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  1. #1
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    Marzocchi 55 Micro Switch TA service infos?

    Merry Christmas to you all,
    Just bought a used 55 Micro Switch TA and would like to give it a good service over the winter. I can't find much on Zoke's website so here I am asking you guys for any tips, videos, guide etc

    The fork has both a micro cartridge (TST?) and the travel adjustment one.

    I am used to do my own fork maintenance and have work on both open bath system(2007 RC2X) and closed cartridge(fox) so I should be fine.
    Last edited by nightnerd; 01-03-2013 at 08:44 AM.

  2. #2
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    Bumping this thread as I suspect it didn't get much attention because of the holidays... I hope someone will have knowledge to share!

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    I'd like to know as well....

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    Me too please. Only service centre in Australia says Marz wont even give them service info for these and other forks. You can find info on damper and dust/wiper seal replacement but not on bleed procedure for the TA cartridge.

  5. #5
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    That seems to be the main drawback to Marz compared to say Fox, Rockshox, X-Fusion, and even Manitou.

    I keep seeing references by Marz on Pinkbike that they will be releasing more relevant service information on their web site soon but no specifics on when that will be exactly.

    I get that a manufacturer wants to keep a Fred from bungling equipment but at the same time this isn't rocket science and following a clearly laid out procedure should be up to the user of the product I think.

    Quote Originally Posted by niva1989 View Post
    Me too please. Only service centre in Australia says Marz wont even give them service info for these and other forks. You can find info on damper and dust/wiper seal replacement but not on bleed procedure for the TA cartridge.

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    I agree. Not all bike riders are hopeless when it comes to servicing their own bikes. Many would work on much more complicated equipment and are more than capable of following a procedure. Most special tools are super cheap or can be easily substituted without issue. A huge plus is the satisfaction you get from doing it yourself and actually learning a bit about the insides of something that you own and have invested a lot of money in. LBS still wins as you buy the parts through them and not everyone would have the time or interest in servicing themselves.
    I will probably just stick with Rockshox from now on. They have very well laid out manuals readily available for all their products and don't treat all riders like "Freds". I say put it out there for those of us that want to do it!!!

  7. #7
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    I have a guide somehwere for the 09 marz 55 TST micro...but they have probbably totally changed since then.

  8. #8
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    Hi Guys,

    Still havent got an answer to the service proceedure for the TA cartridge? Someone out there must be able to help!!

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    I tried this last night. There's a little silver screw on top of the TA cartridge. DON'T open that!! Oil went everywhere . Must have a been a bleed valve or something. I'm still desparately searching for a step-by-step guide on how to service this fork.

  10. #10
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    Smile

    Ta service - you will need a ta shaft tool and a bleed fitting https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=jGhB9fJWwak

    The damper has a few videos on the web. Let me know if you need help finding it
    Last edited by bing!; 04-04-2015 at 06:00 AM.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by bing! View Post
    Ta service - you will need a ta shaft tool and a bleed fitting https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=jGhB9fJWwak

    The damper has a few videos on the web. Level now if you need help finding it
    You won't find anything more than these videos. I made the tools myself. M6 threaded rod for the compensator piston. I made the bleed tool out of an M5 threaded bolt cut to the same length as the screw you took out. I drilled a hole half way through it then another hole across to connect to the first hole. I the. Soldered a bit of tube on the top to attach my reverb bleed syringe. Wasn't too hard to do.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by bing! View Post
    Ta service - you will need a ta shaft tool and a bleed fitting https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=jGhB9fJWwak

    The damper has a few videos on the web. Level now if you need help finding it
    Quote Originally Posted by niva1989 View Post
    You won't find anything more than these videos. I made the tools myself. M6 threaded rod for the compensator piston. I made the bleed tool out of an M5 threaded bolt cut to the same length as the screw you took out. I drilled a hole half way through it then another hole across to connect to the first hole. I the. Soldered a bit of tube on the top to attach my reverb bleed syringe. Wasn't too hard to do.
    These are great videos though!!!!! I don't know how in the world I didn't come across these late last year.

    Would you mind posting up a few pictures of some of the tools you created? I have a tech from Marz Canada willing to hook me up and walk me through all this, but he did mention I MUST buy some specific proprietary tools first: vice blocks, STA wrench, compensater piston tool and bleed fitting for the syringe. Thoughts?

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisingrassia View Post
    These are great videos though!!!!! I don't know how in the world I didn't come across these late last year.

    Would you mind posting up a few pictures of some of the tools you created? I have a tech from Marz Canada willing to hook me up and walk me through all this, but he did mention I MUST buy some specific proprietary tools first: vice blocks, STA wrench, compensater piston tool and bleed fitting for the syringe. Thoughts?
    I don't think this video was there late last year. I have some Park vice jaws and a Park 23mm cone spanner that does the job. I am travelling for the next week and don't have any pics on me of the tools. You need to be careful when pulling the top cap off the TA cart as there are 2 rubber balls and a very small detent ball and spring. The tools don't have to be perfect. The bleed tool is the most time consuming to make. Will send you some pics when I get home next weekend. Best I can do. The tech guys @ Marz in Canada are awesome. Just don't expect anything out of the Italians. They don't understand what product support is all about. It took me almost a year to get where you are now. I had just about binned mine when I laid it all out on the bench one day and it made sense.

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    That would be much appreciated. Whenever you have a chance. I'm in the same boat as you were, trying real hard to get a service guide, but Marz in US and Italy were abnormally unhelpful. They must be run like a car dealership, making most of their revenue from service dept.

