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  1. #101
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    New to MTB'n... Need help with Fork adjustments... Explanations? Can someone explain when I would "Lockout" my forks when riding? Have a ROCKSHOX XC 32 TK 29er Fork... I ride REAL rooted/stumpy trails in the hills of the Ozark Mountains in Arkansas. Read some stud 'bout people blowing out there shocks on roots and wanted to know when it was appropriate to lockout the travel on the fork?

    Also... Can someone explain the external rebound adjustments? I'm 6'3 and 200lbs on a NORCO Charger 9.1 29er... Is there a preferred point or is it personal preference for riding rough terrain?

    Thanks...

  2. #102
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    Hi to all. I'm new to a forum so i hope I'm in the right theme. I have Giant Reign 1 2013 and want to service fork (talas ctd 150mm). I was googleing without resoults, just want to find manual on how to do it, oil levels. Fork works like it is pretty dry :S. Hope someone can help.

  3. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by sch3ll3 View Post
    Hi to all. I'm new to a forum so i hope I'm in the right theme. I have Giant Reign 1 2013 and want to service fork (talas ctd 150mm). I was googleing without resoults, just want to find manual on how to do it, oil levels. Fork works like it is pretty dry :S. Hope someone can help.
    Hey I just serviced my fox float fork myself for the first time the other day and it wasn't too bad! My suggestion is to check out what you can find searching on youtube "how to service fox talas" and you should have not problem doing it yourself.

  4. #104
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    Sorry about digression but I didn't find any proper topic and I don't want to start a new one. I have a question, maybe silly (or even stupid...) but I wonder if a Rock Shox Reba 29' 2012 lowers would match to Reba 26' 2012 upper legs? I'm thinking about not-expensive 26' fork adaptation to biggest wheel....

  5. #105
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    Hi, thanks for the mass of information in this thread. I am shortly going to be attempting to service my Thor's Damper, replacing the oil etc. I have read the oil volume pdf and overviews provided in 2nd post but was wondering whether anyone had attempted this themselves or had any info detailing the damper service procedure?

  6. #106
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    that will work just check the casting depth in the foot-nut area.

  7. #107
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    this is what im replying to above
    Quote Originally Posted by sagitt77 View Post
    Sorry about digression but I didn't find any proper topic and I don't want to start a new one. I have a question, maybe silly (or even stupid...) but I wonder if a Rock Shox Reba 29' 2012 lowers would match to Reba 26' 2012 upper legs? I'm thinking about not-expensive 26' fork adaptation to biggest wheel....

  8. #108
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    I wonna know the difference between
    sr Suntour xct v2
    and

    SUNTOUR - M3030 DS 26
    so if anyone knows anything i would be grateful

  9. #109
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    looks like both are about the same one is a disk (3030) and the other in v-brake

  10. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by SuspensionKing View Post
    looks like both are about the same one is a disk (3030) and the other in v-brake
    They both have v-brake and disk versions i have V2 in disk+v brake version
    but i have an option to replace it for 3030

  11. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brannonpack View Post
    New to MTB'n... Need help with Fork adjustments... Explanations? Can someone explain when I would "Lockout" my forks when riding? Have a ROCKSHOX XC 32 TK 29er Fork... I ride REAL rooted/stumpy trails in the hills of the Ozark Mountains in Arkansas. Read some stud 'bout people blowing out there shocks on roots and wanted to know when it was appropriate to lockout the travel on the fork?

    Also... Can someone explain the external rebound adjustments? I'm 6'3 and 200lbs on a NORCO Charger 9.1 29er... Is there a preferred point or is it personal preference for riding rough terrain?

    Thanks...
    People usually use the lockout during climbs to prevent the front end from bobbing, especially when they're climbing while out of the saddle. It also comes in handy on pavement and smooth trails.

    As for the rebound adjustment, the setting could be different for everyone. You don't want it too fast where it bounces the front of the bike up. Turn your rebound to the slowest and back it off a few clicks. Then jump off a curb or roll down one to test it out.

