magura thor oil question
Ok so i cant find any shop that stocks blood type 5 or its not in stock for another 2 weeks so i need a replacement .
I went to my LBS where he said he used mainly 7.5w oil for lube in the lower legs and he said it would be ok to use in mine but i would need to replace the oil in the air chamber also . I told him that i read on the web that the oil is thicker on the magura thors as they are semi bath so he then said that 10w would be plenty and it wouldn`t need anything much higher.
My question is would motorex fork oil 10w be ok as a replacement in the thor`s??
Ive also heard of people using 5w30 synthetic motor oil in the lowers with no problems other than it can foam up but as its just a lube and not for the damper its ok.
I had the same questions
See attached file from Magura
Type 5 is much thicker..... more like 30w or higher.. no direct SAE number...
You should be able to find anything you need including the suspension oils from our Web Store.
Type 5 is closer to a single viscosity 60 wt.
Anything less in viscosity rating will seep past the seals quicker, especially when hot!
Multi viscosity motor oil is not recommended at all for many reasons fyi. Firstly , suspension fluids are always mineral based and motor oil is not.
Thanks for riding Thor!
My question is: what viscosity is Type 2 oil?
Also, I'm trying to check if there is enough susp. oil in RIGHT (Albert Select) leg of my '09 Wotan
From the link above it says that the Filling Height is 110mm (170ml of oil)
Quote: "Filling height measured from stanchion tube end in crown to oil surface with rebound piston rod fully extended without assembled lower leg".
Does it mean that the fork must be fully extended (longest travel) to measure that?
How exactly is it done? How do you remove the BLUE on/off knob?
Ok, Type 2 is a 5 wt viscosity.
As for checking oil height, It's best to remove the lowers so the negative spring in the air chamber side doesn't affect the measurement. The negative spring is designed to slightly compress the travel and will not allow the fork to fully extend with out the lowers removed.
The blue cap simply pops off and is held on by an o-ring. Gently pry the blue albert select knob off and then use a 28 mm socket to remove the Albert Select unit in order to measure the oil height.
With the lowers removed and the AS side or the rebound damper side fully extended, then measure the distance from the stanchion's very top (where it is pressed into the crown) down to the oil and the starting distance is 110 mm.
Otherwise you will need to drain all of the oil and pump it out from the circuits and then refill with 170 cc of new Type 2.
Good luck and let me know if we can help further.
Thanks for the reply i ended up using some fox float fluid its 80wt as my lbs said it was the closest thing to blood type 5.
Is this ok in the fork as its a anti friction lube??
You should be fine with that, I just can't officially approve anyone else's fluid beside our for reasons stated previously. Fox makes quality stuff but we don't know what is in it, nor have we tested it.
Those are some great answers!!!
Didn't mean to steal this thread, just thought my questions would be related.
Found this great article: mbaction.com/Main/News/_How_To_Keep_Your_Magura_Fork_Sliding_Smoothly_379 4.aspx
I followed the instructions given by Jude, exept I put 10ml of Phil Wood's Tenacious Oil in each of the lowers of my Wotan.
THE ONLY PROBLEM is that after I put everything back together the Golden Knob on AS unit won't turn at all neither way (it looks like it's stuck at its fimest position), the Blue on/off knob works fine actuating the platform, What happened???
Yeah thanks for the input jude its nice to have someone to get answers from and just to report back the forks are working great
The only thing I would never go along with is 2.5cc of semi-bath oil. That is so little oil it's rididculous. If you use good seals (Enduros) you can run 15cc in each lower leg. My personal feeling is the amount of recommended oil was adjusted down to compensate for sub-par seals. This is not to knock Magura, just the original seals. I love my Magura Marta SL brakes and may give the new Thor a try. A good friend has a Wotan that I was impressed with. For the record, I rebuilt that fork with Enduros and put 15cc of oil in each lower leg almost a year ago with no leaks and very smooth performance.
I have put some new fox seals and foam rings in and added 11cc of oil in each leg to allow the foam seals to soak up some oil. After this mod i have had no or very minimal oil leaking on to the stanchions .
I like the idea of self cleaning seals and they do show how much muk get on the legs but they did use to much oil to quick and needed topping up."mine are the 2009 thors"
As i service my forks often it was not a problem but couldn`t get hold of any blood type 5 at the time so thats why i used the fox fluid. As a note after using the fox fluid i have reduced the psi needed for my weigh from 75-63 and sag has been reduced.
Anyway im happy with them and servicing them is very easy and a sigh of a good design
Last edited by wils07; 06-23-2011 at 06:59 AM.
Hey its a pleasure supporting my team!
So the gold knob isn't moving eh? Strange.
Usually I would suspect a bent shaft but not necessarily in your case since I assume it was working fine prior to you servicing of the fork.
Did you use a different or thicker compression and damping fluid possibly?
On the Albert Select cartridge, there are (2) 2 mm set screws located on the very side of the 28 mm head that control two things. The first one and obvious one controls the amount of sweep the blue knob will rotate (1/4 turn) and the deeper one located behind the first (in other words, you must remove the first to get to the second) pinches the alloy shaft that controls the compression valve adjustments.
I would remove this AS cartridge and inspect these areas.
... and thanks to wils07 and chris2fur for your input and help.
You are correct that initially 2.5 cc of lube was too little and we adjusted our recommendations to 5-7 cc in each lower leg depending on your area as far as how arid or humid etc.
The original seals were designed to keep the stanchions moist but as you well know, no one liked this so we totally re-designed the seals.
I have tested the Enduro seals and liked them but found them to be a bit tight which causes a too much stiction and took a very long time to break in. They did keep fluid in and dirt out however!
Thanks again for flying the flag gents!
Just wanted to say thanks for the help with this information. I have a 2008 Thor and was looking for information on service and maintenance on this. Most insightful. Even found your Mountain Bike Action blip on this service. Nice job.
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