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  1. #1
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    Anyone experienced with servicing a Fox DHX 5.0? Need a little help...

    Anyone out there experienced with servicing a Fox DHX 5.0? I need to remove the propedal adjustment assembly (have seen it referred to as the boost valve) from the end of the reservoir for a little project I am working on. What do I need to do in order to remove it?
    Here's a pic of my reservoir currently:


    This is a pic of the assembly i'm trying to remove (the pic is a comparison of the stock valve compared to the compression valve PUSH installs as part of their upgrade):


    I know the actual knob comes off from an allen screw on the end. My question is, how does the rest of the valve come out? Inside of the reservoir I can see a C-clip as seen here:

    My quesiton is, does the reservoir body tube need to be unthreaded from the end cap in order to remove the propedal adjustment assembly? Or is it merely a matter of removing the C-clip? Anyone have experience removing this piece?
    In case you're wondering what i'm up to, i'm going to cut and thread the end cap so I can convert my DHX to a remote reservoir setup for clearance purposes on my frame. I want to remove the propedal assembly because i'll need to clean out any metal shavings left behind from when I cut, drill and tap the end cap for the hose.
    And yes...i'm mechanically inclined and pretty sure I can pull this off successfully. I'm a professional automotive technician with a propensity for fabrication, etc. Just need a little insight into removal of this one part of the DHX.
    Anyway, thanks in advance for any help anyone can offer.

    Alvin Caragay
    Hermosa Beach, CA

  2. #2
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    ive rebuilt my 5.0 but didnt mess with the propedal setup.. im guessing you can pull the c-clip and it all comes out thru the resy....really dont see a reason it wouldnt..... keep pics coming as ya go... would like to see what ya end up with..

  3. #3
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    Ya...I figured the same. Just thought i'd ask to be sure there wasn't something I overlooked. Don't have my C-clip plier set here at home (on paternity leave right now) so I figured i'd ask before I run over to work and grab some tools outta my box. I'll be sure to post pics as things progress...

  4. #4
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    oh and if ya do have to take the resy body off thats not a big deal either.. might be worth your time to do it anyways...... good luck with the new kid......

  5. #5
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    Well, looks like I might have to remove the reservoir tube anyway. Turns out I do have some C-clip pliers here in my tools a home, but they're not long enough to reach into the tube to the C-clip. It's probably worth the effort to remove it anyway. Would probably make it easier to do the cutting, tapping, etc. Unfortunately, I don't have a strap wrench to grab the sides of the reservoir...guess it's time to go buy one...

  6. #6
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    Good job!

    Quote Originally Posted by atchipmunk
    Unfortunately, I don't have a strap wrench to grab the sides of the reservoir...guess it's time to go buy one...
    old innertube and some channel locks ? good luck.....

  7. #7
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    you have very clean finger nails for a auto tech

    Post up pics of the finished product

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by boogenman
    you have very clean finger nails for a auto tech

    Post up pics of the finished product
    Funny that you noticed that. My wife always complains about the perma-grime under my fingernails, etc. Only reason they're clean right now is because I haven't been to work in a week...first week of my 2-week paternity leave. With the new baby and all, have been washing my hands about 100 times a day.
    Will definitely post pics of the finished product...

  9. #9
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    No turning back now...
    I took a saw to the end cap of my DHX today. Here's some pics of the aftermath:


    Need to grind the cut ends flat (if only I still had a milling machine at my disposal ), and drill and tap some 1/16" NPT threads into both pieces. The stainless braided hydraulic hose i'm using has 1/8" NPT threads on both ends and originally I was planning on drilling and tapping for 1/8" so the hose would thread directly into each piece. Unfortunately, there isn't enough meat for 1/8" NPR threads, SO...gonna drill and tap for 1/16" NPT and will use 1/16" MNPT to 1/8" FNPT adapters. Won't be as "clean", but functionally it should be perfect.
    I'll post update pics once it's all said and done...

