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  1. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by Supple1
    Thanks! I am 175 w/ pads and a moderate to aggresive rider
    I'd start with
    1x 18.15
    1x12.1
    1x16.1
    1x14.1
    1x12mm OD (chainring) spacer

    If you find after that you want more LS damping, go to 2x 18.15. NB the intermediate shim 12.1 gives a platform style feel to the shock; doesn't bob, but opens up easily on hits. I like it a lot. Go with redline 10wt/5wt 70:30 or 80:20 as a good place to start. Hope that helps.
    Cheers, Steve

  2. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stevo the Devo
    I'd start with
    1x 18.15
    1x12.1
    1x16.1
    1x14.1
    1x12mm OD (chainring) spacer

    If you find after that you want more LS damping, go to 2x 18.15. NB the intermediate shim 12.1 gives a platform style feel to the shock; doesn't bob, but opens up easily on hits. I like it a lot. Go with redline 10wt/5wt 70:30 or 80:20 as a good place to start. Hope that helps.
    Cheers, Steve
    Awesome, thanks!

  3. #103
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    Does anyone know the purpose of the mid valve or bleed valve that is on the bottom side of the compression TST2 piston? Its one shim with a tiny spring behind it. It looks like it allows the compression circuit to bleed back into the rebound circuit. Since the spring and shim are pretty easy to open I'm wondering how adding a shim to it would effect the fork. Looks like it would slow down the bleed towards the end of the circuit and might prevent bottoming out.

  4. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by thebronze
    Does anyone know the purpose of the mid valve or bleed valve that is on the bottom side of the compression TST2 piston? Its one shim with a tiny spring behind it. It looks like it allows the compression circuit to bleed back into the rebound circuit. Since the spring and shim are pretty easy to open I'm wondering how adding a shim to it would effect the fork. Looks like it would slow down the bleed towards the end of the circuit and might prevent bottoming out.
    It is the oil return port like you speculated. It needs to be very free flowing.

    Heads up that my return shim is starting to deform due to the shim stack mod. It deformed where the oil enters the compression ports. So keep an eye on it. I'll have to put a new shim in there. It might have been due to a low oil situation I had.

    P

  5. #105
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    I am thinking of buying a 2009 55 ata/tst2 does this mod still work on the 2009 dampeners?

  6. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigjp
    I am thinking of buying a 2009 55 ata/tst2 does this mod still work on the 2009 dampeners?
    I asked Marzocchi USA the same question and they said, yes.

  7. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.P
    It is the oil return port like you speculated. It needs to be very free flowing.

    Heads up that my return shim is starting to deform due to the shim stack mod. It deformed where the oil enters the compression ports. So keep an eye on it. I'll have to put a new shim in there. It might have been due to a low oil situation I had.

    P
    Hey Pat,
    FWIW, the shim in mine already had a bit of deformation before I performed the mod, so don't think that is the cause (at least not entirely). Easy enough to change though. Bronze, the rebound circuit is at the bottom of the damper ie there are separate pistons for compression and rebound (this is actually an orifice damper, not shimmed). I would be very reluctant to increase shim weight on the return side of your comp piston; as P said, it need to be very free flowing. If anything you would make it lighter, not stiffer. Note that this shim (really a check-plate) will have no effect on compression (ie bottom out resistance), only on rebound, and that in a negative way. If you want more BO resistance, either increase your spring rate, or increase HS comp damping with a less tapered (and stiffer) shim stack. Hope this helps. Cheers, Steve

  8. #108
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    So does anyone know if this mod can be done to the 2007 All Mountain 1 tst2 cartridge?

  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stevo the Devo
    If you want more BO resistance, either increase your spring rate, or increase HS comp damping with a less tapered (and stiffer) shim stack. Hope this helps. Cheers, Steve
    I ran it by Tom and he advised adding 10cc oil to the left fork leg. Oil height should be 45/50mm from top when fully compressed on that side. Since I left that leg stock it was never checked and a bit below that level.

  10. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barnsey
    So does anyone know if this mod can be done to the 2007 All Mountain 1 tst2 cartridge?
    This mod is for the 08/09 dampers only. The 07 and earlier are completely different.

    P

  11. #111
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    looks like all the tst2 forks are gone will this work with a 55 r?
    Leave no bolt untuned!

  12. #112
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    SLX, I think Jenson still has the xc600 with the TST2. If you need more than 140mm travel you could get the 55 R and then buy a TST cart from Zoke and perform the mod. In the past, zoke carts were really expensive though.

  13. #113
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    Maybe a slightly different question..

    Hey guys, I had a question. I have been riding my 55tst w/mod for about a month now, and I love it. One thing I noticed is that I'm having trouble finding the sweet spot for my air preload. The fact that the air pressure is too low to read on my pump doesn't help. What happens is my fork will feel way too soft spring-wise, I can basically bottom it out by pushing down, so I add air. But when I get the air and sag feeling good, there is alot of added stiction that comes with it. On the trail it feels like a light propedal setting is on, and it kind of has a "clicky" feel to it.

    Are you all also getting alot of stiction issues? I think it should be broken-in by now, I have put maybe 30 hours of aggressive riding on it. Also is there a rule-of-thumb for tuning the air gap vs. actual pressurized air in the left side?

    Oh yeah if it helps, my stack is 14, 16, 17, 18, 18 and stock oil weight.

    Thanks guys, this thread kicks a$$

  14. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by cesper
    Hey guys, I had a question. I have been riding my 55tst w/mod for about a month now, and I love it. One thing I noticed is that I'm having trouble finding the sweet spot for my air preload.
    N1 on the mod.

    For air preload, someone gave me the idea to count pumps rather than read the guage as it was more accurate that way. So far it has worked perfect. For me 26 pumps of air (roughly 20psi - I'm 190 pounds geared up).

