New inline Double Barrel Cane Creek

[rondre3000]

Can anyone with a Bronson confirm whether a DBInline HAS to be installed in this orientation?



There should be plenty of frame clearance to install with the air chamber in the forward position, but I've only ever seen them installed as above.



Thanks!

[Golf_Chick]

it fits both way rounds, the OH advised I put mine that way as well so the dials and climb switch dont continually move but I tried it the other way first so can confirm it will fit

[Hobine]

Can anyone with a Bronson confirm whether a DBInline HAS to be installed in this orientation?



There should be plenty of frame clearance to install with the air chamber in the forward position, but I've only ever seen them installed as above.



Thanks!

I don't have a Bronson but I installed the shock the same way as your picture on my Carbine because it puts the climb switch in a convenient position.

[Warp]

The Fox and RS are not junk...

Sorry, some models are junk. My CTD is. Is not only overdamped, but spikes/dives all at the wrong times. It holds air nicely and that's the best thing I can say from it.

I can feel when a shock needs a bit of tuning and be good from there. Like my Vector. That one is a good shock that just needs some tuning to my weight, etc.

The CTD is not there, really. Not that I expect it to.

Yes your mounting hardware understanding is correct. You only need an open ended wrench and an Allen/hex key to remove the pivot bolt at the bottom, same as the top.

Pablo is right, no special tools necessary. The lower mount is a little tricky to mount, compared to the upper one, but that's it.

Sorry for the OT.

[teK--]

Heaps of previews of this shock explain that you can remove the air can and fit/remove volume spacers without removing the shock from the bike.

After reading the manual I'm just not sure how this is possible. Has anyone figured this out?

[teK--]

Dw just found it. might not work for all frames depending on clearance.

Cane Creek DBinline Volume Spacer Installation - bturman - Mountain Biking Videos - Vital MTB

[manitou2200]

Yes but it might not work on all bikes as teK said. You deflate the shock, remove the circlip on the air can and twist and slide it down. Make your spacer changes and reverse. Super easy!

[manitou2200]

Sorry, some models are junk. My CTD is. Is not only overdamped, but spikes/dives all at the wrong times. It holds air nicely and that's the best thing I can say from it.

I can feel when a shock needs a bit of tuning and be good from there. Like my Vector. That one is a good shock that just needs some tuning to my weight, etc.

The CTD is not there, really. Not that I expect it to.





Pablo is right, no special tools necessary. The lower mount is a little tricky to mount, compared to the upper one, but that's it.

Sorry for the OT.

Warp, I'm sure you're right about the CTD, I'll take your word on that, I've not used any of them. I did like my RP3's ok and I like the Monarchs. I am going to get a Debonair kit for the Monarch and play with it some and I'll have a back up shock if I need it. They all pale compared to the Inline. The Inline adjustability just rocks. My bike is so much more lively now with the Inline (and Pike) on it! The added oil volume and the dampening circuits up top help it to keep the oil cooler which the Monarchs and Floats struggle with.

[MikeC90]

Thanks for the clarification regarding the Trance. Shall start shopping for the shock after payday

[saruti]

hi guys

just got the inline yesterday.
bought it for my MONDRAKER FOXY 2013. size M
and guess what?.....
it cant be installed into this frame!
F#U$C^K$!!
I want to brake the walls right now!!!!!!

[pablobell]

If the walls are moving, you've got bigger problems.

[teK--]

That sucks.

The CC website does show none of their shocks fit your bike, however I'm still surprised since I recall reading that part of the design brief was that the shock would fit any bike which could fit a Fox RP3 shock.

hi guys

just got the inline yesterday.
bought it for my MONDRAKER FOXY 2013. size M
and guess what?.....
it cant be installed into this frame!
F#U$C^K$!!
I want to brake the walls right now!!!!!!

[saruti]

I've asked CC in an email about it
they said it will fit....
luckily, the distributor here is a friend. and he will take it off my hands. (before I'll break\kill something!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! )

[manitou2200]

Relax dude! It's just a shock, no need to stress, there is more than enough stressful issues in the world now!

Have you tried flipping the shock end to end and rotating the air can? I'm trying to help you here. It's a great shock for most trail type bikes!

[TwoTone]

I've asked CC in an email about it
they said it will fit....
luckily, the distributor here is a friend. and he will take it off my hands. (before I'll break\kill something!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! )

Relax dude! It's just a shock, no need to stress, there is more than enough stressful issues in the world now!

Have you tried flipping the shock end to end and rotating the air can? I'm trying to help you here. It's a great shock for most trail type bikes!

This, when I got my DBAcs I had to rotate the can so that the air valve was 90 degrees out from where it came stock.

What frame saruti?

[saruti]

the frame is a Mondraker FOXY 2013.
I've tried everything.
it doesn't fit

[manitou2200]

Sorry, I don't know the company or the bike. Can you get a Debonair Monarch to fit it? That might be your best bet.

[Warp]

the frame is a Mondraker FOXY 2013.
I've tried everything.
it doesn't fit

Check this thread... http://forums.mtbr.com/27-5-650b/mon...-a-902787.html

It looks like it doesn't fit. I can see either the air can or the head of the shock not fitting.

You are better off getting a Float X and having it tuned by someone. Bummer.

