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  1. #1
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    Initial opinion of 2011 FOX 32 FLOAT 140 RLC FIT

    I just mounted a 2011 FOX 32 FLOAT 140 RLC FIT on my Ibis Mojo SL and I'd have to say I'm somewhat disappointed in the performance right out of the box. Obviously these things have to be fined tuned, so maybe you all could point out what I'm doing wrong.

    The plan was to set the fork up more towards the All Mountain, plusher mode rather than the pure XC, stiffer mode. Then I would use the lockout as a platform for those occasions when I wanted something a bit more racer. For actual races (like maybe 5 times a year), I would bump the sag up a bit.

    This fork is replacing a Manitou Minute MRD that was deemed somewhat unreliable. So, I'm comparing the fork to that and a Talas I had recently. I've got a SID SL 100 on my hardtail, but the SID is not really in the same class.

    BTW ...I way about 165 LBS (175 with gear and hydration back) and consider myself to be a smooth rider, but do like to throw the back around a bit.

    I set the Sag as instructed by Fox at 72 PSI to achieve 30 mm of sag. With the bike set up like this, I have already got what appears to be full travel out of the fork. I didn't actually measure it, but the ziptie was pushed nearly all the way up after front wheel landing a decent size jump. I would say the travel and smoothness of the stroke are on par with the MRD and way better than the Talas or SID (of course).

    I cannot detect any difference in fork stiffness between this fork, the Talas or the Minute MRD.

    Note: I immediately notice the bike sits up a bit higher, so I adjust the seat tilt ever so slightly and move the seat forward about a half centimeter.

    In the factory setting, the rebound seemed a bit too fast. To be honest, I have not had problems with rebound on any fork made after maybe 1995 and this was no different after I slowed it down a few clicks.

    The low speed compression leaves a lot to be desired. All the way open or all the way closed, I can barely detect any difference. The forks small bump compliance is awful compared to the MRD and Talas and even the SID SL pumped up racer boy stiff.

    The lockout works flawlessly. Again, I cannot remember a fork where the lockout din't work consistently well all the back to maybe a 1998 SID SL that had the occasion issue.

    The lockout force adjust also had no affect at all. I tried it all the way open, all the way closed and several in between positions and I could not get the lockout to blow off. Trust me, I gave it my all on a 4 or 5 foot drop. Nothin!

    Could the low speed compression and lock out force adjuster be related?

    Tomorrow, I'm going to try setting the sag even lower to see if I can get the lockout to behave like a platform.

    Some people say these forks have to be broken in a bit, so I'm hoping that is the case with this one.

  2. #2
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    The fork needs to break in a little bit. My 2011 32 Float RLC 150 took a few rides to break in. That should explain your lack of small bump compliance and low speed compression harshness.

  3. #3
    The Ancient One
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    I got a 2011 TALAS 150 RLC last fall. I loved it out of the box.

    The thing that particularly struck me about it was how great the range of adjustment on the low speed compression is. Set down low it's too plush. At the other extreme it's almost a lock out.

    Your fork apparently differs.
    "Don't criticize what you can't understand."

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by wheatgerm
    The fork needs to break in a little bit. My 2011 32 Float RLC 150 took a few rides to break in. That should explain your lack of small bump compliance and low speed compression harshness.
    After the second ride, I can detect a bit more small bump compliance. No luck on the platform blow off. I guess 5 hours is just not quite enough time to break it in ...plus its been cold here.

  5. #5
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    Need to ride it a lot more. Forks need 20-30 of good ridding to break them in.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vespasianus
    Need to ride it a lot more. Forks need 20-30 of good ridding to break them in.
    +1

    I have a 2011 Float 120 RLC and I love it the more I ride it. It finally feels like it's broken in, now I have to back off some of the rebound because it feels a bit jackhammer-ish.

    While it took a while for it to break in as opposed to the Van, it's a great fork. I've been pretty impressed with the 2011 forks. They really are a huge improvement compared to previous years.
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  7. #7
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    +2 for two FIT forks. needs lots of break-in time. it should butter up (out?).
    Civilization ends at the waterline. Beyond that, we all enter the food chain, and not always right at the top.

  8. #8
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    After initial disappointment I changed oil bath oil on my 150 RLC FIT after couple of hours and it improved things very much. There was not enough oil anyway so I'd recommend checking this immediately.

