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  1. #1
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    Attention Fox TALAS Experts - Help Please!

    Hello. I have a 2009 Fox 36 TALAS RC2, with the TALAS III system, and unfortunately the TALAS travel adjustment is no longer working properly, I'm hoping someone can help me out. Also, let me just apologize in advance for the long winded post. First of all, some background info. I had both an '09 VAN RC2 and an '09 TALAS RC2. I love the travel adjustments on the TALAS, but wanted the black lowers of the VAN, so I replaced the coil spring assembly in the VAN with the TALAS air cartridge. The conversion went smoothly and the fork has been functioning great for the last few months, until recently. On a recent ride, the fork became stuck down in the 130mm setting, and would not extend back out to the 160mm setting. So, I pulled the TALAS air cartridge out, and took it apart to try and figure out what the problem was.

    Here's a picture of the TALAS III assembly, disassembled:


    In the Fox service manuals, it says that in the travel adjustment ports in the side of the outer tube you should be able to see red through the 2 outer sets of 2 port holes, and a brass color through the middle set of 4 port holes. And this was the case a few months ago when I did the VAN to TALAS conversion. Upon pulling it apart this time however, I noticed that I could see red through 1 outer set of port holes (left arrow in the picture below), I could sort of see a brass color in the middle set of port holes (middle arrow below), and I could not see any color, just black, through the other set of outer port holes (right arrow below). Now, the service manual says that you should see those colors through the port holes, but doesn't say what to do if you don't see those colors. Obviously, there's a problem.


    So, I proceeded to take the TALAS upper assembly apart, to see if I could figure out the problem. Here's a picture of the TALAS upper assembly, disassembled:


    When I removed the outer tube from the rest of the upper assembly, I noticed another possible problem. There's a rod inside the outer tube that came sliding out. The Fox service manuals make no mention at all of this little rod, which leads me to believe that it's not supposed to come sliding out like that (if it were supposed to, then I'm convinced the service manuals would've made mention of it). Could the outer tube internals be broken somehow? Is this rod supposed to be attached in there? The arrow in the picture below shows the rod I'm referring to, partially out of the outer tube:


    And, here's a picture of the rod, completely removed from the outer tube:


    So, does anyone have any ideas as to what the problem might be? How come I'm not seeing the colors I'm supposed to through some of the port holes in the outer tube of the upper assembly, and how do I fix it so that I do? And what is that rod? Should it be attached inside the outer tube, and not come sliding out like that?

    Also, something that may be important to note is that I put it all back together again with fresh oil and FLOAT fluid, even though I know something's wrong, just to see what would happen. As expected, the TALAS travel adjustment was still not working properly. So, upon pulling it apart once again I noticed that everything was covered in black oil, not the clean oil and fluid I had put in it when I reassembled it. This may just be due to me not cleaning out the inside of the lower/stanchion prior to reassembling, but thought it was worth mentioning anyways.

    So, anyone have any advice for me? Any advice would be very much appreciated. Thanks.

  2. #2
    MattSavage
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    Can't help you with the internals... But I'm curious why you didn't just swap lowers?
    "I wrote a hit play! What have you ever done?!"

    Have Ashtray, Will Travel....

  3. #3
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    Because I wanted to keep the black crown from the VAN to match the black lowers, instead of the gray TALAS crown that matches the gray TALAS lowers.

  4. #4
    MattSavage
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    Ooooh... makes sense.
    "I wrote a hit play! What have you ever done?!"

    Have Ashtray, Will Travel....

  5. #5
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    I hear you on the color thing.... I was shoping for something other than the Talas until they brought black back for 2011.

    I did hear that the lowers on talas are different then VAN in that they machine the inside to a more clear finish... I just assumed that was for fitment or travel settings, but perhaps that caused an issue for you?

  6. #6
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    Interesting. That's the first I've heard of that, VAN & TALAS lowers being different. Before doing the conversion, I asked around and the consensus was that the lowers are exactly the same. Can anyone confirm this?

    However, after I did the conversion, everything was working great for a few months (3-4 days a week of use), so I'm not sure what would've suddenly caused the problem.

  7. #7
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    Fox told me last year that you couldn't swap Van lowers for Talas or Float lowers because the Van lowers are not anodized on the inside in order to keep them airtight. Since Van forks are not air forks they don't need as much treatment on the inside surface of the lowers to operate efficiently. But apparently Fox heard about this from enough folks that now all of their 2011 Talas forks are black.

  8. #8
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    Ok, so it's true. Talked to Fox tech support. You can't go from a VAN to a TALAS, but you can go from a TALAS to a VAN. Inside of spring side stanchion is different. I've already switched mine back. Good thing I didn't ride the VAN in the TALAS body.

    Still doesn't explain the problem with my TALAS cart. Still need to get that fixed. Any ideas?

  9. #9
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    Bump... No TALAS experts? I thought for sure someone on here would know what the problem is.

  10. #10
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    you shoulde'nt dissamble the all thing

    you just have to close the 1.5 hex bolt in the bottom of the talas top cart until the brass thing can be seen throu the midlle hole.

    sorry for my sppeling

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nevegal
    Fox told me last year that you couldn't swap Van lowers for Talas or Float lowers because the Van lowers are not anodized on the inside in order to keep them airtight. Since Van forks are not air forks they don't need as much treatment on the inside surface of the lowers to operate efficiently. But apparently Fox heard about this from enough folks that now all of their 2011 Talas forks are black.
    Rubbish,
    The Floats and the TALAS systems are a closed system. (The lowers are not designed to hold any air, just oil). You are able to drop the lowers to do a seal/oil service without worrying about discharging the fork (unless there is a leak).

    I don't see why, for example, a 36R float lower will not work with say a 36 Van R - same foot nuts, and bushing diameter, and length - never done it though

  12. #12
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    I don't know what is causing your issue, but their are more parts inside that tube. There are short colored sleeves separated by tiny o-rings. One of those o-rings might be bad allowing air to go somewhere it shouldn't.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by assaf_angel
    you just have to close the 1.5 hex bolt in the bottom of the talas top cart until the brass thing can be seen throu the midlle hole.
    Thanks, I didn't even know that adjustment was there. I tried tightening that little bolt (and loosening) to see what would happen. I can now see red through both sets of outer port holes, but I can no longer see the brass color through the middle port holes. Weird! Something is obviously wrong in there.


