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Thread: Manitou Mattoc

  1. #3201
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    Quote Originally Posted by juster77 View Post
    my mattoc pro 2016 have original, what should i do to make it replace it
    https://www.manitoumtb.com/support/
    "For a warranty inquiry within the US, please contact our techsupport line at (888-686-3472) or email us at techsupport@hayesbicycle.com "

  2. #3202
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    Quote Originally Posted by juster77 View Post
    my mattoc pro 2016 have original, what should i do to make it replace it
    You have the updated version. Only the the 2014 model came with the old version.

    At this point, no one will be buying a new fork without the update. The update is now 3 years old, and all stock was updated before going out tp distributors starting late 2014. It's no longer worth wondering about.

  3. #3203
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    If anyone is on the fence about the toolkit...jesus, just buy it. I thought the cassette tool would be the hassle, but it's the ABSURD 8mm socket that's a PITA. The socket I decided to grind down is mostly air at this point.

    Tip: if you don't have a lathe or some other easy means of milling it down, a 1/4" 8mm is generally just small enough to chuck into most drills, so you can just spin it against a coarse file. Still not fast, but it's a little safer than trying to hold it in a bench grinder or something.

  4. #3204
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    Quote Originally Posted by phuchmileif View Post
    Tip: if you don't have a lathe or some other easy means of milling it down, a 1/4" 8mm is generally just small enough to chuck into most drills, so you can just spin it against a coarse file. Still not fast, but it's a little safer than trying to hold it in a bench grinder or something.
    I ground down my 8mm socket on a bench grinder. It was actually really easy, I put the socket on an extension rod and from there it's a piece of cake to hold and turn it against the grinding wheel. Definitely a lot easier and safer than trying to hold it against the grinder with your bare hands or vice-grips.

  5. #3205
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    Quote Originally Posted by phuchmileif View Post
    Tip: if you don't have a lathe or some other easy means of milling it down, a 1/4" 8mm is generally just small enough to chuck into most drills, so you can just spin it against a coarse file. Still not fast, but it's a little safer than trying to hold it in a bench grinder or something.
    I put an 8mm socket in my drill (1/2Ē chuck) and with in hand held it and had it turning at low speed. Other hand used a dremel with the basic grinding drum. Worked like a charm. Evenly ground it down and goes pretty quick.

    Iíve heard several say the split cassette tool in the kit can compress and slip. A new park FR 5.2 is deep enough to fit over the shaft.

    That leaves the 24mm socket. A standard 24mm could work but I have the $55 Park flat sockets and that has all you need for most forks.
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  6. #3206
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    I'd still probably be a little leery of the socket flying off at high speed.

    I can also report that the Park FR5.2 works brilliantly. Air valve fits right through it like it was made to do this job. Honestly not even sure why the slotted piece of shit exists (...okay, maybe don't buy the toolkit).

    Now, though, a question:

    Why would I want to put the lower legs back on to assemble the damper? I see no purpose to this. Manitou manual says install lower casting, then fill damper, then cycle damper, then final assembly.

    Aside from the PITA of having to cycle the damper against spring pressure (their method), it's also difficult to get the extension rod of the empty damper to meet up to the threads at the bottom of the fork. So, instead of fighting to get it installed, and fighting to bleed it...why not just get the damper sealed up before putting the casting back on?

  7. #3207
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    delete

    delete
    Last edited by juster77; 1 Week Ago at 12:02 AM. Reason: error

  8. #3208
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    Quote Originally Posted by ColinL View Post
    https://www.manitoumtb.com/support/
    "For a warranty inquiry within the US, please contact our techsupport line at (888-686-3472) or email us at techsupport@hayesbicycle.com "
    Quote Originally Posted by mullen119 View Post
    You have the updated version. Only the the 2014 model came with the old version.

    At this point, no one will be buying a new fork without the update. The update is now 3 years old, and all stock was updated before going out tp distributors starting late 2014. It's no longer worth wondering about.
    I disassembled the piston and I still have the old. I think my fork was part of old inventories, not updated. I contacted an assistance center here in Italy and they make me a free upgrade

  9. #3209
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    ok

    Quote Originally Posted by Porch View Post
    I just ordered mine through my LBS. BTI stocks them, which means just about any bike shop in the country should be able to get them for you. I didn't ask the price but i bet it's about $30.