[2013megaAM]

Phoned TF.TUNED and the inline seems to be spot on to upgrade my nukeproof TR . MY MAIN concern is all the ways you can set it up. TF said they will tune it for my frame and rideing so I'm hopeing I want have to mess with setup at all apart from some jumping rebound

[POAH]

I got mine from TF, have had to do very little in the way of fiddling. main added bit is adding the volume reducers which is a piece of piss to do

[2013megaAM]

I got mine from TF, have had to do very little in the way of fiddling. main added bit is adding the volume reducers which is a piece of piss to do

Thank you .im a week away from placeing my order with TF I am tech minded but don't like to fiddle kind of set and ride me ) Did you get the volume spacers in the box ? I've seen the vid how to and agreed looks easy to do that ) one more thing how is the climb switch as in how firm is it when fully on ? I have the RS monarch RT3 on my TR and I use pedal mode a lot so if it's close to that then brill . ) thanks for any info

[JoFa73]

Thank you .im a week away from placeing my order with TF I am tech minded but don't like to fiddle kind of set and ride me ) Did you get the volume spacers in the box ? I've seen the vid how to and agreed looks easy to do that ) one more thing how is the climb switch as in how firm is it when fully on ? I have the RS monarch RT3 on my TR and I use pedal mode a lot so if it's close to that then brill . ) thanks for any info

Bought mine from TF tuned also, only thing they got close in the setup was air pressure.

Check canecreeks website and hope they have a basetune for your frame.

[POAH]

Thank you .im a week away from placeing my order with TF I am tech minded but don't like to fiddle kind of set and ride me ) Did you get the volume spacers in the box ? I've seen the vid how to and agreed looks easy to do that ) one more thing how is the climb switch as in how firm is it when fully on ? I have the RS monarch RT3 on my TR and I use pedal mode a lot so if it's close to that then brill . ) thanks for any info

yeah the volume reducers come in the box. climb switch is brilliant - it isn't as firm as the monarch which means it still reacts to bumps which is what you want. I had a monarch plus on my bike before and it is streets ahead of it. if you want a stiff lockout then the inline is not for you.

[2013megaAM]

yeah the volume reducers come in the box. climb switch is brilliant - it isn't as firm as the monarch which means it still reacts to bumps which is what you want. I had a monarch plus on my bike before and it is streets ahead of it. if you want a stiff lockout then the inline is not for you.

perfect ) I find the pedal mode on my monarch good but to firm so it gets skippy on climbs/routes and so on . Sounds like the climb switch and how it works is more what I'm after ) I've used TF before and they allways tuned my shock well for me . I have waited a while longer to get this shock as I wanted more real rider would imput so thanks .

[SingleTrackHound]

Anyone know if you can use Fox 1/2"
Polymer or Rock Shox mounting hardware on DB Inline?

[POAH]

it is the same size but mine came with hard ware for my bike

[2013megaAM]

One thing TF said was me at 11 half stone with gear I just fit into the DBinlins bracket ? I didn't ask why as I all read asked lots and lots and as nice as the guy was he frazzled my head with all the tech talk ) so are these inlines no good if you was 12 stone surly not just a shock for skinny teenagers

[POAH]

I'm running mine at 180 psi without any issue and mine is a high leverage bike (2.8) I'm 80kg kitted up

[2013megaAM]

I'm running mine at 180 psi without any issue and mine is a high leverage bike (2.8) I'm 80kg kitted up

sorry I got that bloody wrong Just phoned TF again about this he ment I just fall into the air bracket not weight . I run 170psi in my monarch so from what the guy said if I had to run lower than 170psi with the inline it wouldn't work right . That's it no more reading going to get the shock next week and ride it in and take it step by step .thanks for all the info much appreciated

[POAH]

the issue they suggested was the HCR not being able to cope with higher airpressures not that low air pressure would be an i.ssue

[cmeride]

I feel your pain, i just got mine for my 2014 GT Sensor and it wont fit either. Air can is too big and the bottom portion is too. Dam !

hi guys

just got the inline yesterday.
bought it for my MONDRAKER FOXY 2013. size M
and guess what?.....
it cant be installed into this frame!
F#U$C^K$!!
I want to brake the walls right now!!!!!!

[2013megaAM]

the issue they suggested was the HCR not being able to cope with higher airpressures not that low air pressure would be an i.ssue

arrrr they did say the inline does have teething problems but didn't say what . So I'm assuming from other comments I've read on this post the HSRebound can not keep up if your running 200psi . Don't think that's a issue as I'll be running under 180psi

[Stuart B]

I am running mine at 180psi and have only had to add about half a turn HSR, so there is still 1.5 turns of the 4 total end to end left.

[JoFa73]

I run 210 psi no problem, i call ******** on the claims of hsr not cooping with pressure above 200 psi. There are several others running higher pressure and not having any problem.

[pablobell]

Im running 220psi and a large volume spacer and its working great, much better than the Fox Evo it replaced. I haven't felt the need to increase the HSR damping from base tune yet.

[zky]

Dear All !

Dose anybody try to fit subj. into Trance X 2011 frame (26" Wheels)?

Tried to find any picture or info - no info at all. Please help

[challybert]

I'm 190lbs kitted up. I'm running 185psi to get roughly 26-28% sag (13-14mm) on my SC 5010. HSR 1.5 turns from full open (aka from turned to a stop in counter-clockwise direction). Performs great.

