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Thread: 2015 Fox 36

  1. #201
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    2015 Fox 36

    Ok, thanks LCW! It just felt kind of "soft" after about 22 clicks when I first tried it and I definitely didn't want to overcook it..so I counted the clicks from that point on

  2. #202
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    Anyone know if HBO can still be installed in these new RC2?
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  3. #203
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    So three out of three guys I know locally with the 2015 36 float 160mm are sending them back due to bush play in the left leg. Mine a 27.5" OEM from Santa Cruz, and two 26" factory ones straight from Fox. I noticed mine 2-3 rides in, another noticed first ride, the third has about 10 rides on it and the least play.

    Not really a good sign.

  4. #204
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    It's a bummer that it looks like we will all be sending our new Fox forks back in for repair sooner rather than later.

    Anyways, I have several questions for you guys:

    1) I'm so effin' confused regarding proper sag. My LBS says to use 30% and they are core, MTBAction says to use 30% in their review of the same forks, Cane Creek says to use 30% on their shock, and my personal experience showed that on my previous Fox 34mm forks I had no front end traction at any less than 30% sag. YET, I look on Fox's website and they tell me to run 15-20% and apparently that's what everyone around here is running. Why such a huge disparity in what sag numbers we should be running on an AM rig? FYI, sag should not be a variable in suspension set up as it sets the geometry of the bike.

    2) I can not get decent sag numbers out of my new forks (still yet to be ridden). I'm at 50psi (weigh 183#) and I still only get about 20mm sag. I tried the trick of letting all the air out (bike was dangling at the time, so no pressure on the front end while doing the air empty or refill) and then refilling but no difference. I can't reach my sag numbers. What should I do? Do I just need to ride them for a bit then try setting my sag? Maybe they are just sticky?

    3) On Fox's website they recommended setting the HSC at 13 clicks out from full clockwise. Well I only have 12 clicks total!!! I set it at 8 instead to sort of be in the middle. What gives??

    Thanks
    Last edited by Suns_PSD; 09-16-2014 at 05:21 AM.

  5. #205
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    30% sag is a lot for an air fork, despite their best attempts, air forks start off somewhat progressive, then go linear, then end progressive. 30% sag can get you into the linear spring area more and gives the damping that much less travel to work with, leading to more dive, wallow, the fork kind of flopping around, etc. It's usually a fairly fine line between having the right sag and simply an over-sprung fork that bounces off stuff, but 30% sag is a LOT of sag for any air fork. Typically I'd use around 20%, but every fork is different.
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  6. #206
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    Well I have to give it to Fox, they are really trying to be on top the customer service issues. They got my fork Thursday morning, and by Friday night it was already on it's way back to me. I spoke with one of the reps who looked up my warranty order. They replaced the bushings/seals/wipers, serviced it and changed the oil, etc. He said they threw it on a dyno for a few cycles to check the damper and it passed with flying colors, so shouldn't be any issues there in regards to me not getting full travel.

    The rep did say that the 20% sag target is a more of a "one size fits all" type of target, and that with the slacker head tube so many bikes have now, it's not unusual to run 25% or even close to 30% to be able to get full travel. He also said he was very surprised to hear about the bushing issues, and did the other two folks I spoke to at one point. And they all seemed sincere and not just giving lip service.

    My guess is they got a bad run of bushings or something, which working in production myself I can see happening. To the poster above, my buddy said he thought my left leg had more play than my right, FWIW.

    Fork is out for delivery right now, so I plan on getting it mounted up tonight. I'll increase the sag some and see how that does on my next ride.
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  7. #207
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    Just got a 15 36 Talas in 26". It replaced a 13 32 EVO Talas. Of course in comparison to that POS it's the best thing since sliced bread. Only got two rides on it so far and still finding the settings, but trails that were Black Diamond to the 32 are Blue/Green to the 36.
    Confidence has gone up, better climbing (not sure how) & now looking for trouble vs. avoiding it are the new choice in lines.

  8. #208
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    Hello Gents,
    I've been a lurker on mtbr.com for quite some time and have never posted in the 4+ years I've been visiting. Well, I purchased the new Fox 36 Talas recently for my older Specialized (2008 Enduro) and thought I'd post a couple pics. I also purchased retro decal kit and retro fitted my Fox Float X CTD with matching stickers. Only had 3 rides on the 36 here on some Utah trails, so still trying to getting it dialed in, but already much better than my previous fork. Believe it or not, I was still riding on the Specialized E150 fork prior to purchasing the 36. Anyways, thanks for all the invaluable info you guys post! I appreciate it!
    <a href="http://s339.photobucket.com/user/JeramieHalverson2/media/IMG_4494.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i339.photobucket.com/albums/n464/JeramieHalverson2/IMG_4494.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_4494.jpg"/></a>
    <a href="http://s339.photobucket.com/user/JeramieHalverson2/media/IMG_4497.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i339.photobucket.com/albums/n464/JeramieHalverson2/IMG_4497.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_4497.jpg"/></a>

  9. #209
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    I am really interested in the Fox 36 and I will most probably order it within the next months. Regarding the sag% it also sounds strange to me to run it with only 20% sag since in all my FS bikes I was always running 25-35% sag especially in long travel forks (170mm). In my HT however I run lower sag% but usually I prefer to set up my forks and shocks based on their actual feeling and performance rather than just a standard sag% that doesn't take into consideration my head angle, the actual travel etc.

    Anyway most probably this is a new generation air spring (like the Pike one) so once I receive it I will set it up accordingly.

  10. #210
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    MX bikes are going on their 3rd year of running production air forks on several models and it hasn't changed the proper sag numbers off the traditional 30%.

    Sag is not used to control suspension performance, bottoming, etc... It sets the geometry of the bike and bikes have an intended geometry that offers the best compromise in handling for their intended usage. I could see running slightly different sag numbers. For instance changing the rear sag on an MX bike by 5 mm (less than 2% change) completely alters the handling of the MX bike and can easily take it from a stable missle to a skittish quick turning bike.