    Here's the PN:
    item # model description in stock?
    AP-8547 Mattoc and Magnum (34mm) low friction dust seal kit YES


    There is also a set on ebay if you search for "mattoc seals" and it specifies that it's the low-friction variety.

    Edit: Just picked them up for $28 including tax and a 10% discount through my LBS.
    Thanks i'bought the Racingbros Lycan seals
    Last edited by juster77; 1 Week Ago at 12:05 AM. Reason: wrong quote

  10. #3210
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    I finally found some time again to work on the forks. I tried to pull out the compression assembly on my wifes Mattoc to redo the shimstack. To my surprise only the top half and a blue shaft came out, bottom part stayed in. See image.



    Probably both sides separated because I didn't torque it correctly the first time I messed around with the shimstack. I can put the blue shaft in but it feels like I can't torque it up as it feels like the bottom side is turning along. I'm afraid I have to open up the thing completely again to push it out from the bottom (or to be to able reach some sort of bottom nut to keep it from turning).

    Any suggestions?
    Last edited by CS645; 1 Week Ago at 02:42 AM.

  11. #3211
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    Quote Originally Posted by CS645 View Post
    I finally found some time again to work on the forks. I tried to pull out the compression assembly on my wifes Mattoc to redo the shimstack. To my surprise only the top half and a blue shaft came out, bottom part stayed in. See image.



    Probably both sides separated because I didn't torque it correctly the first time I messed around with the shimstack. I can put the blue shaft in but it feels like I can't torque it up as it feels like the bottom side is turning along. I'm afraid I have to open up the thing completely again to push it out from the bottom (or to be to reach some sort of bottom nut to keep it from turning).

    Any suggestions?

    That's not good. I would try to get the threads to engage with the top cap as much as possible and try to pull it out. If that doesn't work, you will have to do like you said and pull the fork apart and push it from the bottom

  12. #3212
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    Thanks, sigh...


    Any pointers on the require torque on the compression assembly to prevent the same thing from happening next time? I think I torqued it 3-5Nm the last time.

  13. #3213
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    Quote Originally Posted by CS645 View Post
    Thanks, sigh...


    Any pointers on the require torque on the compression assembly to prevent the same thing from happening next time? I think I torqued it 3-5Nm the last time.
    A little loctite 243 to keep it from unscrewing will do wonders. Many fork manufactures call for it when reassembling the dampers.


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  14. #3214
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cary View Post
    A little loctite 243 to keep it from unscrewing will do wonders. Many fork manufactures call for it when reassembling the dampers.
    Ok thanks.


    BTW, using a flute cleaning tool where you can wrap the lint free rag around is a susperior tool in my view to the mechanical grabber from the Manitou video. It's stiff and because you can easily wrap it there is no risk of scrating the inside of the stanchions.

    https://images.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=...b-font.jpg&f=1
    Last edited by CS645; 1 Week Ago at 02:41 AM.

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    What's the goal with shim stack tweaks? I messed around with it when I was trying to make a Pike RC not suck (...didn't work), but given the functionality of the Mattoc with it's three legit damper adjustments (and IRT), what is anyone looking to gain by modding the shim stack?

    I'm not saying anyone shouldn't- I'm just legit saying that I don't know, and I'm wondering if it's something that would be worth getting into. I'm pretty hardcore into tweaking my stuff, but I've gradually learned to try to leave things alone if I'm not sure what I'm trying to accomplish, lol.

    I'm always down for an improvement. The big thing for me was just getting the adjusters to feel usable...between the new oil/dust seals and a switch to Maxima 3wt, I think I'm really in the butter zone now.

    At ~185lbs (84kg), I was running about 50psi, with the rebound and HSC all the way open. It was a fairly smooth ride, but still seemed like it could be better on small bump, and I felt like the fork wasn't doing as much as it could when I really got into some faster downhill chunk.

    Dropped in IRT and switched to about 40/75psi. Already felt a little smoother, even though the weather was cold, which has always stiffened this fork substantially. Small bump a tiny bit better and I was now using all the travel.

    Have yet to go for a real ride after the new seals and oil change, but initial impressions are that my damping with rebound and HSC a couple clicks in is similar to what it used to be wide open. Fork feels overall more responsive, though stiction was never really an issue before (stock seals were probably as good as the Pike with SKF seals, which were way better than stock RS seals).

