you mention on a real trail today. It feels plusher with better small bump sensitivity, but only very slightly. The mid valve is still very much present, which is good (one of the reasons I bought the fork and sold the divey fox 34). I'll probably try it with the cap removed just to see how it is without.
    FYI, I refilled the cart with golden Spectro 5wt which should be same or close to stock. Should I go with a lighter oil?
    The sweep fork doesn't feel bad, but it's just that my other bike has a coil marz 55 rc3ti. Hard to beat a coil in terms of plushness and it's maybe the reason I'm unconsciously looking for that coil feel. Attainable? Or am I just fooling myself.
    Turner Burner 650b, Knolly Endorphin, Turner RFX, Voodoo D-jab 650B
    ...so far...

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by cobym2 View Post
    FYI, I refilled the cart with golden Spectro 5wt which should be same or close to stock. Should I go with a lighter oil?

    The sweep fork doesn't feel bad, but it's just that my other bike has a coil marz 55 rc3ti. Hard to beat a coil in terms of plushness and it's maybe the reason I'm unconsciously looking for that coil feel. Attainable? Or am I just fooling myself.
    the cst value of 5w spectro fork oil is 21.7, the stock oil is 14.5. Thats significantly thicker. Unless you used the "cartridge fork fluid" whic is 16.2, close enough.

    yeah, thats where im at. Ive only ran coil forks before and thats what im used to, so trying to do what i can to get more suppleness out of this air fork. Everyone who says air forks feel as good as coil these days is just high (especially your Zoke!). But with rear shocks, its getting pretty close.
    '14 rocky mountain altitude, rally edition
    '11 transition blindside

  14. #39
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    Coby, do you want one of the thinner shims?
    '14 rocky mountain altitude, rally edition
    '11 transition blindside

  15. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwyooaj View Post
    the cst value of 5w spectro fork oil is 21.7, the stock oil is 14.5. Thats significantly thicker. Unless you used the "cartridge fork fluid" whic is 16.2, close enough.

    .
    Aha. So that's why. I have a bottle of 2.5 wt coming so I'll try that first.
    Turner Burner 650b, Knolly Endorphin, Turner RFX, Voodoo D-jab 650B
    ...so far...

  16. #41
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    Just so im not leavin y'all hanging, i called the guy whos gonna make the shims the other day and left a message but havent heard back yet. Tomorrow morning im leaving for a 4 day camping trip out of cellphone range. so, hopefully ill talk to him when i get back and get these going.
    '14 rocky mountain altitude, rally edition
    '11 transition blindside

  17. #42
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    Dwyooaj, Thanks, but Im ok. I have a couple of shims from an old old shock that I can probably play with.
    Turner Burner 650b, Knolly Endorphin, Turner RFX, Voodoo D-jab 650B
    ...so far...

  18. #43
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    Sounds good.

  19. #44
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    Anyone know if there is a way to change the lockout? It's just not a feature I'll ever use unless it can be modified to be a diffrent compression/platform setting.

  20. #45
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    Yes. Mine is the medium compression setting (and is still too firm for my liking). What they changed to get there? No clue.

    "You can make a soft lock out (still not descendable) , or make the lock out function a medium compression setting (descendable), or also adjusting the mid valve if you feel the fork dives to much in corners (also depends on your weight)"

  21. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by hokiebrett View Post
    Yes. Mine is the medium compression setting (and is still too firm for my liking). What they changed to get there? No clue.

    "You can make a soft lock out (still not descendable) , or make the lock out function a medium compression setting (descendable), or also adjusting the mid valve if you feel the fork dives to much in corners (also depends on your weight)"
    That straight from xfusion? Any idea how to modify the lockout? I'd be interested in making it a medium compression setting.

  22. #47
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    Straight from them. No clue what they did.

  23. #48
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    Gotta give thanks where all can see,
    I modified my slant by removing the entire shim stack, thanks to dwyooja's great clear photos on the disassembled fork, + my added 2.5 wt oil.
    Went on a ride yesterday where the trail has rock gardens; sever breaking bumps; & steep drops as well, the fork works superbly for me compared to stock form, better than any fork I've used to date! Thanks again dwyooja for taking the time to get inside this fork & posting your findings & thoughts...

  24. #49
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    Kneecap, Good to know. Whats your weight, if you dont mind?

    Quote Originally Posted by kneecap View Post
    Gotta give thanks where all can see,
    I modified my slant by removing the entire shim stack, thanks to dwyooja's great clear photos on the disassembled fork, + my added 2.5 wt oil.
    Went on a ride yesterday where the trail has rock gardens; sever breaking bumps; & steep drops as well, the fork works superbly for me compared to stock form, better than any fork I've used to date! Thanks again dwyooja for taking the time to get inside this fork & posting your findings & thoughts...
    Turner Burner 650b, Knolly Endorphin, Turner RFX, Voodoo D-jab 650B
    ...so far...

  25. #50
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    I will be getting teh shims in a few days. they will be $6 each, or if you want 2 (d-bug) $10 for both. I know that sounds like a lot for a shim but such is the law of small batches. When I get them Ill contact y'all with my paypal. i want to make sure theyre perfect and flat first.
    '14 rocky mountain altitude, rally edition
    '11 transition blindside

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