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  1. #1
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    Marzocchi 350 CR 2014

    I have just received these forks and I have them fitted. However there is loads of stiction and the fork sags very little and when it does compress the action is not smooth. With 0 pressure the forks do compress fully at about half of recommended pressure the fork starts to compress more smoothly. It feels like there is almost no lubricant around the stanchions or seals?

  2. #2
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    Give it some time to wear in. On my 55cr I found I don't need to run as much air as is listed on their chart. Just run whatever pressure works on the trail for ya.

  3. #3
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    Could be worth checking the splash oil in the lower legs, as it seems every manufacturer lately seems to find it hard to put the correct amount in! They may be running a bit dry and causing the stiction.
    On the other hand, Marzocchi's forks have always had a tendency to take a while to bed in.
    I don't crash, I just have slightly uncontrolled dismounts!

  4. #4
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    Mfg tolerances may have come to play. Unlike all my Dt swiss forks[ seems to be a signature] my 55 Cr was one of the smoothest fork I've had out of the box. Seals were packed with grease which helped the top bushing lube.
    I'd monitor and possibly return it if it doesn't smooth out after a few months riding. it's not normal if my 55 Cr is anything to go by.

  5. #5
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    What pressure are you running? Mine arrived and had 90psi on them. And felt terrible.

    The manual doesn't cover the 350 at all. And the on line one is the same.

    I'm going to try 60-70 psi for 160 pound geared up.

  6. #6
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    Should be the same as a 55CR. I'm similar weight and run 75 psi and 1 or 2 turns compression.

  7. #7
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    If you're 160 geared up Id try 50 psi

  8. #8
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    That's too low for such a linear air spring.Is their something wrong with your fork? I can bottom the fork at 75 psi , no compression. I rely on adding some low speed compression[ adds incidental HSC ] to prevent harsh bottom out .
    Don't try and tune for low speed plushness. Tune for plushness at speed. that's where they smooth out.They aren't a bike packing fork.

  9. #9
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    I added a few CC's of oil to the air spring chamber through the Schrader valve to make the air spring more progressive. It now takes the absolute biggest hits to push the O-ring to the top, and it still doesn't feel like it bottomed out. So now it feels great in all conditions, with proper sag.

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    I'm 160 lbs geared up as well.

    I haven't been able to really push my forks yet or but some real mileage on them as I'm recovering from a broken wrist.

    However I did some tests last night I was running about 80 PSI no gear so about 155 lbs. The result being not very plush, not very good on small bump and not good on fast repeated hits, however they were ok on bigger single hits. My reference is a 2013 RS Sektor RL Solo air.

    I have now dropped the PSI to 70 and will run the same tests again tonight.

    A guy on another forum who runs some 55 CR that were purchased in the last few months has also had problems. His stanchions started to wear in lines and the fork felt stiff especially in the initial part of the stroke. They went back to the UK distributor who believes it is down to the wrong sized bushings in the lowers.

  11. #11
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    You must have a very good sektor or a poor 350. Mine make a rev rct3 feel like a elastomer fork in comparison in all but fire road small bump compliance.

  12. #12
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    Yeah I guess mine need sending back.

    They guy from the other forum got his 55 CR back and he said they were now really supple and none of the stifness/stiction in the initial part of the stroke.

    Mine still don't even sag properly.

  13. #13
    jzt
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    Hi, I had the same issues with my 350CR as well. Removed the lowers, spread some Molykote grease to the bushings, and seals, bolted the lowers back. Runs as plush as my previous 55 CR now. Not as plush as the Pike, but good enough, given they cost a lot less..

  14. #14
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    I guys, I purchased mine one week ago.
    In the begiing of the stroke it has some stiction, but now after some hours of use it is becoming smooth.
    When going downhill at high speed I canīt tell the difference with the Pike in terms of damping, but I feel the MZ350 itīs stiffer.
    I hope that this fork will be as realible as the Pike I have using from 1 year ago.

  15. #15
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    Any updates on the performance of the fork? How does it compare to the Pike?
    2014 Banshee Spitfire 650b
    2011-ish Chromag Samurai

  16. #16
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    My beginning stroke had some stiction but appear to be getting smooth. Compared to my old Sektor RL the 350cr are much stiffer and also feel better dampened. However I still need to dial them in and as I'm recovering from a broken wrist I'm still not up to speed with my riding.

  17. #17
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    Anybody have info on reducing travel on this fork? Prasedure ect

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by jzt View Post
    Hi, I had the same issues with my 350CR as well. Removed the lowers, spread some Molykote grease to the bushings, and seals, bolted the lowers back. Runs as plush as my previous 55 CR now. Not as plush as the Pike, but good enough, given they cost a lot less..
    any tricks to dropping the lowers? I'm not entirely familiar with the DBC cartridge or AER system, so I don't want to accidentally dump the cartridge or air spring oil while I'm just trying to grease up the bushings and seals. I've been told 20-25cc of 7.5wt Golden Spectro as bath oil in each leg.
    2014 Banshee Spitfire 650b
    2011-ish Chromag Samurai

  19. #19
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    dropping the lowers is easy and doesn't require any extra care. Just don't remove the top cap from the damper side or you will disassemble the cartridge and will have to reassemble and bleed it.

  20. #20
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    Thanks so just remove left side? Leave damper side alone

  21. #21
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    Pop the red rebound adjuster out of the right leg (this may be a ***** it's a red plastic cap with a allen wrench molded into it, and is held onto the foot nut by spring clip, takes a bit of force to pull it off the nut). Then undo the foot nuts and slide the lowers off. Clean grease and slide back on, add oil through the foot nut holes before sliding all the way on and tightening down.

  22. #22
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    Thanks very much for your help

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by AlienRFX View Post
    Pop the red rebound adjuster out of the right leg (this may be a ***** it's a red plastic cap with a allen wrench molded into it, and is held onto the foot nut by spring clip, takes a bit of force to pull it off the nut). Then undo the foot nuts and slide the lowers off. Clean grease and slide back on, add oil through the foot nut holes before sliding all the way on and tightening down.
    So this almost the same as a RS lowers service? You don't have to touch the top caps? Do you have to undo the lower bolts a bit then tap them like RS?

  24. #24
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    don't touch the knobs. my lowers pulled off super easily, no tapping required
    2014 Banshee Spitfire 650b
    2011-ish Chromag Samurai

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