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  1. #51
    Wil109
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    Hi jvaughn75,

    Like you I screwed up my shim stack by not having it tight enough. Even lost one of the medium sized shims due to damage.

    Check this link out, I tried to follow the stack setup as closely as possible and find that I get decent rebound damping, I know its a different shock size and a dhx 5.0 but you gotta start somewhere.

    http://bb.nsmb.com/showthread.php?t=132295

    I don't think its quite the same as the stock setup but I quite like it. I'm due to service my shock in a few weeks and will post my shim stack on a separate thread in this forum. I think it would be interesting to catalogue the different setups.

    Would be super handy to have others post to it.

    Good luck,

    Wil
    I love my bike and my bike loves me

  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wil109
    Hi jvaughn75,

    Like you I screwed up my shim stack by not having it tight enough. Even lost one of the medium sized shims due to damage.

    Check this link out, I tried to follow the stack setup as closely as possible and find that I get decent rebound damping, I know its a different shock size and a dhx 5.0 but you gotta start somewhere.

    http://bb.nsmb.com/showthread.php?t=132295

    I don't think its quite the same as the stock setup but I quite like it. I'm due to service my shock in a few weeks and will post my shim stack on a separate thread in this forum. I think it would be interesting to catalogue the different setups.

    Would be super handy to have others post to it.

    Good luck,

    Wil
    Thanks for the info. I re-did my shim stack yesterday, following the picture in this post as best as I could (some of the shims are different sizes). Rebound is pretty slow, even on the fastest rebound setting, but it will work for now. However, my compression is like the guy's the forum you posted, soft over small bumps and stiff for the big hits. It might just take a little getting used to, but I think I will like this way. The only thing I would change now is the make the rebound more adjustable, but that will wait for the next rebuild.

    I would post the dimensions of my shims and the order, but I do not have a dial caliper (yet). I will pick one up someday and measure them and post back here. Thanks again for the tip!

  3. #53
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    how about the vanilla RC...can you show me the rebuild on that bad boy...thanks
    "He can make even a global summit meeting seem like a kegger." M. Dowd, NY Times, 19 July 2006

  4. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by adamantane
    how about the vanilla RC...can you show me the rebuild on that bad boy...thanks
    Are you referring to the old van RC's from the early 2000's or the new 2011 VAN RC?

    If your referring to the new one, the rebuild should be almost identical to the DHX, as they are built off of the same chassis.

    HOWEVER

    the thing stopping me from recommending you do it is that the VAN RC has no air valve, it has a nitro charge in it, and to refill this, you need a special adaptor to fill the gas through a rubber plug

  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nick_M2R
    Are you referring to the old van RC's from the early 2000's or the new 2011 VAN RC?

    If your referring to the new one, the rebuild should be almost identical to the DHX, as they are built off of the same chassis.

    HOWEVER

    the thing stopping me from recommending you do it is that the VAN RC has no air valve, it has a nitro charge in it, and to refill this, you need a special adaptor to fill the gas through a rubber plug
    yeah, i'm talking the older vanilla rc's...i bet you have a special tool built for the N2 charge, a pic of that would be nice...some kind of syringe needle i bet...oh and what do you use for the rubber plug
    "He can make even a global summit meeting seem like a kegger." M. Dowd, NY Times, 19 July 2006

  6. #56
    ....just cruisin through
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    DHX Convert 2.0 to 2.25

    So I have a 2008 DHX 5.0 that is 7.875 X 2.0. I just bought a 2008 DHX 3.0 that is 7.875 X 2.25 (yes, this will work with my frame) My question is this:

    I am going to remove the body and piston shaft from the 3.0 and put it onto the piggyback reservoir of the 5.0 so that I still have PP and bottom out. Your guide shows great detail about opening up the bottom out chamber so that I can bleed at the end, and removing the main piston, but does not state how to remove the shock body (from the end of the shock body where it transfers from "silver threading" of the shock body to black housing of the piggyback). Do I just need to clamp the eyelets into a vice and unscrew the body with a strap wrench? What I am trying to achieve is shown below (shock body that houses the piston removed from the black piggyback chamber:The Complete Fox DHX 3/4/5 Service Thread-version-4-dhx-service-guide2.jpg
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    Here are just a few of the key ingredients: dynamite, pole vaulting, laughing gas, choppers.....

