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  1. #1
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    Attention Fox TALAS Experts - Help Please!

    Hello. I have a 2009 Fox 36 TALAS RC2, with the TALAS III system, and unfortunately the TALAS travel adjustment is no longer working properly, I'm hoping someone can help me out. Also, let me just apologize in advance for the long winded post. First of all, some background info. I had both an '09 VAN RC2 and an '09 TALAS RC2. I love the travel adjustments on the TALAS, but wanted the black lowers of the VAN, so I replaced the coil spring assembly in the VAN with the TALAS air cartridge. The conversion went smoothly and the fork has been functioning great for the last few months, until recently. On a recent ride, the fork became stuck down in the 130mm setting, and would not extend back out to the 160mm setting. So, I pulled the TALAS air cartridge out, and took it apart to try and figure out what the problem was.

    Here's a picture of the TALAS III assembly, disassembled:


    In the Fox service manuals, it says that in the travel adjustment ports in the side of the outer tube you should be able to see red through the 2 outer sets of 2 port holes, and a brass color through the middle set of 4 port holes. And this was the case a few months ago when I did the VAN to TALAS conversion. Upon pulling it apart this time however, I noticed that I could see red through 1 outer set of port holes (left arrow in the picture below), I could sort of see a brass color in the middle set of port holes (middle arrow below), and I could not see any color, just black, through the other set of outer port holes (right arrow below). Now, the service manual says that you should see those colors through the port holes, but doesn't say what to do if you don't see those colors. Obviously, there's a problem.


    So, I proceeded to take the TALAS upper assembly apart, to see if I could figure out the problem. Here's a picture of the TALAS upper assembly, disassembled:


    When I removed the outer tube from the rest of the upper assembly, I noticed another possible problem. There's a rod inside the outer tube that came sliding out. The Fox service manuals make no mention at all of this little rod, which leads me to believe that it's not supposed to come sliding out like that (if it were supposed to, then I'm convinced the service manuals would've made mention of it). Could the outer tube internals be broken somehow? Is this rod supposed to be attached in there? The arrow in the picture below shows the rod I'm referring to, partially out of the outer tube:


    And, here's a picture of the rod, completely removed from the outer tube:


    So, does anyone have any ideas as to what the problem might be? How come I'm not seeing the colors I'm supposed to through some of the port holes in the outer tube of the upper assembly, and how do I fix it so that I do? And what is that rod? Should it be attached inside the outer tube, and not come sliding out like that?

    Also, something that may be important to note is that I put it all back together again with fresh oil and FLOAT fluid, even though I know something's wrong, just to see what would happen. As expected, the TALAS travel adjustment was still not working properly. So, upon pulling it apart once again I noticed that everything was covered in black oil, not the clean oil and fluid I had put in it when I reassembled it. This may just be due to me not cleaning out the inside of the lower/stanchion prior to reassembling, but thought it was worth mentioning anyways.

    So, anyone have any advice for me? Any advice would be very much appreciated. Thanks.

  2. #2
    MattSavage
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    Can't help you with the internals... But I'm curious why you didn't just swap lowers?
    "I wrote a hit play! What have you ever done?!"

    Have Ashtray, Will Travel....

  3. #3
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    Because I wanted to keep the black crown from the VAN to match the black lowers, instead of the gray TALAS crown that matches the gray TALAS lowers.

  4. #4
    MattSavage
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    Ooooh... makes sense.
    "I wrote a hit play! What have you ever done?!"

    Have Ashtray, Will Travel....

  5. #5
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    I hear you on the color thing.... I was shoping for something other than the Talas until they brought black back for 2011.

    I did hear that the lowers on talas are different then VAN in that they machine the inside to a more clear finish... I just assumed that was for fitment or travel settings, but perhaps that caused an issue for you?

  6. #6
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    Interesting. That's the first I've heard of that, VAN & TALAS lowers being different. Before doing the conversion, I asked around and the consensus was that the lowers are exactly the same. Can anyone confirm this?

