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  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by slackfreak View Post
    Now I assembled the "See sheet 3" with "See sheet 4", but now I can not see the "brass color" trough the middle set of for colors. I can just see completely trough the holes the rest of my living room. But I can see the red and the blue.
    Is this Ok or do I have to turn around with "234-04-084 Inner Tube valve Nut"?

    Since you, Freerider, have already disassembled the "TALAS 140 Topcap Assembly Diagram: 820-05-089-KIT (3)":
    What parts of this diagram make the colors? The o-rings?
    No, it's not the o-rings that make the colors. If I remember correctly, there are little pieces within the inner tubes that make the colors.

  2. #52
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    Now I am back with a working fork

    I have to do a second repair-run to get the fork working. In The first run I only assembled the "See sheet 3" and "See sheet 4" together, assembled the whole fork together and tried i out. The results are, that he Talas systems seams to work, but the fork still compress to easy and do not uncompress as usually.

    In the second run I disassembled the "inner tube" too. See attached image. And now it was clear, that one of the O-rings are broken, the first in the pipeline (right side in the image). The repair kit from FOX (Art.Nr.: 13-803-00-090), which in Germany would cost around 30 EUR. But before I spend this money I tried to put the broken o-ring completely to the left and it works the first ride was fine
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Attention Fox TALAS Experts - Help Please!-bild3.jpg  

    Attached Images Attached Images  

  3. #53
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    Great news! Can you give us some details on how did you disassemble and reassemble the tube in your pic?

    Thanks.

  4. #54
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    BTW, didn't really read through the whole thread, but I currently own and ride a 2012 talas with float lowers, so I am pretty sure you can swap lowers.

  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckb77 View Post
    BTW, didn't really read through the whole thread, but I currently own and ride a 2012 talas with float lowers, so I am pretty sure you can swap lowers.
    Yes, Float and Talas are completely interchangeable. The problem is when trying to switch from Van to Float or Talas.

  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Corvette View Post
    Great news! Can you give us some details on how did you disassemble and reassemble the tube in your pic?

    Thanks.
    First: sorry for the late answer.

    Look at this diagram: "TALAS 140 Topcap Assembly Diagram: 820-05-089-KIT (3)"

    1. Remove the "Screw 6-32 HOLLOW" (018-01-027)
    2. Remove the "Tapered Spring" (039-00-098) (just shake carefully the hole inner tube a little and the spring will come slowly up)
    3. Now you can carefully remove the Ball (010-01-004-A) again with shaking the inner tube.
    4. After that you need some thinner tube to press the whole stuff which is still in the inner tube. I used this thin plastic tubes which are delivered with some spray cans. Maybe you would need a couple of this plastic tubes.
    5. Now you put this plastic tubes from the side, where the "ball" was and press the colored tubes and the o-rings from this inner tube.

    then you finished with the disassembly.

    For assembling this stuff you go reversed, that mean that you begin with the o-ring (029-03-003) etc. and always do not forget to put some oil on all parts.

  7. #57
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    Very nice job slackfreak! bravo!!

    Do you know how tight should the screw 6-32 hollow needs to be tighten? I believe not too much because it will remove everything from it's place, but how tight?? Thank you a lot!

  8. #58
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    This screw have a drop of lock tide - if I remember it correctly - and I tighten it only so tight, that the screw is plane to the main tube (this was the position of the screw before disassembly - again, if I remember it correctly ). All screws in the complete assemble procedure I tighten by touch.

  9. #59
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    Again, thanks for great & useful info. Operation Talas overhaul successful, fork working flawlessly again.

    For removing the small o-rings and the red stuff (I have 36 series fork) I've used plastic tubes from spray cans and on the 2nd time the spoke. Care is advised not to scratch the inside of the tube but otherwise it's easier.

    For assembling I've simply put the thick o-ring back into the tube. All other parts go on a Talas adjustment mechanism with long needle and spline gear (this one). From that on it was easy to put all everything back inside.

  10. #60
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    Thank you slackfreak and all for the info.
    I did assembled talas mechanism more than 4 times very carefully and with different small corrections- positions-variations of the gold center ring in the middle hole, always having red colour at the outer two holes. My problem still exists. I am having 100mm-115mm-155mm and only if i go from 155mm to the middle setting i get 130mm. So my talas 36 2009 100mm-160mm fork appears to have 4 settings rather than 3!!! Does anybody know how can I fix this??
    Also, does somebody know how can I get full travel of the fork?? A friend of mine has the same fork and he can get about 165mm fully extended. I know that fox mentions +/-5mm at full travel (160mm) but if all the components are identical, why can't I have 165mm?? I tried putting 1 and 2cc less fox fluid in the negative chamber at the talas side but didn't see much difference. Has anyone tried to remove the blue rubber thing in the talas lower shaft (that protects talas lower's shaft piston when the fork is fully extended) or slice it in half to get full travel?
    Thank you, and please excuse my poor English.