    Quote Originally Posted by cort
    Rubbish,
    The Floats and the TALAS systems are a closed system. (The lowers are not designed to hold any air, just oil). You are able to drop the lowers to do a seal/oil service without worrying about discharging the fork (unless there is a leak).

    I don't see why, for example, a 36R float lower will not work with say a 36 Van R - same foot nuts, and bushing diameter, and length - never done it though
    That's what I thought too. But I did get confirmation from Fox tech support that you cannot go from a VAN to a TALAS/FLOAT, however you can go from a TALAS/FLOAT to a VAN. When I was switching them back I had a look inside the lowers & stanchions on each fork. The lowers do look the same inside, however the inside of the spring side stanchion is different. There seems to be a different material coating the inside of the stanchion on the VAN, not sure what it is, but the 2 are definitely different. Something I didn't notice when I did the original conversion.


    Quote Originally Posted by Raja
    I don't know what is causing your issue, but their are more parts inside that tube. There are short colored sleeves separated by tiny o-rings. One of those o-rings might be bad allowing air to go somewhere it shouldn't.
    This is likely what the issue is. Problem is however, I have no idea how to take the tube apart to check it out. No mention is made of this in the Fox service manuals. Have you done this before? I can remove the little bolt that assaf_angel was referring to above, and a little tiny spring that sits behind the bolt comes out with it, however I'm unsure of how to proceed with the disassembly after that. Anyone have any experience with this?

    Thanks for all the help everyone, I appreciate it.

  14. #14
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    Where did you find the Fox service manual for the TALAS system? My 2010 36 TALAS is misbehaving; the travel adjust feature isn't working anymore, it's always at 160mm of travel now. And, btw, to the OP, I think that's the TALAS II, not III.

    (before some smarta$$ says "check the Fox website, duh", I already did, and all they have is an owner's manual for the 2010 TALAS III)

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtg7aa
    Where did you find the Fox service manual for the TALAS system?
    It can be found in the Tech Center section on the Fox website: http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/index.htm


    Quote Originally Posted by mtg7aa
    And, btw, to the OP, I think that's the TALAS II, not III.
    No, it's the TALAS III, I'm sure of it (it's a MY 2009 fork). What makes you think it's a TALAS II?

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Freerider
    It can be found in the Tech Center section on the Fox website: http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/index.htm




    No, it's the TALAS III, I'm sure of it (it's a MY 2009 fork). What makes you think it's a TALAS II?

    Thanks for the link, I knew Fox had service info, but couldn't find it.
    I think I was wrong about the TALAS II comment, I thought that because my MY10 TALAS has a different adjuster cap, and I thought that's how you could tell the difference between them, but looking at the service manual makes me think for MY10 they just changed the top cap, and the internals have been TALAS III since before MY10. In the service manual, TALAS II looks completely different. Sorry about that...

  17. #17
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    it's very hard to fix ones you crack the thing apart

    Quote Originally Posted by Freerider
    Thanks, I didn't even know that adjustment was there. I tried tightening that little bolt (and loosening) to see what would happen. I can now see red through both sets of outer port holes, but I can no longer see the brass color through the middle port holes. Weird! Something is obviously wrong in there.




    That's what I thought too. But I did get confirmation from Fox tech support that you cannot go from a VAN to a TALAS/FLOAT, however you can go from a TALAS/FLOAT to a VAN. When I was switching them back I had a look inside the lowers & stanchions on each fork. The lowers do look the same inside, however the inside of the spring side stanchion is different. There seems to be a different material coating the inside of the stanchion on the VAN, not sure what it is, but the 2 are definitely different. Something I didn't notice when I did the original conversion.




    This is likely what the issue is. Problem is however, I have no idea how to take the tube apart to check it out. No mention is made of this in the Fox service manuals. Have you done this before? I can remove the little bolt that assaf_angel was referring to above, and a little tiny spring that sits behind the bolt comes out with it, however I'm unsure of how to proceed with the disassembly after that. Anyone have any experience with this?

    Thanks for all the help everyone, I appreciate it.
    you have to take all the internals out side by order and then assemble it all together with all the tiny o rings and replace any worn o ring if you see one.
    the assembly is very hard .you need to put all the parts together without damage the o rings.
    then put 5 cc of oil and it should work

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by assaf_angel
    you have to take all the internals out side by order and then assemble it all together with all the tiny o rings and replace any worn o ring if you see one.
    the assembly is very hard .you need to put all the parts together without damage the o rings.
    then put 5 cc of oil and it should work
    The assembly shouldn't be too hard, as I have found the following diagram (from the Fox service site) to show the order in which everything goes back together:


    The problem is however trying to figure out how to disassemble the outer tube to get out all those internal parts so that they can be inspected for damage. The rod that came sliding out, as explained in my initial post, is "Inner Tube Valve 4" in the diagram. The rest of the inner tube valves and o-rings don't slide out the way the other one did. Any idea how to get them out of there?

    And, when you say put in 5cc of oil, do you mean pour 5cc of float fluid into the outer tube after the inner tube valves and o-rings have been put back in?

    Thanks again for the help!

  19. #19
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    I think I'm at the same point you are- it appears that one or more little o-rings inside that valve tube need replacing on mine.

  20. #20
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    Were you able to remove the inner tube valves and o-rings from the outer tube? Apparently they can just be pushed through using an old spoke or something similar. I will be doing that tonight.

  21. #21
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    I probably could have, but didn't try it since I don't have new ones yet. If you take the small hollow set screw out of the bottom (p/n 018-01-27 above), then you should be able to just push everything out the bottom. I think.

  22. #22
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    Yes, you take the 018-01-27 screw out, along with the tapered spring and ball. Then you can stick a spoke (or something similar) in there and push everything out the other end (the larger end without the insert). At least this is what I was told to do. I'll be trying it tonight, to inspect the inner tube valves and o-rings for damage.

    How do you know you need new o-rings, if you haven't looked at them yet? When you look through the port holes in the outer tube, do you see red through the 2 sets of outer holes, and brass through the inner holes?

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Freerider
    How do you know you need new o-rings, if you haven't looked at them yet? When you look through the port holes in the outer tube, do you see red through the 2 sets of outer holes, and brass through the inner holes?
    Because when I put the inner rod (the one connected to the travel adjust knob) back in, when it passed through the o-rings, it felt like they were damaged. I'm not completely sure that's the problem, but it didn't feel right. And, now, thinking about how the system works, I'm going to inspect the check ball at the bottom again- I don't remember that moving as freely as it probably should.