    However, after I did the conversion, everything was working great for a few months (3-4 days a week of use), so I'm not sure what would've suddenly caused the problem.

  7. #7
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    Fox told me last year that you couldn't swap Van lowers for Talas or Float lowers because the Van lowers are not anodized on the inside in order to keep them airtight. Since Van forks are not air forks they don't need as much treatment on the inside surface of the lowers to operate efficiently. But apparently Fox heard about this from enough folks that now all of their 2011 Talas forks are black.

  8. #8
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    Ok, so it's true. Talked to Fox tech support. You can't go from a VAN to a TALAS, but you can go from a TALAS to a VAN. Inside of spring side stanchion is different. I've already switched mine back. Good thing I didn't ride the VAN in the TALAS body.

    Still doesn't explain the problem with my TALAS cart. Still need to get that fixed. Any ideas?

  9. #9
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    Bump... No TALAS experts? I thought for sure someone on here would know what the problem is.

  10. #10
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    you shoulde'nt dissamble the all thing

    you just have to close the 1.5 hex bolt in the bottom of the talas top cart until the brass thing can be seen throu the midlle hole.

    sorry for my sppeling

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nevegal
    Fox told me last year that you couldn't swap Van lowers for Talas or Float lowers because the Van lowers are not anodized on the inside in order to keep them airtight. Since Van forks are not air forks they don't need as much treatment on the inside surface of the lowers to operate efficiently. But apparently Fox heard about this from enough folks that now all of their 2011 Talas forks are black.
    Rubbish,
    The Floats and the TALAS systems are a closed system. (The lowers are not designed to hold any air, just oil). You are able to drop the lowers to do a seal/oil service without worrying about discharging the fork (unless there is a leak).

    I don't see why, for example, a 36R float lower will not work with say a 36 Van R - same foot nuts, and bushing diameter, and length - never done it though

  12. #12
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    I don't know what is causing your issue, but their are more parts inside that tube. There are short colored sleeves separated by tiny o-rings. One of those o-rings might be bad allowing air to go somewhere it shouldn't.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by assaf_angel
    you just have to close the 1.5 hex bolt in the bottom of the talas top cart until the brass thing can be seen throu the midlle hole.
    Thanks, I didn't even know that adjustment was there. I tried tightening that little bolt (and loosening) to see what would happen. I can now see red through both sets of outer port holes, but I can no longer see the brass color through the middle port holes. Weird! Something is obviously wrong in there.


    Quote Originally Posted by cort
    Rubbish,
    The Floats and the TALAS systems are a closed system. (The lowers are not designed to hold any air, just oil). You are able to drop the lowers to do a seal/oil service without worrying about discharging the fork (unless there is a leak).

    I don't see why, for example, a 36R float lower will not work with say a 36 Van R - same foot nuts, and bushing diameter, and length - never done it though
    That's what I thought too. But I did get confirmation from Fox tech support that you cannot go from a VAN to a TALAS/FLOAT, however you can go from a TALAS/FLOAT to a VAN. When I was switching them back I had a look inside the lowers & stanchions on each fork. The lowers do look the same inside, however the inside of the spring side stanchion is different. There seems to be a different material coating the inside of the stanchion on the VAN, not sure what it is, but the 2 are definitely different. Something I didn't notice when I did the original conversion.


    Quote Originally Posted by Raja
    I don't know what is causing your issue, but their are more parts inside that tube. There are short colored sleeves separated by tiny o-rings. One of those o-rings might be bad allowing air to go somewhere it shouldn't.
    This is likely what the issue is. Problem is however, I have no idea how to take the tube apart to check it out. No mention is made of this in the Fox service manuals. Have you done this before? I can remove the little bolt that assaf_angel was referring to above, and a little tiny spring that sits behind the bolt comes out with it, however I'm unsure of how to proceed with the disassembly after that. Anyone have any experience with this?

    Thanks for all the help everyone, I appreciate it.

