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  1. #1
    "El Whatever"
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    Magura Phaon Service Instructions

    Working on Phaons is an easy job.

    Flight Control Side

    1.- With a 1.5mm Allen wrench, remove the gold knob of Flight Control
    2.- Take off the lower assembly off the crown by loosening the 6 crown bolts with a 5mm Allen wrench
    3.- With a 27mm spanner (or adjustable wrench) remove the topcap of the flight control side. You'll get the topcap along with the brass shaft that activates the core of the Flight Control. At this point you have easy access to the spring. The standard one on that side is soft, if I remember well.
    4.- Remove the foot bolt on the Flight Control side with a 6mm Allen wrench.
    5.- Pull off the stanchion along with the Flight Control Assembly. Clean everything.
    6.- Grease the lowers inside with the bushings and seals. Liberally.
    7.- Insert the stanchion, taking care of pushing the stanchion evenly into the seals. Otherwise you may nick them. Don't spook it's an easy job. Just be careful, not hamfisted.
    8.- Push the piston all the way down and with an allen wrench or something pointed, guide the Flight Control's assembly bottom and thread in the foot bolt.
    9.- Tighten foot bolt at specified torque (see manual).
    10.- Insert whatever spring (or no spring) you want in there and pull the stanchion ALL THE WAY UP. You'll have some resistance. The seals all around the fork are air tight and you'll be fighting the vacuum as you pull the stanchion up. "Piercing" the piston's hex hole with the Flight Control's brass hex rod helps a bit. The other way to do this is not to tighten the foot bolt fully, so the seal the foot bolt has don't get in the way and allow air to go in.
    11.- Put back topcap at specified torque.
    12.- Refit lowers to crown, following Manual's Instructions.

    If you want to replace the grease for oil (I've found out that this makes the fork plain stupid plush, but it may void your warranty), at step 5, clean perfectly the grease off all the innards. Then with the stanchion in, but not fully seated against the lowers, pour in about 40cc's of oil (10wt or the 5wt used on the other side are good to go). Carefully, push the piston all the way in and install and tighten the foot bolt. Oil will want to squirt, to work with the fork upsidedown. Then, before closing the fork by putting in the topcap, pour 5cc's on top of the piston.

    For the damping side.... this gets interesting, but still easy.

    1.- Remove lowers off from fork.
    2.- Remove rebound dial by using a flat bladed screw driver and pushing it up.
    3.- Pull off with some pliers, the compression knob.
    4.- With the 27mm spanner, remove topcap and slide stanchion into the lowers
    5.- With a 9mm spanner, hold the flat on the golden shaft (spring will get in your way, you'll have to fight it a bit) while you insert a 8mm allen wrench into the hex socket left by the rebound dial at the topcap. Turn the allen wrench counterclockwise while you hold the shaft steady with the 9mm spanner. Be careful!!!! The topcap comes off along with the rebound dial shaft. At this point you can swap springs here too... THIS LEG HAS ALWAYS TO HAVE A SPRING IN THERE, NO MATTER WHAT!!!!
    6.- Get the spring off your way. Keep any spacers found below the topcap.
    7.- With a 6mm Allen wrench, remove the foot nut (the one you removed the compression dial off). Oil will pour out at this stage. Put a bucket beneath to collect oil. Dispose it properly.
    8.- Pull off the cartridge, cycle it a few times to remove any oil left in there. More oil will come off.
    9.- Pull off the stanchion. Clean all parts perfectly with a lint free rag. Put stanchion back in when clean as indicated before for Flight Control's side. If you degreased parts, lube the seals with some light assembly grease.
    10.- Put cartridge in.
    11.- Put and tighten the foot bolt. It will not come up to specified torque unless you happen to use an impact (air driven) wrench. The reson is that there is a seal below the cartridge and the cartridge will spin before getting tight. Fortunately, the torque needed to keep this seal doing its job is very little and there's enough engagement between the foot bolt and cartridge to ensure the bolt will not come off loose and/or strip the threads of the cartridge.
    12.- Pour in 135cc's of 5wt oil... or whatever grade you want to put in there. (please doublecheck the Oil Volume tables, as I'm only like 80% sure about the 135cc figure)
    13.- Reassemble topcap and rebound shaft onto cartridge's shaft.
    14.- Reassemble topcap to stanchion.
    15.- Refit Refit lowers to crown, following Manual's Instructions.