    I don't think I realized it until last night watching a bunch of videos again, but the 55 Micro STA actually has two cartridges: TST Micro in the right leg, STA in the left leg (excuse my ignorance there, that's why I'm here to learn about this fork). Based on this video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_HrBmbS3lGw) the TST seems pretty simple to service. Based on this video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jGhB9fJWwak), the STA is going to be a complicated mess.....especially since I accidentally opened that bleed valve and dumped a bunch of oil. Now I have no choice but to service that STA cartridge.

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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisingrassia View Post
    That would be much appreciated. Whenever you have a chance. I'm in the same boat as you were, trying real hard to get a service guide, but Marz in US and Italy were abnormally unhelpful. They must be run like a car dealership, making most of their revenue from service dept.

    I don't think I realized it until last night watching a bunch of videos again, but the 55 Micro STA actually has two cartridges: TST Micro in the right leg, STA in the left leg (excuse my ignorance there, that's why I'm here to learn about this fork). Based on this video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_HrBmbS3lGw) the TST seems pretty simple to service. Based on this video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jGhB9fJWwak), the STA is going to be a complicated mess.....especially since I accidentally opened that bleed valve and dumped a bunch of oil. Now I have no choice but to service that STA cartridge.
    Dont worry. It isn't that complicated. I have a pair of 44s not 55s but they will be basically the same. The STA bleed screws in the 44s are M5 thread so you will just need to check if yours is the same. Yes there are two cartridges the micro tst is very easy to rebuild. No bleed procedure just fill oil up to the thread. After a while you will find that the TST cart will suck oil from the lower leg and lock up. Just drain and refill to correct level will fix this. I have had this happen before. Some forums say to just grease the bushes on the tst side to avoid this happening but I just put half the amount of recommended oil in and a bit more grease and haven't had it happen again. Will post some pics of the tools I made next weekend.

  16. #16
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    And if youse all need a bleed fitting, "M5 hose tail" is the name you'll wanna search for

    Brass Hose Tail Adaptors M5 Met Male x 03mm ID Hose Brass 9 02178 | eBay

    Great info on the fabrication of a compensator tool!

    I made a thread on our local forum with this info as a marker for myself when I need to do it in the future.

    The definitive ghetto guide to servicing the Marzocchi 55 Microswitch TA
    Last edited by bing!; 04-04-2015 at 07:11 AM.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by bing! View Post
    And if youse all need a bleed fitting, "M5 hose tail" is the name you'll wanna search for

    Brass Hose Tail Adaptors M5 Met Male x 03mm ID Hose Brass 9 02178 | eBay

    Great info on the fabrication of a compensator tool!

    I made a thread on our local forum with this info as a marker for myself when I need to do it in the future.

    The definitive ghetto guide to servicing the Marzocchi 55 Microswitch TA
    Cool info. Nice one-stop-shop for those with a 55 Micro STA. However, could you elaborate on how to fabricate the compensator rod? I assume there's gotta be more to it than just buy an M6 rod from Lowes.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisingrassia View Post
    Cool info. Nice one-stop-shop for those with a 55 Micro STA. However, could you elaborate on how to fabricate the compensator rod? I assume there's gotta be more to it than just buy an M6 rod from Lowes.
    Thats pretty much it. You need to be able to screw into the compensator with the rod, and hold it down while you bleed. You can make a handle if you wanted.

    The key info I got her was the size of the thread. I've tried servicinf one already. I couldnt tell what the thread was as the thing you screw into is buried 12 inches inside the TA cart.

  19. #19
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    So I tried getting apart this TST Micro cartridge tonight, and can't get it to break loose. At first I thought I was supposed to loosen the black nut, but that clearly wasn't right once it started oozing oil everywhere.

    I then re-watched a YouTube video and it looks like I'm supposed to loosen the silver edged nut from the lower cartridge. But it's stuck on there. I tried a box wrench, a crescent wrench, heating it up with heat gun and clamping that nut in the vise and trying to unturn the cartridge housing. No dice. It's not budging at all. Am I doing this right? The problem with just trying to loosen with a box/crescent wrench is that as I turn on the silver nut, the whole cartridge housing begins to unscrew from the top cap. Thoughts? Advice?
    Marzocchi 55 Micro Switch TA service infos?-20150405_201637.jpg

  20. #20
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    Scratch that. Needed a second set of hands (fiance's) and rubber bands for grip to hold the cartridge housing while I turned the nut. Loctite was the culprit.

    Call me crazy, but I just can't see why Loctite is needed in applications like these. The theory of this thing unscrewing itself while inside the stanchion is comical.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisingrassia View Post
    Scratch that. Needed a second set of hands (fiance's) and rubber bands for grip to hold the cartridge housing while I turned the nut. Loctite was the culprit.

    Call me crazy, but I just can't see why Loctite is needed in applications like these. The theory of this thing unscrewing itself while inside the stanchion is comical.
    if you have little experience with stuff like this, youd be suprised how easily thing loosen themselves within anything the cycles.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bing! View Post
    if you have little experience with stuff like this, youd be suprised how easily thing loosend themselves within anything the cycles.
    Really? Well do you think the "residual" loctite that's still on the threads is sufficient when I put it all back together? Or should I scrape off the old stuff and put a few new drops on?

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisingrassia View Post
    Really? Well do you think the "residual" loctite that's still on the threads is sufficient when I put it all back together? Or should I scrape off the old stuff and put a few new drops on?
    Henkel is a high tech company. They recommend you clean the old stuff off with alcohol and use new thread lock each time.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bing! View Post
    Henkel is a high tech company. They recommend you clean the old stuff off with alcohol and use new thread lock each time.