  7. #57
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    Pushed DHX 5.0

    Does anybody know if Pushed DHX 5.0 needs special o-rings or special service? I've scheduled to complete the rebuild during next month or so, but first I need to obtain all the needed o-rings.
    My shock hasn't been leaking, but I've been running it for 3 years with no service. I guess there's no option to rebuild it without replacing the o-rings?

    Thanks!

  8. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by d-dsn
    Does anybody know if Pushed DHX 5.0 needs special o-rings or special service? I've scheduled to complete the rebuild during next month or so, but first I need to obtain all the needed o-rings.
    My shock hasn't been leaking, but I've been running it for 3 years with no service. I guess there's no option to rebuild it without replacing the o-rings?

    Thanks!
    Quoting myself,
    I emailed TFTuned and asked about differences in o-rings between Fox and Push. Dimensions are identical, but Push uses o-rings with higher quality material and they should give better sealing.
    Long story short, Pushed DHX CAN be rebuild with standard Fox-sized o-rings.

    Does anyone have a slightest idea about the "standard" or "better" rubber materials used in o-rings? If I'd just go to a o-ring retailer and ask seals for suspension, which type (material) of seals are they offering me?

  9. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by d-dsn
    Quoting myself,
    I emailed TFTuned and asked about differences in o-rings between Fox and Push. Dimensions are identical, but Push uses o-rings with higher quality material and they should give better sealing.
    Long story short, Pushed DHX CAN be rebuild with standard Fox-sized o-rings.

    Does anyone have a slightest idea about the "standard" or "better" rubber materials used in o-rings? If I'd just go to a o-ring retailer and ask seals for suspension, which type (material) of seals are they offering me?
    FWIW: Standard and better are relative terms given the application. Tables of materials and applications are all over the internet (for example: http://www.marcorubber.com/material_chart.htm)


    You could take the rings from the TFTuned shock into the o ring shop (find a good quality industrial supply shop) when you service it. They should be able to tell the material type.

    Otherwise suggest calling TFTuned and asking the oring material types. They may not tell you as I suspect what materials they use and where, is proprietary (ie from their lots of research they may have determined which oring material works best in which location). Do TFTuned sell a service kit?

  10. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfrazm
    So I have a 2008 DHX 5.0 that is 7.875 X 2.0. I just bought a 2008 DHX 3.0 that is 7.875 X 2.25 (yes, this will work with my frame) My question is this:

    I am going to remove the body and piston shaft from the 3.0 and put it onto the piggyback reservoir of the 5.0 so that I still have PP and bottom out. Your guide shows great detail about opening up the bottom out chamber so that I can bleed at the end, and removing the main piston, but does not state how to remove the shock body (from the end of the shock body where it transfers from "silver threading" of the shock body to black housing of the piggyback). Do I just need to clamp the eyelets into a vice and unscrew the body with a strap wrench? What I am trying to achieve is shown below (shock body that houses the piston removed from the black piggyback chamber:Click image for larger version. 

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    Hi mate
    Sorry for the late reply

    With regards to removing the the body, first i would check to see it the body is the same length, because i have a suspicion that the body of the 2 shocks will be the same, but the shafts will be different (one will be slightly long)

    I had the same issue as you, the i have a 8.5/2.5 DHX 5 but the new bighit 2 frame i got came with a 8.75/2.75 shock, but i found the body was the same on the two, and only the shafts differed, so its a simple matter of just removing the shock from the old one, swapping the piston and shims over, the reinstalling it into the new one

    Otherwise to remove it, you would need to make some shaft clamps out of some hardwood, tighten her up good, heat the area were the bridge and body join (and when i say heat, i mean GENTLY heat) then use a breaker bar through the top eyelet and unscrew it

    Hope this helps!

  11. #61
    Im a Cowboy
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    Great Job on the guide Nick


    MODS!!!........................why the hell isnt this a sticky????????
    DON'T TELL ME I'M STILL ON THAT FECKIN' ISLAND! ....