  24. #24
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    If your fork is a MY 2010, then it's most likely still under warranty. Why don't you just send it back to Fox to have the TALAS serviced? That way you can ensure all damaged parts are replaced and everything is working properly, free of charge.

    My fork is just out of warranty, hence why I'm doing this myself to save a few bucks, not to mention to learn how it works.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Freerider
    If your fork is a MY 2010, then it's most likely still under warranty. Why don't you just send it back to Fox to have the TALAS serviced? That way you can ensure all damaged parts are replaced and everything is working properly, free of charge.

    My fork is just out of warranty, hence why I'm doing this myself to save a few bucks, not to mention to learn how it works.
    Because my shock just got back from warranty, and it took about 3 weeks. I was OK with that since I happened to have another shock that I could use in the mean time.

    I don't have another fork, and I'm not willing to wait 3 weeks.

  26. #26
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    Ah, I understand, makes sense. I actually have a DHX air that's back at Fox for warranty, and they've had it for over a month now. Like you, I have another shock to ride, but I wouldn't be very happy if I couldn't ride this whole time. Also have the VAN fork to ride while I'm figuring out my TALAS issues, so fortunately no down time for me. I thought Fox service in the US was much faster than up here in Canada, but I guess not!

  27. #27
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    really interesting topic here, I had strange talas (36 2009) behaviour and opened the talas part.
    Did all explained here BUT the proper positioning of the 1.5hex nut.
    So my talas now perform from 100 to 120 instead of 130, no problem for 160 position.
    all ok from 160 to 130, from 130 to 100 sometimes it stops at 110.
    I think there is something with the internal o'rings or the hex nut not well positioned, I'll investigate as soon as I remove the talas to fit the VAN spring.

    I purchased an used VAN 36 160 coil spring to replace the talas system and I'm looking for a 36 VAN CAP to replace the TALAS CAP.

    I read that you can swap from TALAS to VAN, but changing what exactly?

    of course the upper CAP, the coil spring ... and then ? all I need are these parts?
    the inner shaft of the talas system is different that the van one, but this talas shaft could be ok with the VAN coil spring? does the coil usage will damage that talas shaft? Of course I would like to swap back to TALAS for long climbing epic rides.. this is the question.

    cheers from Italy! :O)

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by cybern
    really interesting topic here, I had strange talas (36 2009) behaviour and opened the talas part.
    Did all explained here BUT the proper positioning of the 1.5hex nut.
    So my talas now perform from 100 to 120 instead of 130, no problem for 160 position.
    all ok from 160 to 130, from 130 to 100 sometimes it stops at 110.
    I think there is something with the internal o'rings or the hex nut not well positioned, I'll investigate as soon as I remove the talas to fit the VAN spring.

    I purchased an used VAN 36 160 coil spring to replace the talas system and I'm looking for a 36 VAN CAP to replace the TALAS CAP.

    I read that you can swap from TALAS to VAN, but changing what exactly?

    of course the upper CAP, the coil spring ... and then ? all I need are these parts?
    the inner shaft of the talas system is different that the van one, but this talas shaft could be ok with the VAN coil spring? does the coil usage will damage that talas shaft? Of course I would like to swap back to TALAS for long climbing epic rides.. this is the question.

    cheers from Italy! :O)
    Yes you can do the swap. But please keep in mind that once you do, you will no tbe able to re-install the TALAS assembly due to the spring scratching the inner stanchion wall. For the TALAS system to function properly the inner stanchion wall MUST be smooth and free of any marks

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by cort
    Yes you can do the swap. But please keep in mind that once you do, you will no tbe able to re-install the TALAS assembly due to the spring scratching the inner stanchion wall. For the TALAS system to function properly the inner stanchion wall MUST be smooth and free of any marks
    ok thank you, this is the info I was looking for

    unfortunately this means no "talas to van" convertion

    that's life.

    cheers

  30. #30
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    Also the vans have a hydraulic bottom out circuit which the (08 and later?) TALAS forks lack, so you might find the fork would be a bit too linear and prone to bottoming out.
    Alas, that the longest hill
    Must end in a vale

    Henry Charles Beeching 1859-1919

  31. #31
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    Sorry, I'm just confusing things here. some MY of the talas do have the BO circuit, some don't, but I'm not really sure which is which
    Alas, that the longest hill
    Must end in a vale

    Henry Charles Beeching 1859-1919

  32. #32
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    @ Freerider:
    what was the result of your findings? Did you fixed it?

    I have currently the problem (32 2009):
    1) The talas is not working (always at 140mm)
    2) The fork rebound extremely slow

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by slackfreak View Post
    @ Freerider:
    what was the result of your findings? Did you fixed it?

    I have currently the problem (32 2009):
    1) The talas is not working (always at 140mm)
    2) The fork rebound extremely slow
    Yes, I was able to fix the problem. Inside the TALAS assembly outer tube, there was a little tiny o-ring with a tear in it. Once this was replaced it worked again. I ordered the TALAS assembly rebuild kit, which comes with all of the necessary o-rings. I also replaced the other o-rings for good measure. It sounds like you may be having a similar problem with your TALAS cart.

    As for the rebound issue, that doesn't sound like it would be related to the TALAS air spring. That seems like it might be a problem with your dampening cartridge in the other fork leg, as this is the cartridge that controls rebound and compression. I'm not sure, but it sounds like you might be having problems with both the air spring, and the cartridge.

  34. #34
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    Good to hear you got your fork working again. I have a 2010 Talas 160 and will be taking it in again.

    Bought the fork used, but with only a few rides on it (it could have passed for new). Road the fork for about 6-8 months and started to notice is didn't feel as smooth & responsive as before. Took it in to have the oil changed and also properly setup for me. When I got it back it felt very nice again.

    Started to ride the bike (6&6 AM bike) on more technically difficult trails and really started to like the 36 chassis in terms of the almost total lack of flex and feel of the fork. That is when the Talas stopped working. Fork was stuck at full travel, which was actually closer to 170mm, no matter which setting the Talas dial was on. Took it back in to have it fixed, shop reset the Talas mechanism and all was good again, but for a much shorter interval.

    Only got a few rides on it, primarily leaving it in the mid travel position and riding some technical XC rides on the shore. Then I did one extended ride that had a boat load of descending at had the fork at full travel for the day. Noticed at the end of the day the Talas was no longer working.

    Will be taking it back in this week for repair again. Was told that the 3 position Talas will go out of adjustment if ridden aggressively, especially if used in a lower travel setting.

