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  1. #1
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    New question here. 2013 Fox CTD fork set up?

    2 rides with my new 2013 Fox 34 Float 29 140 Fit CTD and I'm not that thrilled.

    The "Trail" setting seems to lose the small bump sensitivity I'm used to with my old Talas 32 (I have a couple of them).

    The "Decent" setting with the medium range seem okay for the portion of the ride I was using it.

    With "Climb", "Trail" & "Descent" mode, and a "soft", unlabeled/middle & "firm" settings, has anyone seen a matrix or list of what is actually happening?

    Does the "Trail Adjust" do anything in the Descent & Climb mode?

    The shiny 77 page manual (11 in English) that came with the fork & shock don't cover CTD at all. The LBS can't help as this is the first one he has sold (the fork came with a complete bike).

    Checking the Fox site doesn't show any sort of tuning guide for the CTD forks. (There is some marketing stuff that covers Fit, Kashima & 15QR.)

    There is a little CTD marketing info here:
    CTD Explained | New for 2013 | Bike | FOX

    What settings are people running?

    Help please.

  2. #2
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    If anyone is curious how these things work, here is PB's take on it:
    2013 FOX Suspension CTD Damper - First Ride - Pinkbike

  3. #3
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    I've only 30 miles on mine so far (got it Sat on board my new Yeti) and I sure don't hate it.

    From what I've read, and playing with on the trail backs this up

    - "trail adjust" has no effect in Climb or Descend mode, they are fixed-settings

    To set mine up I applied what I thought was a little common sense and did the following..

    - Set it to Descend mode, set rebound all the way out/off/fast
    - Set static sag
    - Set trail-tune in middle
    - Set to Trail mode (as I was going to be riding a bunch of ups n downs n rocks n stuff)

    I proceeded to go for a 16 mile ride (at Moosic Mtn Conservancy near Scranton PA, if anyone cares to know).

    There was one notable drop that I hit all afternoon, just shy over 2' to a flat rock landing.

    By the end of the day I'd used all but about 1/4" of travel on the fork, so I dropped JUST A FEW psi out.

    disclaimer: I haven't seen a tear-down or such by someone tearing into the damper to see what's what. This is all by feel.

    Probably tainted quite a bit by New Bike Honeymoon Phase.

  4. #4
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    One of the members on NSMB pointed out that there is a 2013 manual available on the Fox site here:
    WebHelp

    But there isn't any more info on the CTD than in the marketing info on the other page.

  5. #5
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    Time for me to eat some crow, the set up info is on their site, just burried 3 folders deep in their Java based help site I linked above.

    34 FLOAT 29

    Now at least I have a set up guide to use & explains what is going on in each mode.

    More than 48 hours and no reply from their CS.

  6. #6
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    Never did receive a response from them, disappointing.

    The moral of the story is RTFM (if you can find one...)

    The starting set up detailed in the owners manual linked above is very close to what I like. I didn't have enough air in the spring & to much rebound (I'd set is 1/2 way in, the set up guide has 1/3rd.)

  7. #7
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    The fox manual surprises - my psi is definitely close - I need to compare rebound setting just to see where it has landed if for no other reason.

    Fork works great though! Faintly wish I has the '13 CTD rear damper to match.


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  8. #8
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    You're right though, this setup stuff should come with. Or at least quicker to access, that site reminds me of OS9. The booklets they've been sending called "owner's manual", kind of generic nothingness and a waste of paper

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    I would think a 2' foot drop to flat, you shouldn't be using more than half your travel or so.

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    Depends on how well or badly you land. ;^)

    There were other moderate/high speed chunk in the ride that probably accounted for more of the travel use.

    I definitely used it up more aggressively without any real air time at all just this past weekend at Bald Eagle forest ... longer & faster downhill runs with significant rock fields and log overs.


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  11. #11
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    6 days for Fox to reply with a canned response for me to check the sag.

  12. #12
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    sad. not super surprising for e-mail support, but sad.

    i really wish companies would state up front how long it'd take to get a response back.

    having a 'bot auto-reply with "we got it, but it could take 3-6 business days for someone to look at your mail" isn't really THAT difficult, is it?