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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisingrassia View Post
    That would be much appreciated. Whenever you have a chance. I'm in the same boat as you were, trying real hard to get a service guide, but Marz in US and Italy were abnormally unhelpful. They must be run like a car dealership, making most of their revenue from service dept.

    I don't think I realized it until last night watching a bunch of videos again, but the 55 Micro STA actually has two cartridges: TST Micro in the right leg, STA in the left leg (excuse my ignorance there, that's why I'm here to learn about this fork). Based on this video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_HrBmbS3lGw) the TST seems pretty simple to service. Based on this video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jGhB9fJWwak), the STA is going to be a complicated mess.....especially since I accidentally opened that bleed valve and dumped a bunch of oil. Now I have no choice but to service that STA cartridge.
    Here are some photos of the tools I made. M6 threaded rod with 2 lock nuts to grip onto. This screws straight into the compensator piston to allow it to be cycled and bled. The bleed tool is an M5 bolt cut to 12.5mm thread length. I then drilled a 2.0mm hole through the centre of the bolt starting at the allen key head end about half way into the bolt. I then drilled the same size hole in from the side until it broke through into the first hole in the centre of the bolt. I drilled this hole approx 3mm down from the underside of the head or approx 4 threads down. I then drilled out the allen key flats and machined the end of a bit of tube to fit which i soldered in place. Then i tapped out the end to accept my rockshox reverb bleed syringe to make it easy to adapt to. Another easier option would be to use the M5 hosetail from Bing!'s post and tap the head of the drilled out bolt to accept the hosetail.
    My way isnt the easiest or neatest but it did the job perfectly.

    Marzocchi 55 Micro Switch TA service infos?-img_3316.jpgMarzocchi 55 Micro Switch TA service infos?-img_3317.jpgMarzocchi 55 Micro Switch TA service infos?-img_3318.jpgMarzocchi 55 Micro Switch TA service infos?-img_3320.jpgMarzocchi 55 Micro Switch TA service infos?-img_3321.jpg

  26. #26
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    Wow, well how about that!! All for what...$15 in supplies? Maybe? Awesome work.

    Curious how you drilled those holes in the bolts though....

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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisingrassia View Post
    Wow, well how about that!! All for what...$15 in supplies? Maybe? Awesome work.

    Curious how you drilled those holes in the bolts though....
    I have a lathe here at work so it made it easy but you could do with a hand drill and a vice to hold the bolt or a small drill press with a vice. If you mess up the bolt it isnt a big deal. I bought a packet of them from local hardware shop for a couple of dollars. The hole in through the side is the hardest as you will need to use a centre drill first then a 2mm drill bit. This is best done in a small drill press that has a vice. Due to the threads the drill will want to wander off centre. I am sure if you ask around you will find someone who can help you make it if you dont have the tools. Let me know if you need anymore info. If you lived in Australia i could post it to you to borrow.

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    Quote Originally Posted by niva1989 View Post
    I have a lathe here at work so it made it easy but you could do with a hand drill and a vice to hold the bolt or a small drill press with a vice. If you mess up the bolt it isnt a big deal. I bought a packet of them from local hardware shop for a couple of dollars. The hole in through the side is the hardest as you will need to use a centre drill first then a 2mm drill bit. This is best done in a small drill press that has a vice. Due to the threads the drill will want to wander off centre. I am sure if you ask around you will find someone who can help you make it if you dont have the tools. Let me know if you need anymore info. If you lived in Australia i could post it to you to borrow.
    I had a feeling you were going to say you had all sorts of fancy machinery available to you somehow. Yet another reason I wished I lived in Australia.....<sigh>.....

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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisingrassia View Post
    I had a feeling you were going to say you had all sorts of fancy machinery available to you somehow. Yet another reason I wished I lived in Australia.....<sigh>.....
    Yes....the all year round riding weather is pretty good too.....just to rub it in!

    Let me know how you go. I am pretty sure you will know someone who can help you out making this. Wish Marzocchi were like RS and made everything avaiable to do it yourself. There is nothing like the satisfaction of getting things done yourself. You don't really save too much money initially when you are getting tooled up but the second rebuild is a good saving and you can then help out your mates when they need it.

    I actually bought a pair of Pikes while these forks were out of action and they are a very nice fork but not the best for XC marathons. I only have one bike at them moment that needs to do it all.

  31. #31
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    So I'm having a hell of a time trying to get new oil seals in place. I bought this tool


    It's a perfect fit on the seals, but they refuse to go in. I've liberally oiled the seals as well as the fork leg. What is your secret for getting these things in?!?!? I've seriously got oil all over my tools and towel and hands. This is crazy. There's gotta be a secret method.....

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisingrassia View Post
    So I'm having a hell of a time trying to get new oil seals in place. I bought this tool


    It's a perfect fit on the seals, but they refuse to go in. I've liberally oiled the seals as well as the fork leg. What is your secret for getting these things in?!?!? I've seriously got oil all over my tools and towel and hands. This is crazy. There's gotta be a secret method.....
    They are a tight fit. No secret method. I know this sounds silly but just make sure there isnt anything left behind in the lower leg and you removed all of the old seal and clips. Make sure your tool isnt bottoming out before the seal has gone all the way home. The seal goes in pretty deep.