    I really hope this was just a glitch as I like the stiffness of the 36 chassis and how the fork feels when it works. The other key is the Talas feature, lowest travel for short steep climbs, mid travel for tighter trails and better handling on corners, and full travel for steeper and rougher terrain.

    Can anyone else comment on this or advise on their experience in using a Talas fork for more than just trail riding. Can the Talas 36 handle light free riding and work without being serviced every 10-15 hours?

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by rideitall View Post
    Good to hear you got your fork working again. I have a 2010 Talas 160 and will be taking it in again.

    Bought the fork used, but with only a few rides on it (it could have passed for new). Road the fork for about 6-8 months and started to notice is didn't feel as smooth & responsive as before. Took it in to have the oil changed and also properly setup for me. When I got it back it felt very nice again.

    Started to ride the bike (6&6 AM bike) on more technically difficult trails and really started to like the 36 chassis in terms of the almost total lack of flex and feel of the fork. That is when the Talas stopped working. Fork was stuck at full travel, which was actually closer to 170mm, no matter which setting the Talas dial was on. Took it back in to have it fixed, shop reset the Talas mechanism and all was good again, but for a much shorter interval.

    Only got a few rides on it, primarily leaving it in the mid travel position and riding some technical XC rides on the shore. Then I did one extended ride that had a boat load of descending at had the fork at full travel for the day. Noticed at the end of the day the Talas was no longer working.

    Will be taking it back in this week for repair again. Was told that the 3 position Talas will go out of adjustment if ridden aggressively, especially if used in a lower travel setting.

    I really hope this was just a glitch as I like the stiffness of the 36 chassis and how the fork feels when it works. The other key is the Talas feature, lowest travel for short steep climbs, mid travel for tighter trails and better handling on corners, and full travel for steeper and rougher terrain.

    Can anyone else comment on this or advise on their experience in using a Talas fork for more than just trail riding. Can the Talas 36 handle light free riding and work without being serviced every 10-15 hours?
    I've ridden mine pretty hard, and other than the above problem with the TALAS cart, there have been no problems. I give it a basic service regularly though to keep it running smooth.

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Freerider View Post
    I've ridden mine pretty hard, and other than the above problem with the TALAS cart, there have been no problems. I give it a basic service regularly though to keep it running smooth.
    Thx for the response. What type of service are you doing and how often?

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by rideitall View Post
    Thx for the response. What type of service are you doing and how often?
    Just a basic oil change about every month or 2, depending on use (drop the lowers, drain the oil, clean out inside of lowers and stanchions, new oil). And a full rebuild of the damp cart about twice a year (it's a fully sealed unit so takes a while to become contaminated). As for the TALAS air spring assembly, I never service this. Only time I've had it apart and given it a service was when I was having the above issue. It's much more complicated to pull apart, so I avoid it!

  38. #38
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    I've had alot of problems with my 2010 talas cart.
    Sent it in 2 times under warranty.
    It seemed to go out pretty quickly each time it came back.
    After the last time about a year ago it seemed to work well for the following 6 months or so.
    But the last few months it has been hit or miss.
    Sometimes it works, sometimes not.
    I mostly only use the 160-130 setting these days.
    I've gotten pretty tired of it so I just ordered a float cart to convert it over.
    I was at downieville last year and had to do the whole ride pretty much stuck at 100mm, which really sucked.
    Felt like going OTB the whole time, and actually did once.
    It was weird because mine would usually stick at the 160 setting.
    On that trip, it would sag all the way down to 100.
    I would get off the bike and it would lift up to 160.
    Then reweight the bike and slowly sag to 100.
    I didn't realise it was happening until about half way through the ride, but was wondering why I felt so sketched out prior to that.
    I hope the system has been simplified with the newer forks being as they only have 2 settings now.

    BTW, I service my bath oil every couple months or so.
    Probably due for a damper service as well, but all feels good.
    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Freerider View Post
    Yes, I was able to fix the problem. Inside the TALAS assembly outer tube, there was a little tiny o-ring with a tear in it. Once this was replaced it worked again. I ordered the TALAS assembly rebuild kit, which comes with all of the necessary o-rings. I also replaced the other o-rings for good measure. It sounds like you may be having a similar problem with your TALAS cart.

    As for the rebound issue, that doesn't sound like it would be related to the TALAS air spring. That seems like it might be a problem with your dampening cartridge in the other fork leg, as this is the cartridge that controls rebound and compression. I'm not sure, but it sounds like you might be having problems with both the air spring, and the cartridge.
    Thank for your fast response!

    Why I think the slow rebound could be a side effect of the defect Talas:
    1) Change the rebound setting take effect, that mean that with an open rebound the fork uncompress faster as with an closed rebound.
    2) I think that the Talas now don't compress the air as it should. It easy let the air go from one part of the system to the other. (I do not know if this could be technically possible - what do you think?). For information: the fork did not lose the pressure of 120psi.

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by slackfreak View Post
    Thank for your fast response!

    Why I think the slow rebound could be a side effect of the defect Talas:
    1) Change the rebound setting take effect, that mean that with an open rebound the fork uncompress faster as with an closed rebound.
    2) I think that the Talas now don't compress the air as it should. It easy let the air go from one part of the system to the other. (I do not know if this could be technically possible - what do you think?). For information: the fork did not lose the pressure of 120psi.
    Yes, I believe air can escape from one "chamber" within the TALAS cart to another, most likely because one of the little tiny o-rings I previously mentioned needs to be replaced (as I had to do). You can pull it apart to look for a damaged o-ring, and replace as necessary with the TALAS cart rebuild kit. There are instructions on how to do so in the Fox website service section, as well as exploded diagrams of all of the parts. However, word of warning, it's a fairly complex assembly, and is not a simple job to disassemble/reassemble.

    Also, why are you running so much pressure (120 PSI)? That seems really high. I run mine about 60 PSI, and I'm 200 lbs (I'm on a 2009 36 TALAS).

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by savagemann View Post
    I've had alot of problems with my 2010 talas cart.
    Sent it in 2 times under warranty.
    It seemed to go out pretty quickly each time it came back.
    After the last time about a year ago it seemed to work well for the following 6 months or so.
    But the last few months it has been hit or miss.
    Sometimes it works, sometimes not.
    I mostly only use the 160-130 setting these days.
    I've gotten pretty tired of it so I just ordered a float cart to convert it over.
    I was at downieville last year and had to do the whole ride pretty much stuck at 100mm, which really sucked.
    Felt like going OTB the whole time, and actually did once.
    It was weird because mine would usually stick at the 160 setting.
    On that trip, it would sag all the way down to 100.
    I would get off the bike and it would lift up to 160.
    Then reweight the bike and slowly sag to 100.
    I didn't realise it was happening until about half way through the ride, but was wondering why I felt so sketched out prior to that.
    I hope the system has been simplified with the newer forks being as they only have 2 settings now.