[2013megaAM]

My inline is on order will be here next week ) just wondered how you agressive riders are getting on takeing big hits with the inline ? It's the biggest reason I'm getting this inline is the monarch rt3 on my TR bottoms out easy ..it does ramp up well but blows it's travel fast . Really looking forward to the inline and hopeing it will give my bike the boost it needs )

[smithrider]

Is the 50hr air sleeve service something the consumer can easily do on this new inline or is it something Cane Creek encourages you to send the shock in for?

It's easy on the Fox/RS products, but have heard the CC is a pain with inner/outer cans? I am considering this shock but not if I have to send it off mid-summer to get the air sleeve serviced.

[pablobell]

My impression is that it likes to use most, if not all of its travel no matter what spacers/settings you use. But conversely it has never bottomed harshly for me, even with no spacers.

[rideitall]

I'm 190lbs kitted up. I'm running 185psi to get roughly 26-28% sag (13-14mm) on my SC 5010. HSR 1.5 turns from full open (aka from turned to a stop in counter-clockwise direction). Performs great.

Interesting numbers. I am 190lb + gear, so likely around 200 with gear. I run almost 210 psi on a 7.875 x 2.0 Inline on a Trance SX, yielding 15-17mm sag or around 30%. I sometimes turn the CS a little but pretty much open. I have yet to feel a bottom out but have come within the last 7-8mm on the shock. I might slightly decrease the LSR to get it a little more pop when pumping through sections or a jump lip.

Other than that this shock works extremely well on the trailbike, especially when being pushed.

[teK--]

Interesting numbers. I am 190lb + gear, so likely around 200 with gear. I run almost 210 psi on a 7.875 x 2.0 Inline on a Trance SX, yielding 15-17mm sag or around 30%. I sometimes turn the CS a little but pretty much open. I have yet to feel a bottom out but have come within the last 7-8mm on the shock. I might slightly decrease the LSR to get it a little more pop when pumping through sections or a jump lip.

Other than that this shock works extremely well on the trailbike, especially when being pushed.

You'll find when only 7mm stanchion is showing it is actually bottomed out. Let all the air out and sit on the bike to see what what I mean

[rondre3000]

Anyone else seeing a "clunking" feel when transitioning from negative to positive spring? It was very light at first but got progressively worse, to the point I could feel it thru the bike chasis during rides.

I contacted Cane Creek and they were VERY good about taking care of me. They've shipped out a new one to keep me riding and issued a UPS call tag for me to send my current one back. Talk about customer service!!!



-R.

[teK--]

I can feel a light notch when pushing the bike downwards by hand (stationary), but per CC's explanation of the neg/pos spring it's normal and not noticeable when riding. I've probably only put about 100kms on the new shock so if this changes I will report back.

[challybert]

Interesting numbers. I am 190lb + gear, so likely around 200 with gear. I run almost 210 psi on a 7.875 x 2.0 Inline on a Trance SX, yielding 15-17mm sag or around 30%. I sometimes turn the CS a little but pretty much open. I have yet to feel a bottom out but have come within the last 7-8mm on the shock. I might slightly decrease the LSR to get it a little more pop when pumping through sections or a jump lip.

Other than that this shock works extremely well on the trailbike, especially when being pushed.

I may be a little lighter in psi, relative to riding weight, than you because I have one large blue spacer installed.

[manitou2200]

My inline is on order will be here next week ) just wondered how you agressive riders are getting on takeing big hits with the inline ? It's the biggest reason I'm getting this inline is the monarch rt3 on my TR bottoms out easy ..it does ramp up well but blows it's travel fast . Really looking forward to the inline and hopeing it will give my bike the boost it needs )

This makes no sense. How does it ramp up well and also use all it's travel fast?

The Inline works as well as your tuning of it on your bike. If you set it up right it does what you need it to do.

[JoFa73]

You'll find when only 7mm stanchion is showing it is actually bottomed out. Let all the air out and sit on the bike to see what what I mean

I have had mine only a couple of mm showing so I don't thinks that true unless it's different between sizes.

[2013megaAM]

This makes no sense. How does it ramp up well and also use all it's travel fast?

The Inline works as well as your tuning of it on your bike. If you set it up right it does what you need it to do.

mainly I find it's only the last 10mm of travel that ramps up well the rest of the travel feels like it needs more harder compression it's just way to easy to push through the travel until it gets to the last 10mm . Hopeing the inline with all it's adjustment will give me control over this . Make sense now ?

[2013megaAM]

I have had mine only a couple of mm showing so I don't thinks that true unless it's different between sizes.

I ALLSO have a few mm unused travel on my monarch think that's normal . 7 mm seems a lot to not be used ?

[teK--]

I have had mine only a couple of mm showing so I don't thinks that true unless it's different between sizes.

mine is 7.875 x 2.0 same as yours. Let all the air out and bottom out the shock to see.

[manitou2200]

mainly I find it's only the last 10mm of travel that ramps up well the rest of the travel feels like it needs more harder compression it's just way to easy to push through the travel until it gets to the last 10mm . Hopeing the inline with all it's adjustment will give me control over this . Make sense now ?

I think I understand your situation but that's not what I'd call good ramp up in the travel. Proper ramp up would be a progressive build up of resistance all the way out to the end of the travel with no hard bottoming out.

With the inline if you use the right amount of air can volume spacers for the travel and leverage rate of your suspension then you'll have good ramp up without hard bottoming out. Then tune your suspension using the least amount of LSC for good bump compliance and pedaling response balanced with enough LSR to keep it up high. Use enough HSC (but not too much) to control the suspension depending on your riding style and terrain balanced by enough HSR to keep it active with enough pop and preventing the suspension from packing up on successive hits, then I'd say you'll be happy with it.