  10. #10
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    Good job!

    now i see what the heck youre doing ......... so drill your 1/8" hole off center line up bottom of 1/8" hole with factory hole) dont see y ya couldnt ... it willl still hit the orginal hole and you wont have to do it half a$$ed....
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  11. #11
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    Thanks.
    Initially I thought there wouldn't be enough meat on that "neck" in between the reservoir and main body on the end cap. That's why I was originally planning on using the 1/16" to 1/8" NPT adapters. After I made the cut, I took some more detailed maesurements and it looks like I was wrong...at least on the shock body side of the cap. That side is big enough that I can just drill and tap it for 1/8" NPT. The problem now is the reservoir side.
    On the reservoir side I am going to still have to use the 1/16" NPT adapter because of the way the back of the reservoir piece is cut for clearance of the Propedal knob. If I drill and tap it to 1/8" NPT it'll cut into the cutout for the propedal knob. Oh well...important thing is that it works...

  12. #12
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    HI mate
    to remove the propedal valve and spring, you simple have to remove the inner circlip and the entire assembly should just pull out.
    Now if you want to remove the actual adjuster, it gets abit more technical, i believe you need a special type of hex key to remove the actual adjuster form the body.

    Here is a pic that should make it a bit clearer as to what removing the circlip does
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Anyone experienced with servicing a Fox DHX 5.0? Need a little help...-pp_1.jpg  

    Last edited by Nick_M2R; 01-23-2010 at 02:24 AM.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nick_M2R
    HI mate
    to remove the propedal valve and spring, you simple have to remove the inner circlip and the entire assembly should just pull out.
    Now if you want to remove the actual adjuster, it gets abit more technical, i believe you need a special type of hex key to remove the actual adjuster form the body.
    Thanks Nick...I actually had figured that out. I pulled the C-clip and pulled the valve and spring only to realize that there's a special Hex key needed (one that's drilled in the center to clear the center adjustment shaft). I thought about making the tool, but decided to just go ahead and make my cut and do the work and will try to flush it all out as best I can with some parts wash. If I can't clean the area well enough, then I'll worry about making the necessary tool to remove the valve completely. Thanks for the insight though.

    BTW...thanks also for your DHX rebuild guide! It's been instumental in my work thus far!

    Alvin

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    take a pic of the hex key needed..... if its what i think it is i can point ya in the right direction for the tool.......

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by qkenuf4u
    take a pic of the hex key needed..... if its what i think it is i can point ya in the right direction for the tool.......
    Here ya go...


    Center of the adjustment unit is a hex head with the adjustment shaft in the center. Needs to fit in with a cutout in the center for the shaft...

  16. #16
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    find a SECURITY BIT (they use them on motorcycle ignitions so you cant take them off)

    like this...... not sure what size ya need but im betting its not that big... looks like they have a 6mm in this kit....

    http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...a%3DN%26um%3D1

    not sure where youre located but if ya have a HARBOR FREIGHT near by they have these kits...

  17. #17
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    The adjustment shaft only backs up a little before it bottoms out on the threads. Not enough to clear the shaft from the hex opening.
    Yeah, I thought about security bits, but from my best guestimate, it looks like the hex size is actually 5/16". If it's metric, would probably be a 8mm. None of the security bit sets i've seen have any hollow hex bits that size. If I really need to, i'll probably just drill a hole in a 5/16" allen key...
    Thanks for the suggestions though...

  18. #18
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    I would be surprised if it were ASE..simply based on the bike industry being predominantly metric..althought the mount bushings are on that shock are 1/2"....so it is possible.

    You might want to check a specialty fastener supplier (we have a place called Tacoma Screw Products here in the Seattle area that carries a plethora of specialty/security driver bits like this). Just take the part in and see if they can fit it...or you could shove some putty or dough of some sort down there,,,then measure the negative mold for size.


    BTW, when you find fittings (either 1/8 or 1/4) try to make sure that the smallest inner diameter is as large as possible. If the ID is 'much' smaller than the existing pathway, you might have some odd results (added damping, pressure, etc).

    I assume you measured your IFP depth before dis-assembly, and know the proper replacement fluid (silkolene).

    Looks good though

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by atchipmunk
    Thanks Nick...I actually had figured that out. I pulled the C-clip and pulled the valve and spring only to realize that there's a special Hex key needed (one that's drilled in the center to clear the center adjustment shaft). I thought about making the tool, but decided to just go ahead and make my cut and do the work and will try to flush it all out as best I can with some parts wash. If I can't clean the area well enough, then I'll worry about making the necessary tool to remove the valve completely. Thanks for the insight though.