  14. #14
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    Where did you find the Fox service manual for the TALAS system? My 2010 36 TALAS is misbehaving; the travel adjust feature isn't working anymore, it's always at 160mm of travel now. And, btw, to the OP, I think that's the TALAS II, not III.

    (before some smarta$$ says "check the Fox website, duh", I already did, and all they have is an owner's manual for the 2010 TALAS III)

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtg7aa
    Where did you find the Fox service manual for the TALAS system?
    It can be found in the Tech Center section on the Fox website: http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/index.htm


    Quote Originally Posted by mtg7aa
    And, btw, to the OP, I think that's the TALAS II, not III.
    No, it's the TALAS III, I'm sure of it (it's a MY 2009 fork). What makes you think it's a TALAS II?

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Freerider
    It can be found in the Tech Center section on the Fox website: http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/index.htm




    No, it's the TALAS III, I'm sure of it (it's a MY 2009 fork). What makes you think it's a TALAS II?

    Thanks for the link, I knew Fox had service info, but couldn't find it.
    I think I was wrong about the TALAS II comment, I thought that because my MY10 TALAS has a different adjuster cap, and I thought that's how you could tell the difference between them, but looking at the service manual makes me think for MY10 they just changed the top cap, and the internals have been TALAS III since before MY10. In the service manual, TALAS II looks completely different. Sorry about that...

  17. #17
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    it's very hard to fix ones you crack the thing apart

    Quote Originally Posted by Freerider
    Thanks, I didn't even know that adjustment was there. I tried tightening that little bolt (and loosening) to see what would happen. I can now see red through both sets of outer port holes, but I can no longer see the brass color through the middle port holes. Weird! Something is obviously wrong in there.




    That's what I thought too. But I did get confirmation from Fox tech support that you cannot go from a VAN to a TALAS/FLOAT, however you can go from a TALAS/FLOAT to a VAN. When I was switching them back I had a look inside the lowers & stanchions on each fork. The lowers do look the same inside, however the inside of the spring side stanchion is different. There seems to be a different material coating the inside of the stanchion on the VAN, not sure what it is, but the 2 are definitely different. Something I didn't notice when I did the original conversion.




    This is likely what the issue is. Problem is however, I have no idea how to take the tube apart to check it out. No mention is made of this in the Fox service manuals. Have you done this before? I can remove the little bolt that assaf_angel was referring to above, and a little tiny spring that sits behind the bolt comes out with it, however I'm unsure of how to proceed with the disassembly after that. Anyone have any experience with this?

    Thanks for all the help everyone, I appreciate it.
    you have to take all the internals out side by order and then assemble it all together with all the tiny o rings and replace any worn o ring if you see one.
    the assembly is very hard .you need to put all the parts together without damage the o rings.
    then put 5 cc of oil and it should work

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by assaf_angel
    you have to take all the internals out side by order and then assemble it all together with all the tiny o rings and replace any worn o ring if you see one.
    the assembly is very hard .you need to put all the parts together without damage the o rings.
    then put 5 cc of oil and it should work
    The assembly shouldn't be too hard, as I have found the following diagram (from the Fox service site) to show the order in which everything goes back together:


    The problem is however trying to figure out how to disassemble the outer tube to get out all those internal parts so that they can be inspected for damage. The rod that came sliding out, as explained in my initial post, is "Inner Tube Valve 4" in the diagram. The rest of the inner tube valves and o-rings don't slide out the way the other one did. Any idea how to get them out of there?

    And, when you say put in 5cc of oil, do you mean pour 5cc of float fluid into the outer tube after the inner tube valves and o-rings have been put back in?

    Thanks again for the help!

  19. #19
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    I think I'm at the same point you are- it appears that one or more little o-rings inside that valve tube need replacing on mine.

  20. #20
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    Were you able to remove the inner tube valves and o-rings from the outer tube? Apparently they can just be pushed through using an old spoke or something similar. I will be doing that tonight.

  21. #21
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    I probably could have, but didn't try it since I don't have new ones yet. If you take the small hollow set screw out of the bottom (p/n 018-01-27 above), then you should be able to just push everything out the bottom. I think.