  11. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by abalerno View Post
    Has anyone tried to remove the blue rubber thing in the talas lower shaft (that protects talas lower's shaft piston when the fork is fully extended) or slice it in half to get full travel?
    I did that to a TALAS I 130mm fork here which did produce a little bit more travel, but came to realise it's the actual holes in the TALAS adjuster rod mechanism that determine the extension limits of the fork, so I think if you truly wanted to extend the fork, you'd need to alter the position of the TALAS adjuster rod air holes (at which moment they open/close the air circuit). If you think about it, it's the same as what happens when you dial a short travel, where the fork resists extending any further than what you set (as it's the air pressure balance between the positive and negative chambers that determine position).

    * Not an expert, but I think this should be about the same principle for the TALAS II.

  12. #62
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    Firstly Hello all first post here
    just had to say thanks to a well documented post.
    I certanly would not of attempted this on my own.
    after loosing the tallas function decided to give it a go, couldent find any thing wrong with the O ring's
    but a lot more oil than the 5ml.
    a different fork all together now.

  13. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by EmanResu View Post
    I did that to a TALAS I 130mm fork here which did produce a little bit more travel, but came to realise it's the actual holes in the TALAS adjuster rod mechanism that determine the extension limits of the fork, so I think if you truly wanted to extend the fork, you'd need to alter the position of the TALAS adjuster rod air holes (at which moment they open/close the air circuit). If you think about it, it's the same as what happens when you dial a short travel, where the fork resists extending any further than what you set (as it's the air pressure balance between the positive and negative chambers that determine position).

    * Not an expert, but I think this should be about the same principle for the TALAS II.
    Thanxs Emanresu just saw your reply.
    Actually all the above, are talking about Talas III system that is completely different from talas II & I.But you might have a point. I will try to reposition the talas adjuster with a small spacer 1-2mm in the top cap.
    By the way, I am about to rebuild a friend's fork Talas I 130mm and I can't find the service manual. Could you send me a link or any documents you have about that?
    Does it needs IFP tool to charge main chamber like talas II? Is there a tip about the position of the talas adjusting knob ? I would be very appreciated If you could help on this!

  14. #64
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    I think you'd have to figure the TALAS system to determine which way you'd need to go to produce more travel. It could be that the adjuster rod needs to go deeper to do this (as is the case with TALAS I). Personally I'm unfamiliar with the II/III versions at all though to be able to say with confidence

    You do need an 'IFP tool' to inflate the TALAS I IFP chamber, but it should be possible to use a common football needle valve to do it, though may require two people (one to hold it in place while the other pumps).

    There's no positioning to be concerned with with the TALAS I knob, it's a simple throw-on-and-bolt-down affair.

    The only info I have here is for oil volumes. Personally I've always ignored the '10cc' for left-leg lower and put 20cc in instead without problem. There's probably a guide out there for working on the fork somewhere, though it's all pretty straight forward stuff imo. Shout if you need anything.

  15. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by EmanResu View Post
    I think you'd have to figure the TALAS system to determine which way you'd need to go to produce more travel. It could be that the adjuster rod needs to go deeper to do this (as is the case with TALAS I). Personally I'm unfamiliar with the II/III versions at all though to be able to say with confidence

    You do need an 'IFP tool' to inflate the TALAS I IFP chamber, but it should be possible to use a common football needle valve to do it, though may require two people (one to hold it in place while the other pumps).

    There's no positioning to be concerned with with the TALAS I knob, it's a simple throw-on-and-bolt-down affair.

    The only info I have here is for oil volumes. Personally I've always ignored the '10cc' for left-leg lower and put 20cc in instead without problem. There's probably a guide out there for working on the fork somewhere, though it's all pretty straight forward stuff imo. Shout if you need anything.
    Thanks Emanresu I will give it a try to rebuit it!!

  16. #66
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    I just converted Talas to Float.

    Me and my girlfriend have new 2011 36 Talas forks, and after only a few months use they both got really harsh with lots of stiction, and zero small bump compliance. Plus both of them made this really annoying "CHIRP" every time you hit a square edge bump.

    So I put in a Float air spring instead. Now the fork is like butter, and the "Chirp" is gone. Fork is waaaaayyyy smoother and feels like it has more travel.