  12. #112
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    I bought a 2014 Intense Spider comp demo bike a month ago, only did a few short rides, but the fork was always harsh over small bumps, even using ~20psi less than Fox recommends to get 20% sag, so I decided to drain/inspect the lowers, just in case they were underfilled, or dirty (I have no idea how much demo riding it got over their 5 events), or whatever. (the fork is a Fox Talas 34 29er CTD Adj) - When I knocked free the shafts, there was a good puff of air released, then both legs drained a decent oil volume, and the seals/wipers looked good, still had clean white grease on them, so I put it back together and refilled the bath oil. Then, the fork felt night and day smoother, and I had to increase pressure back to what Fox recommends to get 20% sag.

    So, for the lower(s) to be pressurized, is it most likely a Talas seal leak, or can it "just happen" after being ridden only a few times over the season?

  13. #113
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    I have a 2014 Float-X CTD. Does the piggy back require any servicing? Or is it just the primary shock?

  14. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by lucifuge View Post
    I have a 2014 Float-X CTD. Does the piggy back require any servicing? Or is it just the primary shock?
    It depends on the service you are doing...

    30hrs service > only seal kit
    100hrs service > Inspection, complete tear down and rebuild of damper, including new seals, oil and nitrogen recharge . New air seals and new DU bushings

  15. #115
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    Hi All.

    Just thought I would post a link to our service page. It goes over service intervals and if needed there are prices for sending forks in to us for services if they cannot be provided by a shop or at home.

    Cheers. Nick

    SR Suntour North America | Suspension Service Programs
    SR Suntour warranty/technical advisor

  16. #116
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    thanks for the info! cheers

    Quote Originally Posted by kodo28 View Post
    It depends on the service you are doing...

    30hrs service > only seal kit
    100hrs service > Inspection, complete tear down and rebuild of damper, including new seals, oil and nitrogen recharge . New air seals and new DU bushings

  17. #117
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    FOX Float X CTD
    do anyone knows where the shims for tune are in that shock?
    I now know that this shock is different then the regular CTD.
    the regular don't have shims, and have a boost valve.
    the Float X have shims, and dont have boost valve.
    where are the shims that control the Rebound and Compression?
    what do they change to make this shock F or M or L tune?

    thanks

  18. #118
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    Fork and Shock Service Information

    I accidentally over torqued the bold on the damper side of my 29 float ctd and forced part of the damper mech through the bottom. No damage to the lower assembly, but obvious damage to the lower damper mech.
    My question is: has anyone had any experience with FOX and their RA request/repairs? Whats the usual turn around time? How much did your repair cost? And are there any alternative places to have your fork repaired?
    Ive tried looking for parts, specifically a 32 CTD damper mech for 29 inch and 100mm travel. Nothing out there or I don't know where to look.
    Any info will be much appreciated.


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  19. #119
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    Fork and Shock Service Information

    Check with Push Industries. They specialize in suspension work and tuning. While you're at it, have them do the full service too, if you ever send the fork in. HippyTech Suspension is another placebo check out too.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  20. #120
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    Fork and Shock Service Information

    Thanks will try tomorrow


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  21. #121
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    Anyone know of an online parts dealer who would carry an air side top cap for a rockshox reba rlt. I did a search and couldn't find anything. Thanks

  22. #122
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    Fox inline rear shock oil change/bleeding

    Someone might find this useful. I will later add more pics, more detailed information, etc, but now I am too lazy. You can comment on the link, and I will try to make it better.

    https://**************************/d/1...it?usp=sharing
    Last edited by ncerni; 12-16-2014 at 11:09 AM. Reason: grammar

  23. #123
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    Just changed the oil and seals on my Fox 34 CTD FIT (29er if that matters). Unfortunately, now I can barely get the fork to budge and it is making a slight knocking noise when I push down hard on the fork. I emailed Fox before I changed the oil and put in their recommended oil (30 ml in each side of the lowers) volume. I put in my prior air pressure 175 psi and there was zero sag. I lowered to 150 psi and it is still very difficult to get the fork to compress beyond an inch or so. Any ideas of what I screwed up?