    BTW, I service my bath oil every couple months or so.
    Probably due for a damper service as well, but all feels good.
    Yes, the TALAS cart does seem to cause alot of people problems, including myself. As a result, I'm also thinking about going FLOAT on my next fork (I actually don't use the travel adjust much anymore anyways).

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Freerider View Post
    Yes, the TALAS cart does seem to cause alot of people problems, including myself. As a result, I'm also thinking about going FLOAT on my next fork (I actually don't use the travel adjust much anymore anyways).
    I have a 2010 Manitou Minute 140 with the Absolute damping that will go on while the 36 is in for servicing.

    At 140mm travel I can ride most of what I normally ride. Use a little more body english on the steep climbs and get back a little further on the steeps. Despite having only low speed compression adjustment, the Minute damping works very well.

    Unfortunately Manitou's 32mm stanchions are pushed on their 160mm Nixon line (not produced any longer). If Manitou continues with it's re-introduction of products and creates a proper 130 - 160 travel adjust air fork with their TPC+ (now called Absolute+) damping, i would be in line to get one. The high speed compression right out of the box plain and simple works as well or better than my Talas 36. Fox better take note, as the new Manitou line (right now only XC/Trail) you can even get the tuning kit to further tune the damper.

    As much as I like the Fox Talas I have, it is temperamental, and requires far more maintenance to keep it working well. The new Talas with 160/120 does not work for me with my bike setup. The 160mm travel setting would only get used for steep technical descents, and the 120mm setting is too low for anything but climbing, as even at 130mm tend to have more pedal strikes then I would like. If only the Talas would work as it should.

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Freerider View Post
    Yes, I believe air can escape from one "chamber" within the TALAS cart to another, most likely because one of the little tiny o-rings I previously mentioned needs to be replaced (as I had to do). You can pull it apart to look for a damaged o-ring, and replace as necessary with the TALAS cart rebuild kit. There are instructions on how to do so in the Fox website service section, as well as exploded diagrams of all of the parts. However, word of warning, it's a fairly complex assembly, and is not a simple job to disassemble/reassemble.

    Also, why are you running so much pressure (120 PSI)? That seems really high. I run mine about 60 PSI, and I'm 200 lbs (I'm on a 2009 36 TALAS).
    I will try do it on my self and look how far i will come with that. If I run into problems, then I have this nice forum and in the worst case the service center of fox.

    I'm 220 lbs and I ride previously with 100 psi and get a SAG of 25-30%. But some times I have the feeling, that it is too soft, so I put 20psi extra and then it was nice
    Maybe it is also a question of capacity of air, which can be put to the fork (the 36 should need less pressure then the 32 - like a 2,4 tire need less pressure then a 2,2 - maybe )

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by slackfreak View Post
    I will try do it on my self and look how far i will come with that. If I run into problems, then I have this nice forum and in the worst case the service center of fox.

    I'm 220 lbs and I ride previously with 100 psi and get a SAG of 25-30%. But some times I have the feeling, that it is too soft, so I put 20psi extra and then it was nice
    Maybe it is also a question of capacity of air, which can be put to the fork (the 36 should need less pressure then the 32 - like a 2,4 tire need less pressure then a 2,2 - maybe )
    Right, I forgot you were on a 32, not a 36. I've never owned a 32, so I'm unsure of the required pressures in the air spring.

  45. #45
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    P.S. I can't post links, because I don't have enough posts in this forum (must have at least 10), so my explantations are not graphically

    Please search at google for
    Code:
    "TALAS 140 Topcap Assembly Diagram: 820-05-089-KIT (1)"
    Now I have disassembled a part of the Talas system. I followed step by step the manual of fox and get:

    1) The part which is called "See sheet 4" and the part called "See sheet 3" are not together, as it should be (if I understand the service manual of fox correct and how it looks like on the first image in this post).

    2) "See sheet 3" for sticked a little in the "TALAS III Lower Air Shaft", but it could be unlink with out problems.

    3) In the "See sheet 3" i can see the correct colors (red, brass, blue)

    Now I hope that it would be enough when I put the "See sheet 3" and "See sheet 4" together as it should be. (I just need to find the 16mm open-end wrench )

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Freerider View Post
    Yes, the TALAS cart does seem to cause alot of people problems, including myself. As a result, I'm also thinking about going FLOAT on my next fork (I actually don't use the travel adjust much anymore anyways).
    You can convert your Talas to a Float for about $80 in parts.

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by bad mechanic View Post
    You can convert your Talas to a Float for about $80 in parts.
    Yes, I know it can be done, but probably a little more than $80 up here in Canada. I'm however looking into getting a new fork anyways, and am considering the Float instead of Talas.

  48. #48
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    Oooooh, yeah, Canada. That always screws things up.

  49. #49
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    As far as Fox pricing goes, yeah, for sure.

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    Now I assembled the "See sheet 3" with "See sheet 4", but now I can not see the "brass color" trough the middle set of for colors. I can just see completely trough the holes the rest of my living room. But I can see the red and the blue.
    Is this Ok or do I have to turn around with "234-04-084 Inner Tube valve Nut"?

    Since you, Freerider, have already disassembled the "TALAS 140 Topcap Assembly Diagram: 820-05-089-KIT (3)":
    What parts of this diagram make the colors? The o-rings?

  51. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by slackfreak View Post
    Now I assembled the "See sheet 3" with "See sheet 4", but now I can not see the "brass color" trough the middle set of for colors. I can just see completely trough the holes the rest of my living room. But I can see the red and the blue.
    Is this Ok or do I have to turn around with "234-04-084 Inner Tube valve Nut"?

    Since you, Freerider, have already disassembled the "TALAS 140 Topcap Assembly Diagram: 820-05-089-KIT (3)":
    What parts of this diagram make the colors? The o-rings?
    No, it's not the o-rings that make the colors. If I remember correctly, there are little pieces within the inner tubes that make the colors.

