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  1. #126
    h3d
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    thanks for the confidence. :-).I can do some technical stuff, but I don't know the right words in English. For example: Canister is that the main chamber which you can screw off? First step in the video.

    As I watched the video, I think it's not al that bad inside. I have seen a few drops of oil coming from the IFP piston, but not the amount that goes in there. The damper is used only 200 km's, so there should be no problem on that front. So I think I will try it on a short trip next week.

  2. #127
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    Hy guys!

    Bringing this thread back to life….

    I have read the whole thread and I am pretty aware of what to do to play with the IFP pressure on the Monarch; and I already have the adaptor from RS to do it….

    My question is: Before i go ahead and try it, I just want to make sure that the procedure, and the expected results, will be the same for a RS Monarch RC3 Plus, because of it's piggy bag. I want to lower the IFP pressure a bit on my RC3, to improve the small bump sensitivity on my Mojo SL.

    Should I go ahead and just do what you guys have done on your Monarchs 3.3, 4.2, RT3…?

    Thank you very much.

    Regards,

    Ed.

  3. #128
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    Anyone? Any clue?

  4. #129
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    does anyone think/know if this can work on Monarch with the modifications explained in this thread (shorten threaded part, drill hole to 2mm):

    SKS Rockshox Sid Adaptor | Buy Online | ChainReactionCycles.com

    why? well nowhere in the uk seems to have stock of the SRAM part (or many other SRAM parts, what's going on?!). kind of a disaster as i need to change my damper and of course that means an oil and IFP refill.
    Last edited by Smiff; 06-12-2013 at 01:27 PM.

  5. #130
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    Anyone has tried adjusting the IFP pressure of the 2013 model?
    The standard pressure for the 2013 model is 350psi, is it "safe" to go down to 300psi?

  6. #131
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    I do know that Sram has changed the ifp depth and psi about three times over the past 4 years for the RT3. This would seem to indicate that some psi and depth variation is acceptable.
    I know this because I had a local tech service my shock, and when I received it back it was obviously not right to me. Twice. The third time I called Sram, gave them the serial no. and was given the correct depth and psi for my shock. At that time I was also informed of the 3 different factory settings over the past 4 years, hence the confusion for my tech.
    I think I surely posted those specific settings on an interweb tread somewhere...

  7. #132
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  8. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by dimitrin View Post
    I have read that, my question is will there be any adverse effect if I lower my 2013 Monarch RT3 IFP pressure to 300psi (eg. the gas and oil will mix).

    I had used the 2012 version perviously and I have positive result when I lowered it from 250psi to 200psi.

  9. #134
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    Make sure the can and ifp pressures do not cross each other. Either keep the ifp always below the can pressure (as in swinger 4 way air shock of the past) or higher, as in Fox. The Oring will keep switching sides in the seal head as the pressures cross. One does not want that.

    Coil shocks not an issue.
    lean forward

  10. #135
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    Another breath of life into this old one
    Help!!!!
    I read up on this and thought Id give it a go since my shock will not hold air.
    I released the air and nitrogen removed the schreader valves and the can will not move I broke the strap on the new wrench I had just bought.
    Then I thought I'd just try adding some lube and pump back up to see if it would hold air but when I screw the schrader valve in the IFP it will bottoms out so that the pin will not depress when you screw in the adapter to inflate
    What has gone wrong?

    I

  11. #136
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    When a shock has been used for some time, the oil will contain dissolved/emulsified gas. This is from slight seepage of IFP air and breakdown of the oil. Totally unavoidable.

    However, you don't realize that there is gas in your oil because the IFP pressure keeps it dissolved in the oil. When you release your IFP pressure, all that trapped gas can now expand and come out. This is exactly why a sealed container of Coke has no bubbles until you open it.

    In your case, all that erupting gas pushed your IFP all the way down to the tail of the shock. The reason you can't get the IFP schrader in now is because it's hitting the IFP (I did this once). You now have to disassemble the damper, pour out the old oil, reset the IFP height, and refill.

    Unfortunately, your post says you can't unscrew the air can. How did you "add lube?" You will need to remove the can to fully rebuild.

    For future reference, if the shock will not hold air in the air can, you should only service the air can seals. Do not ever release IFP pressure unless you are prepared to rebuild or do a bleed or you had recently rebuilt the shock already.

    Finally, my Monarch also would not hold air initially. The problem was traced to the seals between the air can and the extra volume sleeve. That may be your problem too so check them if after rebuild the leak persists. Good luck!
    "Adventure begins where good judgment ends."

  12. #137
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    I see
    Thanks for the advise
    I'll have another go at getting the can off otherwise I'll send it of to an expert
    I figured this would be worst case anyway so thought I'd give it a go 1st
    I guess would have been fine not for the air can removal issue

    Just managed to get the can undone had to put on 3 jaw chuck with a bolt through the eye- very tight
    Last edited by I Like Dirt; 09-05-2013 at 06:21 PM.

  13. #138
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    Old thread, but still very relevant and useful. RT3s still tuned stiff as he'll. My Titus Rockstar 29er came with one, and after a few months of riding, I have sag at about 40 just to get more travel.Still doesn't use it all up unless I really pound the bike! I'm going to try lowering ifp and hope it helps. As I said , this thread has been most helpful. Many thanks.