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by CraigH View Post
    6 days for Fox to reply with a canned response for me to check the sag.
    Overall, still unimpressed with the CTD stuff?

    I have a 2012 Talas 34 FIT RLC and debating if I should ditch it completely for a new 2013 CTD Float 34 or just do the Float cartridge replacement at the end of the season on the Talas.

    The reviews I've been reading haven't been great (Bikeradar.com) and others completely the opposite of how stellar and finally getting full and plusher travel from the CTD (according to the guys @ Transition).
    konahonzo

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by CraigH View Post
    I liked how the fork worked yesterday, I rode both the bike & the fork hard, the same way I ride my VP-Free other than I was keeping the drops to around 2 feet until I get more time on the bike.

    That was only one ride though.

    Maybe the fork is sensitive to air pressure, rebound or it is just breaking in? The changes from Rides #1&2 to #3 was 10 psi and 6 clicks of rebound. I'm now running the suggest Fox set up.

    If people are still interested in how it goes with CTD, I can keep this thread updated.


    Please do.
    konahonzo

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    Overall, still unimpressed with the CTD stuff?
    I liked how the fork worked yesterday, I rode both the bike & the fork hard, the same way I ride my VP-Free other than I was keeping the drops to around 2 feet until I get more time on the bike.

    That was only one ride though.

    Maybe the fork is sensitive to air pressure, rebound or it is just breaking in? The changes from Rides #1&2 to #3 was 10 psi and 6 clicks of rebound. I'm now running the suggested Fox set up.

    If people are still interested in how it goes with CTD, I can keep this thread updated.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by bear View Post
    sad. not super surprising for e-mail support, but sad.
    Santa Cruz usually responds in hours.

    WTB took a day.

    The Fox response didn't even link the owners manual/set up guide for the fork.

    I have no idea why they don't link the owners manual/set up guide from the sales tech info page for specific fork. It would also be nice if they included it with the fork instead of the 77 page shiny brochure with no info in it.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by CraigH View Post
    I have no idea why they don't link the owners manual/set up guide from the sales tech info page for specific fork. It would also be nice if they included it with the fork instead of the 77 page shiny brochure with no info in it.
    I also wish there was PDF form of the detailed manual, so I could put it in the PDF reader on my "overly complex and expensive computing device that also can make phone calls".

    Hmm. Maybe a project in there for me to waste time on.

    How it's going with my CTD fork on my Yeti SB95 you ask?

    I have over 100 miles of trail riding on it so far, half of that in on Sat/Sun on some truly excellent NE PA singletrack with some double-track connectors. Lots of climbing (over 6k feet total in the two days) with commensurate descending.

    Riding conditions varied from forest road to not-quite-buff singletrack to nowhere near buff singletrack to good traditional PA rock gardens going up, across, and down. I'd try to describe them but Team Dicky has done it so well when talking about his rides on the 2012 Trans-Sylvania Epic ( see comments on Rothrock in part 1 and RB Winter in part 2 ).

    My CTD fork has been, to me, superb(-). I don't have a bunch of late model Fox-based experience though so I can't compare it to previous generation. My fork came on my bike and appears to have the full poo-poo-platter (it's a 2013 CTD Float 29 with Kashima).

    The Minus comes from not quite getting full travel - the disclaimer being a) I have come within 5 mm or so and thus don't think there's an issue so much as I haven't hit it hard enough, and b) I am still playing with PSI to see where I want it. The "cockpit" setup on my bike is still undergoing tuning and that affects weighting of the fork in various conditions and thus fork setup.

    Climb mode definitely most-stiff and very suitable for extended gravel-grinding climbs, and while leaving it in Trail mode also works well enough in those conditions it is perceptibly stiffer in Climb mode than Trail-3 (1==lightest, 3==stiffest Trail mode). Coupled with the RP23 in "stiff" mode and it makes my bike climb roads very adroitly. Not QUITE as solid as the Reba XX locked-out on my hard-tail, and visibly more mobile - especially when standing-hammering - but feels good. Doesn't feel like it's holding me back.

