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  1. #1
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    30 hr. suspension fluid service on a 2011 36 Talas RLC?

    Has anyone ever done this "simple" service? All the Fox tutorials I see are for different models, and they appear to disassemble more than is necessary.

    Anyone care to create a youtube tutorial? I asked an LBS and they want $50 to do it. I can't afford to pay $50 every two weeks to have my fork serviced.

    Thanks for any help.
    Last edited by happyriding; 06-26-2013 at 12:06 PM.

  2. #2
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    I am taking a guess here as I am not looking at the manual but I presume you only need to change the splash oil in the legs that often. Even then, I would only do it every two months unless you ride a ton.

    It is very simple to do and can be accomplished with very basic tools and limited knowledge of anything mechanical. Just make sure you buy extra crush washers from fox as you should replace them every time you do this service. There are plenty of videos on the web showing how to do this. I believe competitive cyclist even has this basic service video on their website.

  3. #3
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    There are plenty of videos on the web showing how to do this.
    I've looked everywhere for instructions, and I haven't found any good info.

    I believe competitive cyclist even has this basic service video on their website.
    If you are talking about this:

    Competitive Cyclist shows you how to overhaul your Fox forks and shocks - YouTube

    it is old (before FIT), and it is incomplete.
    Last edited by happyriding; 11-30-2011 at 07:44 PM.

  4. #4
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    Here you go, quick and easy how-to from Mojo (offical UK Fox distributor):

    http://www.mojo.co.uk/media%20pix/ForkFlyerWeb.pdf

  5. #5
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    Good Luck---taking that same maiden voyage myself--but with the float FIT 140mm--looks pretty straightforward--had to buy the 26mm online, anybody know where to get the cool syringes?? Measuring stuff?? 30ml of oil is only 1oz--weird

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by happyriding View Post
    I've looked everywhere for instructions, and I haven't found any good info.


    If you are talking about this:

    Competitive Cyclist shows you how to overhaul your Fox forks and shocks - YouTube

    it is old (before FIT), and it is incomplete.
    Fit, no fit, new, old, same thing if you are just trying to change your splash oil. Undo nuts on bottom of legs; pull down slightly, put in new oil using some form of measuring device, put nuts back on with new crush washer. Fit refers to the damper and has absolutely nothing to do with changing the splash oil. Or just go to Fox's site and pull down instructions if you don't believe competitive cyclist or me.

  7. #7
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    You shouldn’t need a 26mm (32mm for 36 forks) socket for regular servicing - that is only needed for removing the top caps for removing the damper assembly and/or spring assembly, which is only required for more major services.
    Oil bath service with a seal clean and lube should be done as per the mojo PDF. If you only want to change the oil, you don’t even need to separate the uppers and lowers, just change the oil through the bolt holes in the bottom of the lowers.

    36's are the same as 32's in this respect. Just remove bottom nuts/RC2 adjusters etc. and tap on the bottom bolts to loosen them.

    For syringes, ask google syringe - Google Search
    Or find them on bestofferbuy, dealextreme or Ebay
    I got mine from bestofferbuy
    Search Results : Electronic Gadgets, Home Gifts & Unusual Novelty Gifts - BestOfferBuy
    Last edited by gravelrash08; 12-02-2011 at 04:31 AM.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trackho View Post
    Good Luck---taking that same maiden voyage myself
    Thanks.

    had to buy the 26mm online,
    Who sells the ground down sockets? Or are you going to grind it down yourself?

    anybody know where to get the cool syringes??
    When I was working on my hydro brakes, I bought syringes in various sizes at a veterinary supply store for under $1 a piece. Then find the smallest clear plastic tubing available to fit the nipple on the syringe, which I think is 1/8". 1/8" is not a very tight fit, so you have to mind the connection.

    30ml of oil is only 1oz--weird
    The more oil, the heavier the fork.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by smithrider View Post
    Fit, no fit, new, old, same thing if you are just trying to change your splash oil. Undo nuts on bottom of legs; pull down slightly, put in new oil using some form of measuring device, put nuts back on with new crush washer.
    Okay. I'll give it a try.

    My next problem: who sells crush washers for Talas 36mm forks? I think Talas forks have a plastic crush washer that goes on one leg, and an aluminum crush washer that goes on the other leg. I can't find the crush washers at the Fox store.

