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  1. #1
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    Manitou Minute Pro: where is all the stiction coming from?

    I have a fairly new Minute Pro, and man, it is pretty sticky. I admit it gets a little better on the trail, but is still not that great. I'm trying to figure out where it is coming from.

    Seals - possible, but I can't imagine new rubber on anodized aluminum can be that bad

    Bushings- Maybe. I am currently using way oil as lube, which worked great on my Reba, but I might have to try motor oil. I doubt it will make that much difference, though.

    Damper assembly- I don't think so because I can move the rebound piston easily by hand when the lowers are off.

    Spring assembly - I thought this was culprit as the spring is definitely going to buckle and lean against the stanchion ID. But I deflated most of the air pressure to take this load off, and the fork is still sticky.

    Air piston - I don't think so because if that were the case, I would still be able to feel the motion of the spring before the air piston moved.

  2. #2
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    I haven't noticed any stichion in my 2012 Tower Pro. My Tower Expert did suffer from stichion when air is added to the air assist. I would remove the damper & spring assembly and cycle the lowers on the stanchions both w/ & w/o the wheel to check the wipers / bushings. While you have the lowers off you could assemble the air spring / add some pressure and feel if it takes a bit of break away force to move the piston.

  3. #3
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    My month & half old Minute Pro is also having stiction issues, but only when the fork has been sitting for an hour or more, give or take, and that's only if I'm pushing on the handlebars while standing beside the bike. If I'm on the bike I don't notice any stiction, and if I ride the bike around for a bit then get off the bike and push on the bars, the stiction is gone. My guess is it's related to the bushings, riding the bike around would tend to splash oil into the bushings and free them up while letting the bike sit allows the oil to drain back down and let the bushings stick a bit.

    The oil in my fork is whatever Manitou used when they assembled it.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by aerius View Post
    The oil in my fork is whatever Manitou used when they assembled it.
    It's 5W-40 motor oil.
    From this it sounds like I most likely won't notice a big improvement if I switch to motor oil too.

  5. #5
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    I use 5W-40 oil in all my forks since Manitou told me that's the best alternative to Moterex semi-bath. The oil MUST be full synthetic, I buy Castrol European 5W40 Synthetic at Autozone. My minute is silky smooth after a few rides, oddly, my Nixon Super still has a slight notch feel when not in use, but I don't see much issue on the trail.

  6. #6
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    9mm QR?

    I have found a few 9mm QR forks over the years that get pinched when using certain hubs. Im not sure if the hub is slightly less then 100mm spacing or the fork was slightly over. But I found it to be an issue in the past.

    to check if this is the case, take the wheel off and push down on the fork without it and see if it feels better. Do it carefully to so you dont break the rebound adjuster. If it feels stiction free with the wheel off you have a hub spacing issue that can be resolved by using thicker cone lock nuts.

  7. #7
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    Add a little oil to the air chamber, just in case it's dry?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by mullen119 View Post
    9mm QR?

    I have found a few 9mm QR forks over the years that get pinched when using certain hubs. Im not sure if the hub is slightly less then 100mm spacing or the fork was slightly over. But I found it to be an issue in the past.

    to check if this is the case, take the wheel off and push down on the fork without it and see if it feels better. Do it carefully to so you dont break the rebound adjuster. If it feels stiction free with the wheel off you have a hub spacing issue that can be resolved by using thicker cone lock nuts.
    I did notice that my fork legs compressed in about 1mm when putting on the QR. I measured the spacing between the drop outs and it came out to 101mm. I tried pushing down on the fork even with the QR undone so the legs can spread and this 1mm didn't make a difference in helping friction.

  9. #9
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    Have you tried parking it upside-down for a few minutes to let the oil make its way to the top seal? Makes a big difference with my Reba. Not saying that's the solution, just a diagnostic. Might tell you if it's the stanchion/seal interface.