    When I first began riding MTBs, man I thought they handled like crap. My Bronson just wouldn't turn. Then a LBS dude told me to go to 30% and what a difference. Frankly, I just think that 90% of the posters are running incorrect sag for an AM rig.

  11. #211
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    Are you sure the forks are equalising the air chambers correctly? If you remove all the air and then extend the fork fully and cycle within the first 1-5mm of travel it will allow the air in the negative chamber to travel into the positive chamber. It's also important to do this when you fill the fork up from having no air pressure in it.

    Quote Originally Posted by Suns_PSD View Post
    It's a bummer that it looks like we will all be sending our new Fox forks back in for repair sooner rather than later.

    Anyways, I have several questions for you guys:

    1) I'm so effin' confused regarding proper sag. My LBS says to use 30% and they are core, MTBAction says to use 30% in their review of the same forks, Cane Creek says to use 30% on their shock, and my personal experience showed that on my previous Fox 34mm forks I had no front end traction at any less than 30% sag. YET, I look on Fox's website and they tell me to run 15-20% and apparently that's what everyone around here is running. Why such a huge disparity in what sag numbers we should be running on an AM rig? FYI, sag should not be a variable in suspension set up as it sets the geometry of the bike.

    2) I can not get decent sag numbers out of my new forks (still yet to be ridden). I'm at 50psi (weigh 183#) and I still only get about 20mm sag. I tried the trick of letting all the air out (bike was dangling at the time, so no pressure on the front end while doing the air empty or refill) and then refilling but no difference. I can't reach my sag numbers. What should I do? Do I just need to ride them for a bit then try setting my sag? Maybe they are just sticky?

    3) On Fox's website they recommended setting the HSC at 13 clicks out from full clockwise. Well I only have 12 clicks total!!! I set it at 8 instead to sort of be in the middle. What gives??

    Thanks

  12. #212
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    I have bushing play also, if you jam your finger between the lower arch and the kashima stanchion and rock the bike back n forth you can feel the jiggle. As well through harder hits I feel clacking coming from the fork, I've checked everything, and finally swapped out the fork to make sure that was the problem, which it is. Looks like I'll be sending in also
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  13. #213
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    BTW I'm running 70psi (which is about 25% sag depending on how you measure front fork sag, which is kind of difficult to do anyway) and 8-10 clicks in of LSC from open, almost no high speed, and I forget the rebound (lol)
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  14. #214
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Draper View Post
    Are you sure the forks are equalising the air chambers correctly? If you remove all the air and then extend the fork fully and cycle within the first 1-5mm of travel it will allow the air in the negative chamber to travel into the positive chamber. It's also important to do this when you fill the fork up from having no air pressure in it.
    No I have not. So you are saying to remove all air, stretch the fork all of the way out, then to cycle it (fully or just 1-5mm)?

  15. #215
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    Quote Originally Posted by Suns_PSD View Post
    No I have not. So you are saying to remove all air, stretch the fork all of the way out, then to cycle it (fully or just 1-5mm)?
    Stretch the fork fully extended and cycle within 1-5mm of full extension to remove air from the negative chamber. When you refill it do the same but compressing the fork. There are some useful videos on the fox website. I will try and get you a link now.

    FORK- 2015 36 FLOAT | Bike Help Center | FOX

    Watch the one about the adjusting the air chamber volume towards the bottom but ignore the removal of the air shaft and fitting of the volume spacers. It explains at about 2 minutes in how to correctly fill the fork with air to make sure the chambers equalise.

  16. #216
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yody View Post
    ...depending on how you measure front fork sag, which is kind of difficult to do anyway...
    Take your calipers and use them to measure something that you can cut to length for your desired sag. I contemplated using chopsticks before settling on a drinking straw that was plenty stiff. I now have one straw cut to 17mm for the shock and one cut to 48mm for the forks that allow me to easily measure sag even in tight spaces.

  17. #217
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    Quote Originally Posted by Suns_PSD View Post
    Take your calipers and use them to measure something that you can cut to length for your desired sag. I contemplated using chopsticks before settling on a drinking straw that was plenty stiff. I now have one straw cut to 17mm for the shock and one cut to 48mm for the forks that allow me to easily measure sag even in tight spaces.
    How do you use the straw, and how is it better than a zip tie around the stanchion?

  18. #218
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    Quote Originally Posted by smilinsteve View Post
    How do you use the straw, and how is it better than a zip tie around the stanchion?
    The straw replaces your measuring tape and it's the exact sag amount that I am trying to get to. A measuring tape can be very hard to accurately get in and out of the tight spaces of a bicycle. You still use your O-ring/ zip tye to measure from.

    Also, the cut straws are light and easy to carry around to the trails or whatever. But mainly they are full proof and accurate in a way that a tape, they you have to measure from afar, just can't be.

  19. #219
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    Can't believe anyone still uses sag to set up this generation of linear forks. Pressure to get full travel should be the datum.

  20. #220
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    30% sag is a lot for an air fork, despite their best attempts, air forks start off somewhat progressive, then go linear, then end progressive. 30% sag can get you into the linear spring area more and gives the damping that much less travel to work with, leading to more dive, wallow, the fork kind of flopping around, etc. It's usually a fairly fine line between having the right sag and simply an over-sprung fork that bounces off stuff, but 30% sag is a LOT of sag for any air fork. Typically I'd use around 20%, but every fork is different.
    Not to mention how one ends up setting their sag. Obviously, while seated, the sag will be less than standing. But then while standing, you can shift your weight quite a ways between front and back.

    I like setting my front sag while standing, with a slight front weight bias, but not too much. Then I slowly sit and set the rear sag (push the o-ring in place). Then I carefully get off and check sag. I'll do it a couple times to make sure I didn't bounce the bike while dismounting.

    I'm with Jayem - I'm usually around 20%, but no more. Depending on riding condition or riding style (trail riding, vs bike park, vs racing an enduro), I can be between 15-20%.

