Here is the link to my tutorial
It shows how to teardown you DHX and replace oil, Main shaft and IFP seals.
The Propedal and Rebound arnt taken apart or altered (yet)
Also im in the process of compiling a high quality seal kit that include's all of the internal o-ring seals, as well as a much higher quaility guide, with much more detailed pictures and descriptions, as well as how to replace all seals.
FYI Blaster, the reason i didnt post the pdf directly here is because the file is to large. If you got a problem downloading it from mediafire because of a bit of spam, tick off and go have a cry.
Nick, great work man, thanks for posting this. I have the DHX air and was planning a rebuild. Does the air version require the nitrogen charge? Also are there shims on both sides of the piston? The shim stack can be clearly seen in the pics but i couldnt tell from orientation whether those were for compression or rebound.
Nick, great work man, thanks for posting this. I have the DHX air and was planning a rebuild. Does the air version require the nitrogen charge? Also are there shims on both sides of the piston? The shim stack can be clearly seen in the pics but i couldnt tell from orientation whether those were for compression or rebound.
Yes, the DHX Air does require a nitro charge, it goes where that little white nylon plug is. Im not sure how much this guide will help you for a dhx air, as it was mainly for a coil
I can however give you a pic of the shim stack
The washer on the far left is the thick black plate washer that dosent flex, between that and the piston is the compression stack, on the right of the piston is the rebound stack.
Hope this helps mate
Cheers
davep: I was talking about a DHX Air, ther is a nitro charge under that white plug. On the coil, you are correct, only gas is what you put in the boost valve
DHidiot: That is a stock stack from a 09 DHX. I havent altered the shim stack (yet) from its stock version because i cant find a place to buy shims from
I have just reassembled my shock, and dont intend to take it part again for a while. However give me some info of what you want measured and i gladly will measure it next time i have it apart
I have just reassembled my shock, and dont intend to take it part again for a while. However give me some info of what you want measured and i gladly will measure it next time i have it apart
Thanks Nick for the work you did on this tutorial. I just finished putting my shock on the rig and test riding around town. It is simply BUTTER. I used Red Line 10wt, which I have found to be the best brand fork and shock oil in the business. I found all the O-rings at my local Western States Cat dealer. They stock more O-rings then you can shake a stick at, and are cheap.
Thanks Nick for the work you did on this tutorial. I just finished putting my shock on the rig and test riding around town. It is simply BUTTER. I used Red Line 10wt, which I have found to be the best brand fork and shock oil in the business. I found all the O-rings at my local Western States Cat dealer. They stock more O-rings then you can shake a stick at, and are cheap.
Cheers
Thanks for the reply mate, good to here your shock works great now
Lee, such angst! It's not entirely spam, so some of that could be useful...
I would like to see a way to isolate the rebound from the LSC in a DHX. No reason not to have that orifice closed off on the compression stroke.
it can be done, send it in to push and they will change the bolt to one that is closed off on compression "powertrac" valve is how they put it I believe.
So I would like to know if anyone has gone to the work of cataloging, or has access to the IFP depth for all of the Fox DHX 5. coils? I have a 8.75 x 2.75 on my 2008 Santa Cruz V10 and am engaging to test different depths after rebuild, and record changes in suspension "feel"
I'll also be testing the use of Nitrogen in the air chamber, and infusing the oil to remove all the air.
Let us know when it's back up! I saw this before you took it off there and you did a fantastic job! Wondering if you or anyone has taken the body off the res? I heard of someone shortening the body to reduce the eye to eye length. I'm thinking of doing this for my Uzzi to lower the BB and change the geo a bit. I guess it can be done (but, not more than 5mm, I guess).
Let us know when it's back up! I saw this before you took it off there and you did a fantastic job! .