You'll have all the control you need with the Inline. The problem some make is not using any air can volume spacers then they try to control the ramp up with HSC. That's the wrong way to go about it because you waste or sacrifice the high speed shock movement to control the bottoming of the shock!

Does this make sense to you?

[2013megaAM]

I think I understand your situation but that's not what I'd call good ramp up in the travel. Proper ramp up would be a progressive build up of resistance all the way out to the end of the travel with no hard bottoming out.

With the inline if you use the right amount of air can volume spacers for the travel and leverage rate of your suspension then you'll have good ramp up without hard bottoming out. Then tune your suspension using the least amount of LSC for good bump compliance and pedaling response balanced with enough LSR to keep it up high. Use enough HSC (but not too much) to control the suspension depending on your riding style and terrain balanced by enough HSR to keep it active with enough pop and preventing the suspension from packing up on successive hits, then I'd say you'll be happy with it.

You'll have all the control you need with the Inline. The problem some make is not using any air can volume spacers then they try to control the ramp up with HSC. That's the wrong way to go about it because you waste or sacrifice the high speed shock movement to control the bottoming of the shock!

Does this make sense to you?

yes that makes perfect sense ..sorry I did not put it in the best words to start with I'm not that techy but learning slowly . Yes my plan is to get the shock next week from TF keep the settings as they tune it make sure I've got proper sag and if I bottom then add spacers to control that rather than mess with the knobs but maybe the odd turn . One step at a time for me I think don't want to over confuses myself . Is it somthing like 20hrs bed in time on these ?

[manitou2200]

Nope not even close to that much time. I started with a good base tune for the Intense Spider Comp created by Cane Creek to use on my Spider 29 AL and revised it from there on my own trails shock have all the features needed for tuning. It took me about 2-3 hours to find the best settings on my bike.

[2013megaAM]

Nope not even close to that much time. I started with a good base tune for the Intense Spider Comp created by Cane Creek to use on my Spider 29 AL and revised it from there on my own trails shock have all the features needed for tuning. It took me about 2-3 hours to find the best settings on my bike.

sounds good . Is it me or are new buyers holding back to buy this shock ? I know I did as I could have had it a few weeks ago but chose to wait for more real reviews like the info on here . Nothing on pinkbike just the review from them I was expecting to see lots on PB

[rideitall]

The inline is working quite well for most I expect, thus not too much for response. When things don't go well is when you typically hear the how a component works.

Question on the spacers, should some have come with the shock?

[Stuart B]

The inline is working quite well for most I expect, thus not too much for response. When things don't go well is when you typically hear the how a component works.

Question on the spacers, should some have come with the shock?

Mine didn't come with any

[challybert]

The inline is working quite well for most I expect, thus not too much for response. When things don't go well is when you typically hear the how a component works.

Question on the spacers, should some have come with the shock?

Mine came with one large blue spacer. Purchase in mid-August.

[manitou2200]

sounds good . Is it me or are new buyers holding back to buy this shock ? I know I did as I could have had it a few weeks ago but chose to wait for more real reviews like the info on here . Nothing on pinkbike just the review from them I was expecting to see lots on PB

The inline is working quite well for most I expect, thus not too much for response. When things don't go well is when you typically hear the how a component works.

Question on the spacers, should some have come with the shock?

Mine didn't come with any

I work directly with Cane Creek on stuff as I'm an industry professional. I do know they are making the Inline as fast as they are able and so they are getting them out there and from what I know they are selling quite well!

When tuning a bike with these or any DB shock it's best to start with a base tune for your given model or something close based on suspension type, travel length, leverage ratio and work from there to set it up for your needs and riding style. I've read some posts on tunes and scratch my head how they could have set up the inline so far from what should have been done. I think some are resistant to use the AV spacers because they think they'll lose the linear feel of the shock. In most cases they are dead wrong in not using the spacers. Bikes on the longer travel side like 160 mm will need less spacer but depending on the suspension most likely still need some to control bottom out.

Setup should be; install spacers based on travel length, leverage ratio, sus type and recommended spacers by CC, set sag, start with a neutral base tune or CC suggested base tune, find a trail to repeat with all the features you need to dial it in. Dial in LSC and LSR, then do the same with HSC and HSR.

When I hear that some are receiving their Inline's with no spacers and no mounting hardware that concerns me. They are priced to come with hardware for your spec bike and they also include one full large spacer. If I received an Inline without these I would question the dealer and call Cane Creek and talk with the guys in CS.