  12. #62
    ....just cruisin through
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nick_M2R
    Hi mate
    Sorry for the late reply

    With regards to removing the the body, first i would check to see it the body is the same length, because i have a suspicion that the body of the 2 shocks will be the same, but the shafts will be different (one will be slightly long)

    I had the same issue as you, the i have a 8.5/2.5 DHX 5 but the new bighit 2 frame i got came with a 8.75/2.75 shock, but i found the body was the same on the two, and only the shafts differed, so its a simple matter of just removing the shock from the old one, swapping the piston and shims over, the reinstalling it into the new one

    Otherwise to remove it, you would need to make some shaft clamps out of some hardwood, tighten her up good, heat the area were the bridge and body join (and when i say heat, i mean GENTLY heat) then use a breaker bar through the top eyelet and unscrew it

    Hope this helps!
    Right on! Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately they DO have different lengths in the shaft and the body. They are the same i2i length, so with the different travel the 7.875 X 2.25 stroke has a shorter body and longer shaft than the 7.875 X 2.0 stroke. I rode the 7.875 X 2.25 stroke this weekend (the 3.0) and I think I am only going to steal the bottom out adjuster from the 5.0 and add it to the 3.0 (thus making it a 4.0, but with bottom out instead of the propedal). Changing over the bottom out adjuster will be a piece of cake as I will not have to bleed the thing (I don't have to remove the IFP). Thanks again for all your help and an incredible tutorial!
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    Here are just a few of the key ingredients: dynamite, pole vaulting, laughing gas, choppers.....

  13. #63
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    Not sure if this is the correct place to ask? I've a DHX 3 and it seems to be losing air. I've stuck in a bucket of water and there is a very small re occurring bubble around the bottom of the valve where it screws into the piggy back body. It's not in the PDF as far as I can see. Would there be a seal in there to replace or could I use something to put on the theads to seal the leak? I don't think loctite is a good idea? or plumbers tape for that matter? I presume there is no harm in remvoing the valve once de pressurised either?

  14. #64
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    Hey everyone,

    Just completed the DHX 5.0 rebuild for my 2006 model. It went reasonably well. The shock is performing like new again. I wanted to share some info.

    1) I used 10w Motul(medium) Motorcycle Suspension Oil and it seems to be working well.
    2) The hydraulics industrial supply store I sourced the o-rings from gave me a pretty detailed invoice so I'm providing the size of o-ring and step it is from. I didn't replace every o-ring because I didn't take the two tubes off of the black top bit and I wasn't able to source two that I did have access to; a) the o-ring on the back side of the Propedal piece held in by the snap ring and b) the little o-ring on the end of the main shaft on the rebound adjuster end.

    All o-rings are imperial sizes and made of 70 durometer nitrile rubber. ID = inner diameter, OD = outer diameter

    Step 8:
    Main Shaft O-ring: ID. 1/2 OD. 3/4 (industry ID code 2-206)
    Shaft housing O-ring: ID. 1 OD. 1-1/8 (industry ID code 2-022)

    Step 10 -70/71:
    Black bottom-out plunger O-ring: ID.7/8 OD. 1-1/6 (industry ID code 2-118)
    Grey bottom-out housing inner O-ring: ID. 11/16 OD. 13/16 (industry ID code 2-017)

    Step 11:
    IFP O-ring: ID. 13/16 OD. 1-1/16 (industry ID code 2-211)
    Grey bottom-out housing O-ring: ID. 1 OD. 1-1/8 (industry ID code 2-022)

    I bought 5 of each and it cost me $9 with tax. Lucky for me the orange/yellow dust seal is in good shape as I was not able to find a replacement.

    Hope you find this helpful.

    p.s. don't mess up that shim stack order!

  15. #65
    earide
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nick_M2R
    Increasing the depth will increase the volume of the boost valve, making the shock more linear.
    Decreasing the depth will decrease the volume of the boost valve, making the shock more progressive

    But be warned, you have to make sure you dont push it to deep (causing it to hit the top of the resi, or to shallow (will knock on the boost valve cap)
    hello Nick
    first, thanks a lot for these guide and updates !!!!
    my question is about IFP depth
    I put the right deph you're advising, pump my dhx 4.0 at 140psi and mount it without spring on my bike: OK the shock goes on the max of it's travel
    but when I'm riding and tacking big hits (like big freeride landings) I can see that the shock stops everytime on around 1.5" from the max travel
    do you think that with high speed compressions, there is a larger volume of oil that push the IFP and then it hits the top of the boost valve cap?

