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  1. #1
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    Manitou Minute Pro 100MM Tuning...

    I didn't see much online and wanted to know how to properly tune it for my weight and riding style... I am about 230 and it says no more than 100PSI. Just not sure about the rebound and dampening...

    I haven't put it on my bike yet (waiting for new wheels to come).

    This is my first "real" fork since I got rid of the crappy Suntour.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Manitou Minute Pro 100MM Tuning...-img_0423.jpg  


  2. #2
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    You've got one of the best forks on the market... but you've got to do some of the work yourself to make it act like it.

    Just pump it up with some air and go for a ride. Take it from there.. figure out what it does or doesnt do for you, and get it tuned. Theres no tuning to be done until you've been on it for a bit. They're good out of the box though.

    How to guide: Reshim your ABS+ HSC shim stack

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by polecats03 View Post
    This is my first "real" fork since I got rid of the crappy Suntour.
    Ooooooooooh, you're in for a treat.

    Like One Pivot said, air it up, set your sag (25% is a good place to start) and then take it for a ride, then adjust to taste.

  4. #4
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    I guess I am not sure what knob controls what? Like the Red one on top i am guessing controls the lockout but it has individual clicks to it before its locked out and on the bottom left I guess is a blue knob for dampening? not sure how to set it or what i am looking for in a ride...

  5. #5
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    Top is compression, bottom is lockout. Set the rebound about in the middle, if it feels too slow or packs up, open it up a bit. If it feels like you're being bounced back, slow it down some. Its a really good rebound though, it doesnt tend to pack up.

    You can play with the compression as you're riding, set it somewhere that feels good. Theres just not much you can do without having it on the trail first.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by One Pivot View Post
    Top is compression, bottom is lockout. Set the rebound about in the middle, if it feels too slow or packs up, open it up a bit. If it feels like you're being bounced back, slow it down some. Its a really good rebound though, it doesnt tend to pack up.

    You can play with the compression as you're riding, set it somewhere that feels good. Theres just not much you can do without having it on the trail first.
    so the red knob is for compression and the bottom blue is for lockout?? My Suntour had the lockout on the top. A lil confused... as you can tell I know nothing about forks.

  7. #7
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    Blue knob for rebound

  8. #8
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    Top is compression, including lockout. Bottom is rebound only.

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    The top knob is not actually a lockout. It functions as a lockout sometimes because it does such a good job of controlling low speed movement. It's actual function is a needle valve controlling the low speed compression damping.

    If you want to get technical: Open (all the way counter-clockwise) will give you the least platform while also decreasing energy dissipated across a wide range of shaft velocities. With the knob all the way clockwise/closed position it will feel locked out however enough force and the high speed damping shims will blow off allowing the fork to travel.

    I'm the same weight as you, but running the Minute Expert. I've switched to a "trail stack" which adds velocity dependency (an increase in the damping force as shaft velocity increases helping with bottom out.) I also added shims to keep a platform similar to the stock "XC tune."

    I'd recommend running the fork about mid-way on the red knob and the rebound a little less than half. This has been working well for me given my trail conditions.

    EDIT: I also switched to Bel-Ray 5wt fork oil- a little thicker than stock.

  10. #10
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    My abs+ is aftermarket.. when I got it, it very much acted like a lockout. You'd have to ride off a roof to blow it off when locked. I retuned it so theres really no lockout, just a very light platform when fully closed. Its such a good system, you could reshim it on the trail if you wanted to.

    Its very flexible, you've got a lot of options with that fork.

  11. #11
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    You should change the spring to the proper one for your weight. If you don't, the fork will require so much air you will lose small bump compliance, or it will ride low and wallow.
    Riding slowly since 1977.

  12. #12
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    I've been reading about different oil weights that some people use to stiffen up their forks as a way of avoiding getting a new spring, is this something that can be done on the minute pro? What weight oil would get the fork stiffer?
    I'm a noob to the minute pro and the seemingly infinite adjustments are mind blowing! I've having a hard time dialing it in to just where I like it and think a bit stiffer might be the way to go

  13. #13
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    Oil weight changes compression and rebound damping, not the spring. If you have the minute that uses air preload and its not enough, you really gotta buy a new spring.

