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  1. #1
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    Marzocchi Z1 freeride ETA fork 2004

    Hi ,
    I have a pair of these forks on my bike . I bought them in 2007 , they were old oem stock that i got to build a bike with. They have not had too much use offroad , in fact they are barely broken in but are still too stiff for my liking . I never "set up" these forks when i installed them , just fitted and used them.
    I'd like if they were springier , they just seem too stiff . What would be the best way to adjust this ? . Anyone use this fork or point me in the right direction ? . I dont want to go buy stuff like springs or oil if i dont need to but buy them i will if need be.
    Of 130mm travel i never get past 75mm , i'm 5'11" and about 175 pounds . There is about 27mm sag when i sit on the bike.

  2. #2
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    Check the oil height, use a lighter oil or swap out to lighter springs - nothing really to tune other than what I listed.

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    I'll have to break 'em down anyway so i'll check the oil height then and hopefully wont have to buy new springs .

  4. #4
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    Mine are about right for me without adding any "air assist" preload. And I am about 100kg naked....

    I hear some have converted one fork leg to air only by removing one spring. There's probably threads on it, here. You need to do a search.

  5. #5
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    The 04 Z1 ought to be pretty lively. The only true complaint about it is that it's slightly under-damped, meaning, the damper doesn't interfere with the stroke all that much which makes the fork typically feel very springy.

    If you can't get full travel, typically that means it has too much oil. Also, the oil in that fork gets dirty quickly when it's new and that causes oil to thicken up and add a lot of extra compression resistance. (typically you want to change the oil after just a month or two of use after putting it into service)

    The fork is very easy to take apart.
    http://www.mountainbikerides.co.uk/fettling/z150.htm

    A very important step not to be missed is cycling the damper when it outside the fork to get all the oil out. If you don't do that step, you'll have dirty oil trapped in there which will not only contaminate the fresh oil right away, but also cause you to have too much oil in the fork after the rebuild.

    _MK
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  6. #6
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    I have the same fork. I don't run any air-assist in them and I weigh less than you and mine work fine. The HSCV cart is awesome. Luv 'em. As others have said, check the oil height.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by MK_
    The 04 Z1 ought to be pretty lively. The only true complaint about it is that it's slightly under-damped, meaning, the damper doesn't interfere with the stroke all that much which makes the fork typically feel very springy.
    Couldn't that be simply remedy by running heavier weight oil? I have an 05 dual coil version. Only thing I don't like is how I can't change preload for being a light weight. Even with no air assist, I'm barely getting 3/4" sag on 6" fork.
    sth

  8. #8
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    I had a 2005 Z1 FR 1 . I weigh 210lb. ran no air preload and just used all the travel on larger drops. I couldn't imagine anyone under 200lb. having the correct spring rate. They didn't offer any other spring rates - may have to drop one coil.

  9. #9
    MK_
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    Quote Originally Posted by SingleTrackHound
    Couldn't that be simply remedy by running heavier weight oil? I have an 05 dual coil version. Only thing I don't like is how I can't change preload for being a light weight. Even with no air assist, I'm barely getting 3/4" sag on 6" fork.
    Not quite as the only control you have is rebound. You have to keep a good balance between the low and the high speed compression with the oil weight.

    _MK
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    @MK , thanks for that link , i'm gonna strip 'em down , replace the oil and check the levels . Didn't know about cycling the damper but i'll clean 'em as good as i can when i get to it.
    @Keen , would it not be better overall to switch to a softer spring rather than removing one altogether and use the air assist if it's too soft ?
    @Wavedude , you get full travel ?

    ...should i replace the seals while i am doing the oil ?
    Last edited by ringnut; 03-06-2010 at 09:36 AM.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by ringnut
    @MK , thanks for that link , i'm gonna strip 'em down , replace the oil and check the levels . Didn't know about cycling the damper but i'll clean 'em as good as i can when i get to it.
    @Keen , would it not be better overall to switch to a softer spring rather than removing one altogether and use the air assist if it's too soft ?
    @Wavedude , you get full travel ?
    Call Marzocchi and see if they have softer options for your fork, my 05' didn't.

  12. #12
    "El Whatever"
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    Quote Originally Posted by MK_
    Not quite as the only control you have is rebound. You have to keep a good balance between the low and the high speed compression with the oil weight.

