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  1. #26
    "El Whatever"
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    Quote Originally Posted by elhefedemefe View Post
    Need to lower suspension (from 100mm down to, say, around 80ish mm?) on an RST Omega.

    I'm assuming I have to do more than just cut the spring in the left leg? What do I need to do to the damper assembly?

    Anybody...?
    Have a picture or diagram of the internals?

    When you shorten a fork, you have to make it avoid extending to its former full extension. Most of times, this involves putting a spacer or spring under the piston or plunger.

    The damper side should be ok.

    Check threads for shortening travel on other forks, you'll get easily the idea.
    Check my Site

  2. #27
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    Lower Travel questions

    OK, so... I looked at your site, but many of the pictures aren't available for whatever reason.

    Do I just take the lowers off, remove the spring on the left (sprung) leg, and throw some kind of makeshift spacer beneath it? Or should it be similar to an elastomer bottom out bumper?

    ...or maybe a spring that fits....?

    Thanks for your input in advance...

  3. #28
    "El Whatever"
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    Quote Originally Posted by elhefedemefe View Post
    OK, so... I looked at your site, but many of the pictures aren't available for whatever reason.

    Do I just take the lowers off, remove the spring on the left (sprung) leg, and throw some kind of makeshift spacer beneath it? Or should it be similar to an elastomer bottom out bumper?

    ...or maybe a spring that fits....?

    Thanks for your input in advance...
    If your fork is like the attached pic, you need to remove spacer "1-3" and put it between "2" and "3".

    You need to disassemble the whole thing. Push the rod until it comes out over the crown. Put the spacer on the rod, put it back in, reassemble.

    My site has nothing related to shortening a fork, neither I implied it would. I meant to make a search on other travel change threads.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Fork and Shock Service Information-omegatnl100.jpg  

    Check my Site

  4. #29
    rebmem rbtm
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    Edited to remove dead links
    Last edited by cobba; 06-25-2013 at 10:43 PM. Reason: Remove dead links.

  5. #30
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    This Thread ROCKS.


    Thank You!




    .

  6. #31
    rebmem rbtm
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    Edited to remove dead links.
    Last edited by cobba; 06-25-2013 at 10:47 PM. Reason: Remove dead links.

  7. #32
    AZ Mountain Biking Member
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    Spring Grease for Boxxer?

    Manual says grease but can someone specify what to use when installing new springs? My stock spring is covered in red grease from the factory.

    Will this work: Red Devil all purpose grease, 16oz tub

  8. #33
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    Problem in FOX DHX AIR 5.0

    Hello,

    I need help.
    I have a FOX DHX 5.0 AIR.
    open 3 times and does not solve the problem.
    When I put the damper on the bike and go for a walk (in the street) after a few down, he loses the operation of the return.
    Service on the bench it works.
    Do you have any information to solve this problem.
    You have the exploded view.

  9. #34
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    Can repairing my fork wait?

    How soon after my fork starts to leak do i need to fix it. can it wait a week or so?

  10. #35
    Huckin' trails
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    Quote Originally Posted by gtruman22 View Post
    How soon after my fork starts to leak do i need to fix it. can it wait a week or so?
    Sooner the better. Like your car having a bad leak in his radiator and need service.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by gtruman22 View Post
    How soon after my fork starts to leak do i need to fix it. can it wait a week or so?
    depending how bad the leak is and the reason its leaking, yes, you can wait a week.

  12. #37
    Retread soul rider
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    bicycle fork grease

    Quote Originally Posted by niche77 View Post
    Manual says grease but can someone specify what to use when installing new springs? My stock spring is covered in red grease from the factory.

    Will this work: Red Devil all purpose grease, 16oz tub
    Since you won't use much at a time, and not that often, but performance counts a lot in how happy you'll be with your suspension fork...I strongly recommend that you use a grease that is specific to bicycle forks.

    I've used Judy Butter and Slickhoney with good results. Here's a short thread on the subject: Reccomend Fork grease

    You can also search for lithium grease to find horror-ish stories from peeps who used all-purpose grease. One thing to remember is that the coil lubrication grease will be in contact with the fork oil in many suspension designs. The wrong grease may tend to mix with/dissolve into the fork oil and thereby change the viscosity and/or resistance to compression properties (among others) of the oil. As a result, damping performance could be less than optimal.