  22. #22
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    Yes, you take the 018-01-27 screw out, along with the tapered spring and ball. Then you can stick a spoke (or something similar) in there and push everything out the other end (the larger end without the insert). At least this is what I was told to do. I'll be trying it tonight, to inspect the inner tube valves and o-rings for damage.

    How do you know you need new o-rings, if you haven't looked at them yet? When you look through the port holes in the outer tube, do you see red through the 2 sets of outer holes, and brass through the inner holes?

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Freerider
    How do you know you need new o-rings, if you haven't looked at them yet? When you look through the port holes in the outer tube, do you see red through the 2 sets of outer holes, and brass through the inner holes?
    Because when I put the inner rod (the one connected to the travel adjust knob) back in, when it passed through the o-rings, it felt like they were damaged. I'm not completely sure that's the problem, but it didn't feel right. And, now, thinking about how the system works, I'm going to inspect the check ball at the bottom again- I don't remember that moving as freely as it probably should.

  24. #24
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    If your fork is a MY 2010, then it's most likely still under warranty. Why don't you just send it back to Fox to have the TALAS serviced? That way you can ensure all damaged parts are replaced and everything is working properly, free of charge.

    My fork is just out of warranty, hence why I'm doing this myself to save a few bucks, not to mention to learn how it works.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Freerider
    If your fork is a MY 2010, then it's most likely still under warranty. Why don't you just send it back to Fox to have the TALAS serviced? That way you can ensure all damaged parts are replaced and everything is working properly, free of charge.

    My fork is just out of warranty, hence why I'm doing this myself to save a few bucks, not to mention to learn how it works.
    Because my shock just got back from warranty, and it took about 3 weeks. I was OK with that since I happened to have another shock that I could use in the mean time.

    I don't have another fork, and I'm not willing to wait 3 weeks.

  26. #26
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    Ah, I understand, makes sense. I actually have a DHX air that's back at Fox for warranty, and they've had it for over a month now. Like you, I have another shock to ride, but I wouldn't be very happy if I couldn't ride this whole time. Also have the VAN fork to ride while I'm figuring out my TALAS issues, so fortunately no down time for me. I thought Fox service in the US was much faster than up here in Canada, but I guess not!

  27. #27
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    really interesting topic here, I had strange talas (36 2009) behaviour and opened the talas part.
    Did all explained here BUT the proper positioning of the 1.5hex nut.
    So my talas now perform from 100 to 120 instead of 130, no problem for 160 position.
    all ok from 160 to 130, from 130 to 100 sometimes it stops at 110.
    I think there is something with the internal o'rings or the hex nut not well positioned, I'll investigate as soon as I remove the talas to fit the VAN spring.

    I purchased an used VAN 36 160 coil spring to replace the talas system and I'm looking for a 36 VAN CAP to replace the TALAS CAP.

    I read that you can swap from TALAS to VAN, but changing what exactly?

    of course the upper CAP, the coil spring ... and then ? all I need are these parts?
    the inner shaft of the talas system is different that the van one, but this talas shaft could be ok with the VAN coil spring? does the coil usage will damage that talas shaft? Of course I would like to swap back to TALAS for long climbing epic rides.. this is the question.

    cheers from Italy! :O)

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by cybern
    really interesting topic here, I had strange talas (36 2009) behaviour and opened the talas part.
    Did all explained here BUT the proper positioning of the 1.5hex nut.
    So my talas now perform from 100 to 120 instead of 130, no problem for 160 position.
    all ok from 160 to 130, from 130 to 100 sometimes it stops at 110.
    I think there is something with the internal o'rings or the hex nut not well positioned, I'll investigate as soon as I remove the talas to fit the VAN spring.

    I purchased an used VAN 36 160 coil spring to replace the talas system and I'm looking for a 36 VAN CAP to replace the TALAS CAP.

