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  1. #1
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    Calling All Avy Owners ... Adjustment Knobs on Avalanche Fork Cartridges

    Wanna be able to make quick conditions adjustment without having to pull out the screw driver?

    Would there be any interest in being able to purchase some knobs for your cartridges from Avalanche?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Calling All Avy Owners ... Adjustment Knobs on Avalanche Fork Cartridges-compression-adjuster-knob.jpg  

    It takes half a joule more to accelerate Brass Nipples over Alloy Nipples on a 29er to 30kph.

  2. #2
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    Are you making them or is Craig?

  3. #3
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    Interesting. I heard Craig experimented with knobs way back when. Not sure what happened to that but I think the idea was you fine tune a few times and then leave it... kinda like moto suspension.
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  4. #4
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    I've never wanted to adjust mine that frequently to want the knobs. They'd be nice, but I probably wouldn't pay for them. Unlike a 180mm spindle for my 190mm spindle race face Next cranks. That I'd pay for. I've found craig's stuff is usually dial and forget. His suggestions as far as muddy conditions/etc. are usually spot on, but I only find myself turning the rebound 1-3 clicks and the compression almost never after getting it dialed.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  5. #5
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    Yeah. Even my Push suspension is set and forget despite having fancy knobs on my Fox 36 and DHX with MX tune.
    Intense 951 Evo and Intense Carbine 29

  6. #6
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    Craig would be making them but would need quite a few kits ordered to start production. I don't really think I need the knobs but I was throwing it out there.

    $89 for Rebound and Compression.
    It takes half a joule more to accelerate Brass Nipples over Alloy Nipples on a 29er to 30kph.

  7. #7
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    I was about to add that I'd take back what I said if they were real cheap, like $20 or less. For that much? No way. Again, nice to have, not necessary. Not something I adjust enough to make it worth it. I find the initial setup is where you tend to make the most adjustments, but after that initial period, it'd simply be dead weight.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  8. #8
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    Agreed, I'd pay about $10-15 for them but no more than that. I almost never adjust them.

  9. #9
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    I don't touch my Woodie on my big bike. I was messing a bit with my fork cartridge a click here, and a click there but after talking to Craig, he set me straight and I haven't really touched it since. 89 'merican dollars?? I agree, nice to have but not needed.
    Intense 951 Evo and Intense Carbine 29

  10. #10
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    I'd have to agree with everyone else, I don't play with my Chubie much. I have a dime & 9mm wrench in the pack & they just stay there.

    Now if you could get Craig to make a 1.5-2" long 9mm wrench head with a 45* screw driver head on the other end tool I'd be all over that.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Christopher Robin View Post
    kinda like moto suspension.
    And car suspension.

    If you need to fiddle with knobs all the time, then the base tune is very wrong for you.
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz and NZ Manitou Agent.
    www.dougal.co.nz Suspension setup & tuning.
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by eshew View Post
    I'd have to agree with everyone else, I don't play with my Chubie much. I have a dime & 9mm wrench in the pack & they just stay there.

    Now if you could get Craig to make a 1.5-2" long 9mm wrench head with a 45* screw driver head on the other end tool I'd be all over that.
    Funny you mention that. I considered cutting a 9mm wrench in half and 2" off a small flathead screwdriver and JB Welding those two together. Then you could secure it under your seat or something. Yup... Weekend project for me.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    And car suspension.

    If you need to fiddle with knobs all the time, then the base tune is very wrong for you.
    100%

  14. #14
    FM
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    I dunno, voice of dissent here.
    • I've owned several frames where accessing the resi with tools is really difficult- like if the shock is parallel to the top tube on a small/med frame. Not a unique problem to Avy, also applies to Cane Creek etc.
    • When I had a chubie on my old TNT-link Turner RFX, I found the settings I liked for DH trails tended to squat while climbing XC stuff... and the settings liked for jump lines didn't work well for natural tech. Sure I could compromise, but I ended up preferring an air shock with some sort of compression adjustment lever for most of my riding. But hey, may be a unique problem for me & that frame, which didn't pedal that well IMHO.
    • Mostly I feel like having to use a tool to adjust a top-end $$$ shock just doesn't make sense. Where is the benefit of not having knobs? Or is it something you all are willing to deal with because the shock is so awesome otherwise? Does that mean you actually prefer not having knobs? Be honest with yourself here, you're paying for it.



    Despite all that- I never screw with my fork, and I was REALLY impressed with the chubie's feel. Craig's tuning a shock for me now.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    And car suspension.

    If you need to fiddle with knobs all the time, then the base tune is very wrong for you.
    Ages ago I would adjust the Tokiko shocks on my Toyota MR2 for everyday driving, mountain roads, or auto crossing.

    But I still wouldn't buy knobs for my Avalanche front suspension. I put the fork on, rode for a while, changed the rebound by two clicks, and haven't wanted to change anything since. I'd rather not have a knob because then I might mess something up.
    "Thank you, God, for letting me have another day"
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  16. #16
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    Knobs are nice, but looking at the pic at the top I'm guessing these are fork knobs, not rear shock knobs.

    That being said, it would be nice to have HS & LS knobs on the rear rather than the 9mm & dime. But at what cost? & Most rear shocks require atleast an allen key to turn. I don't assume it would be a diy type deal on the rear shock, more of an in house option.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM View Post
    I dunno, voice of dissent here.
    • I've owned several frames where accessing the resi with tools is really difficult- like if the shock is parallel to the top tube on a small/med frame. Not a unique problem to Avy, also applies to Cane Creek etc.
    • When I had a chubie on my old TNT-link Turner RFX, I found the settings I liked for DH trails tended to squat while climbing XC stuff... and the settings liked for jump lines didn't work well for natural tech. Sure I could compromise, but I ended up preferring an air shock with some sort of compression adjustment lever for most of my riding. But hey, may be a unique problem for me & that frame, which didn't pedal that well IMHO.
    • Mostly I feel like having to use a tool to adjust a top-end $$$ shock just doesn't make sense. Where is the benefit of not having knobs? Or is it something you all are willing to deal with because the shock is so awesome otherwise? Does that mean you actually prefer not having knobs? Be honest with yourself here, you're paying for it.



    Despite all that- I never screw with my fork, and I was REALLY impressed with the chubie's feel. Craig's tuning a shock for me now.

    Those TNT frames had a lot of squat.
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz and NZ Manitou Agent.
    www.dougal.co.nz Suspension setup & tuning.
    SPV Devolve

  18. #18
    FM
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    Those TNT frames had a lot of squat.
    I agree. I've certainly had other bikes (like my evil following) that don't seem to really need any climb-switch type thing.

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