    Secondly how did you separate the boost valve carboy from the main shock body?

    sorry for my bad english cause I'm french haha
    thanks again !
    Adrien

  16. #66
    earide
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nick_M2R
    Hi mate
    Sorry for the late reply

    With regards to removing the the body, first i would check to see it the body is the same length, because i have a suspicion that the body of the 2 shocks will be the same, but the shafts will be different (one will be slightly long)

    I had the same issue as you, the i have a 8.5/2.5 DHX 5 but the new bighit 2 frame i got came with a 8.75/2.75 shock, but i found the body was the same on the two, and only the shafts differed, so its a simple matter of just removing the shock from the old one, swapping the piston and shims over, the reinstalling it into the new one

    Otherwise to remove it, you would need to make some shaft clamps out of some hardwood, tighten her up good, heat the area were the bridge and body join (and when i say heat, i mean GENTLY heat) then use a breaker bar through the top eyelet and unscrew it

    Hope this helps!

    Hello Nick
    in the IFP body (excepted IFP travel adjustment), is there something to tune by ourself to improving high speed compression resistance and lowering slow speed resistance (propedal)?
    because I'm looking for better sensitivity and a better high speed braking at the same time... but I've never separated the IFP body from the main shock body, so I don't know what's inside and what's possible to customize !

    thanks a lot
    Adrien

  17. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by ehrhard
    Hello Nick
    in the IFP body (excepted IFP travel adjustment), is there something to tune by ourself to improving high speed compression resistance and lowering slow speed resistance (propedal)?
    because I'm looking for better sensitivity and a better high speed braking at the same time... but I've never separated the IFP body from the main shock body, so I don't know what's inside and what's possible to customize !

    thanks a lot
    Adrien
    Hi Adrien!

    One thing ive heard of doing is removing the propedal spring, which turns it into a platformless style shock, which will drastically increase its sensitivity, however i have never performed nor know the complete procedure on how to do it properly.

    Other than that you will probably have to start mucking with the shim stack, which im in the process of learning how to do, but until ive cracked it, im not gonna give much advce on it because i dont wanna risk giving the wrong advice and damaging your shock

    Your only 100% reliable option is to send it to PUSH industries, hope this helps

  18. #68
    earide
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nick_M2R
    Hi Adrien!

    One thing ive heard of doing is removing the propedal spring, which turns it into a platformless style shock, which will drastically increase its sensitivity, however i have never performed nor know the complete procedure on how to do it properly.

    Other than that you will probably have to start mucking with the shim stack, which im in the process of learning how to do, but until ive cracked it, im not gonna give much advce on it because i dont wanna risk giving the wrong advice and damaging your shock

    Your only 100% reliable option is to send it to PUSH industries, hope this helps
    Thanks Nick
    i'm going to see it, can you explain me a bit more how access to the propedal spring? do we have to unmount the reservoir from the main shock body (in that case how)?

    I've read again your dhx servicing manual, you talked about that, but I'm sorry I didn't understand quite well (I'm french) sorry haha

    thanks a lot

  19. #69
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    Great How-To! I will have to do this before long.

    One thing though, you said to "Reinflate the boost valve to a minimum of 125PSI." Is that correct? The manual that came with my 2006 DHX 5.0 says a Maximum of 125 PSI.

    -Brett
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  20. #70
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    I can supply a set of shore A 70 Buna (AKA; oil resistent o-rings, the type you want) for 08 or later not sure if set will work with older. PM if interested. Same disclaimers apply of course

    order here on MTBR
    http://classifieds.mtbr.com/showprod...?product=62674
    Last edited by gusvar; 03-31-2011 at 04:54 PM.

  21. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by adamantane
    how about the vanilla RC...can you show me the rebuild on that bad boy...thanks
    They're not as user-friendly to rebuild as the DHX. Not only due to the missing schrader valve but also there's no bleed screw in the middle of the floating piston. I also had problems with the shock body and reservoir body unscrewing instead of the caps unscrewing. I had to make some collet-clamps to hold them tightly without damage.

    But otherwise all the same methods apply, if you can rebuild one you can rebuild the other. You can make an air needle from a syringe needle, a ball needle and some epoxy. But you need to crimp the ends otherwise they simply take a core-sample from the rubber plug and block themselves up.
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz and NZ Manitou Agent.
    www.dougal.co.nz Suspension setup & tuning.
    SPV Devolve

  22. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by jvaughn75
    Thanks for the info. I re-did my shim stack yesterday, following the picture in this post as best as I could (some of the shims are different sizes). Rebound is pretty slow, even on the fastest rebound setting, but it will work for now. However, my compression is like the guy's the forum you posted, soft over small bumps and stiff for the big hits. It might just take a little getting used to, but I think I will like this way. The only thing I would change now is the make the rebound more adjustable, but that will wait for the next rebuild.