    Good luck! Bike suspension tuning has been a fun and rewarding learning experience for me.

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Warp View Post
    If your fork is like the attached pic, you need to remove spacer "1-3" and put it between "2" and "3".

    You need to disassemble the whole thing. Push the rod until it comes out over the crown. Put the spacer on the rod, put it back in, reassemble.

    My site has nothing related to shortening a fork, neither I implied it would. I meant to make a search on other travel change threads.
    I love you for this. I just picked up an RST Omega TnL and will be giving this a try this weekend.

  14. #39
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    Mojo HD & 2011 Fox Float 160/36 RLC FIT problem - need advice

    I weigh around 155 lb with gear. My Mojo 160 HD (size: Small) w/ 2012 Fox Float 160/36 FIT Kashima fork is definitely "broken in" (100+ hours.) I have tried every conceivable psi adjustment (& varying clicks of rebound) trying to get 25% sag and full travel, to no avail. While I am able to achieve 25% sag & full travel on my classic carbon Mojo with a 150 Talas FIT on some drops, it seems impossible on my HD; if I set air to 25-30 psi I do get 25% sag, but the stanchions do not fully extend! I mean more than a centimeter of stanchion remains inside legs after rebound (this is with no weight on bike - I can manually pull the fork out more than 1 cm); on the other hand if I put enough air in the fork so that stanchions extend out fully (again, with no weight on bike) I can't get close to full travel even on decent-size hits (the same hits that I am able to get full travel with on my ccMojo/150 Talas FIT, mentioned above) - I mean the best I can get, and this is with around 45-50 lb psi, is maybe 125 mm of travel. And even with 45-50 psi, the fork isn't quite fully extended - I can still pull stanchions out 0.5 cm - I have to air it up to around 60 psi to get it fully extended to 160 mm with no weight on bike.

    Is there anything I can do?? Do I just not weigh enough for this fork to operate properly? I love the HD but I need to get more than 120 mm travel on the technical drops. If I run around 25-30 psi I get 25% sag and close to full travel, but then the fork isn't even extended all the way out with no weight on bike, which is just wrong. Is there some 160/36 fork out there that will let me achieve full travel at my weight? thanks in advance. -jackson
    Last edited by jacksonoreillyjunior; 11-26-2011 at 08:08 AM.

  15. #40
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    Psylo SL : Worth fixing

    Looks like the right side bushings are starting to go. Seems like nobody works on these things. Should I try to fix it (I love the Lockout and externally adjustable travel) or just ride it till it gives out, then buy something else?

    Thoughts and recommendations for where to get fixed or similar to buy are appreciated.

    Phil

  16. #41
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    Love this thread!

  17. #42
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    Having issues with my Kona Fastrax on my tanuki dl. My manual is one piece of paper and there is nothing online about. Anyone have any experience?

  18. #43
    aka DJ Papi
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    Hello. Anyone out there have Cannondale Lefty service manuals? or any links to Cannondale Lefty servce?

  19. #44
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    I want to upgrade my front forks on my focus. Currently have rst omega trl forks not my choice. They are pretty good at bottoming out. Im looking something I can put lockout on. Been looking at rockshox recon gold and sektor rl 140mm travel with poploc. Reba I like but bit to expensive. I ride on road and through woods and trails. Nothing to drastic. But want something that works well.

    Any help much appreciatedb
    Last edited by sjb2711; 03-01-2012 at 03:10 PM.

  20. #45
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    Hi all, I'm a first time user on here so go easy
    Can someone help, I have a Romic shock on my frame but it really needs a service, I'm in the U.K so was wondering if someone out there new where I can send it as I love the shock as its so plush.
    So far I'm banging my head against a wall so I thought I'd ask the people who really no.
    Help me please ?

