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  1. #1
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    750 lb coil for 6.5 x 1.5 Vanilla ?

    Just bought a Jamis Dakar as my beginner bike. But I'm 6',1" and 230 pounds. FOX says that I should have at least a 750 pound spring on there for my weight plus gear. I have a 600 x 1.63 FOX spring on it now and it takes way too many turns to get proper sag. FOX says I need a new spring but they want $30 plus shipping and the LBS I bought it from is clueless - when I asked about it at the time of sale the shop owner said "just keep increasing the preload".

    So I ask if anyone has a 750 pound spring for a 6.5 x 1.5 Fox Vanilla shock they want to sell for cheap? Or is there an aftermarket retailer that sells springs for this shock?

    Thanks,

    Steve

  2. #2
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    It sounds like your shop doesn't shop doesn't know what they're talking about. If you need more than 2 turns of preload, you should get a stiffer spring.

    Secondly, ~$30 doesn't sound that bad for the correct spring, but that's just my opinion.

  3. #3
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    C24C, yeah they are less than impressive at that shop. They're mostly roadies and hadtail XC riders I guess. Besides at this pricepoint they just may not care to get involved with helping me to obtain the right spring. Maybe it would cost more than $30 for the shop to help me obtain the right spring? Dunno. Looking for new shop or how to do things myself now. Thanks.

  4. #4
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    $30 is pretty much standard fare...actually, that seems a bit cheap

  5. #5
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    You can order directly from fox too. This will eliminate the middleman. Also,I wouldn't go to a shop that can't even read the bold parts of a manual:

    "IF AFTER THE PRELOAD RING ENGAGES THE SPRING, MORE THAN 2 FULL CLOCKWISE TURNS ARE REQUIRED TO ACHIEVE THE PROPER SAG SETTING, YOU WILL NEED TO OBTAIN A HIGHER RATE SPRING."

  6. #6
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    C24C, that's the exact quote I just sent to the shop in a email stating my disappointment. I'll get the spring from Fox I guess. I just called and registered a complaint with Jamis as well. Thanks for the help.

  7. #7
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    I'm about your exact weight and height, and I have a Dakar with 750 spring

    Quote Originally Posted by ecrock45
    Just bought a Jamis Dakar as my beginner bike. But I'm 6',1" and 230 pounds. FOX says that I should have at least a 750 pound spring on there for my weight plus gear. I have a 600 x 1.63 FOX spring on it now and it takes way too many turns to get proper sag. FOX says I need a new spring but they want $30 plus shipping and the LBS I bought it from is clueless - when I asked about it at the time of sale the shop owner said "just keep increasing the preload".

    So I ask if anyone has a 750 pound spring for a 6.5 x 1.5 Fox Vanilla shock they want to sell for cheap? Or is there an aftermarket retailer that sells springs for this shock?

    Thanks,

    Steve
    First of all dude, stop being cheap! As much as parts cost for these bikes, $30 is nothing to complain about. If you need to warranty that bike because you broke it using the wrong spring - you'll pay more than $30 in shipping charges to get if fixed. Secondly, in my experience with the 750 spring, it sill requires more than two or three turns to get it the way I want it. So if you want it really stiff, I'd go with a higher rated spring if it's avalable. I don't require that much travel so it doesn't bother me. I'm just doing agressive XC and it's been fine for the past 5 years. Never even think to touch it any more.

    I ordered mine directly from FOX and it was $30 with shipping back then too. So, at least they haven't been raising the prices on them.

    Lastly, the Jamis Dakar is a nice choice for us Clydes. You'll need to keep an eye on the linkage making sure everything it is tight but I've been riding mine for 5 years with no probs.

  8. #8
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    Yeah you're right. So what items warrant the most investment on this bike? I REALLY like the CK hubs so that may be a hard sell to do otherwise. I don't ride hard or often so I know they'll be with me for a while.
    So fork , crankset, BB, cass, derr's, cables and brakes? Priority?
    0 - correct spring for rear shock
    0.1 - verify torque settings for everything and actually check them
    1 - Wheels
    2 - Fork
    3 - BB, Crankset, derr's, cass, shifters, cables ( all together?)
    4 - brakes
    5 - 0.1 again

    ???

    Oh can the linkage bolts/threads be better secured with blue loctite?

  9. #9
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    New question here. I missed something. You said you just bought the bike. Is it a compete bike or frame?