  24. #124
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    any chance it pushed the seals back into the fork when you put lowers back on stancions? i.e. they didnt stay put and its putting resistance where it shouldnt?

    Quote Originally Posted by GMM View Post
    Just changed the oil and seals on my Fox 34 CTD FIT (29er if that matters). Unfortunately, now I can barely get the fork to budge and it is making a slight knocking noise when I push down hard on the fork. I emailed Fox before I changed the oil and put in their recommended oil (30 ml in each side of the lowers) volume. I put in my prior air pressure 175 psi and there was zero sag. I lowered to 150 psi and it is still very difficult to get the fork to compress beyond an inch or so. Any ideas of what I screwed up?

  25. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by lucifuge View Post
    any chance it pushed the seals back into the fork when you put lowers back on stancions? i.e. they didnt stay put and its putting resistance where it shouldnt?
    Maybe, I'm in over my head, but was hoping to learn how to change my own oil. Looked simple on the video. I just drained the lowers, which was easy. New seals and foam rings went on easy. Filled the lowers with oil per Fox's spec and put the lowers back on. Reading more, it looks like with a FIT damper I may have needed to bleed the damper, which I didn't because the video I was following didn't have the procedure-- I think it was pre-FIT damper. I'll start a new thread as this one is a bit cumbersome to follow.

  26. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by GMM View Post
    Just changed the oil and seals on my Fox 34 CTD FIT (29er if that matters). Unfortunately, now I can barely get the fork to budge and it is making a slight knocking noise when I push down hard on the fork. I emailed Fox before I changed the oil and put in their recommended oil (30 ml in each side of the lowers) volume. I put in my prior air pressure 175 psi and there was zero sag. I lowered to 150 psi and it is still very difficult to get the fork to compress beyond an inch or so. Any ideas of what I screwed up?

    Good lord! 175psi? That's your issue right there. 110 is the highest you should go. 34 FLOAT 29

  27. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paulsmith55 View Post
    Good lord! 175psi? That's your issue right there. 110 is the highest you should go. 34 FLOAT 29
    not if it's a 2014, they changed the Float and Talas to smaller air chambers so the pressures are completely different than 2013. I'm 150lb and using 115psi in my 2014 Talas34 29er. Any lower and the coil negative spring sucks it down.

  28. #128
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    Not according to Fox's website.

  29. #129
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paulsmith55 View Post
    Not according to Fox's website.
    What year fork is yours?

    I entered my fork code and this is the setup chart from the page:

    Suggested Starting Points for Setting Sag
    Rider Weight lbs/kgs 140mm 150mm
    ≤125 ≤57 85psi 75psi
    125 - 135 57 - 61 90psi 85psi
    135 - 145 61 - 66 100psi 90psi
    145 - 155 66 - 70 120psi 110psi
    155 - 170 70 - 77 125psi 120psi
    170 - 185 77 - 84 135psi 125psi
    185 - 200 84 - 91 145psi 145psi
    200 - 215 91 - 98 165psi 165psi
    215 - 230 98 - 104 180psi 180psi
    230 - ≥250 104 - ≥113 200psi 200psi

    GMM - enter your fork code into the ridefox website and there's full setup page.

  30. #130
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    Fork and Shock Service Information

    The CODEs on factory forks that come with NINERs dont work with the FOX tuning APP


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  31. #131
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    Hello i have some questions and i would really appreciate your answers.

    I am in the process of buying a used all mountain bike. Unfortunatly the budget is quite low. I am prepared to pay up to 650 euro that is a round 720 $. So today i looked at a zesty 08. The price is 550 $. Now i know that for this kind of mo ey i cannot expect a new bike. Basicly the only thing that stopped me from buying it was the sound of the fork.