    Trail mode is definitely suitable for overall use, as designed. I tend to use either setting 1 or 2, mostly 1, as even this does seem to cause the fork to sit a bit higher in the travel overall (vs Descend mode) while still be very active on the bumpy trail I ride. Setting 3 is NOT "like" Climb mode, but definitely in the direction of Climb mode.

    Descend mode feels very different to me than Trail mode 1. Much more fork dive on rear-only braking, very very active. I swear that in this mode the fork behavior really makes me think of my other FS bike ( Titus Super-Moto setup for DH/FR with 2010 Boxxer ) .... I bombed some of the chunky stuff in Bald Eagle forest (what Dickey talks about in the "RBWinter" stage) at velocity bordering on inappropriate (in my judgement) for someone not wearing body armor. The front end of my bike never felt like it was throwing me around, it was tracking where I asked it to go, and was riding high enough that when I hit a couple surprise log-overs they were adroitly handled.

    My previous trail bike is a Niner MCR-9, with 100mm stroke Reba XX on the front that I have tuned (oil and grease and maintenance) into what feels good for me. The Reba is good, but is significant steps behind the Fox. This I expect from a couple model year gap. The Niner is also way behind the Yeti in ride feel, the Yeti is much more "all my thing" - I'm happier on FS - just very picky on *which* suspension type.

    Also, I currently have the fork at the stock 120mm stroke and am thinking about pulling it apart tonight and removing the limiter to take it out to 140. That is probably going to happen, so long as I have enough appropriate fork oil to put it back together. That will further slacken the head on my Yeti by almost one degree. Gotta remember to put body army in the bike bag.

  18. #18
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    I want to see reviews from the 140mm version

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by lavoiespeed3 View Post
    I want to see reviews from the 140mm version
    Mine's the 120/140 version, going 140 tonight, but won't get to ride it again until Wed.

    What are you wondering about specifically on the 140?

  20. #20
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    because at 120mm you don't really test the full" Descend mode '' I think at 140mm you will be able to make a better '' All Mountain Fork Review ''

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by lavoiespeed3 View Post
    because at 120mm you don't really test the full" Descend mode '' I think at 140mm you will be able to make a better '' All Mountain Fork Review ''
    Curious - why not?

    FWIW, my fork is now in 140mm setting. Probably won't have significant downhill until the weekend (or Friday) but it'll see first action Wed evening. ;^)

    It's going to be interesting seeing how the ride changes on the bike with ~1d slacker HTA/STA and so forth.

    FWIW, the fork has the new SKF dust wipers. The foam rings were wet, but got more fluid. The lowers were well lubed and running perfectly clean so far (dang right - it better have been).

    Now, to almost completely re-start tuning the suspension balance on the new bike. ;^)
    Last edited by bear; 06-13-2012 at 03:27 AM.

  22. #22
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    I just ordered my Fox 34 talas 110/140 for my new build. Rip9 I'll keep those who are interested informed on what I think/feel.

  23. #23
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    So the CTD forks are capable of being adjusted from 120mm to 140mm? The good news keeps piling on.

  24. #24
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    I'm not sure as mine is already 140mm. Just measured and I have a 154mm from top of dust seal to bottom of crown on the stanchion.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by CraigH View Post
    6 days for Fox to reply with a canned response for me to check the sag.
    Maybe Arthur can help you out???

  26. #26
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    Craig, I don't have a pic from before I pulled the spacer, but I remember measuring it when I got the bike and it was in high 120's mm wise.


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  27. #27
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    5th ride - Bob city on the Climb mode. Unhappy.

    Moved from a 29er fit 120 to a 29er fit 120 CTD with the "medium" designation. The 2011 pretty much locks out when off. The CTD in climb is bobbing a good 2 to 3 inches - unless I kick up the pressure in the 110#s - Setting the correct sag has me in the 85-90# range.

    Anyone using the "firm" tuned fork and not having the massive bob?

    Fox says:
    NOTE: The fork may cycle a couple of times after you engage Climb mode. Once complete Climb mode is achieved, the fork may continue to move 3 - 5 mm. This is normal, and does not affect performance.

    .

