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  1. #1
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    F120 RLC, SID 120 15QR, Reba...

    Arrgh.. Even after reading all that was written around teh interwebz, I still can not pull a trigger and order a damn fork.

    Fox F120 15QR, 2011, Kashima stanchions..
    SID 120 15QR, 2011
    Reba XX with Maxle 20mm and Xloc - no use in Xloc, cheaper, but heavier...

    I wanted Magura Durin, but they do not do 15mm or 20mm. Decided that it is time to stop using QR.

    I do care about weight.. and performance..

    Agony of choice.

  2. #2
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    heard good things about the kashima coated fox fork... plus, i like fox forks

    go with that one

  3. #3
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    I gave giving myself a headache about which fork to get and decided on a RS Revelation RLT Ti. . . I think, oh crap I don't know what I am doing either.

    I kinda think you can't go wrong with any one of the high end forks now a days. There are bad things written about every fork out there. with so many getting produced there are goin got be few lemons around.

    The X Fusion Velvet looks good too. Light, pimp internals, 15 TA, and Cheap.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flboy
    The X Fusion Velvet looks good too. Light, pimp internals, 15 TA, and Cheap.
    I got 100mm open QR Velvet RL for a beater/training bike recently - did not have a chance to ride it yet. Rain. It was about 100g over quoted weight. It seems well made.

    I have not seen 130/120 15QR up for sale yet. It is probably around Reba's weight.

    This is for a semi weenie bike for adventure racing and longer distance riding. Being plush and easy on wrists over many hours is important.

  5. #5
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    weight loss is very little. I have SLR's, so the 15 mm fox axle with nut weighs about 100 g. Stock Mavic Ti skewers with 15>9 mm adapters weighs 49 g. So I've got aprox 51 g of rigidity and control
    Thinking that Fox will be much stiffer than SID.
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  6. #6
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    Or maybe I should just go for Durin Marathon as planned - with Hadley 9mm through axle and Hope 9mm TA adapters. With Magura lowers should be stiffer then 15mm Fox and SID, about as safe...

    And I can plop weenie wheel with skinnier tire and Halo bolt-up skewer from my hardtail when used on smooth roads...

  7. #7
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    Thinking fox would be stiffer than Durin. It's not depended only for arch. Thinking that fox stanchions and crown is way better than Durin. Otherwise, Durin is more race type fork, Fox forks much plusher.
    My setup is SLR rims, Fox 120 15 mm, WCS stem, Specialized 600 mm OS bars. When I'm trying to crumple it with locked fork, I see than only my bar flexes little bit. The wheel on axle stays calm differently when there is 9 mm QR O_o
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  8. #8
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    I haven't had a chance to look into a Magura fork yet, but based on experience I would go with Fox. When properly maintained and with proper seals they'll last forever and perform great.

    That said, I've seen pictures of the X-Fusion damper and internals, and they look top notch; it really did surprise me.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by painless
    Thinking fox would be stiffer than Durin. It's not depended only for arch. Thinking that fox stanchions and crown is way better than Durin. Otherwise, Durin is more race type fork, Fox forks much plusher.
    According to some actual tests Magura lowers are significantly stiffer for torsion.

    From 2008 bike magazine test:
    Fox F 100 RLC = torsional 21.7, braking - 171.2, weight -1573
    Magura Durin 100 = torsional 29.1, braking - 160.4, weight - 1510

    My unscientific testing agrees - they are very stiff for its weight - I have Wotan and Laurin. And very plush, closest thing to coil I have ridden among air forks. With a Hadley 9mm bolt should be even better - but I do not want to buy any more 9mm dropout forks.

    Yeah, if I get Fox a pair of Enduro seals will be ordered.

  10. #10
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    Realy needed these?
    I've tried Enduro seals. They are good, tight, serve long. But I feel some stiction using them. Sometimes it doesn't hold the oil from inside. Damper oils changed, seals are lubed from inside with grease, finish line stanchion lube also used. No such a feeling using normal seals.
    I get wet and dirty condition only for couple of time during the season. I don't train in the rain because of risk to get an ill. Riding in these condinios only during the cometition or get the rain during the training. So for me there is enouph of stock fox seals. If you ride in lot of wet and muddy conditions, yes, enduro is the right choice.