    Fork is a rockshox revelation dual position air. Good thing is the fork dives and returns nicely. It is a constant motion it dives smoothly. The rebound adjuster works and the difference in rebound speed is noticable. The compression adjuster works as well although it could work better.*

    Now the dual position system does not work or should i say the difference between the two setting is maybhalf an inch instead of 40 mm. But i dont really need this dual position so no big deal. The problem was the sound when the fork dived. It sounded like you can hear the oil moving in the fork or something like that.*

    The same goes with the rear shock it moved smoothly but there was some sound. The shock is a flot r.*The questin is does the suspension need only a service. I am mainly worried about the fork or will i need to buy a new one soon. Oh and also the stancions of the fork are without any damage but the lower legs are quite bumped.

    Any issues with that.Thank you very much for any replies.

  32. #132
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    Fork and Shock Service Information-img_2821.jpg

    I'm somewhat of a noob when it comes to bike maintenance. After several technical rides I noticed that the dropout bolts were loose. Is this a common thing? Should I be checking on these regularly. To fix I added some loctite on each side and wrenched on them as hard as a could. Being very careful about not getting loctite near the bearings of the suspension. Any information on this will help.

  33. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluefalcon25 View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_2821.jpg 
Views:	99 
Size:	75.6 KB 
ID:	980818

    I'm somewhat of a noob when it comes to bike maintenance. After several technical rides I noticed that the dropout bolts were loose. Is this a common thing? Should I be checking on these regularly. To fix I added some loctite on each side and wrenched on them as hard as a could. Being very careful about not getting loctite near the bearings of the suspension. Any information on this will help.
    The pivot bolt? Those should be torqued to spec with a little bit of Loctite.

  34. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paulsmith55 View Post
    The pivot bolt? Those should be torqued to spec with a little bit of Loctite.

    Yes, exactly. Thanks. I'll take it over to my LBS and get that taken care of.

  35. #135
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    If you need spare shock, this is bargain FOX RACING SHOX Rear Shock Float CTD Factory
    http://www.rczbikeshop.com/en_ue/fox...lack-chgj.html

  36. #136
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    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    Well, I'm by no mean an expert at this, but I had to service my 12 years old RS SID rear shock (air shock) this week. I couldn't find any place where they would do it and the only part I could find was a 3 piece kit that included a dust wiper, main o-ring and a glide ring. I had the service manual in pdf and that was all. So I just remove the air from the can, remove the can, depressurize the internal floating piston (ifp) using a hypodermic needle and then unscrew the main seal head to remove the old oil and pour new one in. Then put back the seal head, re pressurize the ifp with air (or nitrogen if available), put back the air can and air the shock. Luckily, I didn't had to change any parts. Just clean the old oil and lube and put new one in.

    Now for your col shock, it should be pretty much the same except my air can would be your coil. Remove the coil, depressurize the ifp, remove the seal head, change oil, put back seal head (the main piston rod), re pressurize the ifp with a shock pump or nitrogen and tadam !

    Of course, it's a bit more technical than that, but it's pretty much the guideline for servicing a rear shock.

    Now if you need new parts, you could always source o-rings from your hardware store, but rod wiper and glide ring might be more a problem to find.

    For my needle, I used a medical hypodermic needle screwed into a presta adaptor and cut to fit into my shock pump schrader head. See the pics.

    Best thing to do is get as much info on that shock and where you could possibly get parts or help if something goes wrong. Then only start when you have everything and all the tools needed. You might also need to set the ifp height before you pour new oil. That's why having the service manual is handy. The height of the ifp can be changed by adding more air or releasing some after you depressurize the ifp.
    This actually works????
    No dudes, no temas, no te arrepientas.

  37. #137
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    Hi.
    I just bought a second hand 2016 FLOAT X EVOL. After the first ride at 250 psi (SAG 25%) it seems to me not reaching the full travel on my YETI SB66c.
    In the box there is written "Spacer x1".
    What does it means? Which is the size of the internal spacer?
    Is it possible to remove it completely?
    Thanks.

