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  1. #1
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    changing oil in Fox FIT damper without opening cart?

    I'm wondering whether there's some way to do periodic oil changes on the FIT damper without actually opening up the cart body. Would it be possible to simply invert the fork and cycle the damper to drain the oil, then fill it back up while cycling and shaking to free any bubbles? I'm thinking it wouldn't be all that different than a brake bleed.

    This assumes the existing oil is reasonably clean (so its not critical to get ALL the old oil out).

    Thoughts?

  2. #2
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    The FIT forks has the oil inside a bladder, you have to bleed it. The regular Fox forks was open, so you could do what you just said on those.

  3. #3
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    I get that you have to bleed it, but since you can drain and refill the oil from the port on top, do you need to open the cartridge body?

    I'm looking at the service guide here:

    36 mm FIT RLC Cartridge Service Procedures

    In step 12, you drain all the oil without opening the body, so I'm wondering if you can refill it without further disassembly. It seems like you should be able to.

    Mine needs an oil change but I really don't want to mess with the damper internals.

  4. #4
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    Go for it. I did this on my F29 FIT RLC when I first picked it up about a year ago. Just like you said, I inverted the damper over a bucket to let it drain and then cycled the damper rod to 'push' the rest of the oil out - then refilled and bled the damper per Fox' directions.

  5. #5
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    You can definitely do it without disassembling the whole damper. I plan to do exactly that in a month or two, and will try and take some pictures at that time.

  6. #6
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    Yes, it is a simple procedure. Follow Fox's webhelp instructions thru draining the old damper oil, and then reverse for reassembly. If you have the inverted damper it will be necessary to purchase the bleed syringe, or find a suitable alternative, to properly bleed the damper. I happened to have a large funnel that was a perfect fit for my inverted 36RC2.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails changing oil in Fox FIT damper without opening cart?-011rc2_082.gif  


  7. #7
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    Is that a MixMizer syringe?

  8. #8
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    Not sure. Fox has it on their website with a part number.

    *Fox bleed syringe (PN 803-00-276)*

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by bad mechanic View Post
    Is that a MixMizer syringe?
    Yup. You need to attach a piece of plastic tubing to the Mixmizer.

  10. #10
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    Just did my FIT RLC damper. Left the fork on the bike, discharged the spring, unscrewed the lockout bolt, flipped the bike over and cycled fork to drain, then refilled while cycling the fork until there were no more bubbles.

  11. #11
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    I am going to give this a go on my RC2. Can I ask what rebound and compression settings would be best during bleeding?

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by half_man_half_scab View Post
    I am going to give this a go on my RC2. Can I ask what rebound and compression settings would be best during bleeding?
    Fully open.

  13. #13
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    Well...

    RC2 inverted FIT damper one, myself... zero

    I learned many things in the last two hours:

    1) Do not open the cartridge with the rod fully compressed unless you'd like a bath in suspension fluid

    2) The inside of my cartridge was filled with filthy brown liquid

    3) Walmart brand self-amalgamating tape dissolves in Fox suspension fluid

    4) It's better to have a short and squat syringe than a long and skinny one

    5) The order of operations once the damper is mostly full with fresh fluid is: compress damper rod, massage bladder and hold for up to five minutes or more while bubbles rise, slowly extend rod, and repeat (right?)

    My fundamental problem was that I didn't have the right syringe. I spent the better part of last Friday trying to find a suitable substitute for the Fox syringe in Durango and came home empty handed (I'm not a creative person when it comes to improvising tools). I decided to go with my little 30ml syringe I had on hand and wrap the nossel with the afore mentioned tape, which was not a good plan.

    I think tomorrow I'm going to look for a squeeze bottle like the one in AndyN's picture, cutoff the bottom, and attach tubing to the nozzle to get a tight fit. See how that works.

    Any tips, things that I've missed or done wrong beyond what I've mentioned already?

  14. #14
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    Turkey baster maybe?

  15. #15
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    strip of innertube will work better than tape, but best to get a syringe. auto parts store or lawnmower shop will have them. getting a good seal is key.

  16. #16
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    The picture I posted is from Fox's webhelp page. I just used a medium size plastic funnel to fill my damper, it happened to fit snugly as is. Measure the diameter of your fill port, and buy a plastic funnel that has a tip that size, or smaller. If it fits, you're set, if not you can trim the end to fit - as long as the stem is conical.

