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  1. #1
    human dehumidifier
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    Fox RL fork - lockout lever balls out

    I had the lockout lever on my Fox RL off, filing it to not hit the DT, and the 3 tiny balls fell out and I didn't even notice. Heck honestly I didn't even know they were there until I couldn't get it to tighten up. But thanks to f*king magnets I found them, 2 on the floor, one on the bench. I should buy a lottery ticket.

    Anyway, now I just need to put them back in the lever. Seems like they'd have to go under the setscrews - can anyone confirm or deny? Thanks in advance for the info
    But if you close your eyes it becomes so easy to see

  2. #2
    human dehumidifier
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    OK, I found the answer on my own. Following is from a blurry Fox blueprint, found at My turn for Fox help: size of lost bearing?

    Grease and install a 0.07??25 ball into each of the three radial holes on the lockout lever such that it is to the inside of the set screw. Install a ??? Set Screw into each of the 3 holes in the lockout knob by threading them in until they are flush, then back them out 1/4 turn.


    So, the balls don't go into the same hole as the set screw, they go into the holes on the inside of the lever, and when you install the lever then tighten down the set screw it pushes the ball out into a slot in the shaft.
    But if you close your eyes it becomes so easy to see

  3. #3
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    Hahah, things like this happen to me all the time! Helps to know I'm not the only one who miss places things when disassembling... O.o Glad to know you figured it out though.

  4. #4
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    You seriously should go pick up a lottery ticket or two....amazing that you found those bearings as they are incredibly tiny.

    Next time, don't loosen the set screws that much, and you won't have an issue. Always check to make sure they are pushing out slightly too(towards the center) when you go to reinstall - if they get trapped directly under the set screws, you could damage the lockout lever.

  5. #5
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    I just got done going through the Enduro seal installation procedures and how all I have to do is snap my blue damping lever back on top, but I have a question. I noticed that the octagonal nut that the level lines up with spins a lot more than the lever used to before the overhaul. How do I go about making sure the lockout level is in the right spot?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by willevans View Post
    I just got done going through the Enduro seal installation procedures and how all I have to do is snap my blue damping lever back on top, but I have a question. I noticed that the octagonal nut that the level lines up with spins a lot more than the lever used to before the overhaul. How do I go about making sure the lockout level is in the right spot?
    I think I understand your Question

    Drop the lock-out lever onto the top cap assembly (don't tighten the 3 grub screws yet) and turn the assembly clockwise untill there is a hard stop. You might have to pull the blue lever off the top cap and do the above proceedure a few times, but you'll get there.

    Once that's done, simply install the lever at the 6 o'clock position, gently press down on the LL and lightly tighten up the grub screws

    Test your work and your done!

  7. #7
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    Cort,

    My LL doesn't have the three grub screws that I've seen in a lot of the pictorial instructions (got the bike and fork in March of 2011), but I see what you are getting at. I can use my LL at an 8-point socket head to tighten that octagonal nut until it stops moving, then snap it into place.

    I'll try it out this afternoon.

    Thanks!

  8. #8
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    Another quick question:

    When rebuilding the fork with Enduro Seals, how critical is it to get the oil seals perfectly square in the lowers of fork? I could get them kinda close, but not as exact as in the pictorial instructions because I didn't have a seal press. The stanchions slipped into the lowers pretty easily when I was putting everything back together so I guess they weren't too crooked. Any thoughts on that?

  9. #9
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    Get a PCV pipe from home center and pound it like Enduro instruction shows. You'll use it again and again, it's a good investment. Is this air fork? Then there is a slight change that the seal may pop out with air pressure build up during compression. I doubt that, but there are some folks out there that they seals burped.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by hatake View Post
    Get a PCV pipe from home center and pound it like Enduro instruction shows. You'll use it again and again, it's a good investment. Is this air fork? Then there is a slight change that the seal may pop out with air pressure build up during compression. I doubt that, but there are some folks out there that they seals burped.
    I'll keep you posted if the seals burp.

    The OEM seals are self aligning so I can see why Fox is so attached to them. The two-piece seals from Enduro may perform better, but good grief they are fiddly to get into position.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by willevans View Post
    When rebuilding the fork with Enduro Seals, how critical is it to get the oil seals perfectly square in the lowers of fork? I could get them kinda close, but not as exact as in the pictorial instructions because I didn't have a seal press. The stanchions slipped into the lowers pretty easily when I was putting everything back together so I guess they weren't too crooked. Any thoughts on that?
    I'll grease the oil seals and just get them started. Then I'll grease the wipers and use them to push the oil seals into place. Once the wiper is seated, I'll use my finger to pull up on the oil seal to insure it's fully seated against the bottom of the wiper. This way I can be sure the oil seals are square.

  12. #12
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    I lost the lockout lever balls too. I found replacements in an old eggbeater pedal bearing. Detailed drawings* on the Fox web site show they are 0.078" diameter (1.98 mm).
    *service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/Content/820-05-046_Rev1.pdf

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by willevans View Post
    Cort,

    My LL doesn't have the three grub screws that I've seen in a lot of the pictorial instructions (got the bike and fork in March of 2011), but I see what you are getting at. I can use my LL at an 8-point socket head to tighten that octagonal nut until it stops moving, then snap it into place.

    I'll try it out this afternoon.

    Thanks!
    This is a long-shot given how old this thread is, but what size socket did you use? I am trying to remove my lockout lever on an 2011 F29RL and the lever does not have the set screws, I can't tell what holds it on or how to remove?

  14. #14
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    If it's not retained by the ball bearings then you simply pry it up gently.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjsb View Post
    This is a long-shot given how old this thread is, but what size socket did you use? I am trying to remove my lockout lever on an 2011 F29RL and the lever does not have the set screws, I can't tell what holds it on or how to remove?
    You'll need a 32mm 6 point socket (a crescent wrench will work in a pinch). The top caps are on good and tight (165 in-lbs) so be careful of the wrench slipping.

    As mentioned earlier, you'll need to pry it off with a thin flat blade screwdriver. You can damage the flats of the lever, so be gentle as you walk it off.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by cort View Post
    You'll need a 32mm 6 point socket (a crescent wrench will work in a pinch). The top caps are on good and tight (165 in-lbs) so be careful of the wrench slipping.

    As mentioned earlier, you'll need to pry it off with a thin flat blade screwdriver. You can damage the flats of the lever, so be gentle as you walk it off.
    Thanks! I talked with Fox about an hour ago and they told me exactly what you said--thanks for your help!

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