Fox Talas 32 rlc oil change- oil volume?
I'm about %75 done changing the oil on this fork- lowers are back on, talas side has fresh oil bath...but I've got 2 questions on the RLC damper side:
- How do I keep the lower cartridge from spinning as I tighten the foot nut on?
- What is the correct oil volume for the damper side? Fox says to drain the oil out of the cartridge then refill it from the values from their oil volume table- so does this mean after emptying the damper I put 65.2 ml's of oil into the open bath, and cycle the fork? Or just 30 (even though the damper is empty- no mention on their site of how to refill it).
from the oil volume table:
What year is your fork? Does it have the FIT damper?
Ah, yeah sorry I should have mentioned that
Originally Posted by bad mechanic
It does have the FIT damper & decals on it, so I assume it's a 2010 even though I actually bought it in June '09.
OK I think I have it figured out?
That is, Fox's online service documentation suxxx.
The service page for the '09/'10 RLC forks says "To remove oil from the damper cartridge, very gently insert a small hex key (1.5mm) into one of the ports. This action will open the spring loaded check shim.". There are no ports in the FIT RLC cartridge!
Also kind of lame, they have you remove the damper side top cap and adjusters (which requires a custom ground-down socket).. but there is really no reason to do this since the FIT cartridge is sealed. If you are only changing the oil bath, you can do it just by removing the footnuts.
The link from the current forks to the "RLC damper overhaul pages" takes you to documentation on the 2007 model.
Based on this "I guess" it's 35ml on the damper side. But I am not really trusting much info from fox's website.
Last edited by FM; 02-28-2010 at 10:03 AM.
It says 30ml for damper side oil bath, I'd go with that. Looks like the procedure still set up for open bath cart. I'm surprized the fit cart takes so little oil in that one, 35ml, the 36 takes 100ml, though you will not fit it all in it's enough to complete the bleed.
Only 10ml in the air side oil bath....yikes! It ain't much.
As long as the baldder and seals are good in the FIT cart it should still be full. You would notice the air in it if it lost much fluid.
You're right that the FIT damper doesn't need to be drained, and you're also correct that the damper doesn't need to be removed to change the oil bath. Use 30ml of oil for the damper side oil bath.
I forgot to mention, since you have the FIT, you can use 5w-40 synthetic motor oil (most here use Mobil 1) as your bath oil, as it's better suited to that lubricating duty.
shh. don't tell the wife
This thread comes up as a top Google result and it doesn't actually answer the OP's question.
If the footnut is spinning on the damper side here are 2 tricks that may help
- Compress the lowers by strapping the brake arch to the fork crown. This will help seat everything and may provide enough friction on the damper shaft for the footnut to thread on.
- use a small flat head screwdriver to pry between the bottom of the footnut and the lowers, or between the lowers/crush washer and the footnut to get enough force to hold the shaft in place and the footnut to thread on.
A trick to avoid the problem is to set the crush washer all the way against the lower so it does not interfere with your footnut.
If neither of these tricks work you may have cross threaded something. If this is the case get it apart and chase the threads (M8) with a tap and die.
All you need is love... but Scotch'll do in a pinch.
If the OP or anyone else who's done this is still around, I've got a question.
I have a TALAS 32 RLC with FIT (2010 I think). The rebound knob is on the bottom of the fork, on the same side as the FIT damper.
I have the rebound knob and both foot nuts removed to do the oil and dust wiper service. When I go to remove the lowers the threaded end where the rebound knob mounts comes along too (the threaded end on the air spring side stays in place like I would expect).
I just wanted to make sure that the threaded end where the rebound knob mounts is not threaded into the lower. I didn't want to force it too hard to try to get it apart.
They need to be broken free from the lowers. Thread the bottom nut halfway back on, place a socket on it, and then tap it with a rubber mallet.
Thanks bad mech - I will try that tonight.