# Thread: New inline Double Barrel Cane Creek

1. Originally Posted by manitou2200
Nope, they're both high speed movements HSC affects these situations.
Are you aware that objects fall at 9.8m/s^2? Your fork or shock moves a lot slower in those situations than ramming a 12cm vertical rock face at 25mph. If you work out the math, you can prove this to yourself. Are you confusing high speed damping with forward speed?

2. Originally Posted by Jayem
Are you aware that objects fall at 9.8m/s^2? Your fork or shock moves a lot slower in those situations than ramming a 12cm vertical rock face at 25mph. If you work out the math, you can prove this to yourself. Are you confusing high speed damping with forward speed?
I would tend to agree with manitou2220 as well. LSC is to control pedal inputs, that is slower or low speed movements. The HSC works with faster speed events (yes, as you indicated, not to be confused with forward speed). A fast speed event could be a drop to flat at very low forward speed where the shock compresses quickly and usually with force, these are the types of events that can also bottom out a shock where the HSC is not sufficient.

This is the way I understand it and setup my shock accordingly.

See post from a couple of pages back.

Originally Posted by Rootsboy
have a quick look at the manuals and tuning field guides on the cane creek website, page 36 i think shows this:
Attachment 924648

https://www.canecreek.com/tech-cente...ension/manuals

3. A g-out at speed is definitely a high speed event. There's a horizontal component to the force on the rear wheel and so it is similar in some ways to hitting a large rock at speed.

4. Here's one for you tech minded guys . The inline can fit both ways round on my NP TR SO does this make any dif to how well it works ??? I can reach the climb switch both ways round aswell . So if this does effect how well it works what's the best way round ?

5. Originally Posted by 2013megaAM
Here's one for you tech minded guys . The inline can fit both ways round on my NP TR SO does this make any dif to how well it works ??? I can reach the climb switch both ways round aswell . So if this does effect how well it works what's the best way round ?
Here's my 2c
I can't see that direction in which the shock is mounted would impact the shocks performance for either the air or oil in the shock, seals or valving.

In general terms the goal always seems to be to keep the weight as low as possible on the frame. That said I can't see running the damping control up or down will make much of difference for weight distribution, so go with what ever makes it easier to reach the CS or to adjust the damping controls or add/remove air or perhaps which looks best.

6. Originally Posted by 2013megaAM
Here's one for you tech minded guys . The inline can fit both ways round on my NP TR SO does this make any dif to how well it works ??? I can reach the climb switch both ways round aswell . So if this does effect how well it works what's the best way round ?
I spoke with Cane Creek directly about this topic. Their answer was a resounding: "NO". No impact on performance. I have mine mounted switch on top-tube end, facing down. Like it as CS switch is closer. That said, I don't like how the stanchion/seal area had dirt settling on it. At some point I'm going to turn it around with the can on top-tube side. Haven't gotten around to it because I'll need to switch around my RWC needle bearing.

7. Originally Posted by Jayem
Are you aware that objects fall at 9.8m/s^2? Your fork or shock moves a lot slower in those situations than ramming a 12cm vertical rock face at 25mph. If you work out the math, you can prove this to yourself. Are you confusing high speed damping with forward speed?
Yes and no confusion on my part at all. Bike speed can play a big factor in the shaft speed of a suspension dampener. A g-out usually does take place at higher bike speeds like forcing the bike to change directions into a deep berm at higher speed definitely places the fork and shock shafts into a high speed situation. Also a compression from a harder landing off of a booter will again place the suspension shafts into a high speed situation. These situations are definitely not controlled by the LSC!

I could see maybe your confusion about pre-loading into a booter, step up or other feature as being a LSC situation and if that's what you were referring to then I agree with you on that.

8. Anyone notice light knocking sound when you compress the shock during setup? I just installed DB Inline and I hearing knocking sound when I ride around driveway while setting up the shock by intentionally compressing the suspension.. I had Fox CTD shock before and never heard this sound before.

9. It's not that slight notch about 10mm into the travel is it? That's the negative spring being overpowered by the positve spring and is normal.

Otherwise recheck all your bushings and fittings for correct alignment, fit/wear, and torque.

10. Originally Posted by SingleTrackHound
Anyone notice light knocking sound when you compress the shock during setup? I just installed DB Inline and I hearing knocking sound when I ride around driveway while setting up the shock by intentionally compressing the suspension.. I had Fox CTD shock before and never heard this sound before.
I've noticed this as well yesterday. I was trying out my new fork and bouncing about in the driveway. At first I thought it was the fork, but localized it to the shock. I have about 30 miles on mine so far. I hope it's normal since I'm obviously not the only one having this noise.

11. ## New inline Double Barrel Cane Creek

Originally Posted by Colin+M
I've noticed this as well yesterday. I was trying out my new fork and bouncing about in the driveway. At first I thought it was the fork, but localized it to the shock. I have about 30 miles on mine so far. I hope it's normal since I'm obviously not the only one having this noise.
You can add me to the list, who's going to confirm if it's normal?

12. Originally Posted by manitou2200
Yes and no confusion on my part at all. Bike speed can play a big factor in the shaft speed of a suspension dampener. A g-out usually does take place at higher bike speeds like forcing the bike to change directions into a deep berm at higher speed definitely places the fork and shock shafts into a high speed situation. Also a compression from a harder landing off of a booter will again place the suspension shafts into a high speed situation. These situations are definitely not controlled by the LSC!