    You don't need a fancy syringe, or even a graduated cylinder since you're filling the damper completely. Once no more air bubbles come out, you're done.

  17. #17
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    I found a baby bottle with a thick tapered rubber nipple that should work well as "tubing" material. I like the turkey baster idea as it's clear, tapered, cheap, and I won't have to hunt for it.

    Let you know how it goes this evening.

  18. #18
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    You can get the same syringe that Fox sells at Walmart automotive department. It is called the mixmizer syringe. It is used to measure and dispense 2 stroke oil for lawn mowers and dirt bikes.

  19. #19
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    Seemed like I got a good bleed, but when I went to put her all together I don't get the detents on the low speed compression knob anymore. Any ideas?

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by half_man_half_scab View Post
    Seemed like I got a good bleed, but when I went to put her all together I don't get the detents on the low speed compression knob anymore. Any ideas?
    Ball bearing out of place or missing?

    Edit: nevermind, was thinking of the HSC knob.

    Maybe the compression adjuster assembly isn't fully seated? Did you follow Fox's instructions?

  21. #21
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    Followed the instructions, reseated the compression assembly keys just in case. The lockring is firmly in place. The HSC knob turns fine but the LSC feels stuck in position. When I dial the HSC all the way in and then attempt to adjust the LSC knob it makes a squeaky noise.

    At the beginning I set everything to full open before disassembly, went to take the screw off the knobs but fox loctited it from the factory. I hope I didn't damage something breaking the locktite. If so, goddamit fox. I called the service center, but the guy was brick wall, no advice outta him. I told him it was out of warranty and he says, "Oh that's okay, just send it in and we'll take care of it... for the base price of 125..." LOL. I felt like telling him, "I'd like to continue breaking it before I pay anything."

    I assume that the mechanism controlling the detents is mechanical rather than hydraulic, and its malfunction is not a direct result of the bleeding process. I'll try bleeding it again anyway, and make double sure to do everything by the numbers.

  22. #22
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    So I'm thinking I've botched the threads on the items in this man's left hand (the LSC adjuster) and right hand (the LSC coupler).



    Alternatively, it could be this LSC Spring detent wire has been unseated. It looks like this is the item that produces the click when you turn the knob.

    I'm hoping for the alternative, though I've got a feeling this is not the case.

    I'm going to take the bladder plug out again and jiggle the top of the lsc adjuster to see what that does for me. If that doesn't work, I'm going to invest in the soft jaws and crows feet to break 'er down.

  23. #23
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    I'd say either is possible, hopefully just the detent wire has dislodged. Keep us posted on what you find, and good luck.

  24. #24
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    Whew! Got it done! I was right, the threads of the adjuster were topped out at the end of the coupler, causing it to bind somehow.

    A few pics:

    Here's my redneck soft jaws. Everything else with the exception of torquing the compression assembly to the damper tube (where the hell are you going to find 21mm crow's foot adapters? Why Fox, WHY?!) was done properly with a torque wrench.


    Everything was in good shape except...


    I tweaked the adjuster a little before I knew the reason for my loss of detents on the LSC.


    And I found the Mixmizer syringe at Walmart to do the job right.

    Pretty happy I didn't have to send it in to Fox and drop any change other than the damper fluid and syringe hunt.

    Unfortunately, I'm still waiting on the warranty replacement for my cracked frame, so I won't be able to ride it for a week at least. The pogoing the steerer on the floor test feels good, though

  25. #25
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    Hi guys,
    I'm having problem with my Talas 32 rlc (fit damper) fork. It's very sticky when pushing it down slowly. Everything feels good when cycling fork fast and hard. So I'm thinking that oil is to thick for my weight (about 75kg). Talked with 2 guys from one, better equiped shop in my area and one of them said that he's almost sure it's because of the oil. He had one talas himself and changing oil did miracles to his fork. So I though I will give it a try before I sell this damn thing away.
    So it's that simple - just turn out the lockout assembly, drain oil out and refil damper with new oil? And it will work just fine without this fancy Fox dismouting of everything?
    Please share Your knowledge

    Regards,
    Martin

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