    Take a deep breath and watch this video again even if you have watched it before:

    Tech Tuesday - Marzocchi 44 Video - Pinkbike

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    Quote Originally Posted by niva1989 View Post
    They are a tight fit. No secret method. I know this sounds silly but just make sure there isnt anything left behind in the lower leg and you removed all of the old seal and clips. Make sure your tool isnt bottoming out before the seal has gone all the way home. The seal goes in pretty deep.

    Take a deep breath and watch this video again even if you have watched it before:

    Tech Tuesday - Marzocchi 44 Video - Pinkbike
    Too funny, watch that video again is exactly what I did last night .

    I noticed almost right off the bat that what ends up happening is, as I push the oil seal down, the seal press tool starts to lean to one side. Basically, the Marzocchi-specific tool has a long thick rod that extends down into the fork leg so as to ensure the seal goes in straight and the tool doesn't get crooked at any point. I think this seal press tool I bought was a waste of money. The piece that protrudes inside the oil seal doesn't actually go down into the fork leg at all, so there's nothing in place to keep the tool straight as I push down.

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    So you made special tools for the bleed fitting and the compensator piston. Cool. But what about necessary vice blocks and the special wrench needed to get the STA open?

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by bing! View Post
    And if youse all need a bleed fitting, "M5 hose tail" is the name you'll wanna search for

    Brass Hose Tail Adaptors M5 Met Male x 03mm ID Hose Brass 9 02178 | eBay

    Great info on the fabrication of a compensator tool!

    I made a thread on our local forum with this info as a marker for myself when I need to do it in the future.

    The definitive ghetto guide to servicing the Marzocchi 55 Microswitch TA
    Great link. Thank you. I ended up ordering both a 3mm ID and 4mm ID adaptor. I assume all I'll need is a syringe and some clear tubing to set this up, right?

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisingrassia View Post
    So you made special tools for the bleed fitting and the compensator piston. Cool. But what about necessary vice blocks and the special wrench needed to get the STA open?
    I have a Set of Park Tool vice blocks but you could use 2 blocks of timber And file out a rough half circle in each. You just need a bit more surface contact to grip. Just don't tighten too much or you will crush the tube. Clamp as close to the end as possible same as the tech video. I have a few cone spanners of different sizes and these always work well on the thinner nuts. Just don't use a shifting spanner as you will round off the hex. You might need to use a heat gun or hairdryer to loosen the loctite but I doubt it.

    Actually scratch that I was thinking of the damper not the STA. The STA has a slotted nut that needs a hook spanner. This really isn't a tool specific to Marz. It does need to be a smaller one to get a good grip on the nut. Most hardware stores should have something adequate.
    Last edited by niva1989; 04-15-2015 at 03:54 AM. Reason: Spelling

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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisingrassia View Post
    Great link. Thank you. I ended up ordering both a 3mm ID and 4mm ID adaptor. I assume all I'll need is a syringe and some clear tubing to set this up, right?
    I don't think this hose tail will do the job as is. It needs to also seal at the top of the STA cap like the bleed bolt you removed. The M5 thread inside is a blind hole so you need the hole as shown in the picture of my bleed tool. This hose tail is useful to interface from the bleed tool to the syringe though instead on my soldered piece of tube.

    Another thing I forgot to note is the syringe needs to be one that actuates fairly easily this is why I adapted to the Rockshox bleed syringe.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by niva1989 View Post
    I have a Set of Park Tool vice blocks but you could use 2 blocks of timber And file out a rough half circle in each. You just need a bit more surface contact to grip. Just don't tighten too much or you will crush the tube. Clamp as close to the end as possible same as the tech video. I have a few cone spanners of different sizes and these always work well on the thinner nuts. Just don't use a shifting spanner as you will round off the hex. You might need to use a heat gun or hairdryer to loosen the loctite but I doubt it.

    Actually scratch that I was thinking of the damper not the STA. The STA has a slotted nut that needs a hook spanner. This really isn't a tool specific to Marz. It does need to be a smaller one to get a good grip on the nut. Most hardware stores should have something adequate.
    I just called Marz USA, they want $60 for the STA wrench, and $84 for the bleed syringe kit. I about shit my pants. Stuff like this makes me frustrated I like Marz products. Crooks.

    I will plan to buy some lumber and spade bits to make adhoc vise jaws. I'll walk around and see what I can find for a potential hooked wrench.

    Quote Originally Posted by niva1989 View Post
    I don't think this hose tail will do the job as is. It needs to also seal at the top of the STA cap like the bleed bolt you removed. The M5 thread inside is a blind hole so you need the hole as shown in the picture of my bleed tool. This hose tail is useful to interface from the bleed tool to the syringe though instead on my soldered piece of tube.

    Another thing I forgot to note is the syringe needs to be one that actuates fairly easily this is why I adapted to the Rockshox bleed syringe.
    I'll need to watch that full 30min STA service video on youtube again so I can understand how the bleeding operation works. I think I get your point though, which is: how do you keep the whole thing bled once you have to remove the hose tail and put the regular screw back in.....
    Last edited by chrisingrassia; 04-15-2015 at 11:12 AM.

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    I just watched the video again, specifically the bleeding portion, and compared the mark at 21:18 with that of the device you've constructed. The only difference I can see is the hose tail adaptor has its oil release hole through the bottom, while yours is a hole off to the side. Is that right?

    If that's the case, I don't see any differences as to how the oil is pushed/pulled. In the video, after it's bled, he just unscrews the syringe, tops it off with oil and screws the bolt back in place.

    So, ultimately, what's the functional difference between the oil hole out the bottom of the bolt versus the side?