    It's easier than it sounds... I just went thru all the details I went thru while working on my fork.

    I hope someone founds it useful!
    Cheers!
    Warp
    Check my Site

  2. #2
    No known cure
    Reputation: Vader's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Warp
    Working on Phaons is an easy job.

    Flight Control Side

    1.- With a 1.5mm Allen wrench, remove the gold knob of Flight Control
    2.- Take off the lower assembly off the crown by loosening the 6 crown bolts with a 5mm Allen wrench
    3.- With a 27mm spanner (or adjustable wrench) remove the topcap of the flight control side. You'll get the topcap along with the brass shaft that activates the core of the Flight Control. At this point you have easy access to the spring. The standard one on that side is soft, if I remember well.
    4.- Remove the foot bolt on the Flight Control side with a 6mm Allen wrench.
    5.- Pull off the stanchion along with the Flight Control Assembly. Clean everything.
    6.- Grease the lowers inside with the bushings and seals. Liberally.
    7.- Insert the stanchion, taking care of pushing the stanchion evenly into the seals. Otherwise you may nick them. Don't spook it's an easy job. Just be careful, not hamfisted.
    8.- Push the piston all the way down and with an allen wrench or something pointed, guide the Flight Control's assembly bottom and thread in the foot bolt.
    9.- Tighten foot bolt at specified torque (see manual).
    10.- Insert whatever spring (or no spring) you want in there and pull the stanchion ALL THE WAY UP. You'll have some resistance. The seals all around the fork are air tight and you'll be fighting the vacuum as you pull the stanchion up. "Piercing" the piston's hex hole with the Flight Control's brass hex rod helps a bit. The other way to do this is not to tighten the foot bolt fully, so the seal the foot bolt has don't get in the way and allow air to go in.
    11.- Put back topcap at specified torque.
    12.- Refit lowers to crown, following Manual's Instructions.

    If you want to replace the grease for oil (I've found out that this makes the fork plain stupid plush, but it may void your warranty), at step 5, clean perfectly the grease off all the innards. Then with the stanchion in, but not fully seated against the lowers, pour in about 40cc's of oil (10wt or the 5wt used on the other side are good to go). Carefully, push the piston all the way in and install and tighten the foot bolt. Oil will want to squirt, to work with the fork upsidedown. Then, before closing the fork by putting in the topcap, pour 5cc's on top of the piston.

    For the damping side.... this gets interesting, but still easy.

    1.- Remove lowers off from fork.
    2.- Remove rebound dial by using a flat bladed screw driver and pushing it up.
    3.- Pull off with some pliers, the compression knob.
    4.- With the 27mm spanner, remove topcap and slide stanchion into the lowers
    5.- With a 9mm spanner, hold the flat on the golden shaft (spring will get in your way, you'll have to fight it a bit) while you insert a 8mm allen wrench into the hex socket left by the rebound dial at the topcap. Turn the allen wrench counterclockwise while you hold the shaft steady with the 9mm spanner. Be careful!!!! The topcap comes off along with the rebound dial shaft. At this point you can swap springs here too... THIS LEG HAS ALWAYS TO HAVE A SPRING IN THERE, NO MATTER WHAT!!!!
    6.- Get the spring off your way. Keep any spacers found below the topcap.
    7.- With a 6mm Allen wrench, remove the foot nut (the one you removed the compression dial off). Oil will pour out at this stage. Put a bucket beneath to collect oil. Dispose it properly.
    8.- Pull off the cartridge, cycle it a few times to remove any oil left in there. More oil will come off.
    9.- Pull off the stanchion. Clean all parts perfectly with a lint free rag. Put stanchion back in when clean as indicated before for Flight Control's side. If you degreased parts, lube the seals with some light assembly grease.
    10.- Put cartridge in.
    11.- Put and tighten the foot bolt. It will not come up to specified torque unless you happen to use an impact (air driven) wrench. The reson is that there is a seal below the cartridge and the cartridge will spin before getting tight. Fortunately, the torque needed to keep this seal doing its job is very little and there's enough engagement between the foot bolt and cartridge to ensure the bolt will not come off loose and/or strip the threads of the cartridge.
    12.- Pour in 135cc's of 5wt oil... or whatever grade you want to put in there. (please doublecheck the Oil Volume tables, as I'm only like 80% sure about the 135cc figure)
    13.- Reassemble topcap and rebound shaft onto cartridge's shaft.
    14.- Reassemble topcap to stanchion.
    15.- Refit Refit lowers to crown, following Manual's Instructions.