  17. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by twowheelsdown2002 View Post
    Me and my girlfriend have new 2011 36 Talas forks, and after only a few months use they both got really harsh with lots of stiction, and zero small bump compliance. Plus both of them made this really annoying "CHIRP" every time you hit a square edge bump.

    So I put in a Float air spring instead. Now the fork is like butter, and the "Chirp" is gone. Fork is waaaaayyyy smoother and feels like it has more travel.
    The chirp is due to low lube oil (the stuff that splashes around to lube the bushings). And, for some reason, Fox seems to be hit or miss on filling the forks with the correct amount of lube oil at the factory.

    So, switching to a Float spring didn't solve the issue, it was most likely rebuilding it with the proper amount of oil that solved the chirping issue...based on my prior experience.

    I posted in this thread in April of 2010 with issues of my '10 36 TALAS not working correctly. As an update, I took it apart, reassembled carefully per the instructions, which helped, but didn't solve the issue. Since it was under warranty, I called Fox, and they were able to do a fast turn around rebuild and I sent it to them. When I got it back, they said some part in the TALAS cartridge was broken, but after the rebuild, the whole fork felt great, and I've never had another issue with the travel adjust. Just periodic dust seal/lube oil replacement, and it's been awesome.

    In summary, it was a bit of a pain at the beginning, but once solved, the fork has been trouble free, and I use the travel adjust feature every time I ride.

  18. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtg7aa View Post
    The chirp is due to low lube oil (the stuff that splashes around to lube the bushings). And, for some reason, Fox seems to be hit or miss on filling the forks with the correct amount of lube oil at the factory.

    So, switching to a Float spring didn't solve the issue, it was most likely rebuilding it with the proper amount of oil that solved the chirping issue...based on my prior experience.

    :
    Nope, the chirp was not due to low lube oil.

    I took off the lowers, and cleaned and lubed the dust wipers, and refilled the lowers with the proper amount of lube. Went out riding and hit a sharp bump. "Chirp"

    Junked the Talas crap out of the left leg, and put in a Float spring kit, and it is like a whole different fork. It even sags when you sit on it.Before it was so inconsistent in how much it sagged because there was so much friction and stiction in it. Now the fork feels really responsive and plush, and no annoying "CHIRP".

    For me, I don't think it is worth the huge difference in performance to have the Talas feature. I rode for years without it, and did fine. I also do notice the "mysterious" trait of the bike feeling "draggy" with the fork lowered, and so does Sharon, so we hesitated to go to the lower setting because of this. I'd rather have a better performing fork for the 90% of the time that I am not using it in lowered mode. The difference is dramatic.

  19. #69
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    Just one more picture that shows the fork disassembled:
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Attention Fox TALAS Experts - Help Please!-dsc00618.jpg  


  20. #70
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    Hello I am Spanish and maybe not very clear my translation, my question is if anyone has a logging level of the entire mechanism. This I ask, why not be where they go, a ball with a spring that I spare. Thanks for your coloaboracion, Hi.

  21. #71
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    Hello, I have a huge problem, I'm changing all my fork seals logging II and the amount I have a question about where are little balls with spring is that they are different in diameter and docks are also different. Search for a map or photo with the cutting of the talas II to see if any of you have something like and you can have fun, many thanks in advance, are a few cracks.




    one of the balls with its dock and is where it goes, it's the end of the needle biopsy as part of the logging system, as seen in the plane that I add. The other ball with your dock (not the command of regulation of fellings) is still not where it goes.

  22. #72
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    Hi...this is great information. I am having similar problems with my TALAS 36. However I have the TALAS II not the III and I can't seem to find the assembly drawing for the TALAS 36 RC2 II. I have taken the internal assembly apart and replaced the small seals inside...but I can't put it back together. The talas III assembly is completely different than the talas II. I was wondering if anyone had any idea were i can get information for (Assembly diagram) for the TALAS II series?
    Thanks

  23. #73
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  24. #74
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    Talas 36 II

    I came accross the fox sevice site...but it does not show how to re-assemble the TALAS Top cap assembly with all of the internal seals inside the shaft. This is the wher ethe IFP valve is.
    Thanks again.

  25. #75
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    Not sure if this is it or not:


    If it is, and you need more I looked under 2010-2012 Parts Catalog > 2010 Fork Parts > 2010 36 mm Forks > 36 TALAS R, RC2 > Diagrams > 36 TALAS 160 Topcap Assembly Diagram

    Then again you may have found all of this and it's still not what you need. The other option is to call the FOX customer service. I've called them in the past to ask specific questions, and found them very helpful. It's worth a shot. Good luck man.

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