    I would post the dimensions of my shims and the order, but I do not have a dial caliper (yet). I will pick one up someday and measure them and post back here. Thanks again for the tip!
    Turning the single stage stack into a dual stage. It can have some benefits but also some big downsides. It greatly reduces low speed compression damping (i.e. more wallow) but keeps most of your high speed compression damping. The result works best for a shock that deals with the extremes, light damping at low shaft speeds (follows small rolling bumps okay) but still takes a lot of energy out of fast hits.

    But there are a lot of situations it doesn't work well in, like those with a lot of short sharp impacts. In those it ends up wallowing due to the riders body movements and then spiking over all the bumps. You can find it wasting a lot of the travel due to undulations rather than bumps.

    Just remember low speed damping does not equal small bumps only and high speed damping does not equal big hits only. We're dealing with a whole spectrum of terrain where small high speed impacts and large low speed impacts both exist. It's about tuning the shock to fit where and how you ride.

    For where and how I like to ride a digressive shim stack on both compression and rebound works best. I tried multi-stage shim-stacks a few years ago and found the wallow-spike-wallow-wallow-spike didn't do it for me.
    The digressive stacks give lots of stability due to the higher low speed compression and let the suspension react a lot quicker than stock in both compression and rebound. It works for me.
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz and NZ Manitou Agent.
    www.dougal.co.nz Suspension setup & tuning.
    SPV Devolve

  23. #73
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    OK guys, have got a few emails regarding people having issues with the original link

    I have uploaded the file to my own website which i am in the process of creating
    MTBMechanics.webs.com which has all of my guides in one place, plus reviews of various products. Please note it is not fully finished yet, but i hope to have it all done soon

    LINK

    http://mtbmechanics.webs.com/foxdhxcoilrebuild.htm

  24. #74
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    Hello,

    I saw a DHX rebuild kit on eBay. Does anybody know if that kit is complete or any good? Has anybody here actually used that kit?

    http://cgi.ebay.com/Fox-DHX-3-4-5-co...#ht_770wt_1139

    I'm contemplating doing the rebuild myself since the cost to send it out seems quite absorbent.

    Thanks.

  25. #75
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    i have bought a fox dhx 5.0 pushed for 180 lbs rider. i am 210-220. do you think i will have problems?

  26. #76
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    Hey Nick,

    Just changed oil on 3, yes three, DHX yesterday using your guide, I'm banging my head why I have not done it sooner!

    The oil on those were muck filthy! All 3 were 8.5x2.5 from a Quake, Bighit (2010), and a Demo 7.

    The IFP depths from the Quake and Bighit measured at 35mm. Mine (Demo7) was only 26mm!, I was a bit surprised, was it intentional i.e. the shock tune for the demo? I understand that this would make the shock more linear?
    Folangag

  27. #77
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    thank a lot...

  28. #78
    moaaar shimz
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    Quote Originally Posted by darkzeon View Post
    Hey Nick,

    Just changed oil on 3, yes three, DHX yesterday using your guide, I'm banging my head why I have not done it sooner!

    The oil on those were muck filthy! All 3 were 8.5x2.5 from a Quake, Bighit (2010), and a Demo 7.

    The IFP depths from the Quake and Bighit measured at 35mm. Mine (Demo7) was only 26mm!, I was a bit surprised, was it intentional i.e. the shock tune for the demo? I understand that this would make the shock more linear?
    That would make the shock more progressive.

  29. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by tacubaya View Post
    That would make the shock more progressive.
    Why? In my understanding a bigger air volume means that the shock will be more linear. Same thing as turning the 'bottom out' knob in theory. Right?

  30. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by staikeinthahood View Post
    Why? In my understanding a bigger air volume means that the shock will be more linear. Same thing as turning the 'bottom out' knob in theory. Right?
    Yes, more air volume = more linear. You said your Demo shock came with a shallow IFP depth, that means less air volume = progressive.

  31. #81
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    Oops, I was sure I read 56 mm. My bad.

