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  1. #1
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    2014 Fox fork oil volumes

    Does anyone know where to find this information? The usual Fox website with oil volumes service data only goes up to 2012/13.

    Have already emailed Fox and no reply yet.

    Specifically I need to know the oil volumes for the 2014 Talas 34 Evolution CTD 160/140 (non-FIT cartridge). I am apprehensive about using the older model Talas data because of the new Talas system in the 2014 model.

    Thankyou.

  2. #2
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    The changes in the Talas cartridge do not effect the lower leg oil chambers at all. The changes are entirely within the upper tube assembly which you shouldn't be taking apart for basic oil changes. You are fine to use the 2013 oil volumes.

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    Thanks for the confirmation Matty, much appreciated

  4. #4
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    Just for everyone's reference, for the 2014 Talas it appears Fox no longer uses the aluminum crush washer on the air side of the lowers. They have reverted to the nylon crush washers used in the Floats. Shame I went and bought a whole dozen of the aluminum washers before doing the service and they weren't cheap!

    Aside from that the forks are heaps smoother now after first service, better than from new. The oil was not underfilled as some reviews would suggest but rather the wiper seals didn't have much grease in them.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matty F View Post
    The changes in the Talas cartridge do not effect the lower leg oil chambers at all. The changes are entirely within the upper tube assembly which you shouldn't be taking apart for basic oil changes. You are fine to use the 2013 oil volumes.
    I'm getting a lot of stiction in my 2014 talas- it sounds like if i just want to change the oil in the lowers to try to eliminate that stiction, i don't even need to touch the talas cartridge, right?

    this would also mean i would only need the fox float fluid and not the 10wt oil since that's used for the older model talas cartridge, correct?

  6. #6
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    You just need to change the oil in the lower legs; dont need to open up the Talas cartridge.

    Need 10W oil in the lower legs. 30ml in the damper side and 15ml in the air spring side.

    Also need fox float fluid in the wiper seal foam rings and also some very light suspension grease for the wiper seals themselves.

    Suggest have some spare crush washers ready in case the ones you have aren't reuseable; you need the standard size for the air spring side and the large ones for the damper side; both are the nylon type.


    Quote Originally Posted by xeren View Post
    I'm getting a lot of stiction in my 2014 talas- it sounds like if i just want to change the oil in the lowers to try to eliminate that stiction, i don't even need to touch the talas cartridge, right?

    this would also mean i would only need the fox float fluid and not the 10wt oil since that's used for the older model talas cartridge, correct?

  7. #7
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    thank you! never serviced a fork before, but this is starting to make more and more sense and seems very doable

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    Quick update, i spoke with a Fox Rep and they told me on my 2014 Talas 34 CTD Evo, i should be using the following for an oil change:

    30cc of 20wt Gold oil in each leg (i think this is what is being used on the 2015 models as well). Since the new talas cartridges are closed and smaller, they can handle the 30cc of this thicker stuff. From what I understand, it is not to be used on the 2013 and prior open bath dampers. Part # 02-030-010

    FORK- New 20wt. Gold Bath Oil | Bike Help Center | FOX

    they said i wouldn't need float fluid for the rings- that the new 20wt gold is tacky enough to serve both purposes

    34mm seal (if needed), comes with crush washers #803-00-614

    10mm nylon crush washer for non-damper side #241-01-002-C

    13mm nylon crush washer for damper side # 241-01-011

  9. #9
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    xeren, thanks this is good info. Do you know if the oil levels for the factory is the same as the Evo model?

    I would like to change the oil in my 2014 Talas 34 27.5 Factory. If so 30mm of the 20wt oil in each leg?

    Is any oil needed to be added from the top in the air chamber. In the past it was noted as 5mm of the float fluild, or perhaps as you noted the same 20wt oil could be used???

    Thanks for the help.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rideitall View Post
    xeren, thanks this is good info. Do you know if the oil levels for the factory is the same as the Evo model?

    I would like to change the oil in my 2014 Talas 34 27.5 Factory. If so 30mm of the 20wt oil in each leg?

    Is any oil needed to be added from the top in the air chamber. In the past it was noted as 5mm of the float fluild, or perhaps as you noted the same 20wt oil could be used???

    Thanks for the help.
    if you mean the talas side that might need 5mm of oil, it's now a sealed cartridge that is not supposed to be opened by the consumer (apparently), so nothing to do there.

    i would assume it's 30mm in each leg for the factory version as well, but i only asked fox about the Evo. i would just give Fox a call and ask them. the longest i've had to wait on hold for a knowledgeable person was like 2 minutes

  11. #11
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    Thanks for the response. I gave Fox support a call to verify the volumes. Don't want to mess it up. The response was 30cc in each leg, through the bottom. No need to add anything from the top as the oil from the bottom is able to get everywhere it needs to go. Also the 2014+, uses the Fox 20wt gold oil.