    I still can't figure out what the hell to do with the LSC knob, though. I never can decide where I want it...almost have to use it like a climb/descend switch (i.e. go all the way CW or CCW) to really feel a difference, and it's still a bit 'meh'...fork is still a bit soft for climbing (a tradeoff I gladly accept for comfort) yet I feel like going full-soft on descent sacrifices control. (edit to clarify: full LSC doesn't do much and zero LSC is too wallowy, so I generally just run it in the middle and try not to overthink it)

  16. #3216
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    Quote Originally Posted by phuchmileif View Post
    I still can't figure out what the hell to do with the LSC knob, though. I never can decide where I want it...almost have to use it like a climb/descend switch (i.e. go all the way CW or CCW) to really feel a difference, and it's still a bit 'meh'...fork is still a bit soft for climbing (a tradeoff I gladly accept for comfort) yet I feel like going full-soft on descent sacrifices control. (edit to clarify: full LSC doesn't do much and zero LSC is too wallowy, so I generally just run it in the middle and try not to overthink it)
    Vorsprung Suspension's tech videos might have an answer for you.

    Episode 5 explains how low & high speed compression adjustments work and how they interact with each other.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JEBNlHXUGdE

    Episode 6 expands on those concepts and goes into how they affect ride characteristics. It also explains setup procedures and what shim stack tunes are for.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E7veBt1Maj8

    I'd recommend watching the entire video series, Steve does a really good job of explaining how suspension works and once you digest all the info you'll be better at making your suspension work the way you want it to.

  17. #3217
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    Quote Originally Posted by phuchmileif View Post
    What's the goal with shim stack tweaks? I messed around with it when I was trying to make a Pike RC not suck (...didn't work), but given the functionality of the Mattoc with it's three legit damper adjustments (and IRT), what is anyone looking to gain by modding the shim stack?

    I'm not saying anyone shouldn't- I'm just legit saying that I don't know, and I'm wondering if it's something that would be worth getting into. I'm pretty hardcore into tweaking my stuff, but I've gradually learned to try to leave things alone if I'm not sure what I'm trying to accomplish, lol.

    I'm always down for an improvement. The big thing for me was just getting the adjusters to feel usable...between the new oil/dust seals and a switch to Maxima 3wt, I think I'm really in the butter zone now.

    At ~185lbs (84kg), I was running about 50psi, with the rebound and HSC all the way open. It was a fairly smooth ride, but still seemed like it could be better on small bump, and I felt like the fork wasn't doing as much as it could when I really got into some faster downhill chunk.

    Dropped in IRT and switched to about 40/75psi. Already felt a little smoother, even though the weather was cold, which has always stiffened this fork substantially. Small bump a tiny bit better and I was now using all the travel.

    Have yet to go for a real ride after the new seals and oil change, but initial impressions are that my damping with rebound and HSC a couple clicks in is similar to what it used to be wide open. Fork feels overall more responsive, though stiction was never really an issue before (stock seals were probably as good as the Pike with SKF seals, which were way better than stock RS seals).

    I still can't figure out what the hell to do with the LSC knob, though. I never can decide where I want it...almost have to use it like a climb/descend switch (i.e. go all the way CW or CCW) to really feel a difference, and it's still a bit 'meh'...fork is still a bit soft for climbing (a tradeoff I gladly accept for comfort) yet I feel like going full-soft on descent sacrifices control. (edit to clarify: full LSC doesn't do much and zero LSC is too wallowy, so I generally just run it in the middle and try not to overthink it)
    The right shim stack will let you run with the LSC closed. Then you can use the HSC to move the whole damping curve upwards on demand.

    The compression stack is a fairly complicated one to tune as you have two layers of shims. The lower stack that is always active and the upper stack which can be preloaded by the HSC dials.
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz and NZ Manitou Agent.
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  18. #3218
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    Quote Originally Posted by phuchmileif View Post
    What's the goal with shim stack tweaks? I messed around with it when I was trying to make a Pike RC not suck (...didn't work), but given the functionality of the Mattoc with it's three legit damper adjustments (and IRT), what is anyone looking to gain by modding the shim stack?

    I'm not saying anyone shouldn't- I'm just legit saying that I don't know, and I'm wondering if it's something that would be worth getting into. I'm pretty hardcore into tweaking my stuff, but I've gradually learned to try to leave things alone if I'm not sure what I'm trying to accomplish, lol.