    I rebuilt my DHX 4.0 today, worked great. Now I have a spare shock. The shock came stock on a Trek Session, which is "custom "DH race tuned" according to Trek. But what is custom? The shimstack? IFP depth was the normal one, 38 mm.

  32. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by staikeinthahood View Post
    Oops, I was sure I read 56 mm. My bad.

    I rebuilt my DHX 4.0 today, worked great. Now I have a spare shock. The shock came stock on a Trek Session, which is "custom "DH race tuned" according to Trek. But what is custom? The shimstack? IFP depth was the normal one, 38 mm.
    Yeah, the valving.

  33. #83
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    Hey

    Does any one have Default SHIMS setup for DHX 3.0 241mm ? I messed up during reassemblly and wondering does i did that in the wrong way.

    Also maybe someone will be ale to tell me what's going wrong if the piston screw is screwed too tighten.

    Thanks

  34. #84
    staike
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    If you tighten it too much the shims won't flex when they are supposed to and the shock will spike.

  35. #85
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    Thanks for an explanation.

    I'm going to check it today. Have to remove damper from the bike and de-asemblly and check shims configuration and during re-assemblly check piston screw tension.

  36. #86
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    I did that.
    I'll post details with pictures shortly (now is working almost perfect) with one question mark... But i'll tell you later today what i was discovered

  37. #87
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    no air pressure

    Hi guys,

    First, want to thank Nick for a GREAT write up.

    Then, my doubt. I have a Pushed DHX 5.0 that came in my used Ironhorse Sunday Team 2008 that I bought on ebay in 2010.

    I don't know anything about the bike before me owning it. I know the shock was Pushed because it has the sticker.

    Now, I understand that if the shock came OEM in a Sunday, it has a special tuning (or so says Dave Weagle), particular for the Sunday, that Fox did. I don't think this is the OEM shock, so I GUESS that is why the previous owner had it Pushed. Anyhow, whether it is the OEM or not, I suppose it was Pushed for the Sunday. Recently I spent a lot of time without riding (because I moved to another country and had snapped my Boxxer in half and bla bla bla) and after almost a year, I finnally got a chance to ride, boosted the shock up to my usual setup and went for a ride.
    A week after, I noticed the bike had a little "play" in the shock area but all the links were fine so I thought it may be the airpressure and indeed there was no pressure at all.
    So I have a leak. The next 3 days it has been losing like 30 psi overnight (consistently, 3 days in a row). I haven't tested (will do it this night afterwork) how much psi does my pump sucks in when connected, but from what I read it shouldn't be more than 15 or maybe 20.
    I am pretty sure I may have ridden the bike without air pressure in the shock at the end of the day that time I rode, maybe, of this I am not sure. But I am sure I cycled the shock many times while on the bike because I was searching for this "play".

    So all I find is that, if you ride it like that (without air pressure), you need to re bleed the shock and stuff. Is that really true? Because if oil cavitates (which is just a change of phase due to pressure) it should go back to the liquid phase after cooling down and the bike laying there for days. Now, if it sucked air in (is this possible as a consequence of no pressure?), that is a problem.

    Let me know what you guys think. Another option is send it back to Push, but I really like doing this things and don't fear them at all. I also wouldn't like to spend the money Push charges for it, and even more important if I don't have to do any rebuild I rather just boost it up (maybe solve the shcradder valve leak by itself) and go just go ride.

    Thanks in advance to you all and keep a good post like this up.
    Last edited by juanpkumicho; 07-23-2012 at 10:44 AM.

  38. #88
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    air leak

    OK, so I tested two things:

    1. The shock pump takes about 20 to 25 psi when I connect it. This number may seem a little high, but I am not surprised since I did these tests with the bottom out all the way in, so the volume in the boost chamber is smaller than with the bottom out completely open.

    2. I sumerged the shock in water and indeed there is a very small air leak in the Schrader valve. The air does not seem to come out of the Schrader but from its outside diameter, suggesting that the leak is between the valve and the boost chamber body.

    I still have the question about the re bleeding if the shock is cycled without air pressure.

  39. #89
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    Hello , any service guide for Fox DHX 5 Air?

  40. #90
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    I have done DHX Air service like this: Operation Fox DHX5 Air Bleed

    Works nicely and quite easy to bleed that shock properly.