[Rootsboy]

I went ahead a got the inline, rather then send my fox of to be TFT Tuned. I have only been using a full suspension bike since February this year, but I could work out in that time whatever I did the fox was not felling on par with the pike on the front end. Some new biking buddy's had already added some inlines to their Bronson's and kind of talked me into getting one, above getting the fox tuned.
So I am lucky enough to have had about 4 rides on it since last week, and I must say I am glad I made the decision.
It came set-up by TFT Tuned based on what I told them over the phone. I went out right away with this tune. But added a large spacer as well to see how it felt.
Well just out the box it felt so much better then the fox. I really noticed with the climbing how the back wheel seemed to push down and track better.
Now as I said I am no expert in suspension, and my experience had only been this past year, but it was already happy at this point.
So I decided to take the large spacer out and have a little play with the setting on some known areas, mainly rock gardens and a few drops to flat to test the bottom out.
I realised that the tune that had done was by no means perfect. And I needed to add more HSC and less HSR this started to feel much better. So I kind of have left it for a few rides and I intend to slowly make some other changes as and when I feel the need. It's been interesting reading forums on the subject and looking at others tunes depending on their preference. I think just starting with some base tunes most people will be happy to get out riding. But it's so easy to tune and you can really feel the difference.
My weight is about 68.5kg(150.50lb) kitted up, I ride a Santa Cruz 5010.
The TFT Tune was:
140psi
I get about 14mm sag with this which is about right.
HSC 0.5
LSC 3
HSR 3.45
LSR 17

My current tune is:
HSC 1.15
LSC 5
HSR 2.30
LSR 15

It feels like it matches the 140 pike I have up front now, I guess I will start playing again with the spacers again and play with the HSC a bit just a quarter turn was making a difference between harsh drop out and reaching end of travel ok, also depending on some of my dodgy landings
for me this ability to tune for my needs, even with my inexperience has justified my buying this shock.
and all i want to do is go out for another ride now.

[manitou2200]

Your tune looks pretty good from my perspective but I would run a large spacer on the 5010 to control bottom out. Test this by doing some jumping or boosting some step downs. I think your LSR is a bit high on the dampening if these setting are from full open/ full fast. With my Spider 29 VPP, I'm at. (From full open/ fast):
HSC: 1.5
LSC: 6
HSR: 2
LSR: 7

[2013megaAM]

When I get my shock I will post the setup they do see what you think of that . It will be fitted to a 2013 nukeproof mega TR I have no idea of the ratio of this frame or what curve lev ratio means on a frame. All I do know is nukeproof designed the rear shock to ramp up with not a harsh bottom out .

[challybert]

...........
My weight is about 68.5kg(150.50lb) kitted up, I ride a Santa Cruz 5010.
The TFT Tune was:
140psi
I get about 14mm sag with this which is about right.
HSC 0.5
LSC 3
HSR 3.45
LSR 17

My current tune is:
HSC 1.15
LSC 5
HSR 2.30
LSR 15

It feels like it matches the 140 pike I have up front now, I guess I will start playing again with the spacers again and play with the HSC a bit just a quarter turn was making a difference between harsh drop out and reaching end of travel ok, also depending on some of my dodgy landings
for me this ability to tune for my needs, even with my inexperience has justified my buying this shock.
and all i want to do is go out for another ride now.

I have a 5010 with 140mm Pike as well. I'm 190lbs kitted up and run 13-14mm of sag (180-185psi) My tune:

With one large volume spacer installed.
HSC 1.5
LSC 6
HSR 2
LSR 8

[Rootsboy]

Your tune looks pretty good from my perspective but I would run a large spacer on the 5010 to control bottom out. Test this by doing some jumping or boosting some step downs. I think your LSR is a bit high on the dampening if these setting are from full open/ full fast. With my Spider 29 VPP, I'm at. (From full open/ fast):
HSC: 1.5
LSC: 6
HSR: 2
LSR: 7

yes i think that is what i will do on my next ride. i was playing between HSC 1.15 and 1.30 to stop the bottoming out, but i could also feel the difference in how plush it felt. and going down some gnarly steep rock gardens today i felt like it could be a little smoother on my knees.
is it just worth putting one large spacer in, tuning the HSC and leave it at that for the 5010, or will fine tuning maybe come into play, but cutting the spacer up? thinking about it, i am quite surprised that TFTtuned did not ship the shock with the spacer installed if it is recommend for the 5010 or at least mentioned in the paperwork.
if i put that in i am sure to back the the HSC to bring it back closer to their original tune.

[Stuart B]

When I hear that some are receiving their Inline's with no spacers and no mounting hardware that concerns me. They are priced to come with hardware for your spec bike and they also include one full large spacer. If I received an Inline without these I would question the dealer and call Cane Creek and talk with the guys in CS.

I got mine via my frame builder friend who designed and built my frame, he was talking to cane creek about base tune, maybe they didn't think it needed the reducers, it did come with hardware. I will ask my mate next time I see him.

Stu

[manitou2200]

It probably came with the large spacer.

[manitou2200]

When I get my shock I will post the setup they do see what you think of that . It will be fitted to a 2013 nukeproof mega TR I have no idea of the ratio of this frame or what curve lev ratio means on a frame. All I do know is nukeproof designed the rear shock to ramp up with not a harsh bottom out .

Is have to check that suspension on the Nuke Proof, I'm not familiar with it at all. It's funny it was a Grand Rapids MI company but on not sure if it's still based here in MI.

[2013megaAM]

Is have to check that suspension on the Nuke Proof, I'm not familiar with it at all. It's funny it was a Grand Rapids MI company but on not sure if it's still based here in MI.

thanks .i did email CC asked if they had a base tune and no

[manitou2200]

I'll check it out and see if I can help at all on the base tune.

The deal with air volume and suspension travel is shorter travel bikes will use the travel quicker with a high volume air canister. You can use more air pressure but the you sacrifice sag and bump compliance, hence traction. Rising rate, falling rate of leverage ratio, early and late in the travel all affect how the suspension uses travel and how to tune it.

[challybert]

Is have to check that suspension on the Nuke Proof, I'm not familiar with it at all. It's funny it was a Grand Rapids MI company but on not sure if it's still based here in MI.