    P.S. Can you give link or somethin to these tests, please?
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by painless
    Realy needed these?
    I've tried Enduro seals. They are good, tight, serve long. But I feel some stiction using them. Sometimes it doesn't hold the oil from inside. Damper oils changed, seals are lubed from inside with grease, finish line stanchion lube also used. No such a feeling using normal seals.
    I get wet and dirty condition only for couple of time during the season. I don't train in the rain because of risk to get an ill. Riding in these condinios only during the cometition or get the rain during the training. So for me there is enouph of stock fox seals. If you ride in lot of wet and muddy conditions, yes, enduro is the right choice.
    The latest generation of Enduro seals have solved the stiction issue. In my opinion they are as smooth, if not smoother, than the stock Fox seals.

    Even in dry riding I recommend Enduro seals as they simply do a better job keeping the dirt out the oil in, which is key for fork longevity.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by painless
    P.S. Can you give link or somethin to these tests, please?
    Scanned pages and summaries had been posted around here. For example in the middle of this thread: Forks: QR vs. QR-15 - measurements by Bike-magazine. I am as skeptical about some quantified tests as anybody, but they do tell a big part of the story. Magura's dual arch lowers indeed feel like a very stiff design - at least for steering precision.

    Those newer two piece Enduro seals are indeed much better. Use'em everywhere.

  13. #13
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    I have decided to go with a fixed travel 120mm Durin Marathon - and Hadley 9mm bolt for axle. I am happy with my other Magura's, used to adjustments, and 9mm bolt should be stiff and safe enough for this particular bike. Total conversion to 15 and 20 will wait a little - already switched to 20mm on two longer travel bikes I have. Easier to deal with less brands in the house.

    Weight is about the same, with bolt included, as 15QR SID and F120. So I guess overall strength is also similar. Nice that unlike SID it is approved up to 210mm rotors (I will use 180). $100 cheaper as well.

    If I am not happy - this will eventually go to my wife's bike, and I will get 20mm Reba or something. But I think it should work OK for this use.

  14. #14
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    One thing to consider, if you already have 20mm on your other bikes, going with 20mm on this one will allow swapping of parts.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by bad mechanic
    One thing to consider, if you already have 20mm on your other bikes, going with 20mm on this one will allow swapping of parts.
    I have three Hope Pro 2 front wheels, that can be swapped to 9mm through bolt in 20 seconds. If I decide to ride a super D or something. I also have a Nukeproof wheel with MTX 29 rims and old Formula 20mm hub with Singletracks, which would not be going on this bike. The only other front wheel I have is a weenie 9mm with some weenie tire from my weenie bike - and I can use it as well, with a Halo bolt-on skewer.

    Long term, yes, I think I will be forced to standardize on 20 and 15mm. That is not a bad thing though.

  16. #16
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    9mm bolt for axle is also good choice. I've tried bike with DT Swiss mm thru bolt. Stiff as a rock. Litteraly I wouldn't notice any difference between 9mm bolt and 15mm QR.
    Good to see the choice for stiffnes rather than weight
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  17. #17
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    I am a 205 pound cross-country rider/racer from Georgia. So, my fork doesn’t get abused out in Colorado on super rocky, steep descents. It gets beat on little in NC a few times of year, but otherwise gets relatively light duty. I have always ridden Fox forks and never really thought about riding anything else. However, I am now done with Fox and never going back.

    I have had an F120 for three years. During those three years the crown/stanchion junctions have started to loosen and creak THREE times, and I had a dust wiper seal fail after three months. The ride of the fork is fantastic, but I just can’t tolerate the irritation, missed rides/races, and expense of this thing constantly needing to have the uppers replaced and otherwise be serviced.

    To Fox’s credit, they warrantied it the first two times (with a quick turnaround), but refused to warranty it this time because non-stock dust wipers had been installed. First, the dust wipers have absolutely nothing to do with the shoddy crown junctions. Second, the non-stock dust wipers were installed because the Fox ones were problematic.

    Just wanted to pass along my experience. I have an RP23 and love it. I’ll keep riding it as long as I can, and I would highly recommend it. However, I would tell people, especially larger riders, to be very, very wary of Fox forks. I have had a number of very knowledgeable individuals (including persons employed by a certain shock service company in Colorado) tell me that Rockshox makes a superior product that is much more durable and reliable.

    Finally, for people like me with two 15mm wheelsets who don’t want to go back to 9mm, you can wait until 2012 when the Reba’s are coming out in 15mm or you can have Push step down a Revelation to 120mm, and once it’s Pushed it will ride like a cross-country race forks if that’s what you ask them for.

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