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by bjunsveltie View Post
    5th ride - Bob city on the Climb mode. Unhappy.

    Moved from a 29er fit 120 to a 29er fit 120 CTD with the "medium" designation. The 2011 pretty much locks out when off. The CTD in climb is bobbing a good 2 to 3 inches - unless I kick up the pressure in the 110#s - Setting the correct sag has me in the 85-90# range.
    The manual has 2 recommended pressures depending if you want XC or AM fork action.

    I haven't looked at how much the fork is moving when climbing but I can feel the difference between the Trail/medium & Climb mode.

    (This is on the 140 29er fork.)

  29. #29
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    I have the 100mm .. am I able to make it 120mm?
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  30. #30
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    Not sure how you change from decend to trail on the fly. At least with the old RP23 it was either on or off.

  31. #31
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    Fork has a top crown lever with three positions for Climb, Trail, & Descend which may be flipped to any position at any time.

    If the fork has Trail Adjust that is a secondary ring.


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  32. #32
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    Well don't know where to start with all of this, So here it's goes! First I want to say this is just my opinion. I've been riding Mountain Bikes since '97 and I've seen and done all the changes that come with the times. I remember having a 63mm Manitou spring loaded front fork on my Trek 8000 and thought I was the ****. And never complained once about small bump compliance or not traveling enough or not locked out. Sure I understand we have all of these options today. And we pay dearly for them.

    Now I might be alittle bias on the subject because every since I've bolted on my first fox fork I thought it was the cats meow. Now what has got me a little pissed off in this thread is people criticizing the CTD.Sure it's new, sure it's change, but what get me is people want to point and pull the trigger @ something just because it don't have what there used to. My guess is the people that are b****in about it would be the biggest beneficiaries of the CTD because they don't have a clue on what does what when it comes to setting up the old RLC anyways.
    Last edited by JammerNinerBoxx; 07-15-2012 at 07:29 AM.

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by JammerNinerBoxx View Post
    Well don't know where to start with all of this, So here it's goes! First I want to say this is just my opinion. I've been riding Mountain Bikes since '97 and I've seen and done all the changes that come with the times. I remember having a 63mm Manitou spring loaded front fork on my Trek 8000 and thought I was the ****. And never complained once about small bump compliance or not traveling enough or not locked out. Sure I understand we have all of these options today. And we pay dearly for them.

    Now I might be alittle bias on the subject because every since I've bolted on my first fox fork I thought it was the cats meow. Now what has got me a little pissed off in this thread is people criticizing the CTD.Sure it's new, sure it's change, but what get me is people want to point and pull the trigger @ something just because it don't have what there used to. My guess is the people that are b****in about it would be the biggest beneficiaries of the CTD because they don't have a clue on what does what when it comes to setting up the old RLC anyways.
    What gets me, is the folks stating that the CTD is oversimplified when compared to the RLC like it is a bad thing. The CTD has a wide range of compression adjustments that are more quickly/easily accessible than the RLC setup. The knobs are also improved, with three solid clicks for the CTD knob(and the trail adj knob), which makes it easy to adjust while rolling - because of this, I have been finding that I use the adjustments much more and am quickly able to get the fork set for particular sections of trail. One drawback for some people, will be the lack of a firm lockout, which is not adjustable with lockout force knob like on the previous RLC forks. For me, that is not an issue because I don't like a super firm lockout as it's not really usable on the trail.

    Currently owning a couple RLC's and also having a CTD float for a few weeks, it's becoming clear that I prefer the CTD setup - and I'm someone that knows how to dial in a fork the way I like and also do all my fork maintenance.

  34. #34
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    I know it has the levers but I am guessing you will have a hard time picking trail while moving along on the trail. Seems like the old Talas which had 3 positions which they got ride of for 2 since the middle one was next to impossible to use while moving.

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    On relatively quiet trail I don't have an issue flipping D to T or back, but agreed that it's not something done while picking a line.

    Good bit is that it's not *that* bad if you're slow-picking a line in D mode...just a bit squorshier up front in that case, but not fatal.

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    I am guessing when I get the new bike I will be running it in D mode all of the time. I am not worried about climbing.

