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  1. #1
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    Monarch RT: Any way to minimize LSC/Floodgate on H1 tune?

    So I just came into possesion (long story!) of a 2012 Monarch RT with a factory tune of M/H1; I want to use it on a DW link Turner Flux, that would probably be better served with a L compression tune. Obviously the simplest solution would be to just get a shock with the correct tune, but that's not an option at this point (racing this weekend). So I have a couple questions about trying to make this shock work:

    -I take it the 10 point compression dial is still confined to the range of the pre-set tune (i.e. It still won't feel anything like a L tune just by dialing the compression all the way out), right- otherwise why would they sell so many different tunes? Anyone care to hazard a guess as to just how "off" it will still feel?

    -My understanding of the Monarch RT "AM" version that Push sold is that it had the Floodgate removed. Can this be done by a home mechanic w/o extra parts, and if so will it get me the minimal low speed compression I'm after?

    Thanks!
    Last edited by miles e; 09-04-2012 at 09:23 PM.
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  2. #2
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    The LSC/platform is the same amongst the Monarch tunes. The high speed stack is what's altered. Simply turning the blue threshold knob all the way negative should disable the platform. If you want to really disable it, then you can pull the shock apart and remove the poppet valve and spring that is compressed when you turn up the blue platform knob. I don't think that will yield you much of a difference, however.

    I'd say your best bet is to source some super light damper fluid and/or play with the shim stack while you're in there. The SRAM service manual covers everything you need to know, so you can read through that and see if you're up for it. You'll need the IFP port adapter so you can pressurize the IFP chamber. You'll also need some non-marring clamp blocks to unscrew the damper shaft. You should be able to re-use the bleed port sealing ball, but it might leak.

  3. #3
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    Thanks for the info, hadn't thought of switching to a lighter weight fluid. Didn't realize the LSC was the same for all tunes either; I can't stand a heavy "platform", especially on a DW bike where it is largely unnecessary, so at least I won't be fighting that.

    Wish I had time to ride it as is and see how it does before I change anything, but only have time for one ride between now and Sunday so ideally any changes are made before I take it on the "shake down" ride.
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  4. #4
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    Do you have any of the tools car_nut mentioned? Because if not, it still is a tight schedule till Saturday. IIRC basic tuning of the Monarch is done by altering the internal shim stacks, but are you really willing to do it? Cause on the other hand you can just try buy a whole piston assembly with a different tune, last time I saw they were going for around 40$ and the job is pretty simplified.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by BustedBearing View Post
    Do you have any of the tools car_nut mentioned? Because if not, it still is a tight schedule till Saturday. IIRC basic tuning of the Monarch is done by altering the internal shim stacks, but are you really willing to do it?
    Definitely not going to tear into the shim stacks before Saturday, and if you need the clamp blocks to change the oil then I may have to forego that too.

    Swapping the piston assembly is not a bad idea, but I doubt I can get one by tomorrow, and it might be just as economical to sell this shock (it's a new take off) and buy one with the correct tune...looking like I may have to just race the back up bike (hardtail ).
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  6. #6
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    Have you ridden it? I'd test ride it in the bike before I did anything with it. You may find the higher comp tune may work adequately for racing or your personal style of riding.

    You really need to test ride it and see what aspects of its performance are inadequate for "you" to formulate a proper plan for modifying it.

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