  38. #138
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    Quote Originally Posted by saione View Post
    Hi.
    I just bought a second hand 2016 FLOAT X EVOL. After the first ride at 250 psi (SAG 25%) it seems to me not reaching the full travel on my YETI SB66c.
    In the box there is written "Spacer x1".
    What does it means? Which is the size of the internal spacer?
    Is it possible to remove it completely?
    Thanks.
    Why not try 30% sag for the next ride, before changing any spacers?

  39. #139
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    delete

  40. #140
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    Quote Originally Posted by fsrxc View Post
    Why not try 30% sag for the next ride, before changing any spacers?
    For sure 30% sag is an option.

  41. #141
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    New question here.

    Whats the sizes for rs lyric rebound o-ring seals ?
    https://www.sram.com/sites/default/f...PC_Rev%20B.pdf
    page 51, item# 12,Rebound Damper, Motion ControlLyrik/2010-2011
    There are 2 seals, inner and outer. Could someone tell me what are the sizes of these seals ?

  42. #142
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    I have a 2008 Giant Trance X1 with Fox 32 F120RL, 120mm.
    I bought this used obviously last year off a friend. After just over 500 miles of riding I found fluid leaking from both stanchions. After talking to my friend I get the impression he didn't do much service to the bike, although appearance wise its in great shape. He really isn't a hard rider, and i'm not either but I do ride harder than he did.

    Anyway, I watched one video on bike radar and they called it "service". This looked to be just a cleaning of the forks and insides and cleaning of the seals. Correct me if i'm wrong but I assume I need a seal replacement, similar service though?

    Appreciate the help!

  43. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by gzank6 View Post
    I have a 2008 Giant Trance X1 with Fox 32 F120RL, 120mm.
    I bought this used obviously last year off a friend. After just over 500 miles of riding I found fluid leaking from both stanchions. After talking to my friend I get the impression he didn't do much service to the bike, although appearance wise its in great shape. He really isn't a hard rider, and i'm not either but I do ride harder than he did.

    Anyway, I watched one video on bike radar and they called it "service". This looked to be just a cleaning of the forks and insides and cleaning of the seals. Correct me if i'm wrong but I assume I need a seal replacement, similar service though?

    Appreciate the help!

    Definitely get a seat kit, a "pillow pack" (5ml of the Fox blue fluid) and either the green or red 10wt oil but check Fox website for what they recommend.
    Should fix your problem.
    Between this video http://youtu.be/eh-sIrnC8xs and this video http://youtu.be/lKLZ88zfCYM
    You should be able to do it yourself.

  44. #144
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    I need help finding a new fork. My fork dropouts broke on 06 DB Response Comp and I'm having a tough time finding a lower leg for Marzocchi MZ-III fork. My temporary replacement fork is smaller than the MZ-III 30mm stanchions and it can't handle the brake force.

  45. #145
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bikecooler View Post
    I need help finding a new fork. My fork dropouts broke on 06 DB Response Comp and I'm having a tough time finding a lower leg for Marzocchi MZ-III fork. My temporary replacement fork is smaller than the MZ-III 30mm stanchions and it can't handle the brake force.
    I doubt that you'll find new lowers.
    How much do you want to spend on a new fork

  46. #146
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    I doubt it too but I'm looking, I'll buy another XC bike for a comparable fork.

  47. #147
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    Did you search ebay? I saw uppers and lowers for dome fox forks.

    Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

  48. #148
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    Yeah. And I found Rock Shox and Marzocchi bomber lower legs but I don't know that they are compatible. I'll keep looking.

  49. #149
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    Have you reached out to the manufacturer? Fox was extremely helpful vis email with quick replies and help with specs and proper fits.

    Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

  50. #150
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    Quote Originally Posted by gzank6 View Post
    Have you reached out to the manufacturer? Fox was extremely helpful vis email with quick replies and help with specs and proper fits.

    Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

    I didn't contact Marzoccchi. I did buy a new SR Suntour XCR fork for $75. I don't expect the same performance but the stanchion dia,travel and weight are the same.

    The DB Response Comp is not a great XC bike but after I replaced the drivetrain, it was a good donor bike for the front electric wheel kit. Best to install a rear electric wheel or mid drive.

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