I could see maybe your confusion about pre-loading into a booter, step up or other feature as being a LSC situation and if that's what you were referring to then I agree with you on that.
What kind of G-outs are you riding? The shaft speed wouldn't be close to high speed if the LSC circuit were doing its job, unless you was smashing into face of the g-out, instead of riding one with a gradual transition into its ramp.

13. Originally Posted by 2013megaAM
Here's one for you tech minded guys . The inline can fit both ways round on my NP TR SO does this make any dif to how well it works ??? I can reach the climb switch both ways round aswell . So if this does effect how well it works what's the best way round ?
Don't think it affects performance but i like the wiper to be pointed down. That way the couple of cc of oil I have in the air can keeps the wiper seal lubed.

14. Guys can you tell me what your rebound is like fully open ?? I think my rebound has been set to slow I have both rebounds fully open to 0 . Most DBinline riders are useing clicks but 0 on mine I'm not getting a lot of pop . I'm doing jumps drops with rebound fully open and not getting bucked . TF set this up and say they did a internal set up for my frame so I'm assumeing if I give TF a call I could send it back and they can adjust this to faster . All other shocks I've had if rebound was fully open you would be sent over the bars on the jumps/drops I do . I didn't think TF could change this ?? Thanks

15. ## New inline Double Barrel Cane Creek

Have you tried changing your HSR and LSR yet? The first thing I would do is turn your HSR 2 turns clockwise, then turn your LSR something like 10 clicks clockwise just to see how it feels riding. Then maybe take them to the other extreme on a second run. I am no suspension expert, but you do feel a real difference with this shock when changing the settings. I know my TFTtune was out and looked similar to a lot of others for Santa Cruz bikes. Mine is now closer to the factory set up after about 5/6 rides and tweaking. Write down what you feel with the changes and then call them. The guy I spoke to about spacers was very helpful. You also really need to ask them what the internal tune was, as I thought all tuning was only done via the four pots and adding spacers. Which is all user doable.

16. Originally Posted by Rootsboy
Have you tried changing your HSR and LSR yet? The first thing I would do is turn your HSR 2 turns clockwise, then turn your LSR something like 10 clicks clockwise just to see how it feels riding. Then maybe take them to the other extreme on a second run. I am no suspension expert, but you do feel a real difference with this shock when changing the settings. I know my TFTtune was out and looked similar to a lot of others for Santa Cruz bikes. Mine is now closer to the factory set up after about 5/6 rides and tweaking. Write down what you feel with the changes and then call them. The guy I spoke to about spacers was very helpful. You also really need to ask them what the internal tune was, as I thought all tuning was only done via the four pots and adding spacers. Which is all user doable.
No I've not tryed them but when I first got the shock the rebound was really really slow in the bounce in liveing room test so I opened both HSR LSR fully open and that felt better . Out on the trail when in the saddle I do feel I'm getting bucked but standing up and poping off routes/little jumps it feels sluggish and I don't get much pop off things . I shall adjust them both in now to what you've said and go ride just to be 100% sure . Yes I was under the same thought that a internal setup could not be done and setup was up to the rider .cheers very very pleased with this shock just need to get this rebound thing dailed . It's odd tho becouse if I ran my monarch shock with rebound fully open I'd be doing belly surfing on my bars and getting bucked cowboy styleeeee .its odd running the DBinline fully open rebound and it don't do this maybe over damped ?

17. Spoken to TF today told them about the rebound running it fully open 0 0 and they said sounds like somthing is wrong and they have arrange free of charge somone to pic it up Monday and they will check it over )

18. So everyone who owns DB Inline shock has knocking sound sound? I want to confirm this before I call CC.

19. ## New inline Double Barrel Cane Creek

No knocking sound here! No issues at all!

20. ## New inline Double Barrel Cane Creek

Originally Posted by Varaxis
What kind of G-outs are you riding? The shaft speed wouldn't be close to high speed if the LSC circuit were doing its job, unless you was smashing into face of the g-out, instead of riding one with a gradual transition into its ramp.
I was referring to abrupt g-outs conditions. Smooth berm'd g-outs I would tend to agree with you the LSC should help initially but if your bike speed is high then it will transition to a HSC condition.

21. Originally Posted by SingleTrackHound
So everyone who owns DB Inline shock has knocking sound sound? I want to confirm this before I call CC.
It's not the clutch in your derailleur?

22. I will turn off the clutch to see if it is. I never heard this noise until I installed DB Inline on my bike yesterday so I will reinstall my previous Fox CTD shock to confirm too.

23. Originally Posted by SingleTrackHound
So everyone who owns DB Inline shock has knocking sound sound? I want to confirm this before I call CC.
No knocking here aswell

24. I didn't notice mine knocking initially, but after 3 rides it is definitely there. It's when the shock returns to top out that I notice it.

25. Originally Posted by SingleTrackHound
Anyone notice light knocking sound when you compress the shock during setup? I just installed DB Inline and I hearing knocking sound when I ride around driveway while setting up the shock by intentionally compressing the suspension.. I had Fox CTD shock before and never heard this sound before.
No knocking at all for me (200x50 model)

26. Update:

Just reinstalled the previous Fox CTD shock and I still hear the same knocking noise. Disengaged clutch on derailleur and still knocking sound. There's nothing wrong with DB Inline shock I have.

27. Originally Posted by SingleTrackHound
Update:

Just reinstalled the previous Fox CTD shock and I still hear the same knocking noise. Disengaged clutch on derailleur and still knocking sound. There's nothing wrong with DB Inline shock I have.
Hmm...well it all started when you removed the Fox and installed the CC. It's still there after having reinstalled the Fox. So, something occurred during the uninstall/install. Bushings installed correctly? Bolts tightened to spec?

