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  1. #1
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    2013 Marzocchi 55 RC3 EVO V2 TI

    Any one with info on the 2013 fork. I am seriously considering it for my 2013 sworks enduro. Mainly for the bike parks but wounded how it would do for every day riding too. They seemed to have came a long way from the past couple of years and it has gotten a good review from bike Radar last year and it made the DIRT 100 this year. Please advise with you comments

  2. #2
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    It is tough to find good info out there on newer Marzocchi forks. I have the 2012 55 CR, and I'm not really sure how similar it is to the RC3. All I can say so far about the 55CR after a solid 1.5 months of riding is that its a beast of a fork. I take it on cross country rides and it has a great platform that limits effort induced bob. My typical rides are very technical east coast style riding and it is great here as well. Stays into the upper 3rd of travel when on flat and technical, mid travel when things point down and are technical. I can get full travel on a typical bottom out event like a bad transition from a rock roller, drop to flat, etc.

    I used it this weekend very heavily at the Plattekill enduro test event. I did not come away wanting more or less fork. I also took it on a couple DH laps after the event, and I had no clue my endorphin with that fork would make that terrain as rideable as it did. not sure if this helps but so far I am sold on newer Marzocchi forks.

  3. #3
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    This may not be relevant to the 2013 model, but I do own a 2011 55 RC3 Ti. I can honestly say it's the best feeling fork I've used. Great small bump sensitivity, good mid stroke support and really really plush. I've raced my first 2 enduro races with it and it just keeps on giving. My past forks were a Lyrik Coil and a TALAS 36.

  4. #4
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    i have a 2012 55. fantastic fork, super plush but ime the rebound needs to be slowed way down or it will bounce you right off the trail.

  5. #5
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    How did you accomplish slowing down your rebound to a desireable level? On my 55CR, at my ideal air pressure it rebounds too fast with it dialed all the way to slow. I was thinking of running 10wt oil?

  6. #6
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    I have the 2011 and weigh 160lbs, have it set to the softest settings and about 4-5 clicks from full slow on the rebound (if I recall). Simply the best fork I've ridden, period. Everyone I ride with will hop on it for a loop around the block and their eyes pop with suprise after they ride it. I ride it hard doing downhill too and it's still wonderful. Never had any issues.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by LaXCarp View Post
    How did you accomplish slowing down your rebound to a desireable level? On my 55CR, at my ideal air pressure it rebounds too fast with it dialed all the way to slow. I was thinking of running 10wt oil?
    i managed to get it tuned with just the knob. i was really surprised, i stopped and cranked it way down, then had to stop a few more times to turn it down even more. it still may be a bit fast, have to give it another ride and see. if the knob alone cant do the trick maybe heavier oil will help.

  8. #8
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    66 rc3 evo ti. 180 and the stock spring and oil felt light to me. Went to a moto brand 10 wt and that helped a lot. It's been a solid fork since I bought it over 1 yr ago
    Just another redneck with a bike

  9. #9
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    yeah, stock springs are pretty light, even at 150 the stock spring in my 55 felt soft.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by ski1970 View Post
    Any one with info on the 2013 fork. I am seriously considering it for my 2013 sworks enduro. Mainly for the bike parks but wounded how it would do for every day riding too. They seemed to have came a long way from the past couple of years and it has gotten a good review from bike Radar last year and it made the DIRT 100 this year. Please advise with you comments
    I have the 2012 ti evo. Put it this way - it is heavy but is soo good that I am looking at every other component on my bike to save weight so I can keep the fork. I race gravity enduro and last season the first race I did on the fork was the first race I won. On the weekend I was doing downhill runs and at the bottom of every run couldn't stop talking about the fork and how it blew my mind. I run a ccdb air just likeithe s-works and the two compliment one another beautifully. For trail riding its a lot of fork - no two ways about it. If you ride gnarly rocky trails then its awesome but if your trails and tight and groomed - you'll be aware that you have a big fork up front.
    Another reason i'm finding it impossible to let this fork go is that its bombproof reliable. If I was to go on a riding holiday and needed to know that my fork would be 100% reliable - this would be the fork. So therr u go - if you're a weight weenie walk away. If yiu want arguably the best performance fork / reliable fork on the market - dont think twice.