    Now after about 5 hours riding after the oil change the action seems to be still improving.

  9. #9
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    Not enough oil is a common thing, and I recommend a rebuild out of the box. Since the FIT damper is sealed, use Mobil 1 5w-20 motor oil as your bath oil in both legs.

  10. #10
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    It's amazing what swapping out a Bontrager Jones XCR 2.2 (got it free, didn't love it; didn't hate it) for a Continental X-King RaceSport 2.4 will do for the small bump compliance. I ran both at about 22 PSI ...if your interested.

  11. #11
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    Ok ...these forks do eventually break in

  12. #12
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    I've got a 36 Float RC2 ridden for about 40 hours. I replaced semi bath and air piston oil at 30 hours. Stiction in the parking lot is pretty bad still. But once on the trail I don't notice it as much. Can't get the last inch of travel. That last part about not getting full travel I expect from a fox, but the stiction is just bs.

  13. #13
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    I've had my 2011 float 140 rlc for almost a year now, and I have changed oil in the lowers twice and I still cannot get full travel. Missing that last inch of travel.
    If I let all the air out, I can compress it all the way down. I don't get it.

    Any fixes out there?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tree View Post
    Any fixes out there?
    Yes.

    Fox air forks - Modifying volume to get full travel?

    I've done it myself several times, and it works very well.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tree View Post
    I've had my 2011 float 140 rlc for almost a year now, and I have changed oil in the lowers twice and I still cannot get full travel. Missing that last inch of travel.
    If I let all the air out, I can compress it all the way down. I don't get it.

    Any fixes out there?
    Let your air pressure down. I wouldn't mod a 2011 fork. By all accounts they are much more linear than the 08 models which the mod was based on.My 2011 F29 100 certainly is.

    I'm 170 lbs and ride about 50 to 55 psi on 09 Float 140 and other fox forks. I get close to full travel on all of them. Many do the same. Can't remember what sag that is but probably around 25 to 30%.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by gvs_nz View Post
    Let your air pressure down. I wouldn't mod a 2011 fork. By all accounts they are much more linear than the 08 models which the mod was based on.My 2011 F29 100 certainly is.

    I'm 170 lbs and ride about 50 to 55 psi on 09 Float 140 and other fox forks. I get close to full travel on all of them. Many do the same. Can't remember what sag that is but probably around 25 to 30%.
    Once the fork is modded, it's very easy to adjust the progression by adding or removing oil from the air chamber. If you do the mod and decide you don't like it, you can always undo it by adding 1cc of oil for each mm you cut from the air shaft.

  17. #17
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    I'll post this question here as I'm not into searching back to find a more relevant thread.

    I've got a '11 Talas 36 RLC. Been riding it for a year and its pretty good. My main complaint is I like how plush it is with low compression but then I have too much brake dive. If I up the compression to lessen brake dive then the fork rides too harsh.

    I'm probably going to go with a Float conversion soon. Question is if I add more fluid to make fork more progressive, will I be able to lower air pressure to make it more small bump compliant and with it being more progressive will I have less brake dive?

    This goes for both Talas and Float.

    Also, I've talked to PUSH about what they can do on the RLC forks and they say they can't really do anything on them. The only mod they do is use lower weight oil. What does this do?

  18. #18
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    Bad mechanic will be able to add more.
    Lower oil weight is similar to reshimming your fork and lowers all high, low speed compression and rebound. You can then tune back low speed compression and rebound with the adjusters leaving you with lower high speed compression setting.
    Push may feel high speed compression shims are limiting fork travel. In this case you can use lower weight oil, higher air pressure and and possibly higher low speed compression to balance out fork dive.
    In some forks I've down this and the opposite[ heavier oil /lower air pressure] . Both have worked. Just depends on how fork is initially shimmed. It looks like Push think lighter oil works for this fork.

    I wouldn't do the mod. It's really for earlier 32mm forks. 2011 forks are much better.
    Try only 2 - 3mls of oil in air cartridge side first.