    BTW...thanks also for your DHX rebuild guide! It's been instumental in my work thus far!

    Alvin

    Cheers mate

    I have been working on an update to my guide that shows how to take apart the PP spring and such, will hope to have it updated soon

    The actual hex key you need is called a fox DHX socket wrench, PN 398-00-250

    Here is a pic that should help you if you decided to drill a hex key out to make your own.
    Attached Images Attached Images        

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by davep
    I would be surprised if it were ASE..simply based on the bike industry being predominantly metric..althought the mount bushings are on that shock are 1/2"....so it is possible.

    BTW, when you find fittings (either 1/8 or 1/4) try to make sure that the smallest inner diameter is as large as possible. If the ID is 'much' smaller than the existing pathway, you might have some odd results (added damping, pressure, etc).

    I assume you measured your IFP depth before dis-assembly, and know the proper replacement fluid (silkolene).

    Looks good though
    Thanks. Yeah, I figured that the stuff would be Metric as well, but the other screws (Bottom out knob grub screws, IFP bleeder screw, and Propedal Knob screw) all seemed to fit an ASE allen better than any of my allen metric set. So, I just assumed that perhaps the tool needed for the Propedal assembly was the same.

    As for the inner passageways...yeah, i'm pretty sure the ID of the adapters is gonna be bigger than the drilled pathways in the endcap as those are pretty small. The ID of the hose is definitely bigger, and I know the 1/8" NPT fittings are definitely bigger. That only leaves the 1/16"NPT to 1/8"NPT adapter. I don't have that part yet (had to order one because I couldn't find any locally), but the ID should be big enough.
    As for the IFP depth, I did measure it during disassembly, but it was off from where it should have been. I got this shock used and it looks like someone probably ran it with too little pressure in the boost valve because there was air in the oil and the IFP depth was out of spec. When I put it back together, i'll set it to spec and will be refilling with Silkolene Pro RSF oil.

    Nick...Thanks for the added pictures. They definitely help clear up some stuff. Thanks also for the tool part no. You by chance know how much that tool usually costs? Just trying to figure if i'm better off buying the tool or just making my own...

  21. #21
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    lol i would be at the machine shop come monday with an allen wrench that fit and have them drill me a hole... lol (that way its straight) looks like ya got things moving nicely.. cant wait to see the finished product....
    but im wondering why you cant drill your hole like i said... you would only have to drill as deep as the threads on the braided line and that wouldnt be all that deep....
    Last edited by qkenuf4u; 01-24-2010 at 08:21 AM.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by qkenuf4u
    lol i would be at the machine shop come monday with and allen wrench that fit and have them drill me a hole... lol (that ways its straight) looks like ya got things moving nicely.. cant wait to see the finished product....
    but im wondering why you cant drill your hole like i said... you would only have to drill as deep as the threads on the braided line and that wouldnt be all that deep....
    Well, with the cutout for the propedal knob if I drilled and tapped for 1/8"NPT, I only have enough depth for about 3 threads before it would break through to the propedal knob cutout. IMHO, 3 threads are not enough. If I drill and tap for 1/16"NPT, I can drill it slightly off-center towards the previously drilled passageway and I should be able to get more thread depth...

  23. #23
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    ah got ya... just looked like ya had more room.... well i wish ya the best... keep the pics coming...

  24. #24
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    Just for added clarification, here's a pic of the other side of the reservoir so you can see the propedal knob cutout:


    The propedal knob is recessed into the "neck" some which cuts into how deep the hole for the NPT threads could be cut...

  25. #25
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    I have made my own tool to get out the propedal assembly. Itīs a 8mm security bit.
    But it has only a 4mm hole in the middle. I bought a 4,5mm drill to make the hole bigger.
    So I had my tool without paying much.
    I have done it because the two propedal o-rings were leaky.

    keywords: fox dhx 5.0 propedal socket wrench, propedal tool, propedal werkzeug, pro pedal
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Anyone experienced with servicing a Fox DHX 5.0? Need a little help...-tool.jpg  

    Anyone experienced with servicing a Fox DHX 5.0? Need a little help...-propedal.jpg  

    Last edited by trailrocker; 07-20-2010 at 07:21 AM.

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