    Also, can I use the red Fox 10wt oil as the bath oil instead of the green 10wt? JensonUSA gave me bad advice and sold me the red instead of the green that I need.
    (Edit. Not recommended here: fox green 10wt, looking for substitute)

    And while I'm doing all this should I go ahead and install the new SKF seals? I only see 32mm SKF seals offered at the Fox store.
    (Edit. Available at JensonUSA: Fox Shox Low Friction Seals at JensonUSA.com)

    Thanks.
    Last edited by happyriding; 12-02-2011 at 01:46 PM.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by smithrider View Post
    Fit, no fit, new, old, same thing if you are just trying to change your splash oil. Undo nuts on bottom of legs; pull down slightly, put in new oil using some form of measuring device, put nuts back on with new crush washer. Fit refers to the damper and has absolutely nothing to do with changing the splash oil. Or just go to Fox's site and pull down instructions if you don't believe competitive cyclist or me.
    If it's not the sealed damper, then you need to empty the damper of oil as well, otherwise you'll overfill it.

  11. #11
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    You should be able to reuse the crush washers. I have yet to replace a crush washer and there have never been leaks from the reused washers. If you need them, Fox sells them. Just give them a call. I would suggest ordering several things to justify shipping. Or check your LBS.

    As for syringes, I picked up a couple at a pharmacy. They have a few sizes. You can get water line/hose that fits the tips from a hardware store or Lowe's/Home Depot.

    While not truly necessary, it might not be a bad idea to take a peak at the top of the air piston. Some folks are experiencing oil migration from the lowers to the top of the piston. I remove my top cap using a tool from here:
    Lunar Bike Tools

    A socket will allow you to use a torque wrench but I haven't had a problem using these yet. You should have 5cc (or less, just enough to cover the piston) of Float fluid on top of the air piston.

    As for fork seals, I typically don't replace them til they leak.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by bad mechanic View Post
    If it's not the sealed damper, then you need to empty the damper of oil as well, otherwise you'll overfill it.
    On '09 and newer 36's (09 non fit), I have never had the need to do damper service everytime I add splash oil to lower leg. Could be wrong on this. This is definitely not the case with his 2010.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by wheatgerm View Post
    You should be able to reuse the crush washers. I have yet to replace a crush washer and there have never been leaks from the reused washers.
    Okay.

    While not truly necessary, it might not be a bad idea to take a peak at the top of the air piston. Some folks are experiencing oil migration from the lowers to the top of the piston. I remove my top cap using a tool from here:
    Lunar Bike Tools
    Nice. Thanks. lol, shipping is more than the tool!

    A socket will allow you to use a torque wrench but I haven't had a problem using these yet. You should have 5cc (or less, just enough to cover the piston) of Float fluid on top of the air piston.

    As for fork seals, I typically don't replace them til they leak.
    Okay.

    Thanks for the tips.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Corvette View Post
    Here you go, quick and easy how-to from Mojo (offical UK Fox distributor):

    http://www.mojo.co.uk/media%20pix/ForkFlyerWeb.pdf
    Thanks. It looks like that is the best there is.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by wheatgerm View Post
    While not truly necessary, it might not be a bad idea to take a peak at the top of the air piston. Some folks are experiencing oil migration from the lowers to the top of the piston. I remove my top cap using a tool from here:
    Lunar Bike Tools
    Which fork leg is the air piston in?

    A socket will allow you to use a torque wrench but I haven't had a problem using these yet. You should have 5cc (or less, just enough to cover the piston) of Float fluid on top of the air piston.

    As for fork seals, I typically don't replace them til they leak.

  16. #16
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    Left leg - the one with the air valve on top. The other leg, non-air leg, is the one with the rebound, compression and lockout levers (you may not have all 3).

    On second note, I noticed you are running a TALAS fork. I am not sure how the air piston assembly works in that fork.

    May want to check here:

    WebHelp
    Last edited by wheatgerm; 12-07-2011 at 04:58 PM.

  17. #17
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    Thanks a lot.

    Do the rebound and compression settings have to be dialed all the way in/out before starting the service? I assume I have to let all the air out of the fork.

  18. #18
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    No, you may just want to note where they are at in case you turn the adjusters mistakenly.

    Also, I edited my post above. The TALAS air assembly is different. Thus checking the amount of fluid on the air piston is/may be different. Check the link I have added above.

    Servicing the lower splash fluid is not different though.