  11. #11
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    Great small bump sensitivity, good mid stroke support and really really plush. I've raced my first 2 enduro races with it and it just keeps on giving.

  12. #12
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    what year is yours EVETDMA

  13. #13
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    I have never read any significant bad comments online about the 2010 and later marz coil forks

    well, in my reading, some people had negative comments to say about notchyness caused by having to use the air assist. At ~200lb rider wt, I know this feeling; however, I think it is only felt in the parking lot not on the trail. Therefore, I do not consider it a real complaint. If the fork has sat un-ridden for a while, you can feel a bit of stiction before it breaks free then it feels its usual buttery self. It is strange because for how plush the fork is on the trail it can feel REALLY sticky compressing the fork while standing in the garage. After starting riding and getting the oil moving, i do not notice this and dont see it as a real drawback. Some people removed the foam ring in between the seals to help this. I did it on my 55 and not on my 66, and i really dont see it as mattering much either way.

    I have an '11 55rc3 ti and a '12 66 rc3 ti evo, so i dont have the year and model you are asking about, but everything I see indicates Marzocchi is only getting better and better these days. I would have no reservation recommending a '13 marz coil fork at all

    They may not be the best fork for a REALLY heavy rider since they dont have as much adjustment as an air fork, but they have quite a big range. You do need a lot of rebound damping as you start to use the air assist, but I'm still pretty far away from the end of range at my weight/setup (at my air levels, each click of rebound makes a big change)

    These forks have completely lived up to the crazy hype I read on this site before I bought them. As others said, its all about the plush initial stroke and amazing midstroke support where these pull way ahead of the competition. I'm literally charging lines that previously scared me away as well as cleaning some extended rough trails that had me fatigued and stopping for breaks on my float...so happy I made the jump to these 'zocchis

  14. #14
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    Hi fellas, great feedback here. Is this forks really hard for trail riding? Comparing to the Floats 36 RC, is only few grams difference.

    I have no doubt of the the DH capabilities but the UH side of things is what is stopping me!!!

    Like the OP, I ride an Enduro Sworks 2013 and the 34's are just rubbish.

  15. #15
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    (got it)
    Last edited by rshalit; 07-19-2013 at 06:37 AM.

  16. #16
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    Its a great trail fork but there is no getting away from it being heavy. If your riding is more trail oriented you may want to look at the new Pike.



    Quote Originally Posted by iguanabartola View Post
    Hi fellas, great feedback here. Is this forks really hard for trail riding? Comparing to the Floats 36 RC, is only few grams difference.

    I have no doubt of the the DH capabilities but the UH side of things is what is stopping me!!!

    Like the OP, I ride an Enduro Sworks 2013 and the 34's are just rubbish.

  17. #17
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    Don't have the 2013 but I did have the 2012 55 RC3 Ti. Great fork like everyone says. Very plush on smaller rocks and ledges, good midstroke support, and decent bottoming resistance. Lateral and fore/aft stiffness is on par with other 160 forks though maybe not quite as stiff as my new Fox Float 36 with tapered steer tube. Btw, that and the lighter weight are the only things I like better about the Fox.

    Regretting selling my '12 Marz for $350 bucks. I had it on my turner 5 spot and didn't think it was a bad trail fork. Overkill for many trails but not noticeably heavy, bobby, or awkward feeling. On the downs and in the gnar it was well worth whatever it gives up on tamer stuff for me.
    I will cause thee to ride upon the high places of the earth...
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  18. #18
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    Yep, that is what I did at the end. Now waiting for it to arrive. Can't wait to ride it.

    Quote Originally Posted by gravityfreaky View Post
    Its a great trail fork but there is no getting away from it being heavy. If your riding is more trail oriented you may want to look at the new Pike.

  19. #19
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    2013 Marzocchi 55 RC3 EVO V2 TI

    Edited !
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2013 Marzocchi 55 RC3 EVO V2 TI-imageuploadedbytapatalk1373321085.482819.jpg  

    Last edited by Hangtime; 07-22-2013 at 02:00 PM.