    BUT... I've got one orange spacer swapped in my 36 to try instead of the stock blue one. Will see how it performs once I get one riding my usual trails, but if I can lower the pressure a bit, and still have good mid to full stroke support and use full travel on the biggest hits, it might be a good way to go. Hopefully a bit better small bump performance.
    Last edited by LCW; 09-21-2014 at 04:39 PM.

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    colors were made for that bike..that's awesome!
    2015 Fox 36-img_4494.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by Suns_PSD View Post
    The straw replaces your measuring tape and it's the exact sag amount that I am trying to get to.
    That's a great idea, I'm doing that next time.

  23. #223
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    Quote Originally Posted by LCW View Post
    Not to mention how one ends up setting their sag. Obviously, while seated, the sag will be less than standing. But then while standing, you can shift your weight quite a ways between front and back.
    When measuring sag, fork or shock, I stand balanced on the pedals. It is the only way I can get consistent measurements owing to the potential front/back movement mentioned above. You end up with less sag on the rear vs sitting, but it is more reliable. For example, on my Nomad standing balanced on the pedals I get 25% sag, sitting it is about 33%, riding it is perfect.

    Sag on the 36 is hard to get consistent numbers. Even backing out the rebound and LSC to full fast and being super careful you will still have a couple mm difference. As to what sag %, I think it varies on bike. On the Nomad 25% sag required 50 psi. 50 psi required way too much HSC damping and would require additional volume spacers. The long front end and slack HA transfer more weight to the rear when measuring. I'm running 62 psi now and have stopped measuring sag on the fork. It rides great.

    Guess I need to go check for bushing play.

  24. #224
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    Monster truck, I'm using similar air pressure, like 60 psi. What is your body weight? I'm around 170ish with gear.

  25. #225
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    I am 185# without gear, so 195#ish.

  26. #226
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    FWIW, got my fork back last night and back on the bike. I re-installed the stock blue spacer to start as a baseline. Geared up I'm about 205, and I'm running about 70 psi, that gets me right at 25% sag.

    I measured my sag with my weight centered over the bike, and both HSC and LSC wide open. We'll see how it does today after work.
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  27. #227
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    Quote Originally Posted by gvs_nz View Post
    Can't believe anyone still uses sag to set up this generation of linear forks. Pressure to get full travel should be the datum.
    The air spring is used to set the geometry of the bike, the valving is used to control how fast it moves.

    Sure increasing air pressure will reduce bottoming, but it's also like using an undamped pogo stick for suspension.

    That's how I see it anyways.

  28. #228
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    You misunderstood my post. I agree with you to a point . But with latest gen linear forks the air spring is also as important as the damping circuit in controlling the stroke.

    My point was you don't use sag as your reference point on a linear fork. You use the endpoint of travel not the starting point as ref. Sure sag is a very rough ref to compare other riders setups. I suspect rider weight/air pressure ratio [ maybe subtract 5 to 10 psi per travel token] is a better guide to other riders.
    Last edited by gvs_nz; 09-17-2014 at 04:28 PM.

  29. #229
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    Im installing this on the wagon wheeler.
    2015 Fox 36-screen-shot-2014-09-17-2.02.55-pm.png
    Appears lowering it is more involved than I would've expected

    Didn't receive any negative plate spacers with it either, so I can't lower the fork, along with not having the damper and cartridge removal tool or slick honey.

    Man, some more shopping is in order
    Last edited by PUNKY; 09-17-2014 at 04:20 PM.

  30. #230
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    Quote Originally Posted by gvs_nz View Post
    Can't believe anyone still uses sag to set up this generation of linear forks. Pressure to get full travel should be the datum.
    Agreed, could care less about sag. I look at using almost all of the travel for a given trail and track air pressure. I might be an idiot but that's what works for me.

  31. #231
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    Got mine and have a good couple rides on it, including a trail system where fork setup is difficult, at best. It has slow speed steeps, mid-speed chunder, gaps and a few small drops to flat. I could get the 34 this repalced on my Diamondback Mission 27.5 set up for the nasty stuff, but it felt harsh the rest of the time and I swear it spiked a bit, even though it technically shouldn't.

    The 36 27.5 at 160mm now keeps up with my frame and rear shock. I didn't even think about the fork on the first few rides, which is a great sign.

    I agree with everyone above that sag is a really poor way to set up a fork. Too many variables. I set rear sag and pressure the way I like it, and then get the front to feel balanced with the rear.

    I'm running 1 orange + 1 blue token and 82 psi. HSC and LSC are right at Fox's recommended starting points. I'm 205 + gear, so probably 215 on the bike.

    I like my fork firm but a bit plush (firm in parking lot tests but soak up the small stuff) and to ride high in the travel with lots of ramp up so I don't bottom harshly on bigger hits. Used all my travel a few times on the shakedown trail, but never harshly. The stiffness difference between this and the 34 is noticeable, and it's a WAY better fork. This new 36 is a great match to this frame which handles my style and size beautifully.

  32. #232
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    Re: 2015 Fox 36

    Quote Originally Posted by PUNKY View Post
    Im installing this on the wagon wheeler.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Appears lowering it is more involved than I would've expected

    Didn't receive any negative plate spacers with it either, so I can't lower the fork, along with not having the damper and cartridge removal tool or slick honey.

    Man, some more shopping is in order
    You got the 160?
    You'll love it; what frame?
    Been running a 150 on a Tallboy LT w/~27% sag, 2 orange and 1 blue token, at 53psi. It's scary how smooth it is after it breaks in!
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    2015 Fox 36

    It's the 150 Float. Plan is to lower it down to 140 and run it on my Chromag Surface. It will replace the 34 Talas RLC I had on there for 2 years.
    Need to get negative spacers now

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    Can a Talas 36 use the spacers too?

  35. #235
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    Anyone notice that it seems like there isn't a lot of high speed rebound? You can crank the LSR so it feels right, not too slow, not too fast. But if you don't stay on top of it, the fork can unload on you and pop up super fast. Makes for a fun/fast ride but just once in awhile it almost gets away from me. Don't want to slow it down anymore as it feels just right when parking lot testing
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  36. #236
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    2015 Fox 36

    You might want to have your fork checked. Doesn't sound right. I run 4-6 clicks (from fast or full open) of rebound. No issues with high speed (aka end of stroke ie when fully compressed) rebound. This is with 68-75 psi range (depends if riding trail or gravity/bike park).

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    Haven't noticed any fast kickback when close to fully compressed either. Fork is really great for me even with no fine tuning, and feels great throughout travel compression and rebound.

    This fork was such an improvement from anything I have ridden I had to order another for my new bike. Will have green retro decals to match my new frame. Choosing to run a 36 float lowered to 140 or 130 over a 34 float, since it is lighter, stronger and probably feels better. Along with the 15/20mm axle choice it wasn't a hard decision to go 36 again. Have 1 - 26" on the Nomad, and will post up the new 27.5" on the new frame when it's all together and ridden at least once.

  38. #238
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    Oh well definitely not the harsh kick back you'd get like on the older gen forks, that was the worst. Hard to explain on this fork, no big deal really, just seems like good low speed valving, maybe not as much high speed. Who knows. Fork is bad ass, transformed the way the bike feels
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  39. #239
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    New question here. Service

    Where are the 2015 RC2 Damper Technical Drawings and service instruction pages?

    Who sells the Negative Plate Spacers PN: 234-04-627 ?
    ...

  40. #240
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    Quote Originally Posted by Deerhill View Post
    Where are the 2015 RC2 Damper Technical Drawings and service instruction pages?

    Who sells the Negative Plate Spacers PN: 234-04-627 ?

    I think they do not have damper service instructions anymore, and recommend having dampers serviced in house.

    Call fox if you are in the US and they should be able to sell the part number you need, or tell you to order it through a shop.

  41. #241
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    Fox usually only change the online instructions when reqd, not annually. Should be the same as previous version instructions?

  42. #242
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  43. #243
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    Good job!

    Finally starting to unlock the full potential of this amazing fork...

    I've been running pretty firm, about 15-20% sag so far. Old school thinking of needing pressure to keep the fork up and not allow it to blow through. It was pretty good, but felt it could use a bit more plushness and control (and be less tiring) - and get some twitchiness out (aka improve traction I guess).

    Well tried something a bit different after reading up on setups. Decided to increase sag to 25-30%. At the same time, to prevent blowing through at this higher sag, swapped from 1 blue to 1 orange spacer. (Fox has made it SO easy to swap spacers, it's awesome!).

    My latest setup, which destroys rock gardens, making them feel like velvet carpets is the following. (I'm about 200-205 geared up, and this is on my 575 running a Float X rear).

    Front: 68 psi
    LSC: 12-15*
    HSC: 7
    RBD: 4
    Volume spacer: 1 orange (10.8cc)

    (clicks shown are from full open)

    *12 clicks (from open) was great for chunky technical trail (good small bump compliance, plush but controlled). Bumped it up to 15 clicks of LSC for drops (4-5 ft) and steep rock rolls. But not as plush on small stuff, so would click the LSC back down for the rest of the trail.

    At first I wasn't sure how it would react on the drops and chunky stuff with that much sag (vs what I had been using). I was expecting wallow and blow through travel (again, old school expectation). Instead I was greated with plushness, control and overall much better ride! This fork just continues to impress me! Used all the travel on the biggest stuff, but never harsh bottom out. Quite amazing, as the fork just soaks it up instead of sending my over the bars lol.

    My next step will be to drop a few psi more (68 down to 65) and trying 2 blue spacers (total 15.2cc) instead of the 1 orange (10.8cc). I felt a bit more ramp up with slightly lower initial pressure would dial it in just that tiny bit more. From there on, just a matter of tweaking the LSC for different conditions.

    This fork is awesome.

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  44. #244
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    Re: 2015 Fox 36

    Quote Originally Posted by LCW View Post
    Finally starting to unlock the full potential of this amazing fork...

    I've been running pretty firm, about 15-20% sag so far. Old school thinking of needing pressure to keep the fork up and not allow it to blow through. It was pretty good, but felt it could use a bit more plushness and control (and be less tiring) - and get some twitchiness out (aka improve traction I guess).

    Well tried something a bit different after reading up on setups. Decided to increase sag to 25-30%. At the same time, to prevent blowing through at this higher sag, swapped from 1 blue to 1 orange spacer. (Fox has made it SO easy to swap spacers, it's awesome!).

    My latest setup, which destroys rock gardens, making them feel like velvet carpets is the following. (I'm about 200-205 geared up, and this is on my 575 running a Float X rear).

    Front: 68 psi
    LSC: 12-15*
    HSC: 7
    RBD: 4
    Volume spacer: 1 orange (10.8cc)

    (clicks shown are from full open)

    *12 clicks (from open) was great for chunky technical trail (good small bump compliance, plush but controlled). Bumped it up to 15 clicks of LSC for drops (4-5 ft) and steep rock rolls. But not as plush on small stuff, so would click the LSC back down for the rest of the trail.

    At first I wasn't sure how it would react on the drops and chunky stuff with that much sag (vs what I had been using). I was expecting wallow and blow through travel (again, old school expectation). Instead I was greated with plushness, control and overall much better ride! This fork just continues to impress me! Used all the travel on the biggest stuff, but never harsh bottom out. Quite amazing, as the fork just soaks it up instead of sending my over the bars lol.

    My next step will be to drop a few psi more (68 down to 65) and trying 2 blue spacers (total 15.2cc) instead of the 1 orange (10.8cc). I felt a bit more ramp up with slightly lower initial pressure would dial it in just that tiny bit more. From there on, just a matter of tweaking the LSC for different conditions.

    This fork is awesome.
    Yeah, I dunno why but when I tell peeps to lower pressure and add more tokens... especially in the Pike thread, I get the reaction like I just fed their 1st born to the dingos!?

    Anyways, I'm 190 ish kitted up and have 2 orange and 1 blue with about 53psi. No dive/wallow and very nice ramp up towards the end of stroke. I recently opened up the rebound a bit more and got a bit better traction.
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  45. #245
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    2015 Fox 36

    Interesting - you've got quite a bit more progressive spring setup. Is this on 26 or 27.5? Travel?

    Mine is a 26 160.

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  46. #246
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    Re: 2015 Fox 36

    Quote Originally Posted by LCW View Post
    Interesting - you've got quite a bit more progressive spring setup. Is this on 26 or 27.5? Travel?

    Mine is a 26 160.
    29er, 150
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  47. #247
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    2015 Fox 36

    Ok makes sense - with a bit less travel, I'd want a bit more ramp up.

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    2015 Fox 36

    How many spare volume spacers did you have in the box? Mine came with one blue and three orange ones. I'm just wondering do I have only one blue installed or maybe more as I have to lower the pressure to 50-55PSI to use almost full 160mm travel no matter how hard I'm smashing the bike (weight 185lbs)

  49. #249
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    Quote Originally Posted by 8 1/2 View Post
    How many spare volume spacers did you have in the box? Mine came with one blue and three orange ones. I'm just wondering do I have only one blue installed or maybe more as I have to lower the pressure to 50-55PSI to use almost full 160mm travel no matter how hard I'm smashing the bike (weight 185lbs)
    With my 650b 170mm fork I got 1 blue and 4 orange in the box and 1 blue installed from the factory in the fork.

  50. #250
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    Quote Originally Posted by bkrupp View Post
    I think they do not have damper service instructions anymore, and recommend having dampers serviced in house.

    Call fox if you are in the US and they should be able to sell the part number you need, or tell you to order it through a shop.
    Hope this is not true for 2015.. if required to go through a shop now, or mail fox for "in house" service.. that would be a pretty weak move to pull the drawings. A main reason to get a fox in the past was not needing to go through a shop, and having parts and information readily available so there's no down time for riders
    ...

  51. #251
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    Quote Originally Posted by Deerhill View Post
    Hope this is not true for 2015.. if required to go through a shop now, or mail fox for "in house" service.. that would be a pretty weak move to pull the drawings. A main reason to get a fox in the past was not needing to go through a shop, and having parts and information readily available so there's no down time for riders
    Other than the different weight of oil and valuing differences the service for the damper will be identical to the old 36's RC2 damper that is on the fox service site.
    Last edited by Rick Draper; 09-22-2014 at 12:48 PM.

  52. #252
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    2015 Fox 36

    Quote Originally Posted by 8 1/2 View Post
    How many spare volume spacers did you have in the box? Mine came with one blue and three orange ones. I'm just wondering do I have only one blue installed or maybe more as I have to lower the pressure to 50-55PSI to use almost full 160mm travel no matter how hard I'm smashing the bike (weight 185lbs)
    That's what mine came with. 3 orange (although maybe 4?? I'll have to check) and 1 blue in a bag. Fork had 1 blue installed from the factory. I have a Float 26" version 160 travel.

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  53. #253
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    Quote Originally Posted by LCW View Post
    That's what mine came with. 3 orange (although maybe 4?? I'll have to check) and 1 blue in a bag. Fork had 1 blue installed from the factory. I have a Float 26" version 160 travel.
    You're right! There were 4 orange spacers after all..

  54. #254
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    Hi guys, my 36s arrive tomorrow so looking for a bit of advice on setup as this will be my first fully adjustable front fork that I'll be having to setup from scratch.

    They're replacing a set of X-Fusion Sweeps which I just haven't got on with on my Spitty since day one.

    Pau11y I'm quite interested in how your running yours as I'm about 190 kitted up ready to ride as well. What I'm looking to setup is so that I get good traction on the rough stuff like roots and rocks not diving in to the travel under braking like the Sweeps seem to do but also retain plushness and still be able to take medium sized hits easily.

    Its 160 650b forks I've got coming, should be a good pairing with my CCDBA.
    Last edited by ultimateweevil; 09-25-2014 at 01:45 PM.

  55. #255
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    My setup is the following for a 200 lb RTR weight. All clicks are from wide open/full fast.

    62 PSI
    Low Speed 4 clicks
    High Speed 4 clicks
    Rebound 7 clicks

    Rode/raced Mammoth Kamikaze last weekend on this setup with massive bomb holes in every corner (18-30" braking bumps) and a few 5' drops and only bottomed a few times.

  56. #256
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    2015 Fox 36

    What are you running for volume spacers?

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  57. #257
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    So forks arrived and the shop had sent 170s instead of 160s. Called to get them swapped and now it turns out Mojo the UK distributor have no 650b 160s in stock so have to wait about 2 weeks to get them now. To say I'm annoyed is an understatement!

  58. #258
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    Quote Originally Posted by LCW View Post
    What are you running for volume spacers?
    Whatever came stock. Have not felt the need to mess with it at all.

  59. #259
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    Quote Originally Posted by ultimateweevil View Post
    So forks arrived and the shop had sent 170s instead of 160s. Called to get them swapped and now it turns out Mojo the UK distributor have no 650b 160s in stock so have to wait about 2 weeks to get them now. To say I'm annoyed is an understatement!
    Why not just lower it to 160? Should be adjustable pretty easily.

  60. #260
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    Re: 2015 Fox 36

    Quote Originally Posted by Salespunk View Post
    Why not just lower it to 160? Should be adjustable pretty easily.
    Exactly.
    170 has a better travel adjustment in my opinion.
    170 can be lowered to 130
    While 160 to 110.
    In this 36 I would reather have option to go to 170 or 180 if needed in the future.

    Edit: 170 can indeed be raised to 180...
    There are basically 2 versions.
    110-160
    130-180
    Each has 6 holes = 6 possible travel options. 0 - 5 spacers are used based on the travel.

  61. #261
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    2015 Fox 36

    Plus the 170 can be raised to 180 as well

  62. #262
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    Not sure how easy it is tbh and paying nearly £900 for forks I'd rather get the ones I'd ordered. I'm sure it'll be worth the wait! I just felt like a kid who'd been expecting the latest toy at Xmas to open it and it's something else, I even left work early today after the Mrs text me to say they'd been delivered, so imagine my disappointment.

    It's a good job I've not sold on the Sweeps yet so I can still ride the bike in the meantime, so it's not all bad.

  63. #263
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    Re: 2015 Fox 36

    Quote Originally Posted by ultimateweevil View Post
    Not sure how easy it is tbh and paying nearly £900 for forks I'd rather get the ones I'd ordered. I'm sure it'll be worth the wait! I just felt like a kid who'd been expecting the latest toy at Xmas to open it and it's something else, I even left work early today after the Mrs text me to say they'd been delivered, so imagine my disappointment.

    It's a good job I've not sold on the Sweeps yet so I can still ride the bike in the meantime, so it's not all bad.
    Man, you already have the better option of the 2. Just go ahead and lower it to 160...

  64. #264
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    Quote Originally Posted by jazzanova View Post
    Man, you already have the better option of the 2. Just go ahead and lower it to 160...
    Ditto. I've thought more than once that I should have done this, and gone with a 170 lowered to 160...
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  65. #265
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    2015 Fox 36

    Yeah if/when I go with a 160mm bike I'll go with the 180 fork. Right now I've got the 150 RC2 29er lowered to 140 for the hardtail.

  66. #266
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    Well it's already on it's way back so I guess I'll have to wait for the 160 now anyway. Wish I'd posted earlier now

  67. #267
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    Just finished my build today, going to dial it in tomorrow
    20mm Chris King Hub and a 203mm Saint rotor
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2015 Fox 36-img_20140926_151215.jpg  

    Last edited by Starkhünd; 09-26-2014 at 10:10 PM.

  68. #268
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    Quote Originally Posted by Starkhünd View Post
    Just finished my build today, going to dial it in tomorrow
    20mm Chris King Hub and a 203mm Saint rotor
    Nice ...which adpater did you used for the saint and 203mm rotor ?

  69. #269
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    It's a Shimano
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2015 Fox 36-img_20140927_075452.jpg  


  70. #270
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    Quote Originally Posted by Starkhünd View Post
    It's a Shimano
    ...I was looking at the Fox Kit 820-09-009 but if the Shimano does the job

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  72. #272
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    Hi,

    Considering the Fox 36 and the Pike for my Bronson. Leaning towards the Fox at the moment because it seems like a better fork for descending and the AtC height is a bit shorter than an equivalent Pike; installing a 160 Fox will keep me closer to stock geometry than the 160 Pike will.

    Anyway, just a couple questions:

    1. How annoying is the lack of quick axle release? I transport my bike in the trunk of my car so the front wheel comes off frequently. I don't mind keeping an allen key in my riding pack but do the pinch bolts need to be evenly or accurately torqued or anything like that?

    2. Climbing? I have the Fox 34 CTD now and I do use the climbing switch on long, sustained climbs. I don't use it on quick, mid-trail climbs. Looking at the fork, it appears that the LSC adjustment is on top of the fork leg and easily accessible. Is it equally effective to just dial in say 10 more clicks of LSC for a long, sustained climb?

    Thanks

  73. #273
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    I have a XO1 34 ring on my bike and use it to pedal up some pretty long steep roads, 6-8 km for periodization training purposes until my Canaondale quick carbon comes in . I use the climb switch on my shock, but the front end is firm when doing so, HSC 11 - LSC 18 - Rebound 5. I switch from seated 1min 3/10 energy to hard out of the saddle push 8/10 90 sec sets. I am not a suspension guru by any means but I have been on Talas set ups and I feel I am not missing out. I haven't fiddled with the dials while climbing to answer your question, but this week I will. I spoke with Avalanche many times before I made my purchase, and they urged me to stay away from Talas forks, They said the volume that the Talas needs takes away performance of your fork, a proper set up fork you should not need a Talas set up. Avalanche will wait for Fox to come up with an update if one is needed before they invest in one for the new 36. The Pike has been out on the market for awhile now and is a great fork, but it does have it's flaws, Phone Ava and they will go through it in much better detail then I'm describing, I am new to the sport and consulted with them before my build. their advice was to go with a 36. Currently they do not offer a cartridge kit for the fork, there is one for the Pike, which they say drastically improves the performance.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2015 Fox 36-img_20140926_151215.jpg  


  74. #274
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmrocks View Post
    Hi,

    Considering the Fox 36 and the Pike for my Bronson. Leaning towards the Fox at the moment because it seems like a better fork for descending and the AtC height is a bit shorter than an equivalent Pike; installing a 160 Fox will keep me closer to stock geometry than the 160 Pike will.

    Anyway, just a couple questions:

    1. How annoying is the lack of quick axle release? I transport my bike in the trunk of my car so the front wheel comes off frequently. I don't mind keeping an allen key in my riding pack but do the pinch bolts need to be evenly or accurately torqued or anything like that?

    2. Climbing? I have the Fox 34 CTD now and I do use the climbing switch on long, sustained climbs. I don't use it on quick, mid-trail climbs. Looking at the fork, it appears that the LSC adjustment is on top of the fork leg and easily accessible. Is it equally effective to just dial in say 10 more clicks of LSC for a long, sustained climb?

    Thanks
    Lack of QR is not a huge deal to me. Takes an extra 60 seconds to pull the front wheel, but just keep a 5 mm in your trunk and you should be good. The lack of a climb switch does bother me a little, but only because I can't use it when trying to out sprint my buddies up paved roads. Other than that it has been a non issue for me.

  75. #275
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    Ran the Pike for a few months then switched to the Fox 36 TALAS 29er 160mm. Happy with the switch. I think the TALAS is even more helpful than the climb switch on steep climbs as its not just about pedal bob but also the geometry change you get dropping the front. Fork has a great feel in either setting. Adding LSC is easy for long approaches if you want. The floating axel doesn't take long but you need to be meticulous about having it settled and not over tightening the pinch bolts. Adjustability of the RC2 was easier for me to dial than the Pike.
    Overall both great forks, the features and feel of the Fox win for me but it's close. I use a hitch rack.
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  76. #276
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    2015 Fox 36

    QR is a non-issue for myself. Took the wheel off the 34 about a dozen times in the 2 years I had it. Swap tires/swap brakes/swap wheels/new 36. I hitch rack the bike, but can lay it in the back if need be.

    34 TALAS RLC I used the lockout thing less than six times during my ownership.

    According to the suspension wizards the TALAS 5 cart is FLOAT smooth now. No sticky ness.
    I'll be picking up and installing my 36 tomorrow. Hopefully get a night ride in on it too!

  77. #277
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    2015 Fox 36

    Quote Originally Posted by cmrocks View Post
    Hi,

    Considering the Fox 36 and the Pike for my Bronson. Leaning towards the Fox at the moment because it seems like a better fork for descending and the AtC height is a bit shorter than an equivalent Pike; installing a 160 Fox will keep me closer to stock geometry than the 160 Pike will.

    Anyway, just a couple questions:

    1. How annoying is the lack of quick axle release? I transport my bike in the trunk of my car so the front wheel comes off frequently. I don't mind keeping an allen key in my riding pack but do the pinch bolts need to be evenly or accurately torqued or anything like that?

    2. Climbing? I have the Fox 34 CTD now and I do use the climbing switch on long, sustained climbs. I don't use it on quick, mid-trail climbs. Looking at the fork, it appears that the LSC adjustment is on top of the fork leg and easily accessible. Is it equally effective to just dial in say 10 more clicks of LSC for a long, sustained climb?

    Thanks
    If you're worried about climbing and lack of QR - the 36 is probably not for you. A 34 or a Pike would be a better choice.

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  78. #278
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    The FLOAT 36 RC2 is the hype! Just got back from my first ride on it. I need to spend some proper time setting the fork up, but it feels good so far.

  79. #279
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    I have a Giant Trance Adv SX which has the Fox 27.5 34mm Talas 140/160.

    What are the chances a 36mm 27.5 Talas Rc2 130/160 would fit as an upgrade? If 'yes' ...forgive my ignorance but is it simply an easy swap over or will I Giant/steerer issues I need to address? (I gather the 15mm axle I have is no problem with the conversion kit)

  80. #280
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    Quote Originally Posted by lucifuge View Post
    I have a Giant Trance Adv SX which has the Fox 27.5 34mm Talas 140/160.

    What are the chances a 36mm 27.5 Talas Rc2 130/160 would fit as an upgrade? If 'yes' ...forgive my ignorance but is it simply an easy swap over or will I Giant/steerer issues I need to address? (I gather the 15mm axle I have is no problem with the conversion kit)
    There will be no issue at all.
    It is an easy swap...remove your old one, cut the new one at the same steerer length if you feel ok with old length and that's all.
    The 15mm axle wont be a problem , new Talas comes with conversion 15/20mm kit. (15mm is mounted by default)

  81. #281
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    cheers

    The standard 34mm is a big improvement over previous versions, BUT small bump compliance is poor. With a hand injury I want that part resolved.

    Quote Originally Posted by kodo28 View Post
    There will be no issue at all.
    It is an easy swap...remove your old one, cut the new one at the same steerer length if you feel ok with old length and that's all.
    The 15mm axle wont be a problem , new Talas comes with conversion 15/20mm kit. (15mm is mounted by default)

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    VvV

  83. #283
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    Quote Originally Posted by lucifuge View Post
    cheers

    The standard 34mm is a big improvement over previous versions, BUT small bump compliance is poor. With a hand injury I want that part resolved.
    I believe your Trance SX has OverDrive2 (1-1/2<->1-1/4 taper)steertube

    You'll need a new upper headset cup and a new stem to go with the FOX 36 standard taper (1-1/2<->1-1/8)

  84. #284
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    Quote Originally Posted by LCW View Post
    If you're worried about climbing and lack of QR - the 36 is probably not for you. A 34 or a Pike would be a better choice.
    I cranked up the LSC on my 36 the other day for a big out of the saddle pavement climb and it was great. I was thought I was going to miss the lockout as well, but it was a non issue.

  85. #285
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    Easy solution. Get to the top of a climb and back off the LSC to your set point.

    This season I've been playing around with suspension more so than before, so I record settings and changes into my iPhone.

    Lock-out levers are for people trying to win races.

  86. #286
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    Quote Originally Posted by PUNKY View Post
    I believe your Trance SX has OverDrive2 (1-1/2<->1-1/4 taper)steertube

    You'll need a new upper headset cup and a new stem to go with the FOX 36 standard taper (1-1/2<->1-1/8)
    Right forgot to mention the upper head bearing ...for the stem, you don't need a new one to swap, just need a shim adapter...

  87. #287
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    Quote Originally Posted by kodo28 View Post
    Right forgot to mention the upper head bearing ...for the stem, you don't need a new one to swap, just need a shim adapter...
    Please don't. Just buy a new stem. $100 is cheap insurance.

  88. #288
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    2015 Fox 36

    Quote Originally Posted by lucifuge View Post
    I have a Giant Trance Adv SX which has the Fox 27.5 34mm Talas 140/160.

    What are the chances a 36mm 27.5 Talas Rc2 130/160 would fit as an upgrade? If 'yes' ...forgive my ignorance but is it simply an easy swap over or will I Giant/steerer issues I need to address? (I gather the 15mm axle I have is no problem with the conversion kit)
    Overdrive 2? You'll need a different top bearing...

  89. #289
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    Quote Originally Posted by LCW View Post
    My next step will be to drop a few psi more (68 down to 65) and trying 2 blue spacers (total 15.2cc) instead of the 1 orange (10.8cc). I felt a bit more ramp up with slightly lower initial pressure would dial it in just that tiny bit more. From there on, just a matter of tweaking the LSC for different conditions.

    This fork is awesome.
    LCW... How did 2 x BLUE work out? I just installed a 27.5 160mm on my Bronson and totally digging this fork. Had the basic 34 Evolution previously.