28. My guess is my bike developed this noise at some point but I didnt noticed it since riding bike on the trail masked the knocking sound. Now I am noticing the sound since I am testing the shock in the driveway which much quieter than trail. Btw both shocks have its own set of bushing and reducers and bolts tightened to 95 inch/lbs spec. I dont want to derail the thread here. Nothing wrong with DB Inline shock I have.

29. ## New inline Double Barrel Cane Creek

Just a quick thing I found out today, not sure if it's relevant. I went to swap the inline to the opposite way today. I had issue where some of the loctight had run from the thread of the bolt to the inside of the metal insert that sits inside the bushing. Any was a pig to get out. And needed help from a mechanic friend. We got it sorted. But he noticed one of the bushings was super tight and thought it may have been so tight as not to move. And there may have been a possibility of movement by the washers against the frame mounts. We tapped a socket through and this made it nice and snug when we put the insert back in. I am more sure how tight the mounting hardware is meant to be. One was ok and the other not.

30. Hi does LSR effect how fast HSR IS ????

31. Originally Posted by 2013megaAM
Hi does LSR effect how fast HSR IS ????
Pretty sure they are independent circuits and don't affect each other. Only a air pressure should affect them.

32. They do affect each other. If you open LSR all the way up then the HSR (poppet) will open at a higher shaft speed because more oil is being allowed to flow through the LSR port, and viceversa.

33. Originally Posted by tacubaya
They do affect each other. If you open LSR all the way up then the HSR (poppet) will open at a higher shaft speed because more oil is being allowed to flow through the LSR port, and viceversa.
Correct. For any shock with real high and low speed circuits, this is true.

34. Can somone please do me a favor please . Fully open LSR&HSR and let me know how fast your inline returns ? Mine does return but feels like it should be faster than it is fully open .im not sure if mine has a issue or not .

35. Originally Posted by 2013megaAM
Can somone please do me a favor please . Fully open LSR&HSR and let me know how fast your inline returns ? Mine does return but feels like it should be faster than it is fully open .im not sure if mine has a issue or not .
Not to worry I'm going to get my LBS to check it for me hopefully confirm what im saying as I've contacted TF about the rebound but seems a little unsure about what I'm saying .

36. Anyone got any ideas on makeing your own volume spacers ? I was thinking a old tyre sidewall ?

37. Originally Posted by 2013megaAM
Anyone got any ideas on makeing your own volume spacers ? I was thinking a old tyre sidewall ?
With all due respect, its a \$500 shock. Not worth it if it doesn't work or messes something up.

38. They have no control over the leverage ratio of your bike. Sometimes, more volume reduction is warranted.

39. Originally Posted by Scotth72
They have no control over the leverage ratio of your bike. Sometimes, more volume reduction is warranted.
I believe BXCc is suggesting that rigging up a homemade volume reducer is not the best idea. Thus, the "it" being the homemade reducer.

2013mega.....I called up CC and they sent me one large spacer for free.

40. Originally Posted by Scotth72
They have no control over the leverage ratio of your bike. Sometimes, more volume reduction is warranted.
I believe what BXCc ment was don't be cheap with a \$500 shock, get the volume spacer that is ment for the shock.
The volume spacer that comes with the shock has a waffle pattern in it for more than one reason.

41. Originally Posted by material guy
I believe what BXCc ment was don't be cheap with a \$500 shock, get the volume spacer that is ment for the shock.
The volume spacer that comes with the shock has a waffle pattern in it for more than one reason.
So you can cut it down in straight lines. Use something made of similar material, it will be fine.

42. Originally Posted by 2013megaAM
Anyone got any ideas on makeing your own volume spacers ? I was thinking a old tyre sidewall ?
I've used p-tex ski base material in the past but I think Cane Creek will send you spacer.

Originally Posted by BXCc
With all due respect, its a \$500 shock. Not worth it if it doesn't work or messes something up.
This shock is not for everyone! If you're not willing to put in the time or the effort to dial in the best tune then you might as well use an off the shelf tune on your Fox, RS, X Fusion shock or hire a tuning outfit like Push or Avalanche to tune your shock, then all you have to do is set air pressure and rebound dampening.

Originally Posted by Scotth72
They have no control over the leverage ratio of your bike. Sometimes, more volume reduction is warranted.
Bingo! Cane Creek uses a high volume air canister on these shocks to provide a broad range of tuning for the user base. Most of the trail type bikes that are the targeted use for this shock need to use some air volume reduction to control bottom out.

Originally Posted by challybert
I believe BXCc is suggesting that rigging up a homemade volume reducer is not the best idea. Thus, the "it" being the homemade reducer.

2013mega.....I called up CC and they sent me one large spacer for free.
Exactly! give CC a call. I personally think the retail dealers of these shocks are slacking a bit. They need to provide more service to the user, especially if they want to be considered a specialty shop!

Originally Posted by material guy
I believe what BXCc ment was don't be cheap with a \$500 shock, get the volume spacer that is ment for the shock.
The volume spacer that comes with the shock has a waffle pattern in it for more than one reason.
The only reason for the waffle pattern is to give some cutting guidelines. A spacer is a spacer! It could be putty or a hard plastic and it will work as long as it does not foul the spring air or passages. Less dense material will compress more under the air pressure and not take up as much volume as a denser material.