  20. #20
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    nice fork

    2013 55 RC3 EVO v.2 Ti fork - very nice! Just replaced 2012 Float 160/36 RLC, much nicer. Only 0.4 lb heavier.
    Last edited by rshalit; 07-19-2013 at 06:33 AM.

  21. #21
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    I'm in the market for Marzocchi 55 CR Switch TA 2011 R2C, and got a good offer for a black one with black stanchion...with 1 1/8 steerer.
    Anyone got this performance?
    Will I had any issue if put this to my tappered frame within an adapter?

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by b-kul View Post
    i managed to get it tuned with just the knob.
    I'm pretty sure that some of these comments should go in a different thread, as I believe the 55CR is an air-sprung fork? This thread is about the open bath/coil-sprung 55
    Last edited by rshalit; 07-14-2013 at 08:07 AM.

  23. #23
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    ball bearing

    didn't know about the tiny ball bearing under the spring preload cap - now I see it on Marzocchi's Blog site, which has a nice diagram of an 888, very similar to 55 RC3:

    The Marzocchi Workshop: RC3
    Last edited by rshalit; 07-14-2013 at 08:07 AM.

  24. #24
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    I am continuing this discussion of the 2013 Marzocchi 55 RC3 EVO v.2 Ti (170 x 35)mm open-bath/coil fork in the forum titled "Shocks and Suspension" because peeps are using this thread to talk about completely different fork types, some of which are air-sprung, etc., from the fork named in this thread's title. It is imperative that peeps be very specific about exactly which fork is being discussed, as each has very different performance characteristics, and some of the comments above are about completely different forks, including air-sprung types.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by rshalit View Post
    I'm pretty sure that some of these comments should go in a different thread, as I believe the 55CR is an air-sprung fork? This thread is about the open bath/coil-sprung 55
    that wasnt in regard to a cr.

  26. #26
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    If my Reply was made specifically to yours, it wasn't intended - perhaps my Display mode changed, not sure. At any rate (no pun intended) it's best to note the specific year and model of the fork, since each varies in specifics. I believe yours is a pre-2012/2013 55 with 160 mm travel? Your stock spring probably has a rating of 5.5 N/mm. The 2012 & 2013 170 mm forks come with 6.9 N/mm. For the 160 mm forks I was told by Marz that there are 4 different springs available.

  27. #27
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    I'm trying to service my 2014 RC3 Evo Ti V2 (170mm), and know for sure that I need to bleed the cartridge. I assume this is the RC3 cartridge?
    2013 Marzocchi 55 RC3 EVO V2 TI-20150606_171600.jpg

    How do I get this thing open? How do I service it? Can anyone help me out here? I assume it's similar to the TST cartridge I just serviced in my 55 Micro STA, but don't know for sure before I start trying to rip things apart.

    Any help is much appreciated. Thanks!

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisingrassia View Post
    I'm trying to service my 2014 RC3 Evo Ti V2 (170mm), and know for sure that I need to bleed the cartridge. I assume this is the RC3 cartridge?
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20150606_171600.jpg 
Views:	953 
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ID:	994034

    How do I get this thing open? How do I service it? Can anyone help me out here? I assume it's similar to the TST cartridge I just serviced in my 55 Micro STA, but don't know for sure before I start trying to rip things apart.

    Any help is much appreciated. Thanks!
    You're trying to bleed an open-bath cartridge?
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    You're trying to bleed an open-bath cartridge?
    No thanks to Marzocchi, I'm actually not familiar with what "open bath" means for this cartridge and how to service my fork. Can you assist me? Is it not like the TST cartridge, where I just need to get it open and fill it with oil and bleed the air?

    Then again, now that I think about it, is that what those 4 little holes are at the bottom of the cartridge? I had no clue this was an open bath fork. I just Googled that term (since it wasn't relevant for my 55 Micro STA).

