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Thread: Manitou Mattoc

  1. #3101
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    Manitou Mattoc

    $240 Mattoc on the kidís hardtail set to 120mm. Selling the Fox 32 on pinkbike if anyone wants one. I had to walk him through dropping the lowers to shorten and install the fork, since I canít really use my left hand.


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  2. #3102
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    Can I get the Cayenne?
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  3. #3103
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vespasianus View Post
    Can I get the Cayenne?
    6 Speed! Took me a while to find.


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  4. #3104
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    Quote Originally Posted by phile View Post
    Hrmm, just stripped the air-spring nut with a slotted FR5.2--either the nut strips quite easily, or I turned it the wrong direction (got rewired by the previous two clockwise operations??), or I'm just a ham-fisted hack (or some combination of above). Do I have any decent options here? I tried some teflon tape around the cassette tool, but no luck. I've now liberally applied threadlock to the cassette tool while it's sitting in the nut and am letting it dry overnight to see if that adds enough grip to get by. I was patting myself on the back for getting the first two correct. Dumbass.
    Correction, I was using a Park FR1.2. Disaster--the splines are are just tall enough to make it seem like it will work, but it won't, it just strips the nut. Not sure how I decided the FR1.2 was what I needed--I bought it specifically for this task. I was able to cannibalize an old Nashbar cassette tool to salvage the job. Proceed with caution, or suck it up and buy the Manitou kit. The Manitou kit seems overpriced, but a lot of that has to do with severely underpaying for the fork itself.

  5. #3105
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    Quote Originally Posted by phile View Post
    Correction, I was using a Park FR1.2. Disaster--the splines are are just tall enough to make it seem like it will work, but it won't, it just strips the nut. Not sure how I decided the FR1.2 was what I needed--I bought it specifically for this task. I was able to cannibalize an old Nashbar cassette tool to salvage the job. Proceed with caution, or suck it up and buy the Manitou kit. The Manitou kit seems overpriced, but a lot of that has to do with severely underpaying for the fork itself.
    I too nearly used a freewheel tool. I used a regular FR5 (not slotted) and compressed the shaft. It fits over with room to spare. No need to slot it. My 15+ year old cassette tool is not deep enough. You need one of the newer ones.
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  6. #3106
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    Manitou Mattoc

    Quote Originally Posted by Doug View Post
    I too nearly used a freewheel tool. I used a regular FR5 (not slotted) and compressed the shaft. It fits over with room to spare. No need to slot it. My 15+ year old cassette tool is not deep enough. You need one of the newer ones.
    I use the FR5 and prefer it to the Manitou tool which wants to compress and slip on occasion.


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    Last edited by Cary; 3 Days Ago at 12:31 PM.
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  7. #3107
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    After finding the courage to replace the HBO cone with the 27.5 version, the rebound knob become stuck. This happened even before I opened the rebound assembly, just after removing the lowers, placing the spacers on the airside and putting everything back together.
    I have now opened the rebound assembly and replaced the HBO cone, but the rebound adjuster will not turn without excessive force. How could this have happened and do I now need a new rebound assembly (costing one third of the total fork price...) ?

  8. #3108
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    Reattaching the lowers??

    Those of you who can disassemble/reassemble a Mattoc in your sleep--how do you start the threads on the damper side? The spring side is easy because of the air pressure, but my damper rod just wants to spin in place without threading.

  9. #3109
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    Quote Originally Posted by phile View Post
    Those of you who can disassemble/reassemble a Mattoc in your sleep--how do you start the threads on the damper side? The spring side is easy because of the air pressure, but my damper rod just wants to spin in place without threading.
    When you insert the Hex key, tilt it slightly, this will create some friction and will allows you to pull the damper shaft while rotating it counter clock wise, don't forget it, it's counter clock wise. It may took you a couple of times to get the hang of it.

  10. #3110
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aglo View Post
    When you insert the Hex key, tilt it slightly, this will create some friction and will allows you to pull the dumper shaft while rotating it counter clock wise, don't forget it, it's counter clock wise. It may took you a couple of times to get the hang of it.
    It also helps to crank the low and high speed compression shut to get some resistance.


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  11. #3111
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aglo View Post
    When you insert the Hex key, tilt it slightly, this will create some friction and will allows you to pull the damper shaft while rotating it counter clock wise, don't forget it, it's counter clock wise. It may took you a couple of times to get the hang of it.
    Huh, I was indeed trying to do that--I guess I'll get better at it with practice. Thanks.

    Quote Originally Posted by Cary View Post
    It also helps to crank the low and high speed compression shut to get some resistance.

    Oh, good tip! But the knobs are still off, right? Do you set it before disassembly, or put the knobs on temporarily, or what?
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  12. #3112
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cary View Post
    6 Speed! Took me a while to find.


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    That is rare. I have always loved this video of a Cayenne racing a bunch of garbage SUVs on a track. Absolutely hilarious.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cGNKtKAGnYQ
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  13. #3113
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    Quote Originally Posted by mullen119 View Post
    I just got a new bike with a 36 with the fit grip damper. I won't have it long, but I will be giving it some thrashing. Out of the box, it takes significantly more force to initiate movement compared to my mattoc.