    I read that you can swap from TALAS to VAN, but changing what exactly?

    of course the upper CAP, the coil spring ... and then ? all I need are these parts?
    the inner shaft of the talas system is different that the van one, but this talas shaft could be ok with the VAN coil spring? does the coil usage will damage that talas shaft? Of course I would like to swap back to TALAS for long climbing epic rides.. this is the question.

    cheers from Italy! :O)
    Yes you can do the swap. But please keep in mind that once you do, you will no tbe able to re-install the TALAS assembly due to the spring scratching the inner stanchion wall. For the TALAS system to function properly the inner stanchion wall MUST be smooth and free of any marks

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by cort
    Yes you can do the swap. But please keep in mind that once you do, you will no tbe able to re-install the TALAS assembly due to the spring scratching the inner stanchion wall. For the TALAS system to function properly the inner stanchion wall MUST be smooth and free of any marks
    ok thank you, this is the info I was looking for

    unfortunately this means no "talas to van" convertion

    that's life.

    cheers

  30. #30
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    Also the vans have a hydraulic bottom out circuit which the (08 and later?) TALAS forks lack, so you might find the fork would be a bit too linear and prone to bottoming out.
    Alas, that the longest hill
    Must end in a vale

    Henry Charles Beeching 1859-1919

  31. #31
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    Sorry, I'm just confusing things here. some MY of the talas do have the BO circuit, some don't, but I'm not really sure which is which
    Alas, that the longest hill
    Must end in a vale

    Henry Charles Beeching 1859-1919

  32. #32
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    @ Freerider:
    what was the result of your findings? Did you fixed it?

    I have currently the problem (32 2009):
    1) The talas is not working (always at 140mm)
    2) The fork rebound extremely slow

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by slackfreak View Post
    @ Freerider:
    what was the result of your findings? Did you fixed it?

    I have currently the problem (32 2009):
    1) The talas is not working (always at 140mm)
    2) The fork rebound extremely slow
    Yes, I was able to fix the problem. Inside the TALAS assembly outer tube, there was a little tiny o-ring with a tear in it. Once this was replaced it worked again. I ordered the TALAS assembly rebuild kit, which comes with all of the necessary o-rings. I also replaced the other o-rings for good measure. It sounds like you may be having a similar problem with your TALAS cart.

    As for the rebound issue, that doesn't sound like it would be related to the TALAS air spring. That seems like it might be a problem with your dampening cartridge in the other fork leg, as this is the cartridge that controls rebound and compression. I'm not sure, but it sounds like you might be having problems with both the air spring, and the cartridge.

  34. #34
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    Good to hear you got your fork working again. I have a 2010 Talas 160 and will be taking it in again.

    Bought the fork used, but with only a few rides on it (it could have passed for new). Road the fork for about 6-8 months and started to notice is didn't feel as smooth & responsive as before. Took it in to have the oil changed and also properly setup for me. When I got it back it felt very nice again.

    Started to ride the bike (6&6 AM bike) on more technically difficult trails and really started to like the 36 chassis in terms of the almost total lack of flex and feel of the fork. That is when the Talas stopped working. Fork was stuck at full travel, which was actually closer to 170mm, no matter which setting the Talas dial was on. Took it back in to have it fixed, shop reset the Talas mechanism and all was good again, but for a much shorter interval.

    Only got a few rides on it, primarily leaving it in the mid travel position and riding some technical XC rides on the shore. Then I did one extended ride that had a boat load of descending at had the fork at full travel for the day. Noticed at the end of the day the Talas was no longer working.

    Will be taking it back in this week for repair again. Was told that the 3 position Talas will go out of adjustment if ridden aggressively, especially if used in a lower travel setting.

    I really hope this was just a glitch as I like the stiffness of the 36 chassis and how the fork feels when it works. The other key is the Talas feature, lowest travel for short steep climbs, mid travel for tighter trails and better handling on corners, and full travel for steeper and rougher terrain.

    Can anyone else comment on this or advise on their experience in using a Talas fork for more than just trail riding. Can the Talas 36 handle light free riding and work without being serviced every 10-15 hours?

