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Thread: Manitou Mattoc

  1. #2501
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    Quote Originally Posted by mullen119 View Post
    No comment....
    Ha, very nice. If I can afford a new bike in the future, fork choice will be easy!

  2. #2502
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    Quote Originally Posted by nashwillis View Post
    Attachment 1142444

    I watched the video and wrote down instructions and still turned the wrong way at first.
    If you can get something - anything - to bite into it and turn it out then yeah, a new damper assembly is the damage. Because it needs to be turned clock-wise, the usual screw extractor solutions will not work. A large self-tapping screw perhaps? You'd have to take the tip of the screw off to give it a chance though. There are definitely ways you could get that out without hacking the fork to pieces, however it comes down to your own personal abilities and some creativity.

    The main issue I have with this design is that most people - even those normally careful with torque settings etc - when putting these back together is they don't have the tools to torque them back up correctly. You either need a torque wrench that works in reverse (most torque wrenches do not) or get creative with a crowfoot wrench.

  3. #2503
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiny View Post
    Bad news, I have been down the same path. My issue was the Allen key slipped and rounded it out. Could not get a purchase on the foot nut to undo it and ended up angle grinding the end of my fork off! Had to buy new rebound assembly as the footnut is part of this and new lowers.

    If you can get something on the footnut and to get it undone you may be able to save the lowers and just need a new rebound assembly.

    When I had the issue Manitou didn't provide any hint or tips, just gave me a list of part numbers.
    If I am able to get it off where is the best place to get lowers or rebound assembly? Anyone have old ones for sale?

  4. #2504
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    I'm also looking for some spare parts. My air piston (don't know the name, see it on CRC named as compression rod) was also wormed out because I tried to turn the wrong way.
    It seems to be hard to find this parts ....


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  5. #2505
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    Quote Originally Posted by phreeky View Post
    If you can get something - anything - to bite into it and turn it out then yeah, a new damper assembly is the damage. Because it needs to be turned clock-wise, the usual screw extractor solutions will not work. A large self-tapping screw perhaps? You'd have to take the tip of the screw off to give it a chance though. There are definitely ways you could get that out without hacking the fork to pieces, however it comes down to your own personal abilities and some creativity.

    The main issue I have with this design is that most people - even those normally careful with torque settings etc - when putting these back together is they don't have the tools to torque them back up correctly. You either need a torque wrench that works in reverse (most torque wrenches do not) or get creative with a crowfoot wrench.
    I thought I had it turned all the way counter clockwise, loose, and could not get the lowers off. Could damage to the rebound be the cause? Do I need to hammer it out?

  6. #2506
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    Quote Originally Posted by nashwillis View Post
    If I am able to get it off where is the best place to get lowers or rebound assembly? Anyone have old ones for sale?
    Quote Originally Posted by Samos View Post
    I'm also looking for some spare parts. My air piston (don't know the name, see it on CRC named as compression rod) was also wormed out because I tried to turn the wrong way.
    It seems to be hard to find this parts ....


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    I have purchased parts from Chain Reaction Cycles in the past and of course Dougal on here through his business Shockcraft.

  7. #2507
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    Quote Originally Posted by nashwillis View Post
    I thought I had it turned all the way counter clockwise, loose, and could not get the lowers off. Could damage to the rebound be the cause? Do I need to hammer it out?
    On my Mattoc I simply had to undo each side and then a hand on each lower leg and pull. Nothing at all like the Rockshox I've done where you leave a bolt in and give it a tap (or really old Rockshox that have never been serviced where you hammer the crap out of them).

  8. #2508
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiny View Post
    I have purchased parts from Chain Reaction Cycles in the past and of course Dougal on here through his business Shockcraft.
    Thanks, of course CRC but they don't have this part anymore. Dougal is just the farest possible from Switzerland where I leave.

  9. #2509
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    Quote Originally Posted by Samos View Post
    Thanks, of course CRC but they don't have this part anymore. Dougal is just the farest possible from Switzerland where I leave.
    Post works around the world these days....

  10. #2510
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    Quote Originally Posted by Samos View Post
    Thanks, of course CRC but they don't have this part anymore. Dougal is just the farest possible from Switzerland where I leave.
    Dampers on CRC, no expert model in 27.5 in stock:

    mattoc+damperÂ* | Chain Reaction Cycles

    Mattoc lowers:

    Manitou Mattoc Lower Legs 2015 | Chain Reaction Cycles

  11. #2511
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiny View Post
    Dampers on CRC, no expert model in 27.5 in stock:

    mattoc+damperÂ* | Chain Reaction Cycles

    Mattoc lowers:

    Manitou Mattoc Lower Legs 2015 | Chain Reaction Cycles
    The only difference between the wheel sizes are the HBO cones, which should be able to be reused from the existing damper when removed.