  90. #290
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    2015 Fox 36

    I'm running 2 blue spacers and prefer it over 1 orange spacer. Just a bit more progressiveness of the air spring curve. Can run a bit more sag and not bottom out. Small bump compliance is improved and bike is super controlled through chunky rock gardens. Really digging it this way. Should have tried this sooner!

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  91. #291
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    Quote Originally Posted by LCW View Post
    I'm running 2 blue spacers and prefer it over 1 orange spacer. Just a bit more progressiveness of the air spring curve. Can run a bit more sag and not bottom out. Small bump compliance is improved and bike is super controlled through chunky rock gardens. Really digging it this way. Should have tried this sooner!
    Thanks...I'm gonna give 1 x ORANGE a try and see how that goes. Will toy with 2 x BLUE after that. Just need to get my 32MM socket un-chamfered (e.g. ground down flat).

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    The crown to axle height is lower on the 36 than a 34. Most EWS racers are running the 36 at 170mm. I would try it at 170mm

  93. #293
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    Quote Originally Posted by InstigatorX View Post
    Thanks...I'm gonna give 1 x ORANGE a try and see how that goes. Will toy with 2 x BLUE after that. Just need to get my 32MM socket un-chamfered (e.g. ground down flat).
    the 2 x blue spacers is working great for me so far. In fact, I might notched it up a bit for a bit more ramp up, with 1 x blue + 1 x orange.

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  94. #294
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    Sent mine back today to check for loose bushings
    friends don't let friends Fred

  95. #295
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    I am getting wicked brake dive with this fork. I'm running 1 x ORANGE spacer and anywhere from 66 - 83 PSI (trying to figure out if sag is playing a role). I've tried with LSC and HSC fully closed (clockwise) and open. I'm running a simple test on the street where I hit front brake really hard and it compresses way more than my basic Evolution fork.

    On a side note, I had a big wipe out last week where I can't remember 10 mins before crash and about 50 mins after (after riding another mile or so down more singletrack to my car, loading bike, and driving myself to emergency room...don't remember any of that). I have the vague recollection of feeling a real good landing and then the crash...and I think it was the fork diving on me and launching me or something.

    Am I missing something on my setup? More spacers? Too little oil? Fork is/was brand new.

  96. #296
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    Quote Originally Posted by InstigatorX View Post
    I am getting wicked brake dive with this fork. I'm running 1 x ORANGE spacer and anywhere from 66 - 83 PSI (trying to figure out if sag is playing a role). I've tried with LSC and HSC fully closed (clockwise) and open. I'm running a simple test on the street where I hit front brake really hard and it compresses way more than my basic Evolution fork.

    On a side note, I had a big wipe out last week where I can't remember 10 mins before crash and about 50 mins after (after riding another mile or so down more singletrack to my car, loading bike, and driving myself to emergency room...don't remember any of that). I have the vague recollection of feeling a real good landing and then the crash...and I think it was the fork diving on me and launching me or something.

    Am I missing something on my setup? More spacers? Too little oil? Fork is/was brand new.
    Body Weight?

    Picture of bike?

    Could be rear shock settings, my 36 doesn't dive at all, has lots of midstroke support. One of the key features of the fork IMO. I'm 180 run 68 psi, 9 click from open compression, barely any hsc
    friends don't let friends Fred

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    Quote Originally Posted by Yody View Post
    Body Weight?

    Picture of bike?

    Could be rear shock settings, my 36 doesn't dive at all, has lots of midstroke support. One of the key features of the fork IMO. I'm 180 run 68 psi, 9 click from open compression, barely any hsc
    I'm about 210 geared up. Bike is Bronson with Float X CTD rear shock. Went to bike store between last msg and now. Didn't think there was anything wrong with fork. Suggested mid point on HSC and 1-2 clicks from closed on LSC. Also thought my front brakes had too much stopping power for the setup. Suggested filing some of pad off to shave some stopping power off. I am running Guide RSC with 203mm rotor up front. The owner\tech seems to know his stuff.

    Any thoughts?

  98. #298
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    Quote Originally Posted by InstigatorX View Post
    I'm about 210 geared up. Bike is Bronson with Float X CTD rear shock. Went to bike store between last msg and now. Didn't think there was anything wrong with fork. Suggested mid point on HSC and 1-2 clicks from closed on LSC. Also thought my front brakes had too much stopping power for the setup. Suggested filing some of pad off to shave some stopping power off. I am running Guide RSC with 203mm rotor up front. The owner\tech seems to know his stuff.

    Any thoughts?
    If you're that heavy (on a correct pump guage) I'd say you should be running near 75-80PSI. The spring is whats supposed to hold your weight and then use the compression to dial things in. Having to turn your low speed compression that high is no good and shows something is way off.

    Another problem is how you're determining dive. Parking lot brake slam trials is not correct way. Need to go ride the bike on a good trail a few times and find key spots that replicate different scenarios. First run your low speed all the way off and get a decent sag/psi setting. Then dial in LSC. Any bike will dive if you weight the frontend and then slam on the brakes. I'm running the new Guide RSC's as well with 7/6" combo
    friends don't let friends Fred

  99. #299
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    Make sure your rebound on your shock isn't set ridiculously fast or something incorrect (spring rate way too high) and making the rear unload too quickly. Im not a fan of slow rebound settings but you definitely don't want the shock wide open on rebound

    You might need another air spring token, but only if you're using all the travel way too often. Also heavier riders need more air volume for more mid support. Adding a bunch of spacers you would end up dropping the psi which will make it more compliant but not bottom out as easy. You need more volume it sounds like, for more mid stroke support. Then dial in some HSC to help with bottoming.
    friends don't let friends Fred

  100. #300
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    having similar problem - maybe after a hard bottoming out, or maybe after letting fork get cold (28 °F)?

    "Stretch the fork fully extended and cycle within 1-5mm of full extension to remove air from the negative chamber."

    can you clarify these directions please? I should let all air out, then stretch to full extension, then push back down all the way and back up again to within 1-5 mm of full extension - should I be holding valve open when cycling back down and close it off when stretching it back up? How many cycles do I do? I tried it once and did not get the air out of negative chamber - should I remove top cap? thanks!!

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