  41. #91
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    I'm not able to unscrew the cap to get inside the shock body (step 4 in the manual) using an adjustable wrench. Its torqued very tightly. I tried torching it a bit but still haven't any success. Does anyone have a solution to this? Would getting a 25mm cone wrench help? It was pushed 4 years ago but hasn't had any maintenance since.

    I don't really want to pay to have this rebuilt. Assuming i cant get the cap off, if I fill the piggyback with new oil, will it make it's way back into the body? Or am I stuck having to get it rebuilt now that there's no oil in the shock?

  42. #92
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    no, you cannot fill the piggy.that will not get oil in main chamber or at least will have some air left in the oil,wich is not good.
    Last edited by null; 10-01-2012 at 03:25 AM.
    i am here only to gather knowledge and to offer to others what i know. no bullsht please,so stop wasting good bull !

  43. #93
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    where the heck is the rc4 version on this service?

  44. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by null View Post
    no, you cannot fill the piggy.that will not get oil in main chamber or at least will have some air left in the oil,wich is not good.
    Thanks for the info.

    Here's a tip to make it a bit easier to deal with rebuilding a shock. Put the shock body in a 31.8mm stem and put the stem in the vice. Works great. I managed to get the shaft cap off with this method using a dedicated 25 mm wrench.

    Now, hopefully I'll be able to do the oil change without screwing anything up.

  45. #95
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    Hi there. I have a fox dhx rc4 and was wanting to just change the oil, which steps should I follow as I don't want to do a complete rebuild
    Thanks

  46. #96
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    Hey LowLow did you succeed in changing the oil there?

  47. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by juanpkumicho View Post
    Hey LowLow did you succeed in changing the oil there?
    I did! I opened the piggyback and got the shaft cap open using the method I posted above, dumped out all of the oil, and just filled it back up again based on the method described in the Nick's tutorial and using some Golden Spectro fork oil. Other than getting the shaft cap open, it was pretty straightforward. But I basically skipped steps 5-11, which means that I didn't replace any of the o-rings or take apart the rebound or propedal assembly. The shock seems to work fine though.

    The only odd thing I noticed when taking apart the shock is that the IFP was set to 15/16" instead of 1.3", which is the default setting for my shock. I had my shock pushed 4 years ago so I thought that maybe that's why it's different. I called Push to confirm, but I guess the way they work on the suspension, the IFP may or may not move from its original position. I'm considering opening the piggyback again and moving the IFP to 1.3" to see how it feels.

    Also, I don't know if the RC4 has the same internal parts as my shock, so I'm not sure if you'll run into issues if you decide to open up your shock.

  48. #98
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    I assume you would bleed a Vanilla RC in the same manor as a DHX since they use the same body?

  49. #99
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    Bonking ... not feelin' well

    Quote Originally Posted by Nick_M2R View Post
    A little update guys, have been poking round through the files of the fox service site that used to be uploaded here, and have stumbled across this IFP Depth chart

    As you can see, the depths differ for the DHX 3/4 compared to the 5, which makes sense because the increased IFP depth figures for the 5 are compensating for the bottom out adjuster (which is simply a screwable plug that increases or decrease the volume of the boost valve chamber.)

    Here it is, will update the one in the guide soon....
    ------------------------------------------------
    DHX 5.0 Coil IFP Depth:
    ------------------------------------------------

    I2I - Stroke: Depth (inches):

    7.50 X 2.00 1.250
    7.875 X 2.00 1.250
    7.875 X 2.25 1.300
    8.500 X 2.500 1.350
    8.750 X 2.500 1.350
    9.500 X 3.00 1.480

    ------------------------------------------------
    DHX 3.0/4.0 IFP Depth:
    ------------------------------------------------

    I2I - Stroke: Depth (inches):

    7.50 X 2.00 1.150
    7.875 X 2.00 1.150
    7.875 X 2.25 1.200
    8.50 X 2.500 1.250
    8.75 X 2.500 1.250
    8.75 X 2.750 1.250
    9.00 X 2.500 1.250
    9.00 X 2.750 1.375
    Hello, I saw this interesting post but I'd like to know the IFP depth for a DHX RC4 in 9.5 X 3.00 (241mm X 76mm) anyone could give me that please ?

  50. #100
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    Just for info, I found some info from suspension tuning companies, they said place the IFP at 3mm from bottom position, some said also not more than 5mm.

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