43. One other reason for the waffle pattern is that where the air valve is, with a solid spacer (as in the one for the reg DB Air) it can and will block the air passage when you adjust the air pressure. This makes for a real pain in the ass setting things up.
Yes this happened to myself.

44. Originally Posted by 2013megaAM
Anyone got any ideas on makeing your own volume spacers ? I was thinking a old tyre sidewall ?
should be a volume reducer in the shock box. I have to use the whole one in mine.

45. Oops I cut to strips off my large volume spacer . Can I pop these 2 thin strips back in ?

46. Originally Posted by POAH
should be a volume reducer in the shock box. I have to use the whole one in mine.
yep got one in the box used it and cut 2 strips off it then went a rode proper trails so need more spacers lol should of waited until I hit the harder trails . Amazing how this inline feels on proper trails .last time I hit the same trail with the monarch and shock felt dead on the rough stuff . Now I can feel the shock working eating up all the fast bumps made me feel so much more planted and in controll . Still after tweeting my rebound is not fast . Don't get me wrong it's fast when in the saddle and standing the problem comes when I preload the rear to hop it's like its sucking to much oil the more you preload . I'm not sure if this is just how fast it get with CC Shocks as I have nothing to compare to ( I've spoken with TF and I kinda got the impression they thought I was adusting it wrong . Both LSR&HSR are fully open counter clockwise. How fast is yours if fully open ? Would you be able to ride down a steepish trail with little booters with rebound fully open like mine ? This rebound thing is pissing me off to be honest as TF kinda come across as if I don't know what I'm doing and im wrong . So im trying to get a idea of others rebound fully open ? When I put the monarch on with full rebound open its really fast and you can feel it allmost top out .surley that's how fast the inline should be ? Must be away of testing if what I'm saying is correct ? I'm not crazy I've had many top shocks over the years and all of them with rebound fully open would be way to fast for booters . Sorry for the rant just don't want to look stupid to TF IF this is CC max rebound .cheers

47. Originally Posted by 2013megaAM
Oops I cut to strips off my large volume spacer . Can I pop these 2 thin strips back in ?
yes these can be put back in, they are considered small spacers. it explains that on the little card which was in the plastic bag that the large spacer came in.
i also had one large and cut 2 strips off, only to realise after a few rides that i needed the whole lot in there.

48. Originally Posted by Rootsboy
yes these can be put back in, they are considered small spacers. it explains that on the little card which was in the plastic bag that the large spacer came in.
i also had one large and cut 2 strips off, only to realise after a few rides that i needed the whole lot in there.
cheers buddy glad to know I'm not the only one

49. Originally Posted by Rootsboy
yes these can be put back in, they are considered small spacers. it explains that on the little card which was in the plastic bag that the large spacer came in.
i also had one large and cut 2 strips off, only to realise after a few rides that i needed the whole lot in there.

me too ha ha ha ha

50. a couple of photos just to show you how the inline looks mounted both ways. sorry one of the shots is a little blurry, and did not notice until about to post this.

51. Originally Posted by Rootsboy
a couple of photos just to show you how the inline looks mounted both ways. sorry one of the shots is a little blurry, and did not notice until about to post this.

From a pure good looks standpoint, can high looks better. I'm switching mine around to can high at some point. I don't like the dirt settling on the seals when positioned can low. I now know I rarely use the CS switch so the idea of it being a bit less conveniently located is a none issue.

52. ## New inline Double Barrel Cane Creek

Yep! I done it for that same reason. Where the switch is has hardly made any difference when I tested on my ride out yesterday.

53. All I meant by my previous post was that if you are willing and able to spend \$400 to \$500 on a shock, it probably won't break the bank to use the proper spacer. I'm all for experimenting with the setup. It's why I went with the Inline. As far as positioning goes, when I put my spacer in I spun the can 90* so the airvalve points from right to left. It's nice having options.

54. Originally Posted by BXCc
All I meant by my previous post was that if you are willing and able to spend \$400 to \$500 on a shock, it probably won't break the bank to use the proper spacer. I'm all for experimenting with the setup. It's why I went with the Inline. As far as positioning goes, when I put my spacer in I spun the can 90* so the airvalve points from right to left. It's nice having options.
hay I asked and I do agree and I've asked CC to send me more ) good times roll )

55. UPDATE my inline is with TF its been DIENO tested and no problem with REBOUND Had a long chat with TF tech guy and we came up with its a compression problem that 160psi not giveing me enough charge to boost me . We agreed to try more volume spacers to make the shock more progressive and hopefully give the boost im after . So it's good news no issue with the shock just need to find that sweet spot . Due to the inlines bigger air can 160psi is not enough to charge the shock for boost . Where as my monarch with smaller aircan at 160psi is ) this exspains a lot ) TF ALLSO pointed out that CC are setting the inline to more trail setup rather than a all mounting setup .

56. Originally Posted by 2013megaAM
TF ALLSO pointed out that CC are setting the inline to more trail setup rather than a all mounting setup .
What does that mean? If you are riding all of the mountain, does it include the trails?