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Beater View Post
    Not sure how you change from decend to trail on the fly. At least with the old RP23 it was either on or off.
    I mostly leave it in the trail mode, if I see a serious decent coming up I can reach forward and down to flip id to decent mode. At the bottom I can flip it back to trail, I have only used the climb mode on gravel roads.

    In the media intro articles they showed a remote that you can put on your bar, I don't have one but it isn't a bad idea. Not sure what they cost though.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by JammerNinerBoxx View Post
    I've been riding Mountain Bikes since '97 and I've seen and done all the changes that come with the times.
    You bragging?

    I'll see your '97 and raise you an '83.

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by CraigH View Post
    I'll see your '97 and raise you an '83.
    If you're gonna do that, you gotta ask when you started regularly riding ANY bicycle mostly on dirt?

    On topic, kind of, holy cow but the Fox 34 Float 29 CTD is just craaaaaazy better than my old Rock Shox RS-1.

  40. #40
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    So I'm trying to figure out if I should upgrade to 2012 or 2013.

    I have currently a 2011 32 float 100 mm 9 mm qr open bath on my Lynskey hardtail.
    I got this great deal on xtr 15 mm thruaxle wheelset so now I'm looking to upgrade to 15mm thruaxle qr and I'm debating whether to buy the 2012 32 FLOAT 100 RLC FIT Fork for 640 off of huck and roll or wait until the 2013 with the CTD stuff. Is CTD worth the extra 200 bucks or so?
    "Chancho. When you are a man sometimes you wear stretchy pants... Its for fun..."

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    CTD stuff is out already, no waiting. And I would go with the 2012 FIT RLC anyway.
    konahonzo

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by bear View Post
    If you're gonna do that, you gotta ask when you started regularly riding ANY bicycle mostly on dirt?
    Maybe 1970?

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    Quote Originally Posted by CraigH View Post
    Maybe 1970?
    Me too.

  44. #44
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    I just set up the fork using the apple app from fox. The app recommended ten psi less than what is recommended for my weight. The app is designed to determine psi and rebound rate bay analyzing the amount of sag when sitting on the bike. My question is what about the low speed compression knob? How does one determine how to set up low speed compression?

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    Hello fellow Fox CTD owners. I just purchased a 2013 Transition Covert 26 with Fox's new 34x160mm CTD fork and matching CTD shock. In addition to wheels-on-the-ground trail and DH riding, I expect to be hitting a number of flowy jump lines on this bike. I am confused by the new CTD settings. On my other Fox suspension, for jump lines I would set my compression fully stiff to be able to pop off the jump lips with minimal travel absorbed by the suspension. With CTD, I would naturally assume that setting it the in Climb mode would provide for this stiff setup, but I have been told by my LBS that doing so may cause damage to the internal seals when I come down on the backside. Argghh! What to do? Ideally, I would have it stiff for the jump, and then flip a lever in mid-flight to soften it up for the landing - a janx fix at best. Anyone jumping with these CTD's that can provide some light on the subject?

  46. #46
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    Putting your fork in 'T' mode is the like cranking up the LSC.

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    Hello

    i just got my remedy 8 a few days ago..with drcv float 150mm. What puzzled me is..i cant get the setup right..i set the sag right for my weight but the travel drops to 140..then rode the bike..i put more air to get the 150 travel..then i cant get the sag right...pls help...
    Last edited by azizi; 03-12-2013 at 09:44 AM.

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    Did any of you guys ever come up with settings that made you happy? I'm 225 lbs with gear and just can't get this fork to feel right on my Tallboy LTc.

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    Just sent mine back because it seemed like the rebound adjust knob did nothing. Did 4 rides and it never felt good. Climbing was great, but the descents were unpredictable and had 2 bad lowside washouts. I have the same fork in the RLC (34 Talas 29er 140-110). The old model for me (so far) is waaay better. I hope they send back a fork that "works". In other words, I hope they don't send it back and say it is fine and that is how it is supposed to be. If so I have a fork for sale.

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    ^ Maybe request an RLC damper instead of the CTD if they are fixin' under warranty.
    konahonzo

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