Page 5 of 7 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 LastLast
Results 101 to 125 of 160
  1. #101
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    88
    For those that are interested, this the piston and shim assembly on the monarch (3.3 B-tune in this case):

    It's surprisingly similar to the Fox design in the previous picture, but with sims rather than the belleville washers on the high speed compression stack.

    I think I've got it all in the correct order (it all fell apart when I undid it obviously! ). Vertically arranged items are all the same.

    From left to right, there is slow speed compression, high speed compression, piston, high speed rebound, low speed rebound.
    The 'gate' lever adjusts the preload on the spring that closes the poppet valve in the center of the rod/nut that flows for low speed compression.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Monarch & IFP pressure change...-dsc01870.jpg  


  2. #102
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    49
    I have followed this topic for a while now, more precisely since I bought a new El Guapo a month ago which came with a Monarch RT3 216mmx63mm. The Monarch has felt harsh from day one and nothing at all like the 2 x RP23 I've had before in other bikes which were very plushy.
    So following the recommendations here I decided to buy the valve adapter and try different IFPs. I started with 240psi but settled with 205 in the IFP and 160 in the main chamber with 35% sag (I weight 210lb). Now it feels very plushy (which I like for the increased grip) but works well in bigger hits too.
    The only feature that is not working as I hoped is the Floodgate, the use of its lever makes almost no difference. Would anyone know how to adjust that? I would like to be able to either totally open or totally close it (or have it as rigid as possible) but the way it is working right now I feel almost no difference, it feels as it is open all the time.
    Would anyone have a suggestion on how to correct that?
    Really appreciate any help :-)

  3. #103
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    1,932
    I hope someone can enlighten us.

    My shock does the same thing - manitou s-type srl. It only has open and lockout. The lockout works like a super firm floodgate and will break on large hits. The lower the ifp pressure, the less force it takes to open the lockout. Unless someone knows how to adjust it, you will need to find a good medium between plushness and how the floodgate operates.
    Last edited by rlouder; 12-25-2011 at 10:29 AM.

  4. #104
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    97
    I have a Spearfish with a Monarch R, M (rebound) L (compression) tune. 3" travel, 1.5" stroke = 2.0 leverage ratio. I weigh 235 and run 240 psi in the main chamber to achieve around 20% sag. I assume the stock IFP pressure is 250psi.

    From Salsa's literature (and my own observation), the suspension curve is designed to be firm in the beginning of the stroke, plush in the middle and firm at the end of the stroke. When mashing up a hill or ledge, I can easily blow through the initial firmness and into the plush mid stroke. Once that happens, pedal strike are common (Spearfishes have low bottom brackets)

    If I run a higher psi in the main can to combat this, the small bump compliance is terrible and I don't achieve full travel. What is the best way to firm up the mid-stroke without affecting the beginning and end travel? From what I have been reading, it seems like I could increase IFP pressure to achieve this. If I were to take it a step further, could I lower the main can pressure to improve small bump compliance?

    Thanks to everyone who has contributed, I've already learned a lot more than when I started.

  5. #105
    "El Whatever"
    Reputation: Warp's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    18,743
    Quote Originally Posted by greenblur View Post
    I have a Spearfish with a Monarch R, M (rebound) L (compression) tune. 3" travel, 1.5" stroke = 2.0 leverage ratio. I weigh 235 and run 240 psi in the main chamber to achieve around 20% sag. I assume the stock IFP pressure is 250psi.

    From Salsa's literature (and my own observation), the suspension curve is designed to be firm in the beginning of the stroke, plush in the middle and firm at the end of the stroke. When mashing up a hill or ledge, I can easily blow through the initial firmness and into the plush mid stroke. Once that happens, pedal strike are common (Spearfishes have low bottom brackets)

    If I run a higher psi in the main can to combat this, the small bump compliance is terrible and I don't achieve full travel. What is the best way to firm up the mid-stroke without affecting the beginning and end travel? From what I have been reading, it seems like I could increase IFP pressure to achieve this. If I were to take it a step further, could I lower the main can pressure to improve small bump compliance?

    Thanks to everyone who has contributed, I've already learned a lot more than when I started.
    You don't lose a thing by trying, but my guess is that you could end up with a shock that is not plush and may not achieve full travel.

    I would try to reduce the air volume in the main air chamber instead, unless you have a standard air can already.
    Check my Site

  6. #106
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ktm520's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    1,275
    greenblur, I'm on a spearfish also, but only weigh 170. I've been playing with the IFP, but my conditions are the exact opposite. Like Warp suggested, the only way you will know is trying.

    I think you are asking too much from just air pressure changes. At your weight, you might need a revalve to get what you want. Don't get to hung up on hitting exactly 20% sag. The suspension curve you mentioned is only leverage ratio. That only one piece of the pie.