57. Originally Posted by Jayem
What does that mean? If you are riding all of the mountain, does it include the trails?
lol I don't know I didn't ask my head was over shot with tech talk at that point . But I'm assuming IT means aiming for a more stiffer setup more progressive for trail rideing rather than AM . take it as you will ) that's what I was told . Still fingers crossed my shock will come back better than it was or I'll be changeing for another kinda shock . TF said to give it another try and if I'm still not happy then we can talk about changeing shocks . What a brill service )))

58. Originally Posted by 2013megaAM
UPDATE my inline is with TF its been DIENO tested and no problem with REBOUND Had a long chat with TF tech guy and we came up with its a compression problem that 160psi not giveing me enough charge to boost me . We agreed to try more volume spacers to make the shock more progressive and hopefully give the boost im after . So it's good news no issue with the shock just need to find that sweet spot . Due to the inlines bigger air can 160psi is not enough to charge the shock for boost . Where as my monarch with smaller aircan at 160psi is ) this exspains a lot ) TF ALLSO pointed out that CC are setting the inline to more trail setup rather than a all mounting setup .
Not sure if volume spacer will make that big a difference, my story: Fork out for warranty for a month so I was fiddling and servicing the bike. Added the whole uncut blue volume spacer. To achieve 16mm of sag (7.875x2.25) I had to reduce the psi from 160 down to 120. I guarantee I have not lost any body fat in the down time. I have not re-bracketed the shock yet but it feels really really close to spot on as-is which is playing with my head. The "boost" theory could explain why the HSR still feels ok.

59. ## New inline Double Barrel Cane Creek

I agree with Jayem that the trail set up comment was strange and kind of vague. These CC DB shocks are all so adjustable and tune-able that I can't see CC doing any real set up different on these other than the range of adjustment is a little narrower than the DB Air or coil.

The added air volume spacer will help the shock to be more progressive in the spring rate and seeing as how this bike has only 130 mm of travel to use the 50 mm stroke the more progressive nature should help the bike have more pop as long as it's not overly dampened in either compression or rebound. My Spider 29 with the full V spacer is plenty lively with good pop when I want it.

60. U
Originally Posted by manitou2200
I agree with Jayem that the trail set up comment was strange and kind of vague. These CC DB shocks are all so adjustable and tune-able that I can't see CC doing any real set up different on these other than the range of adjustment is a little narrower than the DB Air or coil.

The added air volume spacer will help the shock to be more progressive in the spring rate and seeing as how this bike has only 130 mm of travel to use the 50 mm stroke the more progressive nature should help the bike have more pop as long as it's not overly dampened in either compression or rebound. My Spider 29 with the full V spacer is plenty lively with good pop when I want it.
Got my shock back today seems TF found a issue after our chat on the phone .Heres the info
Assessed the shock & noted a quad ring issue
Prepped and set up me a new shock
2 volume spacers fitted
I don't know what a quad ring is but they replaced me with a new shock so happy with that ) Great service from TF

61. 2 V spacers fitted and I can feel a huge difrance in feel . Feels a lot stiffer in mid Stoke maybe a bit to stiff but off to test this out now . )

62. I need to get another volume spacer for mine

63. 2 spacers is to much ..All sorted now feels much much better
160psi 15mm sag
HSC 1
LSC 10
LSR 6
HSR 1
Getting lots more pop now ) useing 1 and half spacers

64. Originally Posted by 2013megaAM
2 spacers is to much ..All sorted now feels much much better
160psi 15mm sag
HSC 1
LSC 10
LSR 6
HSR 1
Getting lots more pop now ) useing 1 and half spacers
Great to hear you have it worked out. On my 5010 I reduced my spacer to 3/5ths of a large (aka 3 small spacers). With the large spacer I was leaving 7-10mm of travel on the table after each ride, with LSC and HSC already set pretty low. My current settings

3 small spacers

HSC 1.5 (up from 1 with one large spacer installed)
LSC 5 (no change)
HSR 2.25 (up from 2)
LSR 7 (no change)

Only have 2 rides with the adjusted set-up. Feels as great as before but I am now using all the travel (without noticing it) at some point during my ride.

edit highlighted in blue

65. G
Originally Posted by challybert
Great to hear you have it worked out. On my 5010 I reduced my spacer to 3/5ths of a large (aka 3 small spacers). With the large spacer I was leaving 7-10mm of travel on the table after each ride, with LSC and HSC already set pretty low. My current settings

3 small spacers

HSC 1.5 (up from 1 with one large spacer installed)
LSC 5 (no change)
HSR 2.25 (up from 2)
LSR 7 (no change)

Only have 2 rides with the adjusted set-up. Feels as great as before but I am now using all the travel (without noticing it) at some point during my ride.

edit highlighted in blue
good stuff I ALLSO noticed I was about 7mm short of useing all the travel . With all air out the shock I noticed about 3mm that just does not get used atall so I'm about 3mm from bottom out so that's ok that gives me room for error if I have the odd harder landing than normal

66. Originally Posted by 2013megaAM
G good stuff I ALLSO noticed I was about 7mm short of useing all the travel . With all air out the shock I noticed about 3mm that just does not get used atall so I'm about 3mm from bottom out so that's ok that gives me room for error if I have the odd harder landing than normal
Yup. Important to measure how far the ring moved from the seal/can end vs. the "what's left" measurement from the bottom.

I wanted to find the "Didn't notice it but I used it all" setting for the shock for the trails I routinely ride (90% of my time on the bike). Not enough of a sample yet to say I'm there, but getting really close.

67. oops, sorry wrong thread...duh. Well, I'll keep it here too. Re: SC 5010

OK...can high (near top tube), CS switch up (facing top tube). Released all air. With shock bottomed out:
CS Switch in climb position: about 10-12mm of clearance with top tube. However, when CS switch is all the way in the other direction, only about 2mm of clearance as the tip of the switch comes very near the cable holder thingamajiger on the bottom of the top tube.