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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisingrassia View Post
    I just watched the video again, specifically the bleeding portion, and compared the mark at 21:18 with that of the device you've constructed. The only difference I can see is the hose tail adaptor has its oil release hole through the bottom, while yours is a hole off to the side. Is that right?

    If that's the case, I don't see any differences as to how the oil is pushed/pulled. In the video, after it's bled, he just unscrews the syringe, tops it off with oil and screws the bolt back in place. So, ultimately, what's the functional difference between the oil hole out the bottom of the bolt versus the side?

    Ok. The main thing to explain this is the top cap that these 2 bolts hold on isn't threaded. The M5 thread is in the head of the main cartridge that the top cap slips over. This is a blind thread so the oil does go down through here. You are bleeding the chamber created by this top cap. If you take the other screw out the top cap just slips off. I will post some pics of the STA head apart and it should make things a bit clearer as they don't show you the STA top cap apart in the video.

    As for your question about finishing the bleed it is fine just removing the bleeding tool putting a couple of drops of oil down the hole then putting the original bolt back in. This is the least of your worries with the procedure. You have a detented cam in between these parts with 2 rubber balls that close off the ports depending on the position so be careful pulling this apart if you do as the parts can go flying around your garage. I recommend not pulling this apart unless you have to.

    After doing this a few times now I think if you were desperate and careful you might be able to do this without a bleed too.....maybe. I will try and explain in next post with some pics.

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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisingrassia View Post
    I just watched the video again, specifically the bleeding portion, and compared the mark at 21:18 with that of the device you've constructed. The only difference I can see is the hose tail adaptor has its oil release hole through the bottom, while yours is a hole off to the side. Is that right?

    If that's the case, I don't see any differences as to how the oil is pushed/pulled. In the video, after it's bled, he just unscrews the syringe, tops it off with oil and screws the bolt back in place.

    So, ultimately, what's the functional difference between the oil hole out the bottom of the bolt versus the side?
    Hopefully these photos make it clearer. They show the top cap apart. You can see the 2 rubber balls, the selector cam, the detent spring and the main body of the cart. The little 2 or 3mm detent ball can be seen in the head of the bolt in the centre of the main body. I spent hours looking for it and it was wedged in there. They give you a white outline to orientate the cam correctly and you can also see the 2 small oil ports in same picture. One of these ports goes into the the compensator piston chamber and the other port goes into the chamber created around the outside of the cart by the cartridge tube and the 3rd chamber is created by the STA top cap slipping over the top of the main cart body. As you can see it might be best to leave the cart together and just bleed unless you think the seals are shot.

    When you bleed you are removing the air from all 3 of these created chambers. I think with some trial and error you could bleed without the bleed tool, it would be tricky and you would need about 5 hands. You could just use some sort of cone shaped end on a syringe and push oil in through the bleed hole as you cycled the compensator piston and the main TA shaft chamber but it would be very frustrating.

    Marzocchi 55 Micro Switch TA service infos?-img_2837.jpgMarzocchi 55 Micro Switch TA service infos?-img_2835.jpgMarzocchi 55 Micro Switch TA service infos?-sta-top-cap.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by niva1989 View Post
    Hopefully these photos make it clearer. They show the top cap apart. You can see the 2 rubber balls, the selector cam, the detent spring and the main body of the cart. The little 2 or 3mm detent ball can be seen in the head of the bolt in the centre of the main body. I spent hours looking for it and it was wedged in there. They give you a white outline to orientate the cam correctly and you can also see the 2 small oil ports in same picture. One of these ports goes into the the compensator piston chamber and the other port goes into the chamber created around the outside of the cart by the cartridge tube and the 3rd chamber is created by the STA top cap slipping over the top of the main cart body. As you can see it might be best to leave the cart together and just bleed unless you think the seals are shot.

    When you bleed you are removing the air from all 3 of these created chambers. I think with some trial and error you could bleed without the bleed tool, it would be tricky and you would need about 5 hands. You could just use some sort of cone shaped end on a syringe and push oil in through the bleed hole as you cycled the compensator piston and the main TA shaft chamber but it would be very frustrating.

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    Oh wow. OK, that is great info and pics. I did not know that. So basically, with those tail adaptors I bought, if the threading portion of them isn't long enough to actually make it to the cartridge past the top cap, then I'll still need something else for them to be useful (like the bolt you created). Thanks for the info; I will cross my fingers that they'll reach . I won't need to take off the top cap, the seals are fine. Actually, the STA was fine until I accidentally opened that bleed valve not knowing what I was doing >_< . Now I got no choice but to fix it all and make it new.

    On a related note, went to Home Depot last night (which is like the WalMart of home improvement stores), and here in the good ol' US-of-A, because we still haven't adopted the metric system, I'm unable to get metric-threaded rod. They carry only standard sizing in fine and coarse thread. So I'll need to acquire that online somehow. Doh!

    Can you tell me the thread pitch I'll need? M6x1.0? M6x1.5? M6x2.0?
    Last edited by chrisingrassia; 04-16-2015 at 11:58 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisingrassia View Post
    Oh wow. OK, that is great info and pics. I did not know that. So basically, with those tail adaptors I bought, if the threading portion of them isn't long enough to actually make it to the cartridge past the top cap, then I'll still need something else for them to be useful (like the bolt you created). Thanks for the info; I will cross my fingers that they'll reach . I won't need to take off the top cap, the seals are fine. Actually, the STA was fine until I accidentally opened that bleed valve not knowing what I was doing >_< . Now I got no choice but to fix it all and make it new.