    It's easier than it sounds... I just went thru all the details I went thru while working on my fork.

    I hope someone founds it useful!
    Cheers!
    Warp
    Thanks Warp. I was going to grab some beer and tear mine down tommorow night. Perfect timing! one question though. Does the Flight Control need to be fully extended, wound all the way down, or does it matter?
    Ripping trails and tipping ales

  3. #3
    "El Whatever"
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vader
    Thanks Warp. I was going to grab some beer and tear mine down tommorow night. Perfect timing! one question though. Does the Flight Control need to be fully extended, wound all the way down, or does it matter?
    Do it with the FC extended. Otherwise, when you separate both legs off the crown, the damping (right) leg will pop up hard.

    One more thing, maybe you already noticed it, but I think it's worth mentioning....

    When you have both legs out the crown, the damping leg will extend more than the FC leg. This is normal. The FC leg has a negative spring (under the piston head, hard to reach or see) that pulls it down a bit. Don't freak out. When everything is bolted up, the fork goes back to normal. It doesn't eats travel or anything.

    Good luck!!!
    Check my Site

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Warp
    Do it with the FC extended. Otherwise, when you separate both legs off the crown, the damping (right) leg will pop up hard.

    One more thing, maybe you already noticed it, but I think it's worth mentioning....

    When you have both legs out the crown, the damping leg will extend more than the FC leg. This is normal. The FC leg has a negative spring (under the piston head, hard to reach or see) that pulls it down a bit. Don't freak out. When everything is bolted up, the fork goes back to normal. It doesn't eats travel or anything.

    Good luck!!!
    One more question. When you say to pull off the compression knob with pliers, do you mean the small blue knob on the bottom of the right leg(when standing over the bike?)
    Ripping trails and tipping ales

  5. #5
    "El Whatever"
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vader
    One more question. When you say to pull off the compression knob with pliers, do you mean the small blue knob on the bottom of the right leg(when standing over the bike?)
    Yup, precisely... it's held in place by two spring-loaded steel balls and an o-ring. Just pull it out with some nose pliers. You can take it off by hand, but it'll be a chore.

    I forgot to mention... to put back the rebound dial, just press it in place. It'll snap in rather hardly, but it'll do. It always takes me a couple tries to get it put back in.

    Have you liked yours?
    I liked mine very much. I already sold it away as I got an AM1... but getting the AM1 only revealed me how good was the Phaon. The AM1 is better, but the Phaon is a great fork!
    Check my Site

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Warp
    Yup, precisely... it's held in place by two spring-loaded steel balls and an o-ring. Just pull it out with some nose pliers. You can take it off by hand, but it'll be a chore.

    I forgot to mention... to put back the rebound dial, just press it in place. It'll snap in rather hardly, but it'll do. It always takes me a couple tries to get it put back in.

    Have you liked yours?
    I liked mine very much. I already sold it away as I got an AM1... but getting the AM1 only revealed me how good was the Phaon. The AM1 is better, but the Phaon is a great fork!
    I really like this fork but wish it had more travel. My frame has both 5 and 6 inch travel settings but I don't use the 5 inch setting and I want a balanced ride. The head angle is just too steep for faster riding with a 5 inch fork and higher BB in the 6 inch setting . If the Phaon had 150mm of travel, I would leave it on the bike but I'm looking at a AM1 also. I have a Quasi Moto frame stashed under the bed waiting for a fork, so that's where the Phaon will go next. But not anytime soon as there's been way too much FedEx and UPS traffic at the house, and the missus is starting to raise an eyebrow Especially since I'm supposed to be selling stuff, not buying more.
    Ripping trails and tipping ales

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