    You sound like your building a bike from scratch. If it's a complete bike, I wouldn't waste money buying a bunch of expensive bling bling parts until you've rode the bike for a while and have a feel for what you need to change. If it's a complete bike, your first major expense will be the fork. A night a day difference will be felt when you get the right fork. Next, (if needed) you'll need a strong crank set. Something strong with a reasonable weight - nothing super light or exotic. I'm not sure what all is out there but I went full XT when I built mine and they've never had a problem. Then you just tweek and buy parts within reason as they break or as your needs necessitates.

    CK hubs are the bomb but if you're not racing or riding every day, do you really need them? I've been riding on SRAM 9.0 hubs for 5 years and I've never had to service them. I'm on my 2nd set of rims laced to them and they're still smooth as butter. Drive train is a good investment too. Us clydes usually want to stay in the upper middle of level. Deore or XT or equivilant. Some of the higher end light weight stuff is too fragile for us (ie XTR).

    But if you're building the bike from the frame up, you've got a hard job ahead of you - hundreds of decisions that you'll never know if they're right until you ride the bike. I built mine up from a frame and I ended up buying the same parts twice and three times trying to get it just right. It was fun but I won't do it again. Too much time and money when you can just go to a LBS, size up, buy a bike, and upgrade later. If you're building up from the frame, don't go crazy on parts. Get the best fork for you that you can afford and the rust of the stuff should be reliable, quality, and stuff that you've researched to fit "your" needs. There's just no way around the time factor. You have to do your homework if you're building from scratch. Shipping parts back to be exchanged gets expensive. Wish the best for you.

    BTW, yes, I've used locktite on my parts too. Very smart move, works very well for cranks linkages, ect.
    Last edited by shwndh; 03-13-2007 at 07:13 PM.

  10. #10
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    SOLD. Thanks, ecrock45
    Last edited by derby; 03-17-2007 at 01:26 PM.

  11. #11
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    Since you just said that I looked in my old box and I have a 500 & 700

    I ended up using the 800. I didn't even remember that I had the extra springs. As far as the extra preload, the rebound controls the snapping back action.

  12. #12
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    derby, PM sent.

    I called FOX back and they said that I might need the 800 to really firm up the ride but it would be personal preference.

    Bike is a complete new bike. I wanted to start with a complete bike I can ride whilst upgrading. I had my eye on a high end bike or two but that just didn't pan out. I have been riding mountain bikes since 1994 or so with my first purchase being a GF Paragon, Joshua XO(?), GT Zaskar LE, Specialized Enduro something or other, GT i-drive 2.0(?), Specialized FSR XC Pro(?), Jamis XLT 3.0, Specialized Allez Comp (had to try the roadie stuff), and even a recumbent or two. But a few years ago I got out of cycling all together, sold it all, and got myself a Suzuki , then another, then a Honda, then another,... yes you see where my ADD is headed - Yamaha FZ1 and a Honda 919 now. Now I am trying to sell my last recumbent, the 919. I just decided to buy a lower end bike from the LBS and add a few of the bits I still have left over(CK headset and Thomson seatpost and SDG saddle) to it and begin the upgrades as I like them.

    I haven't ridden in a while and have gained a few pounds (lack of pedaling will do that). The CK's are what I had in years past and I'm sure I will still be comfortable with them again. Now I have to decide if I need the Heavy Duty disc hubs or not( or is it just the drive shell that is HD?). I say this because on one of my old sets I can remember the drive shell (?) having imprints or small gouges from the cassette on it when I removed the cassette. What do you think?
    Sorry for the ramble or lack of coherence, a few brews will do that.

  13. #13
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    Smile Awe man, you've been riding forever. You should give us some advice

    Thought you were a nOOb. I've only been riding mountian bikes since 1999, but I have an old BMX/Freestyle history too. (man I'm getting old) Anyway, If you've been around that long and have experience with high end stuff, spend as much as like - thats what I say.

    But, like I mentioned earlier, I got the 800 and it's been fine for me. Gives a pretty stiff ride if you crank it 3 or 4 times and plush under that for our weight. I'd reccomend the 800. I don't think you'll be disappointed.

  14. #14
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    I've got an 800lb Eibach spring that I'd be willing to sell. PM me for more info.

  15. #15
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    shwndh, I feel like a noob. I'm excited to get a mountain bike again but I have a learning curve to catch up with. The bike hasn't been ridden for more than a few turns around the parking lot to ensure fit because I knew the shock spring was way soft and the preload too high at the time. So the bike sits until I receive the springs I just bought. Thanks WaveDude but I just placed my order with someone else. Maybe someone else will see this and need yours. Thanks all.

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