    I'm always down for an improvement. The big thing for me was just getting the adjusters to feel usable...between the new oil/dust seals and a switch to Maxima 3wt, I think I'm really in the butter zone now.

    At ~185lbs (84kg), I was running about 50psi, with the rebound and HSC all the way open. It was a fairly smooth ride, but still seemed like it could be better on small bump, and I felt like the fork wasn't doing as much as it could when I really got into some faster downhill chunk.

    Dropped in IRT and switched to about 40/75psi. Already felt a little smoother, even though the weather was cold, which has always stiffened this fork substantially. Small bump a tiny bit better and I was now using all the travel.

    Have yet to go for a real ride after the new seals and oil change, but initial impressions are that my damping with rebound and HSC a couple clicks in is similar to what it used to be wide open. Fork feels overall more responsive, though stiction was never really an issue before (stock seals were probably as good as the Pike with SKF seals, which were way better than stock RS seals).

    I still can't figure out what the hell to do with the LSC knob, though. I never can decide where I want it...almost have to use it like a climb/descend switch (i.e. go all the way CW or CCW) to really feel a difference, and it's still a bit 'meh'...fork is still a bit soft for climbing (a tradeoff I gladly accept for comfort) yet I feel like going full-soft on descent sacrifices control. (edit to clarify: full LSC doesn't do much and zero LSC is too wallowy, so I generally just run it in the middle and try not to overthink it)
    Manitou does their recommended setup a bit different then most. They suggest setting high speed to control max platform with the low speed.

    https://www.manitoumtb.com/wp-conten...t-up_Guide.pdf

    You really canít compare the reshimming of the Pike to a Mattoc. Most of the issues with the Pike are related to its stock piston and air spring, which no amount of reshimming alone will fix.


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    Riding slowly since 1977.

  19. #3219
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    Hmm, ok. So pushed the bottom part of the compression assembly out from below. Changed the shimstack, put the assembly back together (which went rather difficult since the top cap was quite unwilling to thread in the bottom part). It seemed the balls didn't want to align properly or something. Now the LSC turns counter clock wise perfectly (and will keeping turning CC without an end stop) but clockwise it will only go one click and then it jams.

    So seems there is something going wrong in the assembly of the compression damper, but I have a hard time figuring out what. I did notice that wear was starting to show on the blue shaft where it intersect with the two balls at the red end of the LSC dial at bottom of the top cap.

    EDIT: Ok problem solved, the top cap didn't thread on far enough because the threads were damaged. Problem was that because the top cap separated the two balls were messing up the thread that secures the top cap to the rest of the assembly. I (well actually my wife, she's kinda cool like that) removed the inner red workings of LSC dial inside the top cap (see photo) so we could force the treads straight again without the internals interfering. Then reinstalled the red part into the bottom part together with the blue shaft with the balls in the right position and then you can thread on the top cap again.

    So my advice to anyone who has the top cap loosen unwantedly is to remove the red inner workings from the top cap first, together with the blue shaft reinstall that red inner workings first into bottom section of the comp. damper and then thread the top cap back on. Don't just go screwing the top cap back on or you'll risk messing up your thread (unless Dougal or Mullen suggest otherwise).

    So just managed to save the compression assembly but was a close call.




    PS. I changed the shims to this:

    10x12x0,2
    10x21x0,15
    8x11x0,25
    8x17,5x0,1
    -------------- piston
    10x25x0,15

    Compared to the original the 21mm shim changed from 0.2 to 0.15. So this shim is only 42% stiff as the original. I suspect this stack is still too stiff for her 66kg ride weight. If that's the case I'll probably try the following stack:

    10x12x0,2
    10x21x0,15
    8x12x0,1
    8x12x0,1
    8x17,5x0,1
    8x14x0,1
    -------------- piston
    10x25x0,15

    So basically a slight 0.1mm space under the 17,5mm shim to let it bleed a bit. Not sure if that will turn out correct, but we'll see.

    Also two 8x12x0,1 above the 17,5mm shim to give it some space towards the 21mm shims. Not sure if that's necessary.
    Last edited by CS645; 1 Week Ago at 01:14 PM.

