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  1. #1
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    Confused about low end Suntour suspension forks

    Most bikes in my budget come with low end suspension forks. Mostly they are Suntour.

    Does anyone know the difference and what series of suntour forks are better?

    I have seen the following:

    XCM V2

    XCM V3

    XCT V2

    XCR


    They all seem low end but what makes one different than the other besides travel?

  2. #2
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    Here ya go...

    XCT

    XCR

    XCM
    I'm a member of NSMBA and IMBA Canada

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by rockyuphill
    Here ya go...

    XCT

    XCR

    XCM

    Thanks for the links but this doesn't explain much to a noob like myself. I have already been to their site. That is why I am asking hear because it doesn't explain to me the difference or what is better.

    It seems like they rank from from best to worst:

    XCR
    XCM
    XCT

  4. #4
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    I wonder what "momocoque" construction means.

    Don't worry about it. I've heard that Suntour's forks are better than RST's forks, which is nice. But think of it as more of a placeholder. Sooner or later, you'll break it or it'll freeze, and then you can replace it with either a rigid or a "real" fork.

    Just ride some bikes and buy your favorite. I bet you won't be able to feel the difference between different Suntour forks.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  5. #5
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    My '05 Fuji came with a higher-end Suntour and it was no good from the start--no rebound dampening, no adjustments except for air pressure. When you weight 230, like me, plush isn't an option.

    If you are looking to upgrade, save your dough for something better. You will get what you pay for.

  6. #6
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    Here you go

    Doug from SR Suntour here. The hierarchy from low to high would be XCT, XCM, XCR. V2, V3 has to do with the 'version'. higher number is newer generation.

    Forks specified by different bicycle brands can be configured in a number of different ways, so its hard for me to understand exactly what you are looking at, that being said;

    Our XCM and XCR models come with 30mm stanchions. ( the upper tubes) if you compare this to other forks in the price range, many of our competitors will often use 28mm stanchions. Larger diameter = improved stiffness and strength. Also, the pitch, or width of these two forks is 130mm. You will find that to be a bit wider than many of our competitors. Generally speaking, wider is better.

    Second, our XCM and XCR models are what we call QSP, or quick service products. That means if your fork's internals ever wear out our suffer a problem, the fork can be fixed easily by replacing the entire cartridge.

    Finally, if you are shopping for a bike that is less than $1,000 I'm sure you have seen that many of those bikes are equipped with SR Suntour forks. The primary reasons for this are based on the fact that the bicycle brands have come to trust SR Suntour to supply them with a reliable product that performs well. (that may seem simple, but its a big deal) Additionally, we operate service centers in North America, Asia and Europe to back up our product.

    I hope this helps and good luck in purchasing a new bike. Ride it alot!

    Doug

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by freshw00d
    Doug from SR Suntour here. The hierarchy from low to high would be XCT, XCM, XCR. V2, V3 has to do with the 'version'. higher number is newer generation.

    Forks specified by different bicycle brands can be configured in a number of different ways, so its hard for me to understand exactly what you are looking at, that being said;

    Our XCM and XCR models come with 30mm stanchions. ( the upper tubes) if you compare this to other forks in the price range, many of our competitors will often use 28mm stanchions. Larger diameter = improved stiffness and strength. Also, the pitch, or width of these two forks is 130mm. You will find that to be a bit wider than many of our competitors. Generally speaking, wider is better.

    Second, our XCM and XCR models are what we call QSP, or quick service products. That means if your fork's internals ever wear out our suffer a problem, the fork can be fixed easily by replacing the entire cartridge.

    Finally, if you are shopping for a bike that is less than $1,000 I'm sure you have seen that many of those bikes are equipped with SR Suntour forks. The primary reasons for this are based on the fact that the bicycle brands have come to trust SR Suntour to supply them with a reliable product that performs well. (that may seem simple, but its a big deal) Additionally, we operate service centers in North America, Asia and Europe to back up our product.

    I hope this helps and good luck in purchasing a new bike. Ride it alot!

    Doug
    Thanks Doug. You helped out a lot.

  8. #8
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    Wow - I'd have thought that someone from Suntour could have shed a little more light than that on what is a VERY confusing product lineup.

    I have the Dart 3 29er 100mm fork (28mm stanchions) on my bike and my son has the Suntour XCR-LO 100mm on his 2009 Avalanche 2.0. Adjustable rebound and a blow-off valve on the lockout with the Dart 3 are pluses. On the other hand, the 30mm stanchions, better compression dampening and VERY slick progressive lockout lever on the XCR-LO make it a better fork in my opinion. I know, I know - everyone slams the Dart so saying "better than a Dart" seems like damning with faint praise. However, all Tora forks except the Tora 318's (Motion Control) have an unsophisticated TurnKey dampener, steel stanchions and non-serviceable bushings - just like a Dart fork. Most coil versions of the Tora lack adjustable preload which the Dart 3 has and several Tora models are missing a lockout feature which, again, the Dart 3 has. The major thing that separates all Tora forks from all Dart forks is 32mm-diameter stanchion tubes vs 28mm. Not that I think a Dart 3 is all that great, it's just that I think most Tora forks aren't that great either and that a Suntour XCR can be a pretty good fork - especially given it's low price.

    Perhaps the best way to get a handle on the features available in various SR Suntour forks is via this link: SR Suntour Tuning Base

    Bike manufacturers and Suntour themselves are often less than clear about what you're buying. My guess is that many consumers - after sampling the horrible Suntour M2025 pogo fork that comes on nearly every entry-level bike these days - write off the entire Suntour brand as junk but that's hardly the case. You can look through the exploded views of Suntour forks using the above site to get a better idea of what each model's properties are.

    It doesn't help that Suntour makes many dozens of forks all with cryptic codes:

    SF10 = Suntour Fork and the "10" is the model year
    then comes the fork family (XCM, XCT, XCR, Epicon, NCX, etc)
    then comes the fork's feature codes:
    ...P = Post-mount brakes
    ...D = Disc brake mounts
    ...D-P = Disc mount and Post-mount brakes
    ...E = ????
    ...DS = ????
    ...MLO = Mechanical Lock Out
    ...HLO = Hydraulic Lock Out
    ...RLO = Remote Lock Out
    ...LOD = yet another type of lock out unit?
    sometimes there is a size (20, 24 or 26-inch wheel)
    then usually comes a travel or travel range
    sometimes there is an axle spec 15QLC or 20QLC (15mm or 20mm thru axle)

    Not easy to figure out what you're spending your money on. Curiously, I haven't found that Suntour lists a range of springs for different rider weights. Unless you're of average weight, it would be nice to know before you buy any bike with a coil fork that a lighter/heavier spring is, or is not, available, no?

    Perhaps Doug from Suntour can elaborate on what all those cryptic product codes mean and explain what the situation is with obtaining alternative-rate springs? What separates the NCX, Axom, Radion and Eipcon forks from other Suntour forks?
    Last edited by Clones123; 09-04-2010 at 05:14 PM.
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clones123
    Wow - I'd have thought that someone from Suntour could have shed a little more light than that on what is a VERY confusing product lineup.

    I have the Dart 3 29er 100mm fork (28mm stanchions) on my bike and my son has the Suntour XCR-LO 100mm on his 2009 Avalanche 2.0. Adjustable rebound and a blow-off valve on the lockout with the Dart 3 are pluses. On the other hand, the 30mm stanchions, better compression dampening and VERY slick progressive lockout lever on the XCR-LO make it a better fork in my opinion. I know, I know - everyone slams the Dart so saying "better than a Dart" seems like damning with faint praise. However, all Tora forks except the Tora 318's (Motion Control) have an unsophisticated TurnKey dampener, steel stanchions and non-serviceable bushings - just like a Dart fork. Most coil versions of the Tora lack adjustable preload which the Dart 3 has and several Tora models are missing a lockout feature which, again, the Dart 3 has. The major thing that separates all Tora forks from all Dart forks is 32mm-diameter stanchion tubes vs 28mm. Not that I think a Dart 3 is all that great, it's just that I think most Tora forks aren't that great either and that a Suntour XCR can be a pretty good fork - especially given it's low price.

    Perhaps the best way to get a handle on the features available in various SR Suntour forks is via this link: SR Suntour Tuning Base

    Bike manufacturers and Suntour themselves are often less than clear about what you're buying. My guess is that many consumers - after sampling the horrible Suntour M2025 pogo fork that comes on nearly every entry-level bike these days - write off the entire Suntour brand as junk but that's hardly the case. You can look through the exploded views of Suntour forks using the above site to get a better idea of what each model's properties are.

    It doesn't help that Suntour makes many dozens of forks all with cryptic codes:

    SF10 = Suntour Fork and the "10" is the model year
    then comes the fork family (XCM, XCT, XCR, Epicon, NCX, etc)
    then comes the fork's feature codes:
    ...P = Post-mount brakes
    ...D = Disc brake mounts
    ...D-P = Disc mount and Post-mount brakes
    ...E = ????
    ...DS = ????
    ...MLO = Mechanical Lock Out
    ...HLO = Hydraulic Lock Out
    ...RLO = Remote Lock Out
    ...LOD = yet another type of lock out unit?
    sometimes there is a size (20, 24 or 26-inch wheel)
    then usually comes a travel or travel range
    sometimes there is an axle spec 15QLC or 20QLC (15mm or 20mm thru axle)

    Not easy to figure out what you're spending your money on. Curiously, I haven't found that Suntour lists a range of springs for different rider weights. Unless you're of average weight, it would be nice to know before you buy any bike with a coil fork that a lighter/heavier spring is, or is not, available, no?

    Perhaps Doug from Suntour can elaborate on what all those cryptic product codes mean and explain what the situation is with obtaining alternative-rate springs? What separates the NCX, Axom, Radion and Eipcon forks from other Suntour forks?
    Great info!

  10. #10
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    Does Suntour make the Rockshox brand? Seems like I read that somewhere recently, but I can't put my finger on where.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonathanGennick
    Does Suntour make the Rockshox brand?
    RockShox is owned by SRAM: http://www.sram.com/rockshox

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonathanGennick
    Does Suntour make the Rockshox brand? Seems like I read that somewhere recently, but I can't put my finger on where.
    Suntour and Marzochhi are together I believe. Spinner made some of The RS stuff untill 2006ish. Now Spinner is on its own and that is why you pretty much dont see spinner in america anymore.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clones123
    RockShox is owned by SRAM: http://www.sram.com/rockshox
    Right, but I don't think SRAM actually makes anything. Someone else pointed out that Spinner used to make some of the Rockshox-branded forks.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by mullen119
    Suntour and Marzochhi are together I believe. Spinner made some of The RS stuff untill 2006ish. Now Spinner is on its own and that is why you pretty much dont see spinner in america anymore.
    So who makes Rockshox now?

    If older Rockshox is really Spinner, then maybe a Spinner fork wouldn't be such a bad thing.

  15. #15
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    For me, a good fork is something with relatively stiff stanchions, tunable spring rate and sag, and a rebound damper. I really like having a compression damper, but I don't think it's necessary to make the experience of riding with suspension better than the experience of riding rigid. I think the other stuff is. Finally, a fork should be sturdy enough to take anything wheels-on-the-ground riding throws at it, and the occasional largish jump onto a good transition or drop of a foot or two.

    It's shockingly easy to rule out quite a lot of what's on the market just with those few conditions - a lot of the low end forks don't have spring kits available, which means that spring rate's not tunable. Rebound dampers are a bit trickier, since most forks sold now claim to have them - you really have to read reviews and see if they work. And they may work for lighter riders but not heavier ones.

    If I was looking for a fork for a loaner or tight-budget bike, I might be open to something from Suntour, Spinner or even RST. But I'd need to know I could get the spring kit to make it work for my weight, and I'd need to be able to read reviews and not find a lot of people saying "I couldn't tell if the rebound damper did anything" or "I landed a small jump and shoved the compression rod right through the stanchion. Little metal things went everywhere!" Actually, plastic caps on the crown might kill the deal for me too.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  16. #16
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    I've ridden a few Cannondales with RST Deuce's and those forks felt pretty good. Air adjustable, 32mm stanchions, and aesthetically appealing. What is your budget for a bike? I might be able to help you out.
    Quote Originally Posted by anthonys
    Its still just the push of a button away...
    I am no longer a hardtailkid. 2012 Trek Remedy 9!

  17. #17
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    I ran across this post by a guy who found different springs for his Suntour fork:
    http://www.bikeradar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=15991688

    Hunting around some, I found that the XCM forks appear to have 30mm stanchions (28mm on older versions and with a clunky On/off lockout) and aluminum lowers while the XCR forks are 30mm with magnesium lowers. Other than that they seem pretty much the same.
    Last edited by Clones123; 09-11-2010 at 03:22 PM.
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  18. #18
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    Codes, etc

    Quote Originally Posted by Clones123
    Wow - I'd have thought that someone from Suntour could have shed a little more light than that on what is a VERY confusing product lineup.

    I have the Dart 3 29er 100mm fork (28mm stanchions) on my bike and my son has the Suntour XCR-LO 100mm on his 2009 Avalanche 2.0. Adjustable rebound and a blow-off valve on the lockout with the Dart 3 are pluses. On the other hand, the 30mm stanchions, better compression dampening and VERY slick progressive lockout lever on the XCR-LO make it a better fork in my opinion. I know, I know - everyone slams the Dart so saying "better than a Dart" seems like damning with faint praise. However, all Tora forks except the Tora 318's (Motion Control) have an unsophisticated TurnKey dampener, steel stanchions and non-serviceable bushings - just like a Dart fork. Most coil versions of the Tora lack adjustable preload which the Dart 3 has and several Tora models are missing a lockout feature which, again, the Dart 3 has. The major thing that separates all Tora forks from all Dart forks is 32mm-diameter stanchion tubes vs 28mm. Not that I think a Dart 3 is all that great, it's just that I think most Tora forks aren't that great either and that a Suntour XCR can be a pretty good fork - especially given it's low price.

    Perhaps the best way to get a handle on the features available in various SR Suntour forks is via this link: SR Suntour Tuning Base

    Bike manufacturers and Suntour themselves are often less than clear about what you're buying. My guess is that many consumers - after sampling the horrible Suntour M2025 pogo fork that comes on nearly every entry-level bike these days - write off the entire Suntour brand as junk but that's hardly the case. You can look through the exploded views of Suntour forks using the above site to get a better idea of what each model's properties are.

    It doesn't help that Suntour makes many dozens of forks all with cryptic codes:

    SF10 = Suntour Fork and the "10" is the model year
    then comes the fork family (XCM, XCT, XCR, Epicon, NCX, etc)
    then comes the fork's feature codes:
    ...P = Post-mount brakes
    ...D = Disc brake mounts
    ...D-P = Disc mount and Post-mount brakes
    ...E = ????
    ...DS = ????
    ...MLO = Mechanical Lock Out
    ...HLO = Hydraulic Lock Out
    ...RLO = Remote Lock Out
    ...LOD = yet another type of lock out unit?
    sometimes there is a size (20, 24 or 26-inch wheel)
    then usually comes a travel or travel range
    sometimes there is an axle spec 15QLC or 20QLC (15mm or 20mm thru axle)

    Not easy to figure out what you're spending your money on. Curiously, I haven't found that Suntour lists a range of springs for different rider weights. Unless you're of average weight, it would be nice to know before you buy any bike with a coil fork that a lighter/heavier spring is, or is not, available, no?

    Perhaps Doug from Suntour can elaborate on what all those cryptic product codes mean and explain what the situation is with obtaining alternative-rate springs? What separates the NCX, Axom, Radion and Eipcon forks from other Suntour forks?
    Hi, Doug from SR Suntour here again. Here are some answers to your questions:

    ...E = ???? - versus D - Typically E is chromoly stanchions and steerer versus D which is STKM stanchions and steerer

    ...DS = ???? - Don't know at the moment.

    LOD - this means Lock-out with Rebound Damping

    In our 'system; R typically stands for Remote and D stands for Damping, but is really rebound damping.

    NCX = 700c city bike fork
    Axon = short travel XC Race fork
    Radon = short to mid-travel general purpose fork
    Epicon = mid-travel Trail to All-Mountain fork

    Finally, I am hopeful that in the coming months/years you will see improved consumer based communications from our company so that it is easier to understand the features and performance of our products.

    Thanks.................Doug

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by freshw00d
    Hi, Doug from SR Suntour here again. Here are some answers to your questions:

    ...E = ???? - versus D - Typically E is chromoly stanchions and steerer versus D which is STKM stanchions and steerer

    ...DS = ???? - Don't know at the moment.

    LOD - this means Lock-out with Rebound Damping

    In our 'system; R typically stands for Remote and D stands for Damping, but is really rebound damping.

    NCX = 700c city bike fork
    Axon = short travel XC Race fork
    Radon = short to mid-travel general purpose fork
    Epicon = mid-travel Trail to All-Mountain fork

    Finally, I am hopeful that in the coming months/years you will see improved consumer based communications from our company so that it is easier to understand the features and performance of our products.

    Thanks.................Doug
    Hi Doug,

    Are either of these forks Hydraulic?

    SF11-XCR MLO 29'

    SF11-XCM V3 MLO 26'

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonathanGennick
    So who makes Rockshox now?

    If older Rockshox is really Spinner, then maybe a Spinner fork wouldn't be such a bad thing.
    Having a spinner fork in the united states is a bad thing. For some reason, they only send there junk here. The spinner grind, eagle, other forks you find on low end entry level bikes are junk. The spinner aeris and cargo are decent forks. I use to have a cargo air that I got off ebay and it worked really well. It had 100-140mm adjustable travel, a thresh hold lock out that work like the flood gate on the newer RS stuff, and rebound. it was heavy at 5.4lbs but worked pretty well. The aeris is a sub 4lbs fork (One version I think is 2.9lbs.) With a decent damper. Problem is you cant find these forks very easy in the US and finding parts for them is almost impossible.

    http://www.cycletaiwan.com/shop/inde...d=68&Itemid=73

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by joepa150
    Are either of these forks Hydraulic?

    SF11-XCR MLO 29'

    SF11-XCM V3 MLO 26'
    I don't think that Doug Stuart monitors this board daily. You'd be better off e-mailing him directly if you have a question. You'd think it would be easier to just go to the source anyway but...

    SF11-XCR MLO 29'
    http://www.srsuntour-cycling.com/SID...tail&tnid=3082
    Related Exploded View: SF9-XCR LO
    http://www.srsuntour-cycling.com/cus...SF9-XCR-LO.pdf


    SF11-XCM V3 MLO 26'
    http://www.srsuntour-cycling.com/SID...tail&tnid=2886
    Related Exploded View: SF10-XCM V2 DS PM 26
    http://www.srsuntour-cycling.com/cus...26-80%2610.pdf

    Unfortunately, Suntour's documentation is as confusing as it's product lineup. The 2011 XCR has a related exploded view of a 2009 fork which shows the expected dampener cartridge. Meanwhile, the 2011 XCM links to an exploded view of a 2010 fork clearly showing only a spring & friction dampener in the right leg which surprises me. I wasn't previously aware of any current XCM forks without a hydraulic dampener.

    I think you'd need to e-mail Doug at Suntour to get a straight answer on your question.

  22. #22
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    Dan,
    I have a SR Mag 32 on my GT Force. It has been fantastic and really plush. Honestly I have broken every thing on this bike but the fork has been perfect.

    I don't know if you can tell me this but is it the OEM Epicon? which model ? I am trying to do some service on it(off your website and want to know which model it is).

    Also a really dumb question but the rebound adjust. Do I need a special nob? It didn't come with one. How do I make it rebound quicker?
    Thanks,
    Mike

  23. #23
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    Any new insights on the Suntour forks? I just got a catalog and the newest XCR forks don't look too bad for the price.

  24. #24
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    HELLo-:

    Just bought SR Raidon 29" air RLO QR15... will be on the bike by the weekend so will post the ride update. Seems to be good quality straight from the box, interesting QR though!

    Doug: I've found some info on Greyville(UK distributor) that you can extend the travel to 120mm. Can that be done at LBS or does it need to be sent out to Service Centre and some new parts has to be fitted?

  25. #25
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    HELLo-:

    Sr Raidon 29er fitted to my DiamondBack Mojito, ridden it a few times in different terrain and all I can say about the fork: I'm impressed! It's not too heavy, works well, adjustments DO make the difference(unlike some other cheaper Suntours or RSTs) it doesn't flex when cornering or under heavy braking...the only thing I'm not 100% sure about is the QR.
    Bottom line: if you're on a budget or need suspension forks for your "second" bike, ride with Raidon...

    Regards!

  26. #26
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    I'd be happy if I could find the weight for comparison purposes. My Marin has an XCR-LO-29
    Found the weight it just states 2275 without a unit of measure I thought maybe 2275 was a model or something so I've got a 5 pound fork on the front of my bike. Hmm for a grand I can drop a whole pound upgrading to a Fox. I'm thinking its not worth the money.
    Marin 29er
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    The weight of my Raidon is 2000g. so it's still not too bad for 29er budget fork, not sure about the weight of the XCR-LO. It's also stiff as hell, way stiffer than Marzocchi TST(both QR15) on my other 29er. My only issue is wearing of the colour on the stanchions(seems to be a standard with Suntours - my mate has a Duro, also with wear from the seals). We shall see if the newer coating will have same problems.
    XCR-LO is an entry level model so it's pretty hard to compare the value and weight with waaay more expensive Fox, in my opinion.

    Bottom line: if you're on a budget but want a decent fork with good amount of regulations for a 29er, go for SR Raidon.

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    my stock fork was the xcr 29er and it rocked it feels absolutly bottomless and dampens well, plenty stiff for my 220 lb butt also.the lockout was an on off affair that is left locked clunked and beat u to death but i almost never use it.im a pretty big guy that bombs some pretty rough trails.o and btw my current fork is a 2011 reba so for me to give that xcr high marksis pretty legit

  29. #29
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    i also have a 2011 bike with a suntour fork 100mm travel. all it has is a lockout which is ok but id like to have a rebound adjustment. the fork sometime stiffens up also. im considering the rock shox recon gold. who all can let me know how this fork is? it be helpful!

  30. #30
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    I had a SR Suntour XCT-V2 MLO, It seemed real stiff all the time which hurt the wrists... One year later the internal bushings are worn, too bad SR Suntour thought it was a good idea to make then non-replaceable... Bought a 2011 Marzocchi to replace it.

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    I've got Suntour XCM V3's on my Marlin. I'm beating them up pretty hard and apparently there going to break on me sooner or later. Can someone tell me what i'm going to get and what differences I'm going to notice if I upgrade them to a set of Rockshox under 300 bucks? I'm real new to this, I just need a decent understanding.

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    if i have a Giant Revel 2, what would be a good upgrade fork for about $150?

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    You're not going to like me...

    http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...ls.php?id=4122

    or maybe a RockShox Tora or Recon. Toras have been detuned and aren't the fork they once were, so do your homework before you spend money. Also check out EBay.

    There are a few other options, and a bunch of threads on the subject. Try Google Site Search if this forum's search engine doesn't do it for you.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  34. #34
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    For that price range - I know you probably have a budget of course and $150. sounds and is alot of money but....; you are better simply "saving" a bit more for something better that will last longer, grow with your new skills set as well as your trail range. I think alot of mistakes are made with trying to buy with a limited budget and finding out sooner that the product is generally not that good. The you end up trying to buy something better later on. That money could have been used for a slightly better product and fork that has the means to the end.

    Just saying, because I have been there. Best not to go there, lost of $$$ can be waisted with wrong "upgrad-itis" choices.

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    Yeah...I would'nt be going down that route if all hindsight is intact.

    The 2nd-Hand road can be a double edged sword if you really do not know what you're doing. But if you do, or you have someone that does, then it can be a great way to get a really great fork/product cheaper then new with alot of ability yet may need a retune or a service - always best to do so, or have it inspected just incase.

    There are some skervy mooches on the interweb with intentions out for only the 'God Bless America' Buck. Just be careful and wise how and where you put your hard earned money.

    Pos Rep for trying though.


    Quote Originally Posted by AndrwSwitch View Post
    You're not going to like me...

    http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...ls.php?id=4122

    or maybe a RockShox Tora or Recon. Toras have been detuned and aren't the fork they once were, so do your homework before you spend money. Also check out EBay.

    There are a few other options, and a bunch of threads on the subject. Try Google Site Search if this forum's search engine doesn't do it for you.

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    how much is that least that i should spend on a fork? If definately worth it I can save up, I might be able to earn a couple of hundred bucks in the next month or two if i can find a life guarding job.

  37. #37
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    When I was afraid I'd killed my suspension fork, I did a little research and decided that if I couldn't afford at least a Recon Gold, I'd prefer to stick with a rigid fork.

    This is going to be different for different people. I've been riding for a pretty long time, ride a short-travel XC hardtail, and while I wouldn't call myself a weight weenie, I remember how awesome it was to swap a 3.1 (claimed) lb racing fork onto the front of my bike instead of the insanely heavy RST trash it shipped with. While a rigid fork may not compress, it does track better and weigh less than a crappy suspension fork; I don't want suspension at all unless I can tune the spring rate for my weight and trails, tune the rebound, and do something about pedal bob. Rigids don't bob or pogo.

    From Google Shopping, it looks like you can get the Recon Gold for a little under $400.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by wildcat46734 View Post
    how much is that least that i should spend on a fork? If definately worth it I can save up, I might be able to earn a couple of hundred bucks in the next month or two if i can find a life guarding job.

    IDK at the moment but, what bike are you currently riding and what terrain (basic description is fine)?

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    im currently riding a Giant Revel 2...im mostly riding on paved streets around my town and then dirt singletracks (Shawnee Mission Park Mountain bike trails if you wanna look it up) and then if I goto vail again I would like to be able to ride it down Lion Down (a blue trail with some dirt roads and some singletrack)

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    any help sim2u?

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    Yeah sorry mate, was busy wining about some irrational twit whose idea of Ex (thankfully) President GWBush on a MTB is a cool thing and how it is not political in some way???

    Anyway...

    Erm, it sounds like your target trails are fairly straightforward trails that are basic to the lower intermediate stage of trails in terms of the trails design and dexterity/complexity.

    I dont think with your bike (at this stage) that you would need to get a top shelf fork, otherwise you may as well invest in a whole new bike with an already better fork equipt with it. So in this case, I can understand your choice in the Suntour fork - which is not to say that they are bad or poor in any way.

    So in that case, you can take 2 roads...if you know anyone that has a fairly good/sound knowledge about MTBikes and part selection, you should try to get a used fork via their advice. But you may need to get a fork that has a 9mm Q/Release as I assume that is what you have now and you probably do not want the added cost of buying a hub and or wheel. You would probably need anywhere from 100mm-130mm in travel as too much may upset your A2C.

    Some newer options, which you may or may not wish to get - remember that forks are pricey but they can be easily transfered from bike to bike as long as the head tube is not tapered or whatever if that is not what you currently have and or the bikes dimentions and Geo number do not mach that amount of travel.

    I have tried to focus on some options that have some minor adjustments as well as perhaps some travel adjustments to help compliment your slight trail diversity.

    Anything Air Suspension related is bound to be a bit more pricey (other than a pogo-stick fork) and or anything with key minor to major adjustments, so with that also in mind:

    **In no specified order**

    I am trying to recommend something from 100mm - 130mm for you level and trail conditions. Personally 100mm is more than fine for that bike, but it will be busy on the more slightly steeper stuff but nothing scary, as long as you are not attacking a Dh section then you should be fine.

    1) Rock Shox Tora TK Fork coil/poplock: $245.00-ish
    Specifications:
    • Travel: 100mm
    • Weight: 2400 g (5.3 lbs)
    • Damping: Turnkey
    • Spring: Coil
    • Adjustments: External Rebound, Lockout, External Travel
    • Remotes: PopLoc
    • Steerer: Steel 1 1/8"
    • Crown: Forged 6061 T-6 Hollow Aluminium
    • Upper Tubes: 32mm, Steel, Chrome
    • Lowers: Magnesium, Post Mount
    • Maximum Rotor Size: 210mm

    2) Rock Shox recon Silver TK Fork $292.00-ish
    Specifications:
    • Travel: 100mm
    • Weight: 2228g (4.91 lbs) Coil
    • Damping: Rebound
    • Spring: Coil
    • Adjustments: External Rebound, Spring via Preload, Coil
    • Steerer: Aluminium 1 1/8"
    • Crown: Forged 6061 T-6 Hollow Aluminium
    • Upper Tubes: 32mm 4130 Tapered Wall Steel, Chrome
    • Lowers: Magnesium, Post Disc Mount
    • Recommended Rear Shock: Ario
    • Maximum Rotor Size: 210mm
    • Other: *Weight based on 265mm 1 1/8" steel steerer, 9mm QR

    3) Manitou Minute Expert Fork $394.00-ish
    Specifications:
    • Weight: 1906g
    • Travel from: 80mm - 100mm - 130mm
    • Spring: ACT Air
    • Spring Rate: Medium
    • Bottom Out: Rubber bumper
    • Steerer: 1.1/8” steel
    • Crown: Forged I-Beam Crown
    • Crown Finish: Black Ano
    • Offset: 41.27
    • Compression Damping: TPC Technology Absolute+
    • Adjustments: Air, Compression to Lockout, Rebound
    • Leg Diameter: 32mm
    • Leg Material: 7050 straight wall AL
    • Wheel Size: 26”
    • Brake: Post Mount
    • Axle: 9mm
    • Crown to Axle: 458 / 479 / 508

    4) Marzochi 44 ATA Micro fork 2009 $545.00-ish
    Specifications:
    • Travel - 100mm to 140mm
    • 9mm axle or 15mm
    • ATA (40mm Air travel adjustment, Positive and Negative Air)
    • TST Micro (Lock Out, Micro Adj. Comp., Compression, Rebound, Terrain Selection technology)
    • Alloy XC steer tube and crown
    • 32mm Nickel coated Alloy tapered stanchions
    • 6” Post Mount (Max Disc 8”)
    • Upper/lower clamp distance - 170mm
    • Crown offset - 18mm
    • Wheel axle offset - 26mm
    • Total fork length - 507mm
    • Total offset - 44mm
    • Weight - 1710g

    There are many other options but these are just some, and many other peeps may also offer you some better advice but the Manitou Minute forks are fairly good for your price point and function.

    But please shop around and be in no hurry as you may even get a good deal from some one on here or E-Bay. Just be sure to check with someone who knows their stuff first and be prepared to get it serviced just incase unless otherwise specified.

    I would suggest that 100mm - 130mm fork perhaps 9mm Q/Release due to the fact that your current wheel might be already a 9mm?

    15mm is better but if your wheel is not already this then to save money, forget it. Do later or with another bike.

    Sorry for the simple advice but to get more is beyond my time just now...will check in after.

    Happy Trails.
    Last edited by Sim2u; 08-05-2011 at 12:12 AM.

  42. #42
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    Erm...just off the top of my head. I am sure there are others so chime in peeps with some offers to help this chap.

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    What about buying one of the the Rock Shox Darts or is that a bad idea? and thanks for all the great input, ill make sure and check out some of those on ebay and keep an eye on cragislit and on here for good deals.