  21. #46
    "El Whatever"
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    Quote Originally Posted by tysonnayden View Post
    Hi all, I'm a first time user on here so go easy
    Can someone help, I have a Romic shock on my frame but it really needs a service, I'm in the U.K so was wondering if someone out there new where I can send it as I love the shock as its so plush.
    So far I'm banging my head against a wall so I thought I'd ask the people who really no.
    Help me please ?
    Try TF Tuned in the UK (Bicycle Suspension - TF Tuned Shox).

    Or send it back to its home for some love and care. Romic is still servicing these shocks.
    Romic MFG, Inc.
    Check my Site

  22. #47
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    Romic

    I called TF Tuned and they said "we can't source the parts for that shock so we have stopped servicing them",
    Sending it back to Romicmfg may be a slight problem as from the re-search I have done has all but shown the company has either gone back to its core business (vehicle shocks) or has ceased trading. I'm confused as to what has happend, I've emailed them, I even called them from the uk and got a recorded message saying the number no longer exist's ? The company name no longer exists over there office building in cal. (Google Lattitude)
    So from all that I'm not sure if I want to send it to them as i may not see it again.....
    Anyone out there no any more that could help please ?
    Thankyou

    Ride Hard, Ride Safe. Carpe Diem.

  23. #48
    Huckin' trails
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    You could always service it yourself. Is it a coil or air shock ?
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  24. #49
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    It's a coil shock, oil and nitrogen, 150psi with no bleed valves. It blew oil 30ft in the air during a clean (i needed a shower ! Lol) how they build them in factory I have no idea.
    Servicing it myself, I wouldn't have a clue how or where to begin, a Marzocchi Roco R (what I'm running in the mean time) no problems but the Romic is something I don't want to play with unless I new how ?
    Has anyone done it themselves ? Is it possible ?
    Thanks

    Ride Hard. Ride Safe. Carpe Diem !

  25. #50
    Huckin' trails
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    Quote Originally Posted by tysonnayden View Post
    It's a coil shock, oil and nitrogen, 150psi with no bleed valves. It blew oil 30ft in the air during a clean (i needed a shower ! Lol) how they build them in factory I have no idea.
    Servicing it myself, I wouldn't have a clue how or where to begin, a Marzocchi Roco R (what I'm running in the mean time) no problems but the Romic is something I don't want to play with unless I new how ?
    Has anyone done it themselves ? Is it possible ?
    Thanks

    Ride Hard. Ride Safe. Carpe Diem !
    Well, I'm by no mean an expert at this, but I had to service my 12 years old RS SID rear shock (air shock) this week. I couldn't find any place where they would do it and the only part I could find was a 3 piece kit that included a dust wiper, main o-ring and a glide ring. I had the service manual in pdf and that was all. So I just remove the air from the can, remove the can, depressurize the internal floating piston (ifp) using a hypodermic needle and then unscrew the main seal head to remove the old oil and pour new one in. Then put back the seal head, re pressurize the ifp with air (or nitrogen if available), put back the air can and air the shock. Luckily, I didn't had to change any parts. Just clean the old oil and lube and put new one in.

    Now for your col shock, it should be pretty much the same except my air can would be your coil. Remove the coil, depressurize the ifp, remove the seal head, change oil, put back seal head (the main piston rod), re pressurize the ifp with a shock pump or nitrogen and tadam !

    Of course, it's a bit more technical than that, but it's pretty much the guideline for servicing a rear shock.

    Now if you need new parts, you could always source o-rings from your hardware store, but rod wiper and glide ring might be more a problem to find.

    For my needle, I used a medical hypodermic needle screwed into a presta adaptor and cut to fit into my shock pump schrader head. See the pics.

    Best thing to do is get as much info on that shock and where you could possibly get parts or help if something goes wrong. Then only start when you have everything and all the tools needed. You might also need to set the ifp height before you pour new oil. That's why having the service manual is handy. The height of the ifp can be changed by adding more air or releasing some after you depressurize the ifp.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Fork and Shock Service Information-_dsc5955_web.jpg  

    Fork and Shock Service Information-_dsc5958_web.jpg  

    Fork and Shock Service Information-_dsc5959_web.jpg  

    Fork and Shock Service Information-_dsc5961_web.jpg  

    Fork and Shock Service Information-_dsc5964_web.jpg  

    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

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