    On a related note, went to Home Depot last night (which is like the WalMart of home improvement stores), and here in the good ol' US-of-A, because we still haven't adopted the metric system, I'm unable to get metric-threaded rod. They carry only standard sizing in fine and coarse thread. So I'll need to acquire that online somehow. Doh!

    Can you tell me the thread pitch I'll need? M6x1.0? M6x1.5? M6x2.0?
    It is an M6x1.0 thread but you need to remember I have 44's not 55's but the tool part numbers are the same so should be ok. Yes the USA and the UK are funny not to embrace the metric system. I have been used to working with both my whole life.

    It doesnt matter how long the hosetail is, it wont be able to seal in the top cap. You will need a to modify a bolt like I did. I think with the M5 hosetail, a power hand drill or bench drill press, M5 Tap and a 2mm drill bit you could make you own easy enough. It doesnt need to look pretty, it just needs to seal and get oil into and out of the top chamber. I took the oring off the standard bolt and used it on the bleed tool i made.

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    Quote Originally Posted by niva1989 View Post
    It is an M6x1.0 thread but you need to remember I have 44's not 55's but the tool part numbers are the same so should be ok. Yes the USA and the UK are funny not to embrace the metric system. I have been used to working with both my whole life.
    Great, thanks. I'll order something online. Tonight, I did get a chance to remove the "air chamber" from the STA cartridge. Just give it a once-over, check all the seals and whatnot. All looks good and clean, I think it's just the TA side that needs to be bled. But I was thinking about the threaded rod I'll be buying, and it looks like that will end up screwing into the place I have shown with the arrow? It'll screw in there after I remove that air nozzle? Couldn't find any other place it would be going...

    Marzocchi 55 Micro Switch TA service infos?-20150416_213902.jpg

    Quote Originally Posted by niva1989 View Post
    It doesnt matter how long the hosetail is, it wont be able to seal in the top cap. You will need a to modify a bolt like I did. I think with the M5 hosetail, a power hand drill or bench drill press, M5 Tap and a 2mm drill bit you could make you own easy enough. It doesnt need to look pretty, it just needs to seal and get oil into and out of the top chamber. I took the oring off the standard bolt and used it on the bleed tool i made.
    Alright, I understand where you're goin' now. It makes sense. I know I can get an M5 bolt no problem, and I already have a tap set. So I can work on that next, and I need to get a syringe and clear tubing.

    Also, I was watching the Marz STA video again, and they said to use 80w transmission oil on all the parts inside the cartridge. Is that what you used? Or can I survive with the 7.5w fork oil....

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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisingrassia View Post
    Great, thanks. I'll order something online. Tonight, I did get a chance to remove the "air chamber" from the STA cartridge. Just give it a once-over, check all the seals and whatnot. All looks good and clean, I think it's just the TA side that needs to be bled. But I was thinking about the threaded rod I'll be buying, and it looks like that will end up screwing into the place I have shown with the arrow? It'll screw in there after I remove that air nozzle? Couldn't find any other place it would be going...

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Alright, I understand where you're goin' now. It makes sense. I know I can get an M5 bolt no problem, and I already have a tap set. So I can work on that next, and I need to get a syringe and clear tubing.

    Also, I was watching the Marz STA video again, and they said to use 80w transmission oil on all the parts inside the cartridge. Is that what you used? Or can I survive with the 7.5w fork oil....
    Ok. Look up inside the tube where you removed the air spring shaft. You will see the M6 thread in the compensator piston right up the top. Just watch the video again and you will see why the rod needs to be so long. This piston pushes up when you select the lower travel the oil behind this piston tranfers to the cavity created between the cart and the tube when the travel shaft lowers. The compensator piston is called the compensator piston as it also increases the air volume to make a plush ride at the shorter travel.

    As for the lubing of the air shaft. The chamber that this air shaft assembly has no oil in it, only air so you need a small amount of oil to coat these components. I am sure you could even use a light grease in place of this thick 80w oil they recommend or just put it back in with the original oil coating it if you haven't washed it clean.

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    Forgot to mention you might need a torch to see the M6 thread way up inside the tube. You aren't bleeding the whole assembly, only the small cartridge in the top.

    I don't know if you have ever bled Shimano brakes using the little screw in cup at the lever. Well this procedure is like that but instead of a syringe at the brake calliper pushing oil and air bubbles up to the cup/funnel at the lever, you are using the compensator piston and the travel shaft as your syringes. They suck oil into their chambers from the STA bleed port and then push the air back up into the syringe when cycled. You basically just keep cycling them until no air comes out. If you could mount a funnel or cup in the bleed port hole and get it to seal in the thread-less STA top cap then you could do the same thing here as the funnel/cup would replace the syringe but it may get messy. This would only be an option if you got very desperate.

    Another thing to remember is putting the travel adjust knob in the middle position as he mentions in the video.

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    Quote Originally Posted by niva1989 View Post
    Ok. Look up inside the tube where you removed the air spring shaft. You will see the M6 thread in the compensator piston right up the top. Just watch the video again and you will see why the rod needs to be so long. This piston pushes up when you select the lower travel the oil behind this piston tranfers to the cavity created between the cart and the tube when the travel shaft lowers. The compensator piston is called the compensator piston as it also increases the air volume to make a plush ride at the shorter travel.

    As for the lubing of the air shaft. The chamber that this air shaft assembly has no oil in it, only air so you need a small amount of oil to coat these components. I am sure you could even use a light grease in place of this thick 80w oil they recommend or just put it back in with the original oil coating it if you haven't washed it clean.
    Got it! Didn't realize I'd be screwing into the actual TA section. Good thing I bought a 3ft rod . I probably won't buy trans oil, I'll just liberally use the 7.5w fork oil or the 5w motor oil I also used in the lowers.