  52. #52
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    Now I am back with a working fork

    I have to do a second repair-run to get the fork working. In The first run I only assembled the "See sheet 3" and "See sheet 4" together, assembled the whole fork together and tried i out. The results are, that he Talas systems seams to work, but the fork still compress to easy and do not uncompress as usually.

    In the second run I disassembled the "inner tube" too. See attached image. And now it was clear, that one of the O-rings are broken, the first in the pipeline (right side in the image). The repair kit from FOX (Art.Nr.: 13-803-00-090), which in Germany would cost around 30 EUR. But before I spend this money I tried to put the broken o-ring completely to the left and it works the first ride was fine
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Attention Fox TALAS Experts - Help Please!-bild3.jpg  

    Attached Images Attached Images  

  53. #53
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    Great news! Can you give us some details on how did you disassemble and reassemble the tube in your pic?

    Thanks.

  54. #54
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    BTW, didn't really read through the whole thread, but I currently own and ride a 2012 talas with float lowers, so I am pretty sure you can swap lowers.

  55. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckb77 View Post
    BTW, didn't really read through the whole thread, but I currently own and ride a 2012 talas with float lowers, so I am pretty sure you can swap lowers.
    Yes, Float and Talas are completely interchangeable. The problem is when trying to switch from Van to Float or Talas.

  56. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Corvette View Post
    Great news! Can you give us some details on how did you disassemble and reassemble the tube in your pic?

    Thanks.
    First: sorry for the late answer.

    Look at this diagram: "TALAS 140 Topcap Assembly Diagram: 820-05-089-KIT (3)"

    1. Remove the "Screw 6-32 HOLLOW" (018-01-027)
    2. Remove the "Tapered Spring" (039-00-098) (just shake carefully the hole inner tube a little and the spring will come slowly up)
    3. Now you can carefully remove the Ball (010-01-004-A) again with shaking the inner tube.
    4. After that you need some thinner tube to press the whole stuff which is still in the inner tube. I used this thin plastic tubes which are delivered with some spray cans. Maybe you would need a couple of this plastic tubes.
    5. Now you put this plastic tubes from the side, where the "ball" was and press the colored tubes and the o-rings from this inner tube.

    then you finished with the disassembly.

    For assembling this stuff you go reversed, that mean that you begin with the o-ring (029-03-003) etc. and always do not forget to put some oil on all parts.

  57. #57
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    Very nice job slackfreak! bravo!!

    Do you know how tight should the screw 6-32 hollow needs to be tighten? I believe not too much because it will remove everything from it's place, but how tight?? Thank you a lot!

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    This screw have a drop of lock tide - if I remember it correctly - and I tighten it only so tight, that the screw is plane to the main tube (this was the position of the screw before disassembly - again, if I remember it correctly ). All screws in the complete assemble procedure I tighten by touch.

  59. #59
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    Again, thanks for great & useful info. Operation Talas overhaul successful, fork working flawlessly again.

    For removing the small o-rings and the red stuff (I have 36 series fork) I've used plastic tubes from spray cans and on the 2nd time the spoke. Care is advised not to scratch the inside of the tube but otherwise it's easier.

    For assembling I've simply put the thick o-ring back into the tube. All other parts go on a Talas adjustment mechanism with long needle and spline gear (this one). From that on it was easy to put all everything back inside.

  60. #60
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    Thank you slackfreak and all for the info.
    I did assembled talas mechanism more than 4 times very carefully and with different small corrections- positions-variations of the gold center ring in the middle hole, always having red colour at the outer two holes. My problem still exists. I am having 100mm-115mm-155mm and only if i go from 155mm to the middle setting i get 130mm. So my talas 36 2009 100mm-160mm fork appears to have 4 settings rather than 3!!! Does anybody know how can I fix this??
    Also, does somebody know how can I get full travel of the fork?? A friend of mine has the same fork and he can get about 165mm fully extended. I know that fox mentions +/-5mm at full travel (160mm) but if all the components are identical, why can't I have 165mm?? I tried putting 1 and 2cc less fox fluid in the negative chamber at the talas side but didn't see much difference. Has anyone tried to remove the blue rubber thing in the talas lower shaft (that protects talas lower's shaft piston when the fork is fully extended) or slice it in half to get full travel?
    Thank you, and please excuse my poor English.

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    Quote Originally Posted by abalerno View Post
    Has anyone tried to remove the blue rubber thing in the talas lower shaft (that protects talas lower's shaft piston when the fork is fully extended) or slice it in half to get full travel?
    I did that to a TALAS I 130mm fork here which did produce a little bit more travel, but came to realise it's the actual holes in the TALAS adjuster rod mechanism that determine the extension limits of the fork, so I think if you truly wanted to extend the fork, you'd need to alter the position of the TALAS adjuster rod air holes (at which moment they open/close the air circuit). If you think about it, it's the same as what happens when you dial a short travel, where the fork resists extending any further than what you set (as it's the air pressure balance between the positive and negative chambers that determine position).

    * Not an expert, but I think this should be about the same principle for the TALAS II.

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    Firstly Hello all first post here
    just had to say thanks to a well documented post.
    I certanly would not of attempted this on my own.
    after loosing the tallas function decided to give it a go, couldent find any thing wrong with the O ring's
    but a lot more oil than the 5ml.
    a different fork all together now.

  63. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by EmanResu View Post
    I did that to a TALAS I 130mm fork here which did produce a little bit more travel, but came to realise it's the actual holes in the TALAS adjuster rod mechanism that determine the extension limits of the fork, so I think if you truly wanted to extend the fork, you'd need to alter the position of the TALAS adjuster rod air holes (at which moment they open/close the air circuit). If you think about it, it's the same as what happens when you dial a short travel, where the fork resists extending any further than what you set (as it's the air pressure balance between the positive and negative chambers that determine position).

    * Not an expert, but I think this should be about the same principle for the TALAS II.
    Thanxs Emanresu just saw your reply.
    Actually all the above, are talking about Talas III system that is completely different from talas II & I.But you might have a point. I will try to reposition the talas adjuster with a small spacer 1-2mm in the top cap.
    By the way, I am about to rebuild a friend's fork Talas I 130mm and I can't find the service manual. Could you send me a link or any documents you have about that?
    Does it needs IFP tool to charge main chamber like talas II? Is there a tip about the position of the talas adjusting knob ? I would be very appreciated If you could help on this!