  12. #2512
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiny View Post
    Nick from Manitou just posted this on Instagram, unmarked fork but tagged as Mattoc, not sure if the angle but do they look like 29 wheels?

    https://www.instagram.com/p/BVaQr30B...-by=manitou_nc
    A lot of guys lusting after 29" Mattoc. Not sure why I'm giving this so much attention....
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz and NZ Manitou Agent.
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  13. #2513
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    Quote Originally Posted by Samos View Post
    Thanks, of course CRC but they don't have this part anymore. Dougal is just the farest possible from Switzerland where I leave.
    We send to Switzerland. I can't think of a country we haven't posted to. Even Uzbekistan has had an order.
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz and NZ Manitou Agent.
    www.dougal.co.nz Suspension setup & tuning.
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  14. #2514
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    A lot of guys lusting after 29" Mattoc. Not sure why I'm giving this so much attention....
    Doesn't look like it to me, less that's an XL...I'm definitely seeing what looks like a new chassis with a different offset? Looks near zero offset
    ...

  15. #2515
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    Quote Originally Posted by J: View Post
    Doesn't look like it to me, less that's an XL...I'm definitely seeing what looks like a new chassis with a different offset? Looks near zero offset
    Nick might have put the crown in backwards for a laugh.

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  16. #2516
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    Nick might have put the crown in backwards for a laugh.

    Sent with 100% recycled electrons.
    I hit pause after a couple seconds (when I saw the low resolution), now I gotta take a closer look
    ...

  17. #2517
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    twas an accident but...

    I've installed the reverse arch backwards...too funny:^)
    ...

  18. #2518
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    Quote Originally Posted by phreeky View Post
    On my Mattoc I simply had to undo each side and then a hand on each lower leg and pull. Nothing at all like the Rockshox I've done where you leave a bolt in and give it a tap (or really old Rockshox that have never been serviced where you hammer the crap out of them).
    I had turned it counter clockwise as far as it would go and still couldn't get them off, maybe I turned it too hard.

    I will sell my brand new mattoc cheap if anyone is interested I am tired of messing with it.

  19. #2519
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    Quote Originally Posted by nashwillis View Post
    I had turned it counter clockwise as far as it would go and still couldn't get them off, maybe I turned it too hard.

    I will sell my brand new mattoc cheap if anyone is interested I am tired of messing with it.
    Turn clockwise to remove......

  20. #2520
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    Quote Originally Posted by nashwillis View Post
    I had turned it counter clockwise as far as it would go and still couldn't get them off, maybe I turned it too hard.

    I will sell my brand new mattoc cheap if anyone is interested I am tired of messing with it.

    Yes, as boom said, on this fork turn clockwise to remove. The mattoc is the absolute simplest fork to work on.
    On MTBR, the reputation is infamous.

  21. #2521
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vespasianus View Post
    Yes, as boom said, on this fork turn clockwise to remove. The mattoc is the absolute simplest fork to work on.
    I meant clockwise, I have it turned as far clockwise as I could go and probably put more force than needed turning clockwise its stripped now.
    It was pretty hard to tune too, not sure if that's normal.

  22. #2522
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    Quote Originally Posted by nashwillis View Post
    I meant clockwise, I have it turned as far clockwise as I could go and probably put more force than needed turning clockwise its stripped now.
    It was pretty hard to tune too, not sure if that's normal.
    I'll take your ****ed mattoc off your hands for a disgraceful price.

  23. #2523
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    Naw, it's not installed backwards (and sure as hell doesn't look twatie9), just watched that vid
    ...

  24. #2524
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    Quote Originally Posted by thedrizzle View Post
    I'll take your ****ed mattoc off your hands for a disgraceful price.
    Send me a pm with a price if interested.

  25. #2525
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    If I have a mattoc expert can I just buy a pro rebound damper and swap it out?

  26. #2526
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    Quote Originally Posted by nashwillis View Post
    If I have a mattoc expert can I just buy a pro rebound damper and swap it out?
    Afraid not.
    The HBO cone on the compression damper slots onto the rebound damper.
    Pro and expert have different diameter HBO cones.
    So you have to have the pro compression damper also.

  27. #2527
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stratus View Post
    Completely compress the fork, let all air out of course. As you've probably found out, when sticking the 4mm hex in the air escapes and you push in the compression rod (air shaft), so the thread doesn't engage. When compressing it you can engage the threads, just do it up a few turns and whilst extending it depress the valve so you can actually extend the lowers, and you don't pull a vacuum on the lowers by letting some air past the threads. When at full travel you can turn it the rest of the way (3.5-4.5Nm).
    I didn't have the right cassette tool for the seal heads, so I ended up ordering the tool kit from CRC last Friday, and it arrived today, not bad for the cheapest shipping option. Strange that it shipped from Spain though...

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