    Quote Originally Posted by niva1989 View Post
    Forgot to mention you might need a torch to see the M6 thread way up inside the tube. You aren't bleeding the whole assembly, only the small cartridge in the top.

    I don't know if you have ever bled Shimano brakes using the little screw in cup at the lever. Well this procedure is like that but instead of a syringe at the brake calliper pushing oil and air bubbles up to the cup/funnel at the lever, you are using the compensator piston and the travel shaft as your syringes. They suck oil into their chambers from the STA bleed port and then push the air back up into the syringe when cycled. You basically just keep cycling them until no air comes out. If you could mount a funnel or cup in the bleed port hole and get it to seal in the thread-less STA top cap then you could do the same thing here as the funnel/cup would replace the syringe but it may get messy. This would only be an option if you got very desperate.

    Another thing to remember is putting the travel adjust knob in the middle position as he mentions in the video.
    Yep, have bled my XTR's several times. I know exactly what you're talking about -- the push/pull method of getting all air out by moving fluid through all the gaps. Then just topping up after I remove the bolt. I did notice the guy in the video talked about creating a vacuum before unscrewing the bolt, is that going to leak out lots of oil?

    All tons of great info, thanks for all your help. You're the first person I've met throughout this whole 6-month process that's actually done this yourself. Cheers!

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    I wouldn't worry too much about creating a vacuum. Just make sure the travel shaft is extended fully and the compensator piston is fully down (pull down on the threaded rod). Then push down on the syringe to make sure everything stays there the. Unscrew the bleed tool. Just give it a little squirt of oil in the bleed hole before you put original bolt back in. It should work first go if you have experience bleeding brakes.

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    Quote Originally Posted by niva1989 View Post
    I wouldn't worry too much about creating a vacuum. Just make sure the travel shaft is extended fully and the compensator piston is fully down (pull down on the threaded rod). Then push down on the syringe to make sure everything stays there the. Unscrew the bleed tool. Just give it a little squirt of oil in the bleed hole before you put original bolt back in. It should work first go if you have experience bleeding brakes.
    Cheers! Just waiting on getting the threaded rod (should be here Wednesday), and will make a bleed bolt in the meantime. Once I do this for one whole time around, I should make a complete video for this fork so others in the future have something to reference.

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    threaded rod and tail adaptors have arrived! Ugh, now to attempt this bleed bolt....

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    Good luck! I am sure it will work out fine.

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    Went and picked up some M5 allen bolts, two different vinyl clear tubing pieces (to fit either adaptor and will obviously cut to length actually needed) and a syringe from a livestock store. I'll need to sand down the syringe rubber stopper just a tiny bit to make it a smidge easier to go up/down via pressure alone. I tried drilling a hole down one of the allen bolts with a hand drill, that certainly didn't work. I'm ready to rock, but need to find someone with a drill press. Won't be able to do this bleed bolt by hand.

    Marzocchi 55 Micro Switch TA service infos?-20150428_174316.jpg

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    So this weekend I went and bought a cheap drill press from Harbor Freight (8 in. 5 Speed Bench Drill Press). It's not perfect, but I can use it for tons of other things as well. I've been able to drill a bleed hole lengthwise down the middle of the bolt, but trying to drill a cross hole on the threads is turning out to be near impossible. The press seems to have too much play in the chuck, and the instant the bit touches the threads it shoots off to the side. I'm ssooooo close to getting this part made.

    Question: would this bolt still work fine if I just drilled the hole all way out the bottom? So the oil comes from the bottom, not the side?

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    Well I ended up getting this bleed bolt done!

    It's not pretty though. Was able to drill the allen bolt holes just fine, but had tons of problems with attaching the hose adaptor to it. Wasn't able to tap the bolt, so I tried soldering them together -- no dice. Solder wouldn't stick to either.

    So I ended up cutting off the hose adaptor threads and using Loctite epoxy to stick them together and make it liquid tight. Time to try the bleeding this weekend!


    Wish me luck.

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    OMFG!!!!!

    You are not going to believe this.

    So this whole setup worked perfect. I did have to trim off some epoxy on the outside of the allen bolt so it would get flush with the cartridge, but it bled like a charm without leaking any air through it. Got the whole cartridge bled, created the small bit of vacuum, took the tool out, filled the hole with oil and screwed the silver bolt back in place. Put the cartridge in the grips, took my Nm torque wrench, dialed it to "5", started to crank it down, and......snap!


    Yep, the silver allen bolt head broke right off the threads. And right at the junction point, too, where it now lets air into the chamber.

    All that work, gone. Gotta buy a new STA cartridge now since I have no way to get the rest of that bolt out. Jesus f*cking christ. Complete Ingrassia luck.....

    I am SO sick of bike companies using these cheap aluminum nuts and bolts. I've broken/stripped aluminum junk from Shimano and SRAM, too, following their minimum torque setting spec. Please, for the love of god, can these co's start using titanium or steel products? Godd*mnit.

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    So I am excited to announce that I have completed this bleeding project!!

    Turns out, the leftover threads that were still stuck in the cartridge also still had the o-ring in there. I was able to get that out with a pushpin, and then use two exacto knives 180 degrees from each other to back the bolt out. SWEET!!!

