Does anyone have a piccie of a 2008 DHX 4.0 Coil Shocks stock shim stack (say that quickly after 5 beers).
I goosed my shock and the shim stack came apart. Since putting in back together several different ways I can't seem to get the rebound quite right...... anyone any tips.... at all..... please.....
All the best and thanks for any replies (helpful or constructive ones tho )
[SIZE=1]I love my bike and my bike loves me[/SIZE]
I found the o-ring sizes, I have already bought them but I just wanted to doubt check that they weren't metric. I have a 2009 DHX 5.0 so I would love it if you could post up the shim stack.
Righto, here is a pic of the stock shim stack on my 09 DHX, the far left washer is the black steel back plate, between that and the piston is the compression stack, then on the right of the piston is the rebound stack, followed by the piston bolt, make sure that when reassemble the stack, that the flat side of the piston faces down
Does anyone have a piccie of a 2008 DHX 4.0 Coil Shocks stock shim stack (say that quickly after 5 beers).
I goosed my shock and the shim stack came apart. Since putting in back together several different ways I can't seem to get the rebound quite right...... anyone any tips.... at all..... please.....
All the best and thanks for any replies (helpful or constructive ones tho )
Wont be able to give you any promises, but ill have a poke around and see if i can come up with anything
Mine is 8.5 x 2.5, i purchased mine on ebay from a guy who got them direct from fox, and i believe it may have been tuned for the leverage ratio of my stinky, 2.8:1, this may explain the difference from yours, i have heard of the stack differing across the board for the shock
Also, i wouldnt trust some parts of the repair instructions on that site, threadlocking the piston bolt is a bad idea, if you get threadlock on the shims, which is quite easy to do, you will threadlock your shims together, which will damage you shock....
Turns out there are multiple tunes and they vary with length. I've contacted a local suspension tuner for a quick recommendation and I'm about to try it out.
One more thing, the IFP depth.. Is it measured from the flat part of the piston or the little nipple thing?
Turns out there are multiple tunes and they vary with length. I've contacted a local suspension tuner for a quick recommendation and I'm about to try it out.
One more thing, the IFP depth.. Is it measured from the flat part of the piston or the little nipple thing?
k quick question,
How can i tell if my shock needs a rebuild? I just bought my bike from a guy in the states and its in much worse condition than he said it was (he still hasnt replied to my emails).
Anyways, the shock feels fine but the propedal adjustment and all the nobs feel super gritty. I thought rebuilding would be pretty easy but from the looks of it its a pretty big job. Im fine with doing it but i dont want to do it needlessly.
k quick question,
How can i tell if my shock needs a rebuild? I just bought my bike from a guy in the states and its in much worse condition than he said it was (he still hasnt replied to my emails).
Anyways, the shock feels fine but the propedal adjustment and all the nobs feel super gritty. I thought rebuilding would be pretty easy but from the looks of it its a pretty big job. Im fine with doing it but i dont want to do it needlessly.
If only the adjustment knobs are gritty, then simple (for the propedal) remove the screw that is onto of the propedal knob, remove the adjuster (watch out for the detent balls) clean all the dirt out, regrease the balls and their races, then reassemble, same goes for the Bottom out adjuster. Loosen the grub screws on the side of the adjuster, remove it, clean, lightly grease, then reassemble.
A shock generally needs to be rebuilt or rebleed when you hear alot of squelching when cycling the shock, which means air has mixed itself with the oil
The guide is really really good and have dissasembled the shock and rebuilt it due to an ongoing leak behind the pro pedal adjuster, I thought all was sorted..... but unfortuntely the pro pedal is back to leaking again......
