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  1. #1
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    Fox FIT Fork Dry Foam Rings -> Store Bike Upside Down?

    My 6 mo. old Fox FIT RLC fork was feeling really sticky lately. I decided it must be time for new seals. So I took it apart and found the foam rings were bone dry. I've been running Fox non-FIT forks for years and I've never seen a dry foam ring upon rebuild. Do the foam rings typically dry out after a while, but I've just been lucky and not seen it? Or is this something unique to the FIT version?

    I think I read somewhere about storing the bike/fork upside down every once in a while to get oil up there. But I've also heard of people having brake issues afterwards, so I've never bothered and never saw the need.

    Do you store your bike upside down every once in a while?

  2. #2
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    Forget storing the bike upside down...those foam rings are wetted by the bath oil. If they're dry, what kind of shape are your stanchions in, cause you were running your fork dry...
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  3. #3
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    Fox FIT Fork Dry Foam Rings -> Store Bike Upside Down?

    There was oil in the fork when I took it apart. Stanchions are fine. I was putting Slick Honey on them until I could do the rebuild.

  4. #4
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    So I just got my 34 Float 29er back from a Fox warranty trip...creaky crown. Hint, whenever you get a fork back from Fox, take it apart and check their handywork! I found both of the foam rings folded over itself, causing the fork to feel unusually stiff/sticky. And, the bath oil level on the air piston side was no where near what drained out of the damping cartridge side (30ml for both).

    So anyway (rant over), I replaced whatever green crap they used for oil bath and air chamber Float fluid w/ some 20/50 WT motor oil...that non-synthetic (Castro?) stuff in the red bottle meant for cars w/ older and higher miles engines...and you talk about a whole new fork! When I reassembled, I popped off the main seal and foam ring, Slick Honey the main seal between the two scraper lips, and slipped them onto the stanchions, and pressed them in using handlebar shim halves and the fork's crown, filled the fork w/ bath oil from the footnut hole, then buttoned up the air chamber w/ 10ml (spec calls for 5ml) of motor oil.

    I didn't wet down the foam ring as an extra step in this rebuild...the bath oil fill step from the footnut hole should have wetted those foam rings.

    Oh, if your fork is a Float and when/if you have the air piston out, look for either a foam ring or a blue scraper seal on the rod side of the piston. Remove that thing and you'll see a whole new level of smoothness in your fork! Fox tech will tell you that seal will keep oil from getting into the air chamber. But that makes no sense what w/ the air chamber in positive pressure...5-6 atmospheres of (+) pressure (!)...how in the hell will fluid move from a lower pressure zone to a higher pressure zone?!
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  5. #5
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    So you're using motor oil instead of fox shock oil? I was wondering what everybody was using when they rebuilt their forks. I have two bottles of the 20/30wt stuff from fox and my front fork is getting kinda sticky on the LSC side of things. Might be time for a rebuild even though I did it two months ago.

    Any chance you can post exactly what motor oil you used?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by NJTransplant View Post
    So you're using motor oil instead of fox shock oil? I was wondering what everybody was using when they rebuilt their forks. I have two bottles of the 20/30wt stuff from fox and my front fork is getting kinda sticky on the LSC side of things. Might be time for a rebuild even though I did it two months ago.

    Any chance you can post exactly what motor oil you used?
    My bad on the Castrol...
    Its Valveline Maxlife 20/50...I've had that bottle so long the label fell off...
    But it's this stuff:
    Valvoline.com > Products > Motor Oil > Higher Mileage Motor Oil > MaxLife® Higher Mileage Motor Oil

    $2 to $3 has lasted me 5+ years... I should prob get a fresh bottle

    Also, I've not had any seal swelling issues w this stuff. OH! I guess now you can get different weights of this stuff! Weird tho...I thought this stuff was NOT synthetic...?
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    So anyway (rant over), I replaced whatever green crap they used for oil bath and air chamber Float fluid w/ some 20/50 WT motor oil
    I should point out that it's been pretty well established that Fox Green is possibly the best bath oil you can get. Amongst other threads, you can find commentary here:
    fox green 10wt, looking for substitute

    I personally have done friction tests on a few bath oils in my Fox Float 150 and nothing gave nearly as good a result as Fox Green.

  8. #8
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    Creaking - POOR FOX MANUFACTURING PROCESS!!!

    My 6 month old Fox 32 FIT TALAS also had a creaky-clicky fork for the last couple of weeks. The stanchions always looked dry and I knew it wasn't right.
    I decided to service the seals, and upon removing the lowers, NO OIL whatsoever came out!! Dry as a bone. The seals had rubbed part of their rubber onto the stanchions, the foam rings were of course dry also.

    This wasn't a leak either, just absolutely piss poor manufacturing assembly related to the operator at Fox who is supposed to put 30ml of oil in each lower fork for seal lubrication.

    So I put the 30ml of green oil in each lower, new seals and foam rings and crush washers, and it works smooth as butter. I didn't do a FIT damper service as it has been fine, and I don't have a couple of the special tools needed for done TALAS service, so maybe this fall. The damper seems to work fine, and the CTD function works, although I barely ever use it outside of Trail mode.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matty F View Post
    I should point out that it's been pretty well established that Fox Green is possibly the best bath oil you can get. Amongst other threads, you can find commentary here:
    fox green 10wt, looking for substitute

    I personally have done friction tests on a few bath oils in my Fox Float 150 and nothing gave nearly as good a result as Fox Green.
    Was Mobile 1 used in your bath oil test(s)? (oops, nevermind, just saw your post...)

    The logic went like this for me:
    Engine pistons on piston liners...a helluva lot more demands on a lube oil than ano'd aluminum or nickel/Kash/magic fairy dust coated fork stanchions and PTFE bushings... Provided the fluid didn't damage any seals or the PTFE, what I can do to it w/a fork won't even touch its potential. On lubricity...are we talking fractions of percentages or tens of percents? If motor oil's too burly and gives it up a bit in lubricity, I'd gladly trade it for its durability and price...how much does a bottle of Fox Green run?

    BTW Matty F. thanks for the link to that bath oil discussion! That was a good read!
    Last edited by Pau11y; 06-30-2013 at 06:39 PM.
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