  19. #19
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    Thanks. I've looked all over the Fox tech service Webhelp, and I have no idea what does and doesn't apply to my 2011 Fox 36 Talas RLC fork, so unless I get a link to a specific page, I have no idea what you are referring to.

  20. #20
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    Well, it looks like the 2011 TALAS is considered "Talas III". Look under 2010-2012 Parts Catalog, 2011 Fork Parts, 2011 36 TALAS 160, 2011 36 TALAS 160 Parts Specifications Master Sheet, 2011 36 TALAS 160 Spring Side Small Parts PNs and note the TALAS III note.

    OK, next, go to Service, Forks, 36 mm TALAS III Spring Service. Here's your service instructions. Doesn't seem to be too difficult. Way easier than the older Talas systems. Note, TALAS III Outer Tube: Disassembly is only necessary if you suspect TALAS adjuster tube issues, such as travel steps not properly adjusting or evidence of travel creep.

    You should be set now.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by wheatgerm View Post
    Well, it looks like the 2011 TALAS is considered "Talas III". Look under 2010-2012 Parts Catalog, 2011 Fork Parts, 2011 36 TALAS 160, 2011 36 TALAS 160 Parts Specifications Master Sheet, 2011 36 TALAS 160 Spring Side Small Parts PNs....
    I got there, but I don't know where this is:

    and note the TALAS III note.
    OK, next, go to Service, Forks, 36 mm TALAS III Spring Service. Here's your service instructions. Doesn't seem to be too difficult. Way easier than the older Talas systems. Note, TALAS III Outer Tube: Disassembly is only necessary if you suspect TALAS adjuster tube issues, such as travel steps not properly adjusting or evidence of travel creep.

    You should be set now.
    I've decided I won't be do anything on that page unless I'm forced to. At this point, I can't imagine ever owning a Fox fork again.

  22. #22
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    All modern forks out there require regular maintenance. It won't be any different with a different manufacturer.

  23. #23
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    Dude, as a new owner of this fork I think you are worrying and stressing way too much.

    Most of what you are looking at only needs doing every few years, and should probably be carried out by a professional service centre in any case. Basically, anything that involves fiddling with the TALAS assembly or FIT damper should be left well alone on such a new fork.

    The one bit you have already done, ie lubing the foam seals, is probably the only job that really needs doing regularly, and that probably only every six months. However, it probably is nearly as easy to pull the lowers all the way off and change the oil while you are at it.

    You keep asking about finding the correct service info for your fork, but as has already been said, for the purposes of an oil change, they really are all the same. Undo the bottom nuts, tap the bolts loose. Pull down on the lowers. Change oil and reassemble.

    My advice is DO NOT buy a 32mm socket. Leave those bits of your fork alone for the next couple years at least. Put some lube (eg fox float fluid or finish line wet lube) on your fork stanchions after every ride, then pump the forks a couple of times and wipe all the gunk off with a cloth. Never point a hosepipe at your fork stanchions. Take off the lowers to change oil and lube the foam rings once every 6 months or so. Job done.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by gravelrash08 View Post
    The one bit you have already done, ie lubing the foam seals, is probably the only job that really needs doing regularly, and that probably only every six months...Put some lube (eg fox float fluid or finish line wet lube) on your fork stanchions after every ride, then pump the forks a couple of times and wipe all the gunk off with a cloth. Never point a hosepipe at your fork stanchions. Take off the lowers to change oil and lube the foam rings once every 6 months or so. Job done.
    Maintenance for Fox forks goes off riding hours, not the calendar. The Fox 36 should have its bath oil changed every 30 hours of riding. Also, as has already been covered in several other threads, wet lube should not be used on the stanchions as it will only attract dirt and can actually carry dirt past the wiper.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by bad mechanic View Post
    Maintenance for Fox forks goes off riding hours, not the calendar. The Fox 36 should have its bath oil changed every 30 hours of riding. Also, as has already been covered in several other threads, wet lube should not be used on the stanchions as it will only attract dirt and can actually carry dirt past the wiper.
    I hear what you are saying, but was trying to simplify the situation. I know I change my oil much less often than 30hrs riding, but I am very careful about how I clean my bike and lubing the stanchions

    Regarding wet seals, this video claims otherwise - Mojo Suspension Hoodoo Ltd: The UK's Only Authorised Fox Racing Shox Warranty & Service Centre

    And I did also say to wipe the gunk off afterwards.

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