    _MK
    I ran the HSCV on a AM1 for a while and I agree that it needs a little heavier oil not to feel underdamped.

    I had to remove the spring and ran only the ETA one with some little air preload. It felt a little divey until I used Fox 7wt oil (which ran a little heavier than Spectro). Then it felt sooo nice!
    Check my Site

  13. #13
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    I am pretty sure there was only the single spring rate for that fork, and the air assist was 'the way' to adjust the rate (pretty poor option IMO). It has been a while since I had the fork, and there might be some differences in the OEM version (Mrz at that time made a lot of 'one off' products for OEM mfg.

    I am ~190 and for trail type riding, I would run zero air pressure. To firm the fork for some 'urban' or jumping I would add a few pumps from a shock pump. It was so little air, I could not measure it accurately by PSI, so I just counted 'pumps' from deflated.

    THere is a little trick that might help a little, if 'zero pressure' is not soft enough: Compress the fork as far as you can in a static fashion (put all your weight on the bars etc. Then open the sir valve an let all the air out. Now, release/close the valve WITH THE FORK COMPRESSED. This will result in a slight negative air spring, making the fork softer off the top.

    Lastly, windwave.co.uk has MUCH more information and MUCH better documents for Marz products than Marz USA. Definately a better resource for info!

  14. #14
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    davep , thanks for that , thats a great idea . I'll check out windwave too .

  15. #15
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    i heard that the Z1 is not a good fork for people with terrible grammar. if you're 5'11" you should understand how to use periods and questions marks.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by davep
    THere is a little trick that might help a little, if 'zero pressure' is not soft enough: Compress the fork as far as you can in a static fashion (put all your weight on the bars etc. Then open the sir valve an let all the air out. Now, release/close the valve WITH THE FORK COMPRESSED. This will result in a slight negative air spring, making the fork softer off the top.
    What about using shorter preload spacer? I noticed there is 1/2"~3/4" preload spacer on top of the HSCV damper side. Thought about replacing that with same diameter pvc pipe, say 1/4"???
    sth

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by SingleTrackHound
    What about using shorter preload spacer? I noticed there is 1/2"~3/4" preload spacer on top of the HSCV damper side. Thought about replacing that with same diameter pvc pipe, say 1/4"???
    The spacer is just a spacer doesn't put a substatial amount of preload on the spring.

  18. #18
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    I've taken the forks apart and emptied the oil . The oil in the right side was clear and clean but filthy on the left side . The springs seem very stiff , i'm guessing these are the firm springs as they dont have a colour code , they are just plain metal .
    Does anyone know the weight rating for the plain metal spring ?
    Looking for replacement springs, all i can find are springs for the Z150 , are these compatible with the Z1 ?

  19. #19
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    I get the right amount of sag and full travel. I don't think there are different springs available--that's what the air-assist is for and tuning with oil-height. Just change the oil, put it back together, no air, and see how it rides. You can cheat and run a little bit less oil even (say 5mm worth). If they're new you'll need to let them break in a bit.

  20. #20
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    I agree with WaveDude. Just put it back together with the current springs and use the lowest oil height recommended for that year/model. Usually you measure with the fork compressed and measure down to the top of the oil level. Usually it's something like 45-55mm down from the top, so you'd want to go closer to 55mm for the least ramp-up.
    I stopped driving my bike into my garage - I'm now protected with Roof Rack Ranger app for my iPhone.

  21. #21
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    I was on to Marzocchi and they said that there were two travel kits available for the Z1


    850341/C SPRINGS KIT K=5,0 130MM+ETA (medium)

    850342/C SPRINGS KIT K=6,0 130MM +ETA (hard)


    All i have to do now is find a distributor that will get it for me .

  22. #22
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    Well , i contacted the Distributors (Cyclesuperstore and Windwave )and they dont seem too bothered about getting this part for me saying its not in stock at the moment . When you try to get on to Marzocchi they just point to the distributors , the distributors may make a call for you but thats about it ,. They wont order the part from Marzocchi , not the part i'm looking for anyway , despite Marzocchi supposedly being willing to make up these parts on request.
    What a load o' poo...
    .Its the last time i'll buy anything from Marzocchi or their "distributors" .

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