    I assumed it was a bled cartridge because when I went to disassemble the fork, I followed the Tech Tuesday video of Marz tech releasing air pressure in the 44 fork. I assumed I needed to do the same with my fork. So I pushed in the air valve, but it just bled oil....and more oil.....and more.....and more. Which led me to believe the cartridge was full of oil. But perhaps it was just constantly pumping up oil from the lowers?

    So do all I really need to do is put the cartridge back in the lower, tighten the bottom nut, fill the lower with oil, and just pump it a bunch of times to get all the air out?

  30. #30
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    The TST is a closed cart, similar to Fox FIT and RS Charger. Those usually have to be bled and can get air in them.

    Yours should be an open bath damper. You can even get to the base-valve to revalve it, a feature of your fork (The red thing at the bottom), but it's an open bath damper, which means now there's air in it since it's sitting on your desk, but you are supposed to install it and either put a certain amount of oil, or fill it to a certain level. Cycle it a few times, verify the oil level (or disregard if instructions use oil volume) and the air naturally goes to the top, because air rises. It doesn't get air trapped in the damper, but the slightly negative is an open bath damper isn't quite as consistent as a closed damper in rough terrain. Assuming a properly valved open bath damper, this is a very slight different and usually not detectable, as your open bath damper has advantages such as better lubrication and ease of getting at that base-valve to do a revalve if necessary.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    The TST is a closed cart, similar to Fox FIT and RS Charger. Those usually have to be bled and can get air in them.

    Yours should be an open bath damper. You can even get to the base-valve to revalve it, a feature of your fork (The red thing at the bottom), but it's an open bath damper, which means now there's air in it since it's sitting on your desk, but you are supposed to install it and either put a certain amount of oil, or fill it to a certain level. Cycle it a few times, verify the oil level (or disregard if instructions use oil volume) and the air naturally goes to the top, because air rises. It doesn't get air trapped in the damper, but the slightly negative is an open bath damper isn't quite as consistent as a closed damper in rough terrain. Assuming a properly valved open bath damper, this is a very slight different and usually not detectable, as your open bath damper has advantages such as better lubrication and ease of getting at that base-valve to do a revalve if necessary.
    This all started when I was wanting to add a bit of air to the fork, so I took off the top cap and put in the black Marzocchi air adaptor. Since I had never done this before on a fork, I learned quickly that the adaptor should have been installed on the air pump first, and THEN put into the fork top. Oil started spurting out all over the place, to which I said, "great, I guess I need to bleed this now." Last night, I was completely unable to just let out air through the top valve, it did nothing but spew oil. Over. And over. And over.

    So in order to "re-bleed" the RC3 it seems like all I need to do is install it back in the fork and dump whatever volume of oil back into the fork lower and then cycle the cartridge a bunch of times (i.e. suck oil in, push air out). The Marz site says 100mL and 230mL of recommended oil, but don't identify which number goes to which leg; but I assume it's 230mL for the RC3 side and 100 for the air spring? That sound right?

    And if that's right, is the 230mL considering that the RC3 is already bled and fully cycled?

    Thanks for nothing, Marzocchi. Again. Good thing the MTBR community is so helpful to pick up your slack of providing service info.

  32. #32
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    That sounds correct.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    That sounds correct.
    Not exactly comforting

    Trying to figure out how to ensure I get the right amount of oil in the cartridge side if I have to bleed it still.

    And how do I know which leg is supposed to get 100mL and 230mL?

  34. #34
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    So I got this all done!!! Jesus Christ that was 200x easier than servicing my 55 Micro STA. Good lord.

    Quick question though. On the air spring side of the fork, does the spring attach at all to the fork other than the bottom allen bolt? I ask because as I compress the fork by hand, and let it back up to sitting position, it sounds like the spring rattles/moves inside the stanchion. The bottom allen bolt on bottom is at 10nM torque, but the top of the spring is essentially free, with just the top cap preload kind of "holding" the top of the spring in place. Is that right?

    I also learned that "pre-loading" a spring (turning to the (-) direction) INCREASES the spring compression. Didn't know that before. That opposite-ness is like accounting class all over again.