    I would trying lowering the IFP to around 210 and leaving the main where you have been running it, or a little higher. I'm running my IFP at 190. IFP pressure has a larger effect on small bump compliance than main pressure.

  7. #107
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Gobstopper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    86
    Anyone know where to get an IFP adapter? I've looked and the few places that list them online don't actually have them. Just got an RT3 and really need to add the high shim stack and tune IFP.

    Thanks!

  8. #108
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    1,460
    Your LBS should be able to order it from QBP. AEBike.com had them listed a while back, but I'm not seeing them there now.

  9. #109
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    164
    I bought a used Monarch and put it on my 2011 Specialized Camber 29er. It felt really sluggish. I lowered the IFP to 175 and main can to 120. It feels much better but not awesome. I'm wondering if I should send it to Push. I don't really want to spring for it but I do need to get the ride right. I had a Fox RP2 on it. With the Fox it felt pretty good the first part of the travel but ramped up and didn't get full travel. I am thinking about a high volume air can for the Fox. Just wondering which way to go. Don't want to sink a bunch of $$ into 2 shocks.

  10. #110
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    27
    Hi !
    I have some real urgent questions and would really appreciate some help.

    I have just bought a 2010 monarch 4.2 for my dad's santa cruz heckler (even if I use it much more often :P)... But the problem is I have around 20% sag and it bottoms out very easily... I could of course add some more air but then my sag wouldn't be correct and that is the last thing I want
    It is a tune D and the heckler is kind of in between D and E but more towards D according to the rock shox chart...

    I have also heard I could take some pressure from the IFP chamber (what is this ? ^^) to make it more progressive... (I know I would have to buy an adapter) Is this possible ??

    And I was just wondering if I could stick a kind of "rubber spacer" thingy, like in a boxxer wc (I think), to reduce the volume of the air chamber so that the shock ramps up quicker (therefore more progressive)... Is this possible ?

    I would basicly like to be able to run the correct sag (25% would be ideal) without excessive bottoming... I weigh 140 lbs (only 17 years old) and ride DH (I have a dh bike) but kind forget the heckler isn't really meant for rough stuff and catching big air This is why I would like the shock to be more progressive...

    I would be really grateful for any help !
    Thanks in advance !
    I have already learnt a lot from this thread, so thanks to everybody who has posted !
    Eddy

  11. #111
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    1,205
    I bought the IFP adapter recently, and have been monkeying with pressures. Can't really comment on findings regarding tuning yet, but I wanted to say something about the adapter itself. The o-ring on the shoulder of the adapter just north of the threads never wanted to seat properly as I was threading it into the IFP valves. I shredded it pretty quickly, and it no longer holds air. I poked a hole in a bike tube, pushed the threads of the adapter through up to the shoulder, and trimmed away the excess. Lubed it with slick honey, then threaded it into the valve. The edges of the valve recess trimmed the rubber so that it fits perfectly and holds air all the time without having to baby that ill-fitting o-ring anymore.

  12. #112
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    705
    The key to the O ring is to push the adapter into the hole before twisting. The o ring will slide into the shoulder of the hole smoothly and the threads will then engage. You also want to lube the ring with a bit of grease. I have killed one or two o rings until I found out this trick.

  13. #113
    A Baker St. Muse
    Reputation: michael573114's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    136
    I just got an RT3 and the red IFP adapter, but it doesn't seem to attach to the pump that RS included with the Monarch, it's very slightly too large. This surprises me quite a bit.

    I'm sure I can build some kind of crazy fitting... but shouldn't this fit?

  14. #114
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    176
    it should fit...... you may need to borrow another shock pump from your buddy and try.

    out of topic: I found the adaptor can also be threaded into vivid coil, just swap a 0.5mm bigger O-ring.

  15. #115
    A Baker St. Muse
    Reputation: michael573114's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    136
    Quote Originally Posted by drummercat View Post
    it should fit...... you may need to borrow another shock pump from your buddy and try..
    I actually have two Rock Shox pumps here, one from the brand-new RT3 and one from my Reba, and neither one fits the red Monarch IFP valve adapter. I'm planning to try a friend's pump, but it's very weird that a RS-made adapter doesn't fit a RS-made pump.

  16. #116
    i32
    i32 is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    13
    Is there someone, who changed the piston for lower tune?
    Is the lower tune affect platform resistance?
    I need good climbing ability and lockout feel, but small bumps sensivity is not ok, compare to Fox RP2. I'm depressure IFP to 220 psi, it was more better than 250, but not close to Fox sensivity. Now it's time to try piston changing, i think. Is this a way and what about platform?

  17. #117
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    1

    IFP on RT3

    I see some people have problems with filling the IFP on RT3 monarch.

    I also had this problem, as i just tried to thread the adapter into the main schrader valve!

    The IFP chamber is not there however, please see the enclosed picture.

