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  1. #226
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    This thread inspired me to look around on local auction sites... I found a Marzocchi 55 TST2 from 2009 with a broken lockout.

    I just took it apart, and it was a clear case of oil migration from the cartridge into the lowers. I would not be surprised if this is caused by the incredibly stiff blowoff washerstack.

    I'm planning to mod the compression circuit with one of the shimstack configurations in this thread, but I'm also curious about placing a ring-shim in there to preload the entire stack.

    I'd also like to machine a replacement rebound piston, and add a rebound shim stack, but that will have to wait until I have a functional bike to try it all out on

  2. #227
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    Rereading this topic and a two rides from this weekend- no matter how much I adjusted the psi or TST2 lever the forks rebound felt blown/ bust and the fork either spiked badly or submarined. At 220lbs I feel Im too heavy for the internal design and I think I will pay out and go with either the micro ti or rc3 internal replacement.

    Ideas?

  3. #228
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    Ps. I mean ideas as in micro good or just go for the 'daddy??


    Me and mods historically always go wrong.....I once experimented with oil weights and blew a et of Fox36s...

  4. #229
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    Quote Originally Posted by Horacek View Post
    Rereading this topic and a two rides from this weekend- no matter how much I adjusted the psi or TST2 lever the forks rebound felt blown/ bust and the fork either spiked badly or submarined. At 220lbs I feel Im too heavy for the internal design and I think I will pay out and go with either the micro ti or rc3 internal replacement.

    Ideas?
    Sounds like something did not go right.

    @ 220 pounds the main issue you will have is the spring system. It's a very light coil with an air assist.

    @220: light coil = blow through, air assist = helps only last 1-2 inches of travel.

    Great for big chunk, but otherwise hyperactive.

    P

  5. #230
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    I finally was able to put some shims on my TST2 damper, and I used the following configuration:
    20.1,
    preload ring (consists of a 20.25 ring with an ID of 16, and a 16.1 shim)
    20.1,
    2x18.1
    2x16.1
    2x14.1

    I havent ridden anything really rough yet, but so far it feels awesome! In the open-setting, square edges seem to just dissolve, while the lockout-setting seems to give a nice subtle pedal/brakedive platform. It doesn't really lockout enough for efficient out-of-the-saddle sprints, but my GT Sanction is not that kind of bike of course

  6. #231
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    Help. We've just spent over an hour trying to undo the top cap to strip the fork with no joy. Would a strap wrench work? Or.....is the cap threaded counter-clockwise???

  7. #232
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    No,normal thread. First time it's tight. Try a cut up inner tube to grasp the tube with after wiping off as much oil as you can to get a grip.
    SPD pedals are an absolute menace to the well-being of the world, and ought be banned immediately.

  8. #233
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bordershy View Post
    No,normal thread. First time it's tight. Try a cut up inner tube to grasp the tube with after wiping off as much oil as you can to get a grip.
    Ta would applying heat help? i.e. hairdryer or hot water?

  9. #234
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    You ARE trying to remove the top cap from the cartridge & not the crown right?

    When i modded my 08 TST2 i don't remember any locktite on the threads, but it was tight & the inner tube trick worked. Just resist the urge to clamp it with a tool coz if you crimp it your sol.
    SPD pedals are an absolute menace to the well-being of the world, and ought be banned immediately.

  10. #235
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    First thoughts? Unsure as Ive only cycled the forks around the block and not offroad....

    Unsure its worked?

    Riding at the kerb (lever fwd) its the same? as lever back
    One thing that I've noted is I now need more air psi than before. Is this good or no relation?

    Do i need to experience the forks on rock fast terrain to see the difference....afterall this is a high speed compression mod..

    The forks are still notchy however Ive only ridden the forks for 3 weeks total from brand new.

  11. #236
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    Quote Originally Posted by Horacek View Post
    Unsure its worked?

    Riding at the kerb (lever fwd) its the same? as lever back
    One thing that I've noted is I now need more air psi than before. Is this good or no relation?
    For me, the lockout setting is now pretty loose... more like a platformed setting, where you have to push beyond a threshold for the oil to flow. This setting is great for climbing and technical terrain where you don't want any brake dive.

    What kind of stack are you using?

  12. #237
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    I'm using pyramid stack 17mm, 16mm, 16mm, 15mm, 13mm. I'm 210lb in weight and I agree, from first impressions my lever is also pretty loose. I did think 'on a rocky terrain would the lever move itself with the trail impact/jarring forces'??

  13. #238
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    Quote Originally Posted by Horacek View Post
    I'm using pyramid stack 17mm, 16mm, 16mm, 15mm, 13mm. I'm 210lb in weight and I agree, from first impressions my lever is also pretty loose. I did think 'on a rocky terrain would the lever move itself with the trail impact/jarring forces'??
    That's not what I meant with "loose" :P
    I meant that the hard lockout feeling is gone, and that it has been converted to a platform compression damper with my stack.

    Is your stack stiff enough to feel "locked out" ? And what pressure do you run? I run so little air pressure, that it doesnt even register on my shock pump :P ... maybe 5 or 10 psi?

  14. #239
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    Ah, yes that definite lockout feel has gone. The lever doesn't feel loose loose just smooth(?) in operation. I couldn't discern any difference between full off and full on though. Thats my fear (do I need to change/make the stack more pronounced?). Maybe its more subtle in operation...... I ran 40psi last night- forks were too linear. Ran 55psi and it felt better. If I ran 10psi the forks would sag well over 50%!