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by rideitall View Post
    Good to hear you got your fork working again. I have a 2010 Talas 160 and will be taking it in again.

    Bought the fork used, but with only a few rides on it (it could have passed for new). Road the fork for about 6-8 months and started to notice is didn't feel as smooth & responsive as before. Took it in to have the oil changed and also properly setup for me. When I got it back it felt very nice again.

    Started to ride the bike (6&6 AM bike) on more technically difficult trails and really started to like the 36 chassis in terms of the almost total lack of flex and feel of the fork. That is when the Talas stopped working. Fork was stuck at full travel, which was actually closer to 170mm, no matter which setting the Talas dial was on. Took it back in to have it fixed, shop reset the Talas mechanism and all was good again, but for a much shorter interval.

    Only got a few rides on it, primarily leaving it in the mid travel position and riding some technical XC rides on the shore. Then I did one extended ride that had a boat load of descending at had the fork at full travel for the day. Noticed at the end of the day the Talas was no longer working.

    Will be taking it back in this week for repair again. Was told that the 3 position Talas will go out of adjustment if ridden aggressively, especially if used in a lower travel setting.

    I really hope this was just a glitch as I like the stiffness of the 36 chassis and how the fork feels when it works. The other key is the Talas feature, lowest travel for short steep climbs, mid travel for tighter trails and better handling on corners, and full travel for steeper and rougher terrain.

    Can anyone else comment on this or advise on their experience in using a Talas fork for more than just trail riding. Can the Talas 36 handle light free riding and work without being serviced every 10-15 hours?
    I've ridden mine pretty hard, and other than the above problem with the TALAS cart, there have been no problems. I give it a basic service regularly though to keep it running smooth.

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Freerider View Post
    I've ridden mine pretty hard, and other than the above problem with the TALAS cart, there have been no problems. I give it a basic service regularly though to keep it running smooth.
    Thx for the response. What type of service are you doing and how often?

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by rideitall View Post
    Thx for the response. What type of service are you doing and how often?
    Just a basic oil change about every month or 2, depending on use (drop the lowers, drain the oil, clean out inside of lowers and stanchions, new oil). And a full rebuild of the damp cart about twice a year (it's a fully sealed unit so takes a while to become contaminated). As for the TALAS air spring assembly, I never service this. Only time I've had it apart and given it a service was when I was having the above issue. It's much more complicated to pull apart, so I avoid it!

  38. #38
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    I've had alot of problems with my 2010 talas cart.
    Sent it in 2 times under warranty.
    It seemed to go out pretty quickly each time it came back.
    After the last time about a year ago it seemed to work well for the following 6 months or so.
    But the last few months it has been hit or miss.
    Sometimes it works, sometimes not.
    I mostly only use the 160-130 setting these days.
    I've gotten pretty tired of it so I just ordered a float cart to convert it over.
    I was at downieville last year and had to do the whole ride pretty much stuck at 100mm, which really sucked.
    Felt like going OTB the whole time, and actually did once.
    It was weird because mine would usually stick at the 160 setting.
    On that trip, it would sag all the way down to 100.
    I would get off the bike and it would lift up to 160.
    Then reweight the bike and slowly sag to 100.
    I didn't realise it was happening until about half way through the ride, but was wondering why I felt so sketched out prior to that.
    I hope the system has been simplified with the newer forks being as they only have 2 settings now.

    BTW, I service my bath oil every couple months or so.
    Probably due for a damper service as well, but all feels good.
    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Freerider View Post
    Yes, I was able to fix the problem. Inside the TALAS assembly outer tube, there was a little tiny o-ring with a tear in it. Once this was replaced it worked again. I ordered the TALAS assembly rebuild kit, which comes with all of the necessary o-rings. I also replaced the other o-rings for good measure. It sounds like you may be having a similar problem with your TALAS cart.