68. ## New inline Double Barrel Cane Creek

I flipped my Inline around on my Spider 29, air can forward, CS down. I'm pretty certain it would fit CS up but it would be harder to use the CS in the up position near the swing link. I can access the CS easily seated when it's facing down near the swing link.

69. ## New inline Double Barrel Cane Creek

Originally Posted by challybert
Its relative to this thread also!

70. Originally Posted by manitou2200
Its relative to this thread also!
Ok...it's back...

71. I've tried it with the can down and CS up and the switch would hit the to tube. Here it is with the can twisted 90*

72. Originally Posted by BXCc
I've tried it with the can down and CS up and the switch would hit the to tube. Here it is with the can twisted 90*
Hmm....see post #1740 at link below. It' on a medium Bronson, not a 5010. I asked about clearance further down in the thread. He claims the switch doesn't hit. Shock stroke length and related frame geometry may be different between Bronson and 5010.

73. Originally Posted by challybert
Hmm....see post #1740 at link below. It' on a medium Bronson, not a 5010. I asked about clearance further down in the thread. He claims the switch doesn't hit. Shock stroke length and related frame geometry may be different between Bronson and 5010.

ive got my inline set up like yours can low . I can put mine eather way so think I'm going to put it can high better for crap running off the seal and for the lube inside to do its job

74. I've noticed with the air can LOW the volume spacers slide down to the bottom maybe covering over the air hole ? SO if you move the shock to can high it must be better for this ?

75. Originally Posted by Jayem
What does that mean? If you are riding all of the mountain, does it include the trails?
If I am not mistaken trail will be firmer off the bottom, but more linear in the spring curve. All mountain would be setup for rougher trails so softer initially with more ramp at the end to protect from bottoming.

76. Originally Posted by 2013megaAM
I've noticed with the air can LOW the volume spacers slide down to the bottom maybe covering over the air hole ? SO if you move the shock to can high it must be better for this ?
No its fine.

77. Hi all! Any information about the base tune for. Banshee Spitfire v2?? I just got mi inline and couldny find information yet

78. ## New inline Double Barrel Cane Creek

Originally Posted by Salespunk
If I am not mistaken trail will be firmer off the bottom, but more linear in the spring curve. All mountain would be setup for rougher trails so softer initially with more ramp at the end to protect from bottoming.
The leverage rate(s) of the bike have more influence on these traits than the shock actually has. Cane Creek does not tune it for a trail bike or a downhill bike. They leave it wide open or they might set a base tune if they have one developed for your bike. Setting up the shock for your bike including spring rate is your responsibility or your shop if you are not able to do it. The Inline has an XV air can and be set up to do whatever the stroke will accommodate.

79. Very happy to report my in line is running very very well now and I've found for my NUKEPROOF TR you need 1 and 2 strips of spacers and the biggest thing I found that helps give you more pop is running the shock with the air can high middle of the frame . Don't know why but as soon as I changed it round it 100% works better . Just need to back off LSC a few clicks I think but I'm pretty much set . Like I said don't know why but the shock seems to preload better and pop better with air can high so pleased with that looks better aswell )

80. Originally Posted by Salespunk
If I am not mistaken trail will be firmer off the bottom, but more linear in the spring curve. All mountain would be setup for rougher trails so softer initially with more ramp at the end to protect from bottoming.
When I kept pressing Cane Creek for info on whether I should get the Bronson specific CC DB or just the CC Inline they indicated to me that some of the changes that Santa Cruz requested in the Bronson specific double barrell tuning were incorporated in to the standard tuning of the Inline. In essence, more trail bike and less downhill type valving. I assume the trail bike tuning offers a better pedaling platform and a more linear feel. They also said that the typical Inline customer is going to better served by this sort of valving and all I can say is that they nailed it.

My Inline offers every bit the platform that my stock Fox CTD did but it just performs absolutely better everywhere. Seriously, I love this shock. I do use every bit of the travel however even though the toughest thing i do is maybe a 3' vertical drop while moving pretty fast.

This Inline shock along w/ my new Fox 36mm forks has made me a more confident and faster rider right away.

Is a notable oily residue normal for a newish (ridden 3x now) Inline shock?

81. Un
Originally Posted by Suns_PSD
When I kept pressing Cane Creek for info on whether I should get the Bronson specific CC DB or just the CC Inline they indicated to me that some of the changes that Santa Cruz requested in the Bronson specific double barrell tuning were incorporated in to the standard tuning of the Inline. In essence, more trail bike and less downhill type valving. I assume the trail bike tuning offers a better pedaling platform and a more linear feel. They also said that the typical Inline customer is going to better served by this sort of valving and all I can say is that they nailed it.

My Inline offers every bit the platform that my stock Fox CTD did but it just performs absolutely better everywhere. Seriously, I love this shock. I do use every bit of the travel however even though the toughest thing i do is maybe a 3' vertical drop while moving pretty fast.

This Inline shock along w/ my new Fox 36mm forks has made me a more confident and faster rider right away.

Is a notable oily residue normal for a newish (ridden 3x now) Inline shock?
yes this is normal it's just lube from inside that keeps things running nice and smooth )

82. I hope I did not overlook it but does someone have some experience with this shock on a 27.5 Heckler?

Thanks

83. Originally Posted by acer66
I hope I did not overlook it but does someone have some experience with this shock on a 27.5 Heckler?