Check out this link: go about 2/3 of the way down and there's a discussion (complex for my simple mind) on the 2013 AM and TR. The writeup at the bottom suggests fairly linear behavior of the TR. Keep in mind, this site is in spanish so you need google translate.

Linkage Design: Nuke Proof

[manitou2200]

Thanks challybert!

2013megaAM,s tune is pretty close to yours except his LSR is about double what is should be.

Thoughts?

Edit: Sorry I meant Rootsboy's tune of the 5010 not 2013megaAM!

[2013megaAM]

Thanks challybert!

2013megaAM,s tune is pretty close to yours except his LSR is about double what is should be.

Thoughts?

I've had the NP AM and now the TR both I've found need to run fast rebound as I've found the NP have a longer wheelbase and can be sluggish in slower techy trails so faster rebound helps for a more poppy feel . I found the NP TR to be a tricky rebound setup as you run it fast for slower stuff but can buck you if you go faster so can be hard to find a middle point

[2013megaAM]

I'll check it out and see if I can help at all on the base tune.

The deal with air volume and suspension travel is shorter travel bikes will use the travel quicker with a high volume air canister. You can use more air pressure but the you sacrifice sag and bump compliance, hence traction. Rising rate, falling rate of leverage ratio, early and late in the travel all affect how the suspension uses travel and how to tune it.

Thats spot on I'm no tech wiz but I've found the more softer you set the TR up the more it blows it's travel pop more air in then you suffer on small bumbs . Few more days and I'll have the inline so let's see . I'll ride it lots see how I get on with the TF tune and report back . Thanks

[2013megaAM]

All I need to know for now is rebound adjustment TF will tune it for me but I'll most likely adjust this . So what rebound is for jumps and poppy ness ? HSR ? And LSR is for landings correct ?

[Rootsboy]

have a quick look at the manuals and tuning field guides on the cane creek website, page 36 i think shows this:


https://www.canecreek.com/tech-cente...ension/manuals

[2013megaAM]

have a quick look at the manuals and tuning field guides on the cane creek website, page 36 i think shows this:


https://www.canecreek.com/tech-cente...ension/manuals

brill that's so simple to understand . I checked the CC site before don't know how I missed this .thanks

[Rootsboy]

I think it's a case of stick it on your bike. Go riding with the little note book that comes with the shock. Everything you need to understand for now is in there. Then start making some adjustments to the HSC first just to get the bottom out thing sorted. The work on the HSR. Well that's what I did. And still learning! Write everything you do and feel down, and just change one thing at a time and get used to it. It's a pleasure riding as it was still better then the fox out the box with the tune. Then it can only get better

[challybert]

I think it's a case of stick it on your bike. Go riding with the little note book that comes with the shock. Everything you need to understand for now is in there. Then start making some adjustments to the HSC first just to get the bottom out thing sorted. The work on the HSR. Well that's what I did. And still learning! Write everything you do and feel down, and just change one thing at a time and get used to it. It's a pleasure riding as it was still better then the fox out the box with the tune. Then it can only get better

+1 Agree. That's what I did. I rode the default tune for probably two weeks just to get a feel for things. I blindly made adjustments over another month or so until it felt just right. By blindly I mean I didn't go bat **** crazy counting clicks or turns, I just made adjustments. Once it was where I wanted it, I went back and "counted" back full counterclockwise, noted my "counts", turned them all back to where they were, and done.

[2013megaAM]

Right guys just got my inline today for my nukeproof TR just setting up SAG ...CC don't have a base tune for this but it says 15mm SAG ? That's 30% SAG does anyone think that's abit to much SAG for a short 130mm travel frame ? I was running 20% SAG on my monarch . If 30% sag it how much SAG I should have then I'll run it with that . Cheers

[teK--]

Right guys just got my inline today for my nukeproof TR just setting up SAG ...CC don't have a base tune for this but it says 15mm SAG ? That's 30% SAG does anyone think that's abit to much SAG for a short 130mm travel frame ? I was running 20% SAG on my monarch . If 30% sag it how much SAG I should have then I'll run it with that . Cheers

Good question I thought the same with my Trance (140mm travel). I was running 20% sag with the Fox RP23 but with the Inline, CC recommend 28%. Well I am doing just that but wanted more midstroke and bottom out support so they suggested installing the large volume spacer. THis is a better outcome than simply increasing compression damping as it should be the airspring supporting the bike, not the damper.

With the large spacer and 28% sag it's awesome. You don't realise how much sag helps traction until you try it.

[2013megaAM]

Good question I thought the same with my Trance (140mm travel). I was running 20% sag with the Fox RP23 but with the Inline, CC recommend 28%. Well I am doing just that but wanted more midstroke and bottom out support so they suggested installing the large volume spacer. THis is a better outcome than simply increasing compression damping as it should be the airspring supporting the bike, not the damper.

With the large spacer and 28% sag it's awesome. You don't realise how much sag helps traction until you try it.

thanks this makes perfect sence . I was running 20% sag on the monarch but that was not my choice as it needed 20% to stop it bottoming out to easy . So time to change my way of thinking on this as CC gives the controll over bottoming and midstroke while keeping the same sag . Good stuff

[manitou2200]

Good question I thought the same with my Trance (140mm travel). I was running 20% sag with the Fox RP23 but with the Inline, CC recommend 28%. Well I am doing just that but wanted more midstroke and bottom out support so they suggested installing the large volume spacer. THis is a better outcome than simply increasing compression damping as it should be the airspring supporting the bike, not the damper.