    As for the rebound issue, that doesn't sound like it would be related to the TALAS air spring. That seems like it might be a problem with your dampening cartridge in the other fork leg, as this is the cartridge that controls rebound and compression. I'm not sure, but it sounds like you might be having problems with both the air spring, and the cartridge.
    Thank for your fast response!

    Why I think the slow rebound could be a side effect of the defect Talas:
    1) Change the rebound setting take effect, that mean that with an open rebound the fork uncompress faster as with an closed rebound.
    2) I think that the Talas now don't compress the air as it should. It easy let the air go from one part of the system to the other. (I do not know if this could be technically possible - what do you think?). For information: the fork did not lose the pressure of 120psi.

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by slackfreak View Post
    Thank for your fast response!

    Why I think the slow rebound could be a side effect of the defect Talas:
    1) Change the rebound setting take effect, that mean that with an open rebound the fork uncompress faster as with an closed rebound.
    2) I think that the Talas now don't compress the air as it should. It easy let the air go from one part of the system to the other. (I do not know if this could be technically possible - what do you think?). For information: the fork did not lose the pressure of 120psi.
    Yes, I believe air can escape from one "chamber" within the TALAS cart to another, most likely because one of the little tiny o-rings I previously mentioned needs to be replaced (as I had to do). You can pull it apart to look for a damaged o-ring, and replace as necessary with the TALAS cart rebuild kit. There are instructions on how to do so in the Fox website service section, as well as exploded diagrams of all of the parts. However, word of warning, it's a fairly complex assembly, and is not a simple job to disassemble/reassemble.

    Also, why are you running so much pressure (120 PSI)? That seems really high. I run mine about 60 PSI, and I'm 200 lbs (I'm on a 2009 36 TALAS).

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by savagemann View Post
    I've had alot of problems with my 2010 talas cart.
    Sent it in 2 times under warranty.
    It seemed to go out pretty quickly each time it came back.
    After the last time about a year ago it seemed to work well for the following 6 months or so.
    But the last few months it has been hit or miss.
    Sometimes it works, sometimes not.
    I mostly only use the 160-130 setting these days.
    I've gotten pretty tired of it so I just ordered a float cart to convert it over.
    I was at downieville last year and had to do the whole ride pretty much stuck at 100mm, which really sucked.
    Felt like going OTB the whole time, and actually did once.
    It was weird because mine would usually stick at the 160 setting.
    On that trip, it would sag all the way down to 100.
    I would get off the bike and it would lift up to 160.
    Then reweight the bike and slowly sag to 100.
    I didn't realise it was happening until about half way through the ride, but was wondering why I felt so sketched out prior to that.
    I hope the system has been simplified with the newer forks being as they only have 2 settings now.

    BTW, I service my bath oil every couple months or so.
    Probably due for a damper service as well, but all feels good.
    Yes, the TALAS cart does seem to cause alot of people problems, including myself. As a result, I'm also thinking about going FLOAT on my next fork (I actually don't use the travel adjust much anymore anyways).

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Freerider View Post
    Yes, the TALAS cart does seem to cause alot of people problems, including myself. As a result, I'm also thinking about going FLOAT on my next fork (I actually don't use the travel adjust much anymore anyways).
    I have a 2010 Manitou Minute 140 with the Absolute damping that will go on while the 36 is in for servicing.

    At 140mm travel I can ride most of what I normally ride. Use a little more body english on the steep climbs and get back a little further on the steeps. Despite having only low speed compression adjustment, the Minute damping works very well.

    Unfortunately Manitou's 32mm stanchions are pushed on their 160mm Nixon line (not produced any longer). If Manitou continues with it's re-introduction of products and creates a proper 130 - 160 travel adjust air fork with their TPC+ (now called Absolute+) damping, i would be in line to get one. The high speed compression right out of the box plain and simple works as well or better than my Talas 36. Fox better take note, as the new Manitou line (right now only XC/Trail) you can even get the tuning kit to further tune the damper.