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    Where can I get a new spring for my weight size? I haven't put the fork on my bike yet because I am waiting for my wheelset. So it doesnt really have a lockout but if I close the thing all the way it will take a huge bump to "blow it open" correct?

  15. #15
    What?
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    how much do you weigh?

  16. #16
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    about 220-230

  17. #17
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    Where can I order the firmer spring? How can I have it installed

  18. #18
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    No way around it, You need to order a x-firm spring.

    The way your fork works, there is a small coil spring that works for the first 25% of the forks travel. the other 75% is an air spring. If you dont get the stiffer coil, You will blow through the first part of your travel too easily.

  19. #19
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    I actually tried 10wt oil with a softer spring- it did not work well. Excessive brake dive with diminished bump compliance. I then got a firm spring to replace the stock one starting with 10wt oil, down to 7wt and ended up at, big surprise, 5wt oil. Turns out Manitou had it right when they spec'd it with 5wt although I'm pretty sure the Bel-Ray is still marginally heavier than the stock 5wt oil, you can get plenty of damping with it. (Keeping in mind I am an aggressive 230lb rider.)

    As far as a replacement spring for the Minute Pro Manitou Minute 29er/Tower Pro Ride Kit 2010 | Buy Online | ChainReactionCycles.com

  20. #20
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    How do I go about replacing it? Will it hurt if I dont replace the spring? Also, as Ive said this is my first real fork so I dont know anything about upkeep... what do I need to do? I dont even know how to add oil or anything... maybe i should have stayed with a crappy fork... lol
    Also i am scared to let someone at the LBS take apart a fork and put it together to ruin it...

  21. #21
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    there are plenty of good directions/instructons online on how to do this. You will need a few sockets, a box ended wrench and a few allen keys to take the thing apart. Its pretty esay but it is a little messy because of the oil. Given, it's a new fork and you've never done it before I would be a little hesitance as well.

    I'd order the heavy spring, however take it for a few rides as is, to see how it is working out. It will likely blow through travel too quickly for you, but if you're used to a crappy fork -- it will still be better than that.

    enjoy!

  22. #22
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    Yes there are plenty of tutorials and guides including the ones right from Manitou's website. If you're capable of properly installing the fork on the bike in the first place, with the use of the proper tools and following Manitou's service manuals or online tutorials you should be able to tear into it no problem. The spring is probably the easiest thing to replace and most important initially. As it's setup stock, the damper gives you a wide range of adjustments given you have the proper spring.

    As I hinted in my previous post, if you don't change the spring first, you're likely to end up tampering with the damper to try to improve brake dive and bottom out resistance when this is corrected by the proper spring weight resulting in adverse effects on the other ride qualities.

  23. #23
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    I guess I am going to call around to the LBS and see how they are at servicing forks. I am too scared I will not put it together right and then be out a lot of $$. I should also probably get the fork on my bike (stupid wheels are here yet) and then mess around with the knobs... still not sure what they each do but oh well...

    Like rebound? compression? shims? stacks? haha any feedback would be great.

  24. #24
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    This is an old thread....

    Polecats - how did you make out with the fork?

    I am in a similar situation myself. I need to order the xfirm spring kit for my Tower pro. I also have the tuning kit on the way, but never worked on an air/coil fork before. I am handy with the right tools which I have - including torque wrenches!

    I share your trepidation at messing around with such a great fork. My biggest problem is going to find the right oil locally I think... Them people are talking semi-bath oil and whatnot..... Noobs have it rough!


  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by iCollector View Post
    This is an old thread....

    Polecats - how did you make out with the fork?

    I am in a similar situation myself. I need to order the xfirm spring kit for my Tower pro. I also have the tuning kit on the way, but never worked on an air/coil fork before. I am handy with the right tools which I have - including torque wrenches!

    I share your trepidation at messing around with such a great fork. My biggest problem is going to find the right oil locally I think... Them people are talking semi-bath oil and whatnot..... Noobs have it rough!

    Download the service manual off the Manitou website. There is a YOUTUBE video as well. You can use 100% synthetic motor oil for the semi-bath from an auto parts store.

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