    I then just used one of my whole M5 allen bolts as a replacement. I picked up a 10pk of rubber grommets that were precisely the exact same diameter of the allen bolt head and used one in place of the Marzocchi o-ring. I spent a few hours bleeding the STA cartridge, trying to do it different variations of where the knob was turned. I couldn't figure out why the Marz video tells you to put the knob in the 50/50 spot between open and closed, so I tried it that way as well as fully open (the "DH" position). I feel like it had better bleeding in the DH position. I used the Golden Spectro 7.5w oil for the bleed, got the whole fork put back together and it works perfectly. I think I'll slap it into my bike next weekend, just give it a quick ride to see how it all works.

    Very, very pleased.

    Wanted to say thanks to all who helped, particularly NIVA1989 (haven't seen him around here for a bit). Overall, I probably spent more $$ to do this myself (with parts and tools I specifically needed to buy or make), but I'm thrilled I now know completely how to service my own fork.

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    Sorry Chris have been awal for a little while with sick kids and busy traveling for work. I also stopped getting the thread update emails.

    Glad you got it sorted. I could have been some help when you snapped the bolt too. Who cares if it cost more. You did it yourself and got the knowledge and satisfaction. You can't put a price on that. You can also amaze your mates and say "did it myself and it was so easy!" (They don't need to know the frustrating bits).

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    Quote Originally Posted by tkm16 View Post
    I have a guide somehwere for the 09 marz 55 TST micro...but they have probbably totally changed since then.
    can I see your guide for the 09 55 tst micro?

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    So I have fully rebuilt the fork minus the Switch TA cartridge and it feels a little stickier than I'd like. I feel like it may just be lacking lubrication from releasing air a few times and getting a good blast of oil released. I really don't want to rebuild it as I would have to get a couple new tools. Has anyone ever just injected some oil in for lubrication with a schrader fitting of some sort?

    Also, does this fork leg have some mechanism for lubricating with the bath oil? Or is all of the air spring lubrication provided internally?

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    Quote Originally Posted by mboland View Post
    So I have fully rebuilt the fork minus the Switch TA cartridge and it feels a little stickier than I'd like. I feel like it may just be lacking lubrication from releasing air a few times and getting a good blast of oil released. I really don't want to rebuild it as I would have to get a couple new tools. Has anyone ever just injected some oil in for lubrication with a schrader fitting of some sort?

    Also, does this fork leg have some mechanism for lubricating with the bath oil? Or is all of the air spring lubrication provided internally?
    The air spring just gets a light coat of oil with a brush. There is a negative coil spring in there and a top out bumper. The STA travel adjust cartridge has oil in it but it is only for the operation of the TA cart.

    The seal kits from Marz are not the best quality and some of the seals were missing or not the correct size when I did it a while ago. I wasn't happy with mine after the rebuild and it turned out the negative coil Spring supplied in the kit wasn't the right one. I put the old Spring back in and it felt much better but I still think the main problem was the seal quality. I ended up binning my fork and replacing it. It's a shame as it was such a good fork when new.

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    So I rebuilt it with Enduro seals and some Motorex 7.5W. Turns out the gauge on my pump is way off since I dropped it, just adjusted by sag measurement and now it's pretty buttery.

    So one thing I curious about, when you release air from the air spring and sometimes forget to flip it and get a blast of oil, that must need to be replaced?

    Quote Originally Posted by niva1989 View Post
    The air spring just gets a light coat of oil with a brush. There is a negative coil spring in there and a top out bumper. The STA travel adjust cartridge has oil in it but it is only for the operation of the TA cart.

    The seal kits from Marz are not the best quality and some of the seals were missing or not the correct size when I did it a while ago. I wasn't happy with mine after the rebuild and it turned out the negative coil Spring supplied in the kit wasn't the right one. I put the old Spring back in and it felt much better but I still think the main problem was the seal quality. I ended up binning my fork and replacing it. It's a shame as it was such a good fork when new.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mboland View Post
    So I rebuilt it with Enduro seals and some Motorex 7.5W. Turns out the gauge on my pump is way off since I dropped it, just adjusted by sag measurement and now it's pretty buttery.

    So one thing I curious about, when you release air from the air spring and sometimes forget to flip it and get a blast of oil, that must need to be replaced?
    I don't think you should be getting a blast of oil as the parts in there only get a light coating of oil with a brush. You may have put too much oil in when you rebuilt or your TA cartridge is leaking internally. You would notice your travel adjust not working though.

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    I've never really posted in forums so I hope I'm in the right place. I have a Marzocchi rc3 ti 44 2011 fork and I don't have the right air adapter, it seems to be too short. Does anyone have the right adapter laying around they would be willing to get rid of? I bought a Trek Fuel EX 7 2011 and he sold me this fork with it for an awsome price. I really like the fork except it dives too much when braking and I'm hoping a little air will solve this problem. 150mm fork on a 120mm frame seems like it might be a bit much but I do like the geometry. Anyways thanks in advance

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    Quote Originally Posted by Forkyu View Post
    I've never really posted in forums so I hope I'm in the right place. I have a Marzocchi rc3 ti 44 2011 fork and I don't have the right air adapter, it seems to be too short. Does anyone have the right adapter laying around they would be willing to get rid of? I bought a Trek Fuel EX 7 2011 and he sold me this fork with it for an awsome price. I really like the fork except it dives too much when braking and I'm hoping a little air will solve this problem. 150mm fork on a 120mm frame seems like it might be a bit much but I do like the geometry. Anyways thanks in advance
    SKS makes the adapter you need. Looks like it's on sale at Chainreaction for $7.99
    "SKS Marzocchi Adaptor"

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    Thank you!

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