    I wonder if there are other oils that can be used. I used to use a synthetic motorcycle fork oil in my old Marzocchi forks. Bought it by the litre, was cheaper than the Marzocchi spec and was supposed to be much better.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by rideitall View Post
    Thanks for the response. I gave Fox support a call to verify the volumes. Don't want to mess it up. The response was 30cc in each leg, through the bottom. No need to add anything from the top as the oil from the bottom is able to get everywhere it needs to go. Also the 2014+, uses the Fox 20wt gold oil.

    I wonder if there are other oils that can be used. I used to use a synthetic motorcycle fork oil in my old Marzocchi forks. Bought it by the litre, was cheaper than the Marzocchi spec and was supposed to be much better.
    I looked into the Fox Gold 20wt but it's $45 at LBS, planning to check if it's any cheaper at moto store.

    For lowers, yes many people use synthetic engine oil, but Fox doesn't officially approve.

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    Quote Originally Posted by fsrxc View Post
    I looked into the Fox Gold 20wt but it's $45 at LBS, may check if there's much difference at moto store. For lowers, yes many people use synthetic engine oil, but Fox doesn't officially approve.
    $45??!? that's highway robbery

    it's $12 at most places, i got mine at jenson i believe

    Fox Fork Oil 20wt. Gold 32oz.

    yeah, even my full synthetic motor oil i use in my car is only $7, but i figured until other people recommend a better option, i'm not going to bother putting a whole lot of time into figuring out a better option just to save $5.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by rideitall View Post
    xeren, thanks this is good info. Do you know if the oil levels for the factory is the same as the Evo model?

    I would like to change the oil in my 2014 Talas 34 27.5 Factory. If so 30mm of the 20wt oil in each leg?

    Is any oil needed to be added from the top in the air chamber. In the past it was noted as 5mm of the float fluild, or perhaps as you noted the same 20wt oil could be used???

    Thanks for the help.

    Talas 15ml air spring leg. 30 ml damper side. Float is 30 ml both sides. Don't add any oil to air spring in a talas.

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    Quote Originally Posted by teK-- View Post
    Talas 15ml air spring leg. 30 ml damper side. Float is 30 ml both sides. Don't add any oil to air spring in a talas.
    nope, not on the 2014's. the air spring leg now has more room with the smaller 2014+ talas cartridge. 30ml both legs, confirmed with 2 different Fox techs

  16. #16
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    Thanks not sure who to believe now It was also a Fox tech who told me 30/15 for my 2014 Talas. I've been using 15 last couple of services seens to be no ill effect so far but wonder if there could be an improvement with 30.

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    Quote Originally Posted by teK-- View Post
    Thanks not sure who to believe now It was also a Fox tech who told me 30/15 for my 2014 Talas. I've been using 15 last couple of services seens to be no ill effect so far but wonder if there could be an improvement with 30.
    Is yours the Factory or Evo Talas? I wonder if it's different?
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  18. #18
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    Related post: I have a 2012(or 13?) Talas 34 29er fork (140-110mm). I weigh 210-215 suited up to ride. Fox says I should have 180 psi in the fork air chamber. When I put that much pressure in, while in Descend mode and at 140mm, the fork doesn't budge. I have to go down to 50 psi to get the 20-25% sag level. That seems unsafe to me if it is supposed to be at 180.

    When I let air out of the valve. I got sprayed with blue oil. Anyway, I had been noticing that the fork was riding harsh so that is why I started messing with the air pressure. It's been ridden about a year which is about 120 hours.

    Thoughts? Similar experiences?
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by LaCostaClydesdale View Post
    Related post: I have a 2012(or 13?) Talas 34 29er fork (140-110mm). I weigh 210-215 suited up to ride. Fox says I should have 180 psi in the fork air chamber. When I put that much pressure in, while in Descend mode and at 140mm, the fork doesn't budge. I have to go down to 50 psi to get the 20-25% sag level. That seems unsafe to me if it is supposed to be at 180.

    When I let air out of the valve. I got sprayed with blue oil. Anyway, I had been noticing that the fork was riding harsh so that is why I started messing with the air pressure. It's been ridden about a year which is about 120 hours.

    Thoughts? Similar experiences?
    try entering your fork's code into the Ridefox website to get the correct setup manual. I have the 2014 Talas34 which has the high-pressure air spring (I'm 140lbs and using 125psi), but AFAIK the -2013 uses lower pressures (max 120psi I think). 50psi seems low for your weight but maybe 80-ish, so make sure you're checking sag with the compression and rebound damping wide open, and bounce to settle it before setting the o-ring.

    When I got my bike the fork was harsh even at low pressures, so I removed the lowers to drain/refill the oil, and there was a big puff of pressure released, then once I put them back together the sag and pressure was more normal. So, if yours are due a service, the lowers may have gotten pressurized, which will throw off your sag and pressure measurements.

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