  20. #3220
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    I'm having some issues with my Mattoc.
    On short rides it works pretty well.
    But on longer rides it starts to make a sound and start to get a lot of friction.
    The fork still works but feels harsher.
    Then the next morning when I pull the bike out of the garage its feeling pretty good again.

    I've serviced it recently including replacing damper oil and haven't been able to solve this.

  21. #3221
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    So my recommendation is to always use the lightest oil you can reasonably obtain. Which is about 15 cSt at 40C.

    Note that oils vary hugely from that 40C. The worst I've found gets 7x thicker from 40C to 0C. The best is under 3x thicker. Motorex 2.5wt is about 5x thicker.

    It is better for the damper performance and maintenance to run thinner oil and more compression damping on the top dials. Running thicker oil and the top dials open creates negative pressures inside on fast hits which can suck in air and cause foaming.
    Easy to fix that (oil change), but better to avoid.

    Performance wise thicker oils create too much damping in the piston ports on faster compression which can make the fork harsher. Quadratic, double the shaft speed and get 4x the damping. That's never good.

    I'd suggest you go for Maxima 3wt and dial in more LSC and HSC.
    Thanks a lot, Dougal! Really appreciate all your expertise and patience, on this thread and elsewhere. Question: when I first put the fork back together (Maxima 3wt), I had a new top-out clunk when the tire left the ground (and generally undamped feel). This went away after replacing a little 3wt with 7wt. Did it likely go away because of the added viscosity, or was it something else? (Maybe I didn't adequately bleed it, for example.)

  22. #3222
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    Quote Originally Posted by ac1000 View Post
    I'm having some issues with my Mattoc.
    On short rides it works pretty well.
    But on longer rides it starts to make a sound and start to get a lot of friction.
    The fork still works but feels harsher.
    Then the next morning when I pull the bike out of the garage its feeling pretty good again.

    I've serviced it recently including replacing damper oil and haven't been able to solve this.
    For what it's worth, friends and I have experienced this loss of performance with all forks we have owned--in our experience, it is rider fatigue.

  23. #3223
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    Quote Originally Posted by phile View Post
    Thanks a lot, Dougal! Really appreciate all your expertise and patience, on this thread and elsewhere. Question: when I first put the fork back together (Maxima 3wt), I had a new top-out clunk when the tire left the ground (and generally undamped feel). This went away after replacing a little 3wt with 7wt. Did it likely go away because of the added viscosity, or was it something else? (Maybe I didn't adequately bleed it, for example.)
    Possibly a displaced shim.

    Mrs Dougal is now running an oil so thin it's silly (7cSt at 40C). Rebound is still working properly.
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz and NZ Manitou Agent.
    www.dougal.co.nz Suspension setup & tuning.
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  24. #3224
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    Quote Originally Posted by CS645 View Post
    Hmm, ok. So pushed the bottom part of the compression assembly out from below. Changed the shimstack, put the assembly back together (which went rather difficult since the top cap was quite unwilling to thread in the bottom part). It seemed the balls didn't want to align properly or something. Now the LSC turns counter clock wise perfectly (and will keeping turning CC without an end stop) but clockwise it will only go one click and then it jams.

    So seems there is something going wrong in the assembly of the compression damper, but I have a hard time figuring out what. I did notice that wear was starting to show on the blue shaft where it intersect with the two balls at the red end of the LSC dial at bottom of the top cap.

    EDIT: Ok problem solved, the top cap didn't thread on far enough because the threads were damaged. Problem was that because the top cap separated the two balls were messing up the thread that secures the top cap to the rest of the assembly. I (well actually my wife, she's kinda cool like that) removed the inner red workings of LSC dial inside the top cap (see photo) so we could force the treads straight again without the internals interfering. Then reinstalled the red part into the bottom part together with the blue shaft with the balls in the right position and then you can thread on the top cap again.

    So my advice to anyone who has the top cap loosen unwantedly is to remove the red inner workings from the top cap first, together with the blue shaft reinstall that red inner workings first into bottom section of the comp. damper and then thread the top cap back on. Don't just go screwing the top cap back on or you'll risk messing up your thread (unless Dougal or Mullen suggest otherwise).

    So just managed to save the compression assembly but was a close call.