    How much do you weigh??

    I'll fit a ziptie tonight and do some more fettling, will stand up pedal aggressive etc to see if it sits further up in travel with compression 'on'..

  15. #240
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    Quote Originally Posted by Horacek View Post
    Ah, yes that definite lockout feel has gone. The lever doesn't feel loose loose just smooth(?) in operation. I couldn't discern any difference between full off and full on though. Thats my fear (do I need to change/make the stack more pronounced?). Maybe its more subtle in operation...... I ran 40psi last night- forks were too linear. Ran 55psi and it felt better. If I ran 10psi the forks would sag well over 50%!

    How much do you weigh??
    I would say that you can try to use a bigger shim stack, as you see I currently use a preloaded stack of 8 0.1mm shims. I currently weigh about 86kg (190lbs), and my fork is a 160mm 2009 Marz 55 TST2 with coil spring & air assist.

    I'm actually considering creating my own dual-air spring for this fork, to replace the heavy steel spring and huge oil bath.

  16. #241
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    Wow.


    One tweak, how do I make the compression difference more pronounced? Two more 17mm shims added should do it?

    Still, wow. A totally different fork on rocky descents. The forks are BETTER than me - I actually thought last night 'erm isn't this abit quick'? (worried but smooth/fast).

  17. #242
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    Quote Originally Posted by Horacek View Post
    Wow.


    One tweak, how do I make the compression difference more pronounced? Two more 17mm shims added should do it?

    Still, wow. A totally different fork on rocky descents. The forks are BETTER than me - I actually thought last night 'erm isn't this abit quick'? (worried but smooth/fast).
    MOAR shims!

    P

  18. #243
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    Idea! The way the shims work

    Well, I've been following this thread for a long time. I have now twice disassembled my 2010 55 TST 2 and I think I'm starting to figure the compression out... If I understand correctly the shim stack offers compression damping in parallel to the adjustable orifice ("lockout" knob).
    This seems to agree with the marzocchi recommendation of 3X 18mm 0.15mm thick shims (see earlier in this thread), as without some significant resistance to low speed in the shim stack, the adjustable orifice will have no influence.

    So I've added a few shims to my stack and it is now at:
    3X18
    2X16
    2X14
    all 0.1mm thick

    This was after I had to go to 28psi to avoid bottoming out on a 1m-to-flat drop (that's 3ft) on the previous setting of 1x18, 2X16, 1X14.
    I'm now running 22psi, getting realistic sag (20%) and the ex-lockout knob actually seems to make a difference to low-speed compression.

    I had a look at the rebound shim while the damper was open, and it seems that currently there is only one pre-loaded 20mm shim. I wanted to replace it with a 17mm, but the internal diameter hole for the rebound is 10mm not 8mm like on the compression side - so I used the only one I had, a 16mm (all 0.1mm thick).

    Will post some findings, when it stops raining around here and I can get out.

  19. #244
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    ... and if we just ... current shim stack performance

    Just wanted to update from my previous post,
    Finally got around to some real riding the other day, and here are my impressions:

    The 55 TST2 2010 is seriously rigid, much better than my 2005 150mm All-mountain 1, which was starting to bottom out, and "squirm" regularly.

    Still not the most sensitive to small stuff, but reasonable.
    Fast medium size stuff (staircases) is still smooth.
    Fast large hits (drops and jumps) are nice - the damping is obvious and no bottoming out.

    Now that the damping is more significant, I can lower the air pressure to 21psi, and the fork is much more active - it is amazing what 2-3psi will change.

    As a matter of fact, not only do I not bottom out, it seems like I am only getting to about 145mm travel, even on the bigger stuff (7ft jumps to flat/mild downward slope). I guess I may have overfilled my oil, or the dampening is just stiffening progressively.

    Still, the performance is the best so far, and no sign of bottoming out at my test wheely drop - a 3ft to absolute flat (at low speed).

    I'm 175lbs with riding gear, and tend to be light on my gear.

  20. #245
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    tst2 o rings

    hi ,I've been reading through the post and would like to say its awesome ,good job guys m question is can any1 tel me the o ring sizes as i want to change them ,once I've removed the cartridge thanks in advance

  21. #246
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    I've just bought a steel hardtail. Is it possible to decrease the travel on my 160 TST2's to 140mm?

  22. #247
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    Quote Originally Posted by Horacek View Post
    I've just bought a steel hardtail. Is it possible to decrease the travel on my 160 TST2's to 140mm?
    There used to be a small 20mm black spacer on top of the positive spring between the spring and the air cap. Move that to the negative spring and your at 140mm.

    P

  23. #248
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    Quote Originally Posted by Horacek View Post
    I've just bought a steel hardtail. Is it possible to decrease the travel on my 160 TST2's to 140mm?
    Ha ha ha ha ha.


    What happened to the SX?

  24. #249
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    Mazz's UK Importer etc say its not possible to reduce the travel on the 160 TST2's.


    The SX? It aint going nowhere...well to the powdercoaters..

  25. #250
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    Question- how does this mod compare to the TST Micro cart?
    (Not micro ti).

    My forks hydrolocked and need a service-Im not touching them/sent them back to Mazz. The Micro cart addin works out at only +$40 extra as they'd throw the service in/done a deal.

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