    Hope this helps somebody, as it atleast took me a while to figure out!

    My monarch is much better at 225 on my nukeproof mega.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Monarch & IFP pressure change...-ifp.png  


  18. #118
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    176
    I did it by removing 1 of the shim in the compression shim stack.

    There is a thread regarding the shim stack of RT3 somewhere in the suspension forum, check it out.

    Quote Originally Posted by i32 View Post
    Is there someone, who changed the piston for lower tune?
    Is the lower tune affect platform resistance?
    I need good climbing ability and lockout feel, but small bumps sensivity is not ok, compare to Fox RP2. I'm depressure IFP to 220 psi, it was more better than 250, but not close to Fox sensivity. Now it's time to try piston changing, i think. Is this a way and what about platform?

  19. #119
    A Baker St. Muse
    Reputation: michael573114's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    136
    Quote Originally Posted by jonkanon View Post
    I see some people have problems with filling the IFP on RT3 monarch.

    I also had this problem, as i just tried to thread the adapter into the main schrader valve

    (snip)
    My monarch is much better at 225 on my nukeproof mega.
    Yep, I'm trying to thread it in the right place, it just won't go. I've been working on filing down the edges and going to clean up the threads and see if that helps, and if not, just buy another adapter. I'm pretty sure the issue is the adapter.

    That said, the Monarch at the default settings is so much better than my old RP23 on my Leviathan!

  20. #120
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    2
    I just got the adapter, but I am a little confused on adjusting the IFP pressure. I know you can adjust it while the shock is still on the bike, but do you have to let out all of the pressure in the main air can first before adjusting the IFP?

  21. #121
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    1,205
    The air can and IFP are separate chambers, you don't need to let air out of the can.

  22. #122
    h3d
    h3d is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    3

    oil?

    Hi there,
    I wish I had seen this tread before. Now I know why the piston broke and the tread as well . I had the wrong adaptors.

    I seem to have repaired the Monarch by glueing a new piston in the tread. But I have a question anyway. Somewhere I read the IFP should be at least 200 psi because of oil-separation. Is that correct? If so, do I now have a problem as the pressure has been zero and I haven't put any oil in?

    H3

  23. #123
    "El Whatever"
    Reputation: Warp's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    18,743
    Quote Originally Posted by h3d View Post
    Hi there,
    I wish I had seen this tread before. Now I know why the piston broke and the tread as well . I had the wrong adaptors.

    I seem to have repaired the Monarch by glueing a new piston in the tread. But I have a question anyway. Somewhere I read the IFP should be at least 200 psi because of oil-separation. Is that correct? If so, do I now have a problem as the pressure has been zero and I haven't put any oil in?

    H3
    Did you compress the shock while it had no pressure in the IFP?
    IF the answer is yes, you need to tear the complete shock apart and rebuild it. The IFP could have moved and you could have air in the oil side of the damper.

    If no, then just put inflate the IFP camber to 200psi (or thereabouts).
    Check my Site

  24. #124
    h3d
    h3d is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    3

    too bad!

    Thanks for the info. I think it means the schock has to be rebuild. As the IFP chamber was empty, the main chamber was also emptied. Doing that, the schock compressed itself.

    I'm not sure what the repairguy did, but it came back with no pressure in both chambers. After that I had the following situations: IFP chamber on pressure, main chamber not on pressure, IFP not on pressure, main on pressure and both on pressure.

    Conclusion: rebuild?

    Is that an easy job?

  25. #125
    "El Whatever"
    Reputation: Warp's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    18,743
    Quote Originally Posted by h3d View Post
    Thanks for the info. I think it means the schock has to be rebuild. As the IFP chamber was empty, the main chamber was also emptied. Doing that, the schock compressed itself.

    I'm not sure what the repairguy did, but it came back with no pressure in both chambers. After that I had the following situations: IFP chamber on pressure, main chamber not on pressure, IFP not on pressure, main on pressure and both on pressure.

    Conclusion: rebuild?

    Is that an easy job?
    Ok, if you didn't ride it or compress it on purpose (I understand that it only moved when the main chamber was deflated), you could get away with it.

    No offense, but you don't sound mechanically inclined. Watch the Monarch rebuild video on youtube to get an idea of what you have to do.

    I would do the following:
    - Pressurize the IFP
    - Remove the Air canister
    - Compress the shock by hand and check that all adjusters do as intended and that the shock extends alone by itself and the stoke is smooth and there are no knocks or sounds. That would mean the damper is in good condition.
    - Only now, you can reiinstall the air canister and pressurize the shock's main chamber.

    If with the canister not on the shock, the stroke is not smooth, you hear hissing or bubbling noises, or metallic sounds, or the shock does not extends by itself, then you need to open the damper and get it rebuilt.
    Check my Site

Page 5 of 7 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •