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  1. #76
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    Hey Nick,

    Just changed oil on 3, yes three, DHX yesterday using your guide, I'm banging my head why I have not done it sooner!

    The oil on those were muck filthy! All 3 were 8.5x2.5 from a Quake, Bighit (2010), and a Demo 7.

    The IFP depths from the Quake and Bighit measured at 35mm. Mine (Demo7) was only 26mm!, I was a bit surprised, was it intentional i.e. the shock tune for the demo? I understand that this would make the shock more linear?
    Folangag

  2. #77
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    thank a lot...

  3. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by darkzeon View Post
    Hey Nick,

    Just changed oil on 3, yes three, DHX yesterday using your guide, I'm banging my head why I have not done it sooner!

    The oil on those were muck filthy! All 3 were 8.5x2.5 from a Quake, Bighit (2010), and a Demo 7.

    The IFP depths from the Quake and Bighit measured at 35mm. Mine (Demo7) was only 26mm!, I was a bit surprised, was it intentional i.e. the shock tune for the demo? I understand that this would make the shock more linear?
    That would make the shock more progressive.

  4. #79
    staike
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    Quote Originally Posted by tacubaya View Post
    That would make the shock more progressive.
    Why? In my understanding a bigger air volume means that the shock will be more linear. Same thing as turning the 'bottom out' knob in theory. Right?

  5. #80
    moaaar shimz
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    Quote Originally Posted by staikeinthahood View Post
    Why? In my understanding a bigger air volume means that the shock will be more linear. Same thing as turning the 'bottom out' knob in theory. Right?
    Yes, more air volume = more linear. You said your Demo shock came with a shallow IFP depth, that means less air volume = progressive.

  6. #81
    staike
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    Oops, I was sure I read 56 mm. My bad.

    I rebuilt my DHX 4.0 today, worked great. Now I have a spare shock. The shock came stock on a Trek Session, which is "custom "DH race tuned" according to Trek. But what is custom? The shimstack? IFP depth was the normal one, 38 mm.

  7. #82
    moaaar shimz
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    Quote Originally Posted by staikeinthahood View Post
    Oops, I was sure I read 56 mm. My bad.

    I rebuilt my DHX 4.0 today, worked great. Now I have a spare shock. The shock came stock on a Trek Session, which is "custom "DH race tuned" according to Trek. But what is custom? The shimstack? IFP depth was the normal one, 38 mm.
    Yeah, the valving.

  8. #83
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    Hey

    Does any one have Default SHIMS setup for DHX 3.0 241mm ? I messed up during reassemblly and wondering does i did that in the wrong way.

    Also maybe someone will be ale to tell me what's going wrong if the piston screw is screwed too tighten.

    Thanks

  9. #84
    staike
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    If you tighten it too much the shims won't flex when they are supposed to and the shock will spike.

  10. #85
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    Thanks for an explanation.

    I'm going to check it today. Have to remove damper from the bike and de-asemblly and check shims configuration and during re-assemblly check piston screw tension.

  11. #86
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    I did that.
    I'll post details with pictures shortly (now is working almost perfect) with one question mark... But i'll tell you later today what i was discovered

  12. #87
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    no air pressure

    Hi guys,

    First, want to thank Nick for a GREAT write up.

    Then, my doubt. I have a Pushed DHX 5.0 that came in my used Ironhorse Sunday Team 2008 that I bought on ebay in 2010.

    I don't know anything about the bike before me owning it. I know the shock was Pushed because it has the sticker.

    Now, I understand that if the shock came OEM in a Sunday, it has a special tuning (or so says Dave Weagle), particular for the Sunday, that Fox did. I don't think this is the OEM shock, so I GUESS that is why the previous owner had it Pushed. Anyhow, whether it is the OEM or not, I suppose it was Pushed for the Sunday. Recently I spent a lot of time without riding (because I moved to another country and had snapped my Boxxer in half and bla bla bla) and after almost a year, I finnally got a chance to ride, boosted the shock up to my usual setup and went for a ride.
    A week after, I noticed the bike had a little "play" in the shock area but all the links were fine so I thought it may be the airpressure and indeed there was no pressure at all.
    So I have a leak. The next 3 days it has been losing like 30 psi overnight (consistently, 3 days in a row). I haven't tested (will do it this night afterwork) how much psi does my pump sucks in when connected, but from what I read it shouldn't be more than 15 or maybe 20.
    I am pretty sure I may have ridden the bike without air pressure in the shock at the end of the day that time I rode, maybe, of this I am not sure. But I am sure I cycled the shock many times while on the bike because I was searching for this "play".

    So all I find is that, if you ride it like that (without air pressure), you need to re bleed the shock and stuff. Is that really true? Because if oil cavitates (which is just a change of phase due to pressure) it should go back to the liquid phase after cooling down and the bike laying there for days. Now, if it sucked air in (is this possible as a consequence of no pressure?), that is a problem.

    Let me know what you guys think. Another option is send it back to Push, but I really like doing this things and don't fear them at all. I also wouldn't like to spend the money Push charges for it, and even more important if I don't have to do any rebuild I rather just boost it up (maybe solve the shcradder valve leak by itself) and go just go ride.

    Thanks in advance to you all and keep a good post like this up.
    Last edited by juanpkumicho; 07-23-2012 at 10:44 AM.

  13. #88
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    air leak

    OK, so I tested two things:

    1. The shock pump takes about 20 to 25 psi when I connect it. This number may seem a little high, but I am not surprised since I did these tests with the bottom out all the way in, so the volume in the boost chamber is smaller than with the bottom out completely open.

    2. I sumerged the shock in water and indeed there is a very small air leak in the Schrader valve. The air does not seem to come out of the Schrader but from its outside diameter, suggesting that the leak is between the valve and the boost chamber body.

    I still have the question about the re bleeding if the shock is cycled without air pressure.

  14. #89
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    Hello , any service guide for Fox DHX 5 Air?

  15. #90
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    I have done DHX Air service like this: Operation Fox DHX5 Air Bleed

    Works nicely and quite easy to bleed that shock properly.

  16. #91
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    I'm not able to unscrew the cap to get inside the shock body (step 4 in the manual) using an adjustable wrench. Its torqued very tightly. I tried torching it a bit but still haven't any success. Does anyone have a solution to this? Would getting a 25mm cone wrench help? It was pushed 4 years ago but hasn't had any maintenance since.

    I don't really want to pay to have this rebuilt. Assuming i cant get the cap off, if I fill the piggyback with new oil, will it make it's way back into the body? Or am I stuck having to get it rebuilt now that there's no oil in the shock?

  17. #92
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    no, you cannot fill the piggy.that will not get oil in main chamber or at least will have some air left in the oil,wich is not good.
    Last edited by null; 10-01-2012 at 03:25 AM.
    i am here only to gather knowledge and to offer to others what i know. no bullsht please,so stop wasting good bull !

  18. #93
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    where the heck is the rc4 version on this service?

  19. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by null View Post
    no, you cannot fill the piggy.that will not get oil in main chamber or at least will have some air left in the oil,wich is not good.
    Thanks for the info.

    Here's a tip to make it a bit easier to deal with rebuilding a shock. Put the shock body in a 31.8mm stem and put the stem in the vice. Works great. I managed to get the shaft cap off with this method using a dedicated 25 mm wrench.

    Now, hopefully I'll be able to do the oil change without screwing anything up.

  20. #95
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    Hi there. I have a fox dhx rc4 and was wanting to just change the oil, which steps should I follow as I don't want to do a complete rebuild
    Thanks

  21. #96
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    Hey LowLow did you succeed in changing the oil there?

  22. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by juanpkumicho View Post
    Hey LowLow did you succeed in changing the oil there?
    I did! I opened the piggyback and got the shaft cap open using the method I posted above, dumped out all of the oil, and just filled it back up again based on the method described in the Nick's tutorial and using some Golden Spectro fork oil. Other than getting the shaft cap open, it was pretty straightforward. But I basically skipped steps 5-11, which means that I didn't replace any of the o-rings or take apart the rebound or propedal assembly. The shock seems to work fine though.

    The only odd thing I noticed when taking apart the shock is that the IFP was set to 15/16" instead of 1.3", which is the default setting for my shock. I had my shock pushed 4 years ago so I thought that maybe that's why it's different. I called Push to confirm, but I guess the way they work on the suspension, the IFP may or may not move from its original position. I'm considering opening the piggyback again and moving the IFP to 1.3" to see how it feels.

    Also, I don't know if the RC4 has the same internal parts as my shock, so I'm not sure if you'll run into issues if you decide to open up your shock.

  23. #98
    What?
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    I assume you would bleed a Vanilla RC in the same manor as a DHX since they use the same body?

  24. #99
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    Bonking ... not feelin' well

    Quote Originally Posted by Nick_M2R View Post
    A little update guys, have been poking round through the files of the fox service site that used to be uploaded here, and have stumbled across this IFP Depth chart

    As you can see, the depths differ for the DHX 3/4 compared to the 5, which makes sense because the increased IFP depth figures for the 5 are compensating for the bottom out adjuster (which is simply a screwable plug that increases or decrease the volume of the boost valve chamber.)

    Here it is, will update the one in the guide soon....
    ------------------------------------------------
    DHX 5.0 Coil IFP Depth:
    ------------------------------------------------

    I2I - Stroke: Depth (inches):

    7.50 X 2.00 1.250
    7.875 X 2.00 1.250
    7.875 X 2.25 1.300
    8.500 X 2.500 1.350
    8.750 X 2.500 1.350
    9.500 X 3.00 1.480

    ------------------------------------------------
    DHX 3.0/4.0 IFP Depth:
    ------------------------------------------------

    I2I - Stroke: Depth (inches):

    7.50 X 2.00 1.150
    7.875 X 2.00 1.150
    7.875 X 2.25 1.200
    8.50 X 2.500 1.250
    8.75 X 2.500 1.250
    8.75 X 2.750 1.250
    9.00 X 2.500 1.250
    9.00 X 2.750 1.375
    Hello, I saw this interesting post but I'd like to know the IFP depth for a DHX RC4 in 9.5 X 3.00 (241mm X 76mm) anyone could give me that please ?

  25. #100
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    Just for info, I found some info from suspension tuning companies, they said place the IFP at 3mm from bottom position, some said also not more than 5mm.

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