    Also look at your shock setting to. To high shock pressure transfers your weight on to the fork in the corners. Fork dive can also be a mind set to.Some don't seem to be able to tolerate any at all. A bit of weight shifting can usually negate drastic head angle changes. On earlier bikes with straight steerers and QR axle then fork dive translted in to a squimy feel . Not so on my latest bikes with tapered fork and 15mm axle.
    Last edited by gvs_nz; 05-27-2011 at 04:36 PM.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by bad mechanic View Post
    Once the fork is modded, it's very easy to adjust the progression by adding or removing oil from the air chamber. If you do the mod and decide you don't like it, you can always undo it by adding 1cc of oil for each mm you cut from the air shaft.
    There shouldn't be any need. I've done it to an 08 float but,out of the box, I can get full travel out of my 2011 forks .The mod is not absolutely straight fwd and there is potential to get it wrong and add stiction to your forks if your drilling skills are not the best.

    By and large it's air pressure tht most have a problem with in the latest generation. Mostt need to use sag, not recommended air pressures, to tune their forks. These single air forks air extremely sensitive to air pressure. Two to three psi can change the feel of the fork. Lower pressures 5 psi at a time to get low speed feel in to the forks. Balance the bike with both shock and fork air pressures so the shock doesn't push the bike on to the fork in corners. Build a tolerance to fork dive. It can be a mindset in some people. You don't need full travel just close. Some progression is beneficial to how a fork handles the big stuff. Don't get hung up on travel but quality of travel. I'm had some 140mm forks which were rubbish in the big stuff compared to other 120mm forks.

    It appears Push may lower oil weight on some RLC's to lower high speed compression?. So that and and lower oil level in air chamber could be simple tweaks.

  20. #20
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    2011 Air Spring is different

    I recently replaced the air spring on my 2010 Float RLC Fit 120. I ordered the 2011 air spring to replace the 2010. Fox has caught on to the whole increased air chamber thing and shortened the 2011 air spring by approx. 5-10mm creating a larger air chamber. Fork gets full travel now, even at higher pressures. I previously did the air spring mod removing 20mm which I found was way to much. I should of removed 5-10mm. Also, make sure you use a drill press. The hole must be dead straight.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by gvs_nz View Post
    There shouldn't be any need. I've done it to an 08 float but,out of the box, I can get full travel out of my 2011 forks .The mod is not absolutely straight fwd and there is potential to get it wrong and add stiction to your forks if your drilling skills are not the best.
    Tree isn't getting full travel on his 2011. Regardless that Fox reduced the shaft by 9mm, it's apparently still not enough for Tree's liking, and the solution is the air shaft mod. Even before Fox shortened the shaft, owners were shortening them more than the 9mm Fox did; I've seen up to 20mm cut off.

    Quote Originally Posted by bikenut316 View Post
    Also, make sure you use a drill press. The hole must be dead straight.
    I've never used a drill press, and they've always come out ok. What I do is put the piston on the shaft, and center punch the the shaft through the hole in the piston using a nail. Then I used a step drill bit to bring the hole to the right size. I then put the piston back on, press the pin back in just enough that it centers on the hole (so you can pull it back out), and did the other side.

  22. #22
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    But has he got his fork set up properly first? What's his experience? Is this his first Fox fork? I suggest if he sell them off and what he is used to rather than mod them.

    There's other changes to the 2011 besides air chamber capacity. I modded my 08 forks and they are still no where near as linear as 2011.
    Last edited by gvs_nz; 05-29-2011 at 01:09 PM.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by gvs_nz View Post
    But has he got his fork set up properly first? What's his experience? Is this his first Fox fork? I suggest if he sell them off and what he is used to rather than mod them.

    There's other changes to the 2011 besides air chamber capacity. I modded my 08 forks and they are still no where near as good as 2011.
    I agree but the mod can be a step in the right direction if purchasing a 2011 is not an option.

  24. #24
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    Just curious how high do the 2011 32's sit?? My 36 FLoat 160 sits at 175mm's, there's an extra 15mm's. All my older FOX forks sit at the travel they're suppos to.

    Just to add to the discussion the 2011's have a larger air chamber due to the stanchions being hollowed out a bit more to reduce weight. My VAN had a larger diameter spring, then 2010, due to this.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikenut316 View Post
    I agree but the mod can be a step in the right direction if purchasing a 2011 is not an option.
    He owns a 2011 fork. That's my whole argument.

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