  14. #139
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    Posted on a similar thread, but no help. Just want to make sure I did this right. 1) Emptied main chamber (can). 2) Connected to ifp chamber and dropped it to 225 psi, did not completely empty it.3) Refilled main can to 100 psi ( not enough as it was hitting ) then to 170 psi ( 30 percent sag) Haven't rode it at this setting yet. Is this ok?

  15. #140
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    while you can run IFP pressures from 400 to 125 psi , ( it sounds like you did lower the pressure correctly ) and the different pressures will change feel somewhat , basically the nitro pressure is to hold the oil in a stable suspension state, in order to give the valving a consistent lever to deflect the valving while the shaft moves with a set amount of dampening depending on the valve stack design.

    if the shock is way to stiff , you would be better off changing the valve stack to lessen the compression dampening .

    The lighter IFP pressures do help ( I like to run 150 to 200 psi range ) but the biggest effect is in the valving ,if you really want your small bump compression to be plush you will alter your compression stack .

  16. #141
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    Hi Guys,

    Sorry for resurecting an old thread, but i really need your help, especially @TNC since we seem to have more or less the same bike. So the situation is like this:

    I own a Specialized Stumpjumper FSR '08, and recently decided to ditch the brain and get a new shock (the old one was working worse and worse and servicing it didn't help). So i bought a new Monarch RT3 (the black one, 2015), in the same size as the old AFR (184x44) and mounted it, all good. It works well but it not quite as plush as i was hoping (pumped at 170psi for my 75kg, sag 30%). What's more annoying is that it never seems to use more then 70% travel, even on fairly long trips on mountain terrain (small jumps included). With no air in it, i can compress it to 100% of stroke, so there is no issue with the shock.

    I read all the posts in this thread, especially the first one and they sounded like just the thing for me. So i bought a valve adapter for rockshox and started fiddling with the ifp pressure. My factory setting is 350psi. I lowered it as far as 250 (i fear getting lower then this) but really there is not much difference. Indeed the shock seems to be a little more plush, which is fine, but the amount of travel used is the same (haven't tested it on a long run yet, but based on before after testing, there's no change). I'll attach a picture to show this.

    Anyone has any ideeas on what else i can do? Do i need to get it serviced and tuned diferently? It is an MM tune, which according to my rear travel (120) and shock stroke (44) should be correct. Any help will be deeply appreciated.

    Thanks!


    Monarch & IFP pressure change...-imag0704.jpgMonarch & IFP pressure change...-imag0705.jpg

  17. #142
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    It needs a revalve. Definitely a L comp tune and maybe even a L reb.

    As you've found, lowering IFP has very little effect. It basically adds/subtracts from overall spring rate.

  18. #143
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    Ok, i suspected and feared this. I'll get it serviced and tuned low.

    Thanks!

  19. #144
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    Maybe, before revalving, I would buy large volume air sleeve. Then tune it with "tokens" (I use stripes of old inner tube) or something that takes space of positive air spring. Valving might not be enough to use full travel as there is not a that big difference between tunes.

  20. #145
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    That would make it more linear and therefore compensate the FSR progressive rate? Anyway, i don't think i can find a HV can for my size (184x44), so i don't think this works unfortunately.

  21. #146
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    A HV can could work, but overall you will be better off with a revalve. At your weight, both the reb and comp are overdamped. You actually have 3 options.
    1. Buy stock LL tune 50$, install yourself
    2. Pay lbs to do #1
    3. Custom tune from Avalanche/push/etc

    You will get the best performance from 3 at only 50-100$ more than #2. If you choose #1/2, call SRAM and make sure understand the difference between the multiple LL tunes.

  22. #147
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    Ok, i see. Since i live outside the US, the avalanche/push is not an option for me, although it would be nice. Guess i'll just have to sort it here with some lbs. Thanks!

  23. #148
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    Tf Tuned

  24. #149
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    So, i got it tuned at a local mechanic. Removed 2 shims from the shim stack to make it low tune, and changed to a lighter oil. The result is a nicer feel to the shock, more plush.

    However, there is little difference in terms of travel used. It seems more or less the same (after one ride).

    Monarch & IFP pressure change...-imag0812.jpg

    One thing i tried is to set sag differently, this time in the riding position, as opposed to standing position. The difference is quite big, for 30% sag, i need only 140psi in the riding position, compared to 170 with sag measured by standing in the saddle.

    Riding with 140psi seems ok, buy maybe too soft ... anyway, the travel used in this case is close to 80,85%, so better. I don't know what to think. I would buy the hv can if i could find one for my size, but they seem hard to find.

  25. #150
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    You definitely need to set sag when seated. Keep in mind that how much travel used is also a function of the type of trails you ride and what kind of features are on the trail. 85% usage isn't necessarily bad. Travel quality trumps quantity. The comp stack stiffness will also affect travel usage. You may need to further soften the stack. I don't know what the leverage curve looks like for that frame, but I still wouldn't jump to the conclusion that you need a high volume can.

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