    PS. I changed the shims to this:

    10x12x0,2
    10x21x0,15
    8x11x0,25
    8x17,5x0,1
    -------------- piston
    10x25x0,15

    Compared to the original the 21mm shim changed from 0.2 to 0.15. So this shim is only 42% stiff as the original. I suspect this stack is still too stiff for her 66kg ride weight. If that's the case I'll probably try the following stack:

    10x12x0,2
    10x21x0,15
    8x12x0,1
    8x12x0,1
    8x17,5x0,1
    8x14x0,1
    -------------- piston
    10x25x0,15

    So basically a slight 0.1mm space under the 17,5mm shim to let it bleed a bit. Not sure if that will turn out correct, but we'll see.

    Also two 8x12x0,1 above the 17,5mm shim to give it some space towards the 21mm shims. Not sure if that's necessary.
    I've had one come apart before and the easiest way to reassemble it was to take it completely apart and reassemble it from the top-cap down. Here's a pic showing some of it apart: https://www.instagram.com/p/BHlBU0Mj...raftsuspension
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz and NZ Manitou Agent.
    www.dougal.co.nz Suspension setup & tuning.
    SPV Devolve

  25. #3225
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    I just bought a Mattoc, and it looks great. However, upon closer inspection the airvalve seems to be partly stripped, or should it be like this?

    Manitou Mattoc-mattoc_nuts.jpg

    Another question, how do I know I have the latest seals?

  26. #3226
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    Quote Originally Posted by knurra View Post

    Another question, how do I know I have the latest seals?
    The latest seals will say "RXWT000255" on them

  27. #3227
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    Possibly a displaced shim.

    Mrs Dougal is now running an oil so thin it's silly (7cSt at 40C). Rebound is still working properly.
    Oh, interesting. Good to know that it still behaves with oil that thin. Whatever it was, it went away, oddly.

  28. #3228
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    EDIT: nevermind, in this case, it turned out to be a loose hexlock QR lever, which I changed over to from the hexlock SL recently! I'll leave my stupidity below in case it helps anyone else down the road.

    --------------

    Hey, has anyone experienced a "knocking" sensation in their mattoc? I have a mattoc 2 pro, and if I hold the front brake and rock the bike back and forth, while holding onto one or the other lower leg, I can feel what feels like the stanchions knocking back and forth inside the lowers.

    My mattoc had this from day one, manitou told me it was bushing slop, so I sent it in for replacement bushings under warranty. It came back unchanged, so I sent it back again and they replaced the lowers the second time. Problem was finally gone, but after about 6 months and maybe 20 rides (I split time between 2 different bikes), it's knocking pretty bad again.

    I can't find anyone else complaining about the same problem so I'm wondering if it's something else. Anyone have any ideas? If it's something I can fix myself, i'd much prefer that over not having the fork for another 2 weeks!
    Last edited by xeren; 1 Week Ago at 05:33 PM.

  29. #3229
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    Quote Originally Posted by xeren View Post
    The latest seals will say "RXWT000255" on them
    Ok, thanks!

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    New review:

    https://nsmb.com/articles/manitou-mattoc-pro-fork/


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
    Riding slowly since 1977.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    I've had one come apart before and the easiest way to reassemble it was to take it completely apart and reassemble it from the top-cap down. Here's a pic showing some of it apart: https://www.instagram.com/p/BHlBU0Mj...raftsuspension
    I wonder if Manitou considered making the compression assembly mount reverse thread. Might prevent this from happening. Now the top cap threads the same direction into the fork as well as into the rest of the compression assembly, making it more likely to unthread inside.

  32. #3232
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    Quote Originally Posted by CS645 View Post
    I wonder if Manitou considered making the compression assembly mount reverse thread. Might prevent this from happening. Now the top cap threads the same direction into the fork as well as into the rest of the compression assembly, making it more likely to unthread inside.
    Reverse thread is a great way to end up with a lot of broken parts. Everyone expects them to unscrew the usual way!