    As much as I like the Fox Talas I have, it is temperamental, and requires far more maintenance to keep it working well. The new Talas with 160/120 does not work for me with my bike setup. The 160mm travel setting would only get used for steep technical descents, and the 120mm setting is too low for anything but climbing, as even at 130mm tend to have more pedal strikes then I would like. If only the Talas would work as it should.

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Freerider View Post
    Yes, I believe air can escape from one "chamber" within the TALAS cart to another, most likely because one of the little tiny o-rings I previously mentioned needs to be replaced (as I had to do). You can pull it apart to look for a damaged o-ring, and replace as necessary with the TALAS cart rebuild kit. There are instructions on how to do so in the Fox website service section, as well as exploded diagrams of all of the parts. However, word of warning, it's a fairly complex assembly, and is not a simple job to disassemble/reassemble.

    Also, why are you running so much pressure (120 PSI)? That seems really high. I run mine about 60 PSI, and I'm 200 lbs (I'm on a 2009 36 TALAS).
    I will try do it on my self and look how far i will come with that. If I run into problems, then I have this nice forum and in the worst case the service center of fox.

    I'm 220 lbs and I ride previously with 100 psi and get a SAG of 25-30%. But some times I have the feeling, that it is too soft, so I put 20psi extra and then it was nice
    Maybe it is also a question of capacity of air, which can be put to the fork (the 36 should need less pressure then the 32 - like a 2,4 tire need less pressure then a 2,2 - maybe )

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by slackfreak View Post
    I will try do it on my self and look how far i will come with that. If I run into problems, then I have this nice forum and in the worst case the service center of fox.

    I'm 220 lbs and I ride previously with 100 psi and get a SAG of 25-30%. But some times I have the feeling, that it is too soft, so I put 20psi extra and then it was nice
    Maybe it is also a question of capacity of air, which can be put to the fork (the 36 should need less pressure then the 32 - like a 2,4 tire need less pressure then a 2,2 - maybe )
    Right, I forgot you were on a 32, not a 36. I've never owned a 32, so I'm unsure of the required pressures in the air spring.

  45. #45
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    P.S. I can't post links, because I don't have enough posts in this forum (must have at least 10), so my explantations are not graphically

    Please search at google for
    Code:
    "TALAS 140 Topcap Assembly Diagram: 820-05-089-KIT (1)"
    Now I have disassembled a part of the Talas system. I followed step by step the manual of fox and get:

    1) The part which is called "See sheet 4" and the part called "See sheet 3" are not together, as it should be (if I understand the service manual of fox correct and how it looks like on the first image in this post).

    2) "See sheet 3" for sticked a little in the "TALAS III Lower Air Shaft", but it could be unlink with out problems.

    3) In the "See sheet 3" i can see the correct colors (red, brass, blue)

    Now I hope that it would be enough when I put the "See sheet 3" and "See sheet 4" together as it should be. (I just need to find the 16mm open-end wrench )

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Freerider View Post
    Yes, the TALAS cart does seem to cause alot of people problems, including myself. As a result, I'm also thinking about going FLOAT on my next fork (I actually don't use the travel adjust much anymore anyways).
    You can convert your Talas to a Float for about $80 in parts.

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by bad mechanic View Post
    You can convert your Talas to a Float for about $80 in parts.
    Yes, I know it can be done, but probably a little more than $80 up here in Canada. I'm however looking into getting a new fork anyways, and am considering the Float instead of Talas.

  48. #48
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    Oooooh, yeah, Canada. That always screws things up.

  49. #49
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    As far as Fox pricing goes, yeah, for sure.

  50. #50
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    Now I assembled the "See sheet 3" with "See sheet 4", but now I can not see the "brass color" trough the middle set of for colors. I can just see completely trough the holes the rest of my living room. But I can see the red and the blue.
    Is this Ok or do I have to turn around with "234-04-084 Inner Tube valve Nut"?

    Since you, Freerider, have already disassembled the "TALAS 140 Topcap Assembly Diagram: 820-05-089-KIT (3)":
    What parts of this diagram make the colors? The o-rings?

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