  10. #10
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    that only helped marginally

  11. #11
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    The advice, or the action? Well, either way, you may be on to something now. I put SKF seals in my kid's Manitou Dorado, but the wrong kind; axial vs. linear motion. Works good, but could be better. The bearing shop where I bought them said they could order the linear seals, which is on my to-do list. It's coming on winter and the slopes are covered in snow, so I have time... But back to your dilemma, Find a proper industrial bearing/seal shop and get some low-friction SKF seals for linear motion. That's what Fox does and oh brother, are they the sh1t. All seals are some standard size; nobody re-invents the seal because it's not worth it... just like car oil filters. You know the inside (stanchion diameter), measure the outside and you're good to go. By the way, don't get fooled by Enduro seals. That's some low-bidder Chinese commodity cr@p made by people who don't know oil seals from chop sticks. Great marketing, lousy product.

  12. #12
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    My new M Minute Pro does not have much if any stiction FYI. Agree try a different hub/wheel or take wheel off and try it on floor w/o wheel. a bit of bend inwards can cause problems.

  13. #13
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    If you cant figure it out, I would just contact Manitou. It doesnt seem to be a common problem and they have some of the best customer service in the business. You will likely get an email response in a few hours(may be a little longer due to the holiday).

  14. #14
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    You can also call them directly.

    Have you tried releasing all the air from the spring and then cycling the fork?

  15. #15
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    Well I guess it's time for an update since I recently bought another Minute Pro (100mm travel) and my old(er) one has had a good 6 months to get totally broken in.

    First, the old one. I did a full clean & rebuild on it over the winter, in hindsight it was completely unneeded since everything was squeaky clean inside after 4 months of riding. At the time of the service it still had a bit of stiction after it sits around for a while, less than what it was at the month & half mark but it never went away. Feels perfectly fine on the trails, and after the service it feels exactly the same as before.

    The new fork which I just got a few days ago is absolutely buttery smooth right out of the box. There's no stiction at all, it feels like a perfectly dialed coil spring fork when I push down on the handlebars. One odd thing to note is that it's about 5mm taller than my old one, the lowers and crown are the same length but the stanchions are 5mm or so longer. I haven't pulled it apart to see if they changed anything inside, and I did make sure both forks were fully extended. My old fork has a July 2011 manufacture date while the new one is July 2012, could be a model year change, or might be something else. In any case, they both feel exactly the same on the trails once I got the new one dialed in.

  16. #16
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    Where does it say the manufacturing date?

  17. #17
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    On the box.

  18. #18
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    I don't have the box anymore. But I did notice on the underside of the crown a "11" inside a circle with a bunch of dots around it.

  19. #19
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    I just checked both of my forks, the 2011 is the same as yours and the 2012 has a 12 inside a circle with dots around it. Looks like that's the date code. The 2011 also has an 11 on the back of the arch and the 2012 has a 12 instead.

  20. #20
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    BTW, my arch says "11" on the left side and "09" on the right. It probably was a 2012 model.

    Your new one might be a 2013 model.

    I guess I'll call manitou and ask them what the changes were.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by aerius View Post
    The new fork which I just got a few days ago is absolutely buttery smooth right out of the box. There's no stiction at all, it feels like a perfectly dialed coil spring fork when I push down on the handlebars.
    My Tower Pro 2012 has some stiction, which I notice only when I push down on the hadlebars.

    I did some tests recently to figure out when the air piston moves, at different air pressures. To do this, I had to slowly compress the fork, pushing down on the handlebars, and see when air pressure rose.

    I noticed I didn't manage to compress the fork continuously. Even when gently releasing pressure, the fork extended with tiny little steps, and not continuously. I don't know whether this behaviour is normal or is due to some excessive stiction.

    @aerius, when you say it feels like a perfectly dialed coil spring fork when pushing down on the handlebars, does this mean you don't have any little steps as I do, but it compresses continuously?

  22. #22
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    Manitou claims there is no difference between the fork years.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by solitone View Post
    @aerius, when you say it feels like a perfectly dialed coil spring fork when pushing down on the handlebars, does this mean you don't have any little steps as I do, but it compresses continuously?
    No steps at at all on the new fork, it moves continuously in both compression and rebound when I push on the handlebars.

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