Cheers mate
Might be a little longer, as i have exams for the next week so no time to keep working on the guide for now, when there finished though, ill be back into it
The new one is coming along nicely
Got new info, changed some processes to make it easier, and to answer the peoples complaints of bad quality photos im now using my dads Nikon D200 DSLR camera with a big mofo of a lens, tripod (brilliant things!!!), set on macro closeup focus, super fine quality raw format pictures, ill have to compress the file when its done
Also now that ive figured out how to get microsoft office to play nice with vista (biggest POS since Hayes El Camino's) the document will be proeprly formatted and no spelling mistakes
Might be a little longer, as i have exams for the next week so no time to keep working on the guide for now, when there finished though, ill be back into it
The new one is coming along nicely
Got new info, changed some processes to make it easier, and to answer the peoples complaints of bad quality photos im now using my dads Nikon D200 DSLR camera with a big mofo of a lens, tripod (brilliant things!!!), set on macro closeup focus, super fine quality raw format pictures, ill have to compress the file when its done
Also now that ive figured out how to get microsoft office to play nice with vista (biggest POS since Hayes El Camino's) the document will be proeprly formatted and no spelling mistakes
Just so you know, the white plug at the bottom of the shock body on the DHX Air is just a plug covering an oil bleed valve. There is no nitrogen inside the DHX Air, anywhere. None.
sorry but i cannot open it, it doesn't work do you have an other link? please? thanks
Hi mate
yea it dosent work because ive taken it offline while im in the process of writing a new one. Id rather people wait so they can download the new one rather the old one, as the new one is much more detailed, much better quality pictures, and some little changes to the procedure using info ive recieved from other since i put the old one up. Its been delayed a little as im in exam period, last one is on wednesday so ill be in full swing after that in getting this , i hope to have it up by next weekend at the latest.
Sorry for the delay guys, i promise the wait will be worth it
nick, the bleed instructions were awesome, thanks so much. I need to make the shock run with a 2.0" stroke instead of the 2.25 it has now. How should I shim it, and what should I use for shims? Should I just put .25 of spacers under the bump stop? Or if I pop the piston off the body, is there a better place to shim? Thanks again,
Hunter
nick, the bleed instructions were awesome, thanks so much. I need to make the shock run with a 2.0" stroke instead of the 2.25 it has now. How should I shim it, and what should I use for shims? Should I just put .25 of spacers under the bump stop? Or if I pop the piston off the body, is there a better place to shim? Thanks again,
Hunter
hi mate
Glad to hear it worked for ya
Ive never actually thought about shimming the dhx down, i suppose its possible..
Id reckon that the best place to put the shim would be between the bottom plate shim and between the shaft end cap ( the thing that houses the main shaft seal )
But before you do it, id check with others first just to make sure that it will work and no damage will result
Also this is a link to my new updated thread on rebuilding the DHX
Hey, i'm trying to service my shock at the moment, when i try to remove the shaft cap the whole shaft housing rotates in the base (the bit that joins the shaft and piggy back) - any tips. I don't want to overtighten the vice and damage the shaft housing, its already quite tight. I'm trying to get hold of a clamp of some sort but its not easy, making one from wood but not sure how it'll work.
Hey, i'm trying to service my shock at the moment, when i try to remove the shaft cap the whole shaft housing rotates in the base (the bit that joins the shaft and piggy back) - any tips. I don't want to overtighten the vice and damage the shaft housing, its already quite tight. I'm trying to get hold of a clamp of some sort but its not easy, making one from wood but not sure how it'll work.
Great guide !
Cheers
Blair
LOL THATS THE EXACT SAME PROBLEM I HAD LAST NIGHT WITH MINE !!!!! got a new spring coming (maybe here today ) and figured time to pull it down and new oil etc..... but alas the same problem stopped me dead.. im gonna try the wood block trick and see if i can get it to hold long enough to break it loose.....
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Related q, does the spring size of a DHX varies from other models?
Got a stiffer one for my DHX 3 and didn't fit the body.
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Originally Posted by thebronze
got a new spring coming (maybe here today 
) and figured time to pull it down and new oil etc..... but alas the same problem stopped me dead.. im gonna try the wood block trick and see if i can get it to hold long enough to break it loose..... 