Thanks
I have a Morewood Shova St which is very similar to the Heckler as far as suspension design. This is the best shock I have tried so far. It has solved my pedal strike issue and that in itself is great!

I am using all the spacers to reduce volume, which is what my bike needs plus I weigh 245 dressed out. It rides high in its travel without being harsh and I don't have to run a ridiculous amount of rebound to control the shock because of the higher pressure I run due to my weight. I am getting all of the travel with the exception of 10 to 15mm of travel but I really haven't hammered the shock yet. I've ridden technical trails with rocks and roots, but nothing with anything "extreme" yet.

I haven't fully tuned the shock in, but it's been really nice so far. I'll wait for a real review until I get some major saddle time in on it.

84. Originally Posted by mrgto
I have a Morewood Shova St which is very similar to the Heckler as far as suspension design. This is the best shock I have tried so far. It has solved my pedal strike issue and that in itself is great!

I am using all the spacers to reduce volume, which is what my bike needs plus I weigh 245 dressed out. It rides high in its travel without being harsh and I don't have to run a ridiculous amount of rebound to control the shock because of the higher pressure I run due to my weight. I am getting all of the travel with the exception of 10 to 15mm of travel but I really haven't hammered the shock yet. I've ridden technical trails with rocks and roots, but nothing with anything "extreme" yet.

I haven't fully tuned the shock in, but it's been really nice so far. I'll wait for a real review until I get some major saddle time in on it.
Cool and please keep us posted.

85. Originally Posted by mrgto
I have a Morewood Shova St which is very similar to the Heckler as far as suspension design. This is the best shock I have tried so far. It has solved my pedal strike issue and that in itself is great!

I am using all the spacers to reduce volume, which is what my bike needs plus I weigh 245 dressed out. It rides high in its travel without being harsh and I don't have to run a ridiculous amount of rebound to control the shock because of the higher pressure I run due to my weight. I am getting all of the travel with the exception of 10 to 15mm of travel but I really haven't hammered the shock yet. I've ridden technical trails with rocks and roots, but nothing with anything "extreme" yet.

I haven't fully tuned the shock in, but it's been really nice so far. I'll wait for a real review until I get some major saddle time in on it.

Quick question, I'm similar size/weight on a rocker actuated single pivot, I've found that I like the shock pretty much maxed out on HSC/HSR, how are you finding the adjustments? I would almost like some more HSC/HSR cause it still kinda feels like it's rebounding a bit on the quick side on bigger stuff. I have to take a look at the volume spacers, not sure if there are any installed.

86. Originally Posted by manitou2200
The leverage rate(s) of the bike have more influence on these traits than the shock actually has. Cane Creek does not tune it for a trail bike or a downhill bike. They leave it wide open or they might set a base tune if they have one developed for your bike. Setting up the shock for your bike including spring rate is your responsibility or your shop if you are not able to do it. The Inline has an XV air can and be set up to do whatever the stroke will accommodate.
I believe the original comment was regarding the DBInline being a more "trail" oriented offering from CC. When comparing it to the DBAir, Salespunk's comment is inline (no pun intended) with what I found.

On my E29'er, with both the DBInline and the DBAir set to the factory recommended tune and sag, the DBAir is a much more active shock with better small bump sensitivity but controlled thru the stroke. An excellent compliment to my new Float 36 and the bike feels VERY balanced. The DBInline felt like a firmer pedaling platform overall but I was able to get thru the stroke easier. To be fair, I didn't play with more spacers and might have been able to get it closer to the DBAir feel with time.

I'm not a guy who will ever set KOM's uphill so I'm rolling w/ the DBAir for now. The weight difference was only 170'ish grams and I'll take that small bump compliance. If I'm going on a flat'ish ride I can always bump up the LSC to get better pedaling performance.

-r.

87. ## New inline Double Barrel Cane Creek

Originally Posted by rondre3000
I believe the original comment was regarding the DBInline being a more "trail" oriented offering from CC. When comparing it to the DBAir, Salespunk's comment is inline (no pun intended) with what I found.

On my E29'er, with both the DBInline and the DBAir set to the factory recommended tune and sag, the DBAir is a much more active shock with better small bump sensitivity but controlled thru the stroke. An excellent compliment to my new Float 36 and the bike feels VERY balanced. The DBInline felt like a firmer pedaling platform overall but I was able to get thru the stroke easier. To be fair, I didn't play with more spacers and might have been able to get it closer to the DBAir feel with time.

I'm not a guy who will ever set KOM's uphill so I'm rolling w/ the DBAir for now. The weight difference was only 170'ish grams and I'll take that small bump compliance. If I'm going on a flat'ish ride I can always bump up the LSC to get better pedaling performance.

-r.
I believe that the DBAir is more plush as compared to the Inline. There's more volume in the positive and negative air and the dampening circuits have a broader range of adjustment with higher oil volume. It's more shock all the way around as is the DBCoil as compared to the DBAir. Your E29 came with the DBAir correct? Is it not the CS version? The E29 has good small bump performance to begin with and more shock would just enhance that trait. The new E29's come with the Inline standard now, don't they?

CC targeted trail bikes with the Inline which is a huge and broad segment when you think about it. From LTXC to all mountain (dare I say enduro &#128556 bikes!

The Inline is way more plush than any shock I've had on my Spider 29AL and I'll put a longer stroke Inline on my Spider Comp to give it 145ish travel. I think my Spider Comp will build up around 25.5 or 26 lbs. with a 140 Pike and the Inline. I'm smaller in build and I like to climb so its a balance of features vs weight. I thought about the DBAir for the S comp but I'll save a little weight with the Inline and it should still be a very fun all mountain type trail bike.