  64. #64
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    I think you'd have to figure the TALAS system to determine which way you'd need to go to produce more travel. It could be that the adjuster rod needs to go deeper to do this (as is the case with TALAS I). Personally I'm unfamiliar with the II/III versions at all though to be able to say with confidence

    You do need an 'IFP tool' to inflate the TALAS I IFP chamber, but it should be possible to use a common football needle valve to do it, though may require two people (one to hold it in place while the other pumps).

    There's no positioning to be concerned with with the TALAS I knob, it's a simple throw-on-and-bolt-down affair.

    The only info I have here is for oil volumes. Personally I've always ignored the '10cc' for left-leg lower and put 20cc in instead without problem. There's probably a guide out there for working on the fork somewhere, though it's all pretty straight forward stuff imo. Shout if you need anything.

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    Quote Originally Posted by EmanResu View Post
    I think you'd have to figure the TALAS system to determine which way you'd need to go to produce more travel. It could be that the adjuster rod needs to go deeper to do this (as is the case with TALAS I). Personally I'm unfamiliar with the II/III versions at all though to be able to say with confidence

    You do need an 'IFP tool' to inflate the TALAS I IFP chamber, but it should be possible to use a common football needle valve to do it, though may require two people (one to hold it in place while the other pumps).

    There's no positioning to be concerned with with the TALAS I knob, it's a simple throw-on-and-bolt-down affair.

    The only info I have here is for oil volumes. Personally I've always ignored the '10cc' for left-leg lower and put 20cc in instead without problem. There's probably a guide out there for working on the fork somewhere, though it's all pretty straight forward stuff imo. Shout if you need anything.
    Thanks Emanresu I will give it a try to rebuit it!!

  66. #66
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    I just converted Talas to Float.

    Me and my girlfriend have new 2011 36 Talas forks, and after only a few months use they both got really harsh with lots of stiction, and zero small bump compliance. Plus both of them made this really annoying "CHIRP" every time you hit a square edge bump.

    So I put in a Float air spring instead. Now the fork is like butter, and the "Chirp" is gone. Fork is waaaaayyyy smoother and feels like it has more travel.

  67. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by twowheelsdown2002 View Post
    Me and my girlfriend have new 2011 36 Talas forks, and after only a few months use they both got really harsh with lots of stiction, and zero small bump compliance. Plus both of them made this really annoying "CHIRP" every time you hit a square edge bump.

    So I put in a Float air spring instead. Now the fork is like butter, and the "Chirp" is gone. Fork is waaaaayyyy smoother and feels like it has more travel.
    The chirp is due to low lube oil (the stuff that splashes around to lube the bushings). And, for some reason, Fox seems to be hit or miss on filling the forks with the correct amount of lube oil at the factory.

    So, switching to a Float spring didn't solve the issue, it was most likely rebuilding it with the proper amount of oil that solved the chirping issue...based on my prior experience.

    I posted in this thread in April of 2010 with issues of my '10 36 TALAS not working correctly. As an update, I took it apart, reassembled carefully per the instructions, which helped, but didn't solve the issue. Since it was under warranty, I called Fox, and they were able to do a fast turn around rebuild and I sent it to them. When I got it back, they said some part in the TALAS cartridge was broken, but after the rebuild, the whole fork felt great, and I've never had another issue with the travel adjust. Just periodic dust seal/lube oil replacement, and it's been awesome.

    In summary, it was a bit of a pain at the beginning, but once solved, the fork has been trouble free, and I use the travel adjust feature every time I ride.

  68. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtg7aa View Post
    The chirp is due to low lube oil (the stuff that splashes around to lube the bushings). And, for some reason, Fox seems to be hit or miss on filling the forks with the correct amount of lube oil at the factory.

    So, switching to a Float spring didn't solve the issue, it was most likely rebuilding it with the proper amount of oil that solved the chirping issue...based on my prior experience.

    :
    Nope, the chirp was not due to low lube oil.

    I took off the lowers, and cleaned and lubed the dust wipers, and refilled the lowers with the proper amount of lube. Went out riding and hit a sharp bump. "Chirp"

    Junked the Talas crap out of the left leg, and put in a Float spring kit, and it is like a whole different fork. It even sags when you sit on it.Before it was so inconsistent in how much it sagged because there was so much friction and stiction in it. Now the fork feels really responsive and plush, and no annoying "CHIRP".

    For me, I don't think it is worth the huge difference in performance to have the Talas feature. I rode for years without it, and did fine. I also do notice the "mysterious" trait of the bike feeling "draggy" with the fork lowered, and so does Sharon, so we hesitated to go to the lower setting because of this. I'd rather have a better performing fork for the 90% of the time that I am not using it in lowered mode. The difference is dramatic.

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    Just one more picture that shows the fork disassembled:
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Attention Fox TALAS Experts - Help Please!-dsc00618.jpg  


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    Hello I am Spanish and maybe not very clear my translation, my question is if anyone has a logging level of the entire mechanism. This I ask, why not be where they go, a ball with a spring that I spare. Thanks for your coloaboracion, Hi.

  71. #71
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    Hello, I have a huge problem, I'm changing all my fork seals logging II and the amount I have a question about where are little balls with spring is that they are different in diameter and docks are also different. Search for a map or photo with the cutting of the talas II to see if any of you have something like and you can have fun, many thanks in advance, are a few cracks.




    one of the balls with its dock and is where it goes, it's the end of the needle biopsy as part of the logging system, as seen in the plane that I add. The other ball with your dock (not the command of regulation of fellings) is still not where it goes.

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    Hi...this is great information. I am having similar problems with my TALAS 36. However I have the TALAS II not the III and I can't seem to find the assembly drawing for the TALAS 36 RC2 II. I have taken the internal assembly apart and replaced the small seals inside...but I can't put it back together. The talas III assembly is completely different than the talas II. I was wondering if anyone had any idea were i can get information for (Assembly diagram) for the TALAS II series?
    Thanks

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    Talas 36 II

    I came accross the fox sevice site...but it does not show how to re-assemble the TALAS Top cap assembly with all of the internal seals inside the shaft. This is the wher ethe IFP valve is.
    Thanks again.

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    Not sure if this is it or not:


    If it is, and you need more I looked under 2010-2012 Parts Catalog > 2010 Fork Parts > 2010 36 mm Forks > 36 TALAS R, RC2 > Diagrams > 36 TALAS 160 Topcap Assembly Diagram

    Then again you may have found all of this and it's still not what you need. The other option is to call the FOX customer service. I've called them in the past to ask specific questions, and found them very helpful. It's worth a shot. Good luck man.