    I don't have high hopes, and my performance expectations are significantly higher than an average rider, so we will see.

    I have no plans on riding the fox factory DPS shock at all. That will be replaced before the first ride.

    Mullen?
    I would be really happy about a recommendation from you as you certainly have a comp shimstack for the mattoc which is pretty nailed :-)

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  14. #3114
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    Does anyone know the widest 27.5" tire that fits in the 26" mattoc pro that's converted to 27.5"?

  15. #3115
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    Quote Originally Posted by jjyoung View Post
    Does anyone know the widest 27.5" tire that fits in the 26" mattoc pro that's converted to 27.5"?
    I think it was mentioned that the 26" lowers have a 555 axle to arch, where as the proper 27.5 has a 565 axle to arch. Pics of the 27.5 show a 2.8 tire just clearing it. Losing 10mm of arch clearance will probably be a no-go for plus tires. But not having either in my possession, I cant really comment with certainty.

  16. #3116
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vespasianus View Post
    That is rare. I have always loved this video of a Cayenne racing a bunch of garbage SUVs on a track. Absolutely hilarious.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cGNKtKAGnYQ
    It handles amazingly well for a lifted station wagon. It stinks as an off road vehicle (I donít care what the Porsche weinees think). A great trip car, but I still took my 96 Toyota Land Cruiser with 250k miles to Whistler this summer, a 2000 mile round trip.
    Riding slowly since 1977.

  17. #3117
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    Quote Originally Posted by jjyoung View Post
    Does anyone know the widest 27.5" tire that fits in the 26" mattoc pro that's converted to 27.5"?
    An E13 TRS+ comfortably clears, as does a Maxxis DHF 2.6 (only 2mm wider). Both on 30mm internal rims.


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  18. #3118
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    Quote Originally Posted by jjyoung View Post
    Does anyone know the widest 27.5" tire that fits in the 26" mattoc pro that's converted to 27.5"?
    Not the best pictures but this is my 26" Pro fork with a 27.5 DHF 2.5 on 30mm rims. Plenty of room even with a mud guard, more clearance than the picture shows.
    Manitou Mattoc-img_20171213_092815.jpgManitou Mattoc-img_20171213_092823.jpg

  19. #3119
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    The 26 and 27.5 lowers are the same aren't they?

    My 27.5 has a DHF2.6 with a mudgaurd fitted (29mm iw rim). I can only run super low tread 2.8s (i.e. Rocket Ron, without a mudgaurd) and it's tight.

  20. #3120
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    Quote Originally Posted by phreeky View Post
    The 26 and 27.5 lowers are the same aren't they?
    No, they have different offsets and I assume more clearance at the arch on the 27.5.

  21. #3121
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kartwheel68 View Post
    No, they have different offsets and I assume more clearance at the arch on the 27.5.
    If I Remember correctly, the offset is in the CSU and the lowers are identical. There is no tire clearance diffrence at the crown.

    I will double check, or I'm sure dougal will chime in. Pretty sure I'm correct

  22. #3122
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    Fork offset is in the uppers. So clearance to the crown at bottom-out might differ, but that shouldn't change clearance to the arch.

  23. #3123
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    Yes, that is right, dont know what I was thinking.

  24. #3124
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    Quote Originally Posted by GuitsBoy View Post
    I think it was mentioned that the 26" lowers have a 555 axle to arch, where as the proper 27.5 has a 565 axle to arch. Pics of the 27.5 show a 2.8 tire just clearing it. Losing 10mm of arch clearance will probably be a no-go for plus tires. But not having either in my possession, I cant really comment with certainty.
    No, they're both 555 since the first day ;-) The 27.5 only has 10mm less travel, whereas the 26 offers 170mm stroke

  25. #3125
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    Quote Originally Posted by mullen119 View Post
    If I Remember correctly, the offset is in the CSU and the lowers are identical. There is no tire clearance diffrence at the crown.

    I will double check, or I'm sure dougal will chime in. Pretty sure I'm correct
    Yep, dead right. Lowers are the same for 26" and 27". Difference is 10mm more downtravel (changed with HBO cone and 10mm spacer under bumper) and less crown offset in the 26's.

    Personally I think less crown offset is a good thing.
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  26. #3126
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    Quote Originally Posted by bansaiman View Post
    No, they're both 555 since the first day ;-) The 27.5 only has 10mm less travel, whereas the 26 offers 170mm stroke
    Yeah, after thinking about it, that number must have been axle to crown, not axle to arch. So the extra travel being the difference would make sense.

  27. #3127
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    Quote Originally Posted by mullen119 View Post
    If I Remember correctly, the offset is in the CSU and the lowers are identical. There is no tire clearance diffrence at the crown.

    I will double check, or I'm sure dougal will chime in. Pretty sure I'm correct

    Would be really grateful about an answer and info from you about the optimized shimstack ;-)

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