  35. #35
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    OK, I spoke too soon. Apparently I didn't reassemble the air spring side correctly, because there are two items that are just loose inside the stanchion. Tonight, I had an opportunity to take it all apart again and here's the culprits:
    2013 Marzocchi 55 RC3 EVO V2 TI-20150620_210933-1.jpg
    2013 Marzocchi 55 RC3 EVO V2 TI-20150620_210948-1.jpg
    2013 Marzocchi 55 RC3 EVO V2 TI-20150620_211037-1.jpg

    The two "loose" items are that c-clip, and that silver slider/button/bearing-esque thing. I went back to my Marzocchi exploded diagram, and can't figure out where the c-clip even goes, or where that silver bushing thing connects to. The silver bushing isn't even listed on my Marz diagram.

    Can anyone possibly provide info as to where the c-clip is exactly supposed to go, and does the silver bushing attach to something?

    The exploded diagram is great, but I can't recall exactly where the c-clip came from or how I disassembled it. Any tips much appreciated!!!

  36. #36
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    Please? Anyone???

  37. #37
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    If you call Marzocchi in BC they will have an answer for you. I've gotten great help from them. Not so much from the California guys.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hangtime View Post
    If you call Marzocchi in BC they will have an answer for you. I've gotten great help from them. Not so much from the California guys.
    I'm probably going to do just that today.

  39. #39
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    It's the circlip that holds the negative spring and negative spring plate in place in the stanchion isn't it?

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Draper View Post
    It's the circlip that holds the negative spring and negative spring plate in place in the stanchion isn't it?
    I'm not exactly sure WHERE to put them back in the fork though. I do remember taking them out to service the fork, I just can't remember where they fall in the re-assembly line. So does #52 go at the bottom of the stanchion? If so, where does the thin c-clip go that is in between #50 and #54 on that diagram?

  41. #41
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    So for those folks who may be reading this thread, here was the solution. I did call Alex @ Marz Canada (who has helped me previously on the 55 STA fork I was servicing) and he told me perfectly what to do.

    So if you look at the above pictures I posted, you also have to look inside the negative spring stanchion leg. The leg actually has TWO recesses. The top most recess (closest to the crown) holds the very thin c-clip that is in between #50 and #54. You put that c-clip in FIRST. Then if you look closely at that silver glider on the spring rod, it actually has a very non-descript notch all around the upper edge; this circular notch fits perfectly underneath the thin c-clip. Slide in the negative spring assembly from the bottom of the stanchion tube until that glider sits in the leg nice and firm. Then the notched c-clip #52 goes into the bottom of that stanchion leg recess to hold it all in place.

    BOOM! Done. Fork all put back together, ready to shred!!

    Thank god for MTBR and ethical Marz techs, because their service documentation sucks!
    Last edited by chrisingrassia; 06-24-2015 at 10:04 AM.

  42. #42
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    Hello,
    I know this is an old thread, but I need some help. I just bought one of the last Marz 55 rc3 evo v2 ti and after just two rides they make a clonking noise each time I use some of its travel. My old Fox Vans did that too from time to time and all I had to do was open them up and reposition the shrink tubing around the spring.
    So I would like to do the same thing with the Marz but I can't find a description how to do that.
    I would really appreciate if someone could tell me how to open up the fork so I can get to the spring. Thanks.

  43. #43
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    Remove aluminum knob on non drive side top of fork. Make sure not to lose the small ball bearing underneath. 24mm socket or large adjustable wrench to remove top cap. If there's a semi circular clip, use a flat blade screwdriver driver to slide out but I don't think it's on that side. Should be able to pull spring out with a little force. To replace storing when done press back in with your hand, there's a plastic fitting that will pop into the bottom of the spring in the bottom of the stanchion. If it doesn't want to pop make sure the black plastic thing is level. After top cap is back on place ball bearing in one of the many depressions in the top cap, gently place knob on top with the hole lined up over the ball bearing. Might take a couple of tries, don't lose the ball bearing which sometimes like to hop out when placing the knob back on. Pretty easy.

  44. #44
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    Nice. Thanks a lot.

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