With the large spacer and 28% sag it's awesome. You don't realise how much sag helps traction until you try it.

thanks this makes perfect sence . I was running 20% sag on the monarch but that was not my choice as it needed 20% to stop it bottoming out to easy . So time to change my way of thinking on this as CC gives the controll over bottoming and midstroke while keeping the same sag . Good stuff

This is exactly what I've been saying from the get go! I've been tuning the HV air springs with volume spacers on all my shocks but the CC DB Inline makes it very easy to tune the air spring. I run 30% sag in a 120 mil travel Spider and it feels plush and near bottomless!

When tuning for your NP use only what you absolutely need for compression dampening keeping it as minimal as possible. The same for the rebound, using just enough LSR will help with traction especially climbing. Use enough HSR do you don't get bucked off your bike but keeping it to a minimum will help the bike feel lively with lots of pop and wanting to boost off every trail feature you cone across! When tuning the high speed aspect it will help if you can ride a trail with some nice step downs do you can push the bike a bit and use all the travel.

Good tuning!

[2013megaAM]

Here is the tune TF Have set this up 160psi 30% sag
HSR 3/4 turns from maximum
LSR 12 clicks out from maximum
HSC 1.5 turns in from minimum
LSC 8 clicks out from minimum
What do you think ?? I need to adjust rebound its way to slow for my likeing so HSR IS on full open and LSR IS fully open now and I'll adjust those to my need out on the trails )

[teK--]

I think what you've posted is wildly confusing

Forget the in/out and maximum/minimum just say how many turns or clicks from fully anti clockwise (minimum damping).

[2013megaAM]

That's how it was typed up on my invoice from TF Im new to these so just thought its best to put what I read off the invoice

[manitou2200]

Here is the tune TF Have set this up 160psi 30% sag
HSR 3/4 turns from maximum
LSR 12 clicks out from maximum
HSC 1.5 turns in from minimum
LSC 8 clicks out from minimum
What do you think ?? I need to adjust rebound its way to slow for my likeing so HSR IS on full open and LSR IS fully open now and I'll adjust those to my need out on the trails )

I think what you've posted is wildly confusing

Forget the in/out and maximum/minimum just say how many turns or clicks from fully anti clockwise (minimum damping).

Agreed! Reference from full open / fast (all the way counter clockwise).

If I read your post correctly they have the HSR almost fully slow which is crazy. I don't think they know much about tuning suspension if that's the case!

[2013megaAM]

Agreed! Reference from full open / fast (all the way counter clockwise).

If I read your post correctly they have the HSR almost fully slow which is crazy. I don't think they know much about tuning suspension if that's the case!

hence why I've now got both rebounds fully open . I've had a lot of shocks tuned via TF they ALLWAYS set your rebound to very very slow I think this is a safty thing as it says on the invoice to adjust this to your own pref . Just covers them so you don't go out over the bars first ride

[manitou2200]

You'll need a little of both rebound dampening but I wouldn't use them to tune a kazoo! LOL

[2013megaAM]

You'll need a little of both rebound dampening but I wouldn't use them to tune a kazoo! LOL

LOL what do you think of the HSC-LSC setup ? I want it to pedal well . I'll adjust the rebound on my ride got trails I've been rideing for over 20years so rebound wize I know what I'm after

[manitou2200]

LOL what do you think of the HSC-LSC setup ? I want it to pedal well . I'll adjust the rebound on my ride got trails I've been rideing for over 20years so rebound wize I know what I'm after

They're probably a good place to start from and fairly neutral. If you go to the Cane Creek Inline site to find a base tune they'll recommend HSC 2, LSC 7, HSR 2, LSR 10 if they haven't developed a tune for your specific bike.

They only developed tunes for the bikes that the manufacturers bring to them, when they're going to offer the Inline as an OEM option.

[manitou2200]

I just looked at the CC site and they have a base tune for the 2014 Mega TR.
15 mm sag, no air spacers (surprising, you may want to add some if you bottom easily)
HSC 1.5
LSC 5
HSR 2.5
LSR 3

Is start there and bracket to fine tune.

[2013megaAM]

Brill thanks for that . Been out on a 15 mile tester and WOW WOWW it's brill just what the TR needed still got some setting to play with but not fare off those . I am bottoming but it's not harsh should I add half of the blue spacer ? Thanks you've been a great help and I'm getting to grips with it now only done one ride ) not as scary as first thought )

[2013megaAM]

I just looked at the CC site and they have a base tune for the 2014 Mega TR.
15 mm sag, no air spacers (surprising, you may want to add some if you bottom easily)
HSC 1.5
LSC 5
HSR 2.5
LSR 3

Is start there and bracket to fine tune.

Brill thanks for that . Been out on a 15 mile tester and WOW WOWW it's brill just what the TR needed still got some setting to play with but not fare off those . I am bottoming but it's not harsh should I add half of the blue spacer ? Thanks you've been a great help and I'm getting to grips with it now only done one ride ) not as scary as first thought )

[manitou2200]

Your bike has the same leverage rate as the Intense Spider Comp 2.6:1, it and my Spider 29 use the whole spacer. I'd put the whole spacer in there and reset sag at 30%.

Ride it like that, it should be progressive but allow you to use all the travel without harsh bottoming.