    A little more torque stops them unscrewing. Loctite is optional.
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz and NZ Manitou Agent.
    www.dougal.co.nz Suspension setup & tuning.
    SPV Devolve

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    Great to see pictures of disassembled compression damper. Thanks to that I found that I reversed order of spring and ball to regulate HBO. I asked manitou support in Germany if its the right way and they agreed. It was wrong.
    This all happened because my damper unscrewed during removal, just like what happened to CS645

    Another thing is, my mattoc was getting harsher and harsher over time. I replaced oil, lubed air pistons, installed skf seals, but I was unable to make it plush again. Today I took damper out to reverse the spring and ball (as mentioned above) I spotted that the foam sleeve slipped down and is pushing quite hard to that silver HSC thing. So my platform shims were fully preloaded. Is there any way to avoid this?
    As you can see in the picture, there is a gap between adjustment rod and the silver sleeve.
    Manitou Mattoc-20180118_101839_web.jpg

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    just bought some mattock pro2 (IVA) for my spitfire, anyone got any tuning tips, currently have everything in the middle, weigh around 110kg's loaded so thinking 75psi, coming from x-fusion sweeps (I like to be different) I'd say aggressive riding style from lack of skill / fitness though!

  35. #3235
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cary View Post
    New review:

    https://nsmb.com/articles/manitou-mattoc-pro-fork/


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
    Somebody needs to show that guy how to route his brake cable

  36. #3236
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    Quote Originally Posted by gavstupple View Post
    just bought some mattock pro2 (IVA) for my spitfire, anyone got any tuning tips, currently have everything in the middle, weigh around 110kg's loaded so thinking 75psi, coming from x-fusion sweeps (I like to be different) I'd say aggressive riding style from lack of skill / fitness though!
    Start with what this guy did. And order the IRT.
    https://nsmb.com/articles/manitou-mattoc-pro-fork/
    https://nsmb.com/articles/coil-forks...nitou-irt-air/

  37. #3237
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    Quote Originally Posted by Porch View Post
    Somebody needs to show that guy how to route his brake cable
    That's actually how manitou wants you to route it

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    Quote Originally Posted by ac1000 View Post
    I'm having some issues with my Mattoc.
    On short rides it works pretty well.
    But on longer rides it starts to make a sound and start to get a lot of friction.
    The fork still works but feels harsher.
    Then the next morning when I pull the bike out of the garage its feeling pretty good again.

    I've serviced it recently including replacing damper oil and haven't been able to solve this.
    I opened up the damper after riding and the oil level was high.
    I compressed the fork several times and released a lot of air trapped under the rebound piston and the oil level returned to normal.
    After reassembly a quick ride around showed a fork working ok again.
    I'm assuming this is my problem, that air is getting trapped in the bottom of the damper while riding.

    Do my assumptions make sense?
    Is there a fix or something to check out?

  39. #3239
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    Quote Originally Posted by ac1000 View Post
    I opened up the damper after riding and the oil level was high.
    I compressed the fork several times and released a lot of air trapped under the rebound piston and the oil level returned to normal.
    After reassembly a quick ride around showed a fork working ok again.
    I'm assuming this is my problem, that air is getting trapped in the bottom of the damper while riding.

    Do my assumptions make sense?
    Is there a fix or something to check out?
    Air should not make it's way under the rebound damper from riding. Can't say I have ever came across that before in any form. The oil level is supposed to be well above the ports the compression damper to make sure it doesn't happen.

    The only thing I can think of would be if the rebound damper seal head is allowing it to suck in air. It's the only logical reason this could happen, and the fix would be a new oring. That said, any air that would get sucked in should very quickly make it's way to the top of the damper during riding conditions since any air will rise, so it still doesn't make sense that air would be trapped down low.

    Very odd problem

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    Quote Originally Posted by mullen119 View Post
    That's actually how manitou wants you to route it
    Well crap. Mine sure seemed to want to go straight up the leg to the lever and I've seen other users do that too, but I do get some light rubbing under full compression.

  41. #3241
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    Quote Originally Posted by Porch View Post
    Well crap. Mine sure seemed to want to go straight up the leg to the lever and I've seen other users do that too, but I do get some light rubbing under full compression.
    I have seen a ton a different methods that work, but the routing shown is the way manitou wants it done. Any route that doesn't hit the tire on compression or rub the crown is fine though. Unlike a front facing arch, there is no clear routing.

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    OK, I've read through this and think i'm going to start with +2 on rebound, compression and bottom out as he did but hoping to stick with the IVA, i take it the socket on the top for the iva is what people have troubel with?

  43. #3243
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    This came out a while ago, but it seems like a good time to post it. I haven't been able to be on here as much recently, so it may have been posted and I missed it.

    https://wwwmanitoumtbcom-ct78ltl6iyp...-Arch_revC.pdf

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gZ2F_KizB7E

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