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    I can't post links but there are two different Rock Shox Tora forks on ebay, one for $130 and one for $275, it looks like the only difference is the remote lockout. Is there any other difference and if not is the remote lockout worth it?

  45. #45
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    Yeah, I think that's what I would do too in that sitaution...better to wait and get something more high end.

    Quote Originally Posted by AndrwSwitch View Post
    When I was afraid I'd killed my suspension fork, I did a little research and decided that if I couldn't afford at least a Recon Gold, I'd prefer to stick with a rigid fork.

    This is going to be different for different people. I've been riding for a pretty long time, ride a short-travel XC hardtail, and while I wouldn't call myself a weight weenie, I remember how awesome it was to swap a 3.1 (claimed) lb racing fork onto the front of my bike instead of the insanely heavy RST trash it shipped with. While a rigid fork may not compress, it does track better and weigh less than a crappy suspension fork; I don't want suspension at all unless I can tune the spring rate for my weight and trails, tune the rebound, and do something about pedal bob. Rigids don't bob or pogo.

    From Google Shopping, it looks like you can get the Recon Gold for a little under $400.

  46. #46
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    Cool-blue Rhythm

    The remote lock-out basically just locks the fork, essentially making it a rigid fork, which is really handy for some of your trails - those being mainly XC orientated, as well as your choice of bike.

    If you put a fork on there that has too much travel, it will dramatically change your H/A, which affects your bikes Geo as well as your bikes trail ability and yours. Also the A2C length must or at least should be within the realms of normality for your bike. Too much travel may damage your frame due to the fact that the A2C - Axle to Crown; length is not suitable. But hey, many do this regardless, just mainly with more burley AM rigs.

    In terms of buying from the web, I really do not wish to recommend directly to you, because I would feel incredibly bad if there was some defective aspect to the product that I did not know about. If it's new or next to new and unused then all should be fine. you should communicate directly with the seller for info and or pics etc etc.

    The Rock Shox Recon Gold RL Solo Air is a nice choice, but the air spring is a learning curve for you...perhaps (?), but a fun one at that.

    Specifications:
    • Travel: 100mm
    • Weight: 1805g (3.98 lbs) Solo Air
    • Damping: Motion Control
    • Springs: Solo air / Coil
    • Adjustments: External Rebound, Low Speed Compression / Lockout
    • Spring via Air Pressure, Solo Air / Spring via Preload, Coil
    • Steerer: Aluminium 1 1/8"
    • Crown: Forged 6061 T-6 Hollow Aluminium
    • Upper: Tubes 32mm 7000 Series Straight wall Aluminium, Low Friction Anodized
    • Lowers: Magnesium, Post Disc Mount
    • Recommended Rear Shock: Monarch or Ario
    • Maximum Rotor Size: 210mm
    • Remote: PopLoc
    • Other: *Weight based on 265mm 1 1/8" steel steerer, 9mm QR

    New for Model Year 2011: You may be able to find a slightly older model say, 2010?

    Sounds like a nice choice and none toooooo expensive. Really shop around though and you may also wish to try www.chainreactioncycles.com . I usually buy a large amount of my stuff there as they have summer sales etc etc.

    Hope that helped. If you are going down the E-Bay route and have enough info from Ebay about the sale, it looks legit with a good sales rep, good communication with a product that is either new, next to new (as in from a parts bin) and or slightly used with no defects, scraches on the stancheons or any dents and dings then go for it. Just be aware of the sellers money back policy, but I am sure you know all about stuff like that though.

    Excuse the typos, speed typing lowers my accuracy, but hey...it's a MTB site!

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    Bonking ... not feelin' well

    Found some specs on a v3 HLO. The weight was listed as 2650 grams!!!!! Or 5.8 lbs. Wow that's a heavy shock. I'm not a weight weenie by any means but that's just heavy. Deal breaker for me.

  48. #48
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    I think when you start getting into weight...price goes even higher - to some degree.

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sim2u View Post
    I think when you start getting into weight...price goes even higher - to some degree.
    Agreed. But you can get a dart3 now that's just under 5 lbs. For less than $150. I've seen better shocks for more but barely beat the dart3 in weight. In its class I don't think the dart3 can be beat. About one pound difference. That's pretty significant. Wont break the bank either. For a low level entry fork its number one on my list for a coil spring shock.

  50. #50
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    2011 Kona

    I have recently gtten into mtn biking and wrecked my cheap department store "mtn bike" enough to buy a new one. I got a 2011 Kona Mahuna its an entery level 29er with the suntour xct v3 forks would it be worth me looking into new forks for it even just to have an idea for what i want down the road?

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