88. Originally Posted by rondre3000
I believe the original comment was regarding the DBInline being a more "trail" oriented offering from CC. When comparing it to the DBAir, Salespunk's comment is inline (no pun intended) with what I found.

On my E29'er, with both the DBInline and the DBAir set to the factory recommended tune and sag, the DBAir is a much more active shock with better small bump sensitivity but controlled thru the stroke. An excellent compliment to my new Float 36 and the bike feels VERY balanced. The DBInline felt like a firmer pedaling platform overall but I was able to get thru the stroke easier. To be fair, I didn't play with more spacers and might have been able to get it closer to the DBAir feel with time.

I'm not a guy who will ever set KOM's uphill so I'm rolling w/ the DBAir for now. The weight difference was only 170'ish grams and I'll take that small bump compliance. If I'm going on a flat'ish ride I can always bump up the LSC to get better pedaling performance.

-r.
I'm about to buy an E29 and wondering about the difference so that was really helpful. Thanks. Do you have any time on a Fox on that bike to compare?
The Fox on my Stumpy Evo 29 has poor mid stroke control and I end up running too much rebound to try to control it. I don't want a similar experience with the greater travel on the Enduro. I've been planning to run the Inline with it and think it will be great.

89. Had my DB Inline for about 4 months. Normally a very fine mist of oil is discharged when I let air out of the shock or when removing the pump after adding air. No biggie. However, I've noticed over the past few days that a lot more oil is coming out the schrader valve. Not a misting but more like enough to cover a a dime.

Any thoughts?

90. ## New inline Double Barrel Cane Creek

I don't have a answer for your question but I am wondering why you are using a pump so often, is it losing air?

91. Originally Posted by MTBMILES
I don't have a answer for your question but I am wondering why you are using a pump so often, is it losing air?
No loss of air. Put a new chain on so wanted to compress the suspension down and did some cleaning/disassembly of upper suspension link.

92. ## New inline Double Barrel Cane Creek

Did you have the bicycle upside down, maybe oil ran into the air valve?

93. Originally Posted by MTBMILES
Did you have the bicycle upside down, maybe oil ran into the air valve?
Nope store wheels down as always. Absolutely nothing has changed in the past week vs the past 4 months. I'll just ride it this weekend and give CC a call next week. I was just checking in to see if anybody else has had this potential issue.

94. ## New inline Double Barrel Cane Creek

I'd have to agree on the frequency of having to check your shock. Unless you've changed the suspension rate or noticed a big change in the sag or the suspension performance, I'm not sure the need to put a pump on it.

95. Ok, so I have read a bunch of this thread, but not all. I see that ppl think this shock is 100x better than Fox CTD. My question is this, will I give up any climbing prowess by going to a DB Inline? This would go on a Tallboy LTc. I do love DH's, but honestly I am not willing to give up any climbing performance. I use the "trail" mode frequently on my CTD to climb fire roads and smoother single track. I understand the CC will offer better performance on techy climbs, which I do love, but the majority of my climbs are not technical.

96. If you only use "trail" on Fox CTD to climb then you will be happy with the DBIL. On the DBIL if you turn on the climb switch all the way it will slow down the LSC a lot but it is by no means a lockout like the climb mode on the Fox.

Originally Posted by GMM
Ok, so I have read a bunch of this thread, but not all. I see that ppl think this shock is 100x better than Fox CTD. My question is this, will I give up any climbing prowess by going to a DB Inline? This would go on a Tallboy LTc. I do love DH's, but honestly I am not willing to give up any climbing performance. I use the "trail" mode frequently on my CTD to climb fire roads and smoother single track. I understand the CC will offer better performance on techy climbs, which I do love, but the majority of my climbs are not technical.

97. Thanks teK

98. I come from e stumpy evo with the fox float ctd, changed the bike this year to E29 with the in-line, I loved the stumpy, but Omg what a difference the enduro with this sock it climbs in my opinion technical terain much better than my stumpy and on the dh Moore composed we all know the E29 is a good dh'er, any way the in-line is really tunable to everyone's taste I Wheight about 77 kg fully equipped, I run 160 psi 1 big volume spacer and 2 small ones I left the base setting and just added 1/4 of Hsc and 1/4 hsr I found that like this is suited for a variety of conditions, for smother trails I run the shock in half way position to get moore peddleing platform. All in all amazing shock, if you are patient and play with it a bit is amazing the amount of traction you get from that small little bugger, if not we'll you'll probably not even read this. Good luck and happy trails.

99. Hi All

Last week another reader highlighted/commented in Specialized link, that Cane Creek (CC) have an warranty issue with their DBinline shock.

Important Safety Information

Apparently the HSR + or - label have been installed in the wrong direction.
This may effect how everyone has been tuning their 'DBinline' shocks?
My shock is one of these effected and in contacting CC, I was replied overnight and with a new label sent via USPS.
Excellent response for Cane Creek

100. ## New inline Double Barrel Cane Creek

I have one of the shocks that was effected by this. And am waiting for them to send me some sticker to put to the shock I guess. To be honest when I had been setting my shock up I was doing it the correct way, as I was just working it out by doing all the turns clockwise to get the clicks right. I did not pay any attention to the markings on the side.

Page 4 of 5 First 12345 Last

#### Posting Permissions

• You may not post new threads
• You may not post replies
• You may not post attachments
• You may not edit your posts
•