On dissasembling the pro-pedal, I found some more bits than were not in the photo from enemy1 (I should have taken photos.... doh)....anyway there was a hex shaft that comes in from the adjuster, then there was a small piece threaded on the outside with a hex cut out in the middle where the shaft of the adjuster fits, this then fitted in via a left hand thread, into a slightly larger piece which had threads both inside and outside..... I replaced an additional o-ring where the adjuster hex shaft part comes into the housing..... but its still leaking..... I tried getting the reservior off but its on bloody tight and I didnt want to damage it...... will dissasemble the whole thing and try more heating!! my wooden blocks have cracked so probably need to get some better wood......
Do you have any more propedal diagrams / photos...... I put these things back in the order 'I thought' they came out ..... just hope they are in right!! Any tips on getting reservoir housing off.
Ps is there any way of working out the year of the shock
No probs luke
Glad to hear you like the guide
With regards to the extra propedal bits, i assume your talking about the internals of the DHX adjuster? For my next update, i plan to simply drill out a hex key so that i can remove the adjuster and get to that propedal o-ring
With regards to removing the chamber, all i can recommend is that you use a high quality hardwood for the clamps (I used some of cuts of Australian river redgum) Softwood wont do it. Then just try giving it some more heat, but be careful!
Let us know how it goes, and if you find any other things inside the DHX let us know!
Cheers!
Right its stopped leaking from the pro-pedal..... The pro pedal adjuster holder that is tightnened down using the custom 8mm allen key thing had come loose and wasnt sitting against the o ring, which was slightly damaged.
I tried drilling and dremeling an 8mm allen key but its way too hard (need a crap soft poundland set). So instead I got a M10 bolt and ground the threads down to 8mm hex then drilled that out, much easier but its a bit soft. Did the job tho. Found after first fitting the pro pedal needs to be full in as otherwise when doing up the holding piece the adjsuter locks out on the adjuster shaft.
Hey, I used your guide to maintain my DHX3 and all went good (apart from having a hard time unscrewing the main body) so thanks a lot for putting this together!
Great step by step guide, thanks. My DHX 5 stripped is down apart from rebound and shaft - more heating and hardwood block I suspect.
A question, you mentioned some DHX (4?) that were fitted to Spec'd that didnt have the air valve for bottom out adjustment - these were nitrogen charged and blank grub screwed off.
My question is, if you take the nylon blank out of the allen key hitting in the grub screw, is it not simply a matter of gently unscrewing this to release the nitrogen charge behind it ie before it flies out the charge will release? Then you can service as normal? If you then replace the grub screw with the normal air valve, that effectively makes it a DHX 4.
Just a thought.
Also more than happy to help you with glossary project if you want. How about an exploded diagram with labels (DHX5 coil) with O ring sizes?
Cheers
Duncan
Last edited by dukenz; 07-07-2010 at 03:21 AM.
Reason: clarity
i was just wondering if i can still use this on my '10 totem solo air. my problem isnt bottoming out too much, its that the last inch of my rebound hardly ever is used. it doesn't have a floodgate so i believe its the DH one. sorry i dont completely understand this yet but could i just put on some slightly smaller shims?
I hope your car has a big trunk because I am going to put my bike in it.
i was just wondering if i can still use this on my '10 totem solo air. my problem isnt bottoming out too much, its that the last inch of my rebound hardly ever is used. it doesn't have a floodgate so i believe its the DH one. sorry i dont completely understand this yet but could i just put on some slightly smaller shims?
Um i think you placed this in the wrong thread, this is for the DHX rebuild, not the mission control tuning
I've read this post and it is absolutely fantastic! One question though; there is mention of the shim stack being in a different order for different years and bikes and such. How can I determine the year my shock was made?
I rebuilt my shock this past spring, and during the ride after, the piston bolt came loose and the shims fell off. So I disassembled it again and reassembled it, but now I have no rebound. From what I've read so far here and other forums, the shims being in the wrong order can cause rebound issues. I bought my bike off ebay and I believe the frame is 2002 0r 2003, and I am only assuming that the shock is stock. Any help is greatly appreciated!
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Originally Posted by kman07
(he still hasnt replied to my emails).