  76. #76
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    thanks, chuckb77,°°°° This plane is what you asked for, finally!!!! MUCHAS GRACIAS
    .I had already mounted the mechanism so that puts the plane, but thanks to you, I confirmed that this is all right, thank you friend, goodbye.

  77. #77
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    Sweet, glad I could help, enjoy the rebuilt fork!

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    thanks chuck...i followed the fox service path on your previous post...and found what I needed (not exactly but used the diagram for the 32mm talas II) I also talked with a fox service tech and I think I can make it work. Will try to rebuild it over the weekend. Hopefully it will work..Thanks again..

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    Great info. subscribe

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    Thanks a lot for this tutorial. Just serviced my whole Talas III unit because mine didn't adjust as it should (got 160-145-130 instead of 160-130-100). Appearantly all my o-rings were in good condition. I noticed a lot of oil coming out of the talas leg and Talas system (about 50cc's) which caused (I pressume) the Talas function not working properly. (I rode with 40Psi and I'm a 185 Lbs bloke). Now I have about the right pressure (60Psi) and the full 160mm's of travel. Before I had 'only' 150.
    Thank's a lot, cheers

  81. #81
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    If anyone is still out there watching this thread, perhaps you can help!

    I have a set of 2010 36 TALAS RC2 that I bought cheaply. The travel adjust does not really work at all (it adjusts in about 10mm when on 100 setting). I've bought the TALAS II seal kit so am going to attempt the repairs detailed in this thread to check all the o-rings etc. The main thing I'm not sure of is the 5 ml of Float Fluid that is mentioned a couple of times (ie. page 1 post no. 13/14). Where exactly does this go? actually in the tube with all the o-rings? When is best to add it - does it migrate past the o-rings once they are installed? If some one could explain how is best to lubricate all the bits that go beyond the take-down that Fox details that would be much appreciated.

    Actually one other question: I have never actually used a pair of TALAS forks (and mine don't see to work right!) so I don't really know how they are meant to work - if you turn the adjust dial should the travel reduce on one pump of the forks or do they need pumping a few times?

    Thanks,

    Tim

  82. #82
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    The Fox service site has all of the details for servicing the TALAS system. Be patient, watch for small springs and balls and follow the directions carefully.

    Click the lever, push down. It should stay down.

    mk
    TrailWerks Cyclery
    TrailWerks Suspension Service

    trailwerkssuspension.com
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  83. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by trailbildr View Post
    The Fox service site has all of the details for servicing the TALAS system. Be patient, watch for small springs and balls and follow the directions carefully.

    Click the lever, push down. It should stay down.

    mk
    Thanks for the help but previous posters in this thread have gone beyond the stage you get to in the TALAS service that Fox recommend. In order to remedy their travel adjust problems they have had to strip down the tube containing all the o-rings and valves (the tube with the inspection windows; 36 TALAS 160 Topcap Assembly: 820-05-052-KIT (3) )

    For what it's worth I had a go yesterday and was partially successful having gone from 160-160-150 to now 160-150-120! I didn't actually strip the tube down containing the o-rings as I had the correct colours showing in the inspection ports and also I couldn't find anything to poke everything out with as the tube-off-a-spray-can I had put aside turned out to be too fat.

    I'm still stumped by the instructions earlier in the thread to fill the o-ring tube with 5 ml of float fluid as when I tried the oil just pours out of the hollow set screw at the end (and inspection ports)!?!

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    This is a fantastic informative thread, but for some reason, I'm not able to see any of the images / thumbnails that people are attaching. Any idea how I can see them? Have they been removed?

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    Quote Originally Posted by johnnyo5 View Post
    This is a fantastic informative thread, but for some reason, I'm not able to see any of the images / thumbnails that people are attaching. Any idea how I can see them? Have they been removed?
    They were there until a week or two ago. Around that time on one occasion when I tried to view the thread I got a message about scheduled forum maintenance or something and I think that coincided with them disappearing.

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    That's a shame. Thanks for letting me know.

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    I have some issues with TALAS adjustment in my fork. The problem seems to be connected with proper position of seals and red/brass/blue tubes. Even though I can see all colors through holes there is something wrong. When i change the travel from 120 to 140 there is about 12-15 mm change but if I go down to 100, then change it to 120 (pump few times so to be sure the fork gain its travel) and then go to 140 then the change is about 18-20mm.

    1) What I'm interested in is the brass part. It seems to have holes and in certain position the holes in talas rod (used to inspect colors) and the holes in brass part can be inline and you can't see brass color! Does it mean the brass part should be a bit lower or a bit higher so the holes do not be inline? I found thet even slight change of the parts position inside the rod can have significant meaning to how entire system behaves.

    2) The small spring (at the and of the rod) is another story. Does anyone knows what would change if I screw it harder (deeper into the rod)?

  88. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudia.pl View Post
    I have some issues with TALAS adjustment in my fork. The problem seems to be connected with proper position of seals and red/brass/blue tubes. Even though I can see all colors through holes there is something wrong. When i change the travel from 120 to 140 there is about 12-15 mm change but if I go down to 100, then change it to 120 (pump few times so to be sure the fork gain its travel) and then go to 140 then the change is about 18-20mm.

    1) What I'm interested in is the brass part. It seems to have holes and in certain position the holes in talas rod (used to inspect colors) and the holes in brass part can be inline and you can't see brass color! Does it mean the brass part should be a bit lower or a bit higher so the holes do not be inline? I found thet even slight change of the parts position inside the rod can have significant meaning to how entire system behaves.

    2) The small spring (at the and of the rod) is another story. Does anyone knows what would change if I screw it harder (deeper into the rod)?
    Hello there!
    1) I believe that it does not make any difference if you see the brass ring holes or the brass color in the middle hole. Unless you do not see the black o-rings it should work fine.
    2) The small spring works as to tension all things in their place so that they do not move when you change the travel. try to harder it a bit. Not too much!
    Also change all the small o-rings inside and better change the complete tallas o-ring. I think that your problem will be fixed!

  89. #89
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    I read with pleasure reviewing Talas, I have the same problem, the Talas is extended to 160 mm
    I bought the used fork, the previous owner had informed me of this defect, I have dismantled after reading your precious post, however, I found that the Talas had been tampered with, misses the ball, I do not know the correct diameter I think 2 mm? the last red tube with 4 holes that comes into contact with the ball as it goes oriented? I hope I explained with my poor english language, I thank you for the answer you give me
    Luciano

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