[Stuart B]

Here is the tune TF Have set this up 160psi 30% sag
HSR 3/4 turns from maximum
LSR 12 clicks out from maximum
HSC 1.5 turns in from minimum
LSC 8 clicks out from minimum
What do you think ?? I need to adjust rebound its way to slow for my likeing so HSR IS on full open and LSR IS fully open now and I'll adjust those to my need out on the trails )

Did you do your ride fully open on both rebounds? I'd be amazed if that was the best setup. I have heard TF like slow HSR. On my setup I have added half a turn or so from the default 2, and may slow it down a touch more. On default 2 HSR I found the rear bucking up under me too much off drops that have a compression prior to the lip (not very big ones either). I know its a different bike to yours, but with HSR set to min on the inline is incredibly fast...your back wheel wheel be clattering into every edge on stutter bumps, and I imagine won't be fun off drops or jumps.

My bike actually felt plusher through chatter after slowing HSR as the wheel wasn't dropping into every divot quite so hard.

This is from someone who originally though having the rebound fast was best.

[2013megaAM]

Did you do your ride fully open on both rebounds? I'd be amazed if that was the best setup. I have heard TF like slow HSR. On my setup I have added half a turn or so from the default 2, and may slow it down a touch more. On default 2 HSR I found the rear bucking up under me too much off drops that have a compression prior to the lip (not very big ones either). I know its a different bike to yours, but with HSR set to min on the inline is incredibly fast...your back wheel wheel be clattering into every edge on stutter bumps, and I imagine won't be fun off drops or jumps.

My bike actually felt plusher through chatter after slowing HSR as the wheel wasn't dropping into every divot quite so hard.

This is from someone who originally though having the rebound fast was best.

Yes I did the full ride with rebound fully open and I did drops and a double jump with a steepish kicker and I found it bang on . Tho please note this is my local trail and it's not the fastest so often fun fast rebound to hop things at slower speeds and the nukeproof has a long wheelbase so it can be sluggish when your not going Mac 10 ) will be getting a proper full on test at the weekend on a much faster trail and I'm sure I'll have to add rebound so you are correct .so for now fully open rebound is for my local trail . I've allways found that I'm a heavey preloader on front and rear to get more boost and I find the more you preload the more oil gets sucked up in the shock and it's not as fast as you think it would be .thats just me tho

[2013megaAM]

Your bike has the same leverage rate as the Intense Spider Comp 2.6:1, it and my Spider 29 use the whole spacer. I'd put the whole spacer in there and reset sag at 30%.

Ride it like that, it should be progressive but allow you to use all the travel without harsh bottoming.

cheers poped the spacer in ) How easy is that it's great . When I was out I added a lot of LSC 15 just to try and understand what each adjustment does and LSC at 15 was pretty Damm good even tho it's much higher than the chart you found its great for pedaling my local trail . Will have to back that right off for the proper trails so it will be plusher and track better )

[manitou2200]

cheers poped the spacer in ) How easy is that it's great . When I was out I added a lot of LSC 15 just to try and understand what each adjustment does and LSC at 15 was pretty Damm good even tho it's much higher than the chart you found its great for pedaling my local trail . Will have to back that right off for the proper trails so it will be plusher and track better )

I'd use the tune I found for your bike as a starting point and go from there.

I use just enough LSC for good seated pedaling while climbing rough terrain but not any more than I need. Remember the climb switch comes in handy when needed.

On the HSC I use enough to fine tune bottoming on booters and g-out's but again not any more than I need.

Your HSR should probably be 2 or middle of the range. If you run much more the bike looses the pop that I like. I want the bike to push back a little, it makes things way more fun and you stay up a little higher in the travel on rough terrain. It's more fun and fast to ride a bike that likes to boost off stuff, it comes in handy clearing rough terrain and doubles!

LSR is just a matter of control small bump compliance and keeping the traction solid for climbing.

[Jayem]

On the HSC I use enough to fine tune bottoming on booters and g-out's but again not any more than I need.

That would be LSC that controls the bike with slow impacts, like booters and g-outs.

[manitou2200]

That would be LSC that controls the bike with slow impacts, like booters and g-outs.

Nope, they're both high speed movements HSC affects these situations.

[2013megaAM]

I'd use the tune I found for your bike as a starting point and go from there.

I use just enough LSC for good seated pedaling while climbing rough terrain but not any more than I need. Remember the climb switch comes in handy when needed.

On the HSC I use enough to fine tune bottoming on booters and g-out's but again not any more than I need.

Your HSR should probably be 2 or middle of the range. If you run much more the bike looses the pop that I like. I want the bike to push back a little, it makes things way more fun and you stay up a little higher in the travel on rough terrain. It's more fun and fast to ride a bike that likes to boost off stuff, it comes in handy clearing rough terrain and doubles!

LSR is just a matter of control small bump compliance and keeping the traction solid for climbing.

yes I've been out again today here's the setup now
160psi 30% sag
HSC 1half
LSC 10
HSR 0
LSR 0
Yep still running NO rebound and I'm finding its still not that fast or poppy . On my invoice from TF it says they did a internal set based on my rideing and frame . Could they have over damped the rebound . My rebound should be really fast and buck me but it's not I've hit drops and sharp kickers and it don't buck atall . I'm assuming TF have set the rebound inside . With the monarch I had if you ran that with no rebound you would go over the bars jumping the jumps I've been doing .