    The stiction should mellow with break in and a bath oil change.

    Turn the fork upside down for a minute and compress a few times before riding to get the oil to lube the full inside of the fork.

    Mine is butter now, but I remember the stiction.

    Now that my stiction is gone, I am riding much more on the shim stack (oil bypass minimally open) and am liking it more.

    P

  15. #115
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    I think we need our own sticker for this mod ala Push. How about "Pull" or "Yanked"

  16. #116
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    Ok so I came across another question....the shim on the other side of the piston w/ the wave washer, why is it there? To me it seems like it is designed to "open" on the rebound stroke, but stay closed on the comp. stroke. Would it work to remove that shim and let all the damping be controlled by the stack?

    I just took the damper out to change shims and it turns out I still don't know everything I thought I did.

    Thanks

  17. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by cesper
    Ok so I came across another question....the shim on the other side of the piston w/ the wave washer, why is it there? To me it seems like it is designed to "open" on the rebound stroke, but stay closed on the comp. stroke. Would it work to remove that shim and let all the damping be controlled by the stack?

    I just took the damper out to change shims and it turns out I still don't know everything I thought I did.

    Thanks
    No. The ports which are blocked by the check plate are open on the side with the shim stack, so oil would essentially free bleed around the shims. The effect would be somewhat like having a MASSIVE orifice damper, so the shims would barely (if ever) come into play. At least thats what I think from memory of the piston. You would end up with very little LS and mid speed damping. Cheers, Steve

  18. #118
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    Small bump compliance mod?

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.P
    I had some shims from a previous Manitou TPC project and from MXTech.com

    Tom was a huge help in giving us the ID and max OD of the shims. See here: http://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspension/marzocchi-55-tst2-set-up-help-needed-393052-post4289055.html I went with a pyramid stack for a good balance of low speed and high speed compression in the shim stack.

    You can shape the stack to your needs. That is the beauty of this mod - improving your fork goes way beyond turning a knob. It is like doing what PUSH does (only without the dyno )

    What I was trying to achieve was allowing the orifice damper to still handle 50-75% of the duty, but when needed the shims would open removing any spike. The goal was to have a "platform" at what used to be lock-out (as mentioned above I did like the LO for fast climbing). This is why there are the number of shims I put in there. I might have put only 3 if I were to use the shims only for damping.

    I weigh 180.

    I just did another mod which is spring related that really opened up the small bump compliance. (I will post to another thread in a couple of days)

    P
    I was just wondering what this mod was? I'm getting ready to do the damper mod and thought I should go ahead and try this while I was at it. Thanks.

  19. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cesarm31
    I was just wondering what this mod was? I'm getting ready to do the damper mod and thought I should go ahead and try this while I was at it. Thanks.
    The spring mod was reducing the coil spring preload. I removed the black, 20mm tall plastic "ring" or "tube" from the top of the coil spring, and in it's place put a 10mm tall, PVC "ring", that was the same diameter.

    This had the effect of removing the 10mm of preload that was on the coil.

    I haven't posted this mod as I think the fork works better with the original preload. Tho it was more active on small bumps with the mod, it was also more divey. And after break in, I just haven't needed that extra softness. It's already butter. I discovered that there is such a thing as too much butter.



    P

  20. #120
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    I see, well thanks a lot Mr. P. Oh and another question. I was wondering if you know of any any place other than MX-Tech.com, preferably in California, to order individual shims for the damper mod.

  21. #121
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.P
    The spring mod was reducing the coil spring preload. I removed the black, 20mm tall plastic "ring" or "tube" from the top of the coil spring, and in it's place put a 10mm tall, PVC "ring", that was the same diameter.

    This had the effect of removing the 10mm of preload that was on the coil.


    P
    P, according to Marzocchi that black spacer is just a travel limiter. At least on my xc600 it was. I pulled it and i'm running the fork at 140. The 55 may be different, or it may be the same parts used on the 66 minus the spacer, who knows...

    I'm ready for the next mod. Have you guys thought about frankenforking this setup so the left side is all air? Might need a different piston and a way to limit the travel.

  22. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by thebronze
    P, according to Marzocchi that black spacer is just a travel limiter. At least on my xc600 it was. I pulled it and i'm running the fork at 140. The 55 may be different, or it may be the same parts used on the 66 minus the spacer, who knows...
    On the 55, the spacer goes on top of the spring at 160mm. Otherwise the spring does not make contact (too short - for the 140mm setting)

    Quote Originally Posted by thebronze
    I'm ready for the next mod. Have you guys thought about frankenforking this setup so the left side is all air? Might need a different piston and a way to limit the travel.
    I did a quick ride around the neighborhood, with the spring out and just air pressure. It worked, but I worried about consistency as it was using the oil as the piston, and the oil can slosh about, air get into the oil etc.

    I tried it for weight savings, ~250g for the spring, but then I would have to add oil (+ x grams) for end of stroke spring rate. So maybe even no weight savings in the end.

    I'm looking at adding an ATA cart for geometry adjustment and weight savings.

    P

  23. #123
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    has anyone tried the Enduro seals and wipers on this fork yet? I'm looking to do an oil change, the damper mod, and maybe the seals in one shot. I was wondering if they really make a difference at all since mine are still good. Are they a performance mod (less stiction)or just a better seal for the longetivity of the fork internals?

  24. #124
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    Enduro's are great but the first 20 miles its murder. Feels like the fork is locked out until they are broken in. But they last so much longer and have better tolerances than the stock. Plus they have blue ones which is cool.

  25. #125
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    Well since mine are